IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  MS80 

(716)  S72-4S03 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICIVIH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microraproductions  Institut  Canadian  da  microraproductions  historiquas 


1980 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notas  techniques  et  bibiiographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
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the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


D 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I — I    Covers  damaged/ 


D 


D 


D 


• 


D 


□ 


Couverture  endommagie 


Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaur6e  et/ou  pelliculAe 


Cover  title  missing/ 


I I   Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 

□    Coloured  maps/ 
Cartes  giographiques  en  couleur 


Coloured  ink  (I.e.  other  than  blue  or  black}/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


□    Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
Reli6  avec  d'autres  documents 


Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  reliure  serrde  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intArieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
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mais,  lorsque  cela  Atait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6t6  fiim^es. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  supplAmentaires: 


T 
t< 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  At6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sent  peut-Atre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  mithode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiquAs  ci-dessous. 


I      I   Coloured  pages/ 


Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagies 


D 


Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restauries  et/ou  peilicuiies 


^. 


T 

P 
o 

fl 


C 

b 

tl 

8 
O 

fi 

Si 

o 


.   Pages  dis>  oloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
^    Pages  d6ci  lories,  tacheties  ou  piqu6es 


□Pages  detached/ 
Pages  d6tach6es 

□    Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

□    Quality  of  print  varies/ 
Quality  inigaie  de  i'impression 

I      I   Includes  supplementary  material/ 


Comprend  du  materiel  supplimentaire 


T 

8 

T 

d 

e 
b 
ri 
ri 
a 


n 


Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  MItion  disponible 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensur  \  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partlellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6t6  fiimies  h  nouveau  de  fa^on  A 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


Ef 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  film*  au  taux  de  reduction  IndiquA  ci-dessous. 

10X  14X  18X  22X 


26X 


30X 


71 


12X 


16X 


aox 


24X 


28X 


32X 


lils 

du 

difier 

jne 

lage 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

National  Library  of  Canada 


The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
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L'exemplaire  fiimi  fut  reproduit  grdce  d  la 
g6n6rosit4  de: 

Bibliothdque  nationale  du  Canada 


Les  images  suivantes  ont  6t6  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  netteti  de  I'exempiaire  film6,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimis  sont  fiimis  en  commengant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
derniire  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  salon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  film6s  en  commenpant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  derniAre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  -^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED ").  or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
derniire  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbols  --►  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
filmte  d  des  taux  de  rMuction  diffirents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  cliche,  il  est  filmi  d  partir 
de  I'angle  sup6rieur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas.  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  nicessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mithode. 


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32X 


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"^i^KKBK^^mK'^JZ 


AUDUBON 


AND 


HIS    JOURNALS 


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AUDUBON 

November,  1843 

Krom  the  portrait  by  John  Woodhouse  Audubon 


■'WJf 


y/f^ 


AUDUBON   AND    HIS 
JOURNALS 


BY 


MARIA   R.  AUDUBON 


WITH    ZOOLOGICAL    AND   OTHER   NOTES 


BY 


ELLIOTT   COUES 


Volume  L 


NEW    YORK 

CHARLES    SCRIBNER'S    SONS 

1897 


!  I'M 


\  i 


Ol.   31 


V.I 


nvos 


Copyright,  1897, 
By  Charles  ticRiBNER's  Sons. 


tHnitoRBitB  T&ttax 
John  Wilson  and  Son   Cambridge,  U.S.A« 


m 


3fn  Lotoitiff  ifRemor? 

OF   MY   FATHER, 

JOHN   WOODHOUSE   AUDUBON, 

AND   OF 

HIS    LOVE    AND    ADMIRATION    FOR    HIS    FATHER, 

JOHN   JAMES   AUDUBON, 

THIS   BOOK   WAS  WRITTEN. 


^ 


PREFACE 


i 


'. 


TT  is  customary  at  the  close  of  a  Preface  to  make  some 
■*•  acknowledgment  of  the  services  rendered  by  others 
in  the  preparation  of  a  volume ;  but  in  my  case  this  aid 
has  been  so  generous,  so  abundant,  and  so  helpful,  that 
I  must  reverse  the  order  of  things  and  begin  by  saying 
that  my  heartiest  thanks  are  due  to  the  many  who  have 
assisted  me  in  a  work  which  for  many  years  has  been 
my  dream. 

Without  the  very  material  aid,  both  by  pen  and  advice, 
of  Dr.  Elliott  Coues,  these  pages  would  have  lost  more  than 
I  care  to  contemplate.  All  the  zoological  notes  are  his, 
and  many  of  the  geographical,  besides  suggestions  too 
numerous  to  mention ;  moreover,  all  this  assistance  was 
most  liberally  given  at  a  time  when  he  personally  was 
more  than  busy ;  and  yet  my  wishes  and  convenience  have 
always  been  consulted. 

Next  to  the  memory  of  my  father,  Mr.  Ruthven  Deane 
has  been  the  motive  power  which  has  caused  this  volume 
to  be  written.  For  many  years  he  has  urged  me  to  at- 
tempt it,  and  has  supplied  me  with  some  valuable  mate- 
rial, especially  regarding  Henderson.  During  the  months 
that  I  have  been  working  on  much  that  I  have  felt  incom- 
petent to  deal  with,  his  encouragement  has  helped  me 
over  many  a  difficulty. 


via 


PREFACE 


} 


To  my  sisters  Harriet  and  Florence,  and  my  cousin  M. 
Eliza  Audubon,  I  am  especially  indebted.  The  first  and 
last  have  lent  me  of  their  choicest  treasures ;  letters,  jour- 
nals, and  other  manuscripts  they  have  placed  uncondition- 
ally in  my  hands,  besides  supplying  many  details  from 
other  sources ;  and  my  sister  Florence  has  been  my  almost 
hourly  assistant  in  more  ways  than  I  can  specify. 

The  arrangement  of  the  papers  and  journals  was  sug- 
gested by  the  late  Dr.  G.  Brown  Goode ;  and  many  names 
come  to  mind  of  friends  who  have  helped  me  in  other 
ways.  Among  them  are  those  of  Mr.  W.  H.  Wetherill, 
Messrs.  Richard  R.  and  William  Rathbone,  my  aunt,  Mrs. 
James  Hall,  Dr.  Arthur  T.  Lincoln,  Mr.  Morris  F.  Tyler, 
Mr.  Joseph  Coolidge,  Rev.  A.  Gordon  Bakewell,  and  Mr. 
George  Bird  Grinnell. 

I  wish  also  to  say  that  without  the  loving  generosity  of 
my  friend  the  late  Miss  M.  Louise  Comstock,  I  should 
never  have  had  the  time  at  my  command  which  I  have 
needed  for  this  work ;  and  last,  but  by  no  means  least,  I 
thank  my  mother  for  her  many  memories,  and  for  her  wise 
criticisms. 

There  came  into  my  hands  about  twelve  years  ago  some 
of  these  journals,  —  those  of  the  Missouri  and  Labrador 
journeys;  and  since  then  others  have  been  added,  all  of 
which  had  been  virtually  lost  for  years.  The  story  of  how  I 
heard  of  some,  and  t.aced  others,  is  too  long  to  tell  here, 
so  1  will  only  say  that  these  journals  have  formed  my 
chief  sources  of  information.  So  far  as  has  been  possible 
I  have  verified  and  suppL'mented  them  by  every  means. 
Researches  have  been  made  in  San  Domingo,  New  Orleans, 
and  France ;  letters  and  journals  have  been  consulted  which 


PREFACE 


IX 


prove  this  or  that  statement ;  and  from  the  mass  of  papers 
I  have  accumulated,  I  have  used  perhaps  one  fifth. 

"  The  Life  of  Audubon  the  Naturalist,  edited  by  Mr. 
Robert  Buchanan  from  material  supplied  by  his  widow," 
covers,  or  is  supposed  to  cover,  the  same  ground  I  have 
gone  over.  That  the  same  journals  were  used  is  obvious ; 
and  besides  these,  others,  destroyed  by  fire  in  Shelbyville, 
Ky.,  were  at  my  grandmother's  command,  and  more  than 
all,  her  own  recollections  and  voluminous  diaries.  Her 
manuscript,  which  I  never  saw,  was  sent  to  the  English 
publishers,  and  was  not  returned  to  the  author  by  them  or 
by  Mr.  Buchanan.  How  much  of  it  was  valuable,  it  is 
impossible  to  say;  but  the  fact  remains  that  Mr.  Bu- 
chanan's book  is  so  mixed  up,  so  interspersed  with  anec- 
dotes and  episodes,  and  so  interlarded  with  derogatory 
remarks  of  his  own,  as  to  be  practically  useless  to  the 
world,  and  very  unpleasant  to  the  Audubon  family.  More- 
over, with  few  exceptions  everything  about  birds  has  been 
left  out.  Many  errors  in  dates  and  names  are  apparent, 
especially  the  date  of  the  Missouri  River  journey,  which  is 
ten  years  later  than  he  states.  However,  if  Mr.  Buchanan 
had  done  his  work  better,  there  would  have  been  no  need 
for  mine ;  so  I  forgive  him,  even  though  he  dwells  at  un- 
necessary length  on  Audubon's  vanity  and  selfishness,  of 
which  I  find  no  traces. 

In  these  journals,  nine  in  all,  and  in  the  hundred  or  so 
of  letters,  written  under  many  skies,  and  in  many  condi- 
tions of  life,  by  a  man  whose  education  was  wholly  French, 
one  of  the  journals  dating  as  far  back  as  1822,  and  some  of 
the  letters  even  earlier,  —  there  is  not  one  sentence,  one 
expression,  that  is  other  than  that  of  a  refined  and  cul- 


f 


X  PREFACE 

tured  gentleman.  More  than  that,  there  is  not  one  utter- 
ance of  "  anger,  hatred  or  malice."  Mr.  George  Ord  and 
Mr.  Charles  Waterton  were  both  my  grandfather's  bitter 
enemies,  yet  one  he  rarely  mentions,  and  of  the  latter,  when 
he  says,  "  I  had  a  scrubby  letter  from  Waterton,"  he  has 
said  his  worst. 

But  the  journals  will  speak  for  themselves  better  than  I 
can,  and  so  I  send  them  forth,  believing  that  to  many  they 
will  be  of  absorbing  interest,  as  they  have  been  to  me. 

M.  R.  A. 


Ill 


i.ntroduct 
Audubon 
The  Europ 
The  Lahka 
The  Missoi 


CONTENTS 
Volume  I 

PAGE 

Introduction 3 

Audubon 5 

The  European  Journals.    1826-1829 79 

The  Labrador  Journal,     1833 343 

The  Missouri  River  Journals.    1843 447 


'f 


AUDUBOI 

Fi 

Mill  Gr 

Ft 

Fatland 

Fr 

Audubon 

No 

John  J.  A 

Fro 

Mrs.  Aud 

Froi 

Audubon 

Date 

Audubon  : 
York  . 

Flycatche 

From 


From  a  Pe 

Drawi 


LIST   OF   ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Vol.  I. 

PAGE 

Audubon Frontispiece 

From  the  portrait  by  J.  W.  Audubon.     November,  1843. 

Mill  Grove  Mansion  on  the  Peukiomen  Creek    ...       16 

From  a  photograph  from  W.  H.  Wetherill,  Esq. 

Fatland  Ford  Mansion,  looking  toward  Valley  Forge      20 

From  a  photograph  from  W.  H.  Wetherill,  Esq. 

Audubon's  Mill  at  Henderson,  Ky 34 

Now  owned  by  Mr.  David  Clark. 

John  J.  Audubon 48 

From  the  miniature  by  F.  Cruikshank,  published  by  Rob-rt  Havell, 
January  la,  1835. 

Mrs.  Audubon 64 

From  the  miniature  by  F.  Cruikshank,  1835. 

Audubon 74 

Date  unknown.     From  a  daguerreotype  owned  by  M.  F.liza  Audubon. 

Audubon  Monument  in  Trinity  Church  Cemetery,  New 
York 76 

Flycatchers.    (^Heretofore  unpublished^ 114 

From  a  drawing  made  by  Audubon  in  1826,  and  presented  to  Mrs. 
Rathbone  of  Green  Bank,  Liverpool.  Still  in  the  possession 
of  the  Rathbone  family.  ./' 

From  a  Pencil  Sketch  of  Audubon 128 

Drawn  by  himself  for  Mrs.  Rathbone.  Now  in  the  possession  of 
Mr.  Richard  R.  Rathbone,  Glao-y-Menai,  Anglesey. 


■i  ,  i(- 


* 


ii-l 


xiv  ILLUSTRATIONS. 

PAGB 

Audubon  in  Indian  Dress 132 

From  a  i  icil  sketch  drawn  by  lihnself  for  Miss  Rathbone,  1826. 
Now  ill  llie  pussessiou  uf  Mrs.  Abraham  Dixon  {,nie  Rathbone), 
London,  England. 

Audubon 206 

From  tlie  portrait  by  Henry  luman.     Now  in  the  possession  of  the  family. 

Facsimile  of  Entry  in  Journal 221 

Eagle  and  Lamb 342 

Painted  by  Audubon,  London,  i8a8.    In  the  possession  of  the  family. 

Audubon 348 

From  the  iwrtrait  by  George   P.  A.  Healy,  London.  1838.     Now  in 
the  possession  of  the  Boston  Society  of  Natural  History. 

Victor  Gifford  Audubon 384 

From  the  miniature  by  F.  Cruikshank,  1838. 

John  Woodhouse  Audubon 412 

From  the  miniature  by  F.  Cruikshank,  1838. 

Audubon 454 

From  the  portrait  by  John  Woodhouse  Audubon  (about  1841). 

COLUMBA     PASSERINA     (NOW      CoLUMBIGALLINA       PASSERINA 

TEKRESTRIS),    GROUND    DOVE 474 

From  the  Linpublished  drawing  by  J.  J.  Audubon,  1838. 

Facsimile  of  a  Page  of  the  Missouri  River  Journal  .    510 

Reduced  one  third. 

View  on  the  Missouri  River,  above  Great  Bend      .    .    516 

From  a  water-color  drawing  by  Isaac  Sprague. 

Indian  Hatchet  Pipe 532 

Carried  by  Audubon  during  many  of  his  journeys. 


AUDUBON 


VOL.  1.  —  1 


ill 


TN  tl 

^    II 

that  h; 

am  no 

merits 

as   nati 

since  b( 

enemies 

1  hav 

my  read 

that  the 

thought 


INTRODUCTION 


TN  the  brief  biography  of  Audubon  which  follows, 
I  have  given,  I  believe,  the  only  correct  account 
that  has  been  written,  and  as  such  I  present  it.  I 
am  not  competent  to  give  an  opinion  as  to  the 
merits  of  his  work,  nor  is  it  necessary.  His  place 
as  naturalist,  woodsman,  artist,  author,  has  long 
since  been  accorded  him,  anvd  he  himself  says:  '*  My 
enemies  have  been  few,  and  my  friends  numerous." 
I  have  tried  only  to  put  Audubon  the  man  before 
my  readers,  and  in  his  own  words  so  far  as  possible, 
that  they  may  know  what  he  was,  not  what  others 
thought  he  was. 

M.  R.  A. 


Ill 


THE 
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on  the  p 
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Audubor 
in  the  g( 
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of  the  la 
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named  th 
Since  the 
other  owr 
there  are 
landmark' 
Audub( 
words  in  ' 
but  of  his 
year,  have 
children,  ' 
Audubon 
however,  i 
one  of  th< 

1  "My  nan 
never  sign  ex( 
my  father's  d( 
bone,   1827.) 
Laforest. 


AUDUBON 


THE  village  of  Mandcville  in  the  parish  of  St.  Tam- 
many, Louisiana,  is  about  twenty  miles  from  New 
Orleans  on  the  north  shore  of  Lake  Ponchartrain.  Here, 
on  the  plantation  of  the  same  name,  owned  by  the  Mar- 
quis de  Mandeville  de  Marigny,  John  James  Laforest 
Audubon^  was  born,  the  Marquis  having  lent  his  home, 
in  the  generous  southern  fashion,  to  his  friend  Admiral 
Jean  Audubon,  who,  with  his  Spanish  Creole  wife,  lived 
here  some  months.  In  the  same  house,  towards  the  close 
of  the  last  century,  Louis  Philippe  found  refuge  for  a 
time  with  the  ever  hospitable  Marigny  family,  and  he 
named  the  beautiful  plantation  home  "  Fontainebleau." 
Since  then  changes  innumerable  have  come,  the  estate  has 
other  owners,  the  house  has  gone,  those  who  once  dwelt 
there  are  long  dead,  their  descendants  scattered,  the  old 
landmarks  obliterated. 

Audubon  has  given  a  sketch  of  his  father  in  his  own 
words  in  "  Myself,"  which  appears  in  the  pages  following; 
but  of  his  mother  little  indeed  is  known.  Only  within  the 
year,  have  papers  come  into  the  hands  of  her  great-grand- 
children, which  prove  her  surname  to  have  been  Rabin. 
Audubon  himself  tells  of  her  tragic  death,  which  was  not, 
however,  in  the  St.  Domingo  insurrection  of  1793,  but  in 
one  of  the  local  uprisings  of  the   slaves  which  were  of 

^  "  My  name  is  John  James  Laforest  Audubon.  The  name  Laforest  I 
never  sign  except  when  writing  to  my  wife,  and  she  is  the  only  being,  since 
my  father's  death,  who  calls  me  by  it."  (Letter  of  Audubon  to  Mrs.  Rath- 
bone,  1827.)  All  Mrs.  Audubon's  letters  to  her  husband  address  him  as 
Laforest. 


AUDUBON 


frequent  occurrence  in  that  beautiful  island,  whose  history 
is  too  dark  to  dwell  upon.  Beyond  this  nothing  can  be 
found  relating  to  the  mother,  whom  Audubon  lost  before 
he  was  old  enough  to  remember  her,  except  that  in  1822 
one  of  the  family  Marigny  told  my  father,  John  Woodhouse 
Audubon,  then  a  boy  of  ten,  who  with  his  parents  was  living 
in  New  Orleans,  that  she  was  "une  dame  d'une  beaut6 
incomparable  et  avec  beaucoup  de  fiert^."  It  may  seem 
strange  that  nothing  more  can  be  found  regarding  this 
lady,  but  it  is  to  be  remembered  these  were  troublous 
days,  when  stormy  changes  were  the  rule  ;  and  the  roving 
and  adventurous  sailor  did  not,  I  presume,  encumber 
himself  with  papers.  To  these  circumstances  also  it  is 
probably  due  that  the  date  of  Audubon's  birth  is  not 
known,  and  must  always  remain  an  open  question.  In 
his  journals  and  letters  various  allusions  are  made  to  his 
age,  and  many  passages  bearing  on  the  matter  are  found, 
but  with  one  exception  no  two  agree ;  he  may  have  been 
born  anywhere  between  1772  and  1783,  and  in  the  face  of 
this  uncertainty  the  date  usually  given.  May  5,  1780, 
may  be  accepted,  though  the  true  one  is  no  doubt 
earlier. 

The  attachment  between  Audubon  and  his  father  was  of 
the  strongest  description,  as  the  long  and  affectionate,  if 
somewhat  infrequent  letters,  still  in  the  possession  of  the 
family,  fully  demonstrate.  When  the  Admiral  was  retired 
from  active  service,  he  lived  at  La  Gerb^ti^re  in  France 
with  his  second  wife,  Anne  Moynette,  until  his  death,  on 
February  19,  1818,  at  the  great  age  of  ninety-five. 

In  this  home  near  the  Loire,  Audubon  spent  his  happy 
boyhood  and  youth,  dearly  beloved  and  loving,  and  receiv- 
ing the  best  education  time  and  place  afforded.  As  the 
boy  grew  older  and  more  advantages  were  desired  for 
him,  came  absences  when  he  was  at  school  in  La  Rochelle 
and  Paris ;  but  La  Gerb^ti^re  was  his  home  till  in  early 
manhood  he  returned  to  America,  the  land  he  loved  above 


AUDUBON 


all  others,  as  his  journals  show  repeatedly.  The  impress 
of  the  years  in  France  was  never  lost ;  he  always  had  a 
strong  French  accent,  he  possessed  in  a  marked  degree 
the  adaptability  to  circumstances  which  is  a  trait  of  that 
nation,  and  his  disposition  inherited  from  both  parents 
was  elated  or  depressed  by  a  trifle.  He  was  quick-tem- 
pered, enthusiastic,  and  romantic,  yet  affectionate,  forgiv- 
ing, and  with  unlimited  industry  and  perseverance ;  he  was 
generous  to  every  one  with  time,  money,  and  possessions ; 
nothing  was  too  good  for  others,  but  his  own  personal 
requirements  were  of  the  simplest  character.  His  life 
shows  all  this  and  more,  better  than  words  of  mine  can 
tell;  and  as  the  only  account  of  his  years  till  he  left 
Henderson,  Ky.,  in  1 8 19,  is  in  his  own  journal,  it  is  given 
here  in  full.^ 


Myself.2 

The  precise  period  of  my  birth  is  yet  an  enig'.tia  to  me,  and  I 
can  only  say  what  I  have  often  heard  my  father  repeat  to  me  on 
this  subject,  which  is  as  follows :  It  seems  that  my  father  had 
large  properties  in  Santo  Domingo,  and  was  in  the  habit  of  visit- 
ing frequently  that  portion  of  our  Southern  States  called,  and 
known  by  the  name  of,  Louisiana,  then  owned  by  the  French 
Government. 

During  one  of  these  excursions  he  married  a  lady  of  Spanish 
extraction,  whom  I  have  been  led  to  understand  was  as  beautiful 
as  she  was  wealthy,  and  otherwise  attractive,  and  who  bore  my 
father  three  sons  and  a  daughter,  —  I  being  the  youngest  of  the 
sons  and  the  only  one  v/no  survived  extreme  youth.  My  mother, 
soon  after  ray  birth,  ar  companied  my  father  to  the  estate  of  Aux 
Cayes,  on  the  island  cf  Santo  Dommgo,  and  she  was  one  of  the 
victims  during  the  ever-to-be-lamented  period  of  the  negro 
insurrection  of  that  island. 

*  This  manuscript  was  found  in  an  old  book  which  had  been  in  a  barn  on 
Statcn  Island  for  years. 

'  Reprinted  from  Scribner's  Magazine,  March,  1893,  p.  267.  A  few  errors 
in  names  and  dates  are  now  corrected. 


8 


AUDUBON 


m 


U 


My  father,  through  the  intervention  of  some  faithful  servants, 
escaped  from  Aux  Cayes  with  a  good  portion  of  his  plate  and 
money,  and  with  me  and  these  humble  friends  reached  New 
Orleans  in  safety.  From  this  place  he  took  me  to  France,  where, 
having  married  the  only  mother  I  have  ever  known,  he  left  me 
under  her  charge  and  returned  to  the  United  States  in  the  employ 
of  the  French  Government,  acting  as  an  officer  under  Admiral 
Rochambeau.  Shortly  afterward,  however,  he  landed  in  the 
United  States  and  became  attached  to  the  army  under  La  Fayette. 

The  first  of  my  recollective  powers  placed  me  in  the  central 
portion  of  the  city  of  Nantes,  on  the  Loire  River,  in  France, 
where  I  still  recollect  particularly  that  I  was  much  cherished  by 
my  dear  stepmother,  who  had  no  children  of  her  own,  and  that  I 
was  constantly  attended  by  one  or  two  black  servants,  who  had 
followed  my  father  from  Santo  Domingo  to  New  Orleans  and 
afterward  to  Nantes. 

One  incident  which  is  as  perfect  in  my  memory  as  if  it  had 
occurred  this  very  day,  I  have  thought  of  thousands  of  times 
since,  and  will  now  put  on  paper  as  one  of  the  curious  things 
which  perhaps  did  lead  me  in  after  times  to  love  birds,  and  to 
finally  study  them  with  pleasure  infinite.  My  mother  had  several 
beautiful  parrots  and  some  monkeys ;  one  of  the  latter  was  a  full- 
grown  male  of  a  very  large  species.  One  morning,  while  the  ser- 
vants were  engaged  in  arranging  the  room  I  was  in,  "  Pretty 
Polly  "  asking  for  her  breakfast  as  usual,  ^^  Du  pain  au  lait  pour  le 
perroquet  Mignonne"  the  man  of  the  woods  probably  thought  the 
bird  presuming  upon  his  rights  in  the  scale  of  nature ;  be  this  as 
it  may,  he  certainly  showed  his  supremacy  in  strength  over  the 
denizen  of  the  air,  for,  walking  deliberately  and  uprightly  toward 
the  poor  bird,  he  at  once  killed  it,  with  unnatural  composure. 
The  sensations  of  my  infant  heart  at  this  cruel  sight  were  agony  to 
me.  I  prayed  the  servant  to  beat  the  monkey,  but  he,  who  for 
some  reason  preferred  the  monkey  to  the  parrot,  refused.  I 
uttered  long  and  piercing  cries,  my  mother  rushed  into  the 
room,  I  was  tranquillized,  the  monkey  was  forever  afterward 
chained,  and  Mignonne  buried  with  all  the  pomp  of  a  cherished 
lost  one. 


AUDUBON 


This  made,  as  I  have  said,  a  very  deep  impression  on  my 
youthful  mind.  But  now,  my  dear  children,  I  must  tell  you  some- 
what of  my  father,  and  of  his  parentage. 

John  Audubon,  my  grandfather,  was  born  and  lived  at  the 
small  village  of  Sable  d'Olhonne,  and  was  by  trade  a  very  humble 
fisherman.  He  appears  to  have  made  up  for  the  want  of  wealth 
by  the  number  of  his  children,  twenty-one  of  whom  he  actually 
raised  to  man  and  womanhood.  All  were  sons,  with  one  excep- 
tion ;  my  aunt,  one  uncle,  and  my  father,  who  was  the  twentieth 
son,  being  the  only  members  of  that  extraordinary  numerous 
family  who  lived  to  old  age.  In  subsequent  years,  when  I  visited 
Sable  d'Olhonne,  the  old  residents  assured  me  that  they  had  seen 
the  whole  family,  including  both  parents,  at  church  many  times. 

When  my  father  had  reached  the  age  of  twelve  years,  his  father 
presented  him  with  a  shirt,  a  dress  of  coarse  material,  a  stick,  and 
his  blessing,  and  urged  him  to  go  and  seek  means  for  his  future 
support  and  sustenance. 

Some  kind  whaler  or  cod-fisherman  took  him  on  board  as  a 
"  Boy."  Of  his  life  during  his  early  voyages  it  would  be  useless 
to  trouble  you ;  let  it  suffice  for  me  to  say  that  they  were  of  the 
usual  most  uncomfortable  nature.  How  many  trips  he  made  I 
cannot  say,  but  he  told  me  that  by  the  time  he  was  seventeen  he 
had  become  an  able  seaman  before  the  mast ;  when  twenty-one 
he  commanded  a  fishing-smack,  and  went  to  the  great  Newfound- 
land Banks;  at  twenty-five  he  owned  several  small  crafts,  all 
fishermen,  and  at  twenty-eight  sailed  for  Santo  Domingo  with  his 
little  flotilla  heavily  loaded  with  the  produce  of  the  deep.  "  For- 
tune," said  he  to  me  one  day,  "  now  began  to  smile  upon  me.  I 
did  well  in  this  enterprise,  and  after  a  few  more  voyages  of  the 
same  sort  gave  up  the  sea,  and  purchased  a  small  estate  on  the 
Isle  i  Vaches ;  ^  the  prosperity  of  Santo  Domingo  was  at  its  zenith, 
and  in  the  course  of  ten  years  I  had  realized  something  very  con- 
siderable. The  then  Governor  gave  me  an  appointment  which 
called  me  to  France,  and  having  .ved  some  favors  there,  I 

became  once  more  a  seafaring  man,  the  government  having 
granted  me  the  command  of  a  small  vessel  of  war." ' 

*  Isle  4  Vache,  eight  miles  south  of  Aux  Cayes. 
8  This  vessel  was  the  "  Annelle." 


y\. 


10 


AUDUBON 


How  long  my  father  remained  in  the  service,  it  is  impos- 
sible for  me  to  say.  The  different  changes  occurring  at  the 
time  of  the  American  Revolution,  and  afterward  during  that  in 
France,  seem  to  have  sent  him  from  one  place  to  another  as  if 
a  foot-ball;  his  property  in  Santo  Domingo  augmenting,  how- 
ever, the  while,  and  indeed  till  the  liberation  of  the  black  slaves 
there. 

During  a  visit  he  paid  to  Pennsylvania  when  suffering  from  the 
effects  of  a  sunstroke,  he  purchased  the  beautiful  farm  of  Mill 
Grove,  on  the  Schuylkill  and  Perkiomen  streams.  At  this  place, 
and  a  few  days  only  before  the  memorable  battle  (j^V)  of  Valley 
Forge,  General  Washington  presented  him  with  his  portrait,  now 
in  my  possession  ;  and  highly  do  I  value  it  as  a  memento  of  that 
noble  man  and  the  glories  of  those  days.^  At  the  conclusion  of 
the  war  between  England  and  her  child  of  the  West,  my  father 
returned  to  France  and  continued  in  the  employ  of  the  naval  de- 
partment of  that  country,  being  at  one  time  sent  to  Plymouth, 
England,  in  a  seventy-five-gun  ship  to  exchange  prisoners.  This 
was,  I  think,  in  the  short  peace  that  took  place  between  Eng- 
land and  France  in  1801.  He  returned  to  Rochefort,  where 
he  lived  for  several  years,  still  in  the  employ  of  government. 
He  finally  sent  in  his  resignation  and  returned  to  Nantes  and  La 
Gerb^ti^re.  He  had  many  severe  trials  and  afflictions  before  his 
death,  having  lost  my  two  older  brothers  early  in  the  French 
Revolution ;  both  were  officers  in  the  army.  His  only  sister  was 
killed  by  the  Chouans  of  La  Vendue,"  and  the  only  brother  he 
had  was  not  on  good  terms  with  him.     This  brother  resided  at 

^  The  family  still  own  this  portrait,  of  which  Victor  G.  Audubon  writes : 
"  This  portrait  is  probably  the  first  one  taken  of  that  great  and  good  man, 
and  although  the  drawing  is  hard,  the  coloring  and  costume  are  correct,  I 
have  no  doubt.  It  was  copied  by  Greenhow,  the  sculptor,  when  he  was 
preparing  to  model  his  '  Washington '  for  the  Capitol,  and  he  considered 
it  as  a  valuable  addition  to  the  material  already  obtained.  This  por- 
trait was  painted  by  an  artist  named  Polk,  but  who  or  what  he  was,  I 
know  not." 

'  There  still  remain  those  who  recall  how  Audubon  would  walk  up  and 
down,  snapping  his  fingers,  a  habit  he  had  when  excited,  when  relating  how 
he  had  seen  his  aunt  tied  to  a  wagon  and  dragged  through  the  streets  of 
Nantes  in  the  time  of  Carrier. 


AUDUBON 


II 


Bayonne,  and,  I  believe,  had  a  large  family,  none  of  whom  I  have 
ever  seen  or  known. ^ 

In  personal  appearance  my  father  and  I  were  of  the  same 
height  and  stature,  say  about  five  feet  ten  inches,  erect,  and  with 
muscles  of  steel ;  his  manners  were  those  of  a  most  polished 
gentleman,  for  those  and  his  natural  understanding  had  been  care- 
fully improved  both  by  observation  and  by  self-education.  In  tem- 
per we  much  resembled  each  other  also,  being  warm,  irascible,  and 
at  times  violent ;  but  it  was  like  the  blast  of  a  hurricane,  dreadful  for 
a  time,  when  calm  almost  instantly  returned.  He  greatly  approved 
of  the  charge  in  France  during  the  time  of  Napoleon,  whom  he 
almost  idolized.  My  father  died  in  1818,  regretted  most  de- 
servedly on  account  of  his  simplicity,  truth,  and  perfect  sense  of 
honesty.     Now  I  must  return  to  myself. 

My  stepmother,  who  was  devotedly  attached  to  me,  far  too 
much  so  for  my  good,  was  desirous  that  I  should  be  brought  up  to 
live  and  die  "  like  a  gentleman,"  thinking  that  fine  clothes  and 
filled  pockets  were  the  only  requisites  needful  to  attain  this  end. 
She  therefore  completely  spoiled  me,  hid  my  faults,  boasted  to 
every  one  of  my  youthful  merits,  and,  worse  than  all,  said  fre- 
quently in  my  presence  that  I  was  the  handsomest  boy  in  France. 
All  my  wishes  and  idle  notions  were  at  once  gratified ;  she  went 
so  far  as  actually  to  grant  me  carte  blanche  at  all  the  confection- 
ery shops  in  the  town,  and  also  of  the  village  of  Cou^ron,  where 
during  the  summer  we  lived,  as  it  were,  in  the  country. 

My  father  was  quite  of  another,  and  much  more  valuable 
description  of  mind  as  regarded  my  future  welfare  ;  he  believed 
not  in  the  power  of  gold  coins  as  efficient  means  to  render  a  man 
happy.  He  spoke  of  the  stores  of  the  mind,  and  having  suffered 
much  himself  through  the  want  of  education,  he  ordered  that  I 
should  be  put  to  school,  and  have  teachers  at  home.  "  Revolu- 
tions," he  was  wont  to  say,  "  too  often  take  place  in  the  lives  of 
individuals,  and  they  are  apt  to  lose  in  one  day  the  fortune  they 
before  possessed;  but  talents  and  knowledge,  added  to  sound 
mental  training,  assisted  by  honest  industry,  can  never  fail,  nor  be 

*  This  brother  left  three  daughters ;  only  one  married,  and  her  descen- 
dants, if  any,  cannot  be  traced. 


ir 


12 


A  UDUBON 


liii" 


ili'lill 


taken  from  any  one  once  the  possessor  of  such  valuable  means." 
1  "lerefore,  notwithstanding  all  my  mother's  entreaties  and  her 
teai..  off  to  a  school  I  was  sent.  Excepting  only,  perhaps,  mili- 
tary s<  hools,  none  were  good  in  France  at  this  period ;  the  thun- 
ders <  f  the  Revolution  still  roared  over  the  land,  the  Revolutionists 
covered  the  earth  with  the  blood  of  man,  woman,  and  child.  But 
let  me  forever  drop  the  curtain  over  the  frightful  aspect  of  this 
dire  picture.  To  think  of  these  dreadful  days  is  too  terrible,  and 
would  be  too  horrible  and  painful  for  me  to  relate  to  you,  my 
dear  sons. 

The  school  I  went  to  was  none  of  the  best ;  my  private  teachers 
were  the  only  means  through  which  I  acquired  the  least  benefit. 
My  father,  who  had  been  for  so  long  a  seaman,  and  who  was  then 
in  the  French  navy,  wished  me  to  follow  in  his  steps,  or  else  to 
become  an  engineer.  For  this  reason  I  studied  drawing,  geog- 
raphy, mathematics,  fencing,  etc.,  as  well  as  music,  for  which  I 
had  considerable  talent.  I  had  a  good  fencing-master,  and  a 
first-rate  teacher  of  the  violin ;  mathematics  was  hard,  dull  work, 
I  thought ;  geography  pleased  me  more.  For  my  other  studies, 
as  well  as  for  dancing,  I  was  quite  enthusiastic ;  and  I  well  recol- 
lect how  anxious  I  was  then  to  become  the  commander  of  a  corps 
of  dragoons. 

My  father  being  mostly  absent  on  duty,  my  mother  suffered  me 
to  do  much  as  I  pleased ;  it  was  therefore  not  to  be  wondered  at 
that,  instead  of  applying  closely  to  my  studies,  I  preferred  asso- 
ciating with  boys  of  my  own  age  and  disposition,  who  were  more 
fond  of  going  in  search  of  birds'  nests,  fishing,  or  shooting,  than 
of  better  studies.  Thus  almost  every  day,  instead  of  going  to 
school  when  I  ought  to  have  gone,  I  usually  made  for  the  fields, 
where  I  spent  the  day ;  my  little  basket  went  with  me,  filled  with 
good  eatables,  and  when  I  returned  home,  during  either  winter  or 
summer,  it  was  replenished  with  what  I  called  curiosities,  such  as 
birds'  nests,  birds'  eggs,  curious  lichens,  flowers  of  all  sorts,  and 
even  pebbles  gathered  along  the  shore  of  some  rivulet. 

The  first  time  my  father  returned  from  sea  after  this  my  room 
exhibited  quite  a  show,  and  on  entering  it  he  was  so  pleased  to 
see  my  various  collections  that  he  complimented  me  on  my  taste 


for  such  t 
I,  like  a  c 
word.  D 
her  playin 
he  preseni 
on  my  vio 
it  was  strii 
any  drawi 
My  good  f 
a  tune  lefl 
father  and 
were  fasten 
tilion  was 
pocket,  an 
thoughts. 

After  son 
My  father  h 
hibited  in  h 
we  alighted 
stopped  his 
his  hat  and 
syllable  reac 
The  hous 
to  go  on  as 
by  his  side, 
beloved  boy 
may  be  able 
have  ample 
ployed  with 
and  as  I  mus 
the  fine  ship: 
pany  me." 
sented  to  ev 
less,  I  saw  m 
prisoner-of-w 
My  best  ar 
or  Vice-Adm 


AUDUBON 


13 


i 


for  such  things  :  but  when  he  inquired  what  else  I  had  done,  and 
I,  Hke  a  culprit,  hung  my  head,  he  left  me  without  saying  another 
word.  Dinner  over  he  asked  my  sister  for  some  music,  and,  on 
her  playing  for  him,  he  was  so  pleased  with  her  improvement  that 
he  presented  her  with  a  beautiful  book.  I  was  next  asked  to  play 
on  my  violin,  but  alas  1  for  nearly  a  month  I  had  not  touched  it, 
it  was  stringless  ;  not  a  word  was  said  on  that,  subject.  **  Had  I 
any  drawings  to  show?"  Only  a  few,  and  those  not  good. 
My  good  father  looked  at  his  wife,  kissed  my  sister,  and  humming 
a  tune  left  the  room.  The  next  morning  at  dawn  of  day  my 
father  and  I  were  under  way  in  a  private  carriage ;  my  trunk,  etc., 
were  fastened  to  it,  my  vioiin-case  was  under  my  feet,  the  pos- 
tilion was  ordered  to  proceed,  my  father  took  a  book  from  his 
pocket,  and  while  he  silently  read  I  was  left  entirely  to  my  own 
thoughts. 

After  some  days'  travelling  we  entered  the  gates  of  Rochefort. 
My  father  had  scarcely  spoken  to  me,  yet  there  was  no  anger  ex- 
hibited in  his  countenance ;  nay,  as  we  reached  the  house  where 
we  alighted,  and  approached  the  door,  near  which  a  sentinel 
stopped  his  walk  and  presented  arms,  I  saw  him  smile  as  he  raised 
his  hat  and  said  a  few  words  to  the  man,  but  so  low  that  not  a 
syllable  reached  my  ears. 

The  house  was  furnished  with  servants,  and  everything  seemed 
to  go  on  as  if  the  owner  had  not  left  it.  My  father  bade  me  sit 
by  his  side,  and  taking  one  of  my  hands  calmly  said  to  me  :  "  My 
beloved  boy,  thou  art  now  safe.  I  have  brought  thee  here  that  I 
may  be  able  to  pay  constant  attention  to  thy  studies ;  thou  shalt 
have  ample  time  for  pleasures,  but  the  remainder  must  be  em- 
ployed with  industry  and  care.  This  day  is  entirely  thine  own, 
and  as  I  must  attend  to  my  duties,  if  thou  wishest  to  see  the  docks, 
the  fine  ships-of-war,  and  walk  round  the  wall,  thou  may'st  accom- 
pany me."  I  accepted,  and  off  together  we  went;  I  was  pre- 
sented to  every  officer  we  met,  and  they  noticing  me  more  or 
less,  I  saw  much  that  day,  yet  still  I  perceived  that  I  was  like  a 
prisoner-of-war  on  parole  in  the  city  of  Rochefort. 

My  best  and  most  amiable  companion  was  the  son  of  Admiral, 
or  Vice-Admiral   (I  do  not  precisely  recollect  his  rank)  Vivien, 


'm 


14 


AUDUBON 


,l!i 


iiii 


who  lived  nearly  opposite  to  the  house  where  my  father  and  I 
then  resided ;  his  company  I  much  enjoyed,  and  with  him  all 
my  leisure  hours  were  spent.  About  this  time  my  father  was  sent 
to  England  in  a  corvette  with  a  view  to  exchange  prisoners,  and 
he  sailed  on  board  the  man-ol-war  "  L'Institution  "  for  Plymouth. 
Previous  to  his  sailing  he  placed  nie  imder  the  charge  of  his 
secretary,  Gabriel  Loyen  Dupuy  Gaudeau,  the  son  of  a  fallen 
nobleman.  Now  this  gentleman  was  of  no  pleasing  nature  to  me  j 
he  was,  in  fact,  more  than  too  strict  and  severe  in  all  his  pre- 
scriptions to  me,  and  well  do  I  recollect  that  one  morning,  after 
having  been  set  to  a  very  arduous  task  in  mathematical  problems, 
I  gave  him  the  slip,  jumped  from  the  window,  and  ran  off  through 
the  gardens  attached  to  the  Marine  Secretariat.  The  unfledged 
bird  may  stand  for  a  while  on  the  border  of  its  nest  md  perhaps 
open  its  winglets  and  attempt  to  soar  away,  but  his  youthful  im- 
prudence may,  and  indeed  often  does,  prove  inimical  to  his 
prowess,  as  some  more  wary  and  older  bird,  that  has  kept  an  eye 
toward  him,  pounces  relentlessly  upon  the  young  adventurer  and 
secures  him  within  the  grasp  of  his  more  powerful  talons.  This 
was  the  case  with  me  in  this  instance.  I  had  leaped  from  the 
door  of  my  cage  and  thought  myself  quite  safe,  while  I  rambled 
thoughtlessly  beneath  the  shadow  of  the  trees  in  the  garden  and 
grounds  in  which  I  found  myself;  but  the  secretary,  with  a  side 
glance,  had  watched  my  escape,  and,  ere  many  minutes  had  elapsed, 
I  saw  coming  toward  me  a  corporal  with  whom,  in  fact,  I  was 
well  acquainted.  On  nearing  me,  and  I  did  not  attempt  to  escape, 
our  past  familiarity  was,  I  found,  quite  evaporated ;  he  bid  me, 
in  a  severe  voice,  to  follow  him,  and  on  my  being  presented  to 
my  father's  secretary  I  was  at  once  ordered  on  board  the  pontoon 
in  port.  All  remonstrances  proved  fruitless,  and  on  board  the 
pontoon  I  was  conducted,  and  there  left  amid  such  a  medley  of 
culprits  as  I  cannot  describe,  and  of  whom,  indeed,  I  have  but 
little  recollection,  save  that  I  felt  vile  myself  in  their  vile  com- 
pany. My  father  returned  in  aue  course,  and  released  me  from 
these  floating  and  most  disagreeable  lodgings,  but  not  without  a 
rather  severe  reprimand. 

Shortly  after  this  we  returned  to  Nantes,  and   later  to  La 


AUDUBON 


IS 


GerWtifere.  My  stay  here  was  short,  and  I  went  to  Nantes  to 
study  mathematics  anew,  and  there  spent  about  one  year,  the 
remembrance  of  which  has  flown  from  my  memory,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  one  incident,  of  which,  when  I  happen  to  pass  my 
hand  over  the  left  side  of  my  head,  I  am  ever  and  anon  reminded. 
'T  is  this  :  one  morning,  while  playing  with  boys  of  my  own  age,  a 
quarrel  arose  among  us,  a  battle  ensued,  in  the  course  of  which  I 
was  knocked  down  by  a  round  stone,  that  brought  the  blood  from 
that  part  of  my  skull,  and  for  a  time  I  lay  on  the  ground  uncon- 
scious, but  soon  rallying,  experienced  no  lasting  effects  but  the 
scar. 

During  all  these  years  there  existed  within  me  a  tendency  to 
follow  Nature  in  her  walks.  Perhaps  not  an  hour  of  leisure  was 
spent  elsewhere  than  in  woods  and  fields,  and  to  examine  either 
the  eggs,  nest,  young,  or  parents  of  any  species  of  birds  consti- 
tuted my  delight.  It  was  about  this  period  that  I  commenced  a 
series  of  drawings  of  the  birds  of  France,  which  I  continued  until 
I  had  upward  of  two  hundred  drawings,  all  bad  enough,  my  dear 
sons,  yet  they  were  representations  of  birds,  and  I  felt  pleased 
with  them.  Hundreds  of  anecdotes  respecting  my  life  at  this 
time  might  prove  interesting  to  you,  but  as  they  are  not  in  my 
mind  at  this  moment  I  will  leave  them,  though  you  may  find  some 
of  them  in  the  course  of  the  following  pages. 

I  was  within  a  few  months  of  being  seventeen  years  old,  when 
my  stepmother,  who  was  an  earnest  Catholic,  took  into  her  head 
that  I  should  be  confirmed ;  my  father  agreed.  I  was  surprised 
and  indifferent,  but  yet  as  I  loved  her  as  if  she  had  been  my  own 
mother,  —  and  well  did  she  merit  my  deepest  affection,  —  I  took  to 
the  catechism,  studied  it  and  other  matters  pertaining  to  the  cere- 
mony, and  all  was  performed  to  her  liking.  Not  long  after  this, 
my  father,  anxious  as  he  was  that  I  should  be  enrolled  in 
Napoleon's  army  as  a  Frenchman,  found  it  necessary  to  send  me 
back  to  my  own  beloved  country,  the  United  States  of  America, 
and  I  came  with  intense  and  indescribable  pleasure. 

On  landing  at  New  York  I  caught  the  yellow  fever  by  walking 
to  the  bank  at  Greenwich  to  get  the  money  to  which  my  father's 
letter  of  credit  entitled  me.     The  kind  man  who  commanded  the 


i6 


AUDUBON 


■  W 


ship  that  brought  me  irom  France,  whose  name  was  a  common 
one,  John  Smith,  took  particular  charge  of  me,  removed  me  to 
Morristown,  N.  J.,  and  placed  me  under  the  care  of  two  Quaker 
ladies  who  kept  a  boarding-house.  To  their  skilful  and  untiring 
ministrations  I  may  safely  say  I  owe  the  prolongation  of  my  life. 
Letters  were  forwarded  by  them  to  my  father's  agent,  Miers  Fisher 
of  Philadelphia,  of  whom  I  have  more  to  say  hereafter.  He  came 
for  me  in  his  carriage  and  removed  me  to  his  villa,  at  a  short  dis- 
tance from  Philadelphia  and  on  the  road  toward  Trenton.  There 
I  would  have  found  myself  quite  comfortable  had  not  inci'lents 
taken  place  which  are  so  connected  with  the  change  in  my  life  as 
to  call  immediate  attention  to  them. 

Miers  Fisher  had  been  my  father's  trusted  agent  for  about 
eighteen  years,  and  the  old  gentlemen  enteitained  great  mutual 
friendship ;  indeed  it  would  seem  that  Mr.  Fisher  was  actually 
desirous  that  I  should  become  a  member  of  his  family,  and  this 
was  evinced  within  a  few  days  by  the  manner  in  which  the  good 
Quaker  presented  me  to  a  daughter  of  no  mean  appearance,  but 
toward  whom  I  happened  to  take  an  unconquerable  dislike.  Then 
he  was  opposed  to  music  of  all  descriptions,  f.s  well  as  to  dancing, 
could  not  bear  me  to  carry  a  gun,  or  fishing-rod,  and,  indeed, 
condemned  most  of  my  amusements.  All  these  things  were  diffi- 
culties toward  accomplishing  a  plan  which,  for  aught  I  know  to 
the  contrary,  had  been  premeditated  between  him  and  my  father, 
and  rankled  the  heart  of  the  kindly,  if  somewhat  strict  Quaker. 
They  troubled  me  much  also ;  at  times  I  wished  myself  anywhere 
but  under  the  roof  of  Mr.  Fisher,  and  at  last  I  reminded  him 
that  it  was  his  duty  to  install  me  on  the  estate  to  which  my  father 
had  sent  me. 

One  morning,  therefore,  I  was  told  that  the  carriage  was  ready 
to  carry  me  there,  and  toward  my  future  home  he  and  I  went. 
You  are  too  well  acquainted  with  the  position  of  Mill  Grove  for 
me  to  allude  to  that  now ;  suffice  it  to  say  that  we  reached  the 
former  abode  of  my  father  about  sunset.  I  was  presented  to 
our  tenant,  William  Thomas,  who  also  was  a  Quaker,  and  took 
possession  under  certain  restrictions,  which  amounted  to  my 
not  receiving  more  than  enough  money  per  quarter  than  was 


^!ll 


u 
u 

y. 

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o 


O 

o 

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/^ 


o 
as 


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I 


w'  1 


ilii 


III 


^ 
* 


,S 


considered 
man. 

Miers   F 

my  blessing 

this  was  on 

for  he  certi 

ever  to  me 

ceived  the  l 

round  the  fi 

trees,  as  wt 

The  mill  wj 

you  too  rem 

failed  to  fine 

Hunting, 

moment ;  c£ 

purchased  e 

bors  as  I  f 

could  be.     / 

informed   or 

plantation  ni 

well,  and  mt 

teresting  dat 

cared  not  a 

in  sight   of 

was  merely 

Schuylkill  Rh 

had  called  oi 

the  woods  ir 

go  shooting  \ 

and  I  such  a 

against  all  of 

weeks,  which 

Mrs.  Thom 

subject,  as  w( 

English  was  I 

on  that,  and  i 

mained  unack: 

VOL.   I 


mm 


AUDUBON 


17 


considered  sufficient   for   the   expenditure   of  a   young   gentle- 
man. 

Miers  Fisher  left  me  the  next  morning,  and  after  him  went 
my  blessings,  for  I  thought  his  departure  a  true  deliverance ;  yet 
this  was  only  because  our  tastes  and  educations  were  so  different, 
for  he  certainly  was  a  good  and  learned  man.  Mill  Grove  was 
ever  to  me  a  blessed  spot ;  in  my  daily  walks  I  thought  I  per- 
ceived the  traces  left  by  my  father  as  I  looked  on  the  even  fences 
round  the  fields,  or  on  the  regular  manner  with  which  avenues  of 
trees,  as  well  as  the  orchards,  had  been  planted  by  his  hand. 
The  mill  was  also  a  source  of  joy  to  me,  and  in  the  cave,  which 
you  too  remember,  where  the  Pewees  were  wont  to  build,  I  never 
failed  to  find  quietude  and  delight. 

Hunting,  fishing,  drawing,  and  music  occupied  my  every 
moment ;  cares  I  knew  not,  and  cared  naught  about  them.  I 
purchased  excellent  and  beautiful  horses,  visited  all  such  neigh- 
bors as  I  found  congenial  spirits,  and  was  as  happy  as  happy 
could  be.  A  few  months  after  my  arrival  at  Mill  Grove,  I  was 
informed  one  day  that  an  English  family  had  purchased  the 
plantation  next  to  mine,  that  the  name  of  the  owner  was  Bake- 
well,  and  moreover  that  he  had  several  very  handsome  and  in- 
teresting daughters,  and  beautiful  pointer  dogs.  I  listened,  but 
cared  not  a  jot  about  them  at  the  time.  The  place  was  with- 
in sight  of  Mill  Grove,  and  Fatland  Ford,  as  it  was  called, 
was  merely  divided  from  my  estate  by  a  road  leading  to  the 
Schuylkill  River.  Mr.  William  Bakewell,  the  father  of  the  family, 
had  called  on  me  one  day,  but,  finding  I  was  rambling  in 
the  woods  in  search  of  birds,  left  a  card  and  an  invitation  to 
go  shooting  with  him.  Now  this  gentleman  was  an  Englishman, 
and  I  such  a  foolish  boy  that,  entertaining  the  greatest  prejudices 
against  all  of  his  nationality,  I  did  not  return  his  visit  for  many 
weeks,  which  was  as  absurd  as  it  was  ungentlemanly  and  impolite. 

Mrs.  Thomas,  good  soul,  more  than  once  spoke  to  me  on  the 
subject,  as  well  as  her  worthy  husband,  but  all  to  no  import; 
English  was  English  with  me,  my  poor  childish  mind  was  settled 
on  that,  and  as  I  wished  to  know  none  of  the  race  the  call  re- 
mained unacknowledged. 
VOL.  I.  —  2 


1 1  m 


I '  I 


i8 


AUDUBON 


• 


Frosty  weather,  however,  came,  and  anon  was  the  ground 
covered  with  the  deep  snow.  Grouse  were  abundant  along  the 
fir-covered  ground  near  the  creek,  and  as  I  was  in  pursuit  of 
game  one  frosty  morning  I  chanced  to  meet  Mr.  Bakewell  in  the 
woods.  I  was  struck  with  the  kind  politeness  of  his  manner,  and 
found  him  an  expert  marksman.  Entering  into  conversation,  I 
admired  the  beauty  of  his  well-trained  dogs,  and,  apologizing  for 
my  discourtesy,  finally  promised  to  call  upon  him  and  his 
family. 

Well  do  I  recollect  the  morning,  and  may  it  please  God  that  I 
may  never  forget  it,  when  for  the  first  time  I  entered  Mr.  Bake- 
well's  dwelling.  It  happened  that  he  was  absent  from  home, 
and  I  was  shown  into  a  parlor  where  only  one  young  lady  was 
snugly  seated  at  her  work  by  the  fire.  She  rose  on  my  entrance, 
offered  me  a  seat,  and  assured  me  of  the  gratification  her  father 
would  feel  on  his  return,  which,  she  added,  would  be  in  a  few 
moments,  as  she  would  despatch  a  servant  for  him.  Other 
ruddy  cheeks  and  bright  eyes  made  their  transient  appearance, 
but,  like  spirits  gay,  soon  vanished  from  my  sight ;  and  there  I  sat, 
my  gaze  riveted,  as  it  were,  on  the  young  girl  before  me,  who, 
half  working,  half  talking,  essayed  to  make  the  time  pleasant  to 
me.  Oh  !  may  God  bless  her  !  It  was  she,  my  dear  sons,  who 
afterward  became  my  beloved  wife,  and  your  mother.  Mr.  Bake- 
well  soon  made  his  appearance,  and  received  me  with  the 
manner  and  hospitality  of  a  true  English  gentleman.  The  other 
members  of  the  family  were  soon  introduced  to  me,  and  "  Lucy  " 
was  told  to  have  lunc'ieon  produced.  She  now  arose  from  her 
seat  a  second  tine,  ..nd  her  form,  to  which  I  had  previously  paid 
out  partial  atteatioi.,  showed  both  grace  and  beauty;  and  my 
heart  followed  every  one  of  her  steps.  The  repast  over,  guns 
and  dogs  were  made  ready. 

Lucy,  I  was  pleased  to  believe,  looked  upon  me  with  some 
favor,  and  I  turned  more  especially  to  her  on  leaving.  I  felt 
that  certain  "Je  ne  sais  quoi  "  which  intimated  that,  at  least,  she 
was  not  indifferent  to  me. 

To  speak  of  the  many  shooting  parties  that  took  place  with 
Mr.  Bakewell  would  be  quite  useless,  and  I  shall  merely  say  that 


A  UDUBON 


19 


■i 


\ 


% 


: 


he  was  a  most  excellent  man,  a  great  shot,  and  possessed  of  ex- 
traordinary learning  —  aye,  far  beyond  my  comprehension.  A 
few  days  after  this  first  interview  with  the  family  the  Perkiomen 
chanced  to  be  bound  with  ice,  and  many  a  one  from  the  neighbor- 
hood was  playing  pranks  on  the  glassy  surface  of  that  lovely  stream. 
Being  somewhat  of  a  skater  myself,  I  sent  a  note  to  the  inhabi- 
tants of  Fatland  Ford,  inviting  them  to  come  and  partake  of  the 
simple  hospitality  of  Mill  Grove  farm,  and  the  invitation  was 
kindly  received  and  accepted.  My  own  landlady  bestirred  her- 
self to  the  utmost  in  the  procuring  of  as  many  pheasants  and 
partridges  as  her  group  of  sons  could  entrap,  and  now  under  my 
own  roof  was  seen  the  whole  of  the  Bakewell  family,  seated  round 
the  table  which  has  never  ceased  to  be  one  of  simplicity  and 
hospitality. 

After  dinner  we  all  repaired  to  the  ice  on  the  creek,  and  there 
in  comfortable  sledges,  each  fair  one  was  propelled  by  an  ardent 
skater.  Tales  of  love  may  be  extremely  stupid  to  the  majority, 
so  that  I  will  not  expatiate  on  these  days,  but  to  me,  my  dear 
sons,  and  under  such  circumstances  as  then,  and,  thank  God,  now 
exist,  every  moment  was  to  me  one  of  delight. 

But  let  me  interrupt  my  tale  to  tell  you  somewhat  of  other 
companions  whom  I  have  heretofore  neglected  to  mention. 
These  are  two  Frenchmen,  by  name  Da  Costa  and  Colmesnil. 
A  lead  mine  had  been  discovered  by  my  tenant,  William  Thomas, 
to  which,  besides  the  raising  of  fowls,  I  paid  considerable  atten- 
tion; but  I  knew  nothing  of  mineralogy  or  mining,  and  my 
father,  to  whom  I  communicated  the  discovery  of  the  mine,  sent 
Mr.  Da  Costa  as  a  partner  and  partial  guardian  from  France. 
This  fellow  was  intended  to  teach  me  mineralogy  and  mining 
engineering,  but,  in  fact,  knew  nothing  of  either ;  besides  which 
he  was  a  covetous  wretch,  who  did  all  he  could  to  niin  my  father, 
and  indeed  swindled  both  of  us  to  a  large  amount.  I  had  to  go 
to  France  and  expose  him  to  my  father  to  get  rid  of  him,  which 
I  fortunately  accomplished  at  first  sight  of  my  kind  parent.  A 
greater  scoundrel  than  Da  Costa  never  probably  existed,  but 
peace  be  with  his  soul. 

The  other,  Colmesnil,  was  a  very  interesting  young  Frenchman 


20 


AUDUBON 


with  whom  I  became  acquainted.  He  was  very  poor,  and  I 
invited  him  to  come  and  reside  under  my  roof.  This  he  did, 
remaining  for  many  months,  much  to  my  delight.  His  appear- 
ance was  typical  of  what  he  was,  a  perfect  gentleman ;  he  was 
handsome  in  form,  and  possessed  of  talents  far  above  my  own. 
When  introduced  to  your  mother's  family  he  was  much  thought 
of,  and  at  one  time  he  thought  himself  welcome  to  my  Lucy ; 
but  it  was  only  a  dream,  and  when  once  undeceived  by  her  whom 
I  too  loved,  he  told  me  he  must  part  with  me.  This  we  did  with 
mutual  regret,  and  he  returned  to  France,  where,  though  I  have 
lost  sight  of  him,  I  believe  he  is  still  living. 

During  the  winter  connected  with  this  event  your  uncle 
Thomas  Bakewell,  now  residing  in  Cincinnati,  was  one  morning 
skating  with  me  on  the  Perkiomen,  when  he  challenged  me  to 
shoot  at  his  hat  as  he  tossed  it  in  the  air,  which  challenge  I  ac- 
cepted with  great  pleasure.  I  was  to  pass  by  at  full  speed,  within 
about  twenty-five  feet  of  where  he  stood,  and  to  shoot  only  when 
he  gave  the  word.  Off  I  went  like  lightning,  up  and  down,  as  if 
anxious  to  boast  of  my  own  prowess  while  on  the  glittering  sur- 
face beneath  my  feet  \  coming,  however,  within  the  agreed 
distance  the  signal  was  given,  the  trigger  pulled,  off  went  the 
load,  and  down  on  the  ice  came  the  hat  of  my  future  brother-in- 
law,  as  completely  perforated  as  if  a  sieve.  He  repented,  alas  !  too 
late,  and  was  afterward  severely  reprimanded  by  Mr.  Bakewell. 

Another  anecdote  I  must  relate  to  you  on  paper,  which  I  have 
probably  too  often  repeated  in  words,  concerning  my  skating  in 
those  early  days  of  happiness ;  but,  as  the  world  knows  nothing 
of  it,  I  shall  give  it  to  you  at  some  length.  It  was  arranged  one 
morning  between  your  young  uncle,  myself,  and  several  other 
friends  of  the  same  age,  that  we  should  proceed  on  a  duck- 
shooting  excursion  up  the  creek,  and,  accordingly,  ofT  we  went 
after  an  early  breakfast.  The  ice  was  in  capital  order  wherever 
no  air-holes  existed,  but  of  these  a  great  number  interrupted  our 
course,  all  of  which  were,  however,  avoided  as  we  proceeded  up- 
ward along  the  glittering,  frozen  bosom  of  the  stream.  The  day 
was  spent  in  much  pleasure,  and  the  game  collected  was  not 
inconsiderable. 


O 
lit 


-J 


O       J 

i  = 


'A 


o 

'■it 

-) 

H 


On  01 

lead  the 

up,  and 

to  their 

and,  as 

ness   car 

sciously  . 

to  check 

went,  anc 

must,  for 

may,  I  n 

yards,  wli 

hole,  and 

out.     My 

suddenly 

when  I  en 

not  except 

by  the  haii 

helped  to  i 

and  comp] 

ill-fitting  gi 

ever,   mucl 

may  be,  thi 

extraordina 

have  writtei 

Mr.  Da  ( 

for  your  mo 

of  her  and  c 

of  my  rank  , 

the  question 

of  this  I  am 

so  exasperat 

usual  income 

wrote  to  my 

ray  friends 

^Philadelphia, 

passage  from 


AUDUBON 


21 


I 


On  our  return,  in  the  early  dusk  of  the  evening,  1  was  bid  to 
lead  the  way ;  I  fastened  a  white  handkerchief  to  a  stick,  held  it 
up,  and  we  all  proceeded  toward  home  as  a  flock  of  wild  ducks 
to  their  roosting-grounds.  Many  a  mile  had  already  been  passed, 
and,  as  gayly  as  ever,  we  were  skating  swiftly  along  when  dark- 
ness came  on,  and  now  our  speed  was  increased.  Uncon- 
sciously I  happened  to  draw  so  very  near  a  large  air-hole  that 
to  check  my  headway  became  quite  impossible,  and  down  it  I 
went,  and  soon  felt  the  power  of  a  most  chilling  bath.  My  senses 
must,  for  aught  I  know,  have  left  me  for  a  while ;  be  this  as  it 
may,  I  must  have  glided  with  the  stream  some  thirty  or  forty 
yards,  when,  as  God  would  have  it,  up  I  popped  at  another  air- 
hole, and  here  I  did,  in  some  way  or  another,  manage  to  crawl 
out.  My  companions,  who  in  the  gloom  had  seen  my  form  so 
suddenly  disappear,  escaped  the  danger,  and  were  around  me 
when  I  emerged  from  the  greatest  peril  I  have  ever  encountered, 
not  excepting  my  escape  from  being  murdered  on  the  prairie,  or 

by  the  hands  of  that  wretch  S B ,  of  Henderson.     I  was 

helped  to  a  shirt  from  one,  a  pair  of  dry  breeches  from  another, 
and  completely  dressed  anew  in  a  few  minutes,  if  in  motley  and 
ill-fitting  garments  ;  our  line  of  march  was  continued,  with,  how- 
ever, much  more  circumspection.  Let  the  reader,  whoever  he 
may  be,  think  as  he  may  like  on  this  singular  and,  in  truth,  most 
extraordinary  escape  from  death ;  it  is  the  truth,  and  as  such  I 
have  written  it  down  as  a  wonderful  act  of  Providence. 

Mr.  Da  Costa,  my  tutor,  took  it  into  his  head  that  my  affection 
for  your  mother  was  rash  and  inconsiderate.  He  spoke  triflingly 
of  her  and  of  her  parents,  and  one  day  said  to  me  that  for  a  man 
of  my  rank  and  expectations  to  marry  Lucy  Bakewell  was  out  of 
the  question.  If  I  laughed  at  him  or  not  I  cannot  tell  you,  but 
of  this  I  am  certain,  that  my  answers  to  his  talks  on  this  subject 
so  exasperated  him  that  he  immediately  afterward  curtailed  my 
usual  income,  made  some  arrangements  to  send  me  to  India,  and 
wrote  to  my  father  accordingly.  Understanding  from  many  of 
my  friends  that  his  plans  were  fixed,  and  finally  hearing  from 
Philadelphia,  whither  Da  Costa  had  gone,  that  he  had  taken  my 
passage  from  Philadelphia  to  Canton,  I  walked  to  Philadelphia, 


f 


22 


AUDUBON 


111! 


entered  his  room  quite  unexpectedly,  and  asked  him  for  such  an 
amount  of  money  as  would  enable  me  at  once  to  sail  for  France 
and  there  see  my  father. 

The  cunning  wretch,  for  I  cannot  call  him  by  any  other  name, 
smiled,  and  said:  "Certainly,  my  dear  sir,"  and  afterward  gave 
me  a  letter  of  credit  on  a  Mr.  Kauman,  a  half-agent,  half-banker, 
then  residing  at  New  York.  I  returned  to  Mill  Grove,  made  all 
preparatory  plans  for  my  departure,  bid  a  sad  adieu  to  my  Lucy 
and  her  family,  and  walked  to  New  York.  But  never  mind  the 
journey ;  it  was  winter,  the  country  lay  under  a  covering  of  snow, 
but  withal  I  reached  New  York  on  the  third  day,  late  in  the 
evening. 

Once  there,  I  made  for  the  house  of  a  Mrs.  Palmer,  a  lady  of 
excellent  qualities,  who  received  me  with  the  utmost  kindness, 
and  later  on  the  same  evening  I  went  to  the  house  of  your 
grand-uncle,  Benjamin  Bakewell,  then  a  rich  merchant  of  New 
York,  managing  the  concerns  of  the  house  of  Guelt,  bankers,  of 
IjOndon.  I  was  the  bearer  of  a  letter  from  Mr.  Bakewell,  of  Fat- 
land  Ford,  to  this  brother  of  his,  and  there  I  was  again  most 
kindly  received  and  housed. 

The  next  day  I  called  on  Mr,  Kauman ;  he  read  Da  Costa's 
letter,  smiled,  and  after  a  while  told  me  he  had  nothing  to  give 
me,  and  in  plain  terms  said  that  instead  of  a  letter  of  credit.  Da 
Costa  —  that  rascal !  —  had  written  and  advised  him  to  have  me 
arrested  and  shipped  to  Canton.  The  blood  rose  to  my  temples, 
and  well  it  was  that  I  had  no  weapon  about  me,  for  I  feel  even 
now  quite  assured  that  his  heart  must  have  received  the  result  of 
my  wrath.  I  left  him  half  bewildered,  half  mad,  and  went  to 
Mrs.  Palmer,  and  spoke  to  her  of  my  purpose  of  returning  at  once 
to  Philadelphia  and  there  certainly  murdering  Da  Costa.  Women 
have  great  power  over  me  at  any  time,  and  perhaps  under  all  cir- 
cumstances. Mrs.  Palmer  quieted  me,  spoke  religiously  of  the 
cruel  sin  I  thought  of  committing,  and,  at  last,  persuaded  me  to 
relinquish  the  direful  plan.  I  returned  to  Mr.  Bakewell's  low- 
spirited  and  mournful,  but  said  not  a  word  about  all  that  had 
passed.  The  next  morning  my  sad  visage  showed  something  was 
wrong,  and  I  at  last  gave  vent  to  my  outraged  feelings. 


AUDUBON 


23 


Benjamin  Bakewell  was  a  friend  of  his  brother  (may  you  ever 
be  so  toward  each  other).  He  comforted  me  much,  went  with 
me  to  the  docks  to  seek  a  vessel  bound  to  France,  and  offered 
me  any  sura  of  money  I  might  require  to  convey  me  to  my  father's 
house.  My  passage  was  taken  on  board  the  brig  "  Hope," 
of  New  Bedford,  and  I  sailed  in  her,  leaving  Da  Costa  and 
Kauman  in  a  most  exasperated  state  of  mind.  The  fact  is,  these 
rascals  intended  to  cheat  both  me  and  my  father.  The  brig 
was  bound  direct  for  Nantes.  We  left  the  Hook  under  a  very 
fair  breeze,  and  proceeded  at  a  good  rate  till  we  reached  the 
latitude  of  New  Bedford,  in  Massachusetts,  when  my  captain 
came  to  me  as  if  in  despa.ir,  and  said  he  must  run  into  port,  as 
the  vessel  was  so  leaky  as  to  force  him  to  have  her  unloaded  and 
repaired  before  he  proc.eded  across  the  Atlantic.  Now  this  was 
only  a  trick;  my  captain  was  newly  married,  and  was  merely 
anxious  to  land  at  New  Bedford  to  spend  a  few  days  with  his 
bride,  and  had  actually  caused  several  holes  to  be  bored  below 
water-mark,  which  leaked  enough  to  keep  the  men  at  the  pumps. 
We  came  to  anchor  close  to  the  town  of  New  Bedford  ;  the  cap- 
tain went  on  shore,  entered  a  protest,  the  vessel  was  unloaded, 
the  apertures  bunged  up,  and  after  a  week,  which  I  spent  in 
being  rowed  about  the  beautiful  harbor,  we  sailed  for  La  Belle 
France.  A  few  days  after  having  lost  sight  of  land  we  were 
overtaken  by  a  violent  gale,  coming  fairly  on  our  quarter,  and 
before  it  we  scudded  at  an  extraordinary  rate,  and  during  the 
dark  night  had  the  misfortune  to  lose  a  fine  young  sailor  over- 
board. At  one  part  of  the  sea  we  passed  through  an  immensity 
of  dead  fish  floating  on  the  surface  of  the  water,  and,  after  nine- 
teen days  from  New  Bedford,  we  had  entered  the  Loire,  and 
anchored  off  Painboeuf,  the  lower  harbor  of  Nantes. 

On  sending  my  name  to  the  principal  officer  of  the  customs, 
he  came  on  board,  and  afterward  sent  me  to  my  father's  villa, 
I^a  Gerb^tifere,  in  his  barge,  and  with  his  own  men,  and  late  that 
evening  I  was  in  the  arms  of  my  beloved  parents.  Although  I 
had  written  to  them  previous  to  leaving  America,  the  rapidity  of 
my  voyage  had  prevented  them  hearing  of  my  intentions,  and  to 
them  my  appearance  was  sudden  and  unexpected.     Most  wel- 


24 


AUDUBON 


come,  however,  I  was ;  I  found  my  father  hale  and  hearty,  and 
chere  maman  as  fair  and  good  as  ever.  Adored  maman,  peace 
be  with  thee  ! 

I  cannot  trouble  you  with  minute  accounts  of  my  life  in  France 
for  the  following  two  years,  but  will  merely  tell  you  that  my  first 
object  being  that  of  having  Da  Costa  disposed  of,  this  was 
first  effected ;  the  next  was  my  father's  consent  to  my  marriage, 
and  this  was  acceded  to  as  soon  as  my  good  father  had  received 
answers  to  letters  written  to  your  grandfather,  William  Bakewell. 
In  the  very  lap  of  comfort  my  time  was  happily  spent ;  I  went 
out  shooting  and  hunting,  drew  every  bird  I  procured,  as  well  as 
many  other  objects  of  natural  history  and  zoology,  though  these 
were  not  the  subjects  I  had  studied  under  the  instruction  of  the 
celebrated  David. 

It  was  during  this  visit  that  my  sister  Rosa  was  married  to 
Gabriel  Dupuy  Gaudeau,  and  I  now  also  became  acquainted  with 
Ferdinand  Rozier,  whom  you  well  know.  Between  Rozier  and 
myself  my  father  formed  a  partnership  to  stand  good  for  nine 
years  in  America. 

France  was  at  that  time  in  a  great  state  of  convulsion  ;  the  re- 
public had,  as  it  were,  dwindled  into  a  half  monarchical,  half 
democratic  era.  Bonaparte  was  at  the  height  of  success,  over- 
flowing the  country  as  the  mountain  torrent  overflows  the  plains 
in  its  course.  Levies,  or  conscriptions,  were  the  order  of  the 
day,  and  my  name  being  French  my  father  felt  uneasy  lest  I 
should  be  forced  to  take  part  in  the  political  strife  of  those 
days. 

I  underwent  a  mockery  of  an  examination,  and  was  received  as 
midshipman  in  the  navy,  went  to  Rochefort,  was  placed  on 
board  a  man-of-war,  and  ran  a  short  cruise.  On  my  return,  my 
father  had,  in  some  way,  obtained  passports  for  Rozier  and  me, 
and  we  sailed  for  New  York.  Never  can  I  forget  the  day  when, 
at  fit.  Nazaire,  an  officer  came  on  board  to  examine  the  papers  of 
the  many  passengers.  On  looking  at  mine  he  said  :  "  My  dear 
Mr.  Audubon,  I  wish  you  joy ;  would  to  God  that  I  had  such 
papers ;  how  thankful  I  should  be  to  leave  unhappy  France  under 
the  same  passport." 


I  Abou 

I  We  weri 

gained  c 
ward  of 
passed  w 
but  kept 
floating  i 
the  eneni 
her  broai 
instantant 
leaped  or 
for  the  ca] 
over  the  w 
The  ves: 
was  what  J 
nothing  but 
accordance 
therefore  w 
ofiicers  who 
thing  that  w 
sheep,  cofTe 
despite  all  t 
Congress,   J 
charm  ingyoi 
'ee,  and  aim 
ransacking  tl 
the  run  bene 
removed  the] 
that  I  placed 
in  some  cloth 
It  remained 
depart,  which 
commander  o 
his  wife  with  h 
After  this  re 
thirty  miles  of 
'"The  Poll 


AUDUBON 


25 


■*s 


About  a  fortnight  after  leaving  France  a  vessel  gave  us  chase. 
We  were  running  before  the  wind  under  all  sail,  but  the  unknown 
gained  on  us  at  a  great  rate,  and  after  a  while  stood  to  the  wind- 
ward of  our  ship,  about  half  a  mile  off.  She  fired  a  gun,  the  ball 
passed  within  a  few  yards  of  our  bows ;  our  captain  heeded  not, 
but  kept  on  his  course,  with  the  United  States  flag  displayed  and 
floating  in  the  breeze.  Another  and  another  shot  was  fired  at  us  j 
the  enemy  closed  upon  us  ;  all  the  passengers  expected  to  receive 
her  broadside.  Our  commander  hove  to :  a  boat  was  almost 
instantaneously  lowered  and  alongside  our  vessel ;  ^  two  officers 
leaped  on  board,  with  about  a  dozen  mariners ;  the  first  asked 
for  the  captain's  papers,  while  the  lal>.vr  with  his  men  kept  guard 
over  the  whole. 

The  vessel  which  had  pursued  us  was  the  "  Rattlesnake  "  and 
was  what  I  believe  i?  generally  called  a  privateer,  which  means 
nothing  but  a  pirate ;  every  one  of  the  papers  proved  to  be  in  perfect 
accordance  with  the  laws  existing  between  England  and  America, 
therefore  we  were  not  touched  nor  molested,  but  the  English 
officers  who  had  come  on  board  robbed  the  ship  of  almost  every- 
thing that  was  nice  in  the  way  of  provisions,  took  our  pigs  and 
sheep,  coffee  and  wines,  and  carried  off  our  two  best  sailors 
despite  all  the  remonstrances  made  by  one  of  our  members  of 
Congress,  I  think  from  Virginia,  who  was  accompanied  by  a 
charming  young  daughter.  The  "  Rattlesnake  "  kept  us  under  her 
lee,  and  almost  within  pistol-shot,  for  a  whole  day  and  night, 
ransacking  the  ship  for  money,  of  which  we  had  a  good  deal  in 
the  run  beneath  a  ballast  of  stone.  Although  this  was  partially 
removed  they  did  not  find  the  treasure.  I  may  here  tell  you 
that  I  placed  the  gold  belonging  to  Rozier  and  myself,  wrapped 
in  some  clothing,  under  a  cable  in  the  bow  of  the  ship,  and  there 
it  remained  snug  till  the  "Rattlesnake"  had  given  us  leave  to 
depart,  which  you  may  be  sure  we  did  without  thanks  to  her 
commander  or  crew;  we  were  afterward  told  the  former  had 
his  wife  with  him. 

After  this  rencontre  we  sailed  on  till  we  came  to  within  about 
thirty  miles  of  the  entrance  to  the  bay  of  New  York,"  when  we 
^  "  The  Polly,"  Captain  Sammis  commander.         ^  ^ay  26, 1806. 


26 


AUDUBON 


passed  a  fishing-boat,  from  which  we  were  hailed  and  told  that  two 
British  frigates  lay  off  the  entrance  of  the  Hook,  had  fired  an  Amer- 
ican ship,  shot  a  man,  and  impressed  so  many  of  our  seamen  that 
to  attempt  reaching  New  York  might  prove  to  be  both  unsafe  and 
unsuccessful.  Our  captain,  on  hearing  this,  put  about  immedi- 
ately, and  sailed  for  the  east  end  of  Long  Island  Sound,  which  we 
entered  uninterrupted  by  any  other  enemy  than  a  dreadful  gale, 
which  drove  us  on  a  sand-bar  in  the  Sound,  but  from  which  we 
made  off  unhurt  during  the  height  of  the  tide  and  finally  reached 
New  York. 

I  at  once  called  on  your  uncle  Benjamin  Bakewell,  stayed  with 
him  a  day,  and  proceeded  at  as  swift  a  rate  as  possible  to  Fat- 
land  Ford,  accompanied  by  Ferdinand  Rozier.  Mr.  Da  Costa 
was  at  once  dismissed  from  his  charge.  I  saw  my  dear  Lucy, 
and  was  again  my  own  master. 

Perhaps  it  would  be  well  for  me  to  give  you  some  slight  in- 
formation respecting  my  mode  of  life  in  those  days  of  my  youth, 
and  I  shall  do  so  without  gloves.  I  was  what  in  plain  terms 
may  be  called  extremely  extravagant.  I  had  no  vices,  it  is  true, 
neither  had  I  any  high  aims.  I  was  ever  fond  of  shooting,  fish- 
ing, and  riding  on  horseback ;  the  raising  of  fowls  of  every  sort 
was  one  of  my  hobbies,  and  to  reach  the  maximum  of  my  desires 
in  those  different  things  filled  every  one  of  my  thoughts.  I  was 
ridiculously  fond  of  dress.  To  have  seen  me  going  shooting  in 
black  satin  smallclothes,  or  breeches,  with  silk  stockings,  and 
the  finest  rufiled  shirt  Philadelphia  could  afford,  was,  as  I  now 
realize,  an  absurd  spectacle,  but  it  was  one  of  my  many  foibles,  and 
I  shall  not  conceal  it.  I  purchased  the  best  horses  in  the  country, 
and  rode  well,  and  felt  proud  of  it ;  my  guns  and  fishing-tackle 
were  equally  good,  always  expensive  and  richly  ornamented, 
often  with  silver.  Indeed,  though  in  America,  I  cut  as  many 
foolish  pranks  as  a  young  dandy  in  Bond  Street  or  Piccadilly. 

I  was  extremely  fond  of  music,  dancing,  and  drawing ;  in  all  I 
had  been  well  instructed,  and  not  an  opportunity  was  lost  to  con- 
firm my  propensities  in  those  accomplishments.  I  was,  like  most 
young  men,  filled  with  the  love  of  amusement,  and  not  a  ball,  a 
skating-match,  a  house  or  riding  party  took  place  without  me. 


AUDUBON 


27 


Withal,  and  fortunately  for  me,  I  was  not  addicted  to  gambling ; 
cards  I  disliked,  and  I  had  no  other  evil  practices.  I  was,  be- 
sides, temperate  to  an  intemperate  degree.  I  lived,  until  the  day  of 
my  union  with  your  mother,  on  milk,  fruits,  and  vegetables,  with 
the  addition  of  game  and  fish  at  times,  but  never  had  I  swallowed 
a  single  glass  of  wine  or  spirits  until  the  day  of  my  wedding.  The 
result  has  been  my  uncommon,  indeed  iron,  constitution.  This 
was  my  constant  mode  of  life  ever  since  my  earliest  recollection, 
and  while  in  France  it  was  extrem  'y  annoying  to  all  those  round 
me.  Indeed,  so  much  did  it  inhuence  me  that  I  never  went  to 
dinners,  merely  because  when  so  situated  my  peculiarities  in  my 
choice  of  food  occasioned  comment,  and  also  bee,  1  use  often  not  a 
single  dish  was  to  my  taste  or  fancy,  and  I  could  eat  nothing  from 
the  sumptuous  tables  before  me.  Pies,  puddings,  eggs,  milk,  or 
cream  was  all  I  cared  for  in  the  way  of  food,  and  many  a  time 
have  I  robbed  my  tenant's  wife,  Mrs.  Thomas,  of  the  cream  in- 
tended to  make  butter  for  the  Philadelphia  market.  All  this 
time  I  was  as  fair  and  as  rosy  as  a  girl,  though  as  strong,  indeed 
stronger  than  most  young  men,  and  as  active  as  a  buck.  And 
why,  have  I  thought  a  thousand  times,  should  I  not  have  kept  to 
that  delicious  mode  of  living?  and  why  should  not  mankind  in 
general  be  more  abstemious  than  mankind  is? 

Before  I  sailed  for  France  I  had  begun  a  series  of  drawings  of 
the  birds  of  America,  and  had  also  begun  a  study  of  their  habits. 
I  at  first  drew  my  subjects  dead,  by  which  I  mean  to  say  that, 
after  procuring  a  specimen,  I  hung  it  up  either  by  the  head,  wing, 
or  foot,  and  copied  it  as  closely  as  I  possibly  could. 

In  my  drawing  of  birds  only  did  I  interest  Mr.  Da  Costa.  He 
always  commended  my  efforts,  nay  he  even  went  farther,  for  one 
morning,  while  I  was  drawing  a  figure  of  the  Ardea  herodias^  he 
assured  me  the  time  might  come  when  I  should  be  a  great  Amer- 
ican naturalist.  However  curious  it  may  seem  to  the  scientific 
world  that  these  sayings  from  the  lips  of  such  a  man  should  affect 
me,  I  assure  you  they  had  great  weight  with  me,  and  I  felt  a 
certain  degree  of  pride  in  these  words  even  then. 

Too  young  and  too  useless  to  be  married,  your  grandfather 
*  Great  Blue  Heron. 


28 


AUDUBON 


William  Bakewell  advised  me  to  study  the  mercantile  business  j 
my  father  approved,  and  to  insure  this  training  under  the  best 
auspices  I  went  to  New  York,  where  1  entered  as  a  clerk  for  your 
great-uncle  Benjamin  Bakewell,  while  Rozier  went  to  a  French 
house  at  Philadelphia. 

The  mercantile  business  did  not  suit  me.  The  very  first  ven- 
ture which  I  undertook  was  in  indigo ;  it  cost  me  several  hundred 
pounds,  the  whole  of  which  was  lost.  Rozier  was  no  more  fortu- 
nate than  I,  for  he  shipped  a  cargo  of  hams  to  the  West  Indies, 
and  not  more  than  one-fifth  of  the  cost  was  returned.  Yet  I 
suppose  we  both  obtained  a  smattering  of  business. 

Time  passed,  and  at  last,  on  April  8th,  i8o8,  your  mother  and 
I  were  married  by  the  Rev.  Dr.  Latimer,  of  Philadelphia,  and  the 
next  morning  left  Fatland  Ford  and  Mill  Grove  for  Louisville,  Ky. 
For  some  two  years  previous  to  this,  Rozier  and  I  had  visited  the 
country  from  time  to  time  as  merchants,  had  thought  well  of  it, 
and  liked  it  exceedingly.  Its  fertility  and  abundance,  the  hospi- 
tality and  kindness  of  the  people  were  sufficiently  winning  things 
to  entice  any  one  to  go  there  with  a  view  to  comfort  and  happiness. 

We  had  marked  Louisville  as  a  spot  designed  by  nature  to  be- 
come a  place  of  great  importance,  and,  had  we  been  as  wise  as  we 
now  are,  I  might  never  have  published  the  "  Birds  of  America ; " 
for  a  few  hundred  dollars  laid  out  at  that  period,  in  lands  or  town 
lots  near  Louisville,  would,  if  left  to  grow  over  with  grass  to  a 
date  ten  years  past  (this  being  1835),  have  become  an  immense 
fortune.  But  young  heads  are  on  young  shoulders ;  it  was  not  to 
be,  and  who  cares  ? 

On  our  way  to  Pittsburg,  we  met  with  a  sad  accident,  that 
nearly  cost  the  life  of  your  mother.  The  coach  upset  on  the 
mountains,  and  she  was  severely,  but  fortunately  not  fatally  hurt. 
We  floated  down  the  Ohio  in  a  flatboat,  in  company  with  several 
other  young  families ;  we  had  many  goods,  and  opened  a  large 
store  at  Louisville,  which  went  on  prosperously  when  I  attended  to 
it ;  but  birds  were  birds  then  as  now,  and  my  thoughts  were  ever 
and  anon  turning  toward  them  as  the  objects  of  my  greatest  delight. 
I  shot,  I  drew,  I  looked  on  nature  only ;  my  days  were  happy 
beyond  human  conception,  and  beyond  this  I  really  cared  not. 


AUDUBON 


29 


Victor  was  born  June  12,  1809,  at  Gwathway's  Hotel  of  the 
Indian  Queen.  We  had  by  this  time  formed  the  acquaintance  of 
many  persons  in  and  about  Louisville ;  the  country  was  settled 
by  planters  and  farmers  of  the  most  benevolent  and  hospitable 
nature ;  and  my  young  wife,  who  possessed  talents  far  above  par, 
was  regarded  as  a  gem,  and  received  by  them  all  with  the  great- 
est pleasure.  All  the  sportsmen  and  hunters  were  fond  of  me, 
and  I  became  their  companion ;  my  fondness  for  fine  horsr:?  vas 
well  kept  up,  and  I  had  as  good  as  the  country  —  and  the  coun- 
try was  Kentucky  —  could  afford.  Our  most  intimate  friends 
were  the  Tarascons  and  the  Berthouds,  at  Louisville  and  Shipping- 
port.  The  simplicity  and  whole-heartedness  of  those  days  I 
cannot  describe ;  man  was  man,  and  each,  one  to  another,  a 
brother. 

I  seldom  passed  a  day  without  drawing  a  bird,  or  noting 
something  respecting  its  habits,  Rozier  meantime  attending  the 
counter.  I  could  relate  many  curious  anecdotes  about  him,  but 
never  mind  them ;  he  made  out  to  grow  rich,  and  what  more 
could  he  wish  for? 

In  1 810  Alexander  Wilson  the  naturalist  —  not  the  American 
naturalist  —  called  upon  me.^  About  181 2  your  uncle  Thomas 
W.  Bakewell  sailed  from  New  York  or  Philadelphia,  as  a  partner 
of  mine,  and  took  with  him  all  the  disposable  money  which  I  had 
at  that  time,  and  there  [New  Orleans]  opened  a  mercantile 
house  under  the  name  of  "  Audubon  &  Bakewell." 

Merchants  crowded  to  Louisville  from  all  our  Eastern  cities. 
None  of  them  were,  as  I  was,  intent  on  the  study  of  birds,  but  all 
were  deeply  impressed  with  the  value  of  dollars.  Louisville  did 
not  give  us  up,  but  we  gave  up  Louisville.  I  could  not  bear  to 
give  the  attention  required  by  my  business,  and  which,  indeed, 
every  business  calls  for,  and,  therefore,  my  business  abandoned 
me.  Indeed,  I  never  thought  of  it  beyond  the  ever-engaging 
journeys  which  I  was  in  the  habit  of  taking  to  Philadelphia  or 
New  York  to  purchase  goods ;  these  journeys  I  greatly  enjoyed, 

MThis  visit  passed  into  history  in  the  published  works  of  each  of  the 
great  ornithologists,  who  were  never  friends.  See  "  Behind  the  Veil,"  by 
Dr.  Coues  in  Bulletin  of  Nuttall  Ornithological  Club,  Oct.,  1880,  p.  200. 


30 


AUDUBON 


as  they  afforded  me  ample  means  to  study  birds  and  their  habits 
as  I  travelled  through  the  beautiful,  the  darling  forests  of  Ohio, 
Kentucky,  and  Pennsylvania. 

Were  I  here  to  tell  you  that  once,  when  travelling,  and  driving 
several  horses  before  me  laden  with  goods  and  dollars,  I  lost 
sight  of  the  pack-saddles,  and  the  cash  they  bore,  to  watch  the 
motions  of  a  warbler,  I  should  only  repeat  occurrences  that  hap- 
pened a  hundred  times  and  more  in  those  days.  To  an  ordinary 
reader  this  may  appear  very  odd,  but  it  is  as  true,  my  dear  sons,  as 
it  is  that  I  am  now  scratching  this  poor  book  of  mine  with  a 
miserable  iron  pen.  Rozier  and  myself  still  had  some  business 
together,  but  we  became  discouraged  at  Louisville,  and  I  longed 
to  have  a  wilder  range ;  this  made  us  remove  to  Henderson,  one 
hundred  and  twenty-five  miles  farther  down  the  fair  Ohio.  We 
took  there  the  remainder  of  our  stock  on  hand,  but  found  the 
country  so  very  new,  and  so  thinly  populated  that  the  commonest 
goods  only  were  called  for.  I  may  say  our  guns  and  fishing-lines 
were  the  principal  means  of  our  support,  as  regards  food. 

John  Pope,  our  clerk,  who  was  a  Kentuckian,  was  a  good  shot 
and  an  excellent  fisherman,  and  he  and  I  atterded  to  the  pro- 
curing of  game  and  fish,  while  Rozier  ?gain  stood  behind  the 
counter. 

Your  beloved  mother  and  I  were  as  happy  as  possible,  the 
people  round  loved  us,  and  we  them  in  return ;  our  profits  were 
enormous,  but  our  sales  small,  and  my  partner,  who  spoke  English 
but  badly,  suggested  that  we  remove  to  St.  Genevieve,  on  the 
the  Mississippi  River.  I  acceded  to  his  request  to  go  there,  but 
determined  to  leave  your  mo'-her  and  Victor  at  Henderson,  not 
being  quite  sure  that  our  adventure  would  succeed  as  we  hoped. 
I  therefore  placed  her  and  the  children  under  the  care  of  Dr. 
Rankin  and  his  wife,  who  had  a  fine  farm  about  three  miles  from 
Henderson,  and  having  arranged  our  goods  on  board  a  large 
flatboat,  my  partner  and  I  left  Henderson  in  the  month  of  De- 
cember, 1810,  in  a  heavy  snow-storm.  This  change  in  my  plans 
prevented  me  from  going,  as  I  had  intended,  on  a  long  expedi- 
tion. In  Louisville  we  had  formed  the  acquaintance  of  Major 
Croghan(an  old  friend  of  my  father's),  and  of  General  Jonathan 


lawapat 
broke  th 
vJHage  01 
for  me  ; 
dians,  un 
with  my  I 
son,  to  wl 
any  comn 
off  from  a 
found  pie; 
selling  out 
amount  in 
pJished,  I  j 
enough,  an( 
son  I  was  0 
ran  the  chr 
her  two  des 
this  passage 
found  in  the 
Winter  wn 
mines.     Nat 
marvels,  the 
abounded  wi 
at  the  sights 
crossed  those 
collecting  the 
one  hundred 
of  the  time  n( 
fored  much  a 
early  March,  a 


AUDUBON 


31 


I 


Clark,  the  brother  of  General  William  Clark,  the  first  white  man 
who  ever  crossed  the  Rocky  Mountains.  I  had  engaged  to  go 
with  him,  but  was,  as  I  have  said,  unfortunately  prevented.  To 
return  to  our  journey.  When  we  reached  Cash  Creek  we  were 
bound  by  ice  for  a  few  weeks ;  we  then  attempted  to  ascend  the 
Mississippi,  but  were  again  stopped  in  the  great  bend  called 
Tawapatee  Bottom,  where  we  again  planted  our  camp  till  a  thaw 
broke  the  ice.^  In  less  than  six  weeks,  however,  we  reached  the 
village  of  St.  Genevieve.  I  found  at  once  it  was  not  the  place 
for  me ;  its  population  was  then  composed  of  low  French  Cana- 
dians, uneducated  and  uncouth,  and  the  ever-longing  wish  to  be 
with  my  beloved  wife  and  children  drew  my  thoughts  to  Hender- 
son, to  which  I  decided  to  return  almost  immediately.  Scarcely 
any  communication  existed  between  the  two  places,  and  I  felt  cut 
off  from  all  dearest  to  me.  Rozier,  on  the  contrary,  liked  it ;  he 
found  plenty  of  French  with  whom  to  converse.  I  proposed 
selling  out  to  him,  a  bargain  was  made,  he  paid  me  a  certain 
amount  in  cash,  and  gave  me  bills  for  the  residue.  This  accom- 
plished, I  purchased  a  beauty  of  a  horse,  for  which  I  paid  dear 
enough,  and  bid  Rozier  farewell.  On  my  return  trip  to  Hender- 
son I  was  obliged  to  stop  at  a  humble  cabin,  where  I  so  nearly 
ran  the  chance  of  losing  my  life,  at  the  hands  of  a  woman  and 
her  two  desperate  sons,  that  I  have  thought  fit  since  to  introduce 
this  passage  in  a  sketch  called  "The  Prairie,"  which  is  to  be 
found  in  the  first  volume  of  my  "  Ornithological  Biography." 

Winter  was  just  bursting  into  spring  when  I  left  the  land  of  lead 
mines.  Nature  leaped  with  joy,  as  it  were,  at  her  own  new-born 
marvels,  the  prairies  began  to  be  dotted  with  beauteous  flowers, 
abounded  with  deer,  and  my  own  heart  was  filled  with  happiness 
at  the  sights  before  me.  I  must  not  forget  to  tell  you  that  I 
crossed  those  prairies  on  foot  at  another  time,  for  the  purpose  of 
collecting  the  money  due  to  me  from  Rozier,  and  that  I  walked 
one  hundred  and  sixty-five  miles  in  a  little  over  three  days,  much 
of  the  time  nearly  ankle  deep  in  mud  and  water,  from  which  I  suf- 
fered much  afterward  by  swollen  feet.  I  reached  Henderson  in 
early  March,  and  a  few  weeks  later  the  lower  portions  of  Kentucky 

*  Episode  "  Breaking  of  the  Ice." 


rr^^- — '^-.TiJf  ^!:~ 


32 


AUDUBON 


and  the  shores  of  the  Mississippi  suffered  severely  by  earthquakes. 
I  felt  their  effects  between  Louisville  and  Henderson,  and  also  at 
Dr.  Rankin's.  I  have  omitted  to  say  that  my  second  son,  John 
Woodhouse,  was  born  under  Dr.  Rankin's  roof  on  November  30, 
181 2  ;  he  was  an  extremely  delicate  boy  till  about  a  twelvemonth 
old,  when  he  suddenly  acquired  strength  and  grew  to  be  a  lusty 
child. 

Your  uncle,  Thomas  W.  Bakewell,  had  been  all  this  time  in  New 
Orleans,  and  thither  I  had  sent  him  almost  all  the  money  I  could 
raise ;  but  notwithstanding  this,  the  firm  could  not  stand,  and  one 
day,  while  I  was  making  a  drawing  of  an  otter,  he  suddenly  ap- 
peared. He  remained  at  Dr.  Rankin's  a  few  days,  talked  much 
to  me  about  our  misfortunes  in  trade,  and  left  us  for  Fatland 
Ford. 

My  pecuniary  means  were  now  much  reduced.  I  continued 
to  draw  birds  and  quadrupeds,  it  is  true,  but  only  now  and  then 
thought  of  making  any  money.  I  bought  a  wild  horse,  and  on 
its  back  travelled  over  Tennessee  and  a  portion  of  Georgia,  and 
so  round  till  I  finally  reached  Philadelphia,  and  then  to  your 
grandfather's  at  Fatland  Ford.  He  had  sold  my  plantation  of 
Mill  Grove  to  Samuel  Wetherell,  of  Philadelphia,  for  a  good 
round  sum,  and  with  this  I  returned  through  Kentucky  and  at 
last  reached  Henderson  once  more.  Your  mother  was  well,  both 
of  you  were  lovely  darlings  of  our  hearts,  and  the  effects  of  pov- 
erty troubled  us  not.  Your  uncle  T.  W.  Bakewell  was  again  in 
New  Orleans  and  doing  rather  better,  but  this  was  a  mere  tran- 
sient clearing  of  that  sky  which  had  been  obscured  for  many  a 
long  day. 

Determined  to  do  something  for  myself,  I  took  to  horse,  rode 
to  Louisville  with  a  few  hundred  dollars  in  my  pockets,  and  there 
purchased,  half  cash,  half  credit,  a  small  stock,  which  I  brought 
to  Henderson.  Chemin  faisant,  I  came  in  contact  with,  and 
was  accompanied  by.  General  Toledo,  then  on  his  way  as  a  re- 
volutionist to  South  America.  As  our  flatboats  were  floating  one 
clear  moonshiny  night  lashed  together,  this  individual  opened 
his  views  to  me,  promising  me  wonders  of  wealth  should  I  decide 
to  accompany  him,  and  he  went  so  far  as  to  offer  me  a  colonelcy 


AUDUBON 


33 


I 


on  what  he  was  pleased  to  call  "  his  Safe  Guard."  I  listened,  it 
is  true,  but  looked  more  at  the  heavens  than  on  his  face,  and  in 
the  former  found  so  much  more  of  peace  than  of  war  that  I  con- 
cluded not  to  accompany  him. 

When  our  boats  arrived  at  Henderson,  he  landed  with  me, 
purchased  many  horses,  hired  some  men,  and  coaxed  others,  to 
accompany  him,  purchased  a  young  negro  from  me,  presented 
me  with  a  splendid  Spanish  dagger  and  my  wife  with  a  ring,  and 
went  off  overland  toward  Natchez,  with  a  view  of  there  gathering 
recruits. 

I  now  purchased  a  ground  lot  of  four  acres,  and  a  meadow  of 
four  more  at  the  back  of  the  first.  On  the  latter  stood  several 
buildings,  an  excellent  orchard,  etc.,  lately  the  property  of  an 
English  doctor,  who  had  died  on  the  premises,  and  left  the 
whole  to  a  servant  woman  as  a  gift,  from  whom  it  came  to  me  as 
a  freehold.  The  pleasures  which  I  have  felt  at  Henderson,  and 
under  the  roof  of  that  log  cabin,  can  never  be  effaced  from  my 
heart  until  after  death.  The  little  stock  of  goods  brought  from 
Louisville  answered  perfectly,  and  in  less  than  twelve  months  I 
had  again  risen  in  the  world.  I  purchased  adjoining  land,  and 
was  doing  extremely  well  when  Thomas  Bakewell  came  once 
more  on  the  tapis,  and  joined  me  in  commerce.  We  prospered 
at  a  round  rate  for  a  while,  but  unfortunately  for  me,  he  took  it 
into  his  brain  to  persuade  me  to  erect  a  steam-mill  at  Henderson, 
and  to  join  to  our  partnership  an  Englishman  of  the  name  of 
Thomas  Pears,  now  dead. 

Well,  up  went  the  steam-mill  at  an  enormous  expense,  in  a 
country  then  as  unfit  for  such  a  thing  as  it  would  be  now  for  me 
to  attempt  to  settle  in  the  moon.  Thomas  Pears  came  to  Hender- 
son with  his  wife  and  family  of  children,  the  mill  was  raised,  and 
worked  very  badly.  Thomas  Pears  lost  his  money  and  we  lost 
ours. 

It  was  now  our  misfortune  to  add  other  partners  and  petty 
agents  to  our  concern ;  suffice  it  for  me  to  tell  you,  nay,  to  assure 
you,  that  I  was  gulled  by  all  these  men.  The  new-born  Kentucky 
banks  nearly  all  broke  in  quick  succession ;  and  again  we  started 
with  a  new  set  of  partners  ;  these  v;ere  your  present  uncle  N.  Ber- 

VOL.   1. — 3 


34 


AUDUBON 


ilil 


ll  I 


!!       :1 


i:.i! 


jl'liil 


thoud  and  Benjamin  Page  of  Pittsburg.  Matters,  however,  grew 
worse  every  day ;  the  times  were  what  men  called  "  bad,"  but  I 
am  fully  persuaded  the  great  fault  was  ours,  and  the  building 
of  that  accursed  steam-mill  was,  of  all  the  follies  of  man,  one  of 
the  greatest,  and  to  your  uncle  and  me  the  worst  of  all  our  pe- 
cuniary misfortunes.  How  I  labored  at  that  infernal  mill !  from 
dawn  to  dark,  nay,  at  times  all  night.  But  it  is  over  now ;  I  am 
old,  and  try  to  forget  as  fast  as  possible  all  the  different  trials  of 
those  sad  days.  We  also  took  it  into  our  heads  to  have  a  steam- 
boat, in  partnership  with  the  engineer  who  had  come  from 
Philadelphia  to  fix  the  engine  of  that  mill.  This  also  proved  an 
entire  failure,  and  misfortune  after  misfortune  came  down  upon 
us  like  so  many  avalanches,  both  fearful  and  destructive. 

About  this  time  ^  went  to  New  Orleans,  at  the  suggestion  of 

your  uncle,  to  arrest  T B ,  who  had  purchased  a  steamer 

from  us,  but  whose  bills  were  worthless,  and  who  owed  us  for  the 
whole  amount.  I  travelled  down  to  New  Orleans  in  an  open 
skiff,  accompanied  by  two  negroes  of  mine ;    I  reached  New 

Orleans  one  day  too  late ;  Mr.   B had  been  compelled  to 

surrender  the  steamer  to  a  prior  claimant.  I  returned  to  Hender- 
son, travelling  part  way  on  the  steamer  "  Paragon,"  walked  from 
the  mouth  of  the  Ohio  to  Shawnee,  and  rode  the  rest  of  the 
distance.     On  my  arrival  old  Mr.  Berthoud  told  me  that  Mr. 

B had  arrived  before  me,  and  had  sworn  to  kill  me.     My 

affrighted  Lucy  forced  me  to  wear  a  dagger.     Mr.  B walked 

about  the  streets  and  before  my  house  as  if  watching  for  me,  and 
the  continued  reports  of  our  neighbors  prepared  me  for  an  en- 
counter with  this  man,  whose  violent  and  ungovernable  temper 
was  only  too  well  known.  As  I  was  walking  toward  the  steam- 
mill  one  morning,  I  heard  myself  hailed  from  behind  ;  on  turning, 

I  observed  Mr.  B marching  toward  me  with  a  heavy  club  in 

his  hand.  I  stood  still,  and  he  soon  reached  me.  He  com- 
plained of  my  conduct  to  him  at  New  Orleans,  and  suddenly 
raising  his  bludgeon  laid  it  about  me.  Thoiigh  white  with 
wrath,  I  spoke  nor  moved  not  till  he  had  given  me  twelve  severe 
blows,  then,  drawing  my  dagger  with  my  left  hand  (unfortunately 
my  right  was  disabled  and  in  a  sling,  having  been  caught  and 


;Ji'l 


y. 


y.     --i 


aa 


iwi;'  T 


much  ii 

and  he 

hastenir 

plank. 

were  all 

through 

more  at 

variously 

Thus  pre 

sitting,  ai 

who  attac 

The  "  1 

worse  an( 

more  brai 

where  he 

From  tl 

heavy  bill 

moment  tl 

I  was  ass; 

man  was  r 

I  held  to 

day,  my  or 

Vour  mc 

thus  on  ace 

Rosa.      S/i 

heavily  thai 

and  cheerfi 

beloved  lips 

rich? 

Finally  I 
forever,  with 
by  no  means 
where  I  was 
My  planta 
nothing  was 
talents  to  rer 
^y  beloved 


AUDUBON 


35 


much  injured  in  the  wheels  of  the  steam-engine),  I  stabbed  him 
and  he  instantly  fell.  Old  Mr.  Berthoud  and  others,  who  were 
hastening  to  the  spot,  now  came  up,  and  carried  him  home  on  a 
plank.  Thank  God,  his  wound  was  not  mortal,  but  his  friends 
were  all  up  in  arms  and  as  hot-headed  as  himself.  Some  walked 
through  my  premises  armed  with  guns;  my  dagger  was  once 
more  at  my  side,  Mr.  Berthoud  had  his  gun,  our  servants  were 
variously  armed,  and  our  carpenter  took  my  gun  "  Long  Tom." 
Thus  protected,  I  walked  into  the  Judiciary  Court,  that  was  then 
sitting,  and  was  blamed,  only,  —  for  not  having  killed  the  scoundrel 
who  attacked  me. 

The  "  bad  establishment,"  as  I  called  the  steam-mill,  worked 
worse  and  worse  every  day.  Thomas  Bakewell,  who  possessed 
more  brains  than  I,  sold  his  town  lots  and  removed  to  Cincinnati, 
where  he  has  made  a  large  fortune,  and  glad  I  am  of  it. 

From  this  date  my  pecuniary  difficulties  daily  increased  ;  I  had 
heavy  bills  to  pay  which  I  could  not  meet  or  take  up.  The 
moment  this  became  known  to  the  world  around  me,  that  moment 
I  was  assailed  with  thousands  of  invectives;  the  once  wealthy 
man  was  now  nothing.  I  parted  with  every  particle  of  property 
I  held  to  my  creditors,  keeping  only  the  clothes  I  wore  on  that 
day,  my  original  drawings,  and  my  gun. 

Your  mother  held  in  her  arms  your  baby  sister  Rosa,  named 
thus  on  account  of  her  extreme  loveliness,  and  after  my  own  sister 
Rosa.  She  felt  the  pangs  of  our  misfortunes  perhaps  more 
heavily  than  I,  but  never  for  an  hour  lost  her  courage ;  her  brave 
and  cheerful  spirit  accepted  all,  and  no  reproaches  from  her 
beloved  lips  ever  wounded  my  heart.  With  her  was  I  not  always 
rich  ? 

Finally  I  paid  every  bill,  and  at  last  left  Henderson,  probably 
forever,  without  a  dollar  in  my  pocket,  walked  to  Louisville  alone, 
by  no  means  comfortable  in  mind,  there  went  to  Mr.  Berthoud's, 
where  I  was  kindly  received ;  they  were  indeed  good  friends. 

My  plantation  in  Pennsylvania  had  been  sold,  and,  in  a  word, 
nothing  was  left  to  me  but  my  humble  talents.  Were  those 
talents  to  remain  dormant  under  such  exigencies  ?  Was  I  to  see 
my  beloved   Lucy  and  children   suffer  and  want  bread,  in  the 


36 


AUDUBON 


i 


»'!^!t::!:!^l 


abundant  State  of  Kentucky?  Was  I  to  repine  because  I  had 
acted  like  an  honest  man?  Was  I  inclined  to  cut  my  throat  in 
foolish  despair  ?  No  !  !  I  had  talents,  and  to  them  I  instantly 
resorted. 

To  be  a  good  draughtsman  in  those  days  was  to  me  a  blessing ; 
to  any  other  man,  be  it  a  thousand  years  hence,  it  will  be  a  bless- 
ing also.  I  at  once  undertook  to  take  portraits  of  the  human 
"  head  divine,"  in  black  chalk,  and,  thanks  to  my  master,  David, 
succeeded  admirably.  I  commenced  at  exceedingly  low  prices, 
but  raised  these  prices  as  I  became  more  known  in  this  capacity. 
Your  mother  and  yourselves  were  sent  up  from  Henderson  to  our 
friend  Isham  Talbot,  then  Senator  for  Kentucky ;  this  was  done 
without  a  cent  of  expense  to  me,  and  I  can  never  be  grateful 
enough  for  his  kind  generosity. 

In  the  course  of  a  few  weeks  I  had  as  much  work  to  do  as  I 
could  possibly  wish,  so  much  that  I  was  able  to  rent  a  house  in 
a  retired  part  of  Louisville.  I  was  sent  for  four  miles  in  the 
country,  to  take  likenesses  of  persons  on  their  death-beds,  and  so 
high  did  my  reputation  suddenly  rise,  as  the  best  delineator  of 
heads  in  that  vicinity,  that  a  clergyman  residing  at  Louisville  (I 
would  give  much  now  to  recall  and  write  down  his  name)  had 
his  dead  child  disinterred,  to  procure  a  fac-simile  of  his  face, 
which,  by  the  way,  I  gave  to  the  parents  as  if  still  alive,  to  their 
intense  satisfaction. 

My  drawings  of  birds  were  not  neglected  meantime ;  in  this 
particular  there  seemed  to  hover  round  me  almost  a  mania,  and  I 
would  even  give  up  doing  a  head,  the  profits  of  which  would  have 
supplied  our  wants  for  a  week  or  more,  to  represent  a  little  citizen 
of  the  feathered  tribe.  Nay,  my  dear  sons,  I  thought  that  I  now 
drew  birds  far  better  than  I  had  ever  done  before  misfortune  in- 
tensified, or  at  least  developed,  my  abilities.  I  received  an  in- 
vitation to  go  to  Cincinnati,^  a  flourishing  place,  and  which  you 
now  well  know  to  be  a  thriving  town  in  the  State  of  Ohio.  I  was 
presented  to  the  president  of  the  Cincinnati  College,  Dr.  Drake, 
and  immediately  formed  an  engagement  to  stuff  birds  for  the 
museum  there,  in  concert  with  Mr.  Robert  Best,  an  Englishman 

1  1819. 


A  UDUBON 


37 


of  great  talent.  My  salary  was  large,  and  I  at  once  sent  for  your 
mother  to  come  to  me,  and  bring  you.  Your  dearly  beloved 
sister  Rosa  died  shortly  afterward.  I  now  established  a  large 
drawing-school  at  Cincinnati,  to  which  I  attended  thrice  per  week, 
and  at  good  prices. 

The  expedition  of  Major  Long  ^  passed  through  the  city  soon 
after,  and  well  do  I  recollect  how  he,  Messrs.  '1\  Peale,'*  Thomas 
Say,*  and  others  stared  at  my  drawings  of  birds  at  that  time. 

So  industrious  were  Mr.  Best  and  I  that  in  about  six  months  we 
had  augmented,  arranged,  and  finished  all  we  could  do  for  the 
museum.  I  returned  to  my  portraits,  and  made  a  great  number 
of  them,  without  which  we  must  have  once  more  been  on  the 
starving  list,  as  Mr.  Best  and  I  found,  sadly  too  late,  that  the 
members  of  the  College  museum  were  splendid  promisers  and 
very  bad  paymasters. 

In  October  of  1820  I  left  your  mother  and  yourselves  at  Cin- 
cinnati, and  went  to  New  Orleans  on  board  a  flat-boat  commanded 
and  owned  by  a  Mr.  Haromack.  From  this  date  my  journals 
are  kept  with  fair  regularity,  and  if  you  read  them  you  will  easily 
fiml  all  that  followed  afterward. 

In  glancing  over  these  pages,  I  see  that  in  my  hurried  and 
broken  manner  of  laying  before  you  this  very  imperfect  (but  per- 
fectly correct)  account  of  my  early  life  I  have  omitted  to  tell  you 
that,  before  the  birth  of  your  sister  Rosa,  a  daughter  was  born  at 
Henderson,  who  was  called,  of  course,  Lucy.  Alas  !  the  poor, 
dear  little  one  was  unkindly  born,  she  was  always  ill  and  suffering ; 
two  years  did  your  kind  and  unwearied  mother  nurse  her  with  all 
imaginable  care,  but  notwithstanding  this  loving  devotion  she 
died,  in  the  arms  which  had  held  her  so  long,  and  so  tenderly. 


1  Stephen  Harriman  Long,  Corps  of  Engineers,  U.  S.  Army,  who  was 
then  on  his  way  to  explore  the  region  of  the  upper  Mississippi  and  Minne- 
sota Rivers. 

■^  Titian  R.  Peale,  afterward  naturalist  of  the  U.  S.  Exploring  Expedi- 
tion, under  Commodore  Wilkes.  Later  in  life  he  was  for  many  years  an 
examiner  in  the  Patent  Office  at  Washington,  and  died  at  a  very  advanced 
age.  He  was  a  member  of  the  eminent  Peale  family  of  artists,  one  of 
whom  established  Peale's  Museum  in  Philadelphia.  —  E.  C. 

'  The  distinguished  naturalist  of  that  name.  —  E.  C. 


38 


AUDUBON 


% 


■^ 


li'^i 


This  infant  daughter  we  buried  in  our  garden  at  Henderson, 
but  after  removed  her  to  the  Holly  burying-ground  in  the  same 
place. 

Hundreds  of  anecdotes  I  could  relate  to  you,  my  dear  sons, 
about  tiiose  times,  and  it  may  happen  that  the  pages  that  I  am 
now  scribbling  over  may  hereafter,  through  your  own  medium,  or 
that  of  some  one  else  be  published.  I  shall  try,  should  (lod 
Almighty  grant  me  life,  to  return  to  these  less  inij)ortant  portions 
of  my  history,  and  delineate  them  all  with  the  same  faithfulness 
with  which  I  have  written  the  ornithological  biographies  of  the 
birds  of  my  beloved  country. 

Only  one  event,  however,  which  possesses  in  itself  a  lesson 
to  mankind,  I  will  here  relate.  After  our  dismal  removal  from 
Henderson  to  Ix)uisville,  one  morning,  while  all  of  us  were  sadly 
desponding,  I  took  you  both,  Victor  and  John,  from  Shijipingport 
to  Louisville.  I  had  purchased  a  loaf  of  bread  and  some  apples ; 
before  we  reached  Louisville  you  were  all  hungry,  and  by  the 
river  side  we  sat  down  and  ate  our  scanty  meal.  On  that  day  the 
world  was  with  me  as  a  blank,  and  my  heart  was  sor  ly  heavy,  for 
scarcely  had  I  enough  to  keep  my  dear  ones  alive  ;  and  yet  through 
these  dark  ways  I  was  being  led  to  the  development  of  the  talents 
I  loved,  and  which  have  brought  so  much  enjoyment  to  us  all, 
for  it  is  with  deep  thankfulness  that  I  record  that  you,  my  sons, 
have  passed  your  Hves  almost  continuously  with  your  dear  mother 
and  myself.     But  I  will  here  stop  with  one  remark. 

One  of  the  most  extraordinary  things  among  all  these  adverse 
circumstances  was  that  I  never  for  a  day  gave  up  listening  to  the 
songs  of  our  birds,  or  watching  their  peculiar  habits,  or  delineat- 
ing them  in  the  best  way  that  I  could ;  nay,  during  my  deepest 
troubles  I  frequently  would  wrench  myself  from  the  persons 
around  me,  and  retire  to  some  secluded  part  of  our  noble  forests ; 
and  many  a  time,  at  the  sound  of  the  wood-thrush's  melodies 
have  I  fallen  on  my  knees,  and  there  prayed  earnestly  to  our  God. 

This  never  failed  to  bring  me  the  most  valuable  of  thoughts  and 
always  comfort,  and,  strange  as  it  may  seem  to  you,  it  was  often 
necessary  for  me  to  exert  my  will,  and  compel  myself  to  return  to 
my  fellow-beings. 


AUDUBON 


39 


To  speak  more  fully  on  some  of  the  incidents  which 
Audubon  here  relates,  I  turn  to  one  of  the  two  journals 
wliich  are  all  that  fire  has  spared  of  the  many  volumes 
which  were  filled  with  his  fine,  rather  illegible  handwriting 
previous  to  1826.  In  the  earlier  of  these  journals  I  read: 
"  I  went  to  France  not  only  to  escape  Da  Costa,  but  even 
more  to  obtain  my  father's  consent  to  my  marriage  with 
my  Lucy,  and  this  simply  because  I  thought  it  my  moral 
and  religious  duty  to  do  so.  But  although  my  request 
was  immediately  granted,  I  remained  in  France  nearly  two 
years.  As  I  told  you,  Mr.  Bakewell  considered  my  Lucy 
too  young  (she  was  then  but  seventeen),  and  me  too  un- 
biisincss-like  to  marry ;  so  my  father  decided  that  I  should 
remain  some  months  with  him,  and  on  returning  to 
America  it  was  his  plan  to  associate  me  with  some  one 
whose  commercial  knowledge  would  be  of  value  to  me. 

"  My  father's  beautiful  country  seat,  situated  within 
sight  of  the  Loire,  about  mid-distance  between  Nantes 
and  the  sea,  I  found  quite  delightful  to  my  taste,  notwith- 
standing the  frightful  cruelties  I  had  witnessed  in  that 
vicinity,  not  many  years  previously.  The  gardens,  green- 
houses, and  all  appertaining  to  it  appeared  to  me  then 
as  if  of  a  superior  cast;  and  my  father's  physician  was 
above  all  a  young  man  precisely  after  my  own  heart ;  his 
name  was  D'Orbigny,  and  with  his  young  wife  and  infant 
son  he  lived  not  far  distant.  The  doctor  was  a  good 
fisherman,  a  good  hunter,  and  fond  of  all  objects  in  nature. 
Together  we  searched  the  woods,  the  fields,  and  the  banks 
of  the  Loire,  procuring  every  bird  we  could,  and  I  made 
drawings  of  every  one  of  them — very  bad,  to  be  sure, 
but  still  they  were  of  assistance  to  me.  The  lessons  which 
I  had  received  from  the  great  David  ^  now  proved  all- 
important  to  me,  but  what  I  wanted,  and  what  I  had  the 
good  fortune  to  stumble  upon  a  few  years  later,  was  the 

'  Jacques  Louis  David  (1748-1825),  court  painter  to  Louis  XVL  and 
afterwards  to  Napoleon  I. 


'■■'^ 


40 


AUDUBON 


knowledge  of  putting  up  my  models,  in  true  and  good 
positions  according  to  the  ways  and  habits  of  my  beauti- 
ful feathered  subjects.  During  these  happy  years  I  man- 
aged to  make  drawings  of  about  two  hundred  species  of 
birds,  all  of  which  I  brought  to  America  and  gave  to 
my  Lucy/ 

"  At  last  my  father  associated  me  with  Ferdinand  Ro- 
zier,  as  you  already  know,  and  we  were  fairly  smuggled 
out  of  France ;  for  he  was  actually  an  officer  attached  to 
the  navy  of  that  country,  and  though  I  had  a  passport 
stating  I  was  born  at  New  Orleans,  my  French  name  would 
have  swept  that  aside  very  speedily.  Rozier's  passport 
was  a  Dutch  one,  though  he  did  not  understand  a  single 
word  in  that  language.  Indeed,  our  passengers  were  a 
medley  crowd;  two  days  out  two  monks  appeared  among 
us  from  the  hold,  where  our  captain  had  concealed 
them." 

This  same  "  medley  crowd  "  appears  to  have  comprised 
many  refugees  from  the  rule  of  Napoleon,  this  being  about 
1806,  and  the  amusements  were  varied,  including  both 
gaming  and  dancing.  To  quote  again :  "  Among  the 
passengers  was  a  handsome  Virginian  girl,  young  and 
graceful.  She  was  constantly  honored  hy  the  attentions 
of  two  Frenchmen  who  belonged  to  the  nobility;  both 
were  fine  young  fellows,  travelling,  as  was  not  uncommon 
then,  under  assumed  names.  One  lovely  day  the  bon- 
net of  the  fair  lady  was  struck  by  a  rope  and  knocked 
overboard.     One  of  the  French  chevaliers  at  once  leaped 

^  In  1836,  Auduljon  wrote  to  Dr.  John  Bachman  :  "Some  of  my  early 
drawings  of  European  birds  are  still  in  our  possession,  but  many  have  been 
given  away,  and  the  greatest  number  were  destroyed,  not  by  the  rats  that 
gnawed  my  collection  of  the  "  Birds  of  America,"  but  by  the  great  fire  in  New 
York,  as  these  drawings  were  considered  my  wife's  special  property  and 
seldom  out  of  her  sight.  Would  that  the  others  had  been  under  her 
especial  care  also !  Yet  after  all,  who  can  say  that  it  was  not  a  material 
advantage,  both  to  myself  and  to  the  world,  that  the  Norway  rats  destroyed 
those  drawings  ? " 


AUDUBON 


■•"g  the  deck  he  presented  h  h"^  ^™'-  °"  -^^l- 
obeisance  and  perfect  sa^g  f^h  '^^1  "'*  ^  S'^"''"' 
l>,m   as   black  as  a  raven      X  *"  "™'  '°°''5'i  at 

■"tier  till  dawn,  when  reports"  o"f'T  ™'  ^'^"^  °^  *e 
t.e  alarm  was  general,  as  we  feared  ™'  ^"^  ^'"-i- 
'te^  deck  it  was  found  thaTa  cTall  ^  T  °"  ^^'"'"3 
-rf  accepted,  a  duel  had  po^it  ve  '  "f  "^  "^^  ^ive^ 
alas!  m  the  death  of  the  ^escul  Cf^f"  f'"'  ^"^"'S' 
young  lady  felt  this  deeply  anH  "/  .  ^°""'''-  The 
very  uncomfortable  "  "''''=''  "  rendered  us  all 

-- h:""a-"et,ioi"r;t^«"r^ '°  >«■■"  --■ 

'0  Lucy  Bakewell.  It  was  at  .  ''  ''"  "^"''-■2= 
-er  spoke  of  without  deep  fel,r  '"  •^'"'^^'^  '°-d,  an'd 
romant,c  if  you  „ii|,  ^^^  aLl'    ^^     ""=  =«>=>'t'Ve  nature, 

:-"™e„t,  and  Mill  o^tr :rt'::n:rsp^ 
-e;fptr:firnt;"xrh"- -^ 

n™ce,  almost  a  natural  terrace  ^l'  °,"  ^  S"""'^  <="''- 
^''t.  the  rapid  waters  o  pTrllr"  °"^''  '°'''''^'  '!"= 
h<^lo.v  empties  into  the  Schuv  WM  ^'■°*'  "'"■'^''  h'st 

'I-  south  is  the  historic  groCo7v  ■„"'■;"  '''''''  '° 
Ptoperty  has  remained  i„  the  Wethe  .Tr  ^^  ^°'«'-  ^he 
s-ace  Audubon  sold  it  to^^f  ,t,"^'  ^"'""y  "«tly  ever 
P.rose„t  owner,  d ';  tf  to  Trel  """"  '"  '^'^-  ^he 
■j-d  lover,  and  not  ol  makes  '  T''^  '"«  "'  the 
that  he  can  in  the  least  dL^ef      "°  """S«  '"  ^"^thing 

'f'^d   many  photographTlL'''''^"""  ''™'  •""  "- 
»l"ch  adorn  his  walls,  "^''ffrav.ngs   of  Audubon 

PasJ!rgt::gh'^t%::,:l^P-f  *°se  *^^'-"'  «  haH 
^"■"  °f  ".bble-stone  ./^^^J--  -  either  side,  wa. 


I 


42 


A  [/DC/BON 


'ii' 


11 


1774  was  sold  to  Admiral  Audubon,  who  in  the  year 
following  built  an  addition,  also  of  rubble-stone.  This 
addition  is  lower  than  the  main  house,  which  consists  of 
two  full  stories  and  an  attic  with  dormer  windows,  where, 
it  is  said,  Audubon  kept  his  collections.  The  same  Frank- 
lin stove  is  in  the  parlor  which  stood  there  giving  out  its 
warmth  and  cheer  when  the  young  man  came  in  from  the 
hunting  and  skating  expeditions  on  which  he  loved  to  dwell. 
The  dense  woods  which  once  covered  the  ground  are 
largely  cut  down,  but  sufficient  forest  growth  remains  to 
give  the  needed  shade  and  beauty ;  the  hemlocks  in  par- 
ticular are  noticeable,  so  large  and  of  such  perfect  form. 

Going  down  a  foot-path  to  Perkiomen  Creek,  a  few 
steps  lead  to  the  old  mill  which  gave  the  place  its  name. 
Built  of  stone  and  shaded  by  cottonwood  trees,  the  stream 
rushing  past  as  in  days  long  gone,  the  mill-wheel  still  re- 
volves, though  little  work  is  done  there  now. 

When  I  saw  Mill  Grove  ^  the  spring  flowers  were  abun- 
dant; the  soft,  pale  blossom  of  the  May-apple  (^Podophyl- 
lum peltatuiri)  held  its  head  above  the  blue  of  many  violets, 
the  fingers  of  the  potentilla  with  their  yellow  stars  crept 
in  and  out  among  the  tangled  grass  and  early  under- 
growth; the  trilliums,  both  red  and  white,  were  in  pro- 
fusion ;  in  the  shade  the  wood  anemones,  with  their  shell 
pink  cups  grew  everywhere,  while  in  damp  spots  by  the 
brook  yet  remained  a  few  adder's-tongues,  and  under  the 
hemlocks  in  the  clefts  of  the  rocks  the  delicate  foliage  of  the 
Dutchmen's  breeches  {Dicentra  cticullarid)  with  a  few  late 
blossoms ;  all  these  and  many  more  which  I  do  not  now 
recall,  Audubon  has  pictured  with  the  birds  found  in  the 
same  regions,  as  his  imperishable  tribute  to  the  home  he 
loved —  Mill-Grove  Farm  on  the  Perkiomen  Creek. 

Fatland  Ford,  to  the  south  of  Mill  Grove,  is  a  far  larger 
and  grander  mansion  than  that  of  the  modest  Quaker 
Evans;    as  one   approaches,  the   white    columns   of  the 

I  April  28,  1893. 


,  I 


AUDUBON 


43 


imposing  entrance  are  seen  for  some  distance  before  enter- 
ing the  avenue  which  leads  to  the  front  of  the  mansion. 
Like  Mill  Grove  it  stands  on  a  natural  terrace,  and  has  an 
extensive  outlook  over  the  Schuylkill  and  Valley  Forge. 
This  house  was  built  by  James  Vaux  in  1760.  He  was  a 
member  of  the  Society  of  Friends  and  an  Englishman,  but 
in  sympathy  with  the  colonists.  One  end  of  Sullivan's 
Bridge  was  not  far  from  the  house ;  the  spot  where  it  once 
stood  is  now  marked  by  the  remains  of  a  red-sandstone 
monument.^  Washington  spent  a  night  in  the  mansion 
house  with  Mr.  Vaux,  and  left  only  twelve  hours  in 
advance  of  the  arrival  of  Howe,  who  lodged  there  the 
followmg  night.^  The  old  walled  garden  still  remains,  and 
the  stable  with  accommodation  for  many  horses.  A  little 
withdrawn  from  all  these  and  on  the  edge  of  a  wood  are 
"  the  graves  of  a  household,"  not  neglected,  as  is  so  often 
the  case,  but  preserved  and  cared  for  by  those  who  own 
Fatland  Farm^  as  well  as  Mill  Grove. 

Dear  as  Mill  Grove  was  to  Audubon,  he  left  it  with  his 
young  bride  the  day  following  their  wedding,  which  took 
place  at  Fatland  Ford  on  April  8,  1808,  and  departed 
for  Louisville,  Ky.,  where  he  and  Rozier,  his  part^ser,  had 
previously  done  some  business.  Though  they  had  both  lost 
money  they  liked  the  place,  which  reason  seemed  quite  suffi- 
cient to  decide  them  to  return  and  lose  more  money,  as 
they  promptly  did.     They  remained  at  Louisville  till  18 10, 

^  "  I  have  often  seen  the  red-sandstone  monument  placed  to  mark  the 
terminal  of  the  Sullivan  Bridge  on  our  side  of  the  river,  but  the  curiosity 
hunters  have  so  marred  it  that  only  '  livans'  and  part  of  the  date  remain." 
(Extract  from  letter  of  Mr.  W.  H.  Wetherill,  Aug.  12,  1893.) 

"^  This  statement  is  from  the  "  Pennsylvania  Magazine  of  History  and 
Biography,"  vol.  xiv..  No.  2,  page  218,  Ju'iy,  1890. 

8  "  Under  the  will  of  Col.  Jno.  Macor.ib  Wetherill,  late  owner  of  Fatland 
Farm,  40  feet  square  were  deeded  out  of  the  farm,  and  placed  in  trust,  and 
Jicoo  trusteed  to  keep  the  grove  aid  lot  in  order.  A  granite  curb  and 
heavy  iron  rail  surround  this  plot;  Col.  Wetherill  was  buried  there  and  his 
remains  lie  with  those  of  your  ancestors."  (Extract  from  letter  of  W.  H. 
Wetherill,  May  10,  1897.) 


44 


'AUDUBON 


when  they  moved  to  Henderson,  where  Rozier  did  what 
business  was  done,  and  Audubon  drew,  fished,  hunted,  and 
rambled  in  the  woods  to  his  heart's  content,  but  his  purse's 
depletion.  He  describes  this  life  in  the  episode  "  Fishing 
in  the  Ohio,"  and  in  these  rushing  times  such  an  Arcadian 
existence  seems  impossible.  Small  wonder  that  his  wife's 
relatives,  with  their  English  thrift,  lost  patience  with  him, 
could  not  believe  he  was  aught  but  idle,  because  he  did 
not  work  their  way.  I  doubt  not  many  would  think,  as 
they  did,  that  he  wasted  his  days,  when  in  truth  he  was 
laying  up  stores  of  knowledge  which  later  in  life  brought 
him  a  rich  harvest.  Waiting  times  are  always  long,  long- 
est to  those  who  do  not  understand  the  silent  inner  growth 
which  goes  on  and  on,  yet  makes  no  outward  sign  for 
months  and  even  years,  as  in  the  case  of  Audubon. 

Henderson  was  then  a  tiny  place,  and  gains  being  small 
if  any,  Rozier  and  Audubon,  in  December,  1810,  started 
for  St.  Genevieve,  spent  their  winter  in  camp,  and  reached 
their  destination  when  the  ice  broke  up.  On  April  11, 
181 1,  they  dissolved  partnership,  and  wrote  each  as  they 
felt,  Audubon  saying :  "  Rozier  cared  only  for  money  and 
liked  St.  Genevieve;  "  Rozier  writing:  "Audubon  had  no 
taste  for  commerce,  and  was  continually  in  the  forest." 

Once  more,  however,  he  went  to  St.  Genevieve  to  try 
to  get  money  Rozier  owed  him,  and  returned  to  Hender- 
son on  foot,  still  unpaid,  in  February  or  March  of  18 12. 
He  had  gone  with  a  party  of  Osage  Indians,  but  his  jour- 
ney back  was  made  alone.  He  writes  in  his  journal,  simply 
with  date  of  April,  1 8 1 2  :  — 

"  Bidding  Rozier  good-bye,  I  whistled  to  my  dog, 
crossed  the  Mississippi  and  went  off  alone  and  on  foot, 
bent  on  reaching  Shawanee  Town  as  soon  as  possible; 
but  little  had  I  foreseen  the  task  before  me,  for  soon  as  I  had 
left  the  river  lands  and  reached  the  prairies,  I  found  them 
covered  with  water,  like  large  lakes;  still  nothing  would 
have  made  me  retrace  my  steps,  and  the  thoughts  of  my 


sins  c( 
notwii 
Mudd. 
great  \ 
like  m 
ments, 
for  ma 
U'hich  a 
it.     I,v 
and  whi 
the  dau^ 
boiJcd  sc 
"Such 
ter  came 
his  famir 
sl'^'ins,  but 
ess  was  01 
small  Jonl 
money  wo 
powder,  a 
"My  wi 
roads  now 
travelled  ai 
Indians  en( 
Tiiey  undei 
'soiled  bear 
then  Jay  do 
that  \\\\Q^ 
a'^  tlie  Indis 
to  keep  the 
"  J  waikec 
t'^J  four  o'c 
thirty  minutt 
^  entered   tl 


AUDUBON 


45 


Lucy  and  my  boy  made  me  care  little  what  my  journey 
might  be.  Unfortunately  I  had  no  shoes,  and  my  mocca- 
sins constantly  slipping  made  the  wading  extremely  irksome ; 
notwithstanding,  I  walked  forty-five  miles  and  swam  the 
Muddy  River.  I  only  saw  two  cabins  that  day,  but  I  had 
great  pleasure  in  viewing  herds  ofDeer  crossing  the  prairie, 
like  myself  ankle  deep  in  water.  Their  beautiful  move- 
ments, their  tails  spread  to  the  breeze,  were  perceivable 
for  many  miles.  A  mound  covered  with  trees  through 
which  a  light  shone,  gave  me  an  appetite,  and  I  made  for 
it.  I  was  welcomed  kindly  by  the  woman  of  the  house, 
and  while  the  lads  inspected  my  fine  double-barrelled  gun, 
the  daughters  bustled  about,  ground  coffee,  fried  venison, 
boiled  some  eggs,  and  made  me  feel  at  once  at  home. 

"  Such  hospitality  is  from  the  heart,  and  when  the  squat- 
ter came  in,  his  welcome  was  not  less  genuine  than  that  of 
his  family.  Night  fell;  I  slept  soundly  on  some  bear- 
skins, but  long  before  day  was.  ready  to  march.  My  host- 
ess was  on  the  alert;  after  some  breakfast  she  gave  me  a 
small  loaf  and  some  venison  in  a  clean  rag,  and  as  no 
money  would  be  received,  I  gave  the  lads  a  flask  of  gun- 
powder, a  valuable  article  in  those  days  to  a  squatter. 

"  My  way  lay  through  woods,  and  many  small  cross- 
roads now  puzzled  me,  but  I  walked  on,  and  must  have 
travelled  another  forty-five  miles.  I  met  a  party  of  Osage 
Indians  encamped,  and  asked  in  French  to  stay  with  them. 
They  understood  me,  and  before  long  I  had  my  supper  of 
boiled  bear's-fat  and  pecan-nuts,  of  which  I  ate  heartily, 
then  lay  down  with  my  feet  to  the  fire,  and  slept  so  soundly 
that  when  I  awoke  my  astonishment  was  great  to  find 
all  the  Indians  had  gone  hunting,  and  only  left  two  dogs 
to  keep  the  camp  free  from  wolves. 

"  I  walked  off  gayly,  my  dog  full  of  life,  but  met  no  one 
till  four  o'clock  when  I  passed  the  first  salt  well,  and 
thirty  minutes  more  brought  me  to  Shawanee  Town.  As 
I   entered   the   inn   I   was  welcomed  by  several  whom  I 


46 


AUDUBON 


t 


liilil 


knew,  who  had  come  to  purchase  salt.  I  felt  no  fatigue, 
ate  heartily,  slept  soundly  without  being  rocked,  and 
having  come  forty  miles  had  only  forty-seven  more  to 
walk  to  reach  my  home.  Early  next  morning  I  pursued 
my  way ;  the  ferry  boat  took  me  from  Illinois  to  Kentucky, 
and  as  night  came  I  found  myself  with  my  wife  beside  me, 
my  child  on  my  knee." 

The  time  from  now  till  1819  was  the  most  disastrous 
period  of  Audubon's  life,  as  regarded  his  finances.  With 
his  brother-in-law,  Thomas  W.  Bakewell,  he  engaged  in 
various  ventures  in  which,  whatever  others  did,  he  lost 
money  at  every  turn.  The  financial  affairs  of  Kentucky 
were,  it  is  true,  not  on  a  very  sound  basis,  but  Audubon 
frankly  acknowledges  the  fault  in  many  cases  was  his  own. 
Thomas  W.  Bakewell  was  often  in  New  Orleans,  where  they 
had  a  mercantile  establishment,  and  Audubon  spent  not 
only  days,  but  weeks  and  months,  at  his  favorite  pursuits. 
On  his  journeys  to  Philadelphia  to  procure  goods  he  wan- 
dered miles  in  all  directions  from  the  main  route;  when 
in  Henderson  he  worked,  at  times,  very  hard  in  the  mill, 
for,  indeed,  he  never  did  anything  except  intensely;  but  the 
cry  of  the  wild  geese  overhead,  the  sound  of  the  chatter- 
ing squirrel,  the  song  of  the  thrush,  the  flash  of  the  hum- 
ming-bird with  its  jewelled  throat,  were  each  and  all  enough 
to  take  him  from  work  he  hated  as  he  never  hated  any- 
thing else. 

When  first  in  Henderson  he  bought  land,  and  evidently 
had  some  idea  of  remaining  there  permanently;  for,  "  on 
March  16,  18 16,  he  and  Mr.  Bakewell  took  a  ninety- 
five  years'  lease  of  a  part  of  the  river  front  between  First 
and  Second  Sts.,  intending  to  erect  a  grist  and  saw  mill, 
which  mill  was  completed  in  18 17,  and  yet  stands,  though 
now  incorporated  in  the  factory  of  Mr.  David  Clark.  The 
weather-boarding  whip-sawed  out  of  yellow  poplar  is  still 
intact  on  three  sides,  the  joists  are  of  unhewn  logs,  and 
the  foundation  walls  of  pieces  of  flat  broken  rock  are  four 


and 
large 
It 
ings 
never 
that,  : 
on  a  t 
dubon 
his  par 
of  him. 
money 
merchai 
I'Jght  to 
niiess. 
reft  of  aJ 
acquirem 
garden  ar 
^eart,  anc 
f'le  saddc! 
when  the  1 
and  \hQ  ^A 

and  the  pr| 

^>'es  from 

never  exist] 

f'rom   l| 

ShippfngpJ 

^'cholas  bI 

^'^e  ^arascol 

^^^o  sons,  \f 

^  quote    fJ 

straitened   tl 

Portra/ts  at  tl 

e'-e  many  daj 

^rom  "Hi J 


'['•If 


AUDUBCN 


47 


and  a  half  feet  thick.     For  those  days  it  was  built  on  a 
large  scale,  and  did  the  sawing  for  the  entire  country."  ^ 

It  has  been  said  that  the  inside  walls  had  many  draw- 
ings of  birds  on  them,  but  this,  while  quite  likely,  has 
never  been  proved;  what  was  proved  conclusively  is 
that,  from  his  woodcutters,  whose  labors  were  performed 
on  a  tract  of  forest  land  of  about  I2CX)  acres,  which  Au- 
dubon purchased  from  the  government,  to  those  who  were 
his  partners,  by  far  the  greater  number  had  the  advantage 
of  him.  The  New  Orleans  venture  has  a  similar  record ; 
money  left  him  by  his  father  was  lost  by  the  failure  of  the 
merchant  who  held  it  until  Audubon  could  prove  his 
right  to  it,  and  finally  he  left  Henderson  absolutely  pen- 
niless. He  writes:  "Without  a  dollar  in  the  world,  be- 
reft of  all  revenues  beyond  my  own  personal  talents  and 
acquirements,  I  left  my  dear  log  house,  my  delightful 
garden  and  orchards  with  that  heaviest  of  burdens,  a  heavy 
heart,  and  turned  my  face  toward  Louisville.  This  was 
the  saddest  of  all  my  journeys,  —  the  only  time  in  my  life 
when  the  Wild  Turkeys  that  so  often  crossed  my  path, 
and  the  thousands  of  lesser  birds  that  enlivened  the  woods 
and  the  prairies,  all  looked  like  enemies,  and  I  turned  my 
eyes  from  them,  as  if  I  could  have  wished  that  they  had 
never  existed." 

From  Louisville  Audubon  went  almost  at  once  to 
Shippingport,  where  he  was  kindly  received  by  his  friends 
Nicholas  Berthoud,  who  was  also  his  brother-in-law,  and 
the  Tarascon  family.  Here  he  was  joined  by  his  wife  and 
two  sons,  Victor  Gififord  and  John  Woodhouse,  and  again 
I  quote  from  Audubon's  own  words:  "As  we  were 
straitened  to  the  very  utmost,  I  undertook  to  draw 
portraits  at  the  low  price  of  five  dollars  per  head,  in  black 
chalk.  I  drew  a  few  gratis,  and  succeeded  so  well  that 
ere  many  days  had  elapsed  I  had  an  abundance  of  work ; 

1  From  "  History  of  Henderson  County,  Kentucky,"  by  E.  L.  Starling, 

page  794- 


48 


AUDUBON 


.1 


and  being  industrious  both  by  nature  and  habit  I  pro- 
duced a  great  number  of  those  black-ch  ilk  sketches."* 
This  carried  him  on  for  some  months,  but  the  curse,  or 
blessing,  of  the  "  wandering  foot "  was  his,  and  as  soon 
as  money  matters  were  a  httle  ahead,  off  he  went  again 
to  the  forests.  It  was  during  these  years,  that  is  from  i8i  i 
to  1 8 19,  that  many  months  were  passed  hunting  with  the 
Indians,  the  Osage  tribe  being  the  one  whose  hmguage 
Audubon  spoke.  Late  in  hfe  he  wrote:  "Of  all  the 
Indian  tribes  I  know,  the  Osage  are  by  far  the  superior." 
With  them  he  delighted  to  track  the  birds  and  quadrupeds 
as  only  an  Indian  or  one  of  like  gifts,  can ;  from  them  he 
learned  much  woodcraft;  with  them  he  strengthened  his 
already  iron  constitution ;  and  in  fearlessness,  endurance, 
patience,  and  marvellously  keen  vision,  no  Indian  sur- 
passed him. 

He  had  a  wonderful  gift  of  making  and  retaining  friends, 
and  even  in  these  days  of  poverty  and  depression  he 
never  seemed  too  poor  to  help  others;  and  certainly  from 
others  he  received  much  kindness,  which  he  never  ceased 
to  remember  and  acknowledge.  Through  one  of  these 
friends  —  I  believe  a  member  of  the  Tarascon  family  — 
he  was  offered  a  position  in  the  Museum  at  Cincinnati. 
Without  delay,  or  any  written  agreement,  Audubon  and 
his  family  were  again  (18 18)  in  new  surroundings,  and 
the  work  being  congenial,  he  entered  heartily  into  it  with 
Mr.  Robert  Best.  The  promised  salary  was  large,  but 
being  never  paid  Audubon  began  drawing  classes  to  sup- 
port his  modest  household.  In  Cincinnati  he  first  met 
Mr.  Daniel  Mallory  (whose  second  daughter  afterwards 
married  Victor  G.  Audubon)  and  Captain  Samuel  Cum- 
mings.  This  latter  gentleman  had  many  tastes  similar  to 
Audubon's,  and  later  went  with  him  to  New  Orleans. 

The  life  at  Cincinnati  was  one  of  strict  economy.     Mrs. 
Audubon   was  a  woman  of  great   ability   and    many   re- 
^  Of  these  many  sketches  few  can  be  traced,  and  none  purchased. 


<:^^2/t/i        —     -"    O--^^  / e^  <f«ii,/,-^^ 


FROM  THI-:  MINIAIfRn   IIY  F.  CRflKSHANK,  rrlll.ISIlKl)  HY   RiiUKRT  HAVF.I.L, 
J.-inuary  12,  18^5. 


sou  re 

would 

"Our 

the  m 

and  a  . 

deal  m 

I  can  s 

and  W 

always 

Even 

money  ^ 

cided  01 

number 

suggcste 

his   colle 

Southern 

returning' 

cinnati  \vi 

but  with  £ 

before  mi 

cess  until 

as  tutor  fi 

Sara.     He 

never  vveai 

more  to  h 

houses  of  t 

of  yellow  ft 

^^ny  new  c 

tion  from  th 

^he  furniture 

he  took  his  j 

The   form 

painting  birc 

^gain,  thougl 

'  Mrs.  Audubc 
''"ndred  dollars  d 


AUDUBON 


49 


sources,  and  with  one  less  gifted  her  unpractical  husband 
would  have  fared  far  worse  than  he  did.  To  quote  again: 
"  Our  living  here  [Cincinnati]  is  extremely  moderate; 
the  markets  are  well  supplied  and  cheap,  beef  only  two 
and  a  half  cents  a  pound,  and  I  am  able  to  provide  a  good 
deal  myself;  Partridges  are  frequently  in  the  streets,  and 
I  can  shoot  Wild  Turkeys  within  a  mile  or  so;  Squirrels 
and  Woodcock  are  very  abundant  in  the  season,  and  fish 
always  easily  caught." 

Even   with   these   advantages,   Audubon,    receiving  no 
money  1  from  Dr.  Drake,    president  of  the    Museum,  de- 
cided on  going   to  New  Orleans,     He  had  now  a  great 
number  of  drawings  and  the  idea  of  publishing  these  had 
suggested    itself  both   to  him  and    his  wife.      To    perfect 
his   collection   he   planned   going   through    many   of   the 
Southern   States,  then  pushing  farther  west,  and  thence 
returning  to  Cincinnati.     On  Oct.   12,  1820,  he  left  Cin- 
cinnati with  Captain  Samuel  Cummings  for  New  Orleans, 
but  with  a  long  pause  at  Natchez,  did  not  reach  that  city 
before  mid-winter,   where  he  remained  with  varying  suc- 
cess until  the  summer  of  1821,  when  he  took  a  position 
as  tutor  in  the   family  of  Mrs.   Charles  Percy  of  Bayou 
Sara.     Here,  in  the  beloved  Louisiana  whose  praises  he 
never  wearied  of  singing,  whose    magnolia   woods   were 
more   to   him   than   palaces,    whose   swamps  were   store- 
houses of  treasures,  he  stayed  till  autumn,  when,  all  fear 
of  yellow  fever  being  over,  he  sent  for  his  wife  and  sons. 
Many  new  drawings  had  been  made  in  this  year  of  separa- 
tion from  them,  and  these  were  by  far  the  greater  part  of 
the  furniture  in  the  little  house  in  Dauphine  St.,  to  which 
he  took  his  family  on  their  arrival  in  December,  1821. 

The  former  life  of  drawing  portraits,  giving  lessons, 
painting  birds,  and  wandering  through  the  country,  began 
again,  though  there  was  less  of  this  last,  Audubon  realizing 

^  Mrs.  Audubon  aftenvards  received  four  hundred  dollars,  of  the  twelve 
hundred  dollars  due ;  the  remainder  was  never  paid. 
VOL.  I. — 4 


50 


AUDUBON 


that  he  must  make  money.  He  had  had  to  use  strong 
persuasions  to  induce  Mrs.  Audubon  to  join  him  in  New 
Orleans.  She  had  rchitives  in  Cincinnati,  as  well  as  many 
friends,  and  several  pupils  brought  her  a  small  income. 
Who,  recalling  her  early  married  life,  can  wonder  that  she 
hesitated  before  leaving  this  home  for  the  vicissitudes  of 
an  unknown  city?  She  and  her  husband  were  devotedly 
attached  to  each  other,  but  she  thought  more  of  the  un- 
certainty for  her  sons  than  for  herself.  They  were  now 
boys  of  twelve  and  nine  years  old,  and  their  mother,  whose 
own  education  was  far  beyond  the  average,  realized  how 
unwise  a  thing  for  them  the  constant  change  was.  Aud- 
ubon was  most  anxious  also  that  his  "  Kentucky  lads,"  as 
he  often  called  them,  should  be  given  every  advantage, 
but  he  had  the  rare  quality  of  being  able  to  work 
equally  well  in  any  surroundings,  in  doors  or  out,  and  he 
failed  to  understand  why  others  could  not,  just  as  he  failed 
to  see  why  his  wife  should  ever  doubt  the  desirability  of 
going  anywhere,  at  any  time,  under  any  conditions.  He 
thus  writes  to  her  in  a  letter,  dated  New  Orleans,  May  3, 
1821 :  "Thou  art  not,  it  seems,  as  daring  as  I  am  about 
leaving  one  place  to  go  to  another,  without  the  means.  I 
am  sorry  for  that.  I  never  will  fear  want  as  long  as  I  am 
well ;  and  if  God  will  grant  me  health  with  the  little  talents 
I  have  received  from  Nature,  I  would  dare  go  to  England 
or  anywhere,  without  one  cent,  one  single  letter  of  intro- 
duction to  any  one." 

This,  as  we  know,  was  no  empty  boast,  but  the  principle 
on  which  Audubon  proceeded  numberless  times  in  his  life. 
His  own  courage,  or  persuasions,  brought  his  wife,  as  has 
been  said,  to  join  him  in  the  Crescent  City,  and  here  as 
elsewhere  that  noble  woman  proved  her  courage  and  en- 
durance fully  equal  to  his,  although  perhaps  in  another 
line. 

Under  the  date  of  January  i,  1822,  Audubon  vrites: 
"  Two  months  and  five  days  have  elapsed  before  I  could 


to^ 

tile 

5th 

cipa 

supf 

John 

geog 

per  r 

birds 

a/one 

strcnu 

prcven 

stances 

many  \ 

the  resc 

J  hired 

that  I  c. 

ot^iers  in 
se/ves  int( 
This  w 
■Audubon 
«ie  place 
^ome.     X 
S'mpJicity, 
their  own  j 

^''e  accour 

^^'■ejofnec, 
.^oth  pJayJ 

'"strumentsl 

^^'■overtwl 
^"■cle  \n  Mf 
^°""d  one 


mm\ 


AUDUBON 


51 


venture  to  dispose  of  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  cents 
to  pay  for  this  book,  that  probably,  hke  all  other  things  in 
the  world,  is  ashamed  to  find  me  so  poor."  On  March 
5th  of  the  same  year:  "  During  January  my  time  was  prin- 
cipally spent  in  giving  lessons  in  painting  and  drawing,  to 
supply  my  family  and  pay  for  the  schooling  of  Victor  and 
Johnny  at  a  Mr.  Branards',  where  they  received  notions  of 
geography,  arithmetic,  grammar,  and  writing,  for  six  dollars 
per  month  each.  Every  moment  I  had  to  spare  I  drew 
birds  for  my  ornithology,  in  which  my  Lucy  and  myself 
alone  have  faith.  February  was  spent  in  drawing  birds 
strenuously,  and  I  thought  I  had  improved  much  by  ap- 
plying coats  of  water-color  under  the  pastels,  thereby 
preventing  the  appearance  of  the  paper,  that  in  some  in- 
stances marred  my  best  productions.  I  discovered  also 
many  imperfections  in  my  earlier  drawings,  and  formed 
the  resolution  to  redraw  the  whole  of  them;  consequently 
I  hired  two  French  hunters,  who  swept  oft"  every  dollar 
that  I  could  raise  for  specimens.  I  have  few  acquaint- 
ances ;  my  wife  and  sons  are  more  congenial  to  mc  than  all 
others  in  the  world,  and  we  have  no  desire  to  force  our- 
selves into  a  society  where  every  day  I  receive  fewer  bows." 
This  winter  (i 821-1822)  in  New  Orleans,  proved  to 
Audubon  that  his  wife's  judgment  was  correct ;  it  was  not 
the  place  for  them  to  make  either  a  permanent  income  or 
home.  True,  they  had  been  able  to  live  with  extreme 
simplicity,  and  to  send  the  boys  to  school ;  they  had  had 
their  own  pleasures,  as  the  worn,  brown  volume,  the  journal 
of  1822-24,  with  its  faded  entries,  bears  witness.  There 
are  accounts  of  walks  and  of  musical  evenings  when  they 
were  joined  by  one  or  two  friends  of  like  tastes  and  talents. 
Both  played  well,  she  on  the  piano,  and  he  on  a  variety  of 
instruments,  principally  the  violin,  flute,  and  flageolet. 
For  over  two  months  a  fifth  inmate  was  added  to  the  home 
circle  in  Mr.  Matabon,  a  former  friend,  whom  Audubon 
found   one  morning  in  the  market,   in   a  state  of  great 


52 


AUDUBON 


I 


poverty.  He  at  once  took  him  to  his  house  and  kept  him 
as  a  guest,  till,  like  Micawber,  "  something  turned  up  "  for 
him  to  do.  When  this  gentleman  left,  this  entry  is  made : 
"  Mr.  Matabon's  departure  is  regretted  by  us  all,  and  we 
shall  sorely  miss  his  beautiful  music  on  the  flute." 

Summer  approaching,  when  those  who  purchased  pic- 
tures and  took  drawing-lessons  were  about  to  leave  the 
city,  Audubon  accepted  a  position  aS  tutor  in  the  house- 
hold of  a  Mr.  Quaglas  near  Natchez.  Mrs.  Audubon,  who 
had  for  some  time  been  teaching  in  the  family  of  Mr. 
Brand,  removed  to  that  gentleman's  house  with  her  sons; 
they,  however,  were  almost  immediately  sent  to  school  at 
Washington,  nine  miles  from  Natchez,  Audubon's  salary 
enabling  him  to  do  this,  and  in  September  he  was  joined 
by  his  wife. 

While  at  Natchez,  the  long  summer  days  permitted  the 
drawing  of  birds  as  well  as  the  teaching,  which  was  con- 
scientiously performed,  and  the  hope  of  eventually  pub- 
lishing grew  stronger.  In  the  autumn  of  this  year  (1822), 
Audubon  met  a  portrait  painter  named  John  Stecn  or 
Stein,  from  Washington,  Pa.,  and  thus  writes,  December, 
1822:  "  He  gave  me  the  first  lesson  in  painting  in  oils 
I  ever  took  in  my  life ;  it  was  a  copy  of  an  Otter  from 
one  of  my  water-colors.  Together  we  painted  a  full  length 
portrait  of  Pere  Antonio,  which  was  sent  to  Havana." 

January,  1823,  brought  fresh  changes.  Mrs.  Audubon, 
with  her  son  John,  went  to  Mrs.  Percy's  plantation,  Beech- 
woods,  to  teach  not  only  Marguerite  Percy,  but  also  the 
daughters  of  the  owners  of  the  neighboring  plantations, 
and  Audubon,  with  Victor  and  Mr.  Steen,  started  on  a  tour 
of  the  Sout.ie.  n  States  in  a  dearborn,  intending  to  paint 
for  their  support.  The  journal  says,  March,  1823;  "  I  re- 
gretted deeply  leaving  my  Natchez  friends,  especially 
Charles  Carr6  and  Dr.  Provan.  The  many  birds  I  had 
collected  to  take  to  France  I  made  free;  some  of  the 
doves  had  beccme  so  fond  of  me  that  I  was  oblig'^'^  to 


cliaj 

boy-. 

then: 

same 

finaJJj 

vi]Je 

ist.     I 

remain 

Victor 

Very  CO 

always 

botJi   w 


AUDUBON 


53 


chase  them  to  the  woods,  fearing  the  wickedness  of  the 
boys,  who  would,  no  doubt,  have  with  pleasure  destroyed 
them."      So   it  would    seem    boys    then   were    much    the 
same  as  now.     Jackson  and  other  places  were  visited,  and 
finally  New  Orleans,  whence  Audubon  started  for  Louis- 
ville with   Victor,    May    i.     The  whole   of  this   summer 
(1823)  was  one  of  enjoyment  in  many  ways  to  the  natural- 
ist.    He  felt  his  wife  was  in  a  delightful  home  (where  she 
remained    many  years),   beloved   by   those   around    her; 
Victor  now  was    nearly  fourteen,  handsome,  strong,    and 
very  companionable,  old  for  his  years,  and  as  his  father  was 
always  young  for  his,  they  were  good  comrades,  and  till 
both   were    attacked    by   yellow   fever,   the    days    passed 
smoothly   on.     Nursed  through  this   malady  by  the  ever 
devoted  wife  and  mother,  who  had  come  to  them  at  once 
on  hearing  they  were  ill,  some  time  was  spent  at  the  Beech- 
woods  to  recuperate,  and  on  October   i,   1823,  Audubon 
with  Victor  departed  for  Kentucky  by  boat.     The  water 
being  low,  their  progress  was  greatly  delayed ;  he  became 
impatient  and  at  Trinity  left  the  boat  with  his  son  and  two 
gentlemen,  and  walked  to  Louisville.     This  walk,  of  which 
wc  have  a  full  published  account  ^  began  on  October  1 5,  and 
on  the  2 1  St  they  reached  Green  River,  when  Victor  becom- 
ing weary,  the  remaining   distance  was    performed    in  a 
wagon.     It  was  on  this  journey,  which  Audubon  under- 
took fearing,  so  he   says,  that  he  should  not  have  enough 
money  to   provide  for  himself  and  Victor  in    Louisville 
beyond  a  few  weeks,  that  he  relates  this  incident:    "The 
squatter  had  a  Black  Wolf,  perfectly  gentle,  and  completely 
under  the  control  of  his  master ;    I  put  my  hand  in  my 
pocket  and  took  out  a  hundred-dollar  bill,  which  I  offered 
for  it,  but  it  was  refused.     I  respected  the  man   for   his 
attachment  to  the  wolf,  for  I  doubted  if  he  had  ever  seen 
a  hundred  dollars  before." 
Louisville  was  speedily  quitted  for  Shippingport,  where 

1  See  Episode :  "  A  Tough  Walk  for  a  Youth.'' 


54 


AUDUBON 


Audubon  engaged  a  room  for  Victor  and  himself,  and 
painted  all  winter  (1823-24)  at  birds,  landscapes,  por- 
traits, and  even  signs. 

Shippingport  was  then  a  small  village  with  mill':,  and 
was  largely  owned  by  the  Tarascons  and  Berthouds,  the 
latter  living  in  the  mansion  of  the  place,  and  possessed  of 
a  very  beautiful  garden.  Steamers  and  boats  for  the  river 
traffic  were  built  here,  and  it  was  a  stirring  place  for  its 
size,  situated  on  the  Falls  of  the  Ohio,  about  two  miles 
from  Louisville  then,  but  now  part  of  that  city.  With 
forests  and  river  to  solace  his  anxieties,  another  season  was 
passed  by  the  man  whose  whole  energies  were  now  bent 
on  placing  his  work  before  the  best  judges  in  Europe. 
This  winter  too,  he  lost  one  of  his  best  and  dearest  friends, 
Madame  Berthoud;  how  he  felt  this  parting  his  own  words 
best  tell:  "January  20,  1824.  I  arose  this  morning  by 
that  transparent  light  which  is  the  effect  of  the  moon  be- 
fore dawn,  and  saw  Dr.  Middleton  passing  at  full  gallop 
towards  the  white  house ;  I  followed  —  alas  !  my  old  friend 
was  dead !  What  a  void  in  the  world  for  me !  I  was 
silent ;  many  tears  fell  from  my  eyes,  accustomed  to  sor- 
row. It  was  impossible  for  me  to  work;  my  heart,  restless, 
moved  from  point  to  point  all  round  the  compass  of  my 
life.  Ah,  Lucy  !  what  have  I  felt  to-day !  how  can  I  bear 
the  loss  of  our  truest  friend?  This  has  been  a  sad  day, 
most  truly;  I  have  spent  it  thinking,  thinking,  learning, 
weighing  my  thoughts,  and  quite  sick  of  life.  I  wished  I 
had  been  as  quiet  as  my  venerable  friend,  as  she  lay  for 
the  last  time  in  her  room." 

As  I  turn  over  the  pages  of  this  volume  ^  from  which 
only  a  few  extracts  have  been  taken,  well  do  I  understand 
the  mental  suffering  of  which  it  tells  so  constantly.  Pov- 
erty for  himself,  Audubon  did  not  mind,  but  for  those  he 
loved  it  was  a  great  and  bitter  trial  to  him.  His  keenly 
sensitive  nature  was  wounded  on  every  hand ;  no  one  but 
^  The  before-mentioned  journal,  1822-24. 


his 
him 
of  u 


SOtlJj 

o 


Ciiiv 

COljJc 

taiigl; 
tercd 
fellow 
h/nisci 
nor  du 
end,  A 
of  thos 
years  c 
plants  s 
been  ha 
JouniaJ, 
it  the  vc 
and  the  j 
to  leave  I 

Karly 
P^iladelp 
Mr.  BcrtH 
f^'ded  to 
I'eale  or 
both  as  ar 
^•■oni  Aprf 
'narked  b> 

'  (With  sii. 
p.  r,3.  * 

"^  Prince  of 
'"  '^^arch,  IS. 

^""'<-'nclrUure 
''^^'  Academy 

f "   '^rnithob, 
^ynopsis^"  of 


AUDUBON 


55 


his  wife,  from  whom  he  was  now  absent,  had  any  faith  in 
him  or  his  genius.  He  never  became  indifferent,  as  most 
of  us  do,  to  the  coldness  of  those  who  had  in  earlier  days 
souL,dit  him,  not  for  what  he  was,  but  for  what  he  had. 
Chivah'ous,  generous,  and  courteous  to  his  heart's  core,  he 
could  not  beheve  others  less  so,  till  painful  experiences 
taught  him;  then  he  was  grieved,  hurt,  but  never  imbit- 
tered ;  and  more  marvellous  yet,  with  his  faith  in  his 
fellows  as  strong  as  ever,  again  and  again  he  subjected 
himself  to  the  same  treatment.  This  was  not  stupidity, 
nor  dulncss  of  perception  ;  it  was  that  always,  even  to  the 
enil,  Audubon  kept  the  freshness  of  childhood  ;  he  was  one 
of  those  who  had  "  the  secret  of  youth;  "  he  was  "  old  in 
years  only,  his  heart  was  young.  The  earth  was  fair; 
plants  still  bloomed,  and  birds  still  sang  for  him."  ^  It  has 
been  hard  for  me  to  keep  from  copying  much  from  this 
journal,  but  I  have  felt  it  too  sacred.  Some  would  see  in 
it  the  very  heart  of  the  man  who  wrote  it,  but  to  others  — 
and  the  greater  number  —  it  would  be,  as  I  have  decided 
to  leave  it,  a  sealed  book. 

h^'irly  in  March,  1824,  Audubon  left  Shippingport  for 
Philadelphia,  Victor  remaining  in  the  counting-house  of 
Mr.  Herthoud.  He  had  some  money,  with  which  he  de- 
cided to  take  lessons  in  painting  either  from  Rembrandt 
Peale  or  Thomas  Sully.  He  much  preferred  the  latter 
both  as  artist  and  friend,  and  he  remained  in  Philadelphia 
from  April  until  August  of  the  same  year.  This  visit  was 
marked  by  his  introduction  to  Charles  Lucien  Bonaparte  ^ 


M With  slight  alterations)  from  "Bird  Life,"  by  F.  M.  Chapman,  1897, 

P-I3- 

'^  Prince  of  Musignano,  and  subsequently  a  distinguished  ornithologist. 
In  March,  1824,  lionaparte  was  just  publishing  his  "Observations  on  the 
Nomenclature  ot  Wilson's  Ornithology,"  which  ran  through  the  "  Journal  of 
the  Academy  of  Natural  Sciences,"  of  Philadeljjhia,  from  April  5,  1S24,  to 
Aug.  25,  1825,  in  five  parts.  This  'vas  preliminary  to  ]!ona]>arte's  "Ameri- 
can Ornithology"  which  appeared  in  four  quarto  vols.,  1S25-33,  to  his 
"  Synopsis,"  of  1828,  and  to  his  "  Comparative  List,"  of  1838.  —  E.  C. 


56 


AUDUBON 


and  Edward  Harris,  both  of  whom  became  Hfc-long  friends, 
especially  Mr.  Harris,  with  whom  he  corresponded  fre- 
quently when  they  were  separated,  and  with  whom  he 
made  many  journeys,  the  most  prolonged  and  important 
being  that  to  the  Yellowstone  in  1843.  To  copy  again: 
"April  10,  1824.  I  was  introduced  to  the  son  of  L,ucien 
Bonaparte,  nephew  of  Napoleon,  a  great  ornithologist,  I 
was  told.  He  remained  two  hours,  went  out,  and  returned 
with  two  Italian  gentlemen,  and  their  comments  made  me 
very  contented."  That  evening  he  was  taken  to  the  Phil- 
osophical Academy^  where  the  drawings  were  greatly 
admired,  and  their  author  says :  "  /  do  not  think  much  of 
them  except  when  in  the  very  act  of  drawing  them."  At 
this  meeting  Mr.  George  Ord  met  Audubon  and  objected 
strongly  to  the  birds  and  plants  being  drawn  together, 
"  but  spoke  well  of  them  otherwise."  Mr.  Ord  was  one-of 
those  (of  the  very  few,  I  might  say)  who  disliked  the 
naturalist  from  first  to  last,^  who  was  perhaps,  his  bitterest 
enemy.  In  later  years  Dr.  John  Bachman  resented  his 
conduct,  and  wrote  a  very  trenchant  reply  ^  to  one  of  Mr. 
Ord's  published  articles  about  Audubon ;  but  there  is  no 
word  of  anger  anywhere  in  the  letters  or  journals,  only  of 
regret  or  pain.* 

Of  Mr.  Harris  we  find  this:  "July  12,  1824.  I  drew  for 
Mr.  Fairman  a  small  grouse  to  be  put  on  a  bank-note  be- 
longing to  the  State  of  New-Jersey ;  this  procured  me  the 
acquaintance  of  a  young  man  named  Edward  Harris  of 
Moorestown,  an  ornithologist,  who  told  me  he  had  seen 

^  Probably  the  Academy  of  Natural  Sciences. 

"^  Orel  had  edited  the  posthumous  vols.  viii.  and  ix.  of  "  Wilson's  Orni- 
thology," which  appeared  in  1814;  and  in  1824  was  engaged  upon  that  edition 
of  Wilson  which  was  published  in  3  vols.  8vo,  in  1828-29,  with  a  folio  atlas 
of  76  plates.  This  is  probably  enough  to  account  for  his  attitude  toward 
Audubon.  —  E.  C. 

*  "  DefeT'ce  of  Audubon,"  by  John  Bachman.  "  Bucks  Co.  Intelligencer," 
183s,  and  other  papers. 

*  Almost  the  only  other  enemy  Audubon  appears  to  have  ever  had  in 
public  print  was  Charles  Waterton,  who  vehemently  assailed  him  in  "  Lou- 


AUDUBON 


57 


some  English  Snipes  ^  within  a  few  days,  and  that  they  bred 
in  the  marshes  about  him."  And  also:  "July  19th. 
Young  Harris,  God  bless  him,  looked  at  the  drawings  I 
had  for  sale,  and  said  he  would  take  them  all,  at  my  prices. 
I  would  have  kissed  him,  but  that  it  is  not  the  custom  in 
this  icy  city." 

Other  friends  were  made  here,  almost  as  valuable  as  Mr. 
Harris,  though  not  as  well  loved,  for  these  two  were  truly 
congenial  souls,  who  never  wearied  of  each  other,  and 
between  whom  there  was  never  a  shadow  of  difference. 
Thomas  Sully,  the  artist,  Dr.   Richard   Harlan,^  Reuben 


don's  Magazine  of  Natural  History,"  vi.  1833,  pp.  215-218,  and  vii.,  1S34, 
pp.  66-74.  Audubon  was  warmly  defended  by  his  son  Victor  in  the  same 
magazine,  vi.  1833,  p.  369,  and  at  greater  length  by  "  R.  15.,"  ibid.,  pp.  369- 
372.  Dr.  Coues  characterizes  Waterton's  attack  as  "flippant  and  super- 
cilious animadversion,"  in  "  Birds  of  the  Colorado  Valley,"  1S7S,  p.  622. 

The  present  is  hardly  the  occasion  to  bring  up  the  countless  reviews  and 
notices  of  Audubon's  published  life-work ;  but  a  few  references  I  have  at 
hand  may  be  given.  One  of  the  earliest,  if  not  the  first,  appeared  in  the 
"Edinburgh  Journal  of  Science,"  vi.  p.  184  (1S27).  In  1828,  Audubon  him- 
self published  "An  Account  of  the  Method  of  Drawing  Birds,"  etc.,  in  the 
same  Journal,  viii.,  pp.  48-54.  The  "  Report  of  a  Committee  appointed 
by  the  Lyceum  of  Natural  History  of  New  York  to  examine  the  splendid 
work  of  Mr.  Audubon,"  etc.,  appeared  in  "  Silliman's  Joumal,"xvi.,  1829,  pp. 
353. 354-  H's  friend  William  Swainson  puljjished  some  highly  commendatory 
and  justly  appreciative  articles  on  the  same  sul)ject  in  "  Loudon's  Magazine," 
i.,  1S29,  pp.  43-52,  and  in  the  "  Edinburgh  New  Philosophical  Journal,"  x., 
'S31,  pp.  l)\l-y:fl,  under  the  pseudonym  "  Ornithophilus."  Another  anony- 
mous review,  higiily  laudatory,  appeared  in  the  same  Journal,  xviii.,  1834,  pp. 
131-144.  Dr.  John  Bachman  defended  the  truthfulness  of  Audubon's  draw- 
ings in  the  "Journal  of  the  Boston  Society  of  Natural  History,"  i.  1834,  pp. 
15-31.  One  of  the  most  extended  notices  appeared  anonymously  in  the 
''North  American  Review,"  July,  1835,  pp.  i94-2_<-  ;  and  another  signed  "  B," 
in  "Loudon's  Magazine,"  viii.,  1835,  pp.  184-190.  In  (Jermany,  "  Isis  von 
Oken"  contained  others,  xxx.,  1S37,  pp.  922-928,  xxxv.,  1842,  pp.  157,  158; 
and  xxxvii.,  iS.h,  pp.  713-718.  "  Silliman's  Journal"  again  reviewed  the 
work  in  xlii.,  1S42,  pp.  130-136.  — E.  C. 

'  That  is  the  sp  jcies  now  known  as  Wilson's  Snipe,  GiilUnago  delicata. 

°  Dr.  Richard  1  larlan  is  the  author  of  the  well-known  "  Fauna  Americana," 
8vo,  Philadelphia,  1825,  and  of  many  scientific  papers.  Audubon  dedicated 
to  him  the  Black  Warrior,  FaUo  harlani,  a  large,  dark  hawk  of  the  genus 
l^nUo,  shot  at  St.  Francisville,  La.,  Nov.  18,  1829. 


58 


AUDUBON 


Haines,  Lc  Sueur,^  Dr.  Mease,  and  many  another  honored 
name  might  be  given. 

In  August  Philadelphia  was  quitted,  and  another  period 
of  travel  in  search  of  birds  was  begun.  Of  this  next  year, 
1825,  no  record  whatever  can  be  found  besides  the  episodes 
of  "Niagara"  and  "  Meadville,"  and  two  detached  pages 
of  journal.  Audubon  went  to  New  York,  up  the  Hudson, 
along  the  Great  Lakes,  then  to  Pittsburg,  and  finally  to 
Bayou  Sara,  where,  having  decided  to  go  to  England,  he 
made  up  his  mind  to  resume  at  once  his  classes  in  drawing, 
music,  and  dancing,  to  make  money  for  the  liuropean  jour- 
ney, for  which  he  never  ceased  to  accumulate  pictures  of  his 
beloved  birds.  Reaching  Bayou  Sara  in  December,  1825, 
this  work  at  once  began  by  giving  lessons  in  dancing  to 
the  young  ladies  under  my  grandmother's  care;  and  Judge 
Randolph,  a  near  neighbor,  had  his  sons  take  lessons  in 
fencing.  In  these  branches  Audubon  was  so  successful 
that  the  residents  of  the  village  of  VVoodvillc,  fifteen  miles 
distant,  engaged  him  for  Friday  and  Saturday  of  each 
week,  and  here  he  had  over  sixty  pupils.  From  the  ac- 
count of  this  class  I  take  the  following:  "I  marched  to 
the  hall  with  my  violin  under  my  arm,  bowed  to  the  com- 
pany assembled,  tuned  my  violin;  played  a  cotillon,  and 
began  my  lesson  by  placing  the  gentlemen  in  a  line.  Oh! 
patience  support  me  !  how  I  labored  before  I  could  pro- 
mote the  first  appearance  of  elegance  or  ease  of  motion; 
in  doing  this  I  first  broke  my  bow,  and  then  my  violin;  I 
then  took  the  ladies  and  made  them  take  steps,  as  I  sang 
in  time  to  accompany  their  movements." 

These  lessops  continued  three  months,  and  were  in 
every  sense  a  success,  Audubon    realizing   about   $2000 

'  Charles  Alexandre  Le  Sueur,  1778-1846,  distinguished  French  natu- 
ralist. Best  biography  in  Youman's  "  Pioneers  of  Science  in  America," 
8vo,  N.  Y.,  1896,  pp.  128-139,  with  portrait.  The  same  volume  contains  a 
biographical  sketch  of  Audubon,  pp.  1 52-166,  with  portrait  after  the  oil 
painting  by  George  P.  A.  Healy,  belonging  to  the  Boston  Society  of  Natural 
History.  —  E.  C. 


m 


from 

of  tJi 

v\'ai-d 

other 

packe, 

natura 

Kngiar 

The 

^vith  till 

tJestrucl 

of  one  c 

and  are 

pass  on  i 

■^udubor 

His  tin 

of  Amevk 


AUDUBON 


59 


from  his  winter's  work.  With  this,  and  the  greater  part 
of  the  savings  of  his  wife,  which  she  had  hoarded  to  for- 
ward this  journey,  so  long  the  goal  of  their  hopes,  an- 
other farewell  was  taken,  the  many  valued  drawings 
packed  up,  and  on  April  26,  1826,  the  vessel  with  the 
naturalist  and  his  precious  freight  left  New  Orleans  for 
England. 

The  journals  from  this  date,  until  May  i,  1829,  are  kept 
with  the  usual  regularity,  and  fortunately  have  escaped  the 
destruction  which  has  befallen  earlier  volumes.  They  tell 
of  one  of  the  most  interesting  periods  of  Audubon's  life, 
and  are  given  beyond,  —  not  entire,  yet  so  fully  that  I 
pass  on  at  once  to  the  last  date  they  contain,  which  marks 
Audubon's  return  to  America,  May  5,  1829. 

His  time  abroad  had  seen  the  publication  of  the  "  Birds 
of  America"^  successfully  begun,  had  procured  him  sub- 

1  Of  the  great  folios,  parts  i.-v.,  containing  plates  1-25,  were  originally 
published  at  successive  dates  (not  ascertained)  in  1827  ;  parts  vi.-x.,  plates 
26-50,  appeared  in  the  course  of  1828,  — all  in  London.  The  whole  work 
was  completed  in  1838;  it  is  supposed  to  have  been  issued  in  87  parts  of 
S  plates  each,  making  the  actual  total  of  435  plates,  giving  1065  figures  of 
birds.  On  the  completion  of  the  series,  the  plates  were  to  be  bound 
in  4  vols.  Vol.  1.,  pll.  i-ioo,  1827-30;  vol.  ii.,  pU.  101-200,  1831-34; 
vol.  iii.,  pll.  201-300,  1834-35;  vol.  iv.,  pll.  301-435,  1835-38  (com- 
pleted  June  30).  These  folios  had  no  text  except  the  title-leaf  of  each 
volume.  The  original  price  was  two  guineas  a  part ;  a  complete  copy  is  now 
worth  $1,500  to  52,000,  according  to  condition  of  binding,  etc.,  and  is  scarce 
at  any  price.  The  text  to  the  plates  appeared  under  the  different  title  of 
"Ornithological  Biography,"  in  5  large  8vo  volumes,  Edinburgh,  1S31-39; 
vol.  i.,  1S31  ;  vol.  ii.,  1834;  vol.  iii.,  1835;  vol.  iv.,  1838;  vol.  v.,  1839.  In 
I840--44,  the  work  reappeared  in  octavo,  text  and  plates  together,  under 
the  original  title  of  "Birds  of  America;"  the  text  somewhat  modified 
by  the  omission  of  the  "  Delineations  of  American  Scenery  and  Manners," 
the  addition  of  some  new  matter  acquired  after  1839,  and  change  in  the 
names  of  many  species  to  agree  with  the  nomenclature  of  Audubon's 
Synopsis  of  1839 ;  the  plates  reduced  by  the  camera  lucida,  rearranged  and 
renumbered,  making  500  in  all.  The  two  original  works,  thus  put  together 
and  modified,  became  the  first  octavo  edition  called  "  Birds  of  America," 
issued  in  100  parts,  to  be  bound  in  7  volumes,  1840-44.  There  have  been 
various  subsequent  issues,  partial  or  complete,  upon  which  I  cannot  here 
enlarge.    For    full  bibliographical    data    see   Dr.   Coues'   "Birds  of    the 


6o 


AUDUBON 


scribcrs  enough  to  warrant  his  continuing  the  vast  under- 
taking, and  had  given  him  many  friends.  His  object  now 
was  to  make  drawings  of  birds  which  he  had  not  yet  figured 
for  the  completion  of  his  work,  and  then  to  take  his  wife, 
and  possibly  his  sons  with  him  to  England.  During  these 
years  Mrs.  Audubon  was  latterly  alone,  as  John  had  taken 
a  position  with  Victor  and  was  in  Louisville.  Victor, 
meantime,  had  worked  steadily  and  faithfully,  and  had 
earned  for  himself  a  position  and  a  salary  far  beyond  that 
of  most  young  men  of  his  age.  Both  parents  relied  on 
him  to  an  extent  that  is  proof  in  itself  of  his  unusual 
ability;  these  words  in  a  letter  from  his  father,  dated 
London,  Dec.  23,  1828,  "  Victor's  letters  to  me  are  highly 
interesting,  full  of  candor,  sentiment,  and  sound  judgment, 
and  I  am  very  proud  of  him,"  are  certainly  testimony 
worth  having.  As  the  years  went  on  both  sons  assisted 
their  father  in  every  way,  and  to  an  extent  that  the 
world  has  never  recognized. 

Great  as  was  Audubon's  wish  to  proceed  without  delay 
to  Louisiana,  he  felt  it  due  to  his  subscribers  to  get  to 
work  at  once,  and  wrote  to  his  wife  under  date  of  New 
York,  May  10,  1829:  "I  have  landed  here  from  on  board 
the  packet  ship  Columbia  after  an  agreeable  passage  of 
thirty-five  days  from  Portsmouth,  I  have  come  to  America 
to  remain  as  long  as  consistent  with  the  safety  of  the 
continuation  of  my  publication  in  London  without  my 
personal  presence.  According  to  future  circumstances 
I  shall  return  to  England  on  the  ist  of  October  next,  or, 
if  possible,  not  until  April,  1 830.  I  wish  to  employ  and 
devote  every  moment  of  my  sojourn  in  America  to  draw- 
ing such  birds  and  plants  as  I  think  necessary  to  enable 
me  to  give  my  publication  throughout  the  degree  of  per- 
fection that  I  am  told  exists  in  that  portion  already  pub- 
lished.    I  have  left  my  business  going  on  quite  well;  my 

Colorado  Valley,"  Appendix,  1878,  pp.  612,  618,  625,  629,  644,  661,  666,  669 
and  686.  —  E.  C. 


engr; 

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September 
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"3me  ^^■\\\  i,^  ,^ 

,f";i"f>on  shot' 
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°f  Science,"  ,863 

See  previous 
|:;57,  and  plate. 


'7°;^"dubon 
^f  actually 
See  Ep: 


isodes 


AUDUBON 


6i 


engraver  ^  has  in  his  hands  all  the  drawings  wanted  to 
complete  this  present  year,  and  those  necessary  to  form 
the  first  number  of  next  year.  I  have  finished  the  two 
first  years  of  publication,  the  two  most  difficult  years  to 
be  encountered."  To  Victor  he  writes  from  Camden, 
N.  J.,  July  lo,  1829:  "I  shall  this  year  have  issued  ten 
numbers,  each  containing  five  plates,  making  in  all  fifty .'^ 
I  cannot  publish  more  than  five  numbers  annually,  be- 
cause it  would  make  too  heavy  an  expense  to  my  sub- 
scribers, and  indeed  require  more  workmen  than  I  could 
find  in  London.  The  work  when  finished  will  contain 
eighty  numbers,^  therefore  I  have  seventy  to  issue,  which 
will  take  fourteen  years  more.  It  is  a  long  time  to  look 
forward  to,  but  it  cannot  be  helped.  I  think  I  am 
doing  well ;  I  have  now  one  hundred  and  forty-four 
subscribers." 

All  this  summer  and  early  fall,  until  October  loth, 
Audubon  spent  in  the  neighborhood  of  New  Jersey  and 
Pennsylvania,  working  as  few  can  work,  four  hours  con- 
tinuing to  be  his  allowance  for  sleep.  Six  weeks  in 
September  and  October  were  spent  in  the  Great  Pine 
Swamp,  or  Forest,*  as  he  called  it,  his  permanent  lodgings 
being  at  Camden,  N.  J.  Here  he  writes,  October  11,1829: 
"  I  am  at  work  and  have  done  much,  but  I  wish  I  had 
eight  pairs  of  hands,  and  another  body  to  shoot  the  speci- 
mens;  still  I  am  delighted  at  what  I  have    accumulated 


'  Referring  to  ^^r.  Robert  Havell,  of  No.  77  Oxford  St.,  London.  His 
name  will  be  recalled  in  connection  with  Sterna  havcllii,  the  Tern  which 
Auduhon  shot  at  New  Orleans  in  1820,  and  dedicated  to  his  engraver  in 
"Orn.  Biogr."  v.,  1839,  p.  122,  "  B.  Amer.,"  Svo,  vii.,  1844,  p.  103,  pi.  434.  It 
i«  the  winter  plumage  of  the  bird  Nuttall  called  S.forsteri  in  his  "  Manual," 
ii.,  1834,  p.  274.  See  Coues,  "  Proceedings  of  the  Philadelphia  Academy 
of  Science,"  1862,  p.  543.  — E.  C. 

^  See  previous  note  on  p.  59,  where  it  is  said  that  plates  1-25  appeared 
In  18:7,  and  plates  26-50  la  1S2S  —  in  attestation  of  which  the  above  words  to 
Victor  Audubon  become  important.  —  E.  C. 

^  It  actually  ran  to  87  numbers,  as  stated  in  a  previous  note. 

*  See  Episodes  "  Great  Egg  Harbor  "  and  "  Great  Pine  Swamp." 


62 


AUDUBON 


in  drawings  this  season.  Forty-two  drawings  in  four 
months,  eleven  large,  eleven  middle  size,  and  tvvent}--two 
small,  comprising  ninety-five  birds,  from  Eagles  down- 
wards, with  plants,  nests,  flowers,  and  sixty  different  kinds 
of  eggs.  I  live  alone,  see  scarcely  any  one,  besides  those 
belonging  to  the  house  where  I  lodge.  I  rise  long  before 
day  and  work  till  nightfall,  when  I  take  a  walk,  and  to  bed. 

"  I  returned  yesterday  from  Mauch  Chunk  ;  after  all,  there 
is  nothing  perfect  but  primitivencss,  and  my  efforts  at  copy- 
ing nature,  like  all  other  things  attempted  by  us  poor  mor- 
tals, fall  far  short  of  the  originals.  Few  better  than  myself 
can  appreciate  this  with  more  despondency  than  I  do." 

Very  shortly  after  this  date  Audubon  left  for  Louisiana, 
crossed  the  Allcghanies  to  Pittsburg,  down  the  Ohio  by 
boat  to  Louisville,  where  he  saw  Victor  and  John.     "  Dear 
boys!"  he  says;  "I  had  not  seen  Victor  for  nearly  five 
years,  and  so  much  had  he  changed  I  hardly  knew  him,  but 
he  recognized  me  at  once.     Johnny  too  had  much  grown 
and  improved."     Remaining  with  his  sons  a  few  days,  he 
again  took  the  boat  for  Bayou  Sara,  where  he  landed  in 
the  middle  of  the  night.     The  journal  says:  "  It  was  dark, 
sultry,  and  I  was  quite  alone.     I  was  aware  yellow  fever 
was   still    raging   at   St.    Francisville,  but   walked   thitlier 
to  procure   a   horse.     Being  only  a  mile  distant,  I  soon 
reached  it,  and  entered  the  open  door  of  a  house  I  know 
to    be    an    inn ;   all  was    dark    and    silent.      I   called   and 
knocked  in  vain,  it  was  the  abode  of  Death  alone !     The 
air   was   putrid ;  I    went  to    another  house,  another,  and 
another;   everywhere  the    same    state  of  things    existed; 
doors   and   windows   were   all    open,  but   the    living  had 
fled.     Finally  I  reached  the  home  of  Mr.  Nubling,  whom 
I  knew.     He  welcomed  me,  and  lent  me   his    horse,  and 
I  went  off  at  a  gallop.     It  was  so  dark  that  I  soon  lost 
my  way,  but  I  cared  not,  I  was  about  to  rejoin  my  wife, 
I  was  in  the  woods,  the  woods  of  Louisiana,  my  heart  was 
bursting  with  joy !     The  first  glimpse  of  dawn  set  me  on 


my  , 

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"^^^n  Piain   tl 
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AUDUBON 


63 


my  road,  at  six  o'clock  I  was  at  Mr.  Johnson's  house ;  1 
a  servant  took  the  liorsc,  I  went  at  once  to  my  wife's 
apartment;  her  door  was  ajar,  already  she  was  dressed 
and  sitting  by  her  piano,  on  which  a  young  lady  was 
playinij.  I  pronounced  her  name  gently,  she  saw  me, 
and  the  next  moment  I  held  her  in  my  arms.  Her  emotion 
was  so  great  I  feared  I  had  acted  rashly,  but  tears  relieved 
our  hearts,  on-ce  more  we  were  together." 

Audubon  remained  in  Louisiana  with  his  wife  till  Janu- 
ary, 1830,  when  together  they  went  to  Louisville,  Wash- 
ington, Philadelphia,  and  New  York,  whence  they  sailed 
for  England  in  April.  All  his  former  friends  welcomed 
them  on  their  arrival,  and  the  kindness  the  naturalist  had 
received  on  his  first  visit  was  continued  to  his  wife  as  well 
as  himself.  Finding  many  subscribers  had  not  paid,  and 
others  had  lapsed,  he  again  painted  numerous  pictures  for 
sale,  and  journeyed  hither  and  yon  for  new  subscribers 
as  well  as  to  make  collections. 

Mrs.  Audubon,  meanwhile,  had  taken  lodgings  in  Lon- 
don, but  that  city  being  no  more  to  her  taste  than  to  her 
husband's,  she  joined  him,  and  they  travelled  together 
till  October,  when  to  Audubon's  joy  he  found  himself 
at  his  old  lodgings  at  26  George  St.,  Edinburgh,  where 
he  felt  truly  at  home  with  Mrs.  Dickie  ;  and  here  he  began 
the  "  Ornithological  Biography,"  with  many  misgivings, 
as  the  journal  bears  witness:  "Oct.  16,  1830.  I  know 
that  I  am  a  poor  writer,  that  I  scarcely  can  manage  to 
scribble  a  tolerable  English  letter,  and  not  a  much  better 
one  in  French,  though  that  is  easier  to  me.  I  know  I  am 
not  a  scholar,  but  meantime  I  am  aware  that  no  man 
living  knows  better  than  I  do  the  habits  of  our  birds ;  no 
man  living  has  studied  them  as  much  as  I  have  done,  and 
with  the  assistance  of  my  old  journals  and  memorandum- 
books  which  were  written  on  the  spot,  I  can  at  least  put 
down  plain  truths,  which  may  be  useful  and  perhaps 
^  Mr.  Garrett  Johnson,  where  Mrs.  Audubon  was  then  teaching. 


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AUDUBON 


interesting,  so  I  shall  set  to  at  once.  I  cannot,  how- 
ever, give  scientific  descriptions,  and  here  must  have 
assistance." 

His  choice  of  an  assistant  would  have  been  his  friend 
Mr.  William  Swainson,  but  this  could  not  be  arranged, 
and  Mr.  James  Wiison  recommended  Mr.  William  Mac- 
Gillivray.^  Of  this  gentleman  Mr.  D.  G.  Elliot  says:^ 
"  No  better  or  more  fortunate  choice  could  have  been 
made.  Audubon  worked  incessantly,  MacGillivray  keep- 
ing abreast  of  him,  and  Mrs.  Audubon  re  wrote  the  entire 
manuscript  to  send  to  America,  and  secu-e  the  copyright 
there."  The  happy  result  of  this  association  of  two  great 
men,  so  different  in  most  respects  as  Audubon  and  Mac- 
Gillivray, is  characterized  by  Dr.  Coues  in  the  following 
terms  ("Key  to  North  American  Birds,"  2d  ed.,  1884, 
p.  xxii)  :  "  Vivid  and  ardent  was  his  genius,  matchless  he 
was  both  with  pen  and  pencil  in  giving  life  and  spirit  to 
the  beautiful  objects  he  delineated  v/ith  passionate  love; 
but  there  was  a  strong  and  patient  worker  by  his  side, — 
William  MacGillivray,  the  countryman  of  Wilson,  destined 
to  lend  the  sturdy  Scotch  fibre  to  an  Audubonian  epoch.^ 
The  brilliant  French-American  Naturalist  was  little  of  a 
'  scientist.*  Of  his  work  the  magical  beauties  of  form  and 
color  and  movement  are  all  his;  his  page  is  redolent  of 
Nature's  fragrance ;  but  MacGillivray's  are  the  bone  and 
sinew,  the  hidden  anatomical  parts  beneath  the  lovely 
face,  the  nomenclature,  the  classification,  —  in  a  word,  the 
technicalities  of  the  science." 


'  There  has  been  much  question  as  to  the  spelling  of  MacGillivray's 
name,  Professor  Newton  and  most  others  writing  it  Macgillivray,  but  in  the 
autograph  letters  we  own  the  capital  "  G  "  is  always  used. 

2  Address  at  the  special  meeting  of  the  New  York  Academy  of  Sciences, 
April  26,  1893. 

'  Referring  to  one  of  the  six  "epochs"  into  which,  in  the  same  work, 
Dr.  Coues  divided  the  progress  of  Ameri'^an  Ornithology.  His  "Audubon 
epoch"  extends  from  1824  to  1853,  and  one  of  the  four  periods  into  whicli 
this  epoch  is  divided  is  the  "  Audubonian  period,"  1834-1853. 


MRS.    AUDUBON 


L- 


I'   ... 


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than 
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several 

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5«  volumes  nol 

,  'Thecompl] 

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"■«  te,t   to    p] 

^fe  said  to  bed 

Audubon  wrol 
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^01.  I. . 


iiiiiiii 


AUDUBON 


65 


Though  somewhat  discouraged  at  finding  that  no  less 
than  three  editions  of  Alexander  Wilson's  "American 
Ornithology  "  were  about  to  be  published,  Audubon  went 
bravely  on.  My  grandmother  wrote  to  her  sons :  "  Noth- 
ing is  heard, but  the  steady  movement  of  the  pen;  your 
father  is  up  and  at  work  before  dawn,  and  writes  without 
ceasing  all  day.  Mr.  MacGillivray  breakfasts  at  nine  each 
morning,  attends  the  Museum  four  days  in  the  week,  has 
several  works  on  hand  besides  ours,  and  is  moreover 
engaged  as  a  lecturer  in  a  new  seminary  on  botany  and 
natural  history.  His  own  work*  progresses  slowly,  but 
surely,  for  he  writes  until  far  into  the  night." 

The  first  volume  of  "  Ornithological  Biography  "  was  fin- 
ished, but  no  publisher  could  be  found  to  take  it,  so 
Audubon  published  it  himself  in  March,  183 1.*  During 
this  winter  an  agreement  had  been  made  with  Mr.  J.  B. 
Kidd  to  copy  some  of  the  birds,  put  in  backgrounds,  sell 
them,  and  divide  the  proceeds.  Eight  were  finished  and 
sold  immediately,  and  the  agreement  continued  till  May, 
I,  1 83 1,  when  Audubon  was  so  annoyed  by  Mr.  Kidd's 
lack  of  industry  that  the  copying  was  discontinued.  Per- 
sonally, I  have  no  doubt  that  many  of  the  paintings  which 
are  said  to  be  by  Audubon  are  these  copies.  They  are 
alien  mill-board,  —  a  material,  however,  which  grandfather 

*  Descriptions  of  the  Rapacious  Birds  of  Great  Britain.  By  William 
MacGillivray,  A.  M.,  Edinburgh,  1836,  i  vol.  small  8vo.  This  valuable  treatise 
is  dedicated  "  To  John  James  Audubon,  in  admiration  of  his  talents  as  an 
ornithologist,  and  in  gratitude  for  many  acts  of  friendship."  Mr.  Mac- 
Gillivray also  had  then  in  preparation  or  contemplation  his  larger  "  History 
of  British  Birds,"  3  volumes  of  which  appeared  in  1837-40,  but  the  4th  and 
Sth  volumes  not  till  1852.  — E.  C. 

*  The  completed  volume  bears  date  of  MDCCCXXXI.  on  the  titlepage 
and  the  publisher's  imprint  of  "  Adam  Black,  55,  North  Bridge,  Edinburgh." 
The  collation  is  pp.  i-xxiv,  1-512,  -J-  15  pp.  of  Prospectus,  etc.  This  is 
the  text  to  plates  I.-C.  (i-ioo)  of  the  elephant  folios.  Other  copies 
are  said  to  bear  the  imprint  of  "  Philadelphia,  E.  L.  Carey  and  A.  Hart, 
MDCCCXXXI."— E.C. 

Audubon  wrote  to  Dr.  Richard  Harlan  on  March  13,  1831, "  I  have  sent 
a  copy  of  the  first  volume  to  you  tcniay." 

VOL.  I. — 5 


It; 


«    at 


AUDUBON 


used  himself,  so  that,  as  he  rarely  signed  an  oil  painting,^ 
the  mill-board  is  no  proof  of  identity  one  way  or  the 
other. 

On  April  15,  1831,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Audubon  left  Edin- 
burgh for  London,  then  went  on  to  Paris,  where  there 
were   fourteen  subscribers.     They  were  in  France  from 
May  until  the  end  of  July,  when  London  again  received 
them.     On    August    2d   they   sailed    for    America,   and 
landed  on  September  4th.    They  went  to  Louisville  at 
once,  where  Mrs.  Audubon  remained  with  her  sons,  and 
the  naturalist  went  south,  his  wish  being  to  visit  Florida 
and  the  adjacent  islands.    It  was  on  this  trip  that,  stopping 
at  Charleston,  S.  C,  he  made  the   acquaintance  of  the 
Rev.  John  Bach  man*  in  October,   1831.     The  two  soon 
became  the  closest  friends,  and  this  friendship  was  only 
severed    by  death.     Never  were    men    more    dissimilar 
in   character,   but    both   were   enthusiastic   and    devoted 
naturalists;    and   herein  was  the  bond,  which  later  was 
strengthened  by  the  marriages  of  Victor  and  John  to  Dr. 
Bachman's  two  eldest  daughters." 

The  return  from  Florida  in  the  spring  of  1832  was 
followed  by  a  journey  to  New  Brunswick  and  Maine,  when, 
for  the  first  time  in  many  years,  the  whole  family  travelled 
together.  They  journeyed  in  the  most  leisurely  manner, 
stopping  where  there  were  birds,  going  on  when  they 
found  none,  everywhere  welcomed,  everywhere  finding 
those  willing  to  render  assistance  to  the  "  American  back- 
woodsman "  in  his  researches.  Audubon  had  the  simpli- 
city and  charm  of  manner  which  interested  others  at  once, 
and  his  old  friend  Dr.  Bachman  understood  this  when  he 

*  We  only  possess  one  oil  painting  signed  "  Audubon." 

»  John  Bachman,  D.  D.,  LL.  D.,  Ph.  D.,  Feb.  4,  1790 -April  24,  1874. 
Author  of  many  works,  scientific,  zoological,  and  religious.  For  siity 
years  he  was  pastor  of  St.  John's  Lutheran  Church,  Charleston,  S.  C. 

•  Both  these  daughters  died  young,  —  Maria,  the  eldest,  who  married 
John,  before  she  was  twenty-four;  Eliza,  who  married  Victor,  still  younger, 
during  the  first  year  of  her  wedded  life. 


vvrot, 
buy," 

Linco 

years, 

Audut 

^heir  w 

InOi 

intend  t 

'"  Amei 

'■"  Bostot 

^nd  when 

^^Per/enc. 

P''oposed 

^^e  sch( 

"'as  charter 

;?^"'  aW  un. 

,;"°«' first 

T'  ^'  fo  thi 
^''^  family     .^ 

r  '"^ '"  the  il 


\  -.wmM-^^ 


AUDUBON 


67 


n 


wrote :  "  Audubon  has  given  to  him  what  nobody  else  can 
buy."  On  this  Maine  journey,  the  friendship  between  the 
Lincolns  at  Dennysville,  begun  in  the  wanderer's  earlier 
years,  was  renewed,  and  with  this  hospitable  family  Mrs. 
Audubon  remained  while  her  husband  and  sons  made 
their  woodland  researches. 

In  October  of  1832,  Victor  sailed  for  England,  to  super- 
intend the  publishing  of  the  work ;  his  father  remained 
in  America  drawing  and  re-drawing,  much  of  the  time 
in  Boston,  where,  as  everywhere,  many  friends  were  made, 
and  where  he  had  a  short,  but  severe  illness  —  an  unusual 
experience  with  him.  In  the  spring  of  1833,  the  long 
proposed  trip  to  Labrador  was  planned  and  undertaken. 
The  schooner  "  Ripley,"  Captain  Emery  commanding, 
was  chartered.  Audubon  was  accompanied  by  five  young 
men,  all  under  twenty-four  years  of  age,  namely :  Joseph 
CooHdge,  George  C.  Shattuck,  William  Ingalls,  Thomas  Lin- 
coln and  John  Woodhouse,  the  naturalist's  younger  son. 
On  June  6  they  sailed  for  the  rocky  coasts  and  storm-beaten 
islands,  which  are  so  fully  described  in  the  Labrador  Jour- 
nal, now  first  published  entire  in  the  present  work. 

Victor  was  still  in  England,  and  to  him  his  father  wrote, 
on  May  16,  1833,  a  long  letter  filled  with  careful  direc- 
tions as  to  the  completion  of  the  work  now  so  far  accom- 
plished, and  which  was  so  dear  —  as  it  is  to-day  —  to  all 
the  family.  The  entire  letter  is  too  long  and  too  personal 
to  give  beyond  a  few  extracts :  "  Should  the  /  uthor  of  all 
[things  deprive  us  of  our  lives,  work  for  and  comfort  the 
jdear  being  who  gave  you  birth.  Work  for  her,  my  son, 
las  long  as  it  may  be  the  pleasure  of  God  to  grant  her  life ; 
[nev^r  neglect  her  a  moment ;  in  a  word,  prove  to  her  that 
you  are  truly  a  son  !  Continue  the  publication  of  our 
»ork  to  the  last ;  you  have  in  my  journals  all  necessary 
facts,  and  in  yourself  sufficient  ability  to  finish  the  letter- 
press, with  the  assistance  of  our  worthy  friend  John  Bach- 
nan,  as  well  as  MacGillivray.     If  you  should  deem  it  wise 


68 


AUDUBON 


to  remove  the  publication  of  the  work  to  this  country,  I 
advise  you  to  settle  in  Boston ;  /  have  faith  in  the  Bos- 
tonians.  I  entreat  you  to  be  careful,  industrious,  and  per- 
severing; pay  every  one  most  punctually,  and  never  permit 
your  means  to  be  over-reached.  May  the  blessings  of 
those  who  love  you  be  always  with  you,  supported  by 
those  of  Almighty  God." 

During  the  Labrador  voyage,  which  was  both  arduous 
and  expensive,  many  bird-skins  (seventy-three)  were  pre- 
pared and  brought  back,  besides  the  drawings  made,  a  large 
collection  of  plants,  and  other  curiosities.  Rough  as  the 
experience  was,  it  was  greatly  enjoyed,  especially  by  the 
young  men.  Only  one  of  these  ^  is  now  living  (1897), 
and  he  bears  this  testimony  to  the  character  of  the 
naturalist,  with  whom  he  spent  three  months  in  the  closest 
companionship.  In  a  letter  to  me  dated  Oct  9,  1 896,  he 
says :  "  You  had  only  to  meet  him  to  love  him ;  and  when 
you  had  conversed  with  him  for  a  moment,  you  looked 
upon  him  as  an  old  friend,  rather  than  a  stranger.  ...  To 
this  day  I  can  see  him,  a  magnificent  gray-haired  man, 
childlike  in  his  simplicity,  kind-hearted,  noble-souled,  lover 
of  nature  and  lover  of  youth,  friend  of  humanity,  and  one 
whose  religion  was  the  golden  rule." 

The  Labrador  expedition  ended  with  summer,  and  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Audubon  went  southward  by  land,  John  going 
by  water  to  meet  them  at  Charleston,  S.  C,  —  Victor 
meanwhile  remaining  in  London.  In  the  ever  hospitable 
home  of  the  Bachmans  part  of  the  winter  of  1833-34  was 
spent,  and  many  a  tale  is  told  of  hunting  parties,  of  camp- 
ing in  the  Southern  forests,  while  the  drawings  steadily 
increased  in  number.  Leaving  Charleston,  the  tra)jels| 
were  continued  through  North  and  South  Carolina  aodf 

»  Mr.  Joseph  Coolidge,  formerly  of  Maine,  now  of  San  Francisco,  Call 
Two  others  are  known  by  name  to  every  ornithologist  through  Auwl 
bon's  Emberita  shattttckii  and  Fringilla  lincolnii ;  for  these  birds  seeiioW| 
beyond.  —  £.  C. 


no 

poi 

I 

jour 

for  ; 

was 

the  ' 

Man) 

proof 

^hs.  t 

had  be 

destroy 

unfortu 

'^^sideni 

piihlishi 

Jt  Was 

Contfnen 

'■emainde 

respectfvj 

^f  Portraj 

^1  Jul}. 

to  find  thl 

t^e  vaiuaf 

3nd  abroq 

Wovvn  up  I 
^''s-  AuJ 
^ouse  wl] 

Cavendish 

f^t^er  and 

^ashingtc 

Edward  H 

'"an's  whej 

*The, 


V¥ 


AUDUBON 


69 


northward  to  New  York,  when  the  three  sailed  for  Liver- 
pool April  16,  and  joined  Victor  in  London,   in  May, 

1834. 
It  has  been  erroneously  stated  that  Audubon  kept  no 

journals  during  this  second  visit  to  England  and  Scotland, 

for  the  reasons  that  his  family  —  for  whom  he  wrote  — 

was  with  him,  and  also  that  he  worked  so  continuously  for 

the  "  Ornithological  Biography ;  "  but  this  is  a  mistake. 

Many  allusions  to  the  diaries   of  these  two  years   from 

April,  1834,  until  August,  1836,  are  found,  and  conclusive 

proof  is  that  Victor  writes:  "On  the   19th  of  July  last, 

1845,  the  copper-plates  from  which  the  "  Birds  of  America  " 

had  been  printed  were  ruined  by  fire,^  though  not  entirely 

destroyed,  as  were  many  of  my  father's  journals,  —  most 

unfortunately  those  which    he   had  written    during    his 

residence  in  London  and  Edinburgh   while  writing  and 

publishing  the  letter-press." 

It  was  at  this  time  that  Victor  and  John  went  to  the 
Continent  for  five  months,  being  with  their  parents  the 
remainder  of  the  time,  both  studying  painting  in  their 
respective  branches,  Victor  working  at  landscapes,  John 
at  portraits  and  birds. 

In  July,  1836,  Audubon  and  John  returned  to  America, 
to  find  that  nearly  everything  in  the  way  of  books,  papers, 
the  valuable  and  curious  things  collected  both  at  home 
and  abroad,  had  been  destroyed  in  New  York  in  the  fire 
of  1835,  Mr.  Berthoud's  warehouse  being  one  of  those 
blown  up  with  gunpowder  to  stay  the  spread  of  the  fire. 
Mrs.  Audubon  and  Victor  remained  in  London,  in  the 
house  where  they  had  lived  some  time,  4  Wimpole  St., 
Cavendish  Square.  After  a  few  weeks  in  New  York, 
father  and  son  went  by  land  to  Charleston,  pausing  at 
Washington  and  other  cities;  and  being  joined  by  Mr. 
Edward  Harris  in  the  spring  of  1837,  they  left  Dr.  Bach- 
man's  where  they  had  spent  the  winter,  for  the  purpose 

^  The  offices  34  Liberty  St.,  New  York,  were  burned  at  this  time. 


1"'  f,'  I 


rr 


t  i  ! 


m 


n 


70 


AUDUBON 


'|i: 


of  exploring  part  of  the  coast  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 
Tliis  expedition  they  were  assisted  in  making  by  Col.  John 
Abert,*  who  procured  them  the  Revenue  cutter  "  Camp- 
bell." Fire  having  afterward  (in  1845)  destroyed  the  jour- 
nals of  this  period,  only  a  few  letters  remain  to  tell  us  of 
the  coasting  voyage  to  Galveston  Bay,  Texas,  though  the 
ornithological  results  of  this  journey  are  all  in  the  "  Birds 
of  America,"  It  was  during  this  visit  to  Charleston  that 
the  plans  were  begun  which  led  to  the  "  Quadrupeds  of 
North  America,"  under  the  joint  authorship  of  Audubon 
and  Bachman.'' 

In  the  late  summer  of  1837,  Audubon,  with  John  and 
his  wife,  —  for  he  had  married  Maria,  Dr.  Bachman's 
eldest  daughter,  —  returned  to  England,  his  last  voyage 
there,  and  remained  abroad  until  the  autumn  of  1839, 
when  the  family,  with  the  addition  of  the  first  grandchild,' 
once  more  landed  in  America,  and  settled,  if  such  wander- 
ers can  ever  be  said  to  settle,  in  New  York,  in  the  then 
uptown  region  of  86  White  St. 

The  great  ornithological  work  had  been  finished,  abso- 

1  John  James  Abert,  who  was  in  1837  brevet  lieutenant-colonel  of  Top- 
ographical Engineers,  U.  S.  Army,  and  afterward  chief  of  his  corps. 
Abert's  Squirrel,  Sciurus  aberti,  forms  the  subject  of  plate  153,  fig-  i.  of 
Audubon  and  Bachman's  "  Quadrupeds." 

3  This  important  and  standard  work  on  American  Mammalogy  was  not, 
however,  finished  till  many  years  afterward,  nor  did  Audubon  live  to  see 
its  completion.  Publication  of  the  colored  plates  in  oblong  folio,  with- 
out text,  began  at  least  as  early  as  1840,  and  with  few  exceptions  they  first 
appeared  in  this  form.  They  were  subsequently  reduced  to  large  octavo 
size,  and  issued  in  parts  with  the  text,  then  first  published.  The  whole, 
text  and  plates,  were  tben  gathered  in  3  volumes:  vol.  i.,  1846;  vol.  ii., 
1851 ;  vol.  ilL,  to  page  254  and  pi.  150,  1853 ;  vol.  iii.,  p.  255  to  end,  1854. 
There  are  in  all  155  plates;  50  in  vol.  i.,  50  in  vol.  ii.,  55  in  vol.  iii.; 
about  half  of  them  are  from  Andubon's  brush,  the  rest  by  John  Wood- 
house.  The  exact  character  of  the  joint  authorship  does  not  appear; 
but  no  doubt  the  technical  descriptions  are  by  Dr.  Bachman.  Publication 
was  made  in  New  York  by  Victor  Audubon;  and  there  was  a  reissue 
of  some  parts  of  the  work  at  least,  ?8  vol.  i.  is  found  with  copyright  of  184^ 
and  date  1851  on  the  title.—  E.  C. 

>  Lucy,  now  Mrs.  Delancey  B.  Williams. 


iuteJy 

cuitiej 

days  c 

opsis  " 

worker 

the  dra 

"Birds 

pubiishi 

size  witl] 

his  XixtiQ 

advised  t 

could  not 

^air  Edinl 

house  V,;!^^ 

novv  Jcnowf 

^ork  City. 

niother.     7 

^^^ays  spoJ 

name  yNhxch 

°^  us  who  , 

^^'?'?y  chi/df 

three  of  the 

^o  raiJroa 
^'^ere  Audul 


AUDUBON 


n 


lutely  completed,^  in  the  face  of  incredible  delays  and  diffi- 
culties, and  representing  an  amount  of  work  which  in  these 
days  of  easy  travel  it  is  hard  to  comprehend.  The  "  Syn- 
opsis "  also  was  published  in  this  year,  and  the  indefatigable 
worker  began  at  once  the  octavo  edition  of  the  "  Birds,"  and 
the  drawings  of  the  quadrupeds.  For  this  edition  of  the 
"  Birds  "  Victor  attended  almost  wholly  to  the  printing  and 
publishing,  and  John  reduced  every  drawing  to  the  required 
size  with  the  aid  of  the  camera  lucida,  Audubon  devoting 
his  time  to  the  coloring  and  obtaining  of  subscribers. 

Having  fully  decided  to  settle  in  New  York  City,  and 
advised  their  friends  to  that  effect,  Audubon  found  he 
could  not  live  in  any  city,  except,  as  he  writes,  "  perhaps 
fair  Edinburgh;"  so  in  the  spring  of  1842,  the  town 
house  was  sold,  and  the  family  moved  to  "  Minniesland," 
now  known  as  Audubon  Park,  in  the  present  limits  of  New 
York  City.  The  name  came  from  the  fact  that  my  father 
and  uncle  always  used  the  Scotch  name  "  Minnie "  for 
mother.  The  land  when  bought  was  deeded  to  her,  and 
always  spoken  of  as  Minnie's  land,  and  this  became  the 
name  which  the  Audubons  gave  it,  by  which  to  day  those 
of  us  who  are  left  recall  the  lovely  home  where  their 
happy  childhood  was  spent ;  for  here  were  born  all  but 
three  of  the  fourteen  grandchildren. 

No  railroad  then  separated  the  lawn  from  the  beach 
where  Audubon  so   often   hauled  the  seine;  the  dense 

*  Victor  Audubon  wrote  in  reply  to  a  question  as  to  how  many  copies 
of  the  "  Birds  "  were  in  existence  :  "  About  175  copies ;  of  these  1  should 
say  80  were  in  our  own  country.  The  length  of  time  over  which  the  work 
extended  brought  many  changes  to  original  subscribers,  and  this  accounts 
for  the  odd  volumes  which  are  sometimes  offered  for  sale." 

In  stating  that  the  work  had  been  "  absolutely  completed  "  in  1838, 1  must 
not  omit  to  add  that  when  the  octavo  reissue  appeared  it  contained  a  few 
additional  birds  chiefly  derived  from  Audubon's  fruitful  voyage  up  the 
Missouri  in  1843,  which  also  yielded  much  material  for  the  work  on  the 
Quadrupeds.  The  appearance  of  the  "  Synopsis  "  in  1839  marks  the  interval 
between  the  completion  of  the  original  undertaking  and  the  beginning 
of  plans  for  its  reduction  to  octavo.  —  E.  C. 


I 


72 


AUDUBON 


woods  all  around  resounded  to  the  songs  of  the  birds  he 
so  loved ;  many  animals  (deer,  elk,  moose,  bears,  wolves, 
foxes,  and  smaller  quadrupeds)  were  kept  in  enclosures 
—  never  in  cages  —  mostly  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
distant  from  the  river,  near  the  little  building  known 
as  the  "  painting  house."  What  joyous  memories  are 
those  of  the  rush  out  of  doors,  lessons  being  over,  to  the 
little  brook,  following  which  one  gathered  the  early  blos- 
soms in  their  season,  or  in  the  autumn  cleared  out  leaves, 
that  its  waters  might  flow  unimpeded,  and  in  winter  found 
icicles  of  wondrous  shape  and  beauty ;  and  just  beyond  its 
source  stood  the  painting  house,  where  every  child  was 
always  welcome,*  where  the  wild  flowers  from  hot  little 
hands  were  painted  in  the  pictures  of  what  we  called  "  the 
animals,"  to  the  everlasting  pride  and  glory  of  their 
finder. 

It  was  hoped  that  only  shorter  trips  would  now  be 
taken,  and  a  visit  to  Canada  as  far  as  Quebec  was  made 
in  August  and  September  of  1842. 

But  even  in  this  home  after  his  own  tastes,  where  hospi- 
tality and  simplicity  ruled,  Audubon  could  not  stay,  for 
his  heart  had  always  been  set  on  going  farther  west,  and 
though  both  family  and  friends  thought  him  growing  too 
old  for  such  a  journey,  he  started  in  March,  1843,  fo*"  St 
Louis,   and  thence   up   the    Missouri   on   the  steamboat 
"  Omega  "  of  the  American  Fur  Company,  which  left  on  its 
annual   trip  April   25,    1843,   taking  up   supplies  of  all 
sorts,  and   returning  with  thousands   of  skins  and  furs. 
Here  again  Audubon  speaks  for  himself,  and  I  shall  not 
now  anticipate  his  account  with  words  of  mine,  as  the 
Missouri  journal  follows  in  full.     He  was   accompanied 
on  this  trip  by  Mr.  Edward  Harris,  his  faithful  friend  of 
many  years,  John  G.  Bell  as  taxidermist,  Isaac  Sprague 

I  "  These  little  folk,  of  all  sixes,  sit  and  play  in  my  room  and  do  not 
touch  the  specimens."  (Letter  of  Dr.  Bachman,  May  1 1,  1848,  to  his  familj 
in  Charleston.) 


as 

ass 

tx\\ 

dut 

the 

and 
on  t 

ness. 
Bosto 
says  ; 
/ast  se 
down  i 
once  p 
begun 
Wonted 
forced  t 
»iiustrat[ 
Surrouni 
his  two 

ch'idren,! 
^o  desfreJ 
^ousehoi] 
witness. "[ 
Of  th/l 
'n  her  joi 
kmdiy  nai 
'^^  either 

^y*  it  wa 
'horning,  \ 

*  Harper's 
.  'Both  80„J 

Mrs.  V.  gI 


AUDUBON 


73 


I-  -J 


as  artist,  and  Lewis  Squires  as  secretary  and  general 
assistant.  With  the  exception  of  Mr.  Harris,  all  were 
engaged  by  Audubon,  who  felt  his  time  was  short,  his 
duties  many,  while  the  man  of  seventy  ( ?)  had  no  longer 
the  strength  of  youth. 

November  of  1843  saw  him  once  more  at  Minniesland, 
and  the  long  journeys  were  forever  over;  but  work 
on  the  "  Quadrupeds "  was  continued  with  the  usual 
energy.  The  next  few  years  were  those  of  great  happi- 
ness. His  valued  friend  Dr.  Thomas  M.  Brewer,  of 
Boston,  visited  him  in  1846.  Writing  of  him  Dr.  Brewer 
says :  ^  "  The  patriarch  had  greatly  changed  since  I  had 
last  seen  him.  He  wore  his  hair  longer,  and  it  now  hung 
down  in  locks  of  snowy  whiteness  on  his  shoulders.  His 
once  piercing  gray  eyes,  though  still  bright,  had  already 
begun  to  fail  him.  He  could  no  longer  paint  with  his 
wonted  accuracy,  and  had  at  last,  most  reluctantly,  been 
forced  to  surrender  to  his  sons  the  task  of  completing  the 
illustrations  to  the  "  Quadrupeds  of  North  America." 
Surrounded  by  his  large  family,  including  his  devoted  wife, 
his  two  sons  with  their  wives,'  and  quite  a  troop  of  grand- 
children, his  enjoyments  of  life  seemed  to  leave  him  little 
to  desire.  ...  A  pleasanter  scene,  or  a  more  interesting 
household  it  has  never  been  the  writer's  good  fortune  to 
witness." 

Of  this  period  one  of  his  daughters-in-law '  speaks 
in  her  journal  as  follows :  "  Mr.  Audubon  was  of  a  most 
kindly  nature ;  he  never  passed  a  workman  or  a  stranger 
of  either  sex  without  a  salutation,  such  as,  '  Good-day, 
friend,'  'Well,  my  good  man,  how  do  you  do?'  If  a 
boy,  it  was,  '  Well,  my  little  man,'  or  a  little  girl,  '  Good 
morning,  lassie,  how  are  you  to-day?'    All  were  noticed, 


\m 


•  mi] 


^  -m 


1;  ,,'i 


^  i- 


n 


»  Harper's  Monthly  Magazine,  October,  1880,  p.  665. 

*  Both  sons  had  married  a  second  time.    Victor  had  married  Georgiana 
R.  Mailory  of  New  York,  and  John,  Caroline  Hall  of  England. 

•  Mrs.  V.  G.  Audubon. 


74 


AUDUBON 


and  his  pleasant  smile  was  so  cordial  that  all  the  villagers 
and  work-people  far  and  near,  knew  and  liked  him.  He 
painted  a  little  after  his  return  from  the  Yellowstone 
River,  but  as  he  looked  at  his  son  John's  animals,  he  said : 
'  Ah,  Johnny,  no  need  for  the  old  man  to  paint  any  more 
when  you  can  do  work  like  that.'  He  was  most  affection- 
ate in  his  disposition,  very  fond  of  his  grandchildren,  and 
it  was  a  pleasant  sight  to  see  him  sit  with  one  on  his 
knee,  and  others  about  him,  singing  French  songs  in  his 
lively  way.  It  was  sweet  too,  to  see  him  with  his  wife; 
he  was  always  her  lover,  and  invariably  used  the  pro- 
nouns '  thee '  and  '  thou  '  in  his  speech  to  her.  Often  have 
I  heard  him  say,  '  Well,  sweetheart !  always  busy;  come 
sit  thee  down  a  few  minutes  and  rest.' " 

My  mother  has  told  me  that  when  the  picture  of  the 
Cougars  came  from  Texas,  where  my  father  had  painted  it, 
my  grandfather's  delight  knew  no  bounds.  He  was  be- 
side himself  with  joy  that  "  his  boy  Johnny  "  could  paint 
a  picture  he  considered  so  fine ;  he  looked  at  it  from  every 
point,  and  could  not  keep  quiet,  but  walked  ip  and  down 
filled  with  delight. 

Of  these  years  much  might  be  said,  but  much  has 
already  been  written  of  them,  so  I  will  not  repeat.^  Many 
characteristics  Audubon  kept  to  the  last ;  his  enthusiasm, 
freshness,  and  keenness  of  enjoyment  and  pain  were  never 
blunted.  His  ease  and  grace  of  speech  and  movement 
were  as  noticeable  in  the  aged  man  as  they  had  been  in 
the  happy  youth  of  Mill  Grove.  His  courteous  manners 
to  all,  high  and  low,  were  always  the  same ;  his  chivalry, 
generosity,  and  honor  were  never  dimmed,  and  his  great 
personal  beauty  never  failed  to  attract  attention;  always 
he  was  handsome.  His  stepmother  writes  from  Nantes 
to  her  husband  in  Virginia :  "  He  is  the  handsomest  boy 
in  Nantes,  but  perhaps  not  the  most  studious."     At  Mill 

*  Reminiscences  of  Audubon,  Scribner's  Monthly,  July,  1876,  p.  3335 
Turf,  Field,  and  Farm,  Nov.  i8, 1881. 


AlDUliON. 

».\ni  I  NKN.nVN.     TKOM  A  PA, ,,  IKK ....  IVIM-  OWNpr.  rv  V.  ,M  IZA  Ainrn.i 


m 


Gr, 

day 

and 

iarg 

to  s 

a  yc 
baJJ, 
a]]  tl 
somei 
tfon  ; 
Abi 
beau  til 
so  on  I 
the  "  n 
But  ' 
the  girli 
SO,  but 
anything 
'^nd  sorr 
with  his 
was  not 
hopes  in 
content  U 
ever  had 
forked,  i, 
^'^e;   Vic  J 
work;  Jol 

^ong:  JourJ 
been  his 
occasion. 
l^d;   VictQ 
"  QuadrupJ 
grounds,    ^ 
animals. 
^^''Jf  as  in] 
sons  were 


^, 


""■■M 


AC/DC/BON 


7S 


Grove  Mr.  David  Pawling  wrote  in  January,  1805:  "To- 
day I  saw  the  swiftest  skater  I  ever  beheld;  backwards 
and  forwards  he  went  like  the  wind,  even  leaping  over 
large  air-holes  fifteen  or  more  feet  across,  and  continuing 
to  skate  without  an  instant's  delay.  I  was  told  he  was 
a  young  Frenchman,  and  this  evening  I  met  him  at  a 
ball,  where  I  found  his  dancing  exceeded  his  skating; 
all  the  ladies  wished  him  as  partner;  moreover,  a  hand- 
somer man  I  never  saw,  his  eyes  alone  command  atten- 
tion; his  name,  Audubon,  is  strange  to  me." 

Abroad  it  was  the  same ;  Mr.  Rathbone  speaks  of  "  his 
beautiful  expressive  face,"  as  did  Christopher  North,  and 
so  on  until  the  beauty  of  youth  and  manhood  passed  into 
the  "  magnificent  gray-haired  man." 

But  "  the  gay  young  Frenchman  who  danced  with  all 
the  girls,"  was  an  old  man  now,  not  so  much  as  the  years 
go,  but  ir.  the  intensity  of  his  life.  He  had  never  done 
anything  by  halves ;  he  had  played  and  worked,  enjoyed 
and  sorrowed,  been  depressed  and  elated,  each  and  all 
with  his  highly  strung  nature  at  fever  heat,  and  the  end 
was  not  far.  He  had  seen  the  accomplishment  of  his 
hopes  in  the  "  Birds,"  and  the  "  Quadrupeds  "  he  was 
content  to  leave  largely  to  other  hands ;  and  surely  no  man 
ever  had  better  helpers.  From  first  to  last  his  wife  had 
worked,  in  more  ways  than  one,  to  further  the  aim  of  his 
life;  Victor  had  done  the  weary  mechanical  business 
work;  John  had  hunted,  and  preserved  specimens,  taken 
long  journeys  —  notably  to  Texas  and  California  —  and 
been  his  father's  travelling  companion  on  more  than  one 
occasion.  Now  the  time  had  come  when  he  no  longer 
led;  Victor  had  full  charge  of  the  publication  of  the 
"Quadrupeds,"  besides  putting  in  many  of  the  back- 
grounds, and  John  painted  a  large  proportion  of  the 
animals.  But  I  think  that  none  of  them  regarded  their 
work  as  individual,  —  it  was  always  ours,  for  father  and 
sons  were  comrades  and  friends ;  and  with  Dr.  Bachman's 


i  i' 


5  f 


1  i:  J 


76 


AUDUBON 


invaluable  aid  this  last  work  was  finished,  but  not  during 
Audubon's  life.  He  travelled  more  or  less  in  the  inter- 
ests of  his  publications  during  these  years,  largely  in  New 
England  and  in  the  Middle  States. 

In  1847  the  brilliant  intellect  began  to  be  dimmed;  at 
first  it  was  only  the  difficulty  of  finding  the  right  word  to 
express  an  idea,  the  gradual  lessening  of  interest,  and  this 
increased  till  in  May,  1848,  Dr.  Bachman  tells  the  pa- 
thetic close  of  the  enthusiastic  and  active  life :  "  Alas, 
my  poor  friend  Audubon !  The  outlines  of  his  beautiful 
face  and  form  are  there,  but  his  noble  mind  is  all  in  ruins. 
It  is  indescribably  sad." 

Through  these  last  years  the  devotion  of  the  entire 
household  was  his.  He  still  loved  to  wander  in  the 
woods,  he  liked  to  hear  his  wife  read  to  him,  and  music 
was  ever  a  delight.  To  the  very  last  his  daughter-in-law, 
Mrs.  Victor  G.  Audubon,  sang  a  little  Spanisl.  song  to 
him  every  evening,  rarely  permitting  anything  to  interfere 
with  what  gave  him  so  much  pleasure,  and  evening  by 
evening  he  listened  to  the  Buenas  Noches,  which  was  so 
soon  to  be  his  in  reality. 

His  grandchildren,  also,  were  a  constant  source  of  en- 
joyment to  him,  and  he  to  them,  for  children  always  found 
a  friend  in  him ;  and  thus  quietly  did  he  pass  through  that 
valley  which  had  no  shadows  for  him. 

I  wish  to  wholly  correct  the  statement  that  Audubon 
became  blind.  His  sight  became  impaired  by  old  age, 
as  is  usually  the  case ;  he  abhorred  spectacles  or  glasses 
of  any  kind,  would  not  wear  them  except  occasionally, 
and  therefore  did  not  get  the  right  focus  for  objects  near 
by;  but  his  far-sight  was  hardly  impaired.  That  won- 
derful vision  which  surprised  even  the  keen-eyed  Indian 
never  failed  him. 

Well  do  I  remember  the  tall  figure  with  snow-white 
hair,  wandering  peacefully  along  the  banks  of  the  beautiful 
Hudson.    Already  he  was   resting  in  that   border  land 


mm 


'■'  T  f? 


AlDlllON  MONUMKNT  IN  TKINITV  CHURCH  CEMETKRV,  NKW  VOKK. 


T/ie  reverse  of  the  basi'  bears  the  inscri/>twn 


I-!rcctc(i  to  the  Memory  nt 

JOHN    JAMKS    Al'DlBdN 

In  the  ye:ir  189^,  liy  subscriptions  r.iised  Ity  tlic 

New  York  Academy  of  Science. 


wh 

go, 

inc. 

set 

goI( 

the 

the 

In 

theh 

of  th 

theT 

which 

a  sec( 

now  n 

I^ew  "5 

Now 

undistu 

they  Jc 

days  Jo 
TruJi 

more, 
in  the 
from  itsi 
Audubc 


^  Unveil 
Mr.  D.  G.I 
Prof.  ThoJ 


■■.3& . 


AUDUBON 


77 


which  none  can  fathom,  and  it  could  not  have  been  far  to 
go,  no  long  and  weary  journey,  when,  after  a  few  days  of 
increasing  feebleness,  for  there  was  no  illness,  just  as  sun- 
set was  flooding  the  pure,  snow-covered  landscape  with 
golden  light,  at  five  o'clock  on  Monday,  January  27,  1851, 
the  "  pard-like  spirit,  beautiful  and  swift,  .  .  .  outsoared 
the  shadow  of  our  night" 

•  •  •  •  •  •  • 

In  a  quiet  spot  in  Trinity  Church  Cemetery,  not  far  from 
the  home  where  Audubon  spent  his  last  years,  the  remains 
of  the  naturalist  were  laid  with  all  honor  and  respect,  on 
the  Thursday  following  his  death.  Time  brought  changes 
which  demanded  the  removal  of  the  first  burial-place,  and 
a  second  one  was  chosen  in  the  same  cemetery,  which  is 
now  marked  by  the  beautiful  monument  erected  by  the 
New  York  Academy  of  Sciences.^ 

Now  wife  and  sons  have  joined  him ;  together  they  rest 
undisturbed  by  winter  storms  or  summer  heat;  the  river 
they  loved  so  well  flows  past  their  silent  home  as  in 
days  long  gone  when  its  beauties  won  their  hearts. 

Truly  the  place  where  they  dwelt  shall  ».  dw  them  no 
more,  but  "  while  the  melody  of  the  mocking-bird  is  heard 
in  the  cypress  forests  of  Louisiana,  and  the  squirrel  leaps 
from  its  leafy  curtain  like  a  thing  of  beauty,  the  name  of 
Audubon  will  live  in  the  hearts  of  coming  generations." 

1  Unveiled  April  26, 1893,  on  which  occasion  eulogies  were  pronounced  by 
Mr.  D.  G.  Elliot,  ex-president  of  the  American  Ornithologists'  Union,  and 
Prof.  Thomas  Egleston  of  Columbia  College. 


t   VxV 


ft 


t    i 


■Ii!!i 

I 


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1 

i 

ij  illjyj 

1 

fii^ 


\  ri- 


THE    EUROPEAN   JOURNALS 


1826-1829 


•1  ^i 


1    : 

i  ! 


w^'- 


m    -A; 


|..-i 


id    f" 


O 


friend 
Pope'; 
P-  M., 
Kembj 
OH  We 
safi^e  to 
of  Kent 
and  ioa( 
Orleans, 
old  frier 
'"ng  was 
t''i  dusl< 
dollars  ( 
discover] 
several 
the  "i^j 

o'clock  fi 

tfte  Af  agi[ 

and  breal 

Arrived 

gave  me  I 


the 


neces 


'ntroductJ 
">«.  AlsJ 
the  box 

VOL. 


5vi 


THE   EUROPEAN   JOURNALS 
1826-1829 

ON  the  26th  April,  1826,  I  left  my  beloved  wife  Lucy 
Audubon,  and  my  son  John  Woodhouse  with  our 
friends  the  Percys  at  Bayou  Sara.  I  remained  at  Doctor 
Pope's  at  St.  Francisville  till  Wednesday  at  four  o'clock 
P.  M.,  when  I  took  the  steamboat  *'  Red  River,"  Captain 
Kemble,  for  New  Orleans,  which  city  I  reached  at  noon 
on  Wednesday,  27th.  Visited  many  vessels  for  my  pas- 
sage to  England,  and  concluded  to  go  in  the  ship  "  Delos  " 
of  Kennebunk,  Captain  Joseph  Hatch,  bound  to  Liverpool, 
and  loaded  entirely  with  cotton.  During  my  stay  in  New 
Orleans,  I  lived  at  G.  L.  Sapinot's,  and  saw  many  of  my 
old  friends  and  acquaintances,  but  the  whole  time  of  wait- 
ing was  dull  and  heavy.  I  generally  walked  from  morning 
till  dusk.  New  Orleans,  to  a  man  who  does  not  trade  in 
dollars  or  other  such  stuff,  is  a  miserable  spot.  Finally, 
discovering  that  the  ship  would  not  be  ready  for  sea  for 
several  days  longer,  I  ascended  the  Mississippi  again  in 
the  "  Red  River,"  and  arrived  at  Mrs.  Percy's  at  three 
o'clock  in  the  morning,  having  had  a  dark  ride  through 
the  Magnolia  woods.  I  remained  two  days,  left  at  sunrise, 
and  breakfasted  with  my  good  friend  Augustin  Bourgeat. 
Arrived  at  New  Orleans,  I  called  on  the  governor,  who 
gave  me  a  letter  bearing  the  seal  of  the  State,  obviating 
the  necessity  of  a  passport.  I  received  many  letters  of 
introduction  from  different  persons  which  will  be  of  use  to 
me.  Also  I  wrote  to  Charles  Bonaparte,  apprising  him  of 
the  box  of  bird  skins  forwarded  to  him. 

VOL.  I. — 6 


'■  Bt*t  Cl 


I? 


•1  i  '■ 


It 


83 


AUDUBON 


On  the  17th  of  May,  my  baggage  was  put  on  board,  I 
following,  and  the  steamboat  "  Hercules  "  came  alongside 
at  seven  P.  M.,  and  in  ten  hours  put  the  "  Delos  "  to  sea.  I 
was  immediately  affected  with  sea-sickness,  which,  however, 
lasted  but  a  short  time ;  I  remained  on  deck  constantly, 
forcing  myself  to  exercise.  We  calculated  our  day  of 
departure  to  be  May  i8,  1826,  at  noon,  when  we  first 
made  an  observation.  It  is  now  the  28th ;  the  weather 
has  been  generally  fair  with  light  winds.  The  first  objects 
which  diverted  my  thoughts  from  the  dear  ones  left  behind 
me,  were  the  beautiful  Dolphins  that  glided  by  the  vessel 
like  burnished  gold  by  day,  and  bright  meteors  by  night. 
Our  captain  and  mate  proved  experts  at  alluring  them  with 
baited  hooks,  and  dexterous  at  piercing  them  with  a  five- 
pronged  instrument,  generally  called  by  seamen  "  grain." 
If  hooked,  the  Dolphin  flou'ices  desperately,  glides  off 
with  all  its  natural  swiftness,  rises  perpendicularly  out  of 
the  water  several  feet,  and  often  shakes  off  the  hook  and 
escapes ;  if,  however,  he  is  well  hooked,  he  is  played  about 
for  a  while,  soon  exhausted,  and  hauled  into  the  ship. 
Their  flesh  is  firm,  dry,  yet  quite  acceptable  at  sea. 
They  differ  much  in  their  sizes,  being,  according  to  age, 
smaller  or  larger ;  I  saw  some  four  and  a  half  feet  long, 
but  a  fair  average  is  three  feet.  The  paunch  of  all  we 
caught  contained  more  or  less  small  fishes  of  different 
varieties,  amongst  which  the  flying-fish  is  most  prevalent. 
Dolphins  move  in  companies  of  from  four  or  five  to 
twenty  or  more.  They  chase  the  flying-fish,  that  with 
astonishing  rapidity,  after  having  escaped  their  sharp 
pursuer  a  while  in  the  water,  emerge,  and  go  through 
the  air  with  the  swiftness  of  an  arrow,  sometimes  in  a 
straight  course,  sometimes  forming  part  of  a  circle;  yet 
frequently  the  whole  is  unavailing,  for  the  Dolphin  bounds 
from  the  sea  in  leaps  of  fifteen  or  twenty  feet,  and  so 
moves  rapidly  towards  his  prey,  and  the  little  fish  falls,  to 
be  swallowed  by  his  antagonist.    You  must  not  suppose, 


ho 

risf 

pov 

like 

thes 

whh 

may 

of  sy 

the  n 

comp 

to  hir 

move 

sue  of; 

the  cas 

We  i 

This  vva 

gave  m( 

trary  to 

grained  ; 

iiead,  th 

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speared  . 

s''d  aJon^ 

t'me  and] 

niediatej_j 

wards. 

iike  the 

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these  cJoi 

.^'spositioj 

^'"g  matte/ 

^ody,  thfi 

^^e  wounj 

head,  --.  a] 

^^  untou^ 
granted. 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


83 


however,  that  the  Dolphin  moves  through  the  seas  without 
risk  or  danger;  he,  as  well  as  others  has  vigilant  and 
powerful  enemies.  One  is  the  Barracouta,  in  shape  much 
like  a  Pike,  growing  sometimes  to  a  large  size;  one  of 
these  cut  off  upwards  of  a  foot  of  a  Dolphin's  tail,  as  if  done 
with  an  axe,  as  the  Dolphin  made  for  a  baited  hook;  and  I 
may  say  we  about  divided  the  bounty.  There  is  a  degree 
of  sympathy  existing  between  Dolphins  quite  remarkable; 
the  moment  one  of  them  is  hooked  or  grained,  all  those  in 
company  immediately  make  towards  him,  and  remain  close 
to  him  till  the  unfortunate  is  hauled  on  board,  then  they 
move  off  and  will  rarely  bite.  The  skin  of  the  fish  is  a  tis- 
sue of  small  scales,  softer  in  their  substance  than  is  generally 
the  case  in  scaley  fishes  of  such  size;  the  skin  is  tough. 

We  also  caught  a  Porpoise  about  seven  feet  in  length. 
This  was  accomplished  during  the  night,  when  the  moon 
gave  me  a  full  view  of  all  that  happened.  The  fish,  con- 
trary to  custom,  was  grained  instead  of  harpooned,  but 
grained  in  such  a  way  and  so  effectually,  through  the  fore- 
head, that  it  was  then  held  and  suffered  to  flounce  and 
beat  about  the  bow  of  the  '..ip,  until  the  man  who  had  first 
speared  it  gave  the  line  holding  the  grain  to  our  captain, 
slid  along  the  bobstay  with  a  rope,  then,  after  some  little 
time  and  perhaps  some  difficulty,  the  fish  was  secured  im- 
mediately about  its  tail,  and  hoisted  with  that  part  up- 
wards. Arrived  at  the  deck  it  gave  a  deep  groan,  much 
like  the  last  from  a  dying  hog,  flapped  heavily  once  or 
twice,  and  died.  I  had  never  before  examined  one  of 
these  closely,  and  the  duck-bill-like  snout,  and  the  curious 
disposition  of  the  tail,  with  the  body,  were  new  and  interest- 
ing matters  of  observation  to  me.  The  large,  sleek,  black 
body,  the  quantity  of  warm,  black  blood  issuing  from 
the  wound,  the  blowing  apertures  placed  over  the  fore- 
head, —  all  attracted  my  attention.  I  requested  it  might 
be  untouched  till  the  next  morning,  and  my  wish  was 
granted.     On  opening  it  the   intestines  were  still  warm 


■rf'l 

'■■  ■■  '1  <l 

■^'\s' 

\l\' 

'"'%'    '*  '■' 

:  ^m. 

I  - 


84 


AUDUBON 


(say  eight  hours  after  death),  and  resembled  very  much 
those  of  a  hog.     The  paunch  contained  several  cuttle-fish 
partly  decayed.     The  flesh  was  removed  from  the  skeleton 
and  left  the  central  bone  supported  on  its  sides  by  two 
horizontal,  and  one  perpendicular  bone,  giving  it  the  ap- 
pearance of  a  four-edged   cutting   instrument;  the  lower 
jaw,  or  as  I  would  prefer  writing  it,  mandible,  exceeds  the 
upper  about  three-fourths  of  an  inch.     Both  were  furnished 
with  single  rows  of  divided  conical  teeth,  about  one-half 
an  inch  in  length,  so  parted  as  to  admit  those  of  the  upper 
jaw  between  each  of  those  of  the  lower.     The  fish  might 
weigh  about  two  hundred  pounds.     The  eyes  were  small 
in  proportion  to  the  size  of  the  animal,  and  having  a  breath- 
ing aperture  above,  of  course  it  had  no  gills.     Porpoises 
move  in  large  companies,  and  generally  during  spring  and 
early  summer  go  in  pairs.     I  have  seen  a  parcel  of  them 
leap  perpendicularly  about   twenty  feet,  and   fall  with  a 
heavy  dash  in  the   sea.     Our  captain  told  us  that  there 
were  instances  when  small  boats  had  been  sunk  by  one  of 
these  heavy  fish  falling  into  them.     Whilst  I  am  engaged 
with  the  finny  tribe  (of  which,  however,  I  know  little  or 
nothing),  I  may  as  well  tell  you  that  one  morning  when 
moving  gently,  two  miles  per  hour,  the  captain  called  me 
to  show  me  some  pretty  little  fishes  just  caught  from  the 
cabin  window.     These  measured  about  three  inches,  were 
broad,  and  moved  very  quickly  through  the  water.     We 
had    pin-hooks,    and    with    these,    in    about   two    hours, 
three  hundred  and  seventy  were  caught ;  they  were  sweet 
and  good  as  food.     They  are  known  ordinarily  as  Rudder- 
fish,  and  always  keep  on  the  lee  side  of  the  rudder,  as  it 
affords  them  a  strong  eddy  to  support  them,  and  enable 
them  to  follow  the  vessel  in  that  situation ;  when  calm  they 
disperse  about  the  bow  and  sides,  and  then  will  not  bite. 
The  least  breeze  brings  them  all  astern  again  in  a  compact 
body,  when  they  seize  the   baited  hook  the  moment  it 
reaches  the  water. 


p;cc( 

that 

desin 

Captci 

rowed 

enjoyc 

aftervvi 

the  cur 

sea,  noi 

tile  beai 

to  a  Wnt 

%-boar 

't  s/nk  p 

ofthecu 
gloss}  iv] 

Let  ni( 

Mother 

and  r  Joiij 

W'atchcd 

"'iicn  on 

^■^tended.l 

of  foocf, 

tliem,  r  ij 

scient/fic 
t'lc  iong-v^j 

^  ^f-ed,  anl 
f'^^  capta/| 
'  niade  tw, 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


85 


We  have  also  caught  two  Sharks,  one  a  female  about 
seven  feet  long,  that  had  ten  young,  alive,  and  able  to 
swim  well ;  one  of  them  was  thrown  overboard  and  made 
off  as  if  well  accustomed  to  take  care  of  himself.  Another 
was  cut  in  two,  and  the  head  half  swam  off  out  of  our 
sight.  The  remainder,  as  well  as  the  parent,  were  cut  in 
pieces  for  bait  for  Dolphins,  which  are  extremely  partial  to 
that  meat.  The  weather  being  calm  and  pleasant,  I  felt 
desirous  to  have  a  view  of  the  ship  from  a  distance  and 
Captain  Hatch  politely  took  me  in  the  yawl  and  had  it 
rowed  all  round  the  "  Delos."  This  was  a  sight  I  had  not 
enjoyed  for  twenty  years,  and  I  was  much  pleased  with  it ; 
afterwards  having  occasion  to  go  out  to  try  the  bearings  of 
the  current,  I  again  accompanied  him,  and  bathed  in  the 
sea,  not  however  without  some  fears  as  to  Sharks.  To  try 
the  bearings  of  the  current  we  took  an  iron  pot  fastened 
to  a  line  of  one  hundred  and  twenty  fathoms,  and  made  a 
log-board  out  of  a  barrel's  head  leaded  on  one  side  to  make 
it  sink  perpendicularly  on  its  edge,  and  tried  the  velocity 
of  the  current  with  it  fixed  to  a  line  by  the  help  of  a  second 
glass}  whilst  our  iron  pot  acted  as  an  anchor. 

Let  me  change  my  theme,  and  speak  of  birds  awhile. 
Mother  Carey's  Chickens  {Procellaria)  came  about  us, 
and  I  loijged  to  have  at  least  one  in  my  possession.  I  had 
watched  their  evolutions,  their  gentle  patting  of  the  sea 
when  on  the  wing,  with  the  legs  hanging  and  the  web 
extended,  seen  them  take  large  and  long  ranges  in  search 
of  food,  and  return  for  bits  of  fat  thrown  overboard  for 
them,  I  had  often  looked  at  different  figures  given  by 
scientific  men ;  but  all  this  could  not  diminish  for  a  moment 
the  long-wished  for  pleasure  of  possessing  one  in  the  flesh. 
I  fired,  and  dropped  the  first  one  that  came  alongside,  and 
the  captain  most  courteously  sent  for  it  with  the  yawl. 
I  made  two  drawings  of  it;  it  proved  to  be  a  female  with 
eggs,  numerous,  but  not  larger  than  grains  of  fine  powder, 

^  This  sounds  involved,  but  is  copied  verbatina. 


1  \' 


W 


i 

m 


%: 


vn 


^i  r 


86 


A  UDUBON 


inducing  me  to  think  that  these  birds  must  either  breed 
earlier,  or  much  later,  than  any  in  our  southern  latitude. 
I  should  be  inclined  to  think  that  the  specimen  I  inspected 
had  not  laid  this  season,  though  I  am  well  satisfied  that  it 
was  an  old  bird.  During  many  succeeding  weeks  I  dis- 
covered that  numbers  flew  mated  side  by  side,  and  occa- 
sionally, particularly  on  calm,  pleasant  days  caressed  each 
other  as  Ducks  are  known  to  do. 

May  27,  1826.    Five  days  ago  we  saw  a  small  vessel 
with  all  sails  set  coming  toward  us ;  we  were  becalmed  and 
the  unknown  had  a  light  breeze.    It  approached  gradually; 
suspicions  were  entertained  that  it  might  be  a  pirate,  as 
we  had  heard  that  same  day  reports,  which  came  undoubt- 
edly from  cannon,  and  from  the  very  direction  from  which 
this  vessel  was   coming.     We   were  well  manned,  toler- 
ably  armed,   and  were    all   bent  on    resistance,    knowing 
well  that  these  gentry  gave  no  quarter,  to  purses  at  least, 
and  more  or  less  uneasiness  was  perceptible  on  every  face. 
Night  arrived,  a   squally   breeze   struck   us,    and   off  we 
moved,    and  lost  sight  of  the   pursuing  vessel  in  a  short 
time.     The  next  day  a  brig  that  had  been  in  our  wake 
came  near  us,  was  hailed,  and  found  to  be  the  "  Gleaner," 
of  Portland,  commanded  "by  an  acquaintance  of  our  com- 
mander, and    bound  also  to  Liverpool.     This  vessel  had 
left  New   Orleans   five  days   before   us.     We   kept   close 
together,  and  the   next  day  Captain   Hatch    and    myself 
boarded  her,  and  were  kindly  received ;  after  a  short  stay 
her  captain,  named  Jefferson,  came  with  us  and  remained 
the  day.     I  opened  my  drawings  and   showed  a  few  of 
them.     Mr.  Swift  was  anxious  to  see  some,  and  I  wanted 
to  examine  in  what  state  they  kept,  and  the  weather  being 
dry  and  clear  I  feared  nothing.     It  was  agreed  the  vessels 
should  keep  company  until  through  the  Gulf  Stream,  for 
security  against  pirates.     So  fine  has  the   weather  been 
so  far,   that  all  belonging  to  the  cabin  have  constantly 
slept  on  deck;  an  awning  has  been  extended  to  protect 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


87 


from  the  sun  by  day  and  the  dampness  by  night.  When 
full  a  hundred  leagues  at  sea,  a  female  Rice  Bunting  came 
on  board,  and  remained  with  us  one  night,  and  part  of  a 
day.  A  Warbler  also  came,  but  remained  only  a  few 
minutes,  and  then  made  for  the  land  we  had  left.  It 
moved  while  on  board  with  great  activity  and  sprightli- 
ness ;  the  Bunting,  on  the  contrary,  was  exhausted,  panted, 
and  I  have  no  doubt  died  of  inanition. 

Many  Sooty  Terns  were  in  sight  during  several  days. 
I  saw  one  Frigate  Pelican  high  in  air,  and  could  only  judge 
it  to  be  such  through  the  help  of  a  telescope.  Flocks  of 
unknown  birds  were  also  about  the  ship  during  a  whole 
day.  They  swam  well,  and  preferred  the  water  to  the 
air.  They  resembled  large  Phalaropes,  but  I  could  not 
be  certain.  A  small  Alligator,  that  I  had  purchased  for 
a  dollar  in  New  Orleans,  died  at  the  end  of  nine  days, 
through  my  want  of  knowledge,  or  thought,  that  salt 
matter  was  poisonous  to  him.  In  two  days  he  swelled  to 
nearly  double  his  natural  size,  breathed  hard,  and,  as  I 
have  said,  died. 

In  latitude  24°,  27',  a  Green  Heron  came  on  board,  and 
remained  until,  becoming  frightened,  it  flew  towards  the 
brig  "Gleaner;"  it  did  not  appear  in  the  least  fatigued. 
The  captain  of  the  brig  told  me  that  on  a  former  voyage 
from  Europe  to  New  Orleans,  when  about  fifty  leagues 
from  the  Balize,  a  fully  grown  Whooping  Crane  came  on 
board  his  vessel  during  the  night,  passing  over  the  length 
of  his  deck,  close  over  his  head,  over  the  helmsman,  and 
fell  in  the  yawl;  the  next  morning  the  bird  was  found 
there  completely  exhausted,  when  every  one  on  board 
supposed  it  had  passed  on.  A  cage  was  made  for  it,  but 
it  refused  food,  lingered  a  few  days,  an  len  died.  It 
was  plucked  and  found  free  from  any  wound,  and  in  good 
condition;  a  very  singular  case  in  birds  of  the  kind,  that 
are  inured  to  extensive  journeys,  and,  of  course  liable  to 
spend  much  time  without  the  assistance  of  food.  . 


i:ii:jl! 


88 


AUDUBON 


June  Jl.  We  are  a  few  miles  south  of  the  Line,  for 
the  seconc^  time  in  my  life.  Since  I  wrote  last  we  have 
parted  from  our  companion  the  "  Gleaner,"  and  are  yet 
in  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  I  have  been  at  sea  three  Sundays, 
and  yet  we  have  not  made  the  shores  of  Cuba.  Since 
my  last  date  I  have  seen  a  large  Sword-fish,  but  only  saw 
it,  two  Gannets,  caught  a  live  Warbler,  and  killed  a 
Great-footed  Hawk.  This  bird,  after  having  alighted  sev- 
eral times  on  our  yards,  made  a  dash  at  a  Warbler  which 
was  feeding  on  the  flies  about  the  vessel,  seized  it,  and 
ate  it  in  our  sight,  on  the  wing,  much  like  a  Mississippi 
Kite  devouring  the  Red-throated  Lizards.  The  warbler 
we  caught  was  a  nondescript,  which  I  named  "  The  Cape 
Florida  Songster."  We  also  saw  two  Frigate  Pelicans  at  a 
great  height,  and  a  large  species  of  Petrel,  entirely  un- 
known to  me.  I  have  read  Byron's  "  Corsair  "  with  much 
enjoyment. 

June  17.  A  brig  bound  to  Boston,  called  the  "  An- 
dromache," came  alongside,  and  my  heart  rejoiced  at 
the  idea  that  letters  could  be  carried  by  her  to  America. 
I  set  to,  and  wrote  to  my  wife  and  to  Nicholas  Berthoud. 
A  sudden  squall  separated  us  till  quite  late,  but  we  boarded 
her,  I  going  with  the  captain ;  the  sea  ran  high,  and  the 
tossing  of  our  light  yawl  was  extremely  disagreeable  to 
my  feelings.  The  brig  was  loaded  with  cotton,  extremely 
filthy,  and  I  was  glad  to  discover  that  with  all  our  dis- 
agreeables we  were  comparatively  comfortable  on  the 
"  Delos."  We  have  been  in  sight  of  Cuba  four  days;  the 
heat  excessive.  I  saw  three  beautiful  White-headed 
Pigeons,  or  Doves,  flying  about  our  ship,  but  after  sev- 
eral rounds  they  shaped  their  course  towards  the  Floridas 
and  disappeared.  The  Dolphins  we  catch  here  are  said 
to  be  poisonous ;  to  ascertain  whether  they  are  or  not,  a 
piece  of  fish  is  boiled  with  a  silver  dollar  till  quite  cooked, 
when  if  the  coin  is  not  tarnished  or  green,  the  fish  is  safe 
eating.     I  find  bathing  in  the  sea  water  extremely  refresh- 


I  s\ 

bird 

teres 

one  , 

I  ha' 

broug 

sea  in 

there 

Thty 

three  o 

^our  oi 

fifteen  c 

^v/'m  W) 

have  rcc 

from  an_y 

dJspeisec 

for  night 

frequent/; 
•^^en  try,] 
On  fnspec 
niuscuiar 
'■equ/sfte  fj 
to  traversj 
and  fight 
leather  pu, 
tended  by 

o^d'/Terentl 

Rested, 
^'■^^es   two  I 
"^^'•Jy  freshj 
"'as  tough  , 
'^  ^°  resemt 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


89 


ing,    and   enjoy   this    luxury    every   night   and   morning. 
Several  vessels  are  in  sight. 

June  26.  We  have  been  becalmed  many  days,  and 
I  should  be  dull  indeed  were  it  not  for  the  fishes  and 
birds,  and  my  pen  and  pencil.  I  have  been  much  in- 
terested in  the  Dusky  Petrels ;  the  mate  killed  four  at 
one  shot,  so  plentiful  were  they  about  our  vessel,  and 
I  have  made  several  drawings  from  these,  which  were 
brought  on  board  for  that  purpose.  They  skim  over  the 
sea  in  search  of  what  is  here  called  Gulf  Weed,  of  which 
there  are  large  patches,  perhaps  half  an  acre  in  extent. 
They  flap  the  wings  six  or  seven  times,  then  soar  for 
three  or  four  seconds,  the  tail  spread,  the  wings  extended. 
Four  or  five  of  these  birds,  indeed  sometimes  as  many  as 
fifteen  or  twenty,  will  alight  on  this  weed,  dive,  flutter,  and 
swim  with  all  the  gayety  of  ducks  on  a  pond,  which  they 
have  reached  after  a  weary  journey.  I  heard  no  note 
from  any  of  them.  No  sooner  have  the  Petrels  eaten  or 
dispersed  the  fish  than  they  rise  and  extend  their  wings 
for  flight,  in  search  of  more.  At  times,  probably  to  rest 
themselves,  they  alighted,  swam  lightly,  dipping  their  bills 
frequently  in  the  water  as  Mergansers  and  fishy  Ducks  do 
♦  when  trying,  by  tasting,  if  the  water  contains  much  fish. 
On  inspection  of  the  body,  I  found  the  wings  powerfully 
muscular  and  strong  for  the  size  of  the  bird,  a  natural 
requisite  for  individuals  that  have  such  an  extent  of  water 
to  traverse,  and  frequently  heavy  squalls  to  encounter 
and  fight  against.  The  stomach,  or  pouch,  resembled  a 
leather  purse  of  four  inches  in  length  and  was  much  dis- 
tended by  the  contents,  which  were  a  compound  of  fishes 
of  different  kinds,  some  almost  entire,  others  more  or  less 
digested.  The  gullet  was  capable  of  great  extension. 
Fishes  two  and  a  half  inches  by  one  inch  were  found 
nearly  fresh.  The  flesh  of  these  Petrels  smelt  strong,  and 
was  tough  and  not  fit  to  eat.  I  tasted  some,  and  found 
it  to  resemble  the  flesh  of  the  Porpoise.     There  was  no 


.-^jti- 


m^ 


m 


ii 


1: 


90 


AUDUBON 


ill 


difference  in  the  sexes,  either  in  size  or  color;  they  are 
sooty  black  above,  and  snowy  white  below.  The  exact 
measurements  are  in  my  memorandum-book. 

June  29.  This  ni  ^rning  we  came  up  with  the  ship 
"Thalia,"  of  Philadel  )hia,  Captain  John  R.  Butler,  from 
Havana  to  Minorca  up  the  Mediterranean,  with  many 
passengers,  Spaniards,  on  board.  The  captain  very 
politely  offered  us  some  fruit,  which  was  gladly  accepted, 
and  in  return  we  sent  them  a  large  Dolphin,  they  having 
caught  none.  I  sent  a  Petrel,  stuffed  some  days  previ- 
ously, as  the  captain  asked  for  it  for  the  Philadelphia 
Society  of  Sciences. 

June  SO.  Whilst  sailing  under  a  gentle  breeze  last 
night,  the  bird  commonly  called  by  seamen  "Noddy" 
alighted  on  the  boom  of  the  vessel,  and  was  very  soon 
caught  by  the  mate.  It  then  uttered  a  rough  cry,  not 
unlike  that  of  a  young  crow  when  taken  from  the  nest. 
It  bit  severely  and  with  quickly  renewed  movement  of 
the  bill,  which,  when  it  missed  the  object  in  view,  snapped 
like  that  of  our  larger  Flycatchers.  I  found  it  one  of  the 
same  species  that  hovered  over  the  seaweeds  in  company 
with  the  large  Petrel.  Having  kept  it  alive  during  the 
night,  when  I  took  It  in  hand  to  draw  it  it  was  dull  look- . 
ing  and  silent.  I  know  nothing  of  tliis  bird  more  than 
what  our  sailors  say,  that  it  is  a  Noddy,  and  that  they 
often  alight  on  vessels  in  this  latitude,  particularly  in  the 
neighborhood  of  the  Florida  Keys.  The  bird  was  in 
beautiful  plumage,  but  poor.  The  gullet  was  capable  of 
great  extension,  the  paunch  was  empty,  the  heart  large  for 
the  bird,  and  the  liver  uncommonly  so. 

A  short  time  before  the  capture  of  the  above  bird,  a 
vessel  of  war,  a  ship  that  we  all  supposed  to  be  a  South 
American  Republican,  or  Columbian,  came  between  us 
and  the  "  Thalia,"  then  distant  from  us  about  one  and  a 
half  miles  astern,  fired  a  gun,  and  detained  her  for  some 
time,  the  reason  probably  being  that  the  passengers  were 


% 
mc 

Th. 

MS 

day 

l>0i| 

from 

of  ult 

'n^  to 

vvatche 

e^emen; 

J  felt  b, 

"re  in  , 

allured  I 

VVeha 
^'^S  and  M 
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children, 
visit  not  o] 
ihc  intentl 
^"ler/ca.'T 
chores,  th(i 
^3^e  ever 
farewell!  fl 

y^'^y  9 

^""e  the  fj 
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f  America] 
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w 


>P'" 


r//E  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


91 


Spaniards,  and  the  cargo  Spanish  property ;  however,  this 
morning  both  vessels  were  in  view  making  different  routes. 
The  man-of-war  deigned  not  to  come  to  us,  and  none  of 
us  were  much  vexed  at  this  mark  of  inattention.  This 
day  has  been  calm ;  my  drawing  finished,  I  caught  four 
Dolphins  ;  how  much  I  have  gazed  at  these  beautiful  creat- 
ures, watching  their  last  moments  of  life,  as  they  changed 
their  hue  in  twenty  varieties  of  richest  arrangement  of  tints, 
from  burnished  gold  to  silver  bright,  mixed  with  touches 
of  ultramarine,  rose,  green,  bronze,  royal  purple,  quiver- 
ing to  death  on  our  hard,  broiling  deck.  As  I  stood  and 
watched  them,  I  longed  to  restore  them  to  their  native 
element  in  all  their  original  strength  and  vitality,  and  yet 
I  felt  but  a  few  moments  before  a  peculiar  sense  of  pleas- 
ure in  catching  them  with  a  hook  to  which  they  were 
allured  by  false  pretences. 

We  have  at  last  entered  the  Atlantic  Ocean  this  morn- 
ing and  with  a  propitious  breeze ;  the  land  birds  have  left 
us,  and  I  —  I  leave  my  beloved  America,  my  wife,  my 
children,  my  friends.  The  purpose  of  this  voyage  is  to 
visit  not  only  England,  but  the  continent  of  Europe,  with 
the  intention  of  publishing  my  work  on  the  "  Birds  of 
America."  If  not  sadly  disappointed  my  return  to  these 
shores,  these  happy  shores,  will  be  the  brightest  day  I 
have  ever  enjoyed.  Oh  !  wife,  children,  friends,  America, 
farewell !  farewell  I 

July  9.  At  sea.  My  leaving  America  had  for  some 
time  the  feelings  of  a  dream ;  I  could  scarce  make  up 
my  mind  fixedly  on  the  subject.  I  thought  continually 
1  still  saw  my  beloved  friends,  and  my  dear  wife  and  cliil- 
dren.  I  still  felt  every  morning  when  I  awoke  that  the  land 
of  America  was  beneath  me,  and  that  I  would  in  a  short 
time  throw  myself  on  the  ground  in  her  shady  woods, 
and  watch  for,  and  listen  to  the  many  lovely  warblers. 
But  now  that  I  have  positively  been  at  sea  since  fifty-one 
days,  tossing  to  and  fro,  without  the  sight  or  the  touch  of 


:l   ■  * 


m 


AUDUBON 


those  dear  to  me,  I  feel  fully  convinced,  and  look  forward 
with  an  anxiety  such  as  I  never  felt  before,  when  I 
calculate  that  not  less  than  four  months,  the  third  of  a 
year,  must  elapse  before  my  wife  and  children  can  receive 
any  tidings  of  my  arrival  on  the  dista.it  shores  to  which  I 
am  bound.  When  I  think  that  many  more  months  must 
run  from  the  Life's  sand-glass  allotted  to  my  existence 
before  I  can  think  of  returning,  and  that  my  re-union  with 
my  friends  and  country  is  yet  an  unfolded  and  unknown 
event,  I  am  filled  with  sudden  apprehensions  which  I  can- 
not describe  nor  dispel. 

Our  fourth  of  July  was  passed  near  the  Grand  Banks, 
and  how  differently  from  any  that  I  can  recollect.     The 
weather  was  thick,  foggy,  and  as  dull  as  myself;    not  a 
sound  of  rejoicing  reached  my  ears,  not  once  did  I  hear 
"  Hail   Columbia !    Happy  land."      My  companion   pas- 
sengers lay  about  the  deck  and  on  the  cotton-bales,  bask- 
ing like  Crocodiles,  while   the   sun   occasionally   peeped 
out  of  the  smoky  haze  that  surrounded  us ;  yet  the  breeze 
was  strong,  the  waves  moved  majestically,  and  thousands 
of  large  Petrels  displayed  their  elegant,  aerial  movements. 
How  much  I  envied  their  power  of  flight  to  enable  me  to 
be  here,  there,  and  all  over  the  globe  comparatively  speak- 
ing, in   a   few   moments,  throwing   themselves   edgeways 
against  the  breeze,  as  if  a  well  sharpened  arrow  shot  with 
the  strength  and  grace  of  one  sprung  from  the  bow  of  an 
Apollo.     I  had  remarked  a  regular  increase  in  the  number 
of  these  Petrels  ever   since   the    capes   of  Florida  were 
passed ;  but  here  they  were  so  numerous,  and  for  part  of 
a   day   flew    in   such    succession   towards    the   west  and 
southwest,  that  I  concluded  they  were  migrating  to  some 
well  known  shore  to  deposit  their  eggs,  or  perhaps  leading 
their  young.     These  very  seldom  alighted ;  they  were  full 
the  size  of  a  common  gull,  and  as  they  flew  they  showed 
in  quick  alternations  the  whole  upper  and  under  part  of 
their  bodies,  sometimes  skimming  low,  sometimes  taking 


the 

as 

vvh/i 

and 

oft/] 

one  ( 

^irds  \ 

S3' I  i 

as  com 

Mother 

As  SI 

'"ounta; 

^ce/and, 

3nd  the  d 

a^ivays  s/e 

°^  tvvo  evi 

'^'sagreeab 
oncers,  an 

^  ^^n  eas/J 

^  "^Kam 

,  ^^  Seal 

^^^^e  that] 

r'"'    This! 

"'^'''  far  ml 
!;;Perfenced.| 

t«an  ever. 
T,^'"°ngoul 

,  y  °^ts  of  J 


1.  :    H 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


93 


immense  curves,  then  dashing  along  the  deep  trough  of 
the  sea,  going  round  our  vessel  (always  out  of  gun-reach) 
as  if  she  had  been  at  anchor.  Their  lower  parts  are 
white,  the  head  all  white,  and  the  upper  part  of  the  body 
and  wings  above  sooty  brown.  I  would  imagine  that  one 
of  these  Petrels  flies  over  as  much  distance  in  one  hour,  as 
one  of  the  little  black  Petrels  in  our  wake  does  in  twelve. 
Since  we  have  left  the  neighborhood  of  the  Banks,  these 
birds  have  gradually  disappeared,  and  now  in  latitude  44°, 
53'  I  see  none.  Our  captain  and  sailors  speak  of  them 
as  companions  in  storms,  as  much  as  their  little  relations 
Mother  Carey's  chickens. 

As  suddenly  as  if  we  had  just  turned  the  summit  of  a 
mountain  dividing  a  country  south  of  the  equator  from 
Iceland,  the  weather  altered  in  the  present  latitude  and 
longitude.  My  light  summer  clothing  was  not  sufficient, 
and  the  dews  that  fell  at  night  rendered  the  deck,  where  I 
always  slept,  too  damp  to  be  comfortable.  This,  however, 
of  two  evils  I  preferred,  for  I  could  not  endure  the  more 
disagreeable  odors  of  the  cabin,  where  now  the  captain, 
officers,  and  Mr.  Swift,  eat  their  meals  daily.  The  length 
of  the  days  has  increased  astonishingly ;  at  nine  o'clock 

1  can  easily  read  large  print.     Dawn  comes  shortly  after 

2  A.M.,  and  a  long  day  is  before  us. 

At  Sea  —  July,  1826.  We  had  several  days  a  stiff 
breeze  that  wafted  us  over  the  deep  fully  nine  miles  an 
hour.  This  was  congenial  to  my  wishes,  but  not  to  my 
feelings.  The  motion  of  the  vessel  caused  violent  head- 
aches, far  more  distressing  than  any  seasickness  I  had  ever 
experienced.  Now,  for  the  third  or  fourth  time,  I  read 
Thomson's  "  Seasons,"  and  I  believe  enjoyed  them  better 
than  ever. 

Among  our  live  stock  on  board,  we  had  a  large  hen. 
This  bird  was  very  tame  and  quite  familiar  with  the  ins 
and  outs  of  the  vessel,  and  was  allowed  all  the  privileges 
of  the  deck.    She  had  been  hatched  on  board,  and  our 


1    I 


m 


A  UDUBON 


^^ . "TTwas  much  attached 

cooU,who  Can-d  her  as  Ws^P«P«y;   ^"^  ^ Z^ 

'°  r:;t,r«rov:bot;,«hne  w-^/ireVr: 

prudently  tiew  immediately 

Anxiously  looked  at  her  ?'»'-=  °^^„  „„  board  seemed  to 
Z.  was  picked  up,  ^"-l  ''^^f  g,,,-,fied  to  see  such  U.nd 
,      «   pverv  one,  and   1  wab  &  needed  that 

pease   every  "  .     assured  me,  nao   i  u^npr 

"-""^"'  \:..  t  lo  =  "  -"^'^  ''="^1   .  fe  -t 
assurance,  that  tne  ^^^^  however,  ended  her  m 

side  of  all  natures,     ^u  ^^^^^^^  ^^rrow  escape ;  she  agam 
distressingly  not  long  after  th  ^^  ^^^     ^nots^ 

flew  over  the  side,  and  the  smp  ^^^„y   and 

th     sea  very  high   and  ^tX-^^-^  '^  ^^^'  ^'^  "I" 
lUr  the  captain  thought  it  imp     ,     .^j^gs  of  the  cook, 

IteTo^trin-^-;^^^^^^^ 

';„rcontained  three  P'-^^'^itturning  to  Amenca  ,n 
v^it  Mends,  with  the  .ntenfono^^^^  ^^   ^^^^^  ,^ 

the  autumn.  One  has  a  ^^^  ^^^^^,y  „„  ^he  flu« 
politely  offered  me  ,  he  py^^  ^i^^^j.on  We  hav 
;„,!  is  a  man  superior  to  his  app  ,.  ^and,  but 

r  JL:  also;  this  P"-:i;     sut  is  spent  sleeping; 

'''^'^ntr'TWs  -"    ^-=^"'  >t   whet:     cale^ 
^Vie  windlass,     i"'^'  TTg   ^vorks  wnenevci 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


95 


not  remember  ever  to  have  seen  a  man  more  industrious 
or  more  apt  at  doing  nearly  everything  he  needs  himself. 
He  is  a  skilful  carpenter  and  turner,  cooper,  tin  and  black 
smith,  and  an  excellent  tailor;  I  saw  him  making  a  pair 
of  pantaloons  of  fine  cloth  with  all  the  neatness  that  a  city 
brother  of  the  cross-legged  faculty  could  have  used.  He 
made  a  handsome  patent  swift  for  his  wife,  and  a  beautiful 
plane  for  his  own  use,  manufactured  out  of  a  piece  of  beech- 
wood  that  probably  grew  on  the  banks  of  the  Ohio,  as  I 
perceived  it  had  been  part  of  a  flat-boat,  and  brought  on 
board  to  be  used  for  fuel.  He  can  plait  straw  in  all 
sorts  of  ways,  and  make  excellent  bearded  fishhooks  out  of 
common  needles.  He  is  an  excellent  sailor,  and  the  more 
stormy  it  becomes,  the  gayer  he  is,  even  when  drenched  to 
the  skin.  I  was  desirous  of  understanding  the  means  of 
ascertaining  the  latitude  on  land,  and  also  to  find  the 
true  rising  of  the  sun  whilst  travelling  in  the  uninhabited 
parts  of  America ;  this  he  showed  me  with  pleasure,  and  I 
calculated  our  latitude  and  longitude  from  this  time, 
though  not  usually  fond  of  mathematics.  To  keep  busy 
I  go  often  about  the  deck  pencil  in  hand,  sketching  the 
different  attitudes  of  the  sailors,  and  many  a  laugh  is 
caused  by  these  rough  drawings.  Both  the  mates  have 
shown  a  kindness  towards  me  that  I  cannot  forget.  The 
first  mate  is  S.  L.  Bragdon  from  Wells,  the  second  Wm. 
Hobart  from  Kennebunk. 

To-day  we  came  in  with  a  new  set  and  species  of  Petrels, 
resembling  those  in  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  but  considerably 
larger;  between  fifty  and  sixty  were  at  one  time  close  to 
the  vessel,  catching  small  fish  that  we  guessed  to  be  her- 
rings; the  birds  swam  swiftly  over  the  water,  their  wings 
raised,  and  now  and  then  diving  and  dipping  after  the 
small  fry ;  they  flew  heavily,  and  with  apparent  reluctance, 
and  alighted  as  soon  as  we  passed  them.  I  was  satisfied 
that  several  in  our  wake  had  followed  us  from  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico;  the  sudden  change  in  the  weather  must  have 
been  seriously  felt  by  them. 


-t  ''  ••I 


«.1 


1    1 


96 


AUDUBON 


July  12.  I  had  a  beautiful  view  of  a  Whale  about  five 
hundred  yards  from  the  vessel  when  we  first  perceived  it; 
the  water  thrown  from  his  spiracles  had  the  appearance  of 
a  small,  thick  cloud,  twelve  or  fourteen  feet  wide.  Never 
have  I  felt  the  weather  so  cold  in  July.  We  are  well 
wrapped  up,  and  yet  feel  chilly  in  the  drizzling  rain. 

July  U).  Yesterday-night  ended  the  ninth  Sunday 
passed  at  sea;  the  weather  continues  cold,  but  the  wind  is 
propitious.  We  are  approaching  land,  and  indeed  I 
thought  I  smelt  the  "land  smell."  We  have  had  many 
Whales  near  us  during  the  day,  and  an  immense  number  of 
Porpoises ;  our  captain,  who  prefers  their  flesh  to  the  best 
of  veal,  beef,  or  mutton,  said  he  would  give  five  dollars  for 
one ;  but  our  harpoon  is  broken,  and  although  several 
handles  were  fastened  for  a  while  to  the  grain,  the  weapon 
proved  too  light,  and  the  fish  invariably  made  their  escape 
after  a  few  bounces,  probably  to  go  and  die  in  misery. 
European  Hawks  were  seen,  and  two  Curlews;  these 
gave  me  hope  that  we  might  see  the  long  desired  land 
shortly. 

Jtily  18,  1826.  The  sun  is  shining  clear  over  Ireland; 
that  land  was  seen  at  three  o'clock  this  morning  by  the 
man  at  the  helm,  and  the  mate,  with  a  stentorian  voice, 
announced  the  news.  As  we  approached  the  coast  a 
small  boat  neared  us,  and  came  close  under  our  lee;  the 
boat  looked  somewhat  like  those  employed  in  bringing  in 
heavy  loads  to  New  Orleans,  but  her  sails  were  more 
tattered,  her  men  more  fair  in  complexion.  They  hailed 
us  and  offered  for  sale  fresh  fish,  new  potatoes,  fresh  eggs. 
All  were  acceptable,  I  assure  thee.  They  threw  a  light 
line  to  us  most  dexterously.  Fish,  potatoes,  and  eggs  were 
passed  to  us,  in  exchange  for  whiskey,  salt  pork,  and  to- 
bacco, which  were,  I  trust,  as  acceptable  to  them  as  their 
wares  were  to  us.  I  thought  the  exchange  a  fair  one,  but 
no !  —  they  called  for  rum,  brandy,  whiskey,  more  of  every- 
thing.   Their  expressions  struck  me  with  wonder ;  it  was 


sue 

fres, 

to-/r 

morr 

S/. 

'"S  V, 

abrcas 

hedges 

f^»<-*  con 

O'"-  fine 

'''^Preseni 

country,  J 
^^e  renow 
^<^otiand,  , 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


97 


'•  Here  's  to  your  Honor," —  "  Long  life  to  your  Honor," 
—  "God  bless  your  Honor," — Honors  followed  with 
such  rapidity  that  I  turned  away  in  disgust.  The  breeze 
freshened  and  we  proceeded  fast  on  our  way.  Perhaps 
to-morrow  may  see  me  safe  on  land  again  —  perhaps  to- 
morrow may  see  us  all  stranded,  perishing  where  the 
beautiful  "Albion"  went  ashore. 

St.  George's  Channel,  Thursday,  July  20.    lam  approach- 
ing very   fast   the   shores    of  England,  indeed   Wales  is 
abreast   of  our  ship,  and  we  can  plainly  distinguish  the 
hedges  that  divide  the  fields  of  grain  ;   but  what  nakedness 
the  country  exhibits,  scarce  a  patch  of  timber  to  be  seen  ; 
our  fine  forests  of  pine,  of  oak,  of  heavy  walnut-trees,  of 
magnificent  magnolias,  of  hickories  or  ash  or  maple,  are 
represented  here  by  a  diminutive  growth  called   "  furze." 
But  I  must  not  criticise  so  soon !     I  have  not  seen  the 
country,  I  have  not  visited  any  of  the  historic  castles,  or 
the  renowned  parks,  for  never  have  I  been  in  England  nor 
Scotland,  that  land  made  famous  by  the  entrancing  works 
of  Walter    Scott.      We    passed    yesterday   morning   the 
Tuskar,  a  handsome  light  on  a  bare  rock.     This  morning 
we  saw  Holyhead,  and  we  are  now  not  more  than  twenty- 
five  miles  from  Liverpool ;    but  I   feel  no  pleasure,  and 
were  it  not  for  the  sake  of  my  Lucy  and  my  children,  I 
would  readily  embark  to-morrow  to  return  to  America's 
shores  and  all  they  hold  for  me.  .  .  .     The  pilot  boat  that 
came  to  us  this  morning  contained  several  men  all  dressed 
in  blue,  with  overcoats  of  oiled  linen,  —  all  good,  hearty, 
healthy-looking  men.  ...    I  have  been  on  deck,  and  from 
the  bow  the  land  of  England  is  plainly  distinguishable; 
the  sight  around  us  is  a  beautiful  one,  I  have  counted 
fifty-six  vessels  with  spreading  sails,  and  on  our  right  are 
mountains  fading   into   the   horizon;     my   dull   thoughts 
have  all  abandoned  me,  I  am  elated,  my  heart  is  filled 
I  with  hope.     To-morrow  we  shall  land  at  the  city  of  Liver- 
|Pool,  but  when  I  think  of  Custom  House  officials,  accep- 

VOL.  I.  — 7 


■} 


\\ 


\ 


98 


AUDUBON 


tancy  of  Bills,  hunting  up  lodgings,  —  again  my  heart  fails 
me;  I  must  on  deck. 

Mersey  River  opposite  Liverpool,  9.30  P.M.  The  night 
is  cloudy,  and  we  are  at  anchor !  The  lights  of  the  city 
show  brightly,  for  we  are  not  more  than  two  hundred 
yards  distant  from  them. 

Liverpool,  July  21.     This   morning  when   I  landed  it 
was  raining,  yet  the  appearance  of  the  city  was  agree- 
able;   but  no  sooner  had  I  entered  it  than  the  smoke 
became  so  oppressive  to  my  lungs  that  I    could    hardly 
breathe;   it  affected  my  eyes  also.     All  was  new  to  me. 
After  a  breakfast  at  an  inn  with  Mr.  Swift  for  2/6,  we  went 
to  the  Exchange  Buildings,  to  the  counting-house  of  Gor- 
don and  Forstall,  as  I  was  anxious  to  deliver  my  letters 
to  Mr.  Gordon  from  Mr.  Briggs.     I  also  presented  during 
the  morning  my  bill  of  exchange.     The  rest  of  the  day 
was  spent  in   going  to  the  Museum,  gazing   about,  and 
clearing  my  brains  as  much  as  possible ;  but  how  lonely  I 
feel,  —  not  a  soul  to  speak  to  freely  when  Mr.  Swift  leaves 
me  for  Ireland.     We  took  lodgings  at  the  Commercial  Inn 
not  far  from  the  Exchange  Buildings;  we  are  well  fed,  and 
well  attended  to,  although,  to  my  surprise,  altogether  by 
women,  neatly  dressed  and  modest.     I  found  the  persons 
of  whom   I  enquired  for  different  directions,  remarKably 
kind  and  polite ;  I  had  been  told  this  would  not  be  the 
case,  but  I  have  met  with  on  V  real  politeness  from  all. 

Liverpool,  July  9,2.  Th>^  Lark  that  sings  so  sweetly, 
and  that  now  awakened  iro  fi'..'ia  happy  dreams,  is  nearly 
opposite  my  table,  prisoner  ir  a  cage  hanging  by  a  win- 
dow where  from  time  to  time  a  young  person  comes  to 
look  on  the  world  below ;  I  think  of  the  world  of  the 
West  and  —  but  the  Lark,  delightful  creature,  sings  sweetly, 
yet  in  a  cage  ! 

The  Custom  House  suddenly  entered   my  head,  and 
after  considerable  delay  there,  my  drawings  went  through 
a  regular,  strict,  and  complete  eximination.     The  officersj 


/; 

ei 

ht 

wa 

fo 

stai 

ofte 

I  ot 

as  a 

bone 

vv/tii  J 

Sun 
long  a 

njonien 
Was  bee 

SiWft  an 
vvards  ki 
heading 
"oon  We  I 
^"^at  dulll 

yiliy 
,    '  ^'-  W;r 

'"'^'"Prepa/ 
'"""gsubscn-J 
f,'"gratefJ 


?H 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


99 


were  all  of  opinion  that  they  were  free  of  duty,  but  the 
law  was  looked  at  and  I  was  obliged  to  pay  two  pence  on 
each  drawing,  as  they  were  water-colored.  My  books 
being  American,  I  paid  four  ^^^wc^  per  pound,  and  when  all 
was  settled,  I  took  my  baggage  and  drawings,  and  went 
to  my  lodgings.  The  noise  of  pattens  on  the  sidewalk 
startles  me  very  frequently;  if  the  sound  is  behind  me  I 
often  turn  my  head  expecting  to  see  a  horse,  but  instead 
I  observe  a  neat,  plump-looking  maid,  tripping  as  briskly 
as  a  Killdeer.  I  received  a  polite  note  from  Mr.  Rath- 
bone  '  this  morning,  inviting  me  to  dine  next  Wednesday 
with  him  and  Mr.  Roscoe.^  I  shall  not  forget  the  appoint- 
ment. 

Sunday,  July  23.  Being  Sunday  I  must  expect  a 
long  and  lonely  day ;  I  woke  at  dawn  and  lay  for  a  few 
moments  only,  listening  to  the  sweet-voiced  Lark ;  the  day 
was  beautiful;  thermometer  in  the  sun  65°,  in  the  shade 
41° ;  I  might  say  40°,  but  I  love  odd  numbers,  —  it  is  a  fool- 
ish superstition  with  me.  I  spent  my  forenoon  with  Mr. 
Swift  and  a  friend  of  his,  Mr.  R.  Lyons,  who  was  after- 
wards kind  enough  to  introduce  us  to  the  Commercial 
Reading  Room  at  the  Exchange  Buildings.  In  the  after- 
noon we  went  across  the  Mersey.  The  country  is  some- 
what dull ;  we  returned  to  supper-  sat  chatting  in  the  coflfee 
room,  and  the  day  ended. 

July  24,  Monday.     As   early  as   I   thought  proper  I 

1  Mr.  Wm.  Rathbone,  of  the  firm  of  Rathbone  Bros.  &  Co.,  to  whom 
Audubon  had  a  letter  from  Mr.  Vincent  Nolt^.  To  Messrs.  Wm.  and 
Richard  Rathbone,  and  their  father  Wm.  Rathbone,  Sr.,  Audubon  was  more 
deeply  indebted  than  to  any  other  of  his  many  kind  friends  in  England. 
Their  hospitality  was  only  equalled  by  their  constant  and  valuable  assist- 
ance in  preparing  for  the  publication  of  the  "  Birds,"  and  when  this  was  an 
assured  fact,  they  were  unresting  in  their  efforts  to  aid  Audubon  in  pro- 
curing subscribers.  It  is  with  pleasure  that  Audubon's  descendants  to-day 
acknowledge  this  indebtedness  to  the  "family  Rathbone,"  which  is  ever 
held  in  grateful  remembrance. 

'  William  Roscoe,  historical,  botanical,  and  miscellaneous  writer,  1753- 
1831. 


.1:1 


'1      • 
■  I    1 


100 


AUDUBON 


\a 


turned  my  steps  to  No.  87  Duke  Street,  where  the  polite 
English  gentleman,  Mr.  Richard  Rathbone,^  resides.  My 
locks  blew  freely  from  under  my  hat  in  the  breeze,  and 
nearly  every  lady  I  met  looked  at  them  with  curiosity. 
Mr.  Rathbone  was  not  in,  but  was  at  his  counting-house, 
where  I  soon  found  myself.  A  full  dozen  of  clerks  were 
at  their  separate  desks,  work  was  going  on  apace,  letters 
were  being  thrown  into  an  immense  bag  belonging  to  a 
packet  that  sailed  this  day  for  the  shores  where  I  hope  my 
Lucy  is  happy  —  dearest  friend !  My  name  was  taken 
to  the  special  room  of  Mr.  Rathbone,  and  in  a  moment  I 
was  met  by  one  who  acted  towards  me  as  a  brother.  He 
did  not  give  his  card  to  poor  Audubon,  he  gave  his  hand, 
and  a  most  cordial  invitation  to  be  at  his  house  at  two 
o'clock,  which  hour  found  me  there.  I  was  ushered  into  a 
handsome  dining-room,  and  Mr.  Rathbone  almost  imme- 
diately entered  the  same,  with  a  most  hearty  greeting. 
I  dined  with  this  hospitable  man,  his  charming  wife  and 
children.     Mrs.  Rathbone  is  not  only  an  amiable  woman, 

1  In  a  charming  letter  written  to  me  by  Mr.  Richard  R.  Rathbone,  son  of 
this  gentleman,  dated  Glan  y  Menai,  Anglesey,  May   14,  1897,  he  says: 
"  To  us  there  was  a  halo  of  romance  about  Mr.  Audubon,  artist,  naturalist, 
quondam  backwoodsman,  and  the  author  of  that  splendid  work  which  I  used 
to  see  on  a  table  constructed  to  hold  the  copy  belonging  to  my  Uncle 
William,  opening  with  hinges  s     as  to  raise  the  bird  portraits  as  if  on  a 
desk.     But  still  more  I  remember  his  amiable  character,  though  tinged  with 
melancholy  by  past  sufferings ;  and  his  beautiful,  expressive  face,  kept  alive 
in  my  memory  by  his  autograph  crayon  sketch  thereof,  in  profile,  with  the 
words  written  at  foot,  '  Audubon  at  Green  Bank.    Almost  happy,  9th  Sep- 
tember, 1826.'     Mr.  Audubon  painted  for  my  father,  as  a  gift,  an  Otter  (in 
oils)  caught  by  the  fore-foot  in  a  steel  trap,  and  after  vainly  gnawing  at 
the  foot  to  release  himself,  throwing  up  his  head,  probably  with  a  yell  of 
agony,  and  displaying  his  wide-open  jaws  dripping  with  blood.     This  pic- 
ture hung  on  our  walls  for  years,  until  my  mother  could  no  longer  bear  the 
horror  of  it,  and  persuaded  my  father  to  part  with  it.     We  also  had  a  full- 
length,  life-sized  portrait  of  the  American  Turkey,   striding  through  the 
forest.    Both  pictures  went  to  a  public  collection  in  Liverpool.     I  have  also 
a  colored  sketch  by  Mr.  Audubon  of  a  Robin  Redbreast,  shot  by  him  a; 
Green  Bank,  which  I  saw  him  pin  with  long  pins  into  a  bit  of  board  to  fi^ 
it  into  position  for  the  instruction  of  my  mother." 


i^ai 

see 

duct 

3.nd  o 
pooia 
past  fi 

'"^  I  n 
'^effan  ,1 

me.    He 
Portfo;/os 
^°^^ch  and 
[y^Q  au'ai 
bone,  Sr.,  ■ 
young-cst  / 
^  ^0  him, 
country  opJ 
'"S-  ^-^p  an 
^'"^'■ab/e  pk 
P^'nfuUy  a? 

^°  much  ki 
'''''•    Isav 

f3"§^cd.     , 
^^'^  ^ftese  J 

'"''  more  ij 


T 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


lOI 


but  a  most  intelligent  and  highly  educated  one.  Mr. 
Rathbone  took  me  to  the  Exchange  Buildings  in  order  to 
see  the  American  consul,  Mr.  Maury,  and  others.  Intro- 
duction followed  introduction ;  then  I  was  taken  through 
the  entire  building,  the  mayor's  public  dining-hall,  etc. 
I  gazed  on  pictures  of  royalty  by  Sir  Thomas  Lawrence 
and  others,  mounted  to  the  dome  and  looked  over  Liver- 
pool and  the  harbor  that  Nature  formed  for  her.  It  was 
past  five  when  I  went  to  keep  my  appointment  with  Mr. 
Swift. 

July  25.     The  day  has  passed  quickly.     In  the  morn- 
ing I  made  a  crayon  portrait   of  Mr.  Swift — or   rather 
began  it  —  for   his  father,  then  took  a  walk,  and  on   my 
return  found  a  note  from  Mr.  Richard   Rathbone  awaiting 
me.     He  desired  me  to  come  at  once   with  one  of  my 
portfolios  to  Duke  Street.     I  immediately  took  a  hackney 
coach  and  found  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Rathbone  with  Mr.  James 
Pyke  awaiting  me,  to  take  me  to  the  home  of  Mr.  Rath- 
bone, Sr.,  who  lives  some  miles  out  of  Liverpool.^     Their 
youngest  boy,  Basil,  a  sweet  child,  took  a  fancy  to  me  and 
I  to  him,  and  we  made  friends  during  our  drive.     The 
country  opened  gradually  to  our  view,  and  presently  pass- 
ing up  an  avenue  of  trees  we  entered  the  abode  of  the 
venerable  pair,  and  I  was  heartily  made  welcome.     I  felt 
painfully  awkward,  as  I  always  do  in  new  company,  but 
so  much  kindness  and  simplicity  soon  made  me  more  at 
ease.    I  saw  as  I    entered  the  house  a  full   and  beautiful 
collection   of  the    birds   of  England,  well  prepared    and 
arranged.     What  sensations  I  had  whilst  I  helped  to  untie 
the  fastenings  of  my  portfolio !     I  knew  by  all  around  me 
that  these  good  friends  were  possessed  of  both  taste  and 
judgment,  and  I  did  not  know  that  I  should  please.     I 
was  panting  like  the  winged  Pheasant,  but  ah !  these  kind 
people  praised  my  Birds,  and  I  felt  the  praise  to  be  honest ; 
once  more  I   breathed  freely.     My  portfolio  thoroughly 

^  At  Green  Bank. 


^1  = 

id 


"  "I... 


'a 


1 02 


AUDUBON 


examined,  we  returned  to  Liverpool,  and  later  the  Rev. 
Wm.  Goddard,  rector  of  Liverpool,  and  several  ladies 
called  on  me,  and  saw  some  drawings ;  all  praised  them. 
Oh !  what  can  I  hope,  my  Lucy,  for  thee  and  for  us  all? 

July  26.     It  is  very  late,  and  I  am  tired,  but  I  will  not 
omit  writing  on  that  account.     The  morning  was  beautiful, 
but    for   some   reason   I   was   greatly   depressed,   and   it 
appeared  to   me  as  if  I  could  not  go  on  with  the  work 
before  me.     However,  I  recollected  that  the  venerable  Mr. 
Maury  must  not  be  forgotten.     I  saw  him ;    Mr.  Swift  left 
for  Dublin  with  his  crayon  portrait ;  I  called  at  the  post- 
office  for  news  from  America,  but  in  vain.     I   wrote  for 
some  time,  and  then  received  a  call  from  Mr.  Rathbone 
with  his  brother  William ;  the  latter  invited  me  to  dine  on 
Friday   at  his  house,   which  I  promised  to  do,  and  this 
evening  I  dined  with  Mr.  Rd.  Rathbone.     I  went  at  half- 
past  six,  my  heart  rather  failing  me,  entered  the  corridor, 
my  hat  was  taken,  and  going  upstairs  I  entered  Mr.  Rath- 
bone's  drawing-room.    I  have  frequently  thought  it  strange 
that  my  observatory  nerves  never  give  way,  no  matter  how 
much  I  am  overcome  by  mauvaise  honte,  nor  did  they  now. 
Many  pictures  embellished  the  walls,  and  helped,  with  Mr. 
Rathbone's  lively  mien,  to  remove  the  misery  of  the  mo- 
ment.    Mr.  Edward  Roscoe  came  in  immediately,  — tall, 
with   a  good  eye   under  a  well  marked   brow.      Dinner 
announced,  we  descended  to  the  room  I  had  entered  on  my 
first  acquaintance  with  this   charming  home,  and  I  was 
conducted  to  the  place  of  honor.     Mr.   Roscoe  sat  next, 
Mr.  Barclay  of  London,  and  Mr.  Melly  opposite  with  Consul 
Maury;  the  dinner  was  enlivened  with  mirth  and  bonmoti^ 
and   I   found   in   such   good   company   infinite   pleasure. 
After  we  lefc  the  table  Mrs.  Rathbone  joined  us  in  the 
parlor,  and  I  had  now  again  to  show  my  drawings.    Mr. 
Roscoe,  who  had  been  talking  to  me  about  them  at  dinner, 
would  not  give  me  any  hopes,  and  I  felt  unusually  gloomy 
as  one  by  one  I  slipped  them  from  their  case ;  but  after 


ioo 

A\n 

bide 

row, 

bone 

put  a 

yn. 

a  half 

and  vv; 

vvas  na 

Piant  r 

many  fl 

many  ^ 
^vere  inti 
dens,     y^ 

Me  car, 
see/tp,,]/ 

3^e^y,  and 

^hole  of  . 

fine  order.! 

^"%icept;l 

advanced  / 

On  our  retj 

^^e  large 

'vith  the  del 

3nd  I  saw 

'"^de  knov 

^°scoe  is  vj 

^'y  ^0  introa 
"i^siiou/d  d 

° '^'^ck  whet 
him  at  his 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


103 


looking  at  a  few  only,  the  great  man  said  heartily:  "  Mr. 
Audubon,  I  am  filled  with  surprise  and  admiration."  On 
bidding  me  adieu  he  invited  me  to  dine  with  him  to-mor- 
row, and  to  visit  the  Botanical  Gardens.  Later  Mrs.  Rath- 
bone  showed  me  some  of  her  drawings,  where  talent  has 
put  an  undeniable  stamp  on  each  touch. 

July  27.     I  reached  Mr.  Roscoe's  place,  about  one  and 
a  half  miles  distant  from  Liverpool,  about  three  o'clock, 
and  was  at  once  shown  into  a  little  drawing-room  where  all 
was  nature.     Mr.  Roscoe   was  drawing  a  very  handsome 
plant  most  beautifully.     The  room  was  ornamented  with 
many  flowers,  receiving  from  his  hands  the  care  and  treat- 
ment they  required;  they  were  principally  exotics  from 
many  distant  and  different  climes.     His  three  daughters 
were  introduced  to  me,  and  we  then  started  for  the  Gar- 
dens.    Mr.  Roscoe  and  I  rode  there  in  what  he  called  his 
little  car,  drawn  by  a  pony  so  small  that  I  was  amazed  to 
see  it  pull  us  both  with  apparent  ease.     Mr.  Roscoe  is  a 
come-at-able  person,  who  makes  me  feel  at  home  immedi- 
ately, and  we  have  much  in  common.     I  was  shown  the 
whole  of  the  Gardens,  which  with  the  hot-house  were  in 
fine  order.     The  ground  is  level,  well  laid  out,  and  beauti- 
fully kept ;  but  the  season  was,  so  Mr.  Roscoe  said,  a  little 
advanced  for  me  to  see  the  place  to  the  best  advantage. 
On  our  return  to  the  charming  laboratoire  of  Mr.  Roscoe 
the  large  portfolio  is  again  in  sight.     I  will  not  weary  you 
with  the  details  of  this.     One  of  the  daughters  draws  well, 
and  I  saw  her  look  closely  at  me  very  often,  and  she  finally 
made  known   her   wish  to  take  a  sketch  of  my  head,  to 
which  I  gave  reluctant  consent  for  some  future  time.     Mr. 
Roscoe  is  very  anxious  I  should  do  well,  and  says  he  will 
try  to  introduce  me  to  Lord  Stanley,  and  assured  me  noth- 
ing should  be  left  undone  to  meet  my  wishes ;   he  told  me 
that  the  honorable  gentleman  "  is  rather  shy."     It  was  nine 
o'clock  when  I  said  good-night,  leaving  my  drawings  with 
him  at  his  request.     On  my  return  to  Dale  Street  I  found 


\l 


104 


AUDUBON 


the  following  note :  "  Mr.  Martin,  of  the  Royal  Institution 
of  Liverpool,  will  do  himself  the  pleasure  to  wait  upon  Mr. 
Ambro  to-morrow  at  eleven  o'clock."  ^Vhy  do  people 
make  such  errors  with  my  simple  name? 

July  28.     A  full  grown  man  with  a  scarlet  vest  and 
breeches,  black  stockings  and  shoes  for  the  coloring  of  his 
front,  and  a  long  blue  coat  covering  his  shoulders  and  back 
reminds  me  somewhat  of  our  summer  red  bird  (JTanagra 
rubra).    Both  man  and  bird  attract  the  eye,  but  the  scien- 
tific appellation  of  the  man  is  unknown  to  me.     At  eleven 
Mr.  Martin  (who  I  expect  is  secretary  to  the  Royal  Insti- 
tution) called,  and  arranged  with  me  a  notice  to  the  mem- 
bers of  the  Institution,  announcing  that  I  would  exhibit 
my  drawings  tor  two  hours  on  the  mornings  of  Monday, 
Tuesday,  and    Wednesday   following,   at   the   Institution. 
Later,  feeling  lonely  and  sad,  I  called  on  Mrs.  R.  Rathbone, 
whom  I  found  putting  away  in  a  little  box,  a  dissected 
map,  with  which,  Edgeworth-like,  she  had  been  transmit- 
ting knowledge  with  pleasure.     She  is  so  truly  delightful  a 
companion  that  had  it  been  possible  I  should  have  made 
my  call  long  instead  of  short,  but  I  walked  home  by  a 
roundabout  way,  and  found  a  note  from  Mr.  Wm.  Rath- 
bone  reminding  me  of  my  promise  to  dine  with  him,  and 
adding  that  he  wished  me  to  meet  a  brother-in-law  of  his 
from  London  who  may  be  of  use  to  me,  so  will  I  bring  a 
few  drawings?     At  the  hour  named  I  found   myself  in 
Abercrombic    Street   and    in   the    parlor   with   two    little 
daughters  of  my  host,  the  elder  about  thirteen,  extremely 
handsome.     Mrs.  Rathbone  soon  entered  and  greeted  me 
as  if  she  had  known  me  all  my  life ;  her  husband  followed, 
and  the  guests,  all  gentlemen,  collected.     Mr.  Hodgson, 
to  whom  I  had  a  letter  from  Mr.  Nolt^  ^  was  particularly 
kind  to  me,  but  every  one  seemed  desirous  I  should  suc- 
ceed in  England.     A  Swiss  gentleman  urged  me  not  to 
waste  time  here,  but  proceed  at  once  to  Paris,  but  he  was 
*  Vincent  Nolti,  bom  at  Leghorn,  1779,  traveller,  merchant,  adventurer. 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


105 


not  allowed  to  continue  his  argument,  and  at  ten  I  left 
with  Mr.  Pyke  for  my  lodgings. 

July  29.    To-day  I  visited  Mr.  Hunt,^  the  best  landscape 
painter  of  this  city.     I  examined  much  of  his  work  and 
found   some   beautiful  representations  of  the   scenery  of 
Wales.     I  went  to  the  Royal  Institution  to  judge  of  the 
light,  for  naturally  I  wish  my  work  to  have  every  possible 
advantage.     I  have  not  found  the  population  of  Liverpool 
as  dense  as  I  expected,  and  except  during  the  evenings 
(that  do  not  at  this  season  commence  before  eight  o'clock) 
I  have  not  been  at  all  annoyed  by  the  elbowings  of  the 
crowd,  as  I  remember  to  have  been  in  my  youth,  in  the 
large  cities  of  France.     Some  shops  here  are  beautifully 
supplied,  and  have  many  custon  ^rs.     The  new  market  is 
in  my  opinion  an  object  worth  the  attention  of  all  travel- 
ers.    It  is  the  finest  I  have  ever  seen  —  it  is  a  large,  high 
and  long  building,  divided  into  five  spacious  avenues,  each 
containing  its  specific  commodities.     I  saw  here  viands  of 
all  descriptions,  fish,  vegetables,  game,  fruits, — both  in- 
digenous and  imported  from  all  quarters  of  the  globe,  — 
bird  sellers,  with  even  little  collections  of  stuffed  speci- 
mens,  cheeses   of  enormous   size,  butter   in  great   abun- 
dance, immense  crates  of  hen's-eggs  packed  in  layers  of 
oats  imported  from  Ireland,  twenty-five  for  one  shilling. 
This  market  is  so  well  lighted  with  gas  that  this  evening 
at  ten  o'clock  I  could  plainly  see  the  colors  of  the  irids  of 
living  pigeons  in   cages.     The  whole  city  is  lighted  with 
gas;  each  shop  has  many  of  these  illuminating  fires,  and 
fine  cambric  can  be  looked  at  by  good  judges.     Mr.  A. 
Hodgson  called  on  me,  and   I  am  to  dine  with  him  on 
Monday  ;  he  has  written  to  Lord  Stanley  about  me.     He 
very  kindly  asked  if  my  time  passed  heavily,  gave  me  a 
note  of  admittance  for  the  Athenaeum,  and  told  me  he 
would  do  all  in  his  power  for  me.     I  dined  at  the  inn  to- 
day for  the  second  time  only  since  my  arrival. 
I  William  Henry  Hunt  (1790-1S64). 


1.^ 


I 


I 


io6 


A  UDUBON 


July  SO.  It  is  Sunday  again,  but  not  a  dull  one;  I  have 
become  better  acquainted,  and  do  not  feel  such  an  utter 
stranger.  I  went  to  the  church  of  the  Asylum  for  the  Blind. 
A  few  steps  of  cut  stone  lead  to  an  iron  gate,  and  under  a 
colonnade ;  at  the  inner  gate  you  pay  whatever  you  please 
over  sixpence.  Near  the  entrance  is  a  large  picture  of 
Christ  healing  the  blind.  The  general  structure  is  a  well 
proportioned  oblong;  ten  light  columns  support  the  flat 
ceiling.  A  fine  organ  is  placed  over  the  entrance  in  a 
kind  of  upper  lobby,  which  contains  also  the  musicians, 
who  are  blind.  All  is  silent,  and  the  mind  is  filled  with 
heavenly  thoughts,  when  suddenly  the  sublime  music  glides 
into  one's  whole  being,  and  the  service  has  begun.  No- 
where have  I  ever  seen  such  devotion  in  a  church.  In  the 
afternoon  the  Rev.  Wm.  Goddard  took  me  to  some  institu- 
tions for  children  on  the  Lancastrian  system ;  all  appeared 
well  dressed,  clean,  and  contented.  I  dined  with  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Gordon;^  Anne  advised  me  to  have  my  hair  cut,  and 
to  buy  a  fashionable  coat. 

July  31.  This  day  has  been  one  of  trial  to  me.  At 
nine  of  the  morning  I  was  quite  busy,  arranging  and  dis- 
posing in  sets  my  drawings,  that  they  might  be  inspected 
by  the  public.  The  doors  were  thrown  open  at  noon,  and 
the  ladies  flocked  in,.  I  knew  but  one,  Mrs.  Richard 
Rathbone,  but  I  had  many  glances  to  meet  and  questions 
to  answer.  The  time  passed,  however,  and  at  two  the 
doors  were  closed.  At  half-past  four  I  drove  with  Mr. 
Adam  Hodgson  to  his  cottage,  where  I  was  introduced  to 
Mrs.  Hodgson,  a  tall  young  woman  with  the  freshness  of 
spring,  who  greeted  me  most  kindly;  there  were  three 
other  guests,  and  we  passed  a  quiet  evening  after  the  usual 
excellent  dinner.     Soon  after  ten  we  retired  to  our  rooms. 

August  1.     I  arose  to  listen  to  the  voice  of  an  English 
Blackbird  just  as  the  day  broke.     It  was  a  little  after 
three,  I  d)-e<;sed ;  and  as  silently  as  in  my  power  moved 
^  Mrs.  Alexander  Gordon  was  Mrs.  Audubon's  sister  Anne. 


d 

t/ 

w, 

an 

tat 

dri 

Stiti 

son; 

Jnst 

my 

I  do 

given 

Were  ; 

nve  of 
'"oom  \ 


to 


pres 


and  Mi 
"  Green 
pictures] 
c'ecided 
there  as 
of  Manci 
^'n  that  c| 
^entienia) 
anxious  ti 
''^en  pret 

aiid/ence 

'»g  Was 
crowded 

Tijomasj 

'r'- edited  tl 

^'^f"'  with  tL 

The  Swis] 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


107 


downstairs  carrying  my  boots  in  my  hand,  gently  opened 
the  door,  and  was  off  to  the  fields  and  meadows.  I 
walked  a  good  deal,  went  to  the  seashore,  saw  a  Hare, 
and  returned  to  breakfast,  after  which  and  many  invi" 
tations  to  make  my  kind  hosts  frequent  visits,  I  was 
driven  back  to  town,  and  went  immediately  to  the  In- 
stitution, where  I  met  Dr.  TrailP  and  many  other  per- 
sons of  distinction.  Several  gentlemen  attached  to  the 
Institution,  wished  me  to  be  remunerated  for  exhibiting 
my  pictures,  but  though  I  am  poor  enough,  God  knows, 
I  do  not  think  I  should  do  that,  as  the  room  has  been 
given  to  me  gratis.  Four  hundred  and  thirteen  persons 
were  admitted  to  see  my  drawings. 

Aiigiist  2.  I  put  up  this  day  two  hundred  and  twenty- 
five  of  my  drawings ;  the  coup  d'aeil  was  not  bad,  and  the 
room  was  crowded.  Old  Mr.  Roscoe  did  me  the  honor 
to  present  me  to  Mr.  Jean  Sismondi,^  of  Geneva.  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Rathbone  had  gone  to  their  country  home, 
"  Green  Bank,"  but  I  sent  a  note  telling  them  how  many 
pictures  I  had  added  to  the  first  day's  exhibition.  I  have 
decided  to  collect  what  letters  I  can  for  London,  and  go 
there  as  soon  as  possible.  I  was  introduced  to  Mr.  Booth 
of  Manchester,  who  promised  me  whatever  aid  he  could 
in  that  city.  After  a  call  at  Mr.  Roscoe's,  I  went,  with  a 
gentleman  from  Charleston,  S.  C,  to  the  theatre,  as  I  was 
anxious  to  see  the  renowned  Miss  Foote.  Miss  Foote  has 
been  pretty,  nay,  handsome,  nay,  beautiful,  but  —  she  has 
been.  The  play  was  good,  the  playhouse  bad,  and  the 
audience  numerous  and  fashionable. 

August 4.  I  had  no  time  to  write  yesterday;  my  morn- 
ing was  spent  at  the  Institution,  the  room  was  again 
crowded,  I   was  wearied  with  bowing  to   the   many  to 

*  Thomas  Stewart  Traill,  M.  D.,  Scottish  naturalist,  born  in  Orkney, 
1781 ;  edited  the  eighth  edition  of  the  "  Enclyclopaedia  Britannica,"  was  asso- 
ciated with  the  Royal  Institute  at  Liverpool ;  he  died  1862. 

'  The  Swiss  historian,  born  at  Geneva,  1773,  died  1842. 


;      1 

■  ■! 

•      V- 

'  i    ?  ! 

"'■''  1 

\\  v^ 

:     % 

I  ^Xi 


io8 


AUDUBON 


whom  I  was  introduced.  Some  one  was  found  copying 
one  of  the  pictures,  but  the  doorkeeper,  an  alert  Scotch- 
man, saw  his  attempt,  turned  him  out,  and  tore  his  sketch. 
Mr.  A.  Hodgson  invited  me  to  dine  with  Lord  Stanley 
to-morrow  in  company  with  Mr.  Wm.  Roscoe,  Sr.  Mr. 
Sismondi  gave  me  a  letter  to  Baron  von  Humboldt,  and 
showed  me  a  valuable  collection  of  insects  from  Thibet, 
and  after  this  I  took  tea  with  Mr.  Roscoe. 

This  morning  I  breakfasted  with  Mr.  Hodgson,  and  met 
Mrs.  Wm.  Rathbone  somewhat  later  at  the  Institution; 
never  was  a  woman  better  able  to  please,  and  more  dis- 
posed to  do  so ;  a  woman  possessed  of  beauty,  good  sense, 
great  intelligence,  and  rare   manners,  with  a  candor  and 
sweetness  not  to  be  surpassed.     Mr.  William  Roscoe  sent 
his  carriage  for  me,  and  I  again  went  to  his  house,  where 
quite  a  large  company  had  assembled,  among  others  two 
botanists  who  knew  every  plant  and  flower,  and  were  most 
obliging  in  giving  me  much  delightful  information.     Hav- 
ing to  walk  to  "  Green  Bank,"  the  home  of  Mr.  William 
Rathbone,  Sr.,  I  left  Mr.  Roscoe's  at  sunset  (which  by  the 
way  was  beautiful).     The  evening  was  calm  and  lovely, 
and  I  soon  reached  the  avenue   of  trees  leading  to   the 
house  I  sought.     Almost  immediately  I  found  myself  on 
the  lawn  with  a  group  of  archers,  and  was  interested  in 
the  sport;  some  of  the  ladies  shot  very  well.     Mr.  Rath- 
bone, Sr.,  asked  me  much  about  Indians,  and  American 
trees,  the  latter  quite  unknown   here,  and  as  yet  I  have 
seen  none  larger  than  the  saplings  of  Louisiana.     When 
the  other  guests  had  left,  I  was  shown  the  new  work  on 
the  Birds  of  England ;  I  did  not  like  it  as  well  as  I  had 
hoped;    I  much  prefer  Thomas   Bewick.     Bewick  is  the 
Wilson  of  England. 

August  5.      Miss  Hannah   Rathbone  ^   drove  me  into 

Liverpool  with    great  speed.     Two   little  Welsh    ponies, 

well  matched,  drew  us  beautifully  in  a  carriage  which  is 

»  Daughter  of  Mr.  William  Rathbone,  Sr. ;  married  Dr.  William  Reynolds. 


h 
b( 

ma 

pec 

thcj 

hihi 

you; 

a  pa 

pack< 

Some 

^athh 

regard 

^'s  cot 

c'oor  o; 

doubt  t 

^een  the 

our  largt 

~~"  stood  I 
formed, 
came  to 
so.  and 

once  at  ^ 
^°''d  Stan 

^^<^'a/mm] 
^^^n  I  sal 

0"  the  floj 

^°'*^  Star] 
dinner  T  U 

°^  ^^omaJ 

'  Edward  f 
?'''  Secre  J 

"'''hip.  and 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


109 


the  young  lady's  special  property.     After  she  left  me  my 
head  was  full  of  Lord  Stanley.     I  am  a  very  poor  fool,  to 
be  sure,  to  be  troubled  at  the  idea  of  meeting  an  English 
gentleman,  when  those  I  have  met  have  been  in  kindness, 
manners,  talents,  all  I  could  desire,  far  more  than   I   ex- 
pected.    The  Misses  Roscoe  were  at  the  Institution,  where 
they   have    been  every  day  since    my  pictures  were  ex- 
hibited.    Mrs.  Wm.  Rathbone,  with   her  daughter — her 
younger  self — at  her  side,  was  also  there,  and  gave  me 
a  packet  of  letters  from  her  husband.     On  opening  this 
packet  later  I  found  the  letters  were  c^  stained  in  a  hand- 
some case,  suitable  for  my  pocket,  and  a  card  from  Mr. 
Rathbone  asking  me  to  use  it  as  a  token  of  his  affectionate 
regard.     In  the  afternoon  I  drove  with  Mr.  Hodgsun  to 
his  cottage,  and  while  chatting  with  his  amiable  wife  the 
door  opened  to  admit  Lord  Stanley.^     I  have  not  the  least 
doubt  that  if  my  head  had  been  looked  at,  it  would  have 
been  thought  to  be  the  body,  globularly  closed,  of  one  of 
our  largest  porcupines;  all  my  hair  —  and  I  have  enough 
—  stood   straight   on    end,  I    am   sure.     He   is   tall,  well 
formed,  made  for  activity,  simply  but  well  dr:.'ssed ;  he 
came  to  me  at  once,  bowing  to  Mrs.  Hodgson  as  he  did 
so,  and  taking  my  hand  in  his,  said :  "  Sir,  I  am  glad  to 
see  you."    Not  the  words  only,  but  his  manner  put  me  at 
once  at  my  ease.     My  drawings  were  soon  brought  out. 
Lord  Stanley  is  a  great  naturalist,  and  in  an  instant  he  was 
exclaiming  over  my  work,  "  Fine  !  "     "  Beautiful !  "    and 
when  I  saw  him  on  his  knees,  having  spread  my  drawings 
on  the  floor,  the  better  to  compare  them,  I  forgot  he  was 
Lord  Stanley,   I    knew  only   he   too   loved    Nature.     At 
dinner  I  looked  at  him  closely ;  his  manner  reminded  me 
of  Thomas   Sully,   his   forehead   would   have  suited   Dr. 

1  Edward,  fourteenth  Earl  of  Derby,  1 799-1869.  Member  of  Parliament, 
Chief  Secretary  for  Ireland,  Secretary  for  the  Colonies,  First  Lord  of  the 
Treasury,  and  Prime  Minister.  Translated  Homer's  Iliad  into  blank  verse. 
His  was  a  life  of  many  interests :  literature,  art,  society,  public  affairs,  sport- 
manship,  and  above  all  "  the  most  perfect  orator  of  his  day." 


■f  "  1* 


I     t 


\ 


no 


A  UDUBON 


Harlan,  his  brow  would  have  assured  that  same  old  friend 
of  his  great  mental  powers.     He  cordially  invited  me  to 
call  on  him  in  Grosvenor  Street  in  town  (thus  he  called 
London),  shook   hands   with   me  again,  and  mounting   a 
splendid  hunter  rode  off.     I  called  to  thank  Mr.  Rathbone 
for  his  letters  and  gift,  but  did  so,  I   know,  most  awk- 
wardly.    Oh !  that  I  had  been  flogged  out  of  this  miser- 
able shyness  and  mativaise  honte  when  I  was  a  youth. 
•  August  6,  Sunday.     When  I  arrived  in  this  city  I    felt 
dejected,  miserably  so ;  the  uncertainty  as  to  my  recep- 
tion, my  doubts  as  to  how  my  work  would  be  received,  all 
conspired  to  depress  me.     Now,  how  different  are  my  sen- 
sations !     I  am  well  received  everywhere,  my  works  praised 
and  admired,  and  my  poor  heart  is  at  last  relieved  from 
the  great  anxiety  that  has  for  so  many  years  agitated  it, 
for  I  know  now  that   I  have  not  worked   in  vain.     This 
morning   I  went  to  church;    the  sermon  was  not  to  my 
mind,  but  the  young  preacher  may  improve.     This  after- 
noon I  packed  up  Harlan's  "  Fauna"  for  Mr.  E.  Roscoe, 
and  went  to  the  Institution,  where  Mr.  Munro  was  to  meet 
me  and  escort  me  to  Mr.  Wm.  Roscoe,  Jr.,  where  I  was  to 
take  tea.     Mr.  Munro  was  not  on  hand,  so,  after  a  weary 
waiting,  I  went  alone  to  Mr.  Roscoe's  habitation.     It  was 
full  of  ladies  and   gentlemen,  all  his  own   family,  and  I 
knew  almost  every  one.     I  was  asked  to  imitate  the  calls 
of  some  of  the  wild  birds,  and  though  I  did  not  wish  to 
do  so,  consented  to  satisfy  the  curiosity  of  the  company. 
I  sat  between  Mr.  VVm.  Roscoe  and  his  son  Edward,  and 
answered  question  after  question.     Finally,  the  good  old 
gentleman  and   I   retired  to  talk  about  my  plans.    He 
strongly  advises  me  not  to  exhibit  my  works  without  re- 
muneration.    Later  more  guests  came  in,  and  more  ques- 
tions were  asked ;  they  appeared  surprised  that  I  have  no 
wonderful  tales  to  tell,  that,  for  instance,  I  have  not  been 
devoured  at  least  six  times  by  tigers,  bears,  wolves,  foxes; 
no,  I  never  was  troubled  by  any  larger  animals  than  ticks 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


III 


and  mosquitoes,  and  that  is  quite  enough.  At  last  one 
after  another  took  leave.  The  well  bred  society  of  England 
is  the  perfection  of  manners ;  such  tone  of  voice  I  never 
heard  in  America.  Indeed,  thus  far,  I  have  great  reason 
to  like  England.  My  plans  now  are  to  go  to  Manchester, 
to  Derbyshire  to  visit  Lord  Stanley  (Earl  of  Derby), 
Birmingham,  London  for  three  weeks,  Edinburgh,  back  to 
London,  and  then  to  France,  Paris,  Nantes,  to  see  my  ven- 
erable stepmother,  Brussels,  and  return  to  England.  I  am 
advised  to  do  this  by  men  of  learning  and  excellent  judg- 
ment, who  say  this  will  enable  me  to  find  where  my  work 
may  be  published  with  greatest  advantage.  I  have  letters 
given  me  to  Baron  Humboldt,  General  La  Fayette,  Sir 
Walter  Scott,  Sir  Humphry  Davy,  Miss  Hannah  More, 
Miss  Edgeworth,  Sir  Thomas  Lawrence,  etc.,  etc-  How  I 
wish  Victor  could  be  with  me;  what  an  opportunity  to  see 
the  best  of  this  island ;  few  ordinary  individuals  ever  en- 
joyed the  same  reception.  Many  persons  of  distinction 
have  begged  drawing  lessons  of  me  at  a  guinea  an  hour. 
I  am  astonished  at  the  plainness  of  the  ladies'  dress ;  in 
the  best  society  there  are  no  furbelows  and  fandangoes. 

Aiigiist  7.  I  am  just  now  from  the  society  of  the  learned 
Dr.  Traill,  and  have  greatly  enjoyed  two  hours  of  his  in- 
teresting company;  to  what  perfection  men  like  him  can 
rise  in  this  island  of  instruction.  I  dined  at  Mr.  Edward 
Roscoe's,  whose  wife  wished  me  to  draw  something  for  her 
while  she  watched  me.  I  drew  a  flower  for  her,  and  one 
for  Miss  Dale,  a  fine  artist.  I  am  grieved  I  could  not 
reach  "  Green  Bank  "  this  evening  to  enjoy  the  company 
of  my  good  friends,  the  Rathbones ;  they  with  the  Roscoes 
and  Hodgsons  have  done  more  for  me  in  every  way  than  I 
can  express.  I  must  have  walked  twenty  miles  to-day  on 
these  pavements ;  that  is  equal  to  forty-five  in  the  woods, 
where  there  is  so  much  to  see. 

Augusts.  Although  I  am  extremely  fatigued  and  it  is 
past  midnight,  I  will  write.     Mr.  Roscoe  spoke  much  of 


112 


AUDUBON 


my  exhibiting  my  drawings  for  an  admission  fee,  and  he, 
as  well  as  Dr.  Traill  and  others,  have  advised  me  so 
strongly  to  do  so  that  I  finally  consented,  though  not  quite 
agreeable  to  me,  and  Mr.  Roscoe  drew  a  draft  of  a  notice 
to  be  inserted  in  the  papers,  after  which  we  passed  some 
charming  hours  together. 

August  9.  The  Committee  of  the  Royal  Institution  met 
to-day  and  requested  me  to  exhibit  my  drawings  by  ticket 
of  admission.  This  request  must  and  will,  I  am  sure,  take 
off  any  discredit  attached  to  the  tormenting  feeling  of 
showing  my  work  for  money. 

August  10.  The  morning  was  beautiful,  and  I  was  out 
very  early;  the  watchmen  have,  however,  ceased  to  look 
upon  me  with  suspicion,  and  think,  perhaps,  I  am  a  harm- 
less lunatic.  I  walked  to  the  "  Mound  "  and  saw  the  city 
and  the  country  beyond  the  Mersey  plainly;  then  I  sat  on 
the  grass  and  watched  four  truant  boys  rolling  marbles 
with  great  spirit;  how  much  they  brought  before  me  my 
younger  days.  I  would  have  liked  them  still  better  had 
they  been  clean;  but  they  were  not  so,  and  as  I  gave 
them  some  money  to  buy  marbles,  I  recommended  that 
some  of  it  be  spent  in  soap.  I  begin  to  feel  most  power- 
fully the  want  of  occupation  at  drawing  and  studying  the 
habits  of  the  birds  that  I  see  about  me ;  and  the  little  Spar- 
rows that  hop  in  the  streets,  although  very  sooty  with  coal 
smoke,  attract  my  attention  greatly ;  indeed,  I  watched 
one  of  them  to-day  in  the  dust  of  the  street,  with  as  much 
pleasure  as  in  far  different  places  I  have  watched  the  play 
of  finer  birds.  All  this  induced  me  to  begin.  I  bought 
water  colors  and  brushes,  for  which  I  paid  dearer  than  in 
New  Orleans.  I  dined  with  Mr.  Edward  Roscoe.  As  you 
go  to  Park  Place  the  view  is  extensive  up  and  down  the 
Mersey ;  it  gives  no  extraordinary  effects,  but  is  a  calming 
vision  of  repose  to  the  eyes  wearied  with  the  bustle  of  the 
streets.  There  are  plenty  of  steam  vessels,  but  not  to  be 
compared  to  those  on  the  Ohio ;  these  look  like  smoky, 


dirt 
ing 
even 
its  n 
h  se 
waitii 
for  t\ 
cypre; 
cannoi 
charm; 
more  c 
simple, 
came  in 
left  the 
that  in 
foJ/ow  Ci 
another  \ 
'"epast. 
my  eyes 
^k^'^5  witV 
g^rounds 
^^'s  must 
ireedom 
'"ore  here, 
'boards  thj 

yet  have  I 
^3^e  arrfvj 
^°"S^  for  im 
church  for 
^^'"y  kind 

^KVtst  A 
^athbone  fj 
^■■s-  Ratht' 

and  also  "The 

VOL.    1,. 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


"3 


'\    U 


dirty  dungeons.  Immediately  opposite  Mr.  Roscoe's  dwell- 
ing is  a  pond  where  I  have  not  yet  seen  a  living  thing,  not 
even  a  frog.  No  moccasin  nor  copper-headed  snake  is  near 
its  margin ;  no  snowy  Heron,  no  Rose-colored  Ibis  ever 
is  seen  here,  wild  and  charming ;  no  sprightly  trout,  nor 
waiting  gar-fish,  while  above  hovers  no  Vulture  watching 
for  the  spoils  of  the  hunt,  nor  Eagle  perched  on  dreary 
cypress  in  a  gloomy  silence.  No !  I  am  in  England,  and  I 
cannot  but  long  with  unutterable  longing  for  America, 
charming  as  England  is,  and  there  is  nothing  in  England 
more  charming  than  the  Roscoe  family.  Our  dinner  is 
simple,  therefore  healthful.  Two  ladies  and  a  gentleman 
came  in  while  we  were  at  dessert,  and  almost  as  soon  as  we 
left  the  table  tea  was  announced.  It  is  a  singular  thing 
that  in  England  dinner,  dessert,  wines,  and  tea  drinking 
follow  each  other  so  quickly  that  if  we  did  not  remove  to 
another  room  to  partake  of  the  last,  it  would  be  a  constant 
repast.  1  walked  back  to  Liverpool,  and  more  than  once 
my  eyes  were  shocked  whilst  crossing  the  fields,  to  see 
signs  with  these  words :  "  Any  person  trespassing  on  these 
grounds  will  be  prosecuted  with  the  rigor  of  the  law." 
This  must  be  a  mistake,  certainly;  this  cannot  be  English 
freedom  and  liberty,  surely.  Of  this  I  intend  to  know 
more  hereafter ;  but  that  I  saw  these  words  painted  on 
boards  there   is  really  no  doubt. 

Sunday,  August  13.  I  am  greatly  disappointed  that  not 
yet  have  I  had  letters  from  home,  though  several  vessels 
have  arrived ;  perhaps  to-morrow  may  bring  me  what  I 
long  for  inexpressibly.  This  morning  I  went  again  to  the 
church  for  the  blind,  and  spent  the  remainder  of  the  day 
at  my  kind  friend's,  Mr.  Wm.  Roscoe. 

August  IJ/..  This  day  I  have  passed  with  the  delightful 
Rathbonc  family  at  Green  Bank;  I  have  been  drawing  for 
Mrs.  Rathbone,*  and  after  dinner  we  went  through  the 

'Mrs.  Wm.  Rathbone,  Sr.,  whom  Audubon  often  calls  "  Lady  Rathbone," 
and  also  "  The  Queen  Bee." 

VOL.    I. —  8  ' 


ift'i 


11 


:ii' 


!       i 

1     '.\ 


114 


AUDUBON 


greenhouse  and  jardin  potager.  Plow  charming  is  Green 
Bank  and  the  true  hospitality  of  these  English  friends.  It 
is  a  cold  night,  the  wind  blowing  like  November;  it  has 
been  the  first  day  of  my  exhibition  of  pictures  per  card, 
and  one  hundred  and  sixty-four  persons  were  admitted. 

August  15.  Green  Bank,  three  miles  from  Liverpool.  I 
am  now  at  this  quiet  country  home  ;  the  morning  passed  in 
drawing,  and  this  afternoon  I  took  a  long  waLc  with  Miss 
Rathbone  and  her  nephew ;  we  were  accompanied  by  a 
rare  dog  from  Kamschatka.  How  I  did  wish  /  could  have 
conducted  them  towards  the  beech  woods  where  we  could 
move  wherever  fancy  led  us ;  but  no,  it  could  not  be,  and 
we  walked  between  dreary  walls,  without  the  privilege  of 
advancing  towards  any  particular  object  that  might  attract 
the  eye.  Is  it  not  shocking  that  while  in  England  all  is 
hospitality  within^  all  is  so  different  without  ?  No  one  dare 
trespass,  as  it  is  called.  Signs  of  lajge  dogs  are  put  up; 
steel  traps  and  spring  guns  are  set  up,  and  even  eyes  are 
kept  out  by  high  walls.  Everywhere  we  meet  beggars,  for 
England  though  rich,  has  poverty  gaping  every  way  you 
look,  and  the  beggars  ask  for  bread,  —  yes,  absolutely  for 
food.  I  can  only  pray,  May  our  Heavenly  Father  have 
mercy  on  them. 

August  17.  Green  Bank.  This  morning  I  lay  on  the 
grass  a  long  time  listening  to  the  rough  voice  of  a  Magpie; 
it  is  not  the  same  bird  that  we  have  in  America.  I  drove 
to  the  Institution  with  the  Queen  Bee  of  Green  Bank,  and 
this  afternoon  began  a  painting  of  the  Otter  in  a  trap,  with 
the  intention  to  present  it  (if  it  is  good)  to  my  friend  Mr. 
Roscoe's  wife.  This  evening  dined  at  Mr.  Wm.  Rathbone's, 
and   tliere  met  a  Quaker  lady,   Mrs.  Abigail  ,  who 


talked  much  and  well  about  the  present  condition  of  Eng- 
land, her  poor,  her  institutions,  etc.  It  is  dreadful  to  know 
of  the  want  of  bread  here ;  will  it  not  lead  to  the  horrors  of 
another  revolution  ?  The  children  of  the  very  poor  are 
often  forced  by  their  parents  to  collect    daily  a  certain 


J Ill 


rt    ^« 


K       -  - 

<5     C-g 


bi 


<     i  = 


amout 
obtaini 
and  t\ 
berles^ 
accour 
thefts, ' 
look  all 
Aug\ 
The  dil 
and  go| 
highly 

Augi\ 
Otter; 
invited 
painted] 
say  thre 
Septc\ 
days,  I 
place. 
Traill's  i| 
French  § 
visit  Frai 
neux ;  th 
conversa 
Mr.  Ton: 
came  to 
my  worl 
fatigue. 
Institutic 
made  m; 
Sundays 
the  blinc 
at  my  h 
meat,  e> 

^  Muzio 
don,  1832, 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


115 


amount  by  begging,  or  perhaps  even  stealing;  failing  to 
obtain  this  they  are  cruelly  punished  on  their  return  home, 
and  the  tricks  they  resort  to,  to  gain  their  ends,  are  num- 
berless and  curious.  The  newspapers  abound  with  such 
accounts,  and  are  besides  filled  with  histories  of  murders, 
thefts,  hangings,  and  other  abominable  acts ;  I  can  scarce 
look  at  them. 

August  19.  Dined  with  Mr.  A.  Melly  in  Grenville  St. 
The  dinner  was  quite  d,  la  frangaise,  all  gayety,  witticism, 
and  good  cheer.  The  game,  however,  was  what  I  call 
highly  tainted,  the  true  flavor  for  the  lords  of  England. 

August  21.  I  painted  many  hours  this  day,  finished  my 
Otter ;  it  was  viewed  by  many  and  admired.  I  was  again 
invited  to  remove  to  Green  Bank,  but  declined  until  I  have 
painted  the  Wild  Turkey  cock  for  the  Royal  Institution, 
say  three  days  more. 

September  Jf.  Having  been  too  busy  to  write  for  many 
days,  I  can  only  relate  the  principal  facts  that  have  taken 
place.  I  have  been  to  two  very  notable  suppers,  one  at  Dr. 
Traill's  in  company  with  the  French  consul  and  two  other 
French  gentlemen;  I  was  much  encouraged,  and  urged  to 
visit  France  at  once.  The  other  at  the  house  of  Mr.  Moli- 
neux ;  there  indeed  my  ears  were  feasted ;  such  entertaining 
conversation,  such  delightful  music;  Mr,  Clementi^  and 
Mr.  Tomlinson  from  London  were  present.  Many  persons 
came  to  my  painting  room,  they  wonder  at  the  rapidity  of 
my  work  and  that  I  can  paint  fourteen  hours  without 
fatigue.  My  Turkeys  are  now  framed,  and  hung  at  the 
Institution  which  is  open  daily,  and  paying  well.  I  have 
made  many  small  drawings  for  different  friends.  All  my 
Sundays  are  alike,  —  breakfast  with  Mr.  Melly,  church  with 
the  blind,  dinner  with  Mr.  Roscoe.  Every  one  is  surprised 
at  my  habits  of  early  rising,  and  at  my  rarely  touching 
meat,  except  game. 

*  Muzio  Clementi,  composer  and  piii.'st,  bom  in  Rome,  1752,  died  in  Lon- 
don, 1832.    Head  of  the  piano  firm  of  that  name. 


^      I 


^*v" 


ii6 


AUDUBON 


Green  Bank,  September  6.  When  I  reached  this  place 
I  was  told  that  Lady  Isabella  Douglass,  the  sister  of  Lord 
Selkirk,  former  governor  of  Canada,  was  here ;  she  is  un- 
able to  walk,  and  moves  about  in  a  rolling  chair.  At 
dinner  I  sat  between  her  and  Mrs.  Rathbone,  and  I  enjoyed 
the  conversation  of  Lady  Douglass  much,  her  broad  Scotch 
accent  is  agreeable  to  me ;  and  I  amused  her  by  eating 
some  tomatoes  raw;  neither  she,  nor  any  of  the  company 
had  ever  seen  them  on  the  table  without  being  cooked. 

September  9.  Dr.  Traill  has  ordered  all  my  drawings  to 
be  packed  by  the  curator  of  the  Institution,  so  that  has 
given  me  no  trouble  whatever.  It  is  hard  to  say  farewell 
to  all  those  in  town  and  country  who  have  been  so  kind, 
so  hospitable  to  me,  but  to-morrow  I  leave  for  Manchester, 
where  Mr.  Roscoe  advises  me  to  go  next. 

Manchester,  County  of  Lancashire,  September  10,  1826. 
I    must   write    something   of    my    coming    here.      After 
bidding  adieu  to  many  friends,  I  went  to  Dr.  Traill,  who 
most  kindly  insisted  on  my  taking  Mr.  Munro  with  me  for 
two  days  to    assist   me,  and   we  left   by  coach  with  my 
portfolios,  my  trunk  to  follow  by  a  slower  conveyance.     I 
paid  one  pound  for  our  inside  seats.     I  felt  depressed  at 
leaving  all  my  good  friends,  yet  Mr.  Munro  did  all  in  his 
power  to  interest  me.     He  made  me  remark  Lord  Stanley's 
domains,  and  I  looked  on  the  Hares,  Partridges,  and  other 
game  with  a  thought  of  apprehension  that  the  apparent 
freedom  and  security  they  enjoyed  was  very  transient.    I 
thought  it  more  cruel  to  permit  them  to  grow  tame  and 
gentle,  and  then  suddenly  to  turn  and  murder  them  by 
thousands,  than  to  give  them  the  fair  show  that  our  game 
has  in  our  forests,  to  let  them  be  free  and  as  wild  as  nature 
made  them,  and  to  let  the  hunter  pay  for  them  by  the 
pleasure  and   work   of  pursuing  them.     We   stopped,  I 
thought  frequently,  to  renew  the  horses,  and  wherever  we 
stopped  a  neatly  dressed  maid  offered  cakes,  ale,  or  other 
refreshments  for  sale.     I  remarked  little  shrubs  in  many 


f 

S( 

ro 

of 

po 

me 

thh 

fron 

M 

JiVerj 

fecor 

C'pai 
i^ind ; 
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cieared, 
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^^Pt  my 
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appears  del 
number  off 
'^^^ed  an  J 
7^^  not  a1 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


117 


parts  of  the  meadows  that  concealed  traps  for  moles  and 
served  as  beacons  for  the  persons  who  caught  them.  The 
road  was  good,  but  narrow,  the  country  in  a  high  degree 
of  cultivation.  We  crossed  a  canal  conducting  from  Liver- 
pool here ;  the  sails  moving  through  the  meadows  reminded 
me  of  Rochester,  N.  Y.  I  am,  then,  now  at  Manchester, 
thirty-eight  miles  from  Liverpool,  and  nearly  six  thousand 
from  Louisiana. 

Manchester,  September  12.     Yesterday  was  spent  in  de- 
livering my  letters  to  the  different  persons  to  whom  I  was 
recommended.    The  American  consul,  Mr.  J.  S.  Brookes, 
with  whom  I  shall  dine  to-morrow,  received  me  as  an  Amer- 
ican gentleman  receives  another,  most  cordially.    The  prin- 
cipal  banker   here,  Arthur  Heywood,  Esq.,  was  equally 
kind  ;  indeed  everywhere  I  meet  a  most  amiable  reception. 
I  procured,  through  these   gentlemen,    a  good   room    to 
exhibit   my   pictures,  in  the  Exchange  buildings,  had    it 
cleared,  cleaned,  and  made  ready  by  night.     At  five  this 
morning   Mr.    Munro   (the   curator  of  the    Institution  at 
Liverpool  and  a  most  competent  help)  with  several  assis- 
tants and  myself  began  putting  up,  and  by  eleven  all  was 
ready.     Manchester,  as  I  have  seen  it  in  my  walks,  seems 
a  miserably  laid  out  place,  and  the  smokiest  I  ever  was 
in.     I  think  I  ought  not  to  use  the  words  "  laid  out  "  at 
all.    It  is  composed  of  an  astonishing  number  of  small, 
dirty,  narrow,  crooked  lanes,  where  one  cart  can  scarce 
pass  another.     It  is  full  of  noise   and  tumult ;  I  thought 
last  night  not   one  person    could    have    enjoyed    repose. 
The  postilion's  horns,  joined  to  the  cry  of  the  watchmen, 
kept  my    eyelids    asunder   till   daylight   again    gave   me 
leave  to  issue  from  the    King's   Arms.     The   population 
appears  denser  and  worse  off  than  in  Liverpool.     The  vast 
number  of  youth  of  both  sexes,  with  sallow  complexions, 
ragged  apparel,  and  downcast  looks,  made  me  feel  they 
were  not  as  happy  as  the  slaves  of  Louisiana.     Trade  is 
slowly  improving,  but  the  times  are  dull.     I  have  heard 


Ii8 


AUDUBON 


the  times  abused  ever  since  my  earliest  recollections.     I 
saw  to-day  several  members  of  the  Gregg  family. 

September  13y  Wednesday.  I  have  visited  the  Academy  of 
Sciences  ;  my  time  here  was  largely  spoiled  by  one  of  those 
busybodies  who  from  time  to  time  rise  to  the  surface,  — 
a  dealer  in  stuffed  specimens,  and  there  ends  his  history. 
I  wished  him  in  Hanover,  or  Congo,  or  New  Zealand,  or 
Bombay,  or  in  a  bomb-shell  en  route  to  eternity.  Mr.  Munro 
left  me  to-day,  and  I  removed  from  the  hotel  to  the  house 
of  a  Mrs.  Edge,  in  King  Street,  who  keeps  a  circulating 
library;  here  I  have  more  quietness  and  a  comfortable 
parlor  and  bedroom.  I  engaged  a  man  named  Crookes, 
well  recommended,  to  attend  as  money  receiver  at  tlie  door 
of  my  exhibition  room.  I  pay  him  fifteen  shillings  per 
week;  he  finds  himself,  and  copies  letters  for  me.  Two 
men  came  to  the  exhibition  room  and  inquired  if  I  wished 
a  band  of  music  to  entertain  the  visitors.  I  thanked  them, 
but  do  not  consider  it  necessary  in  the  company  of  so 
many  songsters.  My  pictures  here  must  depend  on  their 
real  value  ;  in  Liverpool  I  knew  I  was  supported  by  my 
particular  friends.  ...  It  is  eleven  o'clock,  and  I  have 
just  returned  from  Consul  Brookes'  dinner.  The  company 
were  all  gentlemen,  among  whom  were  Mr.  Lloyd,  the 
wealthy  banker,  and  Mr.  Garnet.  Our  host  is  from  Boston, 
a  most  intelligent  and  polite  man.  Judge  of  my  surprise 
when,  during  the  third  course,  I  saw  on  the  table  a  dish  of 
Indian  corn,  purposely  for  me.  To  see  me  eat  it  buttered 
and  salted,  held  as  if  I  intended  gagging  myself,  was  a 
matter  of  much  wonder  to  the  English  gentlemen,  who 
did  not  like  the  vegetable.  We  had  an  English  dinner 
Americanized,  and  the  profusion  of  wines,  and  the  quan- 
tity drank  was  uncomfortable  to  me ;  I  was  constantly 
obliged  to  say,  "  No."  The  gentleman  next  me  was  a  good 
naturalist ;  much,  of  course,  was  said  about  rny  work  and 
that  of  Charles  Bonaparte.  The  convc  nation  turned  on 
politics,  and  Mr.  Brookes  and  myself,  the  only  Americans 


m 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


119 


present,  ranged  ourselves  and  toasted  "  Our  enemies  in 
war,  but  our  friends  in  peace."  I  am  particularly  fond  of 
a  man  who  speaks  well  of  his  country,  and  the  peculiar 
warmth  of  Englishmen  on  this  subject  is  admirable.  I 
have  had  a  note  from  Lord  de  Tabelay,  who  is  anxious  to 
see  my  drawings  and  me,  and  begs  me  to  go  to  his  domain 
fourteen  miles  distant,  on  my  way  to  Birmingham.  I  ob- 
served that  many  persons  who  visited  the  exhibition 
room  investigated  my  style  more  closely  than  at  Liver- 
pool. A  Dr.  Hulme  spent  several  hours  both  yesterday 
and  to-day  looking  at  them,  and  I  have  been  asked  many 
times  if  they  were  for  sale.  I  walked  some  four  miles  out 
of  the  town  ;  the  country  is  not  so  verdant,  nor  the  country 
seats  so  clean-looking,  as  Green  Bank  for  instance.  The 
funnels  raised  from  the  manufactories  to  carry  off  the 
smoke  appear  in  hundreds  in  every  direction,  and  as  you 
walk  the  street,  the  whirring  sound  of  machinery  is  con- 
stantly in  your  ears.  The  changes  in  the  weather  are 
remarkable ;  at  daylight  it  rained  hard,  at  noon  it  was 
fair,  this  afternoon  it  rained  again,  at  sunset  was  warm, 
and  now  looks  like  a  severe  frost. 

September  14,  Thursday.  I  have  dined  to-day  at  the 
home  of  Mr.  George  W.  Wood,  about  two  miles  from  the 
town.  He  drove  me  thither  in  company  with  four  gentlemen, 
all  from  foreign  countries,  Mexico,  Sumatra,  Constantinople, 
and  La  Guayra ;  all  were  English  and  had  been  travelling 
for  business  or  pleasure,  not  for  scientific  or  literary  pur- 
poses. Mrs.  Wood  was  much  interested  in  her  gardens, 
which  are  very  fine,  and  showed  me  one  hundred  bags  of 
black  gauze,  which  she  had  made  to  protect  as  many 
bunches  of  grapes  from  the  wasps. 

September  15.  FROST.  This  morning  the  houses  were 
covered  with  frost,  and  I  felt  uncommonly  cold  and  shiv- 
ery. My  exhibition  was  poorly  attended,  but  those  who 
came  seemed  interested.  Mr.  Hoyle,  the  eminent  chemist, 
came  with  four  very  pretty  little  daughters,  in  little  gray 


w 
I 


\\ 


1  I  II  fii-i  >  ni 


I  20 


AUDUBON 


iiiiim 


satin  bonnets,  gray  silk  spencers,  and  white  petticoats,  as 
befitted  them,  being  Quakers;  also  Mr.  Heyvvood.  the 
banker,  who  invited  me  to  dine  next  Sunday.  I  spent  the 
evening  at  the  Rev.  James  I.  Taylor's,  in  company  with 
himself,  his  wife,  and  two  gentlemen,  one  a  Parisian.  I 
cannot  help  expressing  my  surprise  that  the  people  of 
England,  generally  speaking,  arc  so  unacquainted  with  the 
customs  and  localities  of  our  country.  The  principal  con- 
versation about  it  always  turns  to  Indians  and  their  ways, 
as  if  the  land  produced  nothing  else.  Almost  every  lady 
in  England  draws  in  water-colors,  many  of  them  extremely 
well,  very  much  better  than  I  ever  will  do,  yet  few  of  them 
dare  to  show  their  productions.  Somehow  I  do  not  like 
Manchester. 

September  17,  Sunday.     I  have  been  thinking  over  my 
stay  in  Liverpool ;  surely  I  can  never  express,  much  less 
hope  to  repay,  my  indebtedness  to  my  many  friends  there, 
especially  the  Roscoes,  the  three  families  of  Rathbone,  and 
Dr.  Thomas  S.  Traill.     My  drawings  were  exhibited  for 
four  weeks  without  a  cent  of  expense  to  me,  and  brought 
me  ;{^I00.     I   gave  to   the  Institution  a  large  piece,  the 
wild  Turkey  Cock;  to  Mrs.  Rathbone,  Sr.,  the  Otter  in  a 
trap,  to  Mr.  Roscoe  a  Robin,  and  to  many  of  my  other 
friends  some  small  drawing,  as  mementos  of  one  who  will 
always  cherish  their  memories.     I  wrote  a  long  letter  to 
my  son  John  Woodhouse  urging  him  to  spend  much  of 
his  time  at  drawing  from  nature  only,  and  to  keep  every 
drawing  with  the  date,  that  he  may  trace  improvement,  if 
any,  also  to  speak  French  constantly,  that  he  may  not  for- 
get a  language  in  which  he  is  now  perfect.     I  have  also 
written  to  the  Governor  of  New  York,  his  Excellency  De 
Witt  Clinton,  to  whose  letters  I  am  indebted  for  much  of 
my  cordial   reception  here.     At  two  I   started  for  Cler- 
mont, Mr.   Heywood's  residence,  where    I  was   to   dine. 
The  grounds  are  fine,  and  on  a  much  larger  scale  than 
Green   Bank,   but   the    style    is  wholly    different.    The 


hoi 

eas 

soo 

vvoo 

after 

Sc 

half.j 

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—•  his 

friend 

vveatiic 

at  my 

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at  ihe  I 

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fathGr  of  J 

^^^y  years] 
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Y''^  I  met 
^eJativJ 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


121 


house  is  immense,  but  I  was  kindly  received  and  felt  at 
ease  at  once.  After  dinner  the  ladies  left  us  early.  We 
soon  retired  to  the  library  to  drink  tea,  and  Miss  Hcy- 
wood  showed  me  her  portfolio  of  drawings,  and  not  long 
after  I  took  my  leave. 

September  18,  Monday.  Mr.  Sergeant  came  for  me  at 
half-past  three  and  escorted  me  to  his  house.  I  am  de- 
lighted with  him — his  house  —  his  pictures  —  his  books 
—  his  guns  —  and  his  dogs,  and  very  much  so  with  a 
friend  of  his  from  London,  who  dined  with  us.  The 
weather  has  been  beautiful,  and  more  persons  than  usual 
at  my  rooms. 

September  19,  Tuesday.     I  saw  Mr.  Melly  this  morning 
at  the  Exchange ;  he  had  not  long  arrived  from  Liverpool. 
He  had  been  to  my  door-keeper,  examined  the  Book  of 
Income,  and  told  me  he  was  sorry  and  annoyed  at  my  want 
of  success,  and  advised  me  to  go  at  once  to  London  or 
Paris.     He  depressed  me  terribly,  so  that  I  felt  really  ill. 
Ke  invited  me  to  dine  with  him,  but  I  told  him  I  had  already 
engaged  to  go  to  Mr.  Samuel  Gregg  ^  at  Quarry  Bank,  four- 
teen miles  distant,  to  pass  the  night.     Mr.  Gregg,  who  is  the 
father  of  a  large  family,  met  me  as  if  he  had  known  me 
fift)'  years;    with  him  came- his  brother  William  and  his 
daughter,  the  carriage  was  ready,  and  ofif  we  drove.     We 
crossed  a  river  in  the  course  of  our  journey  nearly  fifty 
feet  wide.     I  was  told  it  was  a  stream  of  great  importance : 
the  name  I  have  forgotten,^  but  I  know  it  is  seven  miles 
from   Manchester  en   route  to    Derbyshire.     The  land   is 
highly  improved,  and  grows  wheat  principally;  the  coun- 
try is  pretty,  and  many  of  the  buildings  are  really  beauti- 
ful.    We  turn  down  a  declivity  to   Quarry  Bank,  a  most 
enchanting  spot,  situated  on  the  edge  of  the  same  river 
I  we  had  crossed,  —  the  grounds  truly  picturesque,  and  cul- 
Itivated  to  the  greatest  possible  extent.     In  the  drawing- 
jroom  I  met  three  ladies,  the  daughters  of  Mr.  Gregg,  and 
^  Relative  of  Mr.  Wm.  Rathbone,  Sr.  2  jhe  Irwell. 


|i|     I 


ii 


! 


122 


AUDUBON 


the  second  daughter  of  Mr.  Wm.  Rathbone.  After  tea  I 
drew  a  dog  in  charcoal,  and  rubbed  it  with  a  cork  to  give 
an  idea  of  tiie  improvement  over  the  common  stumps  ordi- 
narily used.  Afterwards  I  accompanied  the  two  brothers 
to  a  debating  club,  instituted  on  their  premises  for  the  ad- 
vancement of  their  workmen ;  on  the  way  we  passed  a 
chapel  and  a  long  row  of  cottages  for  the  work-people,  and 
finally  reached  the  schoolroom,  where  about  thirty  men  had 
assembled.  The  question  presented  was  "  Which  was  the 
more  advantageous,  the  discovery  of  the  compass,  or  that 
of  the  art  of  printing  ?  "  I  listened  with  interest,  and  later 
talked  with  the  men  on  some  of  the  wonders  of  my  own 
country,  in  which  they  seemed  to  be  much  interested. 

Quarry  Bank,  September  W.    Though  the  weather  was 

cloudy  and  somewhat  rainy,  I  rose  early,  took  an  immense 

walk,  up  and  down  the  river,  through  the  gardens,  along 

the  road,  and  about  the  woods,  fields,  and  meadows;  saw 

a  flock  of  Partridges,  and  at  half-past  eight  had  done  this 

and    daubed    in  a  sketch    of  an    Esquimau    in  a  sledge, 

drawn  by  four  dogs.     The  offer  was  made  me  to  join  a 

shooting  party  in  the  afternoon  ;  all  was  arranged,  and  the 

pleasure   augmented   by  the   presence  of  Mr.  Shaw,  the 

principal  game-keeper  of  Lord  Stanford,  who  obligingly 

promised  to  show  us  many  birds  (so  are  Partridges  called). 

Our  guns  are  no  longer  than  my  arm,  and  we  had  two 

good  dogs.     Pheasants  are  not  to  be  touched  till  the  first  of 

October,  but  an  exception  was  made  for  me  and  one  was 

shot,  and  I  picked  it  up  while  his  eye  was  yet  all  life,  his 

feathers  all  brilliancy.     We  had  a  fine  walk  and  saw  the 

Derbyshire  hills.     Mr.  Shaw  pocketed   five  shillings,  and 

we  the  game.     This  was  my  first  hunting  on  English  soil, 

on  Lord   Stanford's  domain,  where  every  tree  —  such  as 

we  should  call  saplings  —  was  marked  and  numbered,  and 

for  all  that  I  know  pays  either  a  tax  to  the  government  or 

a  tithe  to  the  parish.     I  am  told  that  a  Partridge  which 

crosses  the  river,  or  a  road,  or  a  boundary,  and  alights  on 


Millll 


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my 
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Man 

situat 

and  o 

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piicass 

Only  tv 
consui, 
have  a  s 
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and  at  e 

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m/ttce  hnj 

^0  exhfbji 

as  th/s  gj 

"sua/  cam 

^•■eg:?,  SeJ 

'°'"  '^h\c\\ 

^^'iadciphf 

t^e  cotto/ 

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square  arei 

^'^'  «'X  anl 
square  a  \A 
'}  ^^ny  a„l 
^^■M.   to 
"'e  everywf 

y  a  s/ngiei 
^°"^'ngtoc/ 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


123 


ground  other  than  Lord  Stanford's,  is  as  safe  from  his  gun 
as  if  in  Guinea. 

September  21.  I  returned  to  town  this  morning  with 
my  Pheasant.  Reached  my  exhibition  room  and  received 
miserable  accounts.  I  see  plainly  that  my  expenses  in 
Manchester  will  not  be  repaid,  in  which  case  I  must  move 
shortly.  I  called  on  Dr.  Hulme  and  represented  the 
situation,  and  he  went  to  the  Academy  of  Natural  History 
and  ordered  a  committee  to  meet  on  Saturday,  to  see  if  the 
Academy  could  give  me  a  room.  Later  I  mounted  my 
pheasant,  and  all  is  ready  for  work  to-morrow. 

September  22.  I  have  drawn  all  day  and  am  fatigued. 
Only  twenty  people  to  see  my  birds ;  sad  work  this.  The 
consul,  Mr.  Brookes,  came  to  see  me,  and  advised  me  to 
have  a  subscription  book  for  my  work.  I  am  to  dine  with 
him  at  Mr.  Lloyd's  at  one  next  Sunday. 

September  23.     My  drawing  this  morning  moved  rapidly, 
and  at  eleven  I  walked  to  the  Exchange    and  met  Dr. 
Hulme  and  several  other  friends,  who  told  me  the  Com- 
mittee had  voted  unanimously  to  grant  me  a  room  gratis 
to  exhibit  my  drawings.     I  thanked  them  most  heartily, 
as  this  greatly  lessens  my  expenses.     More  people  than 
usual  came  to   my  rooms,  and  I  dined  with  Mr.  Samuel 
Gregg,  Senior,  in  Fountain  Street.    I  purchased  some  chalk, 
for  which    I    paid  more  than  four  times   as   much  as  in 
Philadelphia,  England  is  so  overdone  with  duty.     I  visited 
the  cotton  mills  of  George    Murray,  Esq.,  where  fifteen 
hundred  souls    are  employed.     These   mills   consist  of  a 
square  area  of  about  eight  acres,  built  round  with  houses 
five,  six,  and  seven  stories  high,  having  in  the  centre  of  the 
square  a  large  basin  of  water  from  the  canal.    Two  engines 
of  forty  and  forty-five  horse-power  are  kept  going  from 
6  A.  M.   to  8  P.  M.  daily.     Mr.  Murray  himself  conducted 
me  everywhere.     This  is  the  largest  establishment  owned 
by  a  single  individual  in  Manchester.     Some  others,  be- 
longing to  companies,  have  as  many  as  twenty-five  hundred 


124 


AUDUBON 


hands,  as  poor,  miserable,  abject-looking  wretches  as  ever 
worked  in  the  mines  of  Golconda.  I  was  asked  to  spend 
Monday  night  at  Mr.  Robert  Hyde  Gregg's  place.  Higher 
Ardwick,  but  I  have  a  ticket  for  a  fine  concert,  and  I  so 
love  music  that  it  is  doubtful  if  I  go.  I  took  tea  at  Mr. 
Bartley's,  and  promised  to  write  on  his  behalf  for  the 
bones  of  an  alligator  of  a  good  size.  Now  we  shall  see  if 
he  gets  one  as  quickly  as  did  Dr.  Harlan.  I  have  con- 
cluded to  have  a  "  Book  of  Subscriptions  "  open  to  receive 
the  names  of  all  persons  inclint  1  to  have  the  best  illustra- 
tions of  American  birds  yet  published ;  but  alas !  I  am 
but  a  beginner  in  depicting  the  beautiful  works  of  God. 

Sunday y  September  24-     I  drew  at  my  Pheasant  till  near 
eleven    o'clock,  the  weather  warm   and    cloudy.     Then  I 
went  to  church  and  then  walked  to  Mr.  Lloyd's.     I  left 
the  city  and    proceeded  two    miles    along   the   turnpike, 
having  only  an  imperfect  view  of  the  country;  I  remarked, 
howcvei,  that  the  foliage  was  deeply  colored  with  autum- 
nal tints.     I  reached  the  home  of  Mr.  Brookes,  and  together 
we  proceeded  to   Mr.   Lloyd's.     This  gentleman    met  us 
most  kindly  at  the  entrance,  and  we  went  with  him  through 
his  garden  and  hot-houses.   The  grounds  are  on  a  declivity 
affording  a  far  view  of  agreeable  landscape,  the  gardens 
most  beautifully  provided  with  all  this  wonderful  island 
affords,  and  the  hot-houses  contain  abundant  supplies  of 
exotics,  flower,  fruit,  and  shrub.     The  coffee-tree  was  bear- 
ing, the    banana   ripening;    here  were  juicy  grapes  from 
Spain  and   Italy,  the  sensitive  plant  shrunk  at  my  touch, 
and  all  was  growth,  blossom,  and  perfume.     Art  here  helps 
Nature  to  produce  hei  richest  treasures  at  will,  and  man  in 
England,  if  rich,  may  be    called  the  God  of  the  present 
day.     Flower  after  flower  was  plucked  for  me,  and  again 
I   felt   how    perfectly   an     English    gentleman    makes  a 
stranger  feel  at  home.     We  were  joined  by  Mr.  Thomas 
Lloyd  and  Mr.  Hindley  as  we  moved  towards  the  house, 
where  we  met  Mrs.  Lloyd,  two  daughters,  and   a  lady 


by  aj 

men 

move 

abunci 

\ve  sat 

and  I  J 

not  tile 

in  the  J 

iiour  \v( 

^i'/>tei 

morning 

ground  , 
thirty  ye, 

spoke;  " 
thee  open 
^'on  at  nin 
drawing, 
perhaps  hi 
"'y  times  aj 
'larasscd. 
'ng  for  the 
Exchange, 
'"g  d'scou'n 
'actions  of 
^"Ppose  WQ 
^^^ng  for 
^°  ^e  drumn 
^'l  ^  '"'ffht 
''^^  '"n  Am. 

/Pushed  in 

^''^  Pheasant 
3  good    1,V|^ 

^'^^"'-es  in  nr 

^'^^''-  next  vvi 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


125 


whose  name  escapes  me.  We  were,  of  course,  surrounded 
by  all  that  is  rich,  comfortable,  pleasing  to  the  eye.  Three 
men  servants  in  livery  trimmed  with  red  on  a  white  ground 
moved  quietly  as  Killdeers;  everything  was  choice  and 
abundant;  the  conversation  was  general  and  lively;  but 
we  sat  at  the  table  five  hours,  two  after  the  ladies  left  us, 
and  I  grew  restless;  unless  drawing  or  out  of  doors  I  like 
not  these  long  periods  of  repose.  After  joining  the  ladies 
in  the  library,  tea  and  coffee  were  served,  and  in  another 
hour  we  were  in  a  coach  en  route  for  Manchester. 

Scphmber  ^25.      Who   should    come  to    my   room    this 
morning   about   seven   whilst   I  was   busily   finishing  the 
ground  of  my  Pheasant  but  a  handsome  Quaker,  about 
thirty  years  of  age  and  very  neatly  dressed,  and  thus  he 
spoke :  "  My  friends  are  going  out  of  Manchester  before 
thee  opens  thy  exhibition  rooms ;  can  we  see  thy  collec- 
tion at  nine  o'clock  ?  "    I  answer, "  Yes,"  and  show  him  my 
drawing.     Now  were  all  the  people  here  Quakers,  I  might 
perhaps  have  some  encouragement,  but  really,  my  Lucy, 
my  times  are  dull,  heavy,  long,  painful,  and  my  mind  much 
harassed.     Five  minutes  before  nine  I  was  standing  wait- 
ing for  the  Quaker   and  his  friends  in  the  lobby  of  the 
Exchange,  when  two  persons  came  in  and  held  the  follow- 
ing discourse.     "  Pray,  have  you  seen  Mr.  Audubon's  col- 
lections of  birds?     I  am  told  it  is  well  worth  a  shilling; 
suppose  we  go  now."     "  Pah  !  it  is  all  a  hoax ;   save  your 
shilling  for  better  use.    I  have  seen  them ;  the  fellow  ought 
to  be  drummed  out  of  town."     I  dared  not  raise  my  head 
lest  I  might  be  known,  but  depend  upon  it  I  wished  my- 
self in  America.     The   Quakers,   however,    restored    my 
equilibrium,  for  they  all  praised  my  drawings  so  much  that 
I  blushed  in  spite  of  my  old  age.     I  took  my  drawing  of 
the  Pheasant  to  Mr.  Fanetti's  (?)  shop  and  had  it  put  in 
a  good  light.     I   have  made  arrangements  to   have   my 
pictures  in  my  new  place  in  King  Street,  and  hope  to  do 
better  next  week.     At  four  I  took  down  two  hundred  and 


126 


A  UDUBON 


forty  drawings  and  packed  them  ready  for  removal.  Now 
for  the  concert.  It  was  six  o'clock  and  raining  when  I  left 
for  Fountain  Street,  where  already  carriages  had  accumu- 
lated to  a  great  number.  I  presented  my  ticket,  and  was 
dsked  to  write  my  name  and  residence,  for  this  is  not 
exactly  a  public  affair,  but  most  select;  so  I  am  told. 
The  room  is  full  of  red,  white,  blue,  and  green  turbans  well 
fitted  to  the  handsome  heads  of  the  ladies.  I  went  to  one 
side  where  my  ear  and  my  intellect  might  be  well  satisfied, 
and  where  I  should  not  be  noticed ;  but  it  would  not  do, 
my  long  hair  and  unfashionable  garments  were  observed 
far  more  than  was  agreeable  to  me.  But  the  music  soon 
began,  and  I  forgot  all  else  for  the  time ;  still  between  the 
various  performances  I  felt  myself  gazed  at  through  lor- 
gnettes, and  was  most  ill  at  ease.  I  have  passed  many  un- 
comfortable evenings  in  company,  and  this  one  may  be 
added. 

Quarry  Bank,  September  26.  Whilst  putting  up  my 
pictures  in  my  newly  granted  "  apartment "  I  received  a 
note  from  Mrs.  Gregg  inviting  me  here  for  the  night  to 
meet  Professor  Smyth.^  He  is  a  tall,  fine-looking  gentle- 
man from  Cambridge,  full  of  knowledge,  good  taste,  and 
kindness.  At  dinner  the  Professor  sat  opposite  the 
Woodsman,  and  America  was  largely  the  topic  of  conver- 
sation. One  evening  spent  with  people  such  as  these 
is  worth  a  hundred  fashionable  ones. 

Wednesday,  September  27.  It  is  a  strange  atmosphere, 
warm,  damp,  rainy,  then  fair  again,  all  in  less  than  two 
hours,  which  was  the  time  consumed  by  my  early  walk. 
On  my  return  soon  after  eight  I  found  four  of  the  ladies 
all  drawing  in  the  library ;  that  in  this  country  is  generally 
the  sitting-room.  At  about  ten  we  had  breakfast,  when 
we  talked  much  of  duels,  and   of  my  friend  Clay  '^  and 

1  William  Smyth,  1766-1849,  poet,  scholar,  and  Professor  of  Modern 
History  at  Cambridge. 

2  Henry  Clay. 


era; 

and 

o/Tt 

agafj 

Gf 

morn 

Iltft 

one  hi 

ra/n  fa 

good  1 

J  feit  ft 

being'  I 

talked  ( 
^oscoe  i 
here  to  ( 

^athbone 

"Pofapr 

Grceu  I 

anda/ithe, 
^"^  at  haJ 
§''"?  fo  yir\ 
''^  rfec/dec. 
^'tftout  mo) 
''3tion  wof 
^^  happened 
;°;,a  puhli 
^^^'ishmentf 

'^''^  the   J 
'^'^  to  see! 
'"erc/iants 
'^''  to  pro] 

man'/"''"  ""^'^ 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


1-7 


crazy  Randolph.^  Much  is  unknown  about  our  country, 
and  yet  all  are  deeply  interested  in  it.  To-morrow  I  am 
off  to  Liverpool  again;  how  much  I  shall  enjoy  being  once 
again  with  the  charming  Rathbones. 

Green  Bank,  near  Liverpool,  September  28.  At  five  this 
morning  I  left  Manchester  and  its  smoke  behind  me ;  but 
I  left  there  the  labors  of  about  ten  years  of  my  life,  fully 
one  half  of  my  collection.  The  ride  was  a  wet  one,  heavy 
rain  falling  continuously.  I  was  warmly  welcomed  by  my 
good  Liverpool  friends,  and  though  completely  drenched 
I  felt  it  not,  so  glad  was  I  to  be  in  Liverpool  again.  My 
being  here  is  soon  explained.  I  felt  it  best  to  see  Dr. 
Traill  and  Mr.  Roscoe,  and  I  dined  with  the  latter;  we 
talked  of  Manchester  and  our  friends  there,  and  Mr. 
Roscoe  thought  well  of  the  subscription  book.  From 
here  to  Green  Bank,  where  I  am  literally  at  home.  Mr. 
Rathbone  and  Mr.  Roscoe  will  both  aid  me  in  the  drawing 
up  of  a  prospectus  for  my  work. 

Green  Bank,  September  29.     It  rained  during  the  night 
and  all  the  early  portion  of  the  day.     I  breakfasted  early, 
and  at  half-past  nine    Mr.  Rathbone  and  I  drove  in  the 
gig  to  Mrs.  Wm.  S.  Roscoe.^     After  a  little  conversation 
we  decided  nothing  could  be  done  about  the  prospectus 
without  more  definite  knowledge  of  what  the  cost  of  pub- 
lication would  be,  and  I  was  again  referred  to  Dr.  Traill. 
It  happened  that  here  I  met  a  Mr.  Bohn,  from  London, 
not  a  publisher,  but   a  bookseller  with  an   immense  es- 
tablishment, two  hundred  thousand  volumes  as  a  regular 
stock.     He  advised   me  to  proceed  at  once   to  London, 
meet  the   principal  naturalists  of  the  day,  and  through 
them  to  see  the  best  engravers,  colorists,  printers,  paper- 
merchants,  etc.,  and  thus   form  some    idea  of  the  cost; 
then  to  proceed  to    Paris,  Brussels,  and  possibly  Berlin, 

'  John  Randolph  of  Roanoke,  1773-1833,  American  orator  and  states- 
man. 

"  William  S.  Roscoe,  son  of  William  Roscoe,  1781-1843. 


128 


A  UDUBON 


with  proper  letters,  and  follow  the  same  course,  thereby 
becoming   able   to  judge   of  the  advantages    and    disad- 
vantages attached  to  each  country  and  to  determine  myself 
ivhcn,  w/icre,  and  how  the  work  should  be  undertaken; 
to   be  during  this  time,  through  the  medium  of  friends, 
correspondence,  and  scientific  societies,  announced  to  the 
world  in  some  of  the  most  widely  read  periodical  publica- 
tions.   "  Then,  Mr.  Audubon,  issue  a  prospectus,  and  bring 
forth   one   number   of  your  work,  and    I  think   you  will 
succeed  and  do  well ;   but  remember  my  observations  on 
the  size  of  your  book,  and  be  governed  by  this  fact,  that 
at  present  productions  of  taste  are  purchased  with  delight, 
by  persons  who  receive  much  company  particularly,  and 
to  have  your  book  laid  on  the  table  as  a  pastime,  or  an 
evening's  entertainment,  will   be  the  principal  use  made 
of  it,  and  that  if  it  needs  so  much  room  as  to  crowd  out 
other  things  or  encumber  the  table,  it  will  not  be   pur- 
chased by  the  set  of  people  who  now  are  the  very  life  of 
the  trade.     If  large    public   institutions   only   and  a  few 
noblemen  purchase,  instead  of  a  thousand  copies  that  may 
be  sold  if  small,  not  more  than  a  hundred  will  find  their 
way    out   of  the  shops ;    the    size    must   be   suitable   for 
the  English  market''   (such   was    his   expression),  "and 
ought  not  to  exceed  that  of  double  Wilson."     This  con- 
versation took  place  in  the   presence  of  Dr.  Traill,  and 
both  he  and  Mr.  Roscoe  are  convinced  it  is  my  only  plan. 
Mr.  Bohn  told  Dr.  Traill,  as  well  as  myself,  that  exhibiting 
my  pictures  would  not  do  well ;  that  I  might  be  in  London 
a  year  before  I  should  be  known  at  all,  but  that  through 
the  scientific  periodicals  I  should  be  known  over  Europe 
in  the  same  time,  when  probably  my  first  number  would 
be  published.     He  strongly  advised  me  to  have  the  work 
printed  and  finished  in  Paris,  bring  over  to  England  say 
two  hundred  and  fifty  copies,  to   have  it  bound  and  the 
titlepage  printed,   to  be  issued  to  the  world  of  England 
as  an  English  publication.     This  I  will  not  do  ;  no  work  of 


■>-f 


/••>;■.••. 


.♦-:.>■■  •■ 


< 


*<  .y. 


■^^. 


'-^•^j, 


o/ 


'^  - 


iVo„ 


!      I; 


"RAW.v  „v  ,„ 

'■""' possession  of  M,,Ki„„,„,^ 

•^"""■•""•'■■'-'•y-Menai.  Anglesey 


'^1  •■    $ 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


129 


mine  shall  be  other  than  true  metal  —  if  copper,  copper, 
if  gold,  gold,  but  not  copper  gilded.  He  admitted  it 
would  be  a  great  undertaking,  and  immensely  laborious, 
but,  he  added,  my  drawings  being  so  superior,  I  might 
rest  assured  success  would  eventually  be  mine.  This  plan, 
therefore,  I  will  pursue  with  the  same  perseverance  that 
since  twenty-five  years  has  not  wavered,  and  God's  will 
be  done.  Having  now  determined  on  this  I  will  return 
to  Manchester  after  a  few  days,  visit  thy  native  place, 
gaze  on  the  tombs  of  thy  ancestors  in  Derby  and  Leicester, 
and  then  enter  London  with  a  head  humbly  bent,  but 
with  a  heart  intently  determined  to  conquer.  On  return- 
ing to  this  abode  of  peace,  I  was  overtaken  by  a  gentleman 
in  a  gig,  unknown  to  me  quite,  but  who  ofifered  me  a  seat. 
I  thanked  him,  accepted,  and  soon  learned  he  was  a  Mr. 
Dearman.  He  left  me  at  Green  Bank,  and  the  evening 
was  truly  delightful. 

September  jo,  Woodcraft.  I  am  now  at  Mr.  Richard 
Rathbone's;  I  did  not  leave  Green  Bank  this  morning 
till  nearly  noon.  The  afternoon  was  spent  with  Dr.  Traill, 
with  whom  I  dined ;  there  was  only  his  own  family,  and 
I  was  much  entertained  by  Dr.  Traill  and  his  son.  A  man 
of  such  extensive  and  well  digested  knowledge  as  Dr. 
Traill  cannot  fail  to  be  agreeable.  About  eight  his  son 
drove  me  to  Woodcroft,  where  were  three  other  guests, 
Quakers.  The  remainder  of  the  evening  was  spent  with 
a  beautiful  microscope  and  a  Diamond  Beetle.  Mr.  Rath- 
bone  is  enthusiastic  over  my  publishing  plans,  and  I  will 
proceed  with  firm  resolution  to  attempt  the  being  an 
author.  It  is  a  terrible  thing  to  me ;  far  better  am  I  fitted 
to  study  and  delineate  in  the  forest,  than  to  arrange 
phrases  with  suitable  grammatical  skill.  For  the  present 
the  public  exhibiting  of  my  work  will  be  laid  aside,  — 
/hope,  forever.  I  now  intend  going  to  Matlock,  and  from 
there  to  my  Lucy's  native  place,  pass  through  Oxford, 

and  80  reach  the  great  London,  and  once  more  become 
VOL.  I. — 9 


WIfl 


130 


AUDUBON 


the  man  of  business.     From  there  to  France,  but,  except 
to  see  my   venerable    mother,  I    shall   not   like   F'rance, 
I  am  sure,  as  I  now  do  England ;  and  I  sincerely  hope 
that  this  country  may  be  preferred  to  that,  on   financial 
grounds,   for   the    production  of  my   work.     Yet   I    love 
France  most  truly,  and  long  to  enter  my  old  garden  on 
the  Loire  and  with  rapid  steps  reach  my  mother, — yes, 
my  mother  I   the  only  one  I  truly  remember;  and  no  son 
ever  had   a   better,  nor  more   loving   one.     Let  no  one 
speak  of  her  as  my  "  stepmother."     I  was  ever  to  her 
as  a  son  of  her  own  flesh  and  blood,  and  she  to  me  a  true 
mother.     I  have  written  to  Louisiana  to  have  forwarded 
from  Bayou  Sara  six  segments  of  magnolia,  yellow-poplar, 
beech,  button-wood  or  sycamore,  sassafras,  and  oak,  each 
about  seven  or  eight  inches  in  thickness  of  the  largest 
diameter  that   can   be  procured    in  the  woods;   to  have 
each  segment  carefully  handled  so  as  not  to  mar  the  bark, 
and  to  have  each  name  neatly  painted  on  the  face,  with 
the  height  of  the  tree.     These  are  for  the  Liverpool  Royal 
Institution. 

Green  Bank,  October  1.     Though  the  morning  was  bright 
it  was  near  four  before   I   left  my  room  and  stepped  into 
the  fresh  air,  where  I  could  watch  the  timid  birds  fly  from 
bush  to  bush  before  me.     I  turned  towards  the  Mersey 
reflecting  the  calm,  serene  skies,  and  listened  to  the  voice 
of  the  Quail,  here  so  shy.     I  walked  to  the  tide-beaten 
beach  and  watched  the  Solan  Goose  in  search  of  a  retreat 
from  the  destroyer,  man.     Suddenly  a  poorly  dressed  man, 
in  somewhat  of  a  sailor  garb,  and  carrying  a  large  bag 
dashed  past  me  ;  his  movement  suggested  flight,  and  in- 
stinctively I  called,  "  Stop  thief!  "  and  made  towards  him 
in  a  style  that  I  am  sure  he  had  never  seen  used  by  the 
gentlemen  of  the  customs,  who  at  this  hour  are  doubtless 
usually  drowsy.     I  was  not  arm.ed,  but  to  my  .surprise  he 
turned,  fell  at  my  feet,  and  with  eyes  starting  from  his  head 
with  apprehension,  begged  for  mercy,  said  the  bag  only 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


131 


l>  ■ .  I 


contained   a  few  leaves  of  rotten  tobacco,  and  it  was  the 
first  time  he  had  ever  smuggled.     This,  then,  was  a  smug- 
gler!    I  told  him  to  rise,  and  as  he  did  so  I  perceived  the 
boat  that  had  landed  him.     There  were  five  men  in  it,  but 
instead  of  landing  and  defending  their  companion,  they 
fled  by  rowing,  like  cowards,  swiftly  away.     I  was  aston- 
ished at  such  conduct  from  Englishmen.     I  told  the  abject 
creature  to  bring  his  bag  and  open  it;  this  he  did.     It  was 
full  of  excellent  tobacco,  but  the  poor  wretch  looked  ill 
and  half  starved,  and  I  never  saw  a  human  being  more 
terrified.     He   besought  me  to  take  the  tobacco  and   let 
him  go,  that  it  was  of  the  rarest*  quality.     I  assured  him  I 
never  had  smoked  a  single  cigar,  nor  did  I  intend  to,  and 
told  him  to  take  care  he  did  not  offend  a  second  time. 
One  of  my  pockets  was  filled  with  the  copper  stuff  the 
shop-keepers  here  give,  which  they  call  penny.     I  gave 
them  all  to  him,  and  told  him  to  go.     He  thanked  me  many 
times  and  disappeared  through  a  thick  hedge.     The  bag 
must  have  contained  fifty  pounds  of  fine  tobacco  and  two 
pistols,  which  were  not  loaded,  or  so  he  said.     I  walked 
back  to  Green  Bank  thinking  of  the  smuggler.    When  I 
told  Mr.  Rathbone  of  my  adventure  he  said  I  had  been 
extremely  rash,  and  that  I  might  have  been  shot  dead  on 
the  spot,  as  these  men  are  often  desperadoes.     Well !  I 
suppose  I  might  have  thought  of  this,  but  dear  me !  one 
cannot  always  think  over  every  action  carefully  before  com- 
mitting it.      On  my  way  back  I  passed  a  man  digging 
potatoes  ;  they  were  small  and  indifferently  formed.     The 
season  has  been  uncommonly  dry  and  hot  —  so  the  English 
say ;  for  my  part  I  am  almost  freezing  most  of  the  time, 
and  I  have  a  bad  cough. 

October  Q.  This  morning  Mrs.  Rathbone  asked  me  if  I 
would  draw  her  a  sketch  of  the  Wild  Turkey,  about  the 
size  of  my  thumb-nail.  I  assured  her  I  would  with  pleasure, 
but  that  I  could  perhaps  do  better  did  I  know  for  what 
purpose.     She  colored  slightly,  and  replied  after  a  moment 


132 


AUDUBON 


that  it  was  for  something  she  desired  to  have  made ;  so 
after  I  had  reached  the  Institution  and  finished  my  business 
there,  I  sat  opposite  my  twenty-three  hours'  picture  and 
made  the   diminutive    sketch    in    less    than   twenty-three 
minutes.     The  evening  was  spent  at  Woodcroft,  and  Mr. 
Rathbone  sent  his  servant  to  drive  me  in  the  gig  to  Green 
Bank,  the  night  being  cold  and  damp.     The  man  was  quite 
surprised  I  did  not  make  use  of  a  great  coat  which  had 
been   placed  at  my  disposal.     How  little   he  knew  how 
often  I  had  lain  down  to  rest,  wet,  hungry,  harassed  and 
full  of  sorrow,  with  millions  of  mosquitoes  buzzing  round 
me  as  I  lay  awake  listening  to  the  Chuckmill's  Widow,  the 
Horned  Owl,  and  the  hoarse  Bull-frog,  impatiently  awaiting 
the  return  of  day  to  enable  me  to  hunt  the  forests  and 
feast  my  eyes  on  their  beautiful  inhabitants.     I  thought  of 
all  this  and  thfen  moved   the  scene  to  the  hunter's  cabin. 
Again  wet,  harassed,  and  hungry,  I  felt  the  sudden  warmth 
of  the  "  Welcome,  stranger !  "   saw  the  busy  wife  unhook 
dry  clothes  from  the  side  of  the  log  hut,  untie  my  moc- 
casins, and    take    my  deerskin    coat;    I   saw  the  athletic 
husband  wipe  my  gun,  clean  the  locks,  hang  all  over  the 
bright  fire ;  the  eldest  boy  pile  on  more  wood,  whilst  my 
ears  were  greeted  with  the  sound  of  the  handmill  crushing 
the  coflfee,  or  the  rye,  for  my  evening  drink  ;  I  saw  the  lit- 
tle ones,  roused  by  the  stranger's  arrival,  peeping  from 
under  the  Buffalo  robe,  and  then  turn  over  on  the  Black  Bear 
skin  '.o  resume  their  slumbers.     I  saw  all  this,  and  then 
arrived  at  Green  Bank  to  meet  the  same  hearty  welcome. 
The  squatter  is  rough,  true,  and  hospitable  ;   my  friends 
here  polished,  true,  and  generous.     Both  give  what  they 
have,  freely,  and  he  who  during  the  tough  storms  of  life 
can   be    in    such    spots   may  well    say  he   has  known 
happiness. 

Green  Bank,  October  3.  To-day  I  have  visited  the  jail 
at  Liverpool.  The  situation  is  fine,  it  is  near  the  mouth  of 
the  estuary  that  is  called  the  river  Mersey,  and  from  its 


Ife 


■t' 


1 

m 

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AUDUBON    IN    INDIAN    DRESS. 

From  ,1  pencil  sketch  ilrawii  hy  liinisclf  for  Mi>s  Ratlili..iic,  iH.-6.     New  in  ilie  |ossi-ssiim  i)f  Mrs.  Abrah.iiii 
Dixcin  («<•;■  Rallihom:),  I.nnd'.n,  i;iij;laiul. 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOUR  VALS 


133 


walls  is  an  extensive  view  of  the  Irish  Channel.     The  area 
owned  by  this  institution  is  about  eight  acres.     It  is  built 
almost  circular  in  form,  having  gardens  in  the  court  in  the 
centre,  a  court  of  sessions  on  one  side  and  the  main  en- 
trance on  the  other.     It  contains,  besides  the  usual  cells,  a 
chapel,  and  yards  in  which  the  prisoners  take  exercise, 
kitchens,  store-rooms,  etc.,  besides  treadmills.     The  tread- 
mills I  consider  infamous;   conceive  a  wild  Squirrel  in  a 
round  cage  constantly  moving,  without  progressing.     The 
labor  is  too  severe,  and  the  true  motive  of  correction  de- 
stroyed, as  there  are  no  mental  resources  attached  to  this 
laborious  engine  of  shame.     Why  should  not  these  crimi- 
nals—  if  so  they  are  —  be  taught  different  trades,  enabling 
them  when  again  thrown  into  the  world  to  earn  their  living 
honestly?     It  would  be  more  profitable  to  the  government, 
and  the  principle  would  be  more  honorable.     It  is  besides 
injurious  to  health  ;  the  wheel  is  only  six  feet  in  diameter, 
therefore  the  motion  is  rapid,  and  each  step  must  be  taken 
in  quick  succession,  and  I  know  a  quick,  short  step  is  more 
fatiguing  than  a  long  one.     The  emaciated  bodies  of  the 
poor  fellows  proved  this  to  my  eyes,  as  did  my  powers  of 
calculation.     The  circulation  of  air  was  much  needed  ;  it 
was  painful  to  me  to  breathe  in  the  room  where  the  mill 
was,  and  I  left  it  saddened  and   depressed.     The  female 
department  is  even  more  lamentable,  but  I   will  say  no 
more,  except  that   my  guide    and    companion   was  Miss 
Mary  Hodgson,  a  Quakeress  of  great   benevolence  and 
solid  understanding,  whose  labors  among  these  poor  un- 
fortunates have  been  of  immense  benefit.     I  dined  with 
her,  her  sister  and  brother,  the  latter  a  merchant  of  this 
busy  city. 

Manchester,  Oetobcr  G.  This  morning  after  four  hours' 
rest  I  rose  Cc'rly.  Again  taking  my  boots  in  my  hand,  I 
turned  the  latch  gently,  and  found  myself  alone  in  the 
early  dawn.  It  was  one  of  those  mornings  when  not  suffi- 
ciently cold  for  a  frost ;  the  dew  lay  in  large  drops  on  each 


)       t 


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I 


134 


AUDUBON 


object,  weighing  down  the  points  of  every  leaf,  every  blade 
of  grass.     The  heavens  were  cloudless,  all  breezes  hushed, 
and  the  only  sound  the  twitterings  of  the   Red-breasted 
Warbler.     I    saw  the  Blackbird  mounted  on  the  slender 
larch,  waiting  to  salute  the  morning  sun,  the  Thrush  on  the 
grass  by  the  mulberry  tree,  and  the  Lark  unwilling  to  bid 
farewell  to  summer.     The  sun  rose,  the  Rook's  voice  now 
joined  with  that  of  the  Magpie.     I  saw  a  Stock  Pigeon  fly 
over  me,  and  I  started  and  walked  swiftly  into  Liverpool. 
Here,  arriving  before  six,  no  one  was  up,  but  by  repeated 
knockings  I  aroused  first  Mr.  Fillet,  and  then  Mr.  Meliy. 
On    my   return  to  the   country  I  encountered  Mr.   VVm. 
Roscoe,  also  out  for  an  early  walk.     For  several  days  past 
the  last  Swallows  have  flown  toward  the  south,  frosts  have 
altered  the  tints  of  the  foliage,  and  the  mornings  have  been 
chilly ;  and  I  was  rubbing  my  hands  to  warm  them  when  I 
met  Mr.  Roscoe.     "  A  fine,  warm  morning  this,  Mr.  Audu- 
bon."    "  Yes,"  I    replied,   "  the  kind  of  morning  I  like  a 
fire  with  half  a  cord  of  wood."     He  laughed  and  said  I 
was  too  tropical  in  my  tastes,  but  I  was  glad  to  keep  warm 
by    my  rapid  walking.     At  eleven  I  was  on  my  way  to 
Manchester,  this  time  in  a  private  carriage  with  Mrs.  Rath- 
bone  and  Miss  Hannah.     We  changed  horses  twelve  miles 
from  Green  Bank;   it  was  done  in  a  moment,  up  went  a 
new  postilion,  and  ofif  we  went.     Our  luncheon  had  been 
brought  with  us,  and  was  really  well  served  as  we  rolled 
swiftly   along.     After   plenty  of  substantial,  our  dessert 
consisted    of  grapes,  pears,  and  a  melon,  this  last  by  no 
means   so    frequently   seen    here   as   in    Louisiana.      We 
reached   smoky  Manchester  and  I  was  left  at  the  door  of 
the  Academy  of  Natural   History,  where  I  found  the  man 
I  had  lefc  in  charge  much  intoxicated.     Seldom  in  my  life 
have  I  felt  more  vexed.     When  he  is  sober  I  shall  give  him 
the  opportunity  of  immediately  finding  a  new  situation. 

Quarry  Bank,  October  7,  Saturday.     From  Green  Bank 
to  Quarry  Bank  from  one  pleasure  to  another,  is  not  like 


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Vl 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


135 


the  butterfly  that  skips  from  flower  to  flower  and  merely 
sees  their  beauties,  but  more,  I  hope,  as  a  bee  gathering 
honeyed  stores  for  future  use.  My  cold  was  still  quite 
troublesome,  and  many  remedies  were  offered  me,  but  I 
nevci  take  physic,  and  will  not,  even  for  kind  Mrs.  Gregg. 
Sunday,  October  8.  I  went  to  church  at  Mr.  Gregg's 
chapel ;  the  sermon  was  good,  and  the  service  being  over, 
took  Miss  Helen  a  long  ramble  through  the  gardens,  in 
which  even  now  there  is  much  of  beauty. 

October  9.  As  soon  as  possible  a  male  Chaffinch  was 
procured,  and  I  sat  to  draw  it  to  give  an  idea  of  what 
Mrs.  Gregg  calls  "  my  style."  The  Chaffinch  was  outlined, 
daubed  with  water-colors,  and  nearly  finished  when  we 
were  interrupted  by  callers,  Dr.  Holland  among  them,  with 
whom  I  was  much  pleased  and  interested,  though  I  am 
neither  a  craniologist  nor  a  physiognomist.  Lord  Stan- 
ford's gamekeeper  again  came  for  us,  and  we  had  a  long 
walk,  and  I  killed  a  Pheasant  and  a  Hare. 

October  10.     To-day  I  returned  to  Manchester  to  meet 

Mr.    Bohn.      We   went  to    the    Academy   together,   and 

examined    my  drawings.     Mr.    Bohn  was  at  first  simply 

surprised,  then  became  enthusiastic,   and  finally  said  they 

must  be  published  the  full    size  of  life,  and  he  was  sure 

they  would  pay.     God  grant  it !     He  strongly  advised  me 

to  leave  Manchester,  and  go  to  London,  where  he  knew  I 

should  at   once   be    recognized.      I    dined     at    the    good 

Quaker's,  Mr.  Dockray,  where   my  friends  Mrs.  and  Miss 

Rathbone   are   visiting;    there   is  a  large  and  interesting 

family.     I  sketched  an  Egret  for  one,  a  Wild  Turkey  for 

another,  a  Wood  Thrush  for  a  third. 

Bakczvell,  October  11,  I  am  at  last,  my  Lucy,  at  the 
spot  which  has  been  honored  with  thy  ancestor's  name. 
Though  dark  and  rainy  I  have  just  returned  from  a  walk 
in  the  churchyard  of  the  village,  where  I  went  with  Miss 
Hannah  Rathbone,  she  and  her  mother  having  most  kindly 
accompanied  me  hither.     It  was  perhaps  a  strange  place 


136 


AUDUBON 


to  go  first,  but  we  were  attracted  by  the  ancient  Gothic 
edifice.  It  seemed  to  me  a  sort  of  illusion  that  made  me 
doubt  whether  I  lived  or  dreamed.  When  I  think  how  fre- 
quently our  plans  have  been  laid  to  come  here,  and  how 
frequently  defeated,  it  is  no  great  wonder  that  I  find  it 
hard  to  believe  I  am  here  at  last.  This  morning  at  break- 
fast. Lady  Rathbone  spoke  of  coming  to  Matlock,  and  in 
a  few  moments  all  was  arranged.  She,  with  her  niece, 
Mrs.  Dockray,  and  Miss  Hannah,  with  several  of  the 
children  and  myself,  should  leave  in  two  chaises  at  noon. 
I  spent  the  time  till  then  in  going  over  Mr.  Dockray's 
wool  mill.  He  procures  the  wool  rough  from  the  sheep, 
and  it  is  cloth  when  he  disposes  of  it;  he  employs  about 
seventy  weavers,  and  many  other  people  in  the  various 
departments.  I  was  much  interested  in  the  dyeing  appara- 
tus. I  packed  up  a  few  of  my  drawings  to  take  with  me. 
We  started,  seven  of  us,  in  two  chaises  ;  all  was  new,  and 
therefore  interesting.  We  reached  Stockport,  a  manufac- 
turing town  lying  between  two  elongated  hillsides,  where 
v/e  changed  horses,  and  again  at  Chapel  En-La-Frith, 
thirty  miles  from  the  point  of  departure.  I  saw  a  good 
deal  of  England  that  I  admired  very  much.  The  railways 
were  new  to  me,  but  the  approach  of  the  mountains  damp- 
ened my  spirits ;  the  aridity  of  the  soil,  the  want  of 
hedges,  and  of  course  of  birds,  the  scarcity  of  cattle,  and 
the  superabundance  of  stone  walls  cutting  the  hills  in  all 
sorts  of  distorted  ways,  made  me  a  very  unsocial  companion, 
but  the  comfortable  inn,  and  our  lively  evening  has  quite 
restored  my  cheerfulness. 

Matlock,  October  12.  This  morning  I  was  out  soon  after 
sunrise ;  again  I  walked  round  the  church,  remarked  its 
decaying  state,  and  that  of  all  the  thatched  roofs  of  the 
humble  cottages.  I  ascended  the  summit  of  the  hill,  cross- 
ing a  bridge  wi.ich  spanned  a  winding  stream,  and  had  a 
lovely  view  of  the  country  just  lighted  by  the  sun's  first 
beams,  and   returned   to   the   inn,  the  Rutland  Arms,  in 


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o 


THE   EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


137 


time  for  the  hour  of  departure,  seven.  The  weather  was 
now  somewhat  fitful,  but  the  road  good,  and  the  valley 
charming.  We  passed  the  seat  of  the  Duke  of  Devonshire, 
and  Matlock  opened  to  our  eyes  in  all  its  beauty,  the  hills 
dotted  with  cottages  and  gentlemen's  seats,  the  autumnal 
tints  diversifying  the  landscape  and  enriching  beautiful 
nature;  the  scenery  reminds  me  of  that  part  of  America 
on  the  river  called  the  Clear  Juniata.  All  is  remarkably 
clean ;  we  rise  slowly  to  more  elevated  ground,  leave  the 
rive;  and  approach  the  New  Baths  Hotel,  where  our  host, 
Mr.  Saxton,  has  breakfast  ready.  After  this  we  took  a 
long  walk,  turning  many  times  to  view  the  delightful 
scenery,  though  the  weather  had  become  quite  rainy. 
We  visited  the  celebrated  cave,  each  carrying  a  lighted 
candle,  and  saw  the  different  chambers  containing  rich 
minerals  and  spars ;  the  walls  in  many  places  shone  like 
burnished  steel.  On  our  return,  which  was  down-hill,  I 
heard  with  much  pleasure  the  repeated  note  of  the  Jack- 
daws that  constantly  flew  from  hole  to  hole  along  the 
rocky  declivities  about  us.  After  dinner,  notwithstanding 
the  rain,  we  rowed  in  a  boat  down  the  stream,  to  a  dam 
and  a  waterfall,  where  we  landed,  walked  through  the 
woods,  gathered  some  beautiful  mosses,  and  saw  some  Hares, 
heard  a  Kestrell  just  as  if  in  America,  returned  to  our  boat 
and  again  rowed,  but  this  time  up-stream,  and  so  left  the 
Derwent  River, 

Matlock,  October  13.  Still  rainy,  but  I  found  a  sheltered 
spot,  and  made  this  sketch.  We  entered  part  of  the 
grounds  of  Sir  Thomas  Arkwright,  saw  his  castle,  his 
church,  and  his  meadows.  The  Rooks  and  Jackdaws  were 
over  our  heads  by  hundreds  The  steep  banks  of  the 
Derwent  were  pleasantly  covered  with  shrubby  trees;  the 
castle  on  the  left  bank,  on  a  fine  elevation,  is  too  regular 
to  be  called  (by  me)  well  adapted  to  the  rich  natural 
scenery  about  it.  We  passed  along  a  canal,  by  a  large 
manufactory,  and  a  coal-yard  to  the  inn,  the  Crumford, 


m 


138 


AUDUBON 


and  the  rest  of  the  day  was  employed  in  drawing.  The 
sketch  I  took  was  from  "The  Heights  of  Abraham,"  and 
I  copied  it  for  Miss  Hannah.  About  sunset  we  visited 
the  Rutland  Cave,  which  surpassed  all  my  expecta- 
tions ;  the  natural  chambers  sparkled  with  brilliancy,  and 
lights  were  placed  everywhere.  I  saw  there  some  little 
fishes  which  had  not  seen  the  daylight  for  three  years,  and 
yet  were  quite  sprightly.  A  certain  portion  of  the  roof 
represented  a  very  good  head  of  a  large  tiger.  I  imitated, 
at  Mrs.  Rathbone's  request,  the  Owl's  cry,  and  the  Indian 
yell.  This  latter  music  never  pleased  my  fancy  much, 
and  I  well  know  the  effects  it  produces  previous  to  and 
during  an  attack  whilst  the  scalping  knife  is  at  work.  We 
had  a  pleasant  walk  back  to  the  inn,  for  the  evening  was 
calm  and  clear,  and  the  moon  shone  brightly;  so  after  a 
hasty  tea  we  all  made  for  the  river,  took  a  boat,  and  seated 
ourselves  to  contemplate  the  peace  around  us.  I  rowed, 
and  sung  many  of  the  river  songs  which  I  learned  in 
scenes  far  from  quiet  Matlock. 

Manchester,  October  I4,  Mr.  Dockray's  House,  Hardwick. 
By  five  o'clock  this  morning  I  was  running  by  the  Der- 
went;   everything  was   covered  with  sparkling  congealed 
dew.     The  fog  arising  from  the   little   stream   only  per- 
mitted  us  to   see  its   waters   when   they  made   a   ripple 
against  some  rock.     The  vale  was  all  mist,  and  had  I  not 
known  where  I  was,  and  heard  the  notes  of  the  Jackdaws 
above  my  head,  I  might  have  conceived  myself  walking 
through   a   subterranpo'js"  passage.      But    the    sun   soon 
began  to  dispel  thf;  mist,  and  gradually  the  tops  of  the 
trees,  the  turrets  of  the  castle,  and  the    church   pierced 
through,    and   stood   as    if   suspended    above   all   objects 
below.     All  was  calm  till  a  bell  struck  my  ear,  when  I 
soon  saw   the   long  files  of  women  and  little  girls  mov- 
ing towards  Arkwright's   Mills.     Almost  immediately  we 
started    for   Bakewell,    and    breakfasted    at    the   Rutland 
Arms.      Proceeding   we   changed   our   route,    and   made 


ill 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


139 


for  the  well  known  watering  place,  Buxton,  still  in  Derby- 
shire. The  country  here  is  barren,  rocky,  but  so  pictu- 
resque that  the  want  of  trees  is  almost  atoned  for.  The 
road  winds  along  a  very  narrow  valley  for  several  miles, 
bringing  a  vast  variety  of  detached  views  before  us,  aU 
extremely  agreeable  to  the  sight.  The  scantiness  of 
vegetable  growth  forces  the  cattle  to  risk  much  to  obtain 
food,  and  now  and  then  when  seeing  a  bull,  on  bent  knee 
with  outstretched  neck,  putting  out  his  tongue  to  seize 
the  few  grasses  hanging  over  the  precipices,  I  was  alarmed 
for  his  safety.  The  Hawk  here  soars  in  vain;  after  re- 
peated rounds  he  is  forced  to  abandon  the  dreary  steep, 
having  espied  only  a  swift  Kingfisher.  Suddenly  the  view 
was  closed,  a  high  wall  of  rock  seemed  to  put  an  end  to 
our  journey,  yet  the  chaise  ran  swiftly  down-hill,  and  turn- 
ing a  sharp  angle  afforded  delight  to  our  eyes.  Here  we 
alighted  and  walked  to  view  the  beauties  around  at  our 
leisure,  and  we  reached  the  large  inn,  the  Crescent, 
where  I  met  the  American  consul,  my  friend  Mr.  Maury, 
who  has  visited  this  place  regularly  for  twenty-five  years. 
We  had  what  my  friends  called  a  luncheon ;  I  considered 
it  an  excellent  dinner,  but  the  English  eat  heartily.  On 
our  resuming  our  journey  a  fine  drizzle  set  in,  and  as  we 
neared  Manchester  the  air  became  thick  with  coal  smoke, 
the  carts,  coaches,  and  horsemen  gradually  filled  the  road, 
faces  became  less  clean  and  rosy,  and  the  children  had 
none  of  the  liveliness  found  amongst  those  in  the  Derby- 
shire Hills.  I  dreaded  returning  to  the  town,  yet  these 
days  among  the  beauties  of  England  in  such  delightful 
society  are  enough  to  refresh  one  after  years  of  labor. 

Manchester,  October  15,  Sunday.  I  went  to  the  Unita- 
rian Chapel  to  hear  a  sermon  from  the  Rev.  John  Taylor, 
but  to  my  regret  he  had  gone  to  preach  elsewhere,  and  I 
was  obliged  to  content  myself  with  another,  —  not  quite  -io 
practical  a  sermon  as  I  care  for.  I  dined  and  spent  the 
night  at  Mr.  Bentley's ;   after  retiring  to  my  room  I  was 


I40 


AUDUBON 


surprised  at  a  knock ;  I  opened  my  door  and  there  stood 
Mr.  Bentley,  who  said  he  thought  he  heard  me  asking  for 
something  as  he  passed  by.  I  told  him  I  prayed  aloud 
every  night,  as  had  been  my  habit  from  a  child  at  my 
mother's  knees  in  Nantes.  He  said  nothing  for  a  moment, 
then  again  wished  me  good-night,  and  was  gone. 

October  18.  This  evening  I  was  to  dine  with  Dr.  Hulme 
and  (as  he  said)  '^  a  few  friends;^*  so  when  at  four 
o'clock  I  entered  his  sitting-room,  I  was  surprised  to  find 
it  filled  with  ladies  and  gentlemen,  and  felt  awkward  for  a 
moment.  Some  of  my  drawings  were  asked  for,  and  at 
five  we  went  to  dinner;  after  the  ladies  had  retired,  wine 
and  wit  flowed  till  a  late  hour. 

Quarry  Bank,  12  miles  from  Manchester,  October  ig.     At 
five,  my  cane  in  hand,  I  made  my  way  from  Manchester, 
bound  on  foot  for  Quarry  Bank;  the  morning  was  pleasant 
and  I  enjoyed  my  walk  very  much,  but  found  myself  quite 
out  of  the  right  road ;   therefore,  instead  of  twelve  miles,  I 
measured  sixteen,  and  was  hungry  enough  when  I  reached 
my  destination.     I  was  soon  put  at  my  drawing,  and  drew 
the  whole  day ;  in  the  afternoon  I  began  a  sketch  of  Mr. 
Gregg,  and  felt  quite  satisfied  with  my  work,  but  not  so 
everybody  else.      Faults  were   found,  suggestions  made, 
and  I  enjoyed  the  criticisms  very  much,  especially  those 
of  an    Irish    nephew   of  Mr.  Gregg's,  who,  after   several 
comments,  drew  me  confidentially  aside,  and  asked  who 
it  was    intended    to    represent;    after   this,    amid    hearty 
laughter,  I    concluded    to  finish   it   next   day.     Later  we 
t'^ok    a   walk    and    I    entered    a   cottage    where   dwelt  a 
silk  weaver;   all   was  clean  and  well  arranged,  and  I  saw 
the   weaving    going   on    for   the    first    time    since   I   left 
France. 

October  '30.  Drawing  again  ail  morning,  and  a  walk 
later.  I  was  taken  to  a  cottage,  where  to  my  great  surprise 
I  saw  two  cases  of  well  stuffed  birds,  the  work  of  the 
weaver  who  lived  in  the  cottage.     I  was  taken  to  the  dairy, 


Oi 

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THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


141 


where   I    saw   the   finest  cattle   I    have   yet   met  with  in 
England. 

October  '21.     This  has  been  a  busy  day.    On  my  return 
from  Quarry  Bank  I  saw  Mr.  Bentley,  Mr.  Heywood,  and 
other  friends.     Mr.  H.  gave  me  a  letter  to  Professor  Jame- 
son, of  Edinburgh.     Called  on  Dr.  Hulme;   paid,  in  all, 
twenty  visits,  and  dined  with  Mr.  Bentley,^  and  with  his  as- 
sistance packed  up  my  birds  safe  and  snug,  though  much 
fatigued;  it  was  late  when  we  parted;    he   is  a  brother 
Mason  and  has  been  most  kind  to  me.     I  wrote  down  for 
Mrs.  Rathbone  a  brief  memorandum  of  the  flight  of  birds, 
with  a  few  little  pencil  sketches  to  make  my  figures  more 
interesting:  Swallows,  two  and    a   half  miles   a   minute; 
Wild  Pigeons,  when  travelling,  two  miles  per  minute ;  Swans, 
ditto  two  miles,  Wild  Turkeys,  one  mile  and  three  quarters. 
Manchester,  October  2J,  1S26,  Motiday.     This  day  was  ab- 
solutely all  spent  packing  and  making  ready  for  my  start  for 
Edinburgh ;  my  seat  in  the  coach  taken  and  paid  for, — 
three  pounds  fifteen  shillings.     I  spent   my  last  evening 
with  Mr.  Bentley  and  his  family.      As  the  coach  leaves  at 
5  A.  M.,  I  am  sleeping  at  the  inn  to  be  ready  when  called. 
I  am  leaving  Manchester  much  poorer  than  I  was  when  I 
entered  it. 

Carlisle,  Tuesday,  October  2^.  The  morning  was  clear 
and  beautiful,  and  at  five  I  left  Manchester  ;  but  as  no 
dependence  can  be  placed  on  the  weather  in  this  country, 
I  prepared  for  rain  later.  I  was  alone  in  the  coach,  and 
had  been  regretting  I  had  no  companion,  when  a  very  tall 
gentleman  entered,  but  after  a  few  words,  he  said  he  was 
much  fatigued  and  wished  to  sleep ;  he  composed  himself 
therefore  and  soon  slept  soundly.  How  I  envied  him  I 
We  rolled  on,  however,  and  arrived  at  the  village  of 
Preston,  where  we  breakfasted  as  quickly  as  if  we  had 
been  Kcntuckians.  The  coaches  were  exchanged,  packages 
transferred,  and  I  entered  the  conveyance  and  met  two 
*  I  believe  Mr.  Robert  Bentley,  the  publisher. 


142 


AUDUBON 


new  gentlemen  whose  appearance  I  liked ;  vvc  soon  com- 
menced to  chat,  and  before  long  were  wandering  ail  over 
America,  part  of  India,  and  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  We  dis- 
cussed the  emancipation  of  the  slaves,  and  the  starvation 
of  the  poor  in  England,  the  Corn  Law,  and  many  other 
topics,  the  while  I  looked  frequently  from  the  windows. 
The  approach  to  Lancaster  is  beautiful ;  the  view  of  the 
well  placed  castle  is  commanding,  and  the  sea  view  bounded 
by  picturesque  shores.  We  dined  at  Kendal,  having  passed 
through  Bolton  and  Burton,  but  before  this  my  two  inter- 
esting companions  had  been  left  behind  at  a  place  where 
we  stopped  to  change  horses,  and  only  caught  up  with  the 
coach  by  running  across  some  fields.  This  caused  much 
altercation  between  them,  the  driver,  and  the  guard  ;  one  of 
the  proprietors  of  the  coach  who  was  on  board  interfered, 
and  being  very  drunk  made  matters  worse,  and  a  complaint 
was  lodged  against  driver  and  guard.  The  tall  gentleman 
was  now  wide  awake ;  he  introduced  himself  as  a  Mr. 
Walton,  and  knew  the  other  gentlemen,  who  were  father  and 
son,  the  Messrs.  Patison  from  Cornwall ;  all  were  extremely 
polite  to  me,  a  stranger  in  their  land,  but  so  have  I  ever 
found  the  true  English  gentleman. 

We  now  entered  a  most  dreary  country,  poor  beyond 
description,  immense  rolling  hills  in  constant  succession, 
dotted  here  and  there  with  miserable  cots,  the  residences  of 
poor  shepherds.  No  game  was  seen,  the  weather  was 
bleak  and  rainy,  and  I  cannot  say  that  I  now  enjoyed  the 
ride  beyond  the  society  of  my  companions.  We  passed 
through  Penrith  and  arrived  at  Carlisle  at  half-past  nine, 
having  ridden  one  hundred  and  twenty-two  miles.  I  was 
told  that  in  hard  winters  the  road  became  impassable,  so 
choked  with  snow,  and  that  when  not  entirely  obstructed 
it  was  customary  to  see  posts  painted  black  at  the  top, 
every  hundred  yards  or  so,  to  point  out  the  road  surely. 
We  had  a  miserable  supper,  but  good  beds,  and  I  enjoyed 
mine,  for  I  felt  very  wearied,  my  cold  and  cough  having 


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THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


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been  much  increased  from  my  having  ridden  outside  the 
coach  some  thirty  miles,  to  see  the  country. 

lulinbitrjj^h,    Scotlatid,    October    ^J5,    Wednesday.       We 
breakfasted  at  Carlisle,  left  there  at  eight,  but  I  was  sadly 
vexed  at  having  to  pay  twelve  shillings  for  my  trunk  and 
portfolio,  as  I  had  been  positively  assured  at  Manchester 
that  no  further  charge  would  be  made.     For  perhaps  ten 
miles  we  passed  through   an    uncommonly  flat   country, 
meandering  awhile  along  a  river,  passed  through  a  village 
called   Longtown,   and    entered    Scotland  at  ten  minutes 
before  ten.     I  was  then  just  six  miles  from  the  spot  where 
runaway   matches    are    rendered    lawful.      The    country 
changed  its  aspect,  and  became  suddenly  quite  woody; 
we  ran  along,  and  four   times  crossed    a   beautiful  little 
stream  like  a  miniature  Mohawk;  many  little  rapids  were 
seen  in  its  windings.     The  foliage  was  about  to  fall,  and 
looked  much  as  it  does  with  us  about  our  majestic  western 
streams,  only  much  less  brilliant.     This  scenery,  however, 
lasted  only  one  stage  of  perhaps  twelve  miles,  and  again  we 
entered  country  of  the  same  dreariness  as  yesterday,  mere 
burnt  mountains,  which  were  not  interesting.    The  number 
of  sheep  grazing  on  these  hills  was  very  great,  and  they 
all  looked  well,  though  of  a  very  small  species ;   many  of 
them  had  black  heads  and  legs,  the  body  white,  with  no 
horns;    others   with    horns,  and    still   others   very   small, 
called    here    "Cheviots."       The    shepherds    were    poor, 
wrapped  up  in  a  thin  piece  of  plaid,  and  did  not  seem  of 
that  noble  race  so  well  painted  by  Sir  Walter  Scott.     I 
saw  the  sea  again  to-day.     We  dined  at  Hawick  on  ex- 
cellent sea  fish,  and  for  the  first  time  in  my  life,  I  tasted 
Scotch  whiskey.     It  appeared  very  potent,  so  after  a  few 
sips  I  put  it  down,  and  told  Mr.  Patison  I  suspected  his 
son  of  wishing  to  make  me  tipsy;  to  which  he  replied  that 
probably  it  was  to   try  if  I  would  in  such  a  case  be  as 
good-natured  as  I  was  before.     I  took  this  as  quite  a  com- 
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AUDUBON 


was  very  agreeable,  several  Scotch  gentlemen  having 
joined  us ;  some  of  them  drank  their  native  whiskey  pure, 
as  if  water,  but  I  found  it  both  smoky  and  fiery;  so  much 
for  habit.  We  passed  through  Selkirk,  having  driven 
nearly  the  whole  day  through  the  estates  of  the  young 

Duke  of ,  a  young  fellow  of  twenty  who  passes  his 

days  just  now  shooting  Black-cock ;  he  has  something  like 
two  hundred  thousand  pounds  per  annum.  Some  of  the 
shepherds  on  this  astonishing  estate  have  not  probably  more 
than  two  hundred  pounds  of  oatmeal,  a  terrible  contrast. 
We  passed  so  near  Sir  Walter  Scott's  seat  that  I  stood  uo 
and  stretched  my  neck  some  inches  to  see  it,  but  in  vair 
and  who  knows  if  I  shall  ever  see  the  home  of  the  man  t  j 
whom  I  am  indebted  for  so  much  pleasure?  We  passed  a 
few  miles  from  Melrose ;  I  had  a  great  wish  to  see  the  old 
abbey,  and  the  gentleman  to  whom  Dr.  Rutter  had  given 
me  a  letter,  but  the  coach  rolled  on,  and  at  ten  o'clock  I 
entered  this  splendid  city.  I  have  seen  yet  but  a  very 
small  portion  of  it,  and  that  by  gaslight,  yet  I  call  it  a 
splendid  city !  The  coach  stopped  at  the  Black  Bull 
Hotel,  but  it  was  so  full  no  room  could  be  procured,  so  we 
had  our  baggage  taken  to  the  Star.  The  clerk,  the  guard, 
the  driver,  all  swore  at  my  baggage,  and  said  that  had  I 
not  paid  at  Carlisle,  I  would  have  been  charged  more  here. 
Now  it  is  true  that  my  trunk  is  large  and  heavy,  and  so  is 
the  portfolio  I  carry  with  me,  but  to  give  an  idea  of  the 
charges  and  impositions  connected  with  these  coaches 
(or  their  owners)  and  the  attendants,  remark  the  )r'ce  I 
paid;  to  begin  with, — 

at  Manchester,  "^3   IS  00, 

at  Carlisle,  12  00,  and  during  the 

two  days  to  drivers  and  guards,        18  06, 


•^5     5  06, 

nearly  twenty-seven  dollars  in  our  money  for  two  days' 
travelling  from  Manchester  to  Edinburgh.     It  is  not  so 


T//E  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


145 


much  the  general  amount,  although  I  am  sure  it  is  quite 
enough  for  two  hundred  and  twelve  miles,  but  the  beggarly 
manners  used  to  obtain  about  one  half  of  it ;  to  see  a  fel- 
low with  a  decent  coat  on,  who  calls  himself  an  independent 
free-born  Englishman,  open  the  door  of  the  coach  every 
ten  or  twelve  miles,  and  beg  for  a  shilling  each  time,  is 
detestable,  and  quite  an  abuse;  but  this  is  not  all:  they 
never  are  satisfied,  and  if  you  have  the  appearance  of 
wealth  about  you,  they  hang  on  and  ask  for  more.  The 
porters  here  were  porters  indeed,  carrying  all  on  their 
backs,  the  first  I  have  seen  in  this  island.  At  the  Star  we 
had  a  good  supper,  and  chatted  a  long  time,  and  it  was 
near  one  before  the  Messrs.  Patison  and  I  parted;  Mr. 
Walton  had  gone  on  another  course.  I  thought  so  much 
of  the  multitude  of  learned  men  that  abound  in  this  place, 
that  I  dreaded  the  delivery  of  my  letters  to-morrow. 

George  St.,  Edinburgh,  October  26.  It  was  ten  o'clock 
when  I  breakfasted,  because  I  wished  to  do  so  with  the 
Patisons,  being  so  much  pleased  with  their  company.  I  was 
much  interested  in  the  different  people  in  the  room,  which 
was  quite  full,  and  the  waiters  were  kept  skipping  about 
with  the  nimbleness  of  Squirrels.  My  companions,  who 
knew  Edinburgh  well,  offered  to  accompany  me  in  search  of 
lodgings,  and  we  soon  entered  the  second  door  in  George 
Street,  and  in  a  few  minutes  made  an  arrangement  with 
Mrs.  Dickie  for  a  fine  bedroom  and  a  well  furnished  sitting- 
room.  I  am  to  pay  her  one  guinea  per  week,  which  I 
considered  low,  as  the  situation  is  fine,  and  the  rooms 
clean  and  comfortable.  I  can  see,  from  where  I  am  now 
writing,  the  Frith,  and  the  boats  plying  on  it.  I  had  my 
|>aggage  brought  by  a  man  with  a  tremendous  beard,  who 
imposed  on  me  most  impudently  by  bringing  a  brass  shil- 
ling, which  he  said  he  would  swear  I  had  given  him.  I 
gave  him  another,  threw  the  counterfeit  in  the  fire,  and 
promised  to  myself  to  pay  some  little  attention  hereafter 
to  what  kind  of  money  I  give  or  receive.     I  walked  to 

vol,.  I.  — 10 


146 


AUDUBON 


Professor  Jameson's^  in  the  Circus,  —  not  at  home;  to 
James  Hall,  Advocate,  128  George  St.,  —  absent  in  the 
country.     Dr.  Charles  Henry  of  the  Royal  Infirmary  was 
sought  in  vain,  Dr.  Thompson  was  out  also,  and  Professor 
Duncan  2  could  not  be  seen  until  six  o'clock.     I  only  saw 
Dr.  Knox  in  Surgeon's  Square,  and  Professor  Jameson  at 
the  college.     This  latter  received  me,  I  thought,  rather 
coolly;  said  that  Sir  Walter  Scott  was  now  quite  a  recluse, 
and  was  busy  with  a  novel  and  the  Life  of  Napoleon,  and 
that  probably  I  should  not  see  him.     "  Not  see   Walter 
Scott  f"  thought  I ;  "  I  SHALL,  if  I  have  to  crawl  on  all-fours 
for  a  mile !  "     But  I  was  a  good  deal  surprised  when  he 
added  it  would  be  several  days  before  he  could  pay  me  a 
visit,  that  his  business  was  large,  ind  must  be  attended  to; 
but  I  could  not  complain,  as  I  am  bent  on  doing  the  same 
towards  myself;  and  besides,  why  should  I  expect  any 
other  line  of  conduct?    I  have  been  spoiled  by  the  ever-to- 
be-remembered  families  of  Roscoes  and  Rathbones.     Dr. 
Knox  came  at  once  to  see  me,  dressed  in  an  overgown 
and  with  bloody  fingers.     He  bowed,  washed  his  hands, 
read  Dr.  Traill's  letter,  and  promised  me  at  once  to  do 
all  in  his  power  for  me  and  my  drawings,  and  said  he 
would  bring  some  scientific  friends  to  meet  me,  and  to 
examine  my  drawings.     Dr.  Knox  is  a  distinguished  anat- 
omist, and  a  great  student;    Professor  Jameson's  special 
science  is  mineralogy.     I  walked  a  good  deal  and  admired 
the  city  very  much,  the  great  breadth  of  the  streets,  the 
good   pavements   and    footways,  the   beautiful   buildings, 
their  natural  gray  coloring,  and  wonderful  cleanliness ;  per- 
haps all  was  more  powerfully  felt,  coming  direct  Irom  dirty 

J  Robert  Jameson,  the  eminent  Scotch  naturalist,  1774-1854.  Regius 
Professor  of  Natural  History  in  the  University  of  Edinburgh,  Founder  of 
the  Wemerian  Society  of  that  city,  and  with  Sir  David  Brewster  originated 
the  *'  Edinburgh  Philosophical  Review."  Wrote  many  works  on  geology  and 
mineralogy. 

*  Andrew  Duncan,  M.  D.,  1745-1828.  Lecturer  in  the  University  of 
Edinburgh. 


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THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


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Manchester,  but  the  picturesqueness  of  the  toiite  ensemble 
is  wonderful.  A  high  castle  here,  another  there,  on  to  a 
bridge  whence  one  looks  at  a  second  city  below,  here  a 
rugged  mountain,  and  there  beautiful  public  grounds, 
monuments,  the  sea,  the  landscape  around,  all  wonderfully 
put  together  indeed ;  it  would  require  fifty  different  views 
at  least  to  give  a  true  idea,  but  I  will  try  from  day  to  day 
to  describe  what  I  may  see,  either  in  the  old  or  new  part 
of  the  town.  I  unpacked  my  birds  and  looked  at  them 
with  pleasure,  and  yet  with  a  considerable  degree  of  fear 
that  they  would  never  be  published.  I  felt  very  much 
alone,  and  many  dark  thoughts  came  across  my  mind  ;  I 
felt  one  of  those  terrible  attacks  of  depression  to  which  I 
so  often  fall  a  prey  overtaking  me,  and  I  forced  myself  to 
go  out  to  destroy  the  painful  gloom  that  I  dread  at  all 
times,  and  of  which  I  am  sometimes  absolutely  afraid. 
After  a  good  walk  I  returned  more  at  ease,  and  looked  at 
a  pair  of  stuffed  pheasants  on  a  large  buffet  in  my  present 
sitting-room,  at  the  sweetly  scented  geraniums  opposite  to 
them,  the  black  hair-cloth  sofa  and  chairs,  the  little  cherubs 
on  the  mantelpiece,  the  painted  landscape  on  my  right 
hand,  and  the  mirror  on  my  left,  in  which  I  saw  not  only 
my  own  face,  but  such  strong  resemblance  to  that  of  my 
venerated  father  that  I  almost  imagined  it  was  he  that  I 
saw ;  the  thoughts  of  my  mother  came  to  me,  my  sister,  my 
young  days,  —  all  was  at  hand,  yet  how  far  away.  Ah  !  how 
far  is  even  the  last  moment,  that  is  never  to  return  again. 
Edinburgh,  October  27,  1826.  I  visited  the  market  this 
morning,  but  to  go  to  it  I  first  crossed  the  New  Town  into 
the  Old,  over  the  north  bridge,  went  down  many  flights  of 
winding  steps,  and  when  at  the  desired  spot  was  positively 
under  the  bridge  that  has  been  built  to  save  the  trouble  of 
descending  and  mounting  from  one  side  of  Edinburgh  to 
the  other,  the  city  being  mostly  built  on  the  slopes  of 
two  long  ranges  of  high,  broken  hills.  The  vegetable  mar- 
ket was  well  arranged,  and  looked,  as  did  the  sections  for 


•i     : 


li   ~ 


^  < 


148 


AUDUBON 


ti  i, 


meats  and  fruits,  attractive;  but  the  situation,  and  the  nar- 
row booths  in  which  the  articles  were  exhibited,  was,  com- 
pared with  the  Liverpool  market,  nothing.     I  ascended  the 
stairs  leading  to  the  New  Town,  and  after  turning  to  the 
right,  saw  before  me  the  monument  in  honor  of  Nelson, 
to  which   I  walked.     Its   elevated   situation,  the  broken, 
rocky  way  along  which  I  went,  made  it  very  picturesque; 
but  a  tremendous  shower  of  rain  accompanied  by  a  heavy 
gust  of  cold  wind  made  me  hurry  from  the  spot  before  I 
had  satisfied  myself,  and  I  returned  home  to  breakfast.   I  was 
struck  with  the  resemblance  of  the  women  of  the  lower 
classes  to  our  Indian  squaws.     Their  walk  is  precisely  the 
same,  and  their  mode  of  carrying  burdens  also ;  they  have 
a  leather  strap  passed  over  the  forehead  attached  to  large 
baskets  without  covers,  and  waddle  through  the  streets, 
just  like  the  Shawanees,  for  instance.    Their  complexion,  if 
fair,  is  beyond  rosy,  partaking,  indeed,  of  purple  — dull,  and 
disagreeable.     If  dark,  they  are   dark   indeed.     Many  of 
the  men  wear  long  whiskers  and  beards,  and  are  extremely 
uncouth  in  manners,  and  still  more  so  in  language.     I  had 
finished  breakfast  when  Messrs.  Patison  came  to  see  my 
drawings,  and  brought  with  them  a  Miss  Ewart,  who  was 
said  to  draw  beautifully.     She  looked  at  one  drawing  after 
another,  but  remained  mute  till  I  came  to  the  doves ;  she 
exclaimed  at  this,  and  then  told  me  she  knew  Sir  Walter 
Scott  well,  "  and,"  she  added,  "  he  will  be  delighted  to 
see  your  magnificent  collection."     Later  I  called  again  at 
Dr.  Thompson's,  but  as  he  was  not  at  home,  left  the  letter 
and  my  card ;  the  same  at  Professor  Duncan's.     I  then 
walked  to  the  fish  market,  where  I  found  Patrick  Neill,  Esq.,* 
at  his  desk,  after  having  passed  between  two  long  files  of 
printers  at  their  work.     Mr.  Neill  shook  hands  cordially, 
gave  me  his  home  address,  promised  to  come  and  see  me, 
and  accompanied  me  to  the  street,  begging  me  not  to  visit 

1  Patrick  Neill,  1776-1851,  Scottish  naturalist  and  horticulturalist.    Was 
a  printer  in  Edinburgh  at  this  time. 


m 


THE   EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


149 


the  Museum  until  Professor  Jameson  had  sent  me  a  gen* 
eral  ticket  of  admission.     I  went  then  to  the  Port  of  Leith, 
distant  not  quite  three  miles,  but  missing  my  way,  reached 
the  Frith  of  Forth  at  Trinity,  a  small  village  on  the  bay, 
from  whence  I  could  see  the  waters  of  the  German  Ocean ; 
the   shore   opposite  was  distant  about  seven   miles,  and 
looked   naked   and  hilly.     During  my  walk  I  frequently 
turned  to  view  the  beautiful  city  behind  me,  rising  in  grad- 
ual amphitheatre,  most  sublimely  backed  by  mountainous 
clouds  that  greatly  improved  the  whole.     The  wind  was 
high,  the  waters  beat  the  shore  violently,  the  vessels  at  an- 
chor pitched,  —  all  was  grand.     On  inquiry  I  found  this 
was  no  longer  an  admiral's  station,  and  that  in  a  few  more 
weeks  the  steamboats  that  ply  between  this  and  London, 
and  other  parts  of  the  north  of  this  island,  would  stop 
their  voyages,  the  ocean  being  too  rough  during  the  winter 
season.     I  followed  along  the  shores,  and  reached  Leith  in 
about  twenty  minutes.     I  saw  a  very  pretty  iron  jetty  with 
three  arches,  at  the  extremity  of  which  vessels  land  pas- 
sengers and  freight.     Leith  is  a  large  village  apparently, 
mostly    connected   with    Hamburg   and   the    seaports   of 
Holland.     Much  business  is  going  on      I  saw  here  great 
numbers  of  herring-boats  and  the  nets  for  capturing  these 
fishes;  also  some  curious  drags  for  oysters,  clams,  and 
other  shellfish.     The  docks  are  small,  and  contain  mostly 
Dutch  vessels,  none  of  them  large.     An  old  one  is  fitted 
up  as  a  chapel  for  mariners.     I  waited  till  after  sunset  be- 
fore returning  to  my  lodgings,  when  I  told  my  landlady  T 
was  going  to  the  theatre,  that  I  might  not  be  locked  out, 
and  went  off  to  see  "  Rob  Roy."     The  theatre  not  opening 
till  half-past  six,  I  spent  some  little  time  in  a  bookseller's 
shop,  reading  an  account  of  the  Palace  and  Chapel  of 
Holyrood.     The  pit,  where  I  sat,  was  crowded  with  gen- 
tlemen and  ladies ;   for  ladies  of  the  second   class  go  to 
the  pit,  the  superior  classes  to  the  boxes,  and  those  of 
neither  class  way  above.     The  house  is  small   but  well 


i  ;1  FMT 


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150 


AUDUBON 


14 


i 

i- 
[ 


lighted.  "  God  save  the  King "  was  the  overture,  and 
every  one  rose  uncovered.  "  Rob  Roy  "  was  represented 
as  if  positively  in  the  Highlands;  the  characters  were  nat- 
ural, the  scenery  perfectly  adapted,  the  dress  and  manners 
quite  true  to  the  story.  I  may  truthfully  say  that  I  saw  a 
good  picture  of  the  great  outlaw,  his  Ellen,  and  the  unre- 
lenting Dougal.  I  would,  were  it  possible,  always  see 
♦•  Rob  Roy  "  in  Edinburgh,  "  Le  Tartuffe  "  in  Paris,  and 
"  She  Stoops  to  Conquer  "  in  England.  "  Rob  Roy,"  as 
exhibited  in  America,  is  a  burlesque ;  we  do  not  even 
know  how  the  hardy  mountaineer  of  this  rigid  country 
throws  on  his  plaid,  or  wears  his  cap  or  his  front  piece, 
beautifully  made  of  several  tails  of  the  red  deer;  neither 
can  we  render  the  shrill  tone  of  the  horn  bugle  that  hangs 
at  his  side,  the  merry  bagpipe  is  wanted,  also  the  scenery. 
I  would  just  as  soon  see  "Le  Tartuffe"  in  broken  French, 
by  a  strolling  company,  as  to  see  "  Rob  Roy"  again  as  I 
have  seen  it  in  Kentucky.  It  is  almost  to  be  regretted 
that  each  country  does  not  keep  to  its  own  productions; 
to  do  otherwise  only  leads  to  fill  our  minds  with  ideas  far 
different  from  the  truth.  I  did  not  stay  to  see  "  Rosina; " 
though  I  liked  Miss  Stephens  pretty  well,  yet  she  is  by  no 
means  equal  to  Miss  Foote. 

Edinburgh,  October  28,  1826.  To-day  I  have  visited  the 
Royal  Palace  of  Holyrood ;  it  is  both  interesting  and  curi- 
ous, especially  the  chapel  and  the  rooms  where  the  present 
King  of  France  resided  during  his  exile.  I  find  Professor 
Jameson  is  engaged  with  Mr.  Selby^and  others  in  a  large 
ornithological  publication,  and  Mr.  Ed.  Roscoe  has  written, 
suggesting  that  I  try  to  connect  myself  with  them ;  but  my 
independent  spirit  does  not  turn  to  the  idea  with  any 
pleasure,  and  I  think  if  my  work  deserves  the  attention  of 
the  public,  it  must  stand  on  its  own  legs,  not  on  the  repu- 
tation of  men  superior  in  education  and  literary  acquire- 

1  Prideaux    John    Selby,    English    ornithologist,    author    of    "British 
Birds"  and  other  works;  died  1867. 


V:Wm 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


151 


ments,  but  possibly  not  so  in  the  actual  observation  of  Nature 
at  her  best,  in  the  wilds,  as  I  certainly  have  seen  her. 

October  29,  Sunday.    With  the  exception  of  the  short 
walk  to  the  post-office  with   my  letters,   I  have   been  as 
busy  as  a  bee  all  day,  for  I  have  written  much.     Yester- 
day at  ten  Messrs.  Patison  brought  twelve  ladies  and  the 
Messrs.  Thomas  and  John  Todd  of  this  city  to  see  my 
drawings  ;  they  remained  full  two  hours.     Professor  Dun- 
can came  in  and  was  truly  a  kind  friend.     After  my  com- 
pany had  left,  and  I  had  been  promised  several  letters  for 
Sir  Walter  Scott,  I  took  a  walk,  and  entered  a  public  gar- 
den, where  I  soon  found  myself  a  prisoner,  and  where, 
had   I    not  found  a  pretty  maid   who   took  pity  on  my 
itonrderiCy  I  certainly  would  have  felt  very  awkward,  as  I 
had  neither  letter  nor  pocket-book  to  show  for  my  identi- 
fication.    I  then  went  in  search  of  a  Scotch  pebble  ;  one 
attracted  me,  but  a  boy  in  the  shop  said  his  father  could 
make  one  still  handsomer.     I  wanted  not  pebbles  made  by 
man,  I  wanted  them  the  result  of  nature,  but  I  enquired 
of  the  lad  how  they  were  made.     Without  hesitation  the 
boy  answered :   "  by  fire-heat,  and  whilst  the  pores  of  the 
pebbles   are    open   colored    infusions    are    impregnated." 
Now  what  will  not  man  do  to  deceive   his   brother?     I 
called  on  Mr.  Jeffrey,^  who  was  not  in;  he  comes  from 
his  Hall,  two  and  a  half  miles  ofif,  every  day  for  two  hours, 
from  two  to  four  o'clock  ;  therefore  I  entered  his  sanctum 
sanctorum,  sealed  the  letter,  and  wrote  on  my  card  that  I 
would  be   happy  to   see   him.     What  a  mass  of  books, 
papers,    portfolios,   dirt,   beautiful  paintings,   engravings, 
casts,  with   such   parcels   of  unopened   packages   all   di- 
rected "  Francis  Jeffrey,  Esq."     Whilst   I  looked   at  this 
mass  I  thought.  What  have  /  done,  compared  with  what 
this  man  has  done,  and  has  to  do?     I  much  long  to  see 
the  famous  critic.  As  I  came  away  my  thoughts  reverted  to 

'  Lord  Francis  Jeffrey,  1773-1850,  the  distinguished  Scottish  critic  and 
essayist. 


%    !      1^ 


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1 

152 


/4  UDUDON 


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1 

i^y 

1 

Holyrood  Palace.     What  a  variety  of  causes  has  brought 
king  after  king  to  that  spot;  what  horrors  have  been  com- 
mitted there  !     The  general  structure  is  not  of  a  defensive 
nature ;   it  lies  in  a  valley,  and  has  simply  its  walls  to  guard 
it.     I  was  surprised  that  the  narrow  stairs  which  led  to  the 
small  chamber  where  the  murder  was  committed,  com- 
municated at  once  with  the  open  country,  and  I  was  also 
astonished   to  see  that  the  mirrors  were  positively  much 
superior  to  those  of  the  present  day  in  point  of  intrinsic 
purity  of  reflection ;  the  plates  cannot  be  less  than  three- 
fourths  of  an  inch  in  thickness.     The  furniture  is  all  de- 
caying fast,  as  well  as  the  paintings  which  are  set  into  the 
walls.     The  great  room  for  the  King's  audience  contains  a 
throne  by  no  means  corresponding  with  the  ideas  de  luxe 
*hat  I  had  formed.     The  room,  however,  being  hung  in 
scarlet  cloth,  had   a  very  warm  effect,  and  I  remember 
it  with  pleasure.     I  also  recall  the  view  I  then  had  from  a 
high  hill,  of  the  whole  city  of  Edinburgh  and  the  country 
around  the  sea;  the  more  I  look  on  Edinburgh  the  better 
I  like  it.     To-day,  as  I  have  said,  I  have  been  in  my  rooms 
constantly,  and  after  much  writing  received  Dr.  Knox  and 
a  friend  of  his.     The  former  pronounced  my  drawings  the 
finest  of  their  kind  in  the  world.     No  light  praise  this. 
They  promised  to  see  that  I  was  presented  to  the  VVer- 
nerian  Society,  and  talked  very  scientifically,  indeed  quite 
too  much   so  for  the  poor  man  of  the  woods.     They  as- 
sured me  the  ornithological  work  now  about  being  pub- 
lished by  Messrs.   "  Selby,  Jameson,  and  Sir  Somebody^ 
and  Co.,"  was  a  "  job  book."     It  is  both  amusing  and  dis- 
tressing to  see  hov/  inimical  to  each  other  men  of  science 
are  ;  and  why  are  they  so  ? 

October  30.     Mr.   Neill  took   me  to   a  Mr.    Lizars.^in 
St  James  Square,  the  engraver  for  Mr.  Selby,  who  came 

1  Sir  William  Jardine. 

^  W.  H.  Lizars,  the  engraver  who  made  a  few  of  the  earliest  plates  of 
the  "  Birds  of  America." 


W 

Ui 

ta. 

un 

anc 

per 

stor 

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befo 

and  i 

wouJc 

\vhe;i 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURXALS 


153 


with  us  to  see  my  work.  As  we  walked  along  under  an 
umbrella  ho  talked  of  nothing  else  than  the  astonishing 
talent  of  his  employer,  how  quickly  he  drew  and  how  well, 
until  vvc  reached  my  lodgings.  I  lost  hope  at  every  step, 
and  I  doubt  if  I  opened  my  lips.  I  slowly  unbuckled  my 
portfolio,  placed  a  chair  for  him,  and  with  my  hear*-  like  a 
stone  held  up  a  drawing.  Mr.  Lizars  rose  from  his  seat, 
exclaiming:  "My  God!  I  never  saw  anything  like  this 
before."  He  continued  to  be  delighted  and  astonished, 
and  said  Sir  William  Jardine^  must  see  them,  and  that  he 
would  write  to  him ;  that  Mr.  Selby  must  see  them  ;  and 
when  he  left  at  dark  he  went  immediately  to  Mr.  Wm. 
Heath,  an  artist  from  London,  who  came  at  once  to  see 
me.  I  had  gone  out  and  missed  him ;  but  he  left  a  note. 
Not  knowing  who  he  might  be,  I  went  to  see  him,  up  three 
pairs  of  stairs,  <i  I'ariisan;  met  a  brunette  who  was  Mrs. 
Heath,  and  a  moment  after  the  gentleman  himself.  We 
talked  together,  he  showed  me  some  of  his  work  and  will 
call  on  me  to-morrow. 

October  31.  So  at  last  Professor  Jameson  has  called  on 
me!  That  warm-hearted  Mr.  Lizars  brought  him  this 
morning,  just  as  I  was  finishing  a  letter  to  Victor,  He 
was  kind  to  me,  very  kind,  and  yet  I  do  not  understand 
the  man  clearly;  he  has  a  look  quite  above  my  reach,  I 
must  acknowledge,  but  I  am  to  breakfast  with  him  to- 
morrow at  nine.  He  says  he  will,  with  my  permission, 
announce  my  work  to  the  world,  and  I  doubt  not  I  shall 
find  him  an  excellent  friend.  Dr.  Thompson's  sons  came 
in,  tall,  slender,  and  well-looking,  made  an  apology  for 
their  father,  and  invited  me  to  breakfast  on  Thursday; 
and  young  Dr.  Henry  called  and  also  invited  me  to  break- 
fast. Mr.  Patrick  Symes,  a  learned  Scotchman,  was  with 
me  a  long  time,  and  my  morning  was  a  very  agreeable 
one  within,  though  outside  it  was  cold  and  rained.     Edin- 

'  Scottish  naturalist,  1 800-1 874.    Published  "  Naturalists'  Library  "  and 
other  works. 


■m 


■  ^  I 


!    , 


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m 


?  I 'i 


154 


A  UDUBON 


I 


pisf  i 


burgh  even  in  the  rain,  for  I  took  a  walk,  is  surprisingly 
beautiful,  picturesque,  romantic;  I  am  delighted  with  it. 
Mr.  Lizars  has  invited  me  to  call  at  nine  to  spend  the 
evening  with  him  ;  now  I  call  it  much  more  as  if  going  to 
spend  the  night.  I  met  Mrs.  Lizars  when  I  stopped  at 
his  house  for  a  moment  to-day;  she  is  the  first  lady  to 
whom  I  have  been  introduced  here,  and  is  a  very  beauti- 
ful one.  Eleven  and  a  half  o'clock  and  I  have  just  returned 
from  Mr.  Lizars,  where  my  evening  has  been  extremely 
pleasant.  I  have  seen  some  of  Mr.  Selby's  original  draw- 
ings, and  some  of  Sir  William  Jardine's,  and  I  no  longer 
feel  afraid.  But  I  must  to  rest,  for  I  hate  late  hours  and 
love  to  be  up  before  daylight. 

November  1,      I    breakfasted   at   Professor    Jameson's. 
A  most  splendid  house,  splendid  everything,  breakfast  to 
boot.     The  professor  wears  his  hair  in  three  distinct,  dif- 
ferent   courses;    when    he    sits    fronting  the  south,  for 
instance,  the  hair  on  his  forehead  bends  westwardly,  the 
hair  behind  eastwardly,  and  the  very  short   hair   on   top 
mounts  directly  upward,  perhaps  somewhat  like  the  quills 
of  the  "  fretful  porcupine."     IJut  never  mind  the  ornamen- 
tal, external  appendages  of  his  skull,  the  sense  within  is 
great,  and  full  of  the  nobleness  which  comes  from  a  kind, 
generous  heart.     Professor  Jameson   to-day   is   no   more 
the   man  I  took   him  to   be  when   I  first  met  him.    He 
showed  me  an  uncommon  degree  of  cordiality,  and  prom- 
ised me  his  powerful  assistance  so  forcibly  that  I  am  sure 
I  can  depend  upon  him.     I  left  him  and  his  sister  at  ten, 
as  we  both  have  much  to  do  besides  talking,  and  drinking 
hot,  well  creamed  coffee ;  but  our  separation  was  not  long, 
for  at  noon  he  entered  my  room  with  several  gentlemen 
to  see  my  drawings.     Till  four  I  was  occupied  showing 
one  picture  afte;  another,  holding  each  one  at  arm's-length, 
and  was  very  tired,  anc'  my  left  arm  once  I  thought  had 
an  idea  of  revolutionizing.     When  my  guests  had  gone  I 
walked  out,  took  plenty  of  needed  exercise,  often  hcarirg 


i\c 


at 


once  I 
ranee, 


^fter  ha 

^^^  tfmbl 
Country 
iWth  her 
seen  one 


.  1..' 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


155 


)ne 


1 


tarlrg 


remarks  about  myself  such  as  "  That 's  a  German  physi- 
cian ;  "  "  There 's  a  French  nobleman."  I  ended  my  walk  at 
Mr.  Lizars*,  and  while  with  him  expressed  a  wish  to  secure 
some  views  of  beautiful  Edinburgh;  he  went  to  another 
room  and  brought  in  a  book  of  views  for  me  to  look 
at,  which  I  did  with  interest.  He  then  asked  me  to  draw 
something  for  him,  and  as  I  finished  a  vignette  he  pushed 
the  book  of  superb  Edinburgh  towards  me;  on  the  first 
leaf  he  had  wruL>,n,  "  To  John  J.  Audubon,  as  a  very  im- 
perfect expression  of  the  regard  entertained  for  his  abilities 
as  an  artist,  and  for  his  worth  as  a  friend,  by  William  H. 
Lizars,  engraver  of  the  '  Views  of  Edinburgh.' "  I  saw 
—  though  by  gas-light  —  some  of  Mr.  Lizars'  work,  print- 
ing from  copper,  coloring  with  water-color  and  oils,  etc., 
on  the  same,  for  the  first  time  in  my  life.  How  little  I 
know !  how  ignorant  I  am !  but  I  will  learn.  I  went  to 
bed  after  reading  Sir  Walter's  last  novel  till  I  was  so 
pleased  with  the  book  that  I  put  it  under  my  pillow  to 
dream  about,  as  children  do  at  Christmas  time  ;  but  my 
dreams  all  went  another  way  and  I  dreamed  of  the  beech 
woods  in  my  own  dear  land. 

November  2,  Thursday.  I  drew  the  bell  at  the  door  of 
No.  80  George  Street,  where  lives  Dr.  Thompson,  just  as 
the  great  bell  of  St.  Andrews  struck  nine,  and  we  soon  sat 
down  to  breakfast.  Dr.  Thompson  is  a  good,  and  good- 
looking  man,  and  extremely  kind ;  at  the  table  were  also 
his  wife,  daughter,  son,  and  another  young  gentleman; 
and  just  as  my  second  cup  of  coffee  was  handed  to  me  a 
certain  Dr.  Fox  entered  with  the  air  of  an  old  friend,  and 
at  once  sat  down.  He  had  been  seventeen  years  in 
France,  and  speaks  the  language  perfectly,  of  course. 
After  having  spoken  somewhat  about  the  scrubbiness  of 
the  timber  here,  and  the  lofty  and  majestic  trees  of  my 
country  dear,  I  rose  to  welcome  Mrs.  Lizars,  who  came  in 
with  her  husband  and  some  friends.  Mr.  Lizars  had  not 
seen  one  of  my  largest  drawings ;  he  had  been  enamoured 


1;  ,         I., 


i 


m  ■»  '' 


MV 


..^^ 


156 


AUDUBON 


with  the  Mocking-birds  and  Rattle-snake,  but,  Lucy,  the 
Turkeys  —  her  brood,  the  pose  of  the  Cock  Turkey  —  the 
Hawk  pouncing  on  seventeen  Partridges,  the  Whooping 
Crane  devouring  aUigators  newly  born  —  at  these  he  ex- 
claimed again   and   again.     All  were,   he  said,  wonderful 
productions ;    he  wished  to  engrave  the  Partridges  ;   but 
when  the  Great-footed  Hawks  came  with  bloody  rags  at 
their  beaks'  ends,  and  cruel  delight  in  the  glance  of  their 
daring  eyes,  he  stopped  mute  an  instant,  then  said,  "  That 
1  will  engrave  and  publish."     We  were  too  numerous  a 
party  to  transact  business,  then,  and  the  subject  was  ad- 
journed.    Fatigued  and  excited  by  this,  I  wrote  for  some 
hours,  and  at  four  walked  out  and  paid  my  respects  to 
young  Dr.  Henry  at  the  Infirmary,  —  a  nice  young  man,  — 
and   at  five   I   found  myself  at  Mr.  Lizars',  who  at  once 
began  on  the  topic  of  my  drawings,  and  asked  why  I  did 
not   publicly   exhibit   them.     I   told    him  how   kind   and 
generous  the  Institution  at  Liverpool  had  been,  as  well  as 
Manchester,  and  that  I  had  a  letter  of  thanks  from  the 
Committees.     He  returned  with  me  to  my  lodgings,  read 
the  letter,  and  we  marched  arm  in  arm  *'-om  Mrs.  Dickie's 
to  Professor  Jameson,  who  kept  the  letter,  so  he  said,  to 
make  good  use  of  it ;  I  showed  Mr.  Lizars  other  letters 
of  recommendation,  and  as  he  laid  down  the  last  he  said: 
"  Mr.  Audubon,  the  people  here  don't  know  who  5'ou  are 
at  all,  but  depend  upon   it  they  shall  know."     We  then 
talked  of  the  engraving  of  the  Hawks,  and  it  seems  that  it 
will  be  done.     Perhaps  even  yet  fame  may  be  mine,  and 
enable  me  to  provide  all  that  is  needful  for  my  Lucy  and 
my  children.     Wealth   I  do  not  crave,  but  comfort;  and 
for  my  boys  I  have  the  most  ardent  desire  that  they  may 
receive  the  best  of  education,  far  above  any  that  I  possess; 
and  day  by  day  science  advances,  new  thoughts  and  new 
ideas  crowd  onward,  there  is  always  fresh  food  for  enjoy- 
ment, study,  improvement,  and  I  must  place  them  where 
all  this  may  be  a  possession  to  them. 


-'.-■^ 


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157 


November  3,  Friday.     My  birds  were  visited  by  many 
persons  this  day,  among  whom  were  some  ladies,  artists, 
of  both  ability  and  taste,  and  with  the  numerous  gentle- 
men came  Professor  James  Wilson,^  a  naturalist,  an  agree- 
able man,  who   invited   nie   to  dine   at  his  cottage  next 
week.     Mr,  Lizars,  who   is  certainly  mon   ton   cheval  de 
bataille,  is  exerting  himself  greatly  in  my  behalf.     At  half- 
past  three  good  Mr,  Neill  ',ame,  and  together  we  walked 
towards  his  little  hermitage,    a  sweet  spot,  quite  out   of 
town;    nice    garden,    hot-house    filled   with   exotics,   and 
house-walls  peopled  by  thousands  of  sparrows  secure  in 
the  luxuriant  masses  of  ivy  that  only  here  and  there  suffer 
the  eye  to  see  that  the  habitat  is  of  stone.     The  Heron's 
sharp  lance  lay  on  his  downy  breast  while  he  balanced 
on  one   leg,  silent  and  motionless ;    the   Kittiwake    Gull 
screamed  for  food  ;  the  Cormorant  greedily  swallowed  it; 
whilst   the    waddling   Gannet   welcomed   her    master  by 
biting  his  foot,  the  little  Bantams  and  the  great  rooster 
leaped  for  the  bread  held  out,  the  faithful  Pigeon  cooed 
to  his   timid    mate,    and    the    huge    watch-dog   rubbed 
against  the  owner's  legs  with  joy.     We  entered  the  house, 
other  guests  were  there,  and  full  of  gayety  we  sat  down  to 
a  sumptuous    dinner.      Eyes    sparkled   with    wit,   sense, 
knowledge.     Mr.  Combe  ^  who   was  present  has  a  head 
quite  like  our  Henry  Clay.    My  neighbor,  Mr.  Bridges,  ^  is 
all  life ;  but  after  a  few  observations  concerning  the  birds 
of  our  woods  he  retired  to  let  the  world  know  that  many 
of  them  are  arrived  in  Scotland.     It  is  unanimously  agreed 
that  I  must  sit  for  my  portrait  to   Mr.   Syme,*  and  that 
friend  Lizars  must  engrave  it  to   be  distributed  abroad. 
On  my  return  to  my  lodgings  I  was  presented  with  some 

^  James  Wilson,  brother  of  Professor  John  Wilson  (Christopher  North), 
naturalist  and  scientific  writer,  1795-1856. 

'  George  Combe,  an  eminent  phrenologist  and  author  on  that  subject. 
Bom  and  died  in  Edinburgh,  1788-1856. 

'  David  Bridges,  editor  of  one  of  the  Edinburgh  newspapers. 

*  John  Syme.    His  portrait  of  Audubon  was  the  first  one  ever  engraved 


rfMii 


TV . 


158 


AUDUBON 


pears  and  apples  of  native  growth,  somewhat  bigger  than 
green  peas;  but  ah!  this  is  both  ungrateful  and  discour- 
teous. To-morrow  I  am  to  meet  Lord  Somebody,  and 
Miss  Stephens;  she  was  called  "that  delicious  actress" 
so  fervently  and  so  frequently  by  my  learned  friends 
that  I  reverse  my  judgment,  or  will  at  least  suspend  it, 
until  I  see  more  of  her. 

November  4,  Saturday.  Now  had  I  the  faculties  of  my 
good  friend  Mr.  Bridges,  I  should  be  able  to  write  all  that 
I  feel  towards  him  and  the  good  people  of  this  romantic 
Edina's  Academic  Halls ;  I  would  set  to,  and  write  long 
accounts  of  all  I  have  enjoyed  this  day.  But,  alas !  poor 
me !  I  can  only  scratch  a  few  words  next  to  unintelligible, 
and  simply  say  that  my  little  room  has  been  full  all  day  of 
individuals  good,  great,  and  friendly,  and  I  am  very  wearied 
to-night;  it  is  now  past  one.  I  dined  at  Mr.  Lizars',  where 
were  beauties,  music,  conviviality,  and  wit.  I  am  working 
hard  withal ;  I  do  with  four  hours'  sleep,  keep  up  a  great 
correspondence,  keep  up  my  journal,  and  write  many  hours 
on  the  letter-press  for  my  "  Birds,"  which  is  almost  done. 

November  «?,  Sunday.     At  ten   o'clock  my  room  was 
filled  with  visitors.     Friend  Bridges  came,  and  stayed  a 
long  time.     Miss  Stephens  the   actress   and  her  brother 
also  paid  me  a  visit.     Mr.  Bridges  insisted  on  my  going 
home  to  dine  with  him  at  four,  and  I  never  perceived  I 
was  in  my  slippers  till  I  reached  the  port  of  destination. 
A  Mr.  Hovey  dined  with  us.     Mrs.  Bridges  is  a  stately, 
handsome   lady,   and   the   diner  en  famille  pleased  me 
exceedingly.     I  saw  quite  a  stock  of  pictures  and  engrav- 
ings, well  selected  by   my  knowing   friend.     I   returned 
home  early  and  found  a  note  from  Mr.  John  Gregg,  who 
came  himself  later  bringing   me   a  scrubby   letter    from 
Charles  Waterton,^  and  a  sweet  little  sketch  from  fair  Ellen 
of  Quarry  Bank.     I  was  delighted  to  see  him ;  it  seemed 

1  Charles    Waterton,  English  naturalist  and  traveller,  1782-1865,  — al- 
ways an  enemy  of  Audubon's. 


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159 


like  old  times  to  me.  With  all  this  I  am  by  no  means 
in  spirits  to  write,  I  am  so  alone  in  this  strange  land, 
so  far  from  those  I  love  the  best,  and  the  future  rises 
ofttimes  dark  before  rae. 

Monday,  November  6.  The  same  sad  heart  to-day,  and 
but  little  work  and  much  company.  I  was  glad,  however, 
to  see  those  who  came,  among  others  my  coach  com- 
panion from  Manchester,  Mr.  Walton,  who  invited  me 
in  a  very  friendly  manner  to  see  him  often.  It  snowed 
this  morning,  and  was  quite  a  new  sight  to  me,  for  I  have 
not  seen  any  for  ab(mt  five  years  —  I  think.  The  papers 
give  such  accounts  of  my  drawings  and  of  myself  that 
I  am  quite  ashamed  to  walk  the  streets;  but  I  am  dis- 
pirited and  melancholy. 

Sunday,  November  19.     I  do  not  know  when  I  have  thus 
pitilessly  put  away  my  journal  for  nearly  two  weeks.     My 
head  and  heart  would  not  p-rmit  me  to  write,  so  I  must 
try  to  memorandum  now  all  I  have  seen.     What  I  have 
felt  is  too  much  for  me  to  write  down,  for  when  these 
attacks  of  depression  overwhelm  me  life  is  almost  unen- 
durable.    Every  day  I  exhibited  my  drawings  to  those 
who  came  to  see  them.     I  had  many  noblemen,  among 
whom  I  especially  liked  Sir  Patrick  Walker  and  his  lady ; 
but  I  welcomed  all  ladies,  gentlemen,  artists,  and,  I  dare 
say,  critics.     At  last  the  Committee  of  the  Royal  Institu- 
tion invited  me  to  exhibit  publicly  in  their  rooms ;   I  owe 
this  invitation,  I   know,  to  the  astonishing  perseverance 
of  some  unknown  friends.     When  my  pictures  were  re- 
moved there  I  was  no  longer  "At  Home."     I   painted 
from  dawn  to  dark,  closely,  and  perhaps  more  attentively 
than  I  ever  have  done  before.     The  picture  was   large, 
contained  a  Turkey  Cock,  a  hen,  and  nine  young,  all  the 
size  of  life.     Mr.  Lizars  and  his  amiable  wife  viyited  me 
often ;  often  I  spent  the  evenings  with  them.     Mr.  David 
Bridges,  Mr.   Cameron,  and   several  others   had   regular 
admittance,  and  they  all  saw  the  regular  progress  of  my 


!if 


rV 


i6o 


AUDUBON 


worlr ,  all,  apparently,  admired  it.  I  dined  at  many  houses, 
was  always  kindly  received,  and  as  far  as  my  isolated 
condition  and  unfortunate  melancholy  permitted,  enjoyed 
myself.  It  was  settled  by  Mr.  Lizars  that  he  would  under- 
take the  publication  of  the  first  number  of  the  "  Birds  of 
America,"  and  that  was  enough  to  put  all  my  powers 
of  acting  and  thinking  at  fever  heat.  The  papers  also 
began  to  be  more  eulogistic  of  the  merits  of  myself  and 
my  productions,  and  I  felt  bewildered  with  alternate  uncer- 
tainties of  liope  and  fear.  I  have  received  many  letters 
from  my  deir  Liverpool  friends,  and  one,  most  precious 
of  all,  from  the  wonderful  "Queen  Bee"  of  Green  Bank, 
with  a  most  beautiful  seal  of  the  Wild  Turkey  and  the 
motto  "  America,  my  country."  ^  When  my  drawings 
were  exhibited  to  the  public,  professors,  students,  artists, 
spoke  well  of  them.  I  forwarded  by  post  seventy-five 
tickets  to  the  principal  persons  who  had  been  kind  to  me, 
and  to  all  the  artists  in  Edinburgh.  I  sat  once  for  my 
portrait,  but  my  picture  kept  me  at  home  ever  since. 
I  saw,  and  dined,  and  dined  again  with  Sir  William 
Jardine,  and  like  him  very  much.  He  visited  me  fre- 
quently, and  sat  and  stood  watching  me  painting  during 
his  stay  in  the  city.  The  famous  phrenologist  George 
Combe  visited  me  also;  spoke  much  of  the  truth  of 
his  theory  as  exhibited  and  verified  by  my  poor  skill; 
begged  I  would  allow  a  cast  of  my  head  to  be  taken, 
etc.,  etc.,  and  sent  me  a  card  of  admission  to  his  lectures 
this  winter.  The  famous  Professor  Wilson  of  "  Blackwood " 
fame,  I  might  almost  say  the  author  of  "  Blackwood's 
Magazine,"  visited  me  also,  and  was  very  friendly;  indeed, 
every  one  is  kind,  most  truly  so.  How  proud  I  feel  that 
in  Edinburgh,  the  seat  of  learning,  science,  and  solidity 
of  judgment,  I  am  liked,  and  am  received  so  kindly.  How 
much  I  wish  my  Lucy  could  also  enjoy  it,  that  our  sons 

*  This  seal  Audubon  always  used  afterwards,  and  it  is  still  in  the  posses- 
sion of  the  family.  1  >     "       "       ■'"    ■• 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


i6l 


might  have  partaken  of  it,  this  would  have  rendered  each 
moment  an  age  of  pleasure.  I  have  now  determined  to 
remain  here  till  my  first  number  is  published,  when  I  shall 
(TO  to  Liverpool  again,  with  proofs  in  hand.  I  will  forward 
some  of  this  number  to  the  friends  at  home  as  well  as 
abroad,  and  will  continue  painting  here  the  while,  and  watch 
the  progress  of  the  engravers  and  colorists ;  two  drawings 
are  now  under  the  hand  of  the  engraver,  and  God  grant 
me  success.  I  am  going  to  try  to  find  time  to  spend 
a  week  at  Jardine  Hall,  and  some  days  at  Mrs.  Fletcher's ; 
it  will  remove  me  from  the  pressure  and  excitement  to 
which  I  am  hourly  subjected,  and  be  a  complete  change 
for  me  in  every  way. 

November  20. .  Whilst  my  breakfast  was  preparing,  and 
daylight   improving,  I    sat   at   my  little  table  to   write  a 
notice  of  descriptive    import  about   my  painting  of  the 
Wild  Turkeys  that   now   leaned   against   the  wall   of  my 
room,  finished.     My  breakfast  came  in,  but   my  pen  car- 
ried me  along  the  Arkansas  River,  and  so  much  did  I  long 
for  my  beloved  country  that  not  a  morsel  could  I  swallow. 
While  writing,  Mr.  Bridges,  who  usually  pays  me  a  daily 
visit,  happened  to  come  in.    I  read  my  description  and  told 
him  it  was  my  intention  to  have  it  printed,  or  written  out 
in  a  clear  hand,  to  lay  on  the  table  of  the  exhibition  room, 
for  the  use  of  the  public.     He  advised  me  to  go  to  Pro- 
fessor Wilson  for  criticism ;  so  I  went  at  once  co  his  resi- 
dence, and  reached  "  Blackwood's  "  door  about  ten  o'clock. 
I  did  not  even  ask  if  Professor  Wilson  was  in  ;  no,  I  simply 
told  the  man  to  say  Mr.  Audubon  from  America  wished 
to  speak  with  him.     In  a  moment  I  was  conducted  to  a 
room  where  I  wished  that  all  that  had  been  written  in  it 
was  my  own  to  remember,  to  enjoy,  to  profit  by;   but  I 
had  not  been  here  many  minutes  before  a  sweet  child,  a 
happy  daughter  of  this  great  man,  asked  me  to  go   up- 
stairs, saying, "  Papa  will  be  there  in  a  minute  ;  "  and  truly, 
almost  at  once  the  Professor  came  in,  with  freedom  and 

VOL.   I.  — 11 


\\ 


\  , 


I '  f 


■:i  :1 


^ 


162 


AUDUBON 


kindness  of  manner,  life  in  his  eye,  and  benevolence  in 
his  heart.     My   case   was   soon   explained ;  he  took   my 
paper,  read  it,  and  said  if  I  would  allow  him  to  keep  it, 
he  would  make  one   or  two  alterations  and  return  it  in 
good  time.     Back   to    my  lodgings    and   hungry  by  this 
time,    and   cooled   off,    my   mind    relieved,    my   painting 
finished,    I    dressed    more   carefully   and   walked    to   the 
Royal  Institution,  and  was  pleased  at  seeing  there  a  good 
deal  of  company.     But  the  disagreeable  part  of  my  day 
is  yet  to  come.     I  had  to  dine  at  Professor  Graham's,'  it 
was  five  o'clock  when  I  reached  there,  a  large  assembly 
of  ladies   and   gentlemen   were  there,  and    I   was   intro- 
duced to  Mrs.  Graham  only,  by  some  oversight  I  am  sure, 
but  none  the   less  was   my  position   awkward.     There  I 
stood,  motionless   as   a  Heron,  and  when  I  dared,  gazed 
about  me  at  my  surroundings,  but  no  one  came  near  me. 
There  I  stood  and  thought  of  the  concert  at  Manchester; 
but  there  was  this  difference :  there  I  was  looked  at  rudely, 
here  I  was  with  polite  company ;  so  I  waited  patiently  for 
a  change  of  situation,  and  the  change  came.     A  woman, 
aye,  an  angel,  spoke  to  me  in  such  a  quiet,  easy  way  that  in 
a  few  moments  my  mal  aise  was  gone ;  then  the  ringing 
of  a  bell  summoned  us  to  the  dining-room  ;  I  sat  near  the 
blue  satin  lady  (for  her  name  I  do  not  know)  who  came 

to  my  rescue,  and  a  charming  young  lady,  Miss  M ,  was 

my  companion.  But  the  sumptuous  dinners  of  this  coun- 
try are  too  much  for  me.  They  are  so  long,  so  long,  that 
I  recall  briefer  meals  that  I  have  had,  Vt'ith  much  more 
enjoyment  than  I  eat  the  bountiful  fare  before  me.  This 
is  not  a  goUter  with  friend  Bourgeat  on  the  Flat  Lake, 
roasting  the  orange-fleshed  Ibis,  and  a  few  sun-perch; 
neither  is  it  on  the  heated  banks  of  Thompson's  Creek,  on 
the  Fourth  of  July,  swallowing  the  roasted  eggs  of  a  large 
Soft-shelled  Turtle ;  neither  was   I  at  Henderson,  at  good 

1  Robert  Graham,  Scottish  physician  and  botanist,  bom  at  Stirling,  17861 
died  at  Edinburgh,  1845. 


execi 
prcse 
^  sha, 
sonai/ 

^  ^'nov 
at  a 

e/apse 
easier 
^  can 
^'^e  anci 
iar/y  X)jj 
^'■^e,  anc 
bullcy, 
re/rain 
press  fn] 


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163 


Dr.  Rankin's,  listening  to  the  howlings  of  the  Wolves, 
while  sitting  in  security,  eating  well  roasted  and  jellied 
venison,  —  no,  alas!  it  was  far  from  all  these  dear  spots, 
in  Great  King  Street,  No.  62,  at  Dr.  Graham's,  a  dis- 
tinguished professor  of  botany,  with  a  dinner  of  so  many 
rich  dishes  that  I  cannot  remember  them. 

November  24.     I  have  just  finished  a  long  letter  to  Mr. 
VVm.  Rathbone,  telling  him  of  my  reception  in  beautiful 
Edinburgh,  and  my   present  plans,  which  are   to    publish 
one  number  at   my  own  expense   and  risk,  and  with   it 
under  my  arm,  make  my  way.      If  I  can  procure  three 
hundred  good  substantial  names  of  persons  or   associa- 
tions or  institutions,  I  cannot  fail  doing  well  for  my  family  ; 
but,  to  do  this,  I  must  abandon  my  life  to  its  success,  and 
undergo  many  sad  perplexities,  and  perhaps  never  again 
—  certainly  not  for  some  years  —  see  my  beloved  Amer- 
ica.   The  work,  from   what  I  have  seen  of  Mr.  Lizars' 
execution,  will    be   equal    to    anything   in   the    world   at 
present,  and  of  the  rest  the  world  must  judge  for  itself. 
I  shall   superintend    both    engraving   and    coloring   per- 
sonally, and  I  pray  my  courage  may  not  fail ;  my  industry 
I  know  will  not.     It  is  true  the  work  will  be  procured  only 
at  a  great  expense,  but  then,  a  number  of  years   must 
elapse  before  it  is  completed,  so  that  renders  payment  an 
easier  task.     This  is  what  I  shall  try  ;  if  I  do  not  succeed 
I  can  return  to  my  woods  and  there  in  peace  and  quiet 
live  and  die.     I  am  sorry  that  some  of  my  friends,  particu- 
larly Dr.  Traill,  are  against  the  pictures  being  the  size  of 
life,  and  I  must  acknowledge  it  renders  the  work  rather 
bulky,  but  my  heart  was  always  bent  on  it,  and  I  cannot 
refrain  from   attempting    it.      I  shall  publish    the   letter- 
press in   a  separate   book,  at   the   same  time  with   the 
illustrations,  and  shall  accompany  the  descriptions  of  the 
birds  with  many  anecdotes  and  accounts  of  localities  con- 
nected with  the  birds  themselves,  and  with  my  travels  in 
search  of  them.     I  miss  my  "  Wild  Turkeys,"  on  which  I 


I  •:-. 


1    ri 
'.    if 


ii 


^% 


l|; 


164 


AUDUBON 


^ 


worked  steadily  and  from  dawn  to  dark,  a  long  time 
here,  —  for  sixteen  days.  It  would  be  impossible  forme 
to  write  down  all  my  leelings  and  thoughts  about  my 
work,  or  my  life  here ;  it  may  be  that  in  time  I  shall  be 
reconciled  or  habituated  to  the  life  I  now  lead,  but  I  can 
scarce  believe  this,  and  often  think  the  woods  the  only 
place  in  which  I  truly  live. 

November  25,  1820.     I  have  been  drawing  all   day  at 
some  Wood  Pigeons,  as  they  are  emphatically  called  here, 
though  woods  there  are  none.    The  day  was  cold,  wet,  and 
snowy.     Mr.  Lizars,  however,   called  with  Dr.  Brewster,^ 
an  eminent  and  entertaining  man.     I  received  a  note  from 
Geo.  Combe,  Esq.,  the  phrenologist,  who  wishes  to  plaster 
my  poor  head  to  take  an  impression  of  the  bumps,  ordi- 
nary and  extraordinary ;   he  also  invited  me  to  sup  with 
him  on  Monday  next.     I  was  to  dine  at  Dr.  Monroe's,  Craig- 
lockhart,  near  Slateford,  so  I  dressed  and  sent  for  a  coach 
that  took  me  two  and  a  half  miles  for  twelve  shillings,  and 
I  had  to  pay  one  shilling  toll,  —  a  dear  dinner  this.    I 
arrived  and  entered  a  house  richly  furnished,  and  was  pre- 
sented to  three  ladies,  and  four  gentlemen.     The  ladies 
were  Mrs.  Monroe,  Miss  Maria  Monroe,  and  Mrs.  Murray; 
amongst  the  gentlemen  I  at  once  recognized  the  amiable 
and  learned  Staff-Surgeon  Lyons.     Mrs.  Monroe  I  found 
a  woman  of  most  extraordinary  powers,  a  brilliant  conver- 
sationalist, highly  educated,  and  most  attractive.     She  sat 
by  me,  and  entertained  me  most  charmingly,  and  the  rest 
of  her  company  as  well.     I  need  not  say  the  dinner  was 
sumptuous,  for  I  find  no  other  kind  in  hospitable  Edin- 
burgh.    After  dinner  we  had  music  from  Miss  Monroe,  a 
skilled  songstress,  and  her  rich  voice,  with  the  pathetic 
Scotch  ballads  which  she  sang  so  unaffectedly,  brought 
tears  to  my  eyes.     My  return  to  my  lodgings  was  very 
cold,  for  snow  lies  all  about  the  hills  that  surround  this 
enchanting  city. 

1  David  Brewster,  author,  scientist,  and  philosoplier,  Edinburgh,  1781- 


u 


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I6S 


Sunday,  November  2G.    I  went  to  a  Scotch  church  this 
morning,  but  it  was  cold  and  the  services  seemed  to  me 
cold  also,  but  it  may  have  been  that  I  was  unaccustomed 
to  them.     Snow  lay  thick  on  the  ground  and  my  lodgings 
looked  cheerless,  all  but  my  picture,  at  which  I  worked  on 
my  return.     I  had  put  my  work  on  the  floor,  and  was 
standing  on  a  chair  to  see  the  effect  at  a  good  distance, 
when   Mrs.  Lizars  entered  with  her   husband ;   they  had 
come  to  invite  me  to  dine  with  them  on  roasted  sheep's- 
head  (a  Scotch  dish),  and  I  was  glad  to  accept,  for  I  was 
on  the  verge  of  a  fit  of  depression,  one  of  those  severe 
ones  when  I  am  almost  afraid  to  be  alone  in  my  lodgings ; 
alonfe  indeed  I  am,  without  one  soul  to  whom  I  can  open 
my  heart.     True,  I  have  been  alone  before,  but  that  was 
in  beloved  America,  where  the  ocean  did  not  roll  between 
me  and  my  wife  and  sons.     At  four,  therefore,  I  reached 
James'  Square  and  dined  with  these  good  people  without 
pomp  or  ostentation  ;  it  is  the  only  true  way  to  live.    Found 
the  sheep's-head  delicious,  and  spent  the  evening  most 
agreeably.     I  was  shown  many  beautiful  sketches,  and  two 
plates  of  my  birds   well   advanced.     Mr.   Lizars   walked 
home  with  me ;   the  weather  was  intensely  cold,  and  the 
wind  blew  a  gale;  on  turning  a  corner  it  almost  threw  me 
down,  and  although  warmly  dressed  I  felt  the  chill  keenly. 
This  morning  seems  a  long  way  off,  so  many  things  have  I 
thought  of  this  day. 

Monday y  November  27.  As  soon  as  it  dawned  I  was  up 
and  at  work,  and  quite  finished  my  drawing  before  break- 
fast. Mr.  Syme  came  to  see  me,  and  was  surprised  to 
find  it  done.  I  had  also  outlined  my  favorite  subject,  the 
Otter  in  a  trap.  At  twelve  I  went  to  stand  up  for  my 
picture,  and  sick  enough  I  was  of  it  by  two ;  at  the  request 
of  Mr.  Lizars  I  wear  my  wolf-skin  coat,  and  if  the  head  is 
not  a  strong  likeness,  perhaps  the  coat  may  be  ;  but  this  is 
discourteous  of  me,  even  to  my  journal.  Mr.  Lizars 
brought  a  Mr.  Key,  an  artist,  to  throw  a  sky  over  my 


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1 66 


AUDUBON 


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drawing,  and  the  gentleman  did  it  in  handsome  style,  giv- 
ing me  some  hints  about  this  kind  of  work  for  which  I  am 
grateful.  I  dined  at  home  on  herrings,  mutton-chops, 
cabbage,  and  fritters.  As  I  am  now  going  to  sup  with  Mr. 
George  Combe,  I  will  write  to-morrow  what  I  may  hear  to- 
night. A  kind  note  from  Professor  Jameson,  whom  I  have 
not  seen  for  some  time,  for  he  is  a  busy  man,  with  a  card 
of  admittance  to  the  Museum. 

Tuesday,  28th.     After  writing  thus  far  I  left  my  room 
and  went  to  watch  the  engravers  at  work  on  my  birds.    I 
was  delighted  to  see  how  faithfully  copied  they  were,  and 
scarcely  able  to  conceive  the  great  '*  adroit"  required  to 
form  all  the  lines  exactly  contrary  to  the  model  before 
them.     I  took  a  cup  of  coffee  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Lizars, 
went  home  to  dress,  and  at  nine  was  again  with  Mr.  Lizars, 
who  was  to  accompany  me  to  Mr.  Combe's,  and  reaching 
Brower  Square  we  entered  the  dwelling  of  Phrenology! 
Mr.  Scot,  the  president  of  that  society,  Mr.  D.  Stewart,^ 
Mr.  McNalahan,  and  many  others  were  there,  and  also  a 
German  named  Charles  N.  Weiss,  a  great  musician.     Mr. 
George    Combe   immediately  asked   this    gentlenian  and 
myself  if  we  had  any  objection  to  have  our  heads  looked  at 
by  the  president,  who  had  not  yet  arrived.    We  both  signi- 
fied our  willingness,  and  were  seated  side  by  side  on  a 
sofa.     When  the  president  entered  Mr.  Combe  said:  "I 
have  here  two  gentlemen  of  talent ;  will  you  please  tell  us 
in  what  their  natural  powers  consist?"     Mr.  Scot  came  up, 
bowed,  looked  at  Mr.  Weiss,  felt  his  head   carefully  all 
over,  and  pronounced  him  possessed  of  musical  faculty  in 
a  great  degree ;  I  then  underwent  the  same  process,  and 
he  said :   "  There  cannot  exist  a  moment  of  doubt  that 
this  gentleman  is  a  painter,  colorist,  and  compositor,  and 
I  would  add   an  amiable,  though  quick-tempered  man." 
Much  conversation   ensued,  we   had  supper.   Miss  Scot 

1  Dugald  Stewart,  Professor  of  Moral  Philosophy,  author,  etc.,  Edinburgh, 
1753-1828. 


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167 


and  Miss  Combe  were  present,  the  only  ladies.  After- 
wards Mr.  Weiss  played  most  sweetly  on  the  flute,  Mr. 
Scot  sang  Scotch  airs,  glees  and  madrigals  followed,  and 
it  was  after  one  o'clock  when  "  Music  and  Painting  "  left 
the  company  arm  in  arm.  I  soon  reached  my  lodgings. 
Mr.  Weiss  gave  me  a  ticket  to  his  concert,  and  Mrs.  Dickie, 
who  kindly  sat  up  for  mc,  gave  me  a  ship  letter.  I 
hoped  it  was  from  my  Lucy,  but  no,  it  was  from  Governor 
DeWitt  Clinton;  it  was  dated  thirty  days  previous  to  my 
receiving  it. 

Tuesday,  28th.  The  fog  was  so  dense  this  morning  that 
at  nine  o'clock  I  could  hardly  see  to  write.  I  put  the 
drawing  of  the  Stock  Pigeons  in  the  Institution,  framed 
superbly,  and  it  looked  well,  I  thought,  even  though  so 
dark  a  day.  I  again  stood  for  my  picture,  two  dreadfully 
long  hours,  and  I  am  sure  I  hope  it  may  prove  a  good  re- 
semblance to  my  poor  self.  Whilst  yet  in  my  hunting- 
dress,  I  received  word  that  Sir  Walter  Scott  was  in  the 
Institution  and  wished  to  see  me;  you  may  depend  I  was 
not  long  in  measuring  the  distance,  and  reached  the  build- 
ing quite  out  of  breath,  but  to  no  purpose.  Sir  Walter 
had  been  compelled  to  go  to  preside  at  a  meeting  upstairs, 
and  left  an  apology  for  me,  and  a  request  that  unless  too 
dark  for  him  to  see  my  work  I  would  wait ;  but  it  very 
soon  became  quite  dark,  and  I  therefore  abandoned  all 
thought  of  meeting  him  this  time.  I  dined  at  Mr.  Lizars', 
and  saw  the  first-proof  impression  of  one  of  my  drawings. 
It  looked  pretty  well,  and  as  I  had  procured  one  sub- 
scriber, Dr.  Meikleham  of  Trinidad,  I  felt  well  contented. 

Wednesday,  29th.  The  day  was  cloudy,  and  sitting  for  my 
portrait  has  become  quite  an  arduous  piece  of  business.  I 
was  positively  in  "  durance  vile  "  for  two  and  a  half  hours. 

Just  as  I  was  finishing  my  dinner,  Mrs.  F ,  the  cousin 

of  Mr.  Gregg,  called  ;  ladies  having  the  right  to  command, 
I  "vent  immediately,  and  found  a  woman  whose  features 
had  more  force  and  character  than  women  generally  show 


1 68 


AUDUBON 


in  their  lineaments.     Her  eyes  were  very  penetrating,  and 
I  was  struck  with  the  strength  of  all  she  said,  though  noth- 
ing seemed  to  be  studied.     She  showed    the  effects  of  a 
long,  well  learned  round  of  general  information.     She,  of 
course,  praised  my  work,  but  I  scarce  thought  her  candid. 
Her  eyes  seemed  to  reach  my  very  soul ;   I  knew  that  at 
one  glance  she  had  discovered  my  inferiority.     The  group 
of  children  she  had  with  her  were  all  fine-looking,  but  not 
so  gracefully  obedient  as  those  of  the  beautiful  Mrs.  Rath- 
bone  of  Woodcroft.     She  invited  me  to  her  home,  near 
Roslyn,  and  I  shall,  of  course,  accept  this  courtesy,  though 
I  felt,  and  feel  now,  that  she  asked  me  from  politeness 
more  than  because  she  liked  me,  and  I  must  say  the  more 
I  realized  her  intelligence  the  more  stupid  did  I  become. 
Afterwards  I  went  to  Mr,  Lizars'  to  meet  Dr.  Meikleham, 
who  wishes  me  to  go  with  him  to  Trinidad,  where  I  shall 
draw,  so  he  says,  four  hundred  birds  for  him,  for  a  publi- 
cation of  "  Birds  of  the  West  Indies."     On  Friday  I  go  to 
Mrs.  Isabella  Murray's,  to  see  her  and  some  fine  engrav- 
ings.    I  have  omitted  to  say  that  the  first  impression  of 
the  beautiful  seal  sent  me  by  Mrs.  Rathbone  was  sent  to 
my  beloved  wife ;   the  seal  itself  is  much  admired,  and  the 
workmanship  highly  praised.     Mr.  Combe  has  been  to  see 
me,  and  says  my  poor  skull  is  a  greater  exemplification  of 
the  evidences  of  the  truth  of  his  system  than  any  he  has 
seen,  except  those  of  one  or  two  whose  great  names  only 
are  familiar  to  me ;  and  positively  I  have  been  so  tormented 
about  the  shape  of  my  head  that  my  brains  are  quite  out 
of  sorts.     Nor  is  this  all ;  my  eyes  will  have  to  be  closed 
for  about  one  hour,  my  face  and  hair  oiled  over,  and  plas- 
ter of  Paris  poured  over  my  nose  (a  greased  quill  in  each 
nostril),  and  a  bust  will  be  made.     On  the  other  hand,  an 
artist  quite  as  crazy  and  foolishly  inclined,  has  said  that 
my  head  was  a  perfect  Vandyke's,  and  to  establish  this 
fact,  my  portrait  is  now  growing  under  the  pencil  of  the 
ablest  artist  of  the  science  here.     It  is  a  strange-looking 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


169 


figure,  with  gun,  strap,  and  buckles,  and  eyes  that  to  me 
arc  more  those  of  an  enraged  Eagle  than  mine.  Yet  it  is 
to  be  engraved.  Sir  Walter  Scott  saw  my  drawings  for  a 
few  moments  yesterday,  and  I  hope  to  meet  him  to-mor- 
row when  I  dine  with  the  Antiquarian  Society  at  the  Wat- 
erloo Hotel,  where  an  annual  feast  is  given.  My  work  is 
proceeding  in  very  good  style,  and  in  a  couple  of  days 
colored  plates  will  be  at  the  exhibition  rooms,  and  at  the 
different  booksellers  ;  but  with  all  this  bustle,  and  my 
hopes  of  success,  my  heart  is  heavy,  for  hoprs  are  not 
facts.  The  weather  is  dull,  moist,  and  disagrceab'v  cold  at 
times,  and  just  now  the  short  duration  of  the  daylight 
here  is  shocking  ;  the  lamps  are  lighted  in  the  streets  at 
half-past  three  o'clock  P.  M.,  and  are  yet  burning  at  half- 
past  seven  A.  M. 

November  30.     My  portrait  was  finished  to-day.     I  can- 
not say  that  I  think  it  a  very  good  resemblance,  but  it 
is  a  fine  picture,  and  the  public    must  judge  of  the  rest. 
I  had  a  bad  headache  this  morning,  which  has  now  passed ; 
to  be  ill  far  from  home  vvould  be  dreadful,  away  from  my 
Lucy,  who  would  do  more  for  me  in  a  day  than  all  the 
doctors  in  Christendom  in  a  twelvemonth.     I  visited  the 
exhibition  rooms  for   a  few  minutes;  I  would  like  to  go 
there  oftcner,  but  really  to  be  gazed  at  by  a  crowd  is,  of 
all  things,    most   detestable   to   me.      Mr.    Gregg   called 
about  four,  also  Mr.  Bridges  and  an  acquaintance  of  the 
famous    "  Alligator  Rider,"    and    I    was    told   that    Mr. 
Waterton  said  that  Joseph  Bonaparte  imitated  the  man- 
ners and   habits  of  his  b'-otner  Napoleon;  that  is  much 
more  than  I  know  or  saw.     But  St.  Andrew's  Day  and  my 
invitation  to  dine  with  the  Antiquarians  was  not  forgotten. 
At  five  I  was  at  Mr.   Lizars',  where  I   found  Mr.   Moule 
and  we  proceeded  to  the  Waterloo  Hotel.     The   sitting- 
room  was  soon  filled ;  I  met  many  that  I  knew,  and  a  few 
minutes  after  the  Earl  of  Elgin  ^  made  his  entree,  I  was 
*  Thomas  Bruce,  seventh  Earl  of  Elgin.    1777-1841. 


i 


I/O 


A  U DUB  ON 


presented  to  him  by  Mr.  Innes  of  Stow;  he  shook  hands 
with  mc  and  spoke  in  a  very  kind  and  truly  complimentary 
manner  about  my  pencil's  productions.     At  six  we  walked 
in  couples  to  the  dining-room ;   I  had  the  arm  of  my  good 
friend   Patrick  Neill,  Mr.  Lizars  sat  on  my  other  side,  and 
there  was  a  sumptuous  dinner  indeed.     It  at  first  consisted 
entirely  of  Scotch  messes  of  old  fashion,  such  as  marrow- 
bones,   codfish-heads    stuffed    with    oatmeal   and    garlic, 
black    puddings,   sheep's-heads  smelling   of  singed  wool, 
and  I  do  not  know  what  else.     Then  a  second  dinner  was 
served  quite  alauglaisc.     I  finished  with  a  bit  of  grouse. 
Then    came  on  the  toasts.      Lord  Elgin,  being  president 
and  provided  with  an  auctioneer's  mallet,  brought  all  the 
company  to  order  by  rapping  smartly  on  the  table  with 
the  instrument.     He  then  rose,  and  simply  said :   "  The 
King!  four  times  four !  "     Every  one  rose  to  drink  to  the 
monarch's  health,  and  the  president  saying,  "  Ip,  ip,  ip," 
sixteen  cheers  were  loudly   given.      The  Dukes  of  York, 
Argyle,  and  many  others  had    their  healths  drunk,  then 
Sir  Walter  Scott  (who,  to   my  great  regret,  was  not  able 
to  be  present),  and  so  on  and  on,  one  and  another,  until 
mine   was  proposed  by  Mr.  Skene,^  the  first  secretary  of 
the  society.     Whilst  he  was  engaged  in  a  handsome  pan- 
egyric the  perspiration  poured  from  me,  I  thought  I  should 
faint ;  and   I  was  seated   in  this  wretched   condition  when 
everybody  rose,  and  the  Earl  called  out:   "  Mr.  Audubon." 
I  had  seen  each  individual  when  toasted,  rise,  and  deliver 
a  speech;  that  being  the  case,  could  I  remain  speechless 
like  a  fool?     No  !    I  summoned  all  my  resolution,  and  for 
the  first  time  in  my  life  spoke  to  a  large  assembly,  saying 
these  few  words :   "  Gentlemen,  my  command  of  words  in 
which   to  reply  to  your  kindness  is  almost  as  humble  as 
that  of  the  birds  hanging  on  the  v/alls  of  your  institution. 
I  am  truly  obliged  for  your  favors.    Permit  me  to  say,  May 
God  bless  you  all,  and  may  this  society  prosper."    Helt 
1  Wm,  Forbes  Skene,  Scottish  historian. 


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171 


my  hands  wet  with  perspiration.  Mr.  Lizars  poured  me 
out  a  glass  of  wine  and  said :  "  Bravo !  take  this,"  which  I 
gladly  did.  More  toasts  were  given,  and  then  a  delightful 
old  Scotch  song  was  sung  by  Mr.  Innes  ;  the  refrain  was 
"  Tut  on  thy  cloak  about  thee."  Then  Mr.  McDonald 
sang.  Wni.  Allan,  Esq.,^  the  famous  painter,  told  a  beautiful 
story,  then  rose,  and  imitated  the  buzzing  of  a  bumble-bee 
confined  in  a  room,  and  followed  the  bee  (apparently)  as 
if  flying  from  him,  beating  it  down  with  his  handkerchief; 
a  droll  performance  most  admirably  done.  At  ten,  the 
Earl  rose,  and  bid  us  farewell,  and  at  half-past  ten  I  pro- 
posed to  Mr.  Lizars  to  go,  and  we  did.  I  was  much 
pleased  at  havin'j  been  a  guest  at  this  entertainment,  par- 
ticularly as  Lord  Elgin  expressed  a  wish  to  see  me  again. 
I  went  to  Mr.  Lizars',  where  we  sat  chatting  for  an  hour, 
when  I  returned  to  my  lodgings  and  took  myself  to  bed. 
December  1.  My  portrait  was  hung  up  in  the  exhi- 
bition room  ;  I  prefer  it  to  be  gazed  at  rather  than  the 
original  from  which  it  was  taken.  The  day  was  shock- 
ingly bad,  wet,  slippery,  cold.  I  had  to  visit  Lord  Clan- 
carty  and  his  lady  at  noon,  therefore  I  went.     I  met  Mrs. 

M and   her  children  and  the  eldest  daughter  of  Mr. 

Monroe.     Mrs.  M began  a  long  speech,  telling  me  of 

her  father,  Lord  S ,  and  h;s  loyalty  to  the  Stuarts  ;  the 

details  not  only  of  that  royal  family  but  all  the  kings  of 
Ent;land  were  being  poured  out,  and  I  should  probably 
be  there  yet,  merely  saying  "  Yes"  from  time  to  time,  if  a 
lucky  interruption  had  not  come  in  the  form  of  a  message 
from  Lord  El<-;in,  to  say  he  desired  to  see  me  at  the  Insti- 
tution. I  soon  reached  that  place,  where  I  met  Lord  Elgin, 
in  company  w:*^!!.  Secretary  Skene  and  Mr.  Hall  the  advo- 
cate, in  the  art  room.  Mr.  Hall  is  nephew  to  Lady  Doug- 
las, and  this  gave  me  an  opportunity  to  hand  him  her 
letter.     But  the  best  thing  :;o  relate  is  my  breakfast  with 

^  Afterwards  Sir  Willi.im  Allan,  historical  painter ;   in  1833  was  elected 
ptesideni  of  the  Scottish  Royal  Academy,  Edinburgh.     1782-1850. 


172 


AUDUBON 


inj 


1% 


that  wonderful  man  David  Bridges.  I  was  at  his  house  at 
a  quarter  before  nine ;  a  daughter  was  practising  the  piano, 
the  son  reading,  his  wife,  well-dressed,  was  sewing.  I 
conversed  with  her  and  looked  at  the  pictures  till  the  door 
opened  and  my  friend  came  in,  attired  in  his  robe  de 
chambrc,  shook  my  hand  warmly,  and  taking  his  handker- 
chief from  his  pocket,  he  began  whisking  and  wiping 
chimney  mantel,  tables,  chairs,  desk,  etc.,  to  my  utter 
annoyance,  for  I  felt  for  the  wife  whose  poor  housewifery 
was  thus  exposed.  After  breakfast  we  walked  to  see  my 
portrait  and  'o  criticise  it,  for  both  Mr.  Lizars  and  Mr. 
Bridges  are  connoisseurs.  In  the  evening  I  visited  Mr. 
Howe,  the  editor  of  the  "Courant"  and  then  to  the  theatre 
with  Mr.  Bridges  to  see  Wairner  (?)  perform  *'  Tyke"  in 
*'  The  School  of  Reform."  We  met  at  the  Rainbow 
Tavern,  and  soon  entered  the  theatre,  which  was  thinly 
attended  ;  but  I  was  delighted  with  the  piece,  and  the  per- 
formance of  it,  though  we  left  before  it  was  concluded  to 
attend  Mr.  Weiss's  concert  in  the  Assembly  Rooms  in 
George  Street.  The  flute  playing  was  admirable  both  in 
execution  and  tone ;  Mr.  Bridges  supped  with  me.  It  is 
now  again  one  o'clock,  and  I  am  quite  worn  out. 

December  2,  Saturday.  The  weather  was  a  sharp  frost 
till  evening,  when  it  rained.  I  was  busy  painting  all  day, 
and  did  not  put  foot  out  of  doors  till  I  went  to  dine  with 
Dr.  Brown,  the  professor  of  theology.^  Mr.  Bridges  went 
with  me,  and  told  me  that  Professor  Wilson  had  prepared 
a  notice  for  "  Blackwood's  Magazine  "  respecting  myself  and 
my  work.  I  think  the  servant  who  called  out  my  name  at 
Dr.  Brown's  must  have  received  a  most  capital  lesson  in 
pronunciation,  for  seldom  in  my  travels  did  I  hear  my 
name  so  clearly  and  well  pronounced.  Several  other 
guests  were  present,  Professor  Jameson  among  them,  and 
we  passed  a  most  agreeable  evening.     I  must  not  forget 

1  An  eminent  divine  1784-1858;  father  of  Dr.  John  Brown,  author  of 
"  Rab  and  his  Friends,"  etc. 


pICt 

CO  u/i 

this  i 

humt 

meet 

It  IS    ( 

these  j 

entit/ei 

pn'se  c 

soniewj 

Mr.  Bri 

H^e  dfn 

tJie  iadi 

fnemberl 
second  . 
'■etired  \\ 

^entleme 

^"or  wj 

past  twol 

^'^e  iongpl 

supply  ofl 

stand  it.    f 

^'ckie  to 
o'clock  bel 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


173 


that  Sir  James  Hall  and  his  brother  called  to  receive  infor- 
mation respecting  the  comfort  that  may  be  expected  in 
travelling  through  my  dear  country. 

Sunday,  December  3.  My  good  friends,  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Lizars  came  in  as  usual  after  church ;  they  like  the  Otter 
better  than  the  Turkeys.  It  was  nearly  finished,  to  the 
great  astonishment  of  Mr.  Syme  and  Mr.  Cameron,  who 
came  to  announce  that  the  rooms  at  the  Institution  were 
mine  till  the  20th  inst.  Mr.  Cameron  looked  long  at  the 
picture  and  said :  "  No  man  in  either  England  or  Scotland 
could  paint  that  picture  in  so  short  a  time."  Now  to  me 
this  is  all  truly  wonderful  ;  I  came  to  this  Europe  fearful, 
humble,  dreading  all,  scarce  able  to  hold  up  my  head  and 
meet  the  glance  of  the  learned,  and  I  am  praised  so  highly ! 
It  is  quite  unaccountable,  and  I  still  fear  it  will  not  last ; 
these  good  people  certainly  give  me  more  merit  than  I  am 
entitled  to ;  it  can  only  be  a  glance  of  astonishment  or  sur- 
prise operating  on  them  because  my  style  is  new,  and 
somewhat  different  from  those  who  have  preceded  me. 
Mr.  Bridges,  who  knows  everybody,  and  goes  everywhere, 
went  with  me  to  dine  with  Mr.  Witham  of  Yorkshire. 
We  dined  —  had  coffee  —  supped  at  eleven.  At  twelve 
the  ladies  left  us ;  I  wished  to  leave,  but  it  was  impossible. 
Dr.  Knox  said  he  wished  to  propose  me  as  an  honorary 
member  of  the  Wernerian  Society  ;  our  host  said  he^would 
second  the  motion ;  my  health  was  drunk,  and  I  finally 
retired  with  Dr.  Knox,  leaving  Mr.  Bridges  and  the  other 
gentlemen  making  whiskey  toddy  from  that  potent  Scotch 
liquor  which  as  yet  I  cannot  swallow.  It  was  now  half- 
past  two  ;  what  hours  do  I  keep !  Am  I  to  lead  this 
life  long?  If  I  do  I  must  receive  from  my  Maker  a  new 
supply  of  strength,  for  even  my  strong  constitution  cannot 
stand  it. 

Monday,  December  4-  I  gave  early  orders  to  Mrs. 
Dickie  to  have  a  particularly  good  breakfast  ready  by  nine 
o'clock  because  Mr.  Witham  had  offered  last  night  to  come 


If 


f 


1/4 


AUDUBON 


and  partake  of  it  with  me ;  I  then  took  to  my  brushes  and 
finished  my  Otter  entirely.     I  had  been  just  thirteen  hours 
at  it,  and  had  I  labored  for  thirteen  weeks,  I  do  not  think 
I  should  have  bettered  it.     Nine  o'clock  —  ten  o'clock  — 
and  no   Mr.  Witham.      I  was  to  accompany  him  to  Dr. 
Knox,  whose  lecture  on  Anatomy  he  was  to  hear.     At  last 
he  came  with  many  apologies,  having  already  breakfasted, 
and  giving  me  but  ten  minutes  for  my  morning  meal.     We 
then  hurried  off,  the  weather  beautiful,  but  extremely  cold. 
We  ascended  the  stairs  and  opened  the  door  of  the  lecture 
room,  where  were  seated  probably  one  hundred  and  fifty 
students ;    a  beating  of  feet  and  clapp'ng  of  hands  took 
place  that  quite  shocked  me.     We  seated  ourselves  and 
each  person  who  entered  the  room  was  saluted  as  we  had 
been,  and  during  the  intervals  a  low  beating  was  kept  up 
resembling  in  its  regularity  the  footsteps  of  a  regiment  on 
a  flat  pavement.     Dr.  Knox  entered,  and  all  was  as  hushed 
as  if  silence  had  been  the  principal  study  of  all  present. 
I  am   not   an   anatomist.      Unfortunately,  no!      I    know 
almost  less  than  nothing,  but  I  was  much  interested  in  the 
lecture,  which  lasted  three  quarters  of  an  hour,  when  the 
Dr.  took  us  through  the  anatomical  Museum,  and  his  dis- 
secting-room.    The    sights  were   extremely  disagreeable, 
many  of  them  shocking  beyond  all  I  ever  thought  could 
be.     Twas  glad  to  leave  this  charnel  house  and  breathe 
again  the  salubrious  atmosphere  of  the  streets  of  "  Fair 
Edina."     I  was  engaged  most  certainly  to  dine  out,  but 
could  not  recollect  where,  and  was  seated  trying  to  remem- 
ber, when  the  Rev.  W.  J.  Bakcwell,  my  wife's  first  cousin, 
and  the  son  of  Robert  Bakewell  the  famous  grazier  and 
zoologist  of  Derbyshire,  came  in  to  see  me.     He  asked 
many  questions  about  the  family  in  America,  gave  me  h!S 
card  and  invited  me  to  dine  with  him  next  Monday  week, 
which  is  my  first  unengaged  day.     I  had  a  letter  from  Mr. 
Monroe  at  Liverpool  telling  me  I  had  been  elected  a  mem- 
ber of  the  Literary  and  Philosophical  Societies  of  that 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


175 


city.  Not  being  able  to  recall  where  I  was  to  dine,  I  was 
guilty  of  what  must  seem  great  rudeness  to  my  intended 
hosts,  and  which  is  truly  most  careless  on  my  part ;  so  I 
went  to  Mr.  Lizars,  where  I  am  always  happy.  The  wild 
Turkey-cock  is  to  be  the  large  bird  of  my  first  number,  to 
prove  the  necessity  of  the  size  of  the  work.  I  am  glad  to 
be  able  to  retire  at  an  early  hour.  It  seems  to  me  an 
extraordinary  thing,  my  present  situation  in  Edinburgh; 
looked  upon  with  respect,  receiving  the  attentions  of  the 
most  distinguished  people,  and  supported  by  men  of 
science  and  learning.  It  is  wondc.-ful  to  me ;  am  I,  or  is 
my  work,  deserving  of  all  this? 

Tuesday,  December  5,  After  I  had  put  my  Otter  in  the 
exhibition  room,  I  met  Mr.  Syme  and  with  him  visited 
Mr.  Wm.  Nicholson,^  a  portrait  painter,  and  there  saw, 
independent  of  his  own  work,  a  picture  from  the  far-famed 
Snyders,  intended  for  a  Bear  beset  with  dogs  of  all  sorts. 
The  picture  had  great  effect,  fine  coloring,  and  still  finer 
finishing,  but  the  Bear  was  no  Bear  at  all,  and  the  dogs 
were  so  badly  drawn,  distorted  caricatures  that  I  am  sure 
Snyders  did  not  draw  from  specimens  put  in  real  postures, 
in  my  way.  I  was  quite  disappointed,  so  much  had  I 
heard  of  this  man's  pictures  of  quadrupeds,  and  I  thought 
of  Dr.  Traill,  who,  although  well  acquainted  with  birds 
scientifically,  told  me  he  had  an  engraving  of  birds  where 
both  legs  of  each  individual  were  put  on  the  same  side, 
and  that  he  never  noticed  the  defect  till  it  was  pointed  out 
to  him.  This  made  me  reflect  how  easily  man  can  be  im- 
pressed by  general  effect  and  beauty.  I  returned  to  the 
Institution  and  had  the  pleasure  of  meeting  Captain  Basil 
Hall,2  of  the  Royal  Navy,  his  wife,  and  Lady  Hunter. 
They  were  extremely  kind  to  me,  and  spoke  of  my  dear 
friends  the  Rathbones  and  Greggs   in   terms  which  de- 

'  William  Nicholson,  First  Secretary  of  the  Scottish  Academy  and  por- 
trait painter.     1784-1844. 

*  Traveller  and  author.    1788-1844. 


176 


A  [/DC/BOAT 


III 


lighted  me.  The  captain  asked  if  I  did  not  intend  to 
exhibit  by  gaslight,  and  when  I  '•eplied  that  the  Institution 
had  granted  me  so  much  favor  ilready  that  I  could  not 
take  it  upon  myself  to  speak  of  tha  ,  said  that  he  should 
do  so  at  once,  and  would  let  me  !:now  the  answer  from 
Mr.  Skene,  the  secretary.  I  wrote  the  history  of  my  pic- 
ture of  the  Otter,  and  sent  with  a  note  to  Professor  Wilson, 
who  had  asked  for  it. 

Wednesday,  December  6.  After  breakfast  I  called  on 
Professor  Jameson,  and  as  the  Wild  Turkey  is  to  be  in  my 
first  number,  proposed  to  give  him  the  account  of  the 
habits  of  the  Turkey  Buzzard  instead ;  he  appeared  anxious 
to  have  any  I  would  give.  I  spoke  to  him  about  the  pre- 
sentation of  my  name  to  the  Wernerian  Society ;  he  said 
it  was  desirable  for  me  to  join  it  as  it  would  attach  mc  to 
the  country,  and  he  would  give  his  aid  gladly.  I  visited 
Captain  Basil  Hall  of  the  Royal  Navy;  as  I  ascended  the 
stairs  to  his  parlor  I  heard  the  sweet  sounds  of  a  piano, 
and  found  Mrs.  Hall  was  the  performer.  Few  women  have 
ever  attracted  me  more  at  first  sight;  her  youth  and  her 
fair  face  are  in  unison  with  her  manners ;  and  her  husband 
also  received  me  most  kindly,  especially  when  I  recalled 
our  previous  slight  acquaintance.  I  spent  here  a  most 
agreeable  hour.  They  spoke  of  visiting  the  States,  and  I 
urged  them  to  do  so.  Captain  Hall,  a  nan  of  extraordi- 
nary talents,  a  great  traveller,  and  a  rich  man,  has  made 
the  most  of  all,  and  I  found  him  the  best  of  company. 
From  thence  to  friend  Neill's  establishment  in  the  Old 
Town  to  see  at  what  time  my  memoranda  must  be  ready  for 
the  press ;  to  my  astonishment  I  was  told  that  to-morrow 
was  my  last  day,  and  I  ran  home  to  scribble.  Professor 
Monroe  called  on  me  with  a  friend  and  asked  me  what  I 
would  take  to  draw  skulls,  etc.,  for  him ;  then  Mr.  Syme 
brought  an  engraver  to  consult  with  me  on  the  subject  of 
my  portrait  being  immortalized.  Young  Gregg  paid  me  a 
visit,  and  at  last  I  dressed  in  a  hurry  and  ran  to  Mr.  Lizars' 


t( 

Ai 

ar 

dfi 

Co 

iva; 

iadi 

sec 

da/K 

»vrite 

one  I 

and  I 

who  t 

me  if 

said  " 

Went; 

man,  vv 

Thitr 

t'^i  ear]; 

Pmesor 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


177 


:l     ■•. 


to  know  the  way  to  Mr.  Ritchie's,  where  I  was  to  dine. 
Mr.  Lizars  sent  a  young  man  to  show  me  the  way,  and  I 
arrived  at  the  appointed  spot  just  one  hour  too  late.  I 
dined  however,  and  dined  well.  Miss  Scott  was  there,  Miss 
Combe,  Mr.  Weiss,  and  several  others;  but  when  dinner 
was  over  and  we  ascended  to  the  tea  room,  a  crowd  of 
ladies  and  gentlemen  not  before  seen  were  in  waiting  to 
see  the  "  Woodsman  from  America."  We  had  music  and 
dancing,  and  I  did  not  leave  till  a  late  hour  and  must  now 
write  more  for  the  printers.  I  must  tell  thee  that  some- 
one gave  a  false  note  of  one  pound  at  my  exhibition  rooms, 
and  therefore  /  paid  him  well  to  see  my  birds.  A  man 
who  met  me  to-day  at  the  door  of  the  Institution  asked 
me  if  they  were  very  well  worth  seeing.  Dost  thou  think  I 
said  "  Yes  "  ?  Not  I !  I  positively  said  "  No  !  "  and  off  he 
went;  but  a  few  yards  off  I  saw  him  stop  to  talk  to  another 
man,  when  he  returned  and  went  in. 

Thursday,  December  7.  I  wrote  as  hard  as  I  could 
till  early  this  morning,  and  finished  the  paper  for  Professor 
Jameson,  who  sent  me  a  note  desiring  me  to  put  down  the 
University  of  Edinburgh  as  a  subscriber  to  my  work. 
I  was  highly  pleased  With  this,  being  a  powerful  leader. 
I  saw  in  this  day's  paper  that  Charles  Bonaparte  had  ar- 
rived at  Liverpool  in  the  "  Canada "  from  New  York. 
How  I  longed  to  see  him  !  Had  I  been  sure  of  his  remain- 
ing at  Liverpool  a  few  days,  I  positively  would  have  gone 
there  by  the  evening  mail-coach.  I  saw  to-day  two  of 
my  drawings  in  proof;  I  was  well  pleased  with  them; 
indeed  one  of  them  I  liked  better  than  the  first  that  were 
done.  My  dinner  was  at  Mr.  Howe's,  the  editor  of  the 
"Courant."  Mr.  Allan  the  artist  came  in  at  nine,  when  his 
lessons  were  just  ended  at  the  Academy  of  Arts,  —  an  ex- 
tremely agreeable  man,  full  of  gayety,  wit,  and  good  sense, 
a  great  traveller  in  Russia,  Greece,  and  Turkey. 

Friday,  December  8,    1S26.     Men    and   their   lives    are 
very  like  the  different  growths  of  our  woods ;  the  noble 
VOL.  I.  — 12 


\i 


178 


AUDUBON 


magnolia,  all  odoriferous,  has  frequently  the  teasing  nettle 
growing  so  near  its  large  trunk  as  to  sometimes  be  touched 
by  it.  Edinburgh  contains  a  Walter  Scott,  a  Wilson, 
a  Jameson,  but  it  contains  also  many  nettles  of  the  genus 
Mammalia,  amongst  which  men  hold  a  very  prominent 
station.  Now  I  have  run  into  one  of  these  latter  gentiy 
To  speak  out  at  once,  one  of  my  drawings  was  gently  pur- 
loined last  evening  from  the  rooms  of  the  Institution.  So 
runs  the  fact;  perhaps  a  few  minutes  before  the  doors 
closed  a  somebody  in  a  large  cloak  paid  his  shilling,  en- 
tered the  hall  and  made  his  round,  and  with  great  caution 
took  a  drawing  from  the  wall,  rolled  it  up,  and  walked  off. 
The  porter  and  men  in  attendance  missed  it  almost  im- 
mediately, and  this  morning  I  was  asked  if  I  or  Mr.  Lizars 
had  taken  it  to  be  engraved.  I  immediately  told  Mr. 
Lizars ;  we  went  to  Mr.  Bridges,  and  by  his  advice  to  the 
court,  where  Captain  Robeson  —  who,  by  the  way,  was  at 
the  battle  of  New  Orleans — issued  a  warrant  against  a 

young  man  of  the  name  of  I ,  deaf  and  dumb,  who  was 

strongly  suspected.   Gladly  would  I  have  painted  a  bird  for 
the  poor  fellow,  and  I  certainly  did  not  want  him  arrested, 
but  the  Institution  guards  were  greatly  annoyed  at  the 
occurrence.     However,  I  induced  Mr.  Lizars  to   call  on 
the  family  of  the  youth,  which  is  a  very  good  one  and  well 
known  in  Edinburgh.     I  returned  to  my  lodgings  and  on 
the  stairs  met  a  beggar  woman  with  a  child  in  her  arms, 
but  passed  her  without  much  notice  beyond  pitying  her 
in  her  youth  and  poverty,  reached  my  door,  where  I  saw 
a  roll  of  paper ;  I  picked  it  up,  walked  in,  opened  it,  and 
found   my  drawing  of  the   Biack-poll  Warbler!     Is  not 
this  a  curious  story?     The  thief — whoever  he  maybe, 
God  pardon  him  —  had,  we  conceived,  been  terror-struck 
on  hearing  of  the  steps  we  had  taken,  and  had  resorted  to 
this  method  of  restoring  the  drawing  before  he  was  ar- 
rested.    I  was  in  time  to  stop  the  warrant,  and  the  affair 
was  silenced.     During  the  afternoon  I  was  called  on  twice 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


179 


by  Capt.  Basil  Hall,  who  was  so  polite  as  to  present  me 
with  a  copy  of  his  work,  two  volumes,  on  South  America, 
with  a  kind  note,  and  an  invitation  to  dine  with  him  on 
Thursday  next  at  eight  o'clock.    The  weather  is  miserable. 

Saturdayy  December  9,  I  wrote  closely  all  morning 
from  six  to  twelve,  only  half  dressed,  and  not  stopping  for 
breakfast  beyond  a  cup  of  coffee,  and  while  thus  busily 
employed  Mr.  Hall  came  in  and  handed  me  a  note  from 
Lady  Hunter,  requesting  the  honor  of  my  company  on 
Saturday  next  to  dine  at  six;  he  looked  at  me  with  sur- 
prise and  doubtless  thought  me  the  strangest-looking  man 
in  the  town.  I  had  much  running  about  with  Professor 
Jameson  to  the  printer,  and  with  my  manuscript  to  Mr. 
Liz.Ts,  who  took  it  to  Professor  Brewster.  We  visited  the 
Museum  together,  called  on  a  Mr.  Wilson,  where  I  saw  a 
most  beautiful  dead  Pheasant  that  I  longed  to  have  to 
paint.  Then  to  Dr.  Lizars'  lecture  on  anatomy,  and  with 
him  to  the  dissecting-rooms,  but  one  glance  was  enough 
for  me,  and  I  hastily,  and  I  hope  forever,  made  my  escape, 
Tiie  day  was  extremely  wet,  and  I  was  glad  to  be  in  my 
room.     I  hear  Mr,  Selby  is  expected  next  Monday  night. 

^December  10,  Sunday.  My  situation  in  Edinburgh  bor- 
ders almost  on  the  miraculous.  With  scarce  one  of 
those  qualities  necessary  to  render  a  man  able  to  pass 
through  the  throng  of  the  learned  people  here,  I  am 
positively  looked  on  by  all  the  professors  and  many  of  the 
principal  persons  here  as  a  very  extraordinary  man.  I 
cannot  comprehend  this  in  the  least.  Indeed  I  have  re- 
ceived here  so  much  kindness  and  attention  that  I  look 
forward  with  regret  to  my  removal  to  Glasgow,  fifty  miles 
hence,  where  I  expect  to  go  the  last  of  this  month.  Sir 
William  Jardine  has  been  spending  a  few  days  here  pur- 
posely to  see  me,  and  I  am  to  meet  Mr.  Selby,  and  with 
these  two  gentlemen  discuss  the  question  of  a  joint  publi- 
cation, which  may  possibly  be  arranged.  It  is  now  a 
month  since  my  work  was  begun  by  Mr.  Lizars ;  the  paper 


M  ^ 


M* 


1 80 


AUDUBON 


is   of  unusual   size,   called   "double   elephant,"   and  the 
plates  are  to  be  finished  in  such  superb  style  as  to  eclipse 
all   of  the   same   kind  in  existence.     The  price  of  each 
number,  which  will  contain  five  prints,  is  two  guineas,  and 
all  individuals   have  the  privilege   of  subscribing  for  the 
whole,  or  any  portion  of  it.     The  two  plates  now  finished 
are  truly  beautiful.     This  number  consists  of  the  Turkey- 
cock,  the  Cuckoos  on  the  pawpaws,  and  three  small  draw- 
ings, which  in  the  centre  of  the  large  sheet  have  a   fine 
effect,  and  an  air  of  richness,  that  I  think  must  ensure  suc- 
cess, though  I  do  not  yet  feel  assured  that  all  will  go  well. 
Yet  on  the  other  hand,  all  things  bear  a  better  aspect  than 
I  expected  to  see  for  many  months,  if  ever.     I  think  that 
if  my  work  takes  in  Edinburgh,  it  will  aijywhere.     I  have 
strong  friends  here  who  interest  themselves  in  me,  but  I 
must  wait  patiently  till  the  first  number  is  finished.     Mr. 
Jameson,  the  first  professor  of  this  place,  and  the  conductor 
of  the  "  Philosophical  Journal,"  gives  a  beautiful  announce- 
ment of  my  work  in  the  present  number,  with  an  account, 
by  me,  of  the  Turkey   Buzzard.     Dr.  Brewster  also  an- 
nounces it,  with  the  introductory  letter  to  my  work,  and 
Professor  Wilson  also,  in  "  Blackwood's  Magazine."     These 
three  journals  print  upwards  of  thirty  thousand  copies,  so 
that  my  name  will  spread  quickly  enough.     I  am  to  deliver 
lectures  on  Natural  History  at  the  Wernerian  Society  at 
each   of  the   meetings  while   I  am   here,  and    Professor 
Jameson  told  me  I  should  soon  be  made  a  member  of  all 
the  other  societies  here,  and  that  would  give  my  work  a 
good  standing  throughout  Europe.     Much  as  I  find  here 
to  enjoy,  the  great  round  of  company  I  am  thrown  in  has 
become  fatiguing  to  me  in  the  extreme,  nor  does  it  agree 
with  my  early  habits.     I  go  out  to  dine  at  six,  seven,  or 
even  eight  o'clock  in  the  evening,  and  it  is  often  one  or 
two  when  the  party  breaks  up  ;  then  painting  all  day,  with 
my  immense  correspondence  which  increases  daily,  makes 
my  head   feel   like   an   immense    hornet's-nest,  and  my 


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l8l 


body  wearied  beyond  all  calculation;  yet  it  has  to  be 
done ;  those  who  have  my  interests  at  heart  tell  me  I  must 
not  refuse  a  single   invitation. 

December  11,  Monday.  Though  I  awoke  feeling  much 
depressed,  my  dull  feelings  were  soon  dissipated  by  letters 
from  my  sweet  wife  and  sons.  What  joy  to  know  them  well 
and  happy  on  the  14th  and  27th  of  September.  My  day 
was  a  busy  one,  and  at  seven  I  went  to  Mr.  Lizars',  havmg 
engaged  to  go  with  him  to  the  Antiquarian  Society,  where 
I  met  many  of  my  friends,  saw  a  gun-barrel  and  other 
things  that  had  belonged  to  the  Spanish  Armada,  and  heard 
a  curious  and  interesting  account  of  that  vast  fleet  read  by 
Dr.  Hibbert,  and  saw  the  Scottish  antiquities  belonging  to 
the  society. 

Tuesday,  December  12.     This  morning  at  ten  I  went  to 
the  house  of  Dr.  Brewster,  whom  I  found  writing  in  a  large 
room  with  several    fine    pictures  on   the  walls.      He  re- 
ceived me  very  kindly,  and    in    a  few  minutes   I  began 
reading  my  paper  on  the    habits  of  the   Carrion   Crow, 
Vnltnr  atratiis.      About  midway  my  nervousness  affected 
my  respiration  ;  I    paused  a  moment,  and  he  was  good 
enough  to  say  it  was  highly  interesting.     I  resumed,  and 
went  on  to  the  end,  much  to  my  relief.     He  who  has  been 
brought   up    an    auctioneer,    or   on   the   boards  of  some 
theatre,  with  all  the  knowledge  of  the  proper  usage  of  the 
voice,  and  all  the  aplomb  such  a  life  would  give,  knows 
nothing  of  the  feelings  of  bashfulness  which  agitated  me,  a 
man  who  never  looked  into  an  English  grammar  and  who 
has  forgotten    most   of  what  he  learned  in  French  and 
Spanish  ones  —  a  man  who  has  always  felt  awkward  and 
shy  in  the  presence  of  a  stranger  —  a  man  habituated  to 
ramble  alone,  with   his    thoughts   usually   bent    on    the 
beauties  of  Nature  herself  —  this  man,  me,  to  be  seated 
opposite  Dr.  Brewster  in  Edinburgh,  reading  one  of  my 
puny  efforts  at  describing  habits  of  birds  that  none  but 
an  Almighty  Creator  can  ever  know,  was  ridiculously  ab- 


I 


Hi'  •' 


182 


AUDUBON 


T 


surd  in  my  estimation,  during  all  the  time;  besides,  I  also 
felt  the   penetrating  looks   and    keen  observation  of  the 
learned    man  before  me,  so  that  the  cold  sweat  started 
from  me.      As    I   wiped    my  forehead    on    finishing   my 
paper,  a  large  black  dog  came  in,  caressed  his  master,  and 
made  a  merciful  diversion,  and  as  my  agitation  gradually 
subsided   I  was  able  to  talk  with   Dr.  Brewster  and  was 
afterwards  introduced  to  his  lady,  who  put  me  soon  at  my 
ease,  and  to'     me  I  was  to  be  introduced  to  Sir  Walter 
Scott   on   Monday  next  at  the   Royal   Academy.      Poor 
me !  —  far  from    Sir  Walter  I    could    talk  to    him ;   hun- 
dreds of  times    have    I  spoken   to    him  quite    loudly   in 
the  woods,  as  I  looked  on  the  silvery  streamlets,  or  the 
dense    swamps,    or   the    noble    Ohio,    or    on    mountains 
losing  their  peaks  in  gray  mists.     How  many  times  have  I 
longed  for  him  to  come  to  my  beloved  country,  that  he 
might  describe,  as  no  one  else  ever  can,  the  stream,  the 
swamp,  the    river,   the    mountain,  for  the  sake  of  future 
ages.     A  century  hence  they  will  not  be  here   as    I  see 
them.    Nature   will  have   been  robbed  of  many   brilliant 
charms,  the    rivers  will  be  tormented   and  turned  astray 
from  their  primitive  courses,  the  hills  will  be  levelled  with 
the  swamps,  and  perhaps  the  swamps  will  have  become  a 
mound   surmounted   by   a   fortress   of  a  thousand  guns. 
Scarce  a  magnolia  will  Louisiana  possess,  the  timid  Deer 
will  exist  nowhere,  fish  will  no  longer  abound  in  the  rivers, 
the  Eagle  scarce  ever  alight,  and  these  millions  of  lovely 
songsters  be  driven  away  or  slain  by  man.     Without  Sir 
Walter  Scott  these  beauties  must  perish  unknown  to  the 
world.     To  the  great  and  good  man  himself  I  can  never 
say  this,  therefore  he  can  never  know  it,  or  my  feelings 
towards  him  —  but  if  he  did?    What  have  I  to  say  more 
than  a  world  of  others  who  all  admire  him,  perhaps  are 
better  able  to  do  so,  because   more  enlightened.     Ah! 
Walter  Scott !  when  I  am  presented  to  thee  my  head  will 
droop,  my  heart  will  svi^ell,  my  limbs  will  tremble,  my  lips 


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will  quiver,  my  tongue  congeal ;  nevertheless  I  shall  feel 
elevated  if  I  am  permitted  to  touch  the  hand  to  which  the 
world  owes  so  much. 

December  IJ,  Wednesday.  I  have  spent  the  greater 
portion  of  this  day  in  the  company  of  Mr.  Sclby  the 
ornithologist,  who,  in  appearance  is  well  formed,  and  in 
manners  clever  and  polite,  yet  plain  and  unassuming. 
\Vc  were  together  some  hours  at  the  Institution,  —  he  was 
greatly  pleased  with  my  drawings,  —  and  we  then  dined  at 
Mr.  Lizars'  in  company  with  Dr.  Lizars,  and  we  all  talked 
ornithology.  I  wish  I  possessed  the  scientific  knowledge 
of  the  subject  that  Mr.  Selby  does.  He  wished  to  hear 
my  paper  on  the  "  Buzzard,"  and  after  doing  so,  took  it 
with  him  to  read  to  Sir  Wm.  Jardine,  to  whom  he  goes 
to-morrow,  but  <vill  return  on  Monday.  Later  Dr.  Brewster 
came  to  my  room  with  the  proof  of  the  paper  on  the 
"  Carrion  Crow."  He  read  it,  and  we  both  corrected. 
He  told  me  it  was  a  question  whether  or  no  I  could  be 
made  a  member  of  the  Royal  Academy,  for  only  t/iirty 
foreigners  were  allowed  by  law,  and  the  number  was 
already  complete ;  still  he  hoped  an  exception  would  be 
made  in  my  case.  He  thanked  me  very  cordially  for  my 
paper,  and  said  Sir  Walter  Scott  wished  to  meet  me,  and 
would  do  so  on  Monday  at  the  Royal  Academy.  Mr. 
Bridges  gave  me  a  very  fine  notice  in  the  Scotsman,  and 
has  again  invited  me  to  dine  with  him  to  meet  some 
distinguished  Germans,  and  before  that  I  must  call  at 
Lord  Clancarty's  to  see  Mrs.  Murray. 

Thursday,  December  i^.  I  paid  my  visit  to  Mrs.  Murray 
this  forenoon,  but  the  lady  was  out ;  so  I  handed  my  card 
to  the  slender  youth  who  had  opened  the  door  and  who 
stood  before  me  looking  at  my  hair  like  an  ass  at  a  fine 
thistle,  and  then  made  off  quickly  to  Dr.  Brewster.  My 
business  was  before  him  in  an  instant ;  I  wished  not  to  be 
introduced  to  Sir  Walter  in  a  crowd,  and  he  promised  me 
not  to  do  so.     Much  relieved  I  went  to  the  University  to 


<  ■;, ;  ^-  •T"^— 


184 


AUDUBON 


see  Dr.  Andrew  Brown,  Professor  of  Rhetoric.  I  found 
him  a  very  polished  man,  and  after  some  conversation  he 
asked  me  to  write  him  a  paper  on  the  manners  and  cus- 
toms of  Indians.  But  I  must  promise  less  writing  of  this 
kinc',  for  I  am  too  busy  otherwise ;  however,  immediately 
on  my  return  home  I  sat  down  to  write  a  long  list  of  mem- 
oranda for  a  journey  in  America  which  I  had  promised  Cap- 
tain Basil  Hall,  and  I  wrote  till  my  head  ached.  Mr.  Daniel 
Lizars  has  invited  me  to  dine  with  him  on  Friday  at  three, 
and  has  procured  two  cats,  Vvhich  he  wishes  me  to  paint. 
Now  this  suits  me  to  a  "  T  "  —  a  long  morning's  work, 
a  short  meal,  and  some  hours  more  of  work ;  very  different 
from  to-day,  for  it  was  five  minutes  of  seven  when  I  reached 
Captain  Hall's.  We  dined  delightfully  with  just  the  com- 
pany he  had  promised  me,  and  I  was  not  compelled  to 
ask  any  one  to  take  wine  with  me,  a  thing  in  my  opinion 
detestable  quite,  a  foppish  art  I  cannot  bear.  I  wish 
everybody  was  permitted  to  drink  when  he  is  thirsty,  or  at 
least  only  when  he  likes,  and  not  when  he  dislikes  it. 
The  ladies  having  left  us,  the  map  of  my  native  land  was 
put  on  the  table ;  I  read  my  notes,  the  Captain  followed 
the  course  with  his  pencil  from  New  York  to  New  Orleans, 
visiting  besides  Niagara,  St.  Louis,  and  a  hundred  other 
places.  We  talked  of  nothing  but  his  journey  in  my  dear 
country,  and  Mrs.  Hall  is  delighted  -it  the  prospect.  The 
Captain  wishes  to  write  a  book,  and  he  spoke  of  it  with  as 
little  concern  as  I  should  say,  "  I  will  draw  a  duck ;  "  is  it 
not  surprising?  He  said  to  me,  "  Why  do  not  you  write 
a  little  book  telling  what  you  have  seen  ?  "  1  .^mot  write 
at  all,  but  if  I  could  how  could  I  make  a  Uitle  book,  .vhen 
I  have  seen  enough  to  make  a  dozen  large  books?  I  will 
not  write  at  all. 

Friday,  December  15.  I  have  just  returned  from  the  the- 
atre, where  I  saw  for  the  first  time  "  The  Beggars'  Opera " 
and  "  The  Lord  of  the  Manor."  They  were  both  badly 
represented,  most  certainly.     Only  one  lady  could  sing,  or 


!< 


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185 


■t:     '. 


act  her  part  at  all  well.  It  was  most  truly  a  Beggars' 
Opera;  I  went  with  Mr.  Daniel  Lizars  and  his  wife  and 
brother-in-law.  They  were  all  desirous  to  see  a  certain 
Mr.  St.  Clair  perform ;  but  I  truly  think  that  the  gentle- 
man in  question  had  drank  too  much  brandy  this  day,  or 
was  it  of  the  smoky  whiskey  which  these  Scots  relish  ?  I 
did  little  work  this  day,  but  walked  much  to  refresh  myself 
after  all  the  hard  work  and  constant  writing  I  have  lately 
done.  The  weather  was  most  inviting,  and  as  pleasant 
as  Louisiana  at  this  season.  Upwards  of  two  hundred 
people  were  at  my  exhibition,  and  to-morrow  it  closes. 
Baron  Stokoe  called  whilst  I  was  absent  and  left  word  he 
wished  to  see  me,  that  he  had  heard  from  a  friend  of  mine, 
whom  I  suppose  to  be  Charles  Bonaparte.  Baron  Stokoe 
was  formerly  a  physician  of  eminence  in  the  British 
service;  when  Dr.  O'Meara  was  taken  away  from  St. 
Helena,  where  he  was  physician  to  Napoleon,  this  gentle- 
man was  put  in  his  place,  but  did  not  suit  the  peculiar 
ideas  of  his  barbarous  governor,  and  was  also  dismissed, 
not  only  from  the  island,  but  from  the  service,  with  a 
trifling  pension.  He  had  become  acceptable  to  Napoleon 
even  in  the  short  time  they  were  together,  and  when  he 
returned  from  that  lonely  rock  was  employed  by  Joseph 
Bonaparte  to  attend  his  daughters  from  Rome  to  Phila- 
delphia. I  met  him  with  Charles  Bonaparte  during  his 
stay  in  America.  So  pleased  was  Joseph  Bonaparte  with 
his  conduct  that  he  is  now  one  of  his  pensionnaires,  and 
his  general  agent  in  Europe. 

Saturday,  December  16.  I  have  really  done  much  to- 
day. At  halfrpast  nine  I  faced  the  inclement  weather, 
crossed  the  bridge,  passed  the  college  regretting  such  a 
curious  and  valuable  monument  was  quite  buried  among  the 
antiquated,  narrow  streets,  and  dismal  houses  that  surround 

It,  then  rang  the  bell,  and  was   admitted  to  Baron  S 's 

parlor.     He  was  still  snug  asleep ;   so  that  I  had  enjoyed 
four  and  a  half  hours  of  life  while  he  slept.     He  saw  me 


\       ':■ 


m'c 


1 86 


AUDUBON 


'H    Si 


at  once  in  his  bedroom  and  told  me  that  if  I  wrote  to 
the  Prince  of  Musignano  at  London  this  morning,  the  let- 
ter would  probably  reach  him.     I  returned  home,  wrote 
my  letter,  or   rather   began   it,  when  I  received   several 
pages  from  my  good   friend  Mr.  Rathbone  which  quite 
depressed  me.     He  feared  my  work  would  not  succeed 
on  account  of  the  unusual  size ;  and  Mrs.  Rathbone,  Senior, 
refused  me  the  pleasure  of  naming  a  bird  after  her,  on 
account  of  the  publicity,  she  said ;  yet  I  longed  to  do  so, 
for  what  greater  compliment  could  I  pay  any  lady  than 
to  give  her  name  to  one  of  the  most  exquisite  creations 
of  the  Almighty?     The  whole  made  me  most  dismal,  but 
yet  not  in  the  least  discouraged  or  disheartened  about  my 
work.     If  Napoleon  by  perseverance  and  energy  rose  from 
the  ranks  to  be  an  emperor,  why  should  not  Audubon  with 
perseverance  and  energy  be  able  to  leave  the  woods  of 
America  for  a  time  and  publish  and  sell  a  book?  —  always 
supposing  that  Audubon  has  some  knowledge  of  his  work, 
as  Napoleon  had  great  knowledge  of  his.     No,  no,  I  shall 
not  cease  to  work  for  this  end  till  old  age  incapacitates  me. 
I  thought  long  over  Mr.  Rathbone's  lettef,  then  finished 
mine  to  Charles  and  put  it  in  the  post-of^ce.     I  then  pur- 
chased a  Pigeon,  killed  it,  packed  up  my  wires  and  hammer, 
and  at  one  o'clock  took  these  things  with   my  "  position 
board,"  called  a  coach,  and  went  to  the  meeting  of  the  Wer- 
nerian  Society  at  the  University.    Lady  ]\!orton  had  joined 
me,  hence  my  need  for  the  coach.     Mr.  Skene  met  me  at 
the  door,  where  I  parted  from  Lady  Morton,  who  made  me 
promise  to  visit  her  at  Dalmahoy.     She  is  a  small,  hand- 
some woman,  who   speaks  most  excellent  French.    Mr. 
Lizars  joined  me,  and  we  all  entered  the  room  of  the  Wcr- 
nerian  Society  of  Edinburgh  !     The  room  is  a  plain  one; 
two  tables,  one  fireplace,  many  long  benches  or  seats,  and  a 
chair  for  the  president  were  all  the  furniture  I  saw,  except 
a  stufTed  sword-fish,  which  lay  on  one  of  the  tables  for  ex- 
amination that  day.     Many  persons  were  already  present, 


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187 


and  I  unrolled  the  drawing  of  the  Buzzard  for  them  to  see. 
Professor  Jameson  came  in,  and  the  meeting  began.  My 
paper  on  the  Buzzard  was  the  first  thing,  read  by  Patrick 
Neill,  — not  very  well,  as  my  writing  was  not  easy  reading 
for  him.  Professor  Jameson  then  rose,  and  gave  quite  a 
eulogy  upon  it,  my  works,  and  lastly  —  myself.  I  then  had 
the  thanks  of  the  society,  and  showed  them  my  manner  of 
putting  up  my  specimens  for  drawing  birds,  etc. ;  this  they 
thought  uncommonly  ingenious.  Professor  Jameson  then 
offered  me  as  an  honorary  member,  when  arose  a  great 
clapping  of  hands  and  stamping  of  feet,  as  a  mark  of  ap- 
probation. Then  Professor  Jameson  desired  that  the  usual 
law  requiring  a  delay  of  some  months  between  the  nomina- 
tion and  the  election  be  laid  aside  on  this  occasion ;  and 
again  the  same  acclamations  took  place,  and  it  was  decided 
I  should  be  elected  at  the  next  meeting;  after  which  the 
meeting  was  ended,  I  having  promised  to  read  a  paper  on 
the  habits  of  the  Alligator  at  the  following  assembly  of 
the  society.     Then  came  my  dinner  at  Lady  Hunter's. 

At  precisely  six  I  found  myself  at  No.  16  Hope  St 
I  was  shown  upstairs,  and  presented  to  Lady  Mary  Clark, 
who  knew  both  General  Wolfe  and  General  Montgomery, 
a  most  amiable  English  lady  eighty-two  years  of  age. 
Many  other  interesting  people  were  present,  and  I  had  the 
pleasure  of  taking  Mrs.  Basil  Hall  to  dinner,  and  was 
seated  next  her  mother.  Lady  Hunter,  and  almost  opposite 
Lady  Mary  Clark.  I  did  not  feel  so  uncomfortable  as 
usual;  all  were  so  kind,  affable,  and  /r«/y  well-bred.  At 
nine  the  ladies  left  us,  and  Captain  Basil  Hall  again 
attacked  me  about  America,  and  hundreds  of  questions 
were  put  to  me  by  all,  which  I  answered  as  plainly  and 
briefly  as  I  could. 

At  eleven  we  joined  the  ladies,  and  tea  and  coffee  were 
handed  round ;  other  guests  had  come  in,  card-tables  were 
prepared,  and  we  had  some  music.  Portfolios  of  prints 
were  ready  for  those  interested  in  them.     I  sat  watching 


31' 


}   ' ;» ^ 


m 


1 88 


AUDUBON 


all,  but  listening  to  Mrs.  Hall's  sweet  music.  This  bustle 
does  not  suit  me,  I  am  not  fitted  for  it,  I  prefer  more  sol- 
itude in  the  woods.  I  left  at  last  with  young  Gregg,  but 
I  was  the  first  to  go,  and  we  stepped  out  into  the  rainy 
Sunday  morning,  for  it  was  long,  long  past  midnight,  and 
I  hastened  to  my  lodgings  to  commit  murder,  —  yes,  to 
commit  murder;  for  the  cats  Mr.  Daniel  Lizars  wished  me 
to  paint  had  been  sent,  and  good  Mrs.  Dickie  much  objected 
to  them  in  my  rooms ;  her  son  helped  me,  and  in  two  min- 
utes the  poor  animals  were  painlessly  killed.  I  at  once 
put  them  up  in  fighting  attitude,  ready  for  painting  when 
daylight  appeared,  which  would  not  be  long.  Good-night, 
or  good-morning;   it  is  now  nearly  three  o'clock. 

Sunday,  December  17.  I  painted  all  day,  that  is,  during 
all  the  time  I  could  see,  and  I  was  up  at  six  this  morning 
writing  by  candle-light,  which  I  was  compelled  to  use  till 
nearly  nine.  Mr.  Bridges  called,  and  I  dined  at  home  on 
fried  oysters  and  stewed  Scotch  herrings,  then  went  to 
Mr.  Lizars*, where  I  nearly  fell  asleep;  but  a  cup  of  coffee 
thoroughly  awakened  me,  and  I  looked  at  some  drawings 
of  birds,  which  I  thought  miserable,  by  Mr.  Pelletier.  Mr. 
Lizars  walked  home  with  me  to  see  my  cats. 

Monday^  December  18.  My  painting  of  two  cats  fight- 
ing like  two  devils  over  a  dead  Squirrel  was  finished  at 
three  o'clock.  I  had  been  ten  hours  at  it,  but  should  not 
call  it  by  the  dignified  title  of  "  painting,"  for  it  is  too  rap- 
idly done  for  the  more  finished  work  I  prefer ;  but  I  can- 
not give  more  time  to  it  now,  and  the  drawing  is  good.  I 
dressed,  and  took  the  painting —  so  I  continue  to  call  it  — 
to  Mrs.  Lizars',  who  wished  to  see  it,  and  it  had  rained  so 
hard  all  day  she  had  not  been  able  to  come  to  my  rooms. 
At  five  I  dined  with  George  Combe,  the  conversation 
chiefly  phrenology.  George  Combe  is  a  delightful  host, 
and  had  gathered  a  most  agreeable  company.  At  seven 
Mr.  Lizars  called  for  me,  and  we  went  to  the  meeting  of 
the  Royal  Academy.     Two  of  my  plates  were  laid  on  the 


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189 


table.  Dr.  Brewster  and  Mr.  Allan  wished  the  Academy 
to  subscribe  for  my  work,  and  the  committee  retired  to 
act  on  this  and  other  business.  The  meeting  was  very 
numerous  and  no  doubt  very  learned ;  Sir  William  Jardine 
and  Mr.  Selby  arrived  a  little  before  the  society  was 
seated.  The  door  of  the  hall  was  thrown  open  and  we  all 
marched  in  and  seated  ourselves  on  most  slippery  hair- 
cloth seats.  The  room  is  rich  and  beautiful ;  it  is  a  large 
oblong,  the  walls  covered  with  brilliant  scarlet  paper  in 
imitation  of  morocco.  The  ceiling  is  painted  to  represent 
oak  panels.  The  windows  are  immensely  large,  framed  to 
correspond  with  the  ceiling,  and  with  green  jalousies  ;  large 
chandeliers,  with  gas,  light  every  corner  brilliantly.  The 
president  sat  in  a  large  arm-chair  lined  with  red  morocco, 
and  after  the  minutes  of  the  last  meeting  had  been  read, 

Professor gave  us  a  long,  tedious,  and  labored  lecture 

on  the  origin  of  languages,  their  formation,  etc.  It  seemed 
a  very  poor  mess  to  me,  though  that  was  probably  be- 
cause I  did  not  understand  it.  My  friend  Ord  would  have 
doubtless  swallowed  it  whole,  but  I  could  make  neither 
head  nor  tail  of  it.  A  few  fossil  bones  were  then  ex- 
hibited, and  then,  thank  heaven  !  it  was  over.  Sir  William 
Jardine  brought  some  birds  with  him  from  Jardine  Hall, 
and  to-morrow  will  see  my  style  of  posing  them  for  paint- 
ing. As  I  had  promised  to  go  to  supper  with  Dr.  Russell, 
I  left  soon  after  ten,  without  knowing  what  decision  the 
committee  had  reached  as  to  subscribing  to  my  work.  I 
met  several  of  the  Academicians  at  Dr.  Russell's,  as  well 
as  others  whom  I  knew ;  but  I  am  more  and  more  sur- 
prised to  find  how  little  these  men,  learned  as  they  are, 
know  of  America  beyond  the  situation  of  her  principal 
cities.  We  sat  down  to  supper  at  eleven,  —  everything 
magnificent ;  but  I  was  greatly  fatigued,  for  I  had  been  at 
work  since  before  five  this  morning,  either  painting  or 
writing  or  thinking  hard.  We  left  the  table  about  one,  and 
I  was  glad  to  come  home  and  shall  now  soon  be  asleep. 


I90 


A  UDUBON 


Tuesday,  December  19.     My  writing  takes  me  full   two 
hours  every  morning,  and  soon  as  finished  to-day,  I  dressed 
to  go  to  breakfast  with  Sir  William  Jardine  and  Mr.  Selby 
at  Barry's  Hotel.     It  was  just  nine,  the  morning  fine  •  nd 
beautiful,  the  sun  just  above  the  line  of  the  Old  Town,  the 
horizon  like  burnished  gold,  the  walls  of  the  Castle  white 
in  the  light  and  almost  black  in  the  shade.     All  this  made 
a  beautiful  scene,  and  I  dwelt  on  the  power  of  the  great 
Creator  who  formed  all,  with  a  thought  of  all   man  had 
done  and  was  doing,  when  a  child,  barefooted,  ragged,  and 
apparently  on  the  verge  of  starvation,  altered  my  whole 
train  of  ideas.     The  poor  child  complained  of  want,  and, 
had  I  dared,  I  would  have  taken  him  to  Sir  William  Jar- 
dine,  and  given  him  breakfast  at  the  hotel ;  but  the  world 
is  so  strange  I  feared  this  might  appear  odd,  so  I  gave  the 
lad  a  shilling,  and  then  bid  him  return  with  me  to  my 
lodgings.     I   looked  over  all  my  garments,  gave  him  a 
large  bundle  of  all  that  were  at  all  worn,  added  five  shil- 
lings, and  went  my  way  feeling  as  if  God  smiled  on  me 
through  the  face  of  the  poor  boy.     The  hotel  was  soon 
reached,  and  I  was  with  my  friends;   they  had  brought 
Ducks,  Hawks,  and  small  birds   for   me  to  draw.     After 
breakfast  we  all  went  to  my  room,  and  I  showed  these 
gentlemen  how  I  set  up  my  specimens,  squared  my  paper, 
and  soon  had   them   both  at  work   drawing   a  Squirrel. 
They  called  this  a  lesson.     It  was  to  me  like  a  dream,  that 
I,  merely  a  woodsman,  should  teach  men  so  much  my 
superiors.     They  worked  very  well  indeed,  although  I  per- 
ceived at  once  that  Mr.  Selby  was  more  enthusiastic,  and 
therefore  worked  faster  than  Sir  William ;  but  he  finished 
more  closely,  so  that  it  was  hard  to  give  either  the  su- 
premacy.     They  were  delighted,   especially   Mr.  Selby, 
who  exclaimed,  "  I  will  paint  all  our  quadrupeds  for  my 
own  house."     They  both  remained  with  me  till  we  couW 
see  no  more.     At  their  request  I  read  them  my  letter  on 
the  "  Carrion  Crow ; "  but  Dr.  Brewster  had  altered  it  so 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


191 


much  that  I  was  quite  shocked  at  it,  it  made  me  quite  sick. 
He  had,  beyond  question,  greatly  improved  the  style  (for 
I  have  none),  but  he  had  destroyed  the  matter. 

I  dined  at  Major  Dodd's  with  a  complete  set  of  military 
gentry,  generals,  colonels,  captains,  majors,  and,  to  my 
surprise,  young  Pattison,  my  companion  in  the  coach  from 
Manchester;  he  was  Mrs.  Dodd's  cousin.  I  retired  rather 
early,  for  I  did  not  care  for  the  blustering  talk  of  all  these 
warriors.  Sir  William  Jardine  and  Mr.  Lizars  came  to  my 
lodgings  and  announced  that  I  was  elected  by  universal 
acclamation  a  member  of  the  Society  of  Arts  of  the  city 
of  Edinburgh. 

Wednesday,  December  20.  Phrenology  was  the  order  of 
the  morning.  I  was  at  Brown  Square,  at  the  house  of 
George  Combe  by  nine  o'clock,  and  breakfasted  most 
heartily  on  mutton,  ham,  and  good  coffee,  after  which  we 
walked  upstairs  to  his  sanctum  sanctorum.  A  beautiful 
silver  box  containing  the  instruments  for  measuring  the 
cranium,  was  now  opened,  —  the  box  and  contents  were  a 
present  from  the  ladies  who  have  attended  Mr.  Combe's 
lectures  during  the  past  two  years,  —  and  I  was  seated  front- 
ing the  light.  Dr.  Combe  acted  as  secretary  and  George 
Combe,  thrusting  his  fingers  under  my  hair,  began  search- 
ing for  miraculous  bumps.  My  skull  was  measured  as 
minutely  and  accurately  as  I  measure  the  bill  or  legs  of 
a  new  bird,  and  all  was  duly  noted  by  the  scribe.  Then 
with  most  exquisite  touch  each  protuberance  was  found 
as  numbered  by  phrenologists,  and  also  put  down  accord- 
ing to  the  respective  size.  I  was  astounded  when  they 
both  gave  me  the  results  of  their  labors  in  writing,  and 
agreed  in  saying  I  was  a  strong  and  constant  lover,  an 
affectionate  father,  had  great  veneration  for  talent,  would 
have  made  a  brave  general,  that  music  did  not  equal 
painting  in  my  estimation,  that  I  was  generous,  quick- 
tempered, forgiving,  and  much  else  which  I  know  to  be 
true,  though  how  they  discovered  these   facts  is  quite  a 


!■  I 


ft 


192 


ilDUBON 


I 


puzzle  to  me.  They  asked  my  permission  to  read  the 
notes  at  their  next  meeting,  to  which  I  consented.  I  then 
went  to  court  to  meet  Mr.  Simpson  the  advocate,  who  was 
to  introduce  me  to  Francis  Jeffrey.  I  found  Mr,  Simpson 
and  a  hundred  others  in  thfeir  raven  gowns,  and  powdc!-cd, 
curled  wigs,  but  Mr.  Jeffrey  was  not  there.  After  doing 
many  things  and  writing  much,  I  went  this  evening  to  Mr. 
Lizars',  and  with  him  to  Dr.  Greville,  the  botanist.^  He 
rarely  leaves  his  house  in  winter  and  suffers  much  from 
asthma;  I  found  him  wearing  a  green  silk  night-cap,  and 
we  sat  and  talked  of  plants  till  2  A.  M.  When  I  entered 
my  rooms  I  found  Mr.  Selby  had  sent  me  three  most 
beautiful  Pheasants,  and  to-morrow  I  begin  a  painting  of 
these  birds  attacked  by  a  Fox  for  the  Exhibition  in  Lon- 
don next  March.  Also  I  had  a  note  from  the  Earl  of 
Morton  to  spend  a  day  and  night  at  his  home  at  Dalnia- 
hoy,  saying  he  would  send  his  carriage  for  me  next 
Wednesday,  one  week  hence. 

Thursday,  December  21.  To-day  I  received  letters  from 
De  Witt  Clinton  and  Thomas  Sully  in  answer  to  mine  in 
forty-two  days ;  it  seems  absolutely  impossible  the  distance 
should  have  been  covered  so  rapidly;  yet  it  is  so,  as  I 
see  by  my  memorandum  book.  I  have  written  already 
in  reply  to  Thomas  Sully,  promising  him  a  copy  of  my 
first  number  when  finished,  say  a  month  hence,  with  the 
request  that  he  forward  it,  in  my  name,  to  that  Institution 
which  thought  me  unworthy  to  be  a  member.  There  is 
no  malice  in  my  heart,  and  I  wish  no  return  or  acknowl- 
edgment from  thera.  I  am  now  determined  never  to  be 
a  member  of  that  Philadelphia  Society,  but  I  still  think 
talents,  no  matter  how  humble,  should  be  fostered  in  one's 
own  country.  The  weather  is  clear,  with  a  sharp  frost. 
What  a  number  of  Wild  Ducks  could  I  shoot  on  a  morning 
like  this,  with  a  little  powder  and  plenty  of  shot ;  but  I  had 

^  Robert  Kaye  Greville,  authcr  of  "Plants  of  Edinburgh"  and  other 
botanical  works,  1 794-1 866. 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


193 


other  fish  to  fry.    I  put  up  a  beautiful  male  Pheasant,  and 
outlined   it  on  coarse  gray  paper  to  pounce  it  in   proper 
position  on  my  canvas.     Sir  Wm.  Jardine  and  Mr.  Selby 
were  here  drawing  under  my  direction  most  of  the  day. 
My  time    is   so   taken    up,    and   daylight   so   short,  that 
though  four  hours  is  all  I  allow  for  sleep,  I  am  behind- 
hand, and  have  engaged  an  amanuensis.    I  go  out  so  much 
that  I  frequently  dress  three  times  a  day,  the  greatest  bore 
in  the  world  to  me  ;  why  I  cannot  dine  in  my  blue  coat  as 
well  as  a  black  one,  I  cannot  say,  but  so  it  seems.     Mrs. 
Lizars  came  with  a  friend,  Mr.  Simpson,  to  invite  me  to  a 
phrenological  supper,  Dr.  Charles  Fox,  looking  very  ill, 
and  two  friends  of  Mr.  Selby ;  the  whole  morning  passed 
away,  no  canvas  came  for  me,  and  I  could  not  have  left  my 
guests  to  work,  if  it  had.     I  looked  often  at  the  beautiful 
Pheasant,  with  longing  eyes,  but  when  the  canvas  came  and 
my  guests  had  gone,  daylight   went  with  them,  so  I  had 
lost  a  most  precious  day ;   that  is  a  vast  deal  in  a  man's 
life-glass.     The  supper  was  really  a  phrenological  party; 
my  head  and  Mr.  Selby's  were  compared,  and  at  twelve 
o'clock  he  and  I  went  home  together.      I  was  glad  to  feel 
the  frosty  air  and  to  see  the  stars.     I  think  Mr.  Selby  one 
of  those  rare  men  that  are  seldom  met   with,  and   when 
one  is  found  it  proves  how  good  some  of  our  species  may 
be.    Never  before  did  I  so  long  for  a  glimpse  of  our  rich 
magnolia  woods ;  I  never  before  felt  the  want  of  a  glance 
at  our  forests  as  I  do  now ;  could  I  be  there  but  a  moment, 
hear  the  mellow   Mock-bird,   or  the  Wood-thrush,  to   me 
ahvays  so  pleasing,  how  happy  should  I  be ;  but  alas !  I 
am  far  from  those  scenes.     I  seem,  in  a  measure,  to  have 
gone  back  to  my  early  days  of  society  and  fine  dressing, 
silk  stockings  and  pumps,  and  all  the  finery  with  which  I 
made  a  popinjay  of  myself  in  my  youth. 

December  22 ^  Friday.  I  painted  a  good  portion  to-day 
though  it  was  quite  dark  by  three  of  the  afternoon ;  how 
I  long  for  the  fair  days  of  summer.     My  room  to-day  was 

VOL.  I.  — 13 


.'  -i 


•f  \      \ 


i  m 


194 


AUDUBON 


a  perfect  levee  ;  it  is  Mr.  Audubon  here,  and  Mr.  Audubon 
there ;  I  only  hope  they  will  not  make  a  conceited  fool 
of  Mr.  Audubon  at  last.  I  received  every  one  as  politely 
as  I  could,  palette  and  brushes  in  hand,  and  conducted 
each  in  his  turn  to  the  door.  I  was  called  from  my  work 
twenty-five  times,  but  I  was  nevertheless  glad  to  see  one 
and  all.  I  supped  with  Sir  William  Jardine,  Mr.  Lizars, 
and  Mr.  Moule,  Sir  William's  uncle,  at  Barry's  Hotel; 
we  talked  much  of  fish  and  fishing,  for  we  were  all  sports- 
men. I  left  at  midnight  and  found  at  my  room  a  long 
letter  from  Charles  Bonaparte. 

Saturday,  December  23.  I  had  to  grind  up  my  own 
colors  this  morning;  I  detest  it,  it  makes  me  hot,  fretful, 
moody,  and  I  am  convinced  has  a  bad  effect  on  my  mind. 
However,  I  worked  closely,  but  the  day  was  shockingly 
short;  I  cannot  see  before  half-past  nine,  and  am  forced 
to  stop  at  three.  .  .  . 

The  24th  and  25th  I  remained  closely  at  my  work 
painting;  on  the  24th  my  drawings  were  all  taken  down 
and  my  paintings  also.  I  wrote  to  the  president  of  the 
Royal  Institution  and  presented  that  society  with  my 
large  painting  of  the  "  Wild  Turkeys."  I  should  have 
hesitated  about  offering  it  had  I  not  been  assured  it  had 
some  value,  as  Gaily,  the  picture  dealer,  offered  me  a 
hundred  guineas  for  it  the  previous  day;  and  I  was  glad 
to  return  some  acknowledgment  of  the  politeness  of  the 
Institution  in  a  handsome  manner.  My  steady  work 
brought  on  a  bad  headache,  but  I  rose  early,  took  a  walk 
of  many  miles,  and  it  has  gone. 

December  26.  My  steady  painting,  my  many  thoughts, 
and  my  brief  nights,  bring  on  me  now  every  evening 
a  weariness  that  I  cannot  surmount  on  command.  This 
is,  I  think,  the  first  time  in  my  life  when,  if  needed,  I  could 
not  rouse  myself  from  sleepiness,  shake  myself  and  be 
ready  for  action  in  an  instant;  but  now  I  cannot  do  that, 
and  I  have  difficulty  often  in  keeping  awake  as  evening 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


195 


comes  on ;  this  evening  I  had  to  excuse  myself  from 
a  gathering  at  Lady  Hunter's,  and  came  home  intending 
to  go  at  once  to  bed;  but  I  lay  down  on  my  sofa  for 
a  moment,  fell  asleep,  and  did  not  wake  till  after  midnight, 
when  I  found  myself  both  cold  and  hungry.  I  have  taken 
some  food  and  now  will  rest,  though  no  longer  sleepy, 
for  to-morrow  I  go  to  Earl  Morton's,  where  I  wish,  at 
least,  to  keep  awake. 

Dahnahoy,  eight  miles  from  Edinburgh,  December  27^ 
Wednesday.  I  am  now  seated  at  a  little  table  i-  the 
Yellow  Bedchamber  at  Earl  Morton's,  and  will  give  an 
account  of  my  day.  After  my  breakfast,  not  anxious  to 
begin  another  Pheasant,  I  did  some  writing  and  paid  some 
visits,  returned  to  my  lodgings  and  packed  a  box  for 
America  with  various  gifts,  some  mementos  I  had  received, 
and  several  newspapers,  when  Lord  Morton's  carriage  was 
announced.  My  porte-feuille  and  valise  were  carried 
down,  and  I  followed  them  and  entered  a  large  carriage 
lined  with  purple  morocco ;  never  was  I  in  so  comfortable 
a  conveyance  before;  the  ship  that  under  easy  sail  glides 
slowly  on  an  even  sea  has  a  more  fatiguing  motion ;  I 
might  have  been  in  a  swinging  hammock.  We  passed 
the  castle,  through  Charlotte  Square,  and  out  on  the 
Glasgow  road  for  eight  miles,  all  so  swiftly  that  my 
watch  had  barely  changed  the  time  from  one  hour  to 
another  when  the  porter  pushed  open  the  gate  of  Dal- 
mahoy.  I  now  began  to  think  of  my  meeting  with  the 
man  who  had  been  great  Chamberlain  to  the  late  Queen 
Charlotte.  I  did  not  so  much  mind  meeting  the  Countess, 
for  I  had  become  assured  of  her  sweetness  of  disposition 
when  we  had  met  on  previous  occasions,  but  the  Cham- 
berlain I  could  not  help  dreading  to  encounter.  This, 
however,  did  not  prevent  the  carriage  from  proceeding 
smoothly  round  a  great  circle,  neither  did  it  prevent 
me  from  seeing  a  large,  square,  half  Gothic  building  with 
two  turrets,  ornamented  with  great  lions,  and  all  the  signs 


11 


196 


AUDUBON 


of  heraldry  belonging  to  Lord  Morton.  The  carriage 
stopped,  a  man  in  livery  opened  the  door,  and  I  walked 
in,  giving  him  my  hat  and  gloves  and  my  American  stick 
(that,  by  the  bye,  never  leaves  me  unless  I  leave  it).  Up- 
stairs I  went  and  into  the  drawing-room.  The  Countess 
rose  at  once  and  came  to  greet  me,  and  then  presented 
Lord  Morton  to  me  —  yes,  really  not  me  to  him ;  for 
the  moment  I  was  taken  aback,  I  had  expected  something 
so  different.  I  had  formed  an  idea  that  the  Earl  was 
a  man  of  great  physical  strength  and  size;  instead  I  saw  a 
small,  slender  man,  tottering  on  his  feet,  weaker  than  a  newly 
hatched  Partridge ;  he  welcomed  me  with  tears  in  his 
eyes,  held  one  of  my  hands  and  attempted  speaking,  which 
was  difficult  to  him,  the  Countess  meanwhile  rubbing 
his  other  hand.  I  saw  at  a  glance  his  situation  and 
begged  he  would  be  seated,  after  which  I  was  introduced 
to  the  mother  of  the  Countess,  Lady  Boulcar,  and  I  took 
a  seat  on  a  sofa  that  I  thought  would  swallow  me  up, 
so  much  down  swelled  around  me.  It  was  a  vast  room, 
at  least  sixty  feet  long,  and  wide  in  proportion,  let  me 
say  thirty  feet,  all  hung  with  immense  paintings  on  a  rich 
purple  ground;  all  was  purple  about  me.  The  large 
tables  were  covered  with  books,  instruments,  drawing 
apparatus,  and  a  telescope,  with  hundreds  of  ornaments.' 
As  I  glanced  at  the  pictures  I  could  see  the  Queen  of 
England  fronting  Mary  of  Scotland,  a  chamberlain  here, 
a  duke  there,  and  in  another  place  a  beautiful  head 
by  Rembrandt.  Van  Dyke  had  not  been  forgotten; 
Claude  Lorraine  had  some  landscapes  here  also;  while 
the  celebrated  Titian  gave  a  lustre  to  the  whole.  I  rose 
to  take  a  closer  view,  the  Countess  explaining  all  to  mo, 
but  conceive  my  surprise  when,  looking  from  the  middle 
window,  I  saw  at  the  horizon  the  castle  and  city  of  Edin- 
burgh, a  complete  miniature  eight  miles  off,  a  landscape 
of  fields,  water,  and  country  between  us  and  it.  Luncheon 
was  announced;  I  am  sure  if  my  friends  complain  that 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


197 


I  eat  but  little,  they  must  nllow  that  I  eat  often ;  never 
were  such  lands  for  constant  meals  as  England  and  Scot- 
land.    The  Countess  of  Boulcar  rolled  Lord   Morton   in 
his  castored   chair,  I  gave  my  arm  to  Lady  Morton,  we 
crossed    a   large    antechamber,  into  a  dining-room  quite 
rich  in  paintings,  and  at   present  with  a  sumptuous  re- 
past.    Three  gentlemen,  also  visitors,  entered  by  another 
door,  —  Messrs.  Hays,    Ramsay,  and  a  young  clergyman 
whose  name  I  forget.     After  luncheon  my  drawings  were 
produced,  the   Earl  was  rolled  into  a  good   position  for 
light,  and  my  "  Book  of  Nature  "  was  unbuckled.     I  am 
not  going  to    repeat   praises  again.     The  drawings  seen, 
we  adjourned   to   the    drawing-room   and    the    Countess 
begged  me  to  give  her  a  lesson  to-morrow,  which  I  shall 
most  gladly  do.     The  Countess  is  not  exactly  beautiful, 
but  she  is  good-looking,  with  fine  eyes,  a  brilliant  com- 
plexion, and  a  good  figure;  she  is  a  woman  of  superior 
intellect  and  conversation,  and  I  should  think  about  forty 
years  of  age ;    she  was  dressed  in  a  rich  crimson  gown, 
and  her  mother  in  black  satin.     At  six  I  re-entered  the 
house,  having  taken  a  short  walk  with  the  gentlemen,  and 
was  shown  to  my  room.     "  The  yellow  room,"  I    heard 
the  Countess  say  to  the  lackey  who  showed  me  the  way. 
My  valise   had   been  unpacked,  and    all  was  most  com- 
fortable, and  truly  yellow  in  this  superb  apartment.      The 
bed  was  hung  with   yellow   of  some   rich  material,  and 
ornamented  with  yellow  crowns,  and  was  big  enough  for 
four  of  my  size ;  a  large  sofa  and   large  arm-chairs,  all 
yellow,  the  curtains,  dressing-table,  all  indeed  was  yellow, 
intensified  by  the  glow  of  a  bright  wood  fire.     My  even- 
ing toilet   is  never  a  very  lengthy  matter,  —  for  in   my 
opinion  it  is  a  vile  loss  of  time  to  spend  as  many  minutes 
in  arranging  a   cravat  as  a   hangman  does  in  tying  his 
knot,  —  and  I  was  ready  long  before  seven,  when  I  again 
gave  the  Countess  my  arm,  and  Lord  Morton  was  again 
rolled  in,  in  his  chair.     The  waiters,  I  think  there  were 


%■ 


1^8 


AUDUBON 


wm, 


fouf;  were   powdered   and   dressed    in   deep   red,   almost 
maroon  liveries,  except  the  butler,  who  was  in  black,  and 
who   appeared  to  me  to  hand  fresh  plates  continuously. 
After  a  dinner  of  somewhat  more  than  an  hour,  the  ladies 
retired  with   the   Earl,    and    I    remained   with   the   three 
gentlemen  to  talk  and  drink  wine.     The  conversation  was 
entirely  of  antiquities.     Mr.  Hays  is  a  deeply  learned  and 
interesting  man,  besides  being  quite  an  original.     At  the 
hour   of  ten  we  joined   the    Countess,   the   Earl   having 
retired,  and  I  have  been  much  interested  looking  at  the 
signatures  of  the  kings  of  old,  as  well  as  that  of  Marie, 
Queen  of  Scots,  and  those  of  many  other  celebrated  men 
and  women,  while  two  of  the  gentlemen  were  examining 
a  cabinet   of  antique  coins.     The   Countess   looked  very 
brilliant,  being  attired  in  white  satin  with  a  crimson  turban. 
At  midnight  (coffee  having   been   served  about  eleven), 
the  ladies  bid  us  good-night,  and  we  sat  down  to  talk, 
and  drink,  if  we  wished  to,  Madeira  wine.     What  a  life! 
I   could  not  stand  this  ceremony   daily,    I   long   for  the 
woods ;  but  I  hope  this  life  will  enable  me  to  enjoy  them 
more  than  ever   at   a   future    period,  so   I   must  bear  it 
patiently.     After  a  few  moments  I  left  the  gentlemen,  and 
came  to  my  yellow  room. 

Thursday,  December  28.  Daylight  came  and  I  opened 
all  my  yellow  curtains,  and  explored  my  room  by  daylight; 
and  I  have  forgotten  to  tell  thee  that  the  dressing-room, 
with  its  large  porcelain  tub  and  abundance  of  clear  water, 
opened  from  it,  and  was  warm  v-th  crimson  of  the  color  of 
the  Countess's  turban.  The  chimney-piece  was  decorated 
with  choice  shells,  and  above  it  a  painting  representing 
Queen  Mary  in  her  youth.  The  house  seemed  very  still, 
but  after  dressing  I  decided  to  go  down,  for  the  morning 
was  clear  and  the  air  delightful.  As  I  entered  the  drawing- 
room  I  saw  two  housemaids  busily  cleaning ;  the  younger 
saw  me  first,  and  I  heard  her  say,  "  The  American  gentle- 
man is  down  already,"  when  they  both  vanished.     I  went 


i  i 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


199 


out  to  look  about  the  grounds,  and  in  about  an  hour  was 
oined  by  the  young  clergyman,  and  a  walk  was  immedi- 
ately undertaken.  The  Hares  started  before  our  dogs,  and 
passing  through  various  woods,  we  came  by  a  turn  to  the 
stables,  where  I  saw  four  superbly  formed  Abyssinian 
horses,  with  tails  reaching  to  the  earth,  and  the  legs  of  one 
no  larger  than  those  of  an  Elk.  The  riding-room  was  yet 
lighted,  and  the  animals  had  been  exercised  that  morning. 
The  game-keeper  was  unkennelling  his  dogs ;  he  showed 
me  a  large  tame  Fox. 

Then  through  other  woods  we  proceeded  to  the  Manor, 
now  the  habitat  of  the  great  falconer  John  Anderson  and 
his  Hawks.     He  had  already  received  orders  to  come  to 
the  Hall  at  eleven  to  show  me  these  birds  in  their  full 
dress.     We  visited  next  the  hot-houses,  where  roses  were 
blooming  most  sweetly,  and  then  following  a  brook  reached 
the  Hall  about  ten.     The  ladies  were  in  the  drawing-room, 
and  the  Earl  came  in,  when  we  went  to  breakfast.    Neither 
at  this  meal  nor  at  luncheon  are  seen  any  waiters.     The 
meal  over,  all  was  bustle   in  the  drawing-room ;   chalks, 
crayons,  papers,   all  required   was   before    me    in   a   few 
minutes,  and  I  began  to  give  the  Countess  a  most  unneces- 
sary lesson,  for  she  drew  much  better  than  I  did ;  but  I 
taught  her  how  to  rub  with  cork,  and  prepare  for  water- 
color.    The  Earl  sat  by  watching  us,  and  then  asked  to  see 
my  drawings  again.     The  falconer  came,  and  I  saw  the 
Falcons  ready  for  the  chase.     He  held  the  birds  on  his 
gloved  hands,  with  bells  and  hoods  and  crests  ;  but  the 
morning  was  not  fit  for  a  flight,  so   I   lost  that  pleasure. 
The  Countess  asked  for  my  subscription  book  and  wrote 
with  a  steel  pen,  "  The  Countess  of  Morton ;  "  she  wished 
to  pay  for  the  first  number  now,  but  this  I  declined.     She 
promised  me  letters  for  England,  with  which  offer  I  was 
much  pleased.     Desiring  some   fresh  Pheasants    for   my 
work,  she  immediately  ordered  some  killed  for  me.     After 
luncheon  I  walked  out  to  see  a  herd  of  over  a  hundred 


i^m 


200 


AUDUBON 


brown  Deer,  that  like  sheep  were  feeding  within  a  few 
hundred  paces  of  the  Hall.  I  approached  quite  close  to 
them,  and  saw  that  many  had  shed  their  horns;  they 
scampered  off  when  they  sighted  me,  knowing  perhaps 
what  a  hunter  I  was !  Lady  Morton  wished  me  to  remain 
longer,  but  as  I  had  promised  to  dine  with  Captain  Hall  I 
could  not  do  so;  it  was  therefore  decided  that  I  should 
return  next  week  to  spend  another  night  and  give  another 
lesson.  My  ride  to  Edinburgh  was  soon  over,  and  a  letter 
and  a  book  from  Charles  Bonaparte  were  at  my  lodgings. 
Captain  Hall  told  me  at  dinner  that  he  was  a  midshipman 
on  board  the  Leander  when  Pierce  was  killed  off  New 
York,  and  when  I  was  on  my  way  from  France,  when  our 
captain,  seeing  the  British  vessel,  wore  about  round  Long 
Island  and  reached  New  York  by  Hell  Gate.  There  is  a 
curious  notice  about  me  by  Professor  Wilson  in  "  Black- 
wood's Magazine." 

Friday,  December  20.  I  painted  all  day,  and  did  this  most 
happily  and  cheerfully,  for  I  had  received  two  long  letters 
from  my  Lucy,  of  October  14  and  23.  The  evening  was 
spent  with  Captain  Hall,  Mr.  Lizars,  and  his  brother. 

Saturday,  December  30.  So  stormy  a  day  that  I  have 
not  been  disturbed  by  visitors,  nor  have  I  been  out,  but 
painted  all  day. 

Sunday,  December  31.  This  evening  I  dined  at  Captain 
Hall's,  especially  for  the  purpose  of  being  introduced  to 
Francis  Jeffrey,  the  principal  writer  in  the  "  Edinburgh 
Review."  Following  the  advice  given  me  I  did  not  take 
my  watch,  lest  it  should  be  stolen  from  me  on  my  return, 
for  I  am  told  this  is  always  a  turbulent  night  in  Edinburgh. 
Captain  Hall  and  his  wife  received  me  with  their  usual 
cordiality,  and  we  were  soon  joined  by  Mr.  McCuUoch,  a 
writer  on  Political  Economy  and  a  plain,  agreeable  man. 
Then  Francis  Jeffrey  and  his  wife  entered ;  he  is  a  small 
(not  to  say  tiny)  being,  with  a  woman  under  one  arm  and 
a  hat  under  the  other.     He  bowed  very  seriously  indeed, 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


201 


SO  much  so  that  I  conceived  him  to  be  fully  aware  of  his 
weight  in  society.     His  looks  were  shrewd,  but  I  thought 
his  eyes  almost  cunning.     He  talked  a  great  deal  and  very 
well,  yet  I  did  not  like  him ;  but  he  may  prove  better  than 
I  think,  for  this  is  only  my  first  impression.     Mrs.  Jeffrey 
was  nervous  and  very  much  dressed.     If  I  mistake  not 
Jeffrey  was  shy  of  me,  and  I  of  him,  for  he  has  used  me 
very  cavalierly.     When  I  came  I  brought  a  letter  of  intro- 
duction to  him ;  I  called  on  him,  and,  as  he  was  absent,  left 
the  letteV  and  my  card.     When  my  exhibition  opened  I 
enclosed  a  card  of  admittance  to  him,  with  another  of  my 
own  cards.     He  never  came  near  me,  and   I  never  went 
near  him ;  for  if  he  was  Jeffrey,  /  was  Audubon,  and  felt 
quite  independent  of  all  the  tribe  of  Jeffreys  in  England, 
Scotland,  and  Ireland,  put  together.     This  evening,  how- 
ever, he  thanked  me  for  my  card  politely.     At  dinner  he 
sat  opposite  to  me  and  the  conversation  was  on  various 
topics.    America,  however,  was  hardly  alluded  to,  as  when- 
ever Captain  Hall  tried  to   bring  that  country  into  our 
talk,  Mr.  Jeffrey  most  skilfully  brought  up  something  else. 
After  coffee  had  been  served  Mr,  Jeffrey  made  some  in- 
quiries about  my  work,  and  at  ten  I  took  my  leave,  having 
positively  seen  the  little  man  whose  fame  is  so  great  both 
in  Scotland  and  abroad.     I  walked  home  briskly ;  this  was 
the  eve  of  a  New  Year,  and  in  Edinburgh  they  tell  me  it 
is  rather  a  dangerous  thing  to  be  late  in  the  streets,  for 
many  vagabonds  are  abroad  at  this  time,  and  murders  and 
other  fearful  deeds  take  place.     To  prevent  these  as  far  as 
possible,  the  watch  is  doubled,  and  an  unusual  quantity  of 
gas-lif:;hts  arc  afforded.     I  reached  my  room,  sat  down  and 
outlined  a  Pheasant,  to  save  daylight  to-morrow,  and  was 
about  going  to  bed,  when  Mrs.  Dickie  came  in  and  begged 
I  would  wait  till  twelve  o'clock  to  take  some  toddy  with 
her  and   Miss   Campbell,  my  American   boarding   com- 
panion, to  wish  all  a  happy  New  Year.    I  did  so,  of  course, 
and  had  I  sat  up  all  night,  and  written,  or  drawn,  or  sat 


rs'Vf 


202 


AUDUBON 


thinking  by  my  fire,  I  should  have  done  as  well,  for  the 
noise  kept  increasing  in  the  streets,  and  the  confusion  was 
such  that  until  morning  I  never  closed  my  eyes.  At  early 
morning  this  first  day  of  January,  1827,  I  received  from 
Captain  Hall  three  volumes  of  his  voyages,  and  from  the 
Countess  of  Morton  four  beautiful  Pheasants  and  a  basket 
of  rare  hot-house  flowers. 

Edinburgh,  January  1, 1827,  Monday}  A  Happy  New 
Year  to  you,  my  book.  Bless  me  !  how  fair  you  look  this 
very  cold  day.  Which  way,  pray,  are  you  travelling?  Trav- 
elling wherever  chance  or  circumstance  may  lead  you? 
Well,  I  will  take  you  for  my  companion,  and  we  will  talk 
together  on  all  kinds  of  subjects,  and  you  will  help  me  to 
remember,  for  my  memory  is  bad,  very  bad.  I  never  can 
recollect  the  name  of  an  enemy,  for  instance ;  it  is  only  my 
friends  whom  I  can  remember,  and  to  write  down  some- 
what of  their  kind  treatment  of  me  is  a  delight  I  love  to 
enjoy. 

January  6,  Saturday.  Ever  since  the  first  day  of  this 
month  I  have  been  most  closely  engaged  at  my  painting  of 
the  "  Pheasants  Attacked  by  a  Fox."  I  have,  however, 
spent  another  day  and  night  at  Dalmahoy.  I  have  written 
a  long  paper  for  the  Wernerian  Society  on  the  habits  of 
Alligators,  and  am  always  very  weary  at  night. 

January  7.  I  keep  at  my  painting  closely,  and  for  a 
wonder  was  visited  by  Dr.  Bridges.  I  have  labored  hard, 
but  my  work  is  bad  ;  some  inward  feeling  tells  me  when  it 
is  good.  No  one,  I  think,  paints  in  my  method ;  I,  who 
have  never  studied  but  by  piecemeal,  form  my  pictures 
according  to  my  ways  of  study.  For  instance,  I  am  now 
working  on  a  Fox ;  I  take  one  neatly  killed,  put  him  up 
with  wires,  and  when  satisfied  of  the  truth  of  the  position, 
I  take  my  palette  and  work  as  rapidly  as  possible;  the 

1  This  entry  begins  a  new  blank  book,  in  shape  and  size  like  a  ledger, 
every  line  of  which  is  closely  written. 


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203 


same  with  my  birds.  If  practicable,  I  finish  the  bird  at 
one  sitting,  —  often,  it  is  true,  of  fourteen  hours,  —  so  that 
I  think  they  are  correct,  both  in  detail  and  composition. 

Monday,  8th.  I  rose  this  morning  two  and  a  half  hours 
before  day,  and  wrote  much  before  breakfast.  Thanks  to 
my  good  spirit  not  a  soul  called  upon  me  this  day,  and  I 
brushed  away  without  losing  a  moment  of  the  precious 
light  of  these  short  days.  This  evening  I  saw  my  plate  of 
the  Wild  Turkey,  and  went  to  hear  Captain  Basil  Hall  lec- 
ture at  the  Royal  Society  on  the  Trade  Winds.  The  prac- 
tical as  well  as  theoretical  knowledge  of  this  learned  man 
rendered  this  a  most  valuable  evening  to  me.  I  was  intro- 
duced to  Mr.  Perceval,  the  son  of  the  King  of  England's 
Secretary  of  State,^  who  was  shamefully  and  barbarously 
murdered  some  years  since. 

Tuesday,  9th.  Mr.  Hays,  the  Dalmahoy  antiquarian, 
called  on  me,  and  brought  me  a  copy  of  Bewick's  "  Quadru- 
peds." At  eight  this  evening  I  went  to  the  Society  of  Arts, 
of  which  I  have  been  elected  a  member.  Here  I  saw  a 
capital  air-gun,  and  a  steam-carriage  in  full  motion ;  but  / 
had  to  operate,  and  showed  my  manner  of  putting  up  my 
birds  with  wires,  and  I  positively  shook  so  that  I  feared  I 
should  not  be  able  to  proceed  to  the  termination ;  this 
bashfulness  is  dreadful,  how  am  I  ever  to  overcome  it? 

January  10.  The  weather  has  been  most  strange,  at 
times  so  dark  that  I  could  not  see  to  paint,  and  suddenly 
the  sun  shone  so  brightly  that  I  was  dazzled.  It  rained, 
it  blew,  it  snowed ;  we  have  had  all  seasons.  A  Mr.  Bu- 
chanan from  London  came  to  see  my  work,  and  Professor 
Wilson  at  the  same  time;  both  liked  my  painting,  and 
strangely  enough  the  two  had  known  each  other  twenty 
years  ago.  I  went  to  the  theatre  to  see  Miss  Foote  and 
Mr.  Murray ;  both  were  much  applauded,  and  the  house 
was  crowded.     I  am  very  fond  of  the  theat^-c ,  I  think  it 

'  Spencer  Perceval,  bom  1762,  assassinated  in  the  lobby  of  the  House 
of  Commons,  May  II,  1812. 


1PM 


204 


AUDUBON 


the  best  of  all  ways  to  spend  an  evening  for  ddassement 
I  often  find  myself  when  there  laughing  or  crying  like  a 
child. 

January  11.  Scarce  daylight  at  half-past  seven,  but  I 
was  up  and  away  with  a  coal  porter  and  his  cart  into  the 
country.  I  wanted  some  large,  rough  stones  for  my  fore- 
ground ;  this  was  my  reason  for  my  excursion.  I  passed  a 
small,  dirty,  and  almost  lost  building,  where  the  union  be- 
tween Scotland  and  England  was  ratified.  At  one  o'clock 
Professor  Russell  called  in  his  carriage  with  Mr.  Lizars,  then 
we  went  to  see  a  picture  of  the  famous  Hondekoeter.  To 
me  the  picture  was  destitute  of  life ;  the  animals  seemed 
to  me  to  be  drawn  from  poorly  stuffed  specimens,  but  the 
coloring,  the  finish,  the  manner,  the  effect,  was  most  beau- 
tiful, and  but  for  the  lack  of  Nature  in  the  animals  was 
a  picture  which  commanded  admiration  and  attention. 
Would  that  I  could  paint  like  Hondekoeter !  At  eight 
I  went  lO  the  Phrenological  Society,  and  may  safely  say 
that  never  before  was  I  in  such  company ;  the  deepest 
philosophers  in  this  city  of  learning  were  there,  and 
George  Combe  read  an  essay  on  the  mental  powers  of 
man,  as  illustrated  by  phrenological  researches,  that  as- 
tounded me ;  it  lasted  one  and  a  half  hours,  and  will  re- 
main in  my  mind  all  my  life, 

January  12.  My  painting  has  now  arrived  at  the  diffi- 
cult point.  To  finish  highly  without  destroying  the  gen- 
eral effect,  or  to  give  the  general  effect  and  care  not  about 
the  finishing?  I  am  quite  puzzled.  Sometimes  I  like  the 
picture,  then  a  heat  rises  to  my  face  and  I  think  it  a  mis- 
erable daub.  This  is  the  largest  piece  I  have  ever  done; 
as  to  the  birds,  as  far  as  they  are  concerned  I  am  quite  sat- 
isfied, but  the  ground,  the  foliage,  the  sky,  the  distance  are 
dreadful.  To-day  I  was  so  troubled  about  this  that  at  two 
o'clock,  when  yet  a  good  hour  of  daylight  remained,  I  left 
it  in  disgust,  and  walked  off  to  Dr.  Bridges.  I  passed  on 
my  way  the  place  where  a  man  was  murdered  the  night 


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205 


before  last;  a  great  multitude  of  people  were  looking  at 
the  spot,  gazing  like  fools,  for  there  was  nothing  to  be 
seen.  How  is  it  that  our  sages  tell  us  our  species  is  much 
improved?  If  we  murder  now  in  cool  blood,  and  in  a  most 
terrifying  way,  our  brother,  we  are  not  a  jot  forward  since 
the  time  of  Cain. 

January  13.  Painted  five  hours,  and  at  two  o'clock 
accompanied  by  Mr.  Lizars,  reached  the  University  and 
entered  the  rooms  of  the  Wernerian  Society  with  a  paper 
on  the  habits  of  Alligators  in  my  pocket,  to  be  read  to  the 
members  and  visitors  present.  This  I  read  after  the  busi- 
ness of  the  meeting  had  been  transacted,  and,  thank  God, 
after  the  effort  of  once  beginning,  I  went  on  unfalteringly 
to  the  end.  In  the  evening  I  went  with  Mr.  Lizars  to  see 
"As  You  Like  It."  Miss  Foote  performed  and  also  Mr. 
Murray,  but  the  house  was  so  crowded  that  I  could  scarce 
see. 

January  llj..  Could  not  work  on  my  picture,  for  I  have 
no  white  Pheasant  for  a  key-stone  of  light,  but  Professor 
Jameson  called  and  said  he  would  write  for  one  for  me  to 
the  Duke  of  Buccleugh.  After  receiving  many  callers  I  went 
to  Mr.  O'Neill's  to  have  a  cast  taken  of  my  head.  My 
coat  and  neckcloth  were  taken  off,  my  shirt  collar  turned 
down,  I  was  told  to  close  my  eyes ;  Mr.  O'Neill  took  a 
large  brush  and  oiled  my  whole  face,  the  almost  liquid 
plaster  of  Paris  was  poured  over  it,  as  I  sat  uprightly  till 
the  whole  was  covered ;  my  nostrils  only  were  exempt.  In 
a  few  moments  the  plaster  had  acquired  the  needful  con- 
sistency, when  it  was  taken  off  by  pulling  it  down  gently. 
The  whole  operation  lasted  hardly  five  minutes ;  the  only 
inconvenienct  .elt  was  the  weight  of  the  material  pulling 
downward  over  my  sinews  and  flesh.  On  my  return  from 
the  Antiquarian  Society  that  evening,  I  found  my  face  on 
the  table,  an  excellent  cast. 

January  17  to  Sunday,  21st.    John  Syme,  the  artist,  asked 
me  if  I  did  not  wish  to  become  an  associate  member  of 


■'       ■  I 


206 


AUDUBON 


■mw\ 


the  Scottish  Artists.  I  answered,  "Yes."  I  have  promised 
to  paint  a  picture  of  Black  Cock  for  their  exhibition,  and 
with  that  view  went  to  market,  where  for  fifteen  shillings  I 
purchased  two  superb  males  and  one  female.  I  have  been 
painting  pretty  much  all  day  and  every  day.  Among  my 
visitors  I  have  had  the  son  of  Smollett,  the  great  writer,  a 
handsome  young  gentleman.  Several  noblemen  came  to 
see  my  Pheasants,  and  all  promised  me  a  white  one.  Profes- 
sor Russell  called  and  read  me  a  letter  from  Lord  , 

giving  me  leave  to  see  the  pictures  at  his  hall,  but  I,  poor 
Audubon,  go  nowhere  without  an  invitation. 

Jamtary  22,  Monday.  I  was  painting  diligently  when 
Captain  Hall  came  in,  and  said  :  "  Put  on  your  coat,  and 
come  with  me  to  Sir  Walter  Scott;  he  wishes  to  see  you 
now!'  In  a  moment  I  was  ready,  for  I  really  believe  my 
coat  and  hat  came  to  me  instead  of  my  going  to  them. 
My  heart  trembled ;  I  longed  for  the  meeting,  yet  wished 
it  over.  Had  not  his  wondrous  pen  penetrated  my  soul 
with  the  consciousness  that  here  was  a  genius  from  God's 
hand  ?  I  felt  overwhelmed  at  the  thought  of  meeting  Sir 
Walter,  the  Great  Unknown.  We  reached  the  house,  and 
a  powdered  waiter  was  asked  if  Sir  Walter  were  in.^  We 
were  shown  forward  at  once,  and  entering  a  very  small 
room  Captain  Hall  said  :  "  Sir  Walter,  I  have  brought  Mr. 
Audubon."  Sir  Walter  came  forward,  pressed  my  hand 
warmly,  and  said  he  was  "  glad  to  have  the  honor  of  meet- 
ing me."  His  long,  loose,  silvery  locks  struck  me;  he 
looked  like  Franklin  at  his  best.     He  also  reminded  me  of 


1  "Jan.  22,  1827.  A  visit  from  Basil  Hall  with  Mr.  Audubon  the  orni 
thologist,  who  has  followed  that  pursuit  by  many  a  long  wandering  in  the 
American  forests.  He  is  an  American  by  naturalization,  a  Frenchman  by 
birth,  but  less  of  a  Frenchman  than  I  have  ever  seen,  —  no  dash,  no  glim- 
mer or  shine  about  him,  but  great  simplicity  of  manners  and  behaviour; 
slight  in  person  and  plainly  dressed ;  wears  long  hair  which  time  h.\s  not 
yet  tinged ;  his  countenance  acute,  handsome,  and  interesting,  but  ^  "' 
plicity  is  the  predominant  characteristic."  ( Journal  of  Sir  Walter  i^^oiti 
vol.  i.,  p.  343.) 


li  I- 


I'rniii  tin; 


'^t-TDUBOX. 


I'"'f"it  l.y  Il.nry  „„„, 


'"•     ^""intlH.,,,,,,,., 


i"»  "f  tlli;  finiily. 


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Scoi 

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and 

him, 

Winds! 
city. 

bust  c 

others. 

of  the 

'"ngton, 

receive  I 

'■eturn.' 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


207 


Benjamin  West;  he  had  the  great  benevolence  of  Wm, 
Roscoe  about  him,  and  a  kindness  most  prepossessing,  I 
could  not  forbear  looking  at  him,  my  eyes  feasted  on  his 
countenance.  I  watched  his  movements  as  I  would  those 
of  a  celestial  being ;  his  long,  heavy,  white  eyebrows  struck 
me  forcibly.  His  little  room  was  tidy,  though  it  partook  a 
good  deal  of  the  character  of  a  laboratory.  He  was 
wrapped  in  a  quilted  morning-gown  of  light  purple  silk; 
he  had  been  at  work  writing  on  the  "  Life  of  Napoleon." 
He  writes  close  lines,  rather  curved  as  they  go  from  left  to 
right,  and  puts  an  immense  deal  on  very  little  paper. 
After  a  few  minutes  had  elapsed  he  begged  Captain  Hall 
to  ring  a  bell ;  a  servant  came  and  was  asked  to  bid  Miss 
Scott  come  to  see  Mr.  Audubon.  Miss  Scott  came,  black- 
haired  and  black-dressed,  not  handsome  but  said  to  be 
highly  accomplished,  and  she  is  the  daughter  of  Sir  Walter 
Scott.  There  was  much  conversation.  I  talked  little,  but, 
believe  me,  I  listened  and  observed,  careful  if  ignorant.  I 
cannot  write  more  now.  —  I  have  just  returned  from  the 
Royal  Society.  Knowing  that  I  was  a  candidate  for  the 
electorate  of  the  society,  I  felt  very  uncomfortable  and 
would  gladly  have  been  hunting  on  Tawapatee  Bottom. 

January  23,  Tuesday.  My  first  visitor  was  Mr.  Hays 
the  antiquarian,  who  needed  my  assistance,  or  rather  my 
knowledge  of  French  in  the  translation  of  a  passage  re- 
lating to  "  le  droit  du  seigneur."  Dr.  Combe  called  later 
and  begged  me  to  go  to  Mr.  Joseph,  the  sculptor,  with 
him,  and  through  a  great  fall  of  snow  we  went  through 
Windsor  Street,  one  of  the  handsomest  in  this  beautiful 
city.  Mr.  Joseph  was  in,  and  I  saw  an  uncommonly  good 
bust  of  Sir  Walter,  one  of  Lord  Morton,  and  several 
others.  I  have  powerfully  in  my  mind  to  give  my  picture 
of  the  "  Trapped  Otter  "  to  Mrs.  Basil  Hall,  and,  by  Wash- 
ington, I  will.  No  one  deserves  it  more,  and  I  cannot 
receive  so  many  favors  without  trying  to  make  some 
return. 


I 


101 


208 


AUDUBON 


January  2If.  My  second  visit  to  Sir  Walter  Scott  was 
much  more  agreeable  than  my  first.  My  portfolio  and  its 
contents  were  matters  on  which  I  could  speak  substan- 
tially/ and  I  found  him  so  willing  to  level  himself  with  mc 
for  a  while  that  the  time  spent  at  his  home  was  agreeable 
and  valuable.  His  daughter  improved  in  looks  the  mo- 
ment she  spoke,  having  both  vivacity  and  good  sense. 

January  28.  Yesterday  I  had  so  many  visitors  that  I 
was  quite  fatigued  ;  my  rooms  were  full  all  the  time,  yet  I 
work  away  as  if  they  were  so  many  cabbages,  except  for  a 
short  time  taken  to  show  them  a  few  drawings,  give  them 
chairs,  and  other  civil  attentions.  In  the  evening  I  went  to 
the  theatre  to  see  the  "  Merchant  of  Venice ;  "  the  night 
was  violently  stormy,  the  worst  I  remember  for  years.  I 
thought  of  the  poor  sailors,  what  hard  lives  they  have. 

January  30,  Tuesday.  The  days  begin  to  show  a  val- 
uable augmentation.  I  could  this  morning  begin  work  at 
eight,  and  was  still  at  my  easel  at  four.  A  man  may  do  a 
good  deal  on  a  painting  in  eight  hours  provided  he  has  the 
power  of  laying  the  true  tints  at  once,  and  does  not  muddy 
his  colors  or  need  glazing  afterwards.  Now  a  query  arises. 
Did  the  ancient  artists  and  colorists  ever  glaze  their  work? 
I  sometimes  think  they  did  not,  and  I  am  inclined  to  think 
thus  because  their  work  is  of  great  strength  of  standing, 
and  extremely  solid  and  confirmed  on  the  canvas  —  a  proof 
with  me  that  they  painted  clean  and  bright  at  once,  but 
that  this  once  they  repeated,  perhaps,  as  often  as  three  ^ 
times.  Glazing  certainly  is  a  beautiful  way  of  effecting 
transparency,  particularly  over  shadowy  parts,  but  I  fre- 

^  "January  24.  Visit  from  Mr.  Audubon,  who  brings  some  of  his  birds. 
The  drawings  are  of  the  first  order  —  the  attitudes  of  the  birds  of  the  most 
animated  character,  and  the  situations  appropriate.  .  .  .  This  sojourner 
of  the  desert  had  been  in  the  woods  for  months  together.  He  preferred  as- 
sociating with  the  Indians  to  the  company  of  the  settlers;  very  justly, I 
daresay,  for  a  civilized  man  of  the  lower  order  when  thrust  back  on  the 
savage  state  becomes  worse  than  a  savage."  ( Journal  of  Sir  Walter  Scott, 
vol.  i.,  p.  345.) 


I 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


209 


jf::| 


qucntly  fear  the  coatinj^  being  so  thin,  and  that  time  preys 
on  these  parts  more  powerfully  than  on  those  unglazed,  so 
that  the  work  is  sooner  destroyed  by  its  application  than 
without  it.  I  am  confident  Sir  Joshua  Reynolds'  pictures 
fade  so  much  in  consequence  of  hi.i  constant  glazing. 
Lord  Hay,  who  has  only  one  arm,  called  this  morning,  and 
promised  me  White  Pheasants  by  Saturday  morning.  So 
many  people  have  called  that  I  have  not  put  a  foot  out 
to-day. 

January  31,  Wednesday.  I  had  the  delight  of  receiv- 
ing letters  from  home  to-day ;  how  every  word  carried  me 
to  my  beloved  America.  Oh,  that  I  could  be  with  you 
and  see  those  magnificent  forests,  and  listen  to  sweet 
Wood  Thrushes  and  the  Mock-Birds  so  gay ! 

February  1.  I  have  just  finished  a  picture  of  Black 
Cock  sunning  and  dusting  themselves,  with  a  view  in  the 
background  of  Loch  Lomond,  nine  feet  by  six,  for  which 
I  am  offered  two  hundred  guineas.  It  will  be  exhibited  at 
the  Royal  Institute  rooms  next  week,  and  the  picture  of 
the  Pheasants,  the  same  size,  at  the  Scottish  Society  of 
Artists,  of  which  I  am  now  an  associate  member. 

February  5.  None  of  my  promised  White  Pheasants 
have  come,  but  I  have  determined  the  picture  shall  be 
finished  if  I  have  to  paint  in  a  black  Crow  instead.  Dr. 
Brewster  spoke  to  me  of  a  camera  lucida  to  enable  me  to 
outline  birds  with  great  rapidity.  I  would  like  such  an 
.instrument  if  merely  to  save  time  in  hot  weather,  when 
outlining  correctly  is  more  than  half  the  work.  At  eight 
o'clock  I  entered  the  rooms  of  the  Royal  Society.  I  opened 
my  large  sheets  and  laid  them  on  the  table ;  the  astonish- 
ment of  every  one  was  great,  and  I  saw  with  pleasure  many 
eyes  look  from  them  to  me.  The  business  of  the  society 
was  then  done  behind  closed  doors ;  but  when  these  were 
opened  and  we  were  called  into  the  great  room,  Captain 
Hall,  taking  my  hand,  led  me  to  a  seat  immediately  oppo- 
site to  Sir  Walter  Scott ;  then,  Lucy,  I  had  a  perfect  view  of 

VOL.   I.  —  14 


il< 


2IO 


A  UDUBON 


that  great  man,  and  I  studied  from  Nature  Nature's  noblest 
work.  After  a  lecture  on  the  introduction  of  the  Greek 
language  into  England,  the  president.  Sir  Walter,  rose  and 
we  all  followed  his  example.  Sir  Walter  came  to  me,  shook 
my  hand  cordially,  and  asked  me  how  the  cold  weather  of 
Edinburgh  agreed  with  me.  This  mark  of  attention  was 
observed  by  other  members,  who  looked  at  me  as  if  I  had 
been  a  distinguished  stranger. 

February  0.  I  have  been,  and  am  yet,  greatly  depressed, 
yet  why  I  am  so  it  is  impossible  for  me  lo  conceive, 
unless  it  be  that  slight  vexations,  trifling  in  themselves,  are 
trying  to  me,  because,  alas  !  I  am  only  a  very,  very  com- 
mon man.  I  dined  to-night  at  Professor  Jameson's,  and 
as  my  note  said  "  with  a  few  friends,"  was  surprised  to 

find  thirty  besides  myself     The  engineer,  Mr.  S ,  was 

here,  and  many  other  noted  men,  including  the  famous 
Professor  Leslie,  ^  an  enormous  mass  of  flesh  and  an  ex- 
tremely agreeable  man,  who  had  been  in  Virginia  many 
years  ago,  but  recollects  those  days  well. 

February  10,  I  visited  the  Royal  Institution  this  morn- 
ing, and  saw  my  Black  Cocks  over  the  first  of  the  first- 
room  doors.  I  know  well  that  the  birds  are  drawn  as  well 
as  any  birds  ever  have  been ;  but  what  a  difference  exists 
between  drawing  one  bird  or  a  dozen  and  amalgamating 
them  with  a  sky,  a  landscape,  and  a  well  adapted  foreground. 
Who  has  not  felt  a  sense  of  fear  while  trying  to  combine 
all  this?  I  looked  at  my  work  long,  then  walked  round  the 
room,  when  my  eyes  soon  reached  a  picture  by  Landsecr, 
the  death  of  a  stag.  I  saw  much  in  it  of  the  style  of  those 
men  who  know  how  to  handle  a  brush  and  carry  a  good 
effect;  but  Nature  was  not  there,  although  a  Stag,  three 
dogs,  and  a  Highlander  were  introduced  on  the  canvas. 
The  Stag  had  his  tongue  out  and  his  mouth  shut !  The 
principal  dog,  a  greyhound,  held   thr  Deer  by  one  car 

1  Sir  John  Leslie,  1766-1832,  Scottish  geometer  and  natural  philosopher 
and  voluminous  author  on  these  subjects. 


t 


¥' 


I  i 


T//E  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


211 


[good 
Itbvee 

The 

Ic  cat 


9sophe' 


just  as  if  a  loving  friend ;  the  young  hunter  has  laced  the 
Deer  by  one  horn  very  prettily,  and  in  the  attitude  of  a 
ballet-dancer  was  about  to  cast  the  noose  over  the  head 
of  the  animal.  To  me,  or  to  my  friends  Dr.  Pope  or  Mr. 
Bourgeat  such  a  picture  is  quite  a  farce ;  not  so  here  how- 
ever. Many  other  pictures  drew  my  attention,  and  still 
more  so  the  different  artists  who  came  in  with  brushes 
and  palettes  to  tickle  their  pictures.  I  was  to  read  a  paper 
at  the  Wernerian  Society  on  the  Rattlesnake,  but  had  not 
had  time  to  finish  it;  nevertheless  I  went  to  the  society 
rooms,  which  were  crowded.  I  was  sorry  I  was  not  pre- 
pared to  read  to  those  assembled  that  a  Rattlesnake 
rattled  his  tail,  not  to  give  knowledge  to  man  of  his  pres- 
ence, but  because  he  never  strikes  without  rattling,  and 
that  destitute  of  that  appendage  he  cannot  strike  at  all. 
The  wind  blows  a  doleful  tune  and  I  feel  utterly  alone. 

Monday,  February  12.  Mr.  Lizars  insisted  on  my  going 
to  the  Antiquarian  Society,  saying  it  was  usual  for  a  mem- 
ber newly  elected  to  be  present  on  the  first  occasion 
possible.  I  went,  of  course,  but  felt  very  sheepish  withal. 
Wo  had  an  excellent  paper  by  Mr.  Hays  respecting  a  bell 
found  in  Argyle,  of  very  ancient  date. 

Tuesday,  February  13.  This  was  the  grand,  long  prom- 
ised, and  much  wished-for  day  of  the  opening  of  the 
Exhibition  at  the  rooms  of  the  Royal  Institution.  At  one 
o'clock  I  went,  the  doors  were  just  opened,  and  in  a  few 
minutes  the  rooms  were  crowded.  Sir  Walter  Scott  was 
present;  he  came  towards  me,  shook  my  hand  cordially, 
and  pointing  to  Landseer's  picture  said :  "  Many  such 
scenes,  Mr.  Audubon,  have  I  witnesssd  in  my  younger 
days."  We  talked  much  of  all  about  us,  and  I  would 
gladly  have  joined  him  in  a  glass  of  wine,  but  my  foolish 
habits  prevented  me,  and  after  inquiring  of  his  daughter's 
health,  I  left  him,  and  shortly  afterwards  the  rooms ;  for  I 
had  a  great  appetite,  and  although  there  were  tables 
loaded  with  delicacies,  and  I  saw  the  ladies  particularly 


«    ■ 

elf  '''■ 


fv  I 


212 


AUDUBON 


eating  freely,  I  must  say  to  my  shame  /  dared  not  lay  my 
fingers  on  a  single  thing.  In  the  evening  I  went  to  the 
theatre  where  I  was  much  amused  by  "  The  Comedy  of 
Errors,"  and  afterwards  "  The  Green  Room."  I  admire 
Miss  Neville's  singing  very  much;  and  her  manners  also; 
there  is  none  of  the  actress  about  her,  but  much  of  the 
lady. 

Tuesday^  20th.     A  week  has  passed  without  writing  here 
because  I  have  done  nothing  else  but  write  —  many  letters 
for  Captain  Hall,  and  at  his  request  a  paper  to  be  read  at 
the  Natural  History  Society.     I  pitched  on  the  "  Habits  of 
the  Wild  Pigeon."     I  began  on  Wednesday,  and  it  took  me 
until  half-past  three  of  the  morning,  and  after  a  few  hours' 
sleep  I  rose  to  correct  it,  which  was  needed,  I  can  assure 
thee.     Were  it  not  for  \.\\q  fads  it  contains,  I  would  not 
give  a  cent  for  it,  nor  anybody  else,  I  dare  say.     I  positively 
brought  myself  so   much  among  the  Pigeons  and  in  the 
woods  of  America   that  my  ears  were  as  if  really  filled 
with  the   noise  of  their  wings ;  I  was  tired  and  my  eyes 
ached.    I  dined  at  a  Mr.  Tytler's  and  met  among  the  guests 
Mr.  Cruden,  brother  of  the  compiler  of  the  famous  con- 
cordance.    On  Sunday  I  made  for  the  seashore,  and  walked 
eight  miles ;  the  weather  was  extremely  cold,  my  ears  and 
nose  I  thought  would  drop , off,  yet  I  went  on.     Monday 
Captain  Hall  called  to  speak  to  me  about  my  paper  on 
Pigeons ;  he  complained  that  I  expressed  the  belief  that 
Pigeons  were  possessed  of  affection  and  tenderest  love,  and 
that  this  raised  the  brute  species  to  a  level  with  man.    0 
man !  misled,  self-conceited  being,  when   wilt  thou   keep 
within  the  sphere  of  humility  that,  with  all  thy  vices  and 
wickedness  about  thee,  should  be  thine.     At  the  exhibi- 
tion rooms  I  put  up  my  drawing  of  the  Wild  Pigeons  and 
Captain  Hall  read  my  paper.    I  was  struck  with  the  silence 
and  attention  of  the  audience.     The  president  invited  me 
to  supper  with  him,  but  I  was  too  excited,  so  excused 
myself. 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


213 


February  21.  I  wrote  again  nearly  all  day,  and  in  the 
evening  went  to  the  theatre  to  see  "  The  School  for  Grown 
Children." 

February  23.  Young  Hutchinson  came  about  the  middle 
of  the  day,  and  I  proposed  we  should  have  an  early  dinner 
and  a  long  walk  after  for  the  sake  of  exercise,  that  I  now 
find  much  needed.  VVe  proceeded  towards  the  village  of 
Portobello,  distant  three  miles,  the  weather  delightful,  the 
shore  dotted  with  gentlemen  on  horseback  galloping  over 
the  sand  in  all  directions.  The  sea  calm  and  smooth,  had 
many  fishing-boats.  The  village  is  a  summer  resort,  built 
handsomely  of  white  stone,  and  all  was  quietness.  From 
here  we  proceeded  across  country  to  Duddingston,  about 
a  mile  and  a  half,  to  see  the  skaters  on  the  lake,  a  mere 
duck  puddle ;  but  the  ice  was  too  thin,  and  no  skaters 
were  there.  We  gradually  ascended  the  hill  called  Arthur's 
Scat,  and  all  of  a  sudden  came  in  full  view  of  the  fair  city. 
We  entered  in  the  Old  Town  and  reached  my  lodgings 
by  the  North  Bridge.  I  was  quite  tired,  and  yet  I  had 
not  walked  more  than  ten  miles.  I  thought  this  strange, 
and  wondered  if  it  could  be  the  same  body  that  travelled 
over  one  hundred  and  sixty-five  miles  in  four  days  without 
a  shade  of  fatigue.  The  cities  do  not  tempt  me  to  walk, 
and  so  I  lose  the  habit. 

February  2Jj,.  To  the  Wernerian  Society  at  two  o'clock, 
my  drawing  of  the  Mocking-Bird  with  me.  The  room  was 
completely  filled,  and  a  paper  on  the  rhubarb  of  commerce 
was  read  ;  it  was  short,  and  then  Professor  Jameson  called  my 
name.  I  rose,  and  read  as  distinctly  as  I  could  my  paper 
on  Rattlesnakes,  a  job  of  three  quarters  of  an  hour.  Hav- 
ing finished  I  was  cheered  by  all,  and  the  thanks  of  the 
Assembly  unanimously  voted.  My  cheeks  burned,  and  after 
a  few  questions  had  been  put  me  by  the  president  and  some 
of  the  gentlemen  present,  I  handed  my  manuscript  to 
Professor  Jameson,  and  was  glad  to  be  gone.  Young  Mur- 
ray, the  son  of  the  London  publisher,  accompanied  me  to 


I- 

I 


I 


m 


214 


AUDUBON 


■f  3i, 


!  il 


the  Scottish  Society  Exhibition,  but  I  soon  left  him  as  so 
many  eyes  were  directed  to  me  that  I  was  miserable. 

February  27.  It  blew  and  rained  tremendously,  and 
this  morning  I  parted  from  Captain  Hall,  who  goes  to 
London.  His  leaving  Edinburgh  affects  me  considerably; 
he  is  a  kind,  substantial  friend,  and  when  we  finally  shook 
hands,  I  doubt  not  he  knew  the  feeling  in  my  heart.  This 
evening  was  spent  at  Mr.  Joseph's  the  sculptor.  There 
were  a  number  of  guests,  and  music  and  dancing  was  pro- 
posed. My  fame  as  a  dancer  produced,  I  am  sure,  false 
expectations  ;  nevertheless  I  found  myself  on  the  floor 
with  Mrs.  Joseph,  a  lively,  agreeable  little  lady,  much  my 
junior,  and  about  my  Lucy's  age.  After  much  dancing, 
during  which  light  refreshments  were  served,  we  sat  down 
to  supper  at  twelve  o'clock,  and  we  did  not  leave  till 
three. 

February  28.  I  have  been  reading  Captain  Hall's  "Voy- 
ages and  Travels,"  and  going  much  about  to  rest  my  eyes 
and  head ;  but  these  few  days  of  idleness  have  completely 
sickened  me,  and  have  given  me  what  is  named  the  Blue 
Devils  so  effectually  that  the  sooner  I  drive  them  off  the 
better. 

March  1.  Mr.  Kidd,'  the  landscape  artist,  breakfasted 
with  me,  and  we  talked  painting  a  long  time.  I  admired 
him  for  his  talents  at  so  early  a  period  of  life,  he  being 
only  nineteen.  What  would  I  have  been  now  if  equally 
gifted  by  nature  at  that  age?  But,  sad  reflection,  I  have 
been  forced  constantly  to  hammer  and  stammer  as  if  in 
opposition  to  God's  will,  and  so  therefore  am  nothing 
now  but  poor  Audubon.  I  asked  him  to  come  to  me 
daily  to  eat,  drink,  and  give  me  the  pleasure  of  his  com- 
pany and  advice.  I  told  him  my  wish  was  so  intense  to 
improve  in  the  delightful  art  of  painting  that  I  should  be- 
gin a  new  picture  to-morrow,  and  took  down  my  portfolio 
to  look  for  one  of  my  drawings  to  copy  in  oil.  He  had 
1  Joseph  B.  Kidd,  .vho  later  copied  many  of  Audubon's  birds. 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


215 


never  seen  my  work,  and  his  bright  eyes  gazed  eagerly  on 
what  he  saw  with  admiration. 

March  2.  Mr.  Kidd  breakfasted  with  me,  and  we 
painted  the  whole  day. 

March  3.  I  painted  as  constantly  to-day,  as  it  snowed 
and  blew  hard  outside  my  walls.  I  thought  frequently 
that  the  devils  must  be  at  the  handles  of  iColus'  bellows, 
and  turned  the  cold  blasts  into  the  Scotch  mists  to  freeze 
them  into  snow.  It  is  full  twenty  years  since  I  saw  the 
like  before.  I  dined  at  Mr.  Ritchie's,  reaching  his  house 
safely  through  more  than  two  feet  of  snow. 

March  Jf.  The  weather  tolerably  fair,  but  the  snow  lay 
deep.  The  mails  from  all  quarters  were  stopped,  and  the 
few  people  that  moved  along  the  streets  gave  a  fuller  idea 
of  winter  in  a  northern  clime  than  anything  I  have  seen 
for  many  years.  Mr.  Hays  called  for  me,  and  we  went  to 
breakfast  with  the  Rev.  Mr.  Newbold,  immediately  across 
the  street.  I  was  trundled  into  a  sedan  chair  to  church. 
I  had  never  been  in  a  sedan  chair  before,  and  I  like  to 
try,  as  well  as  see,  all  things  on  the  face  of  this  strange 
world  of  ours ;  but  so  long  as  I  have  two  legs  and  feet 
below  them,  never  will  I  again  enter  one  of  these  machines, 
with  their  quick,  short,  up-and-down,  swinging  motion,  re- 
sembling the  sensations  felt  during  the  great  earthquake  in 
Kentucky.  But  Sydney  Smith  preached.  Oh !  what  a 
soul  there  must  be  in  the  body  of  that  great  man.  What 
sweet  yet  energetic  thoughts,  what  goodness  he  must  pos- 
sess. It  was  a  sermon  to  me.  He  made  me  smile,  and  he 
made  me  think  deeply.  He  pleased  me  at  times  by  painting 
my  foibles  with  due  care,  and  again  I  felt  the  color  come 
to  my  cheeks  as  he  portrayed  my  sins.  I  left  the  church 
full  of  veneration  not  only  towards  God,  but  towards  the 
wonderful  man  who  so  beautifully  illustrates  his  noblest 
handiwork.  After  lunch  Mr.  Hays  and  I  took  a  walk 
towards  Portobello,  tumbling  and  pitching  in  the  deep 
snow.    I  saw  Sky-Larks,  poor  things,  caught  in  snares  as 


2l6 


A  UDUBON 


easily —  as  men  are  caught.     For  a  wonder  I  have  done 
no  work  to-day. 

March  5,  As  a  lad  I  had  a  great  aversion  to  anything 
English  or  Scotch,  and  I  remember  when  travelling  with 
my  father  to  Rochefort  in  January,  iSoo,  I  mentioned  this 
to  him,  for  to  him,  thank  God,  I  always  told  all  my 
thoughts  and  expressed  all  my  ideas.  How  well  I  re- 
member his  reply :  "  Laforest,  thy  blood  will  cool  in 
time,  and  thou  wilt  be  surprised  to  see  how  gradually  pre- 
judices are  obliterated,  and  friendships  acquired,  towards 
those  that  at  one  time  we  held  in  contempt.  Thou  hast 
not  been  in  England ;  I  have,  and  it  is  a  fine  country." 
What  has  since  taken  place?  I  have  admired  and  esteemed 
many  English  and  Scotch,  and  therefore  do  I  feel  proud 
to  tell  thee  that  I  am  a  Fellow  of  the  Royal  Society  of 
Edinburgh.  My  day  has  been  rather  dull,  though  I  painted 
assiduously.  This  evening  I  went  to  the  Society  of  Arts, 
where  beautiful  experiments  were  shown  by  the  inventors 
themselves ;  a  steam  coach  moved  with  incomprehensible 
regularity.  I  am  undetermined  whether  to  go  to  Glasgow 
on  my  way  to  Dublin,  or  proceed  overland  to  Newcastle, 
Liverpool,  Oxford,  Cambridge,  and  so  on  to  London,  but 
I  shall  move  soon. 

March  7.  This  evening  I  was  introduced  to  Sydney 
Smith,  the  famous  preacher  of  last  Sunday,  and  his  fair 
daughters,  and  heard  them  sing  most  sweetly.  I  offered 
to  show  them  some  of  my  drawings  and  they  appointed 
Saturday  at  one  o'clock.  The  wind  is  blowing  as  if  intent 
to  destroy  the  fair  city  of  Edinburgh. 

March  8.  The  weather  was  dreadful  last  night  and  stil! 
continues  so ;  the  snow  is  six  feet  deep  in  some  parts  of 
the  great  roads,  and  I  was  told  at  the  Post  Office  that 
horsemen  sent  with  the  mail  to  London  had  been  obliged 
to  abandon  their  horses,  and  proceed  on  foot.  Wrote  a 
letter  to  Sir  Walter  Scott  requesting  a  letter  of  introduc- 
tion, or  shall  I  ^diy  endorse jnetit,  and  his  servant  brought  me 


m- 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


217 


a  gratifying  reply  at  eight  of  the  evening.  At  one  Dr. 
Spcncc  came  with  Miss  Neville,  the  delightful  singer  at 
the  theatre,  her  mother,  and  Miss  Hamilton.  They  sat 
with  me  some  time,  and  I  was  glad  to  see  near-by  the 
same  Miss  Neville  whom  I  admire  so  much  at  the  play.  I 
found  her  possessed  of  good  sense  and  modesty,  and  like 
her  much;  her  mother  asked  me  to  spend  the  evening  of 
next  Saturday  with  them,  and  said  her  daughter  would 
sing  for  me  with  pleasure.  Had  a  note  from  Sydney 
Smith;  the  man  should  study  economy;  he  would  destroy 
more  paper  in  a  day  than  Franklin  in  a  week;  but  all  great 
men  are  more  or  less  eccentric.  Walter  Scott  writes  a 
diminutive  hand,  very  difficult  to  read.  Napoleon  a  large, 
scrawling  one,  still  more  difficult,  and  Sydney  Smith  goes 
up-hill  all  the  way  with  large  strides. 

March  0.  My  first  work  this  day  was  to  send  as  a 
present  to  Miss  Anne  Scott  a  copy  of  my  first  number. 
Professor  Wilson  called  and  promised  to  come  again  on 
Monday. 

March  10.  I  visited  Mr.  James  B.  Fraser,  ^  a  great 
traveller  in  Asia  and  Africa,  and  saw  there  a  large  col^ 
lection  of  drawings  and  views  in  water-colors  of  the 
scenery  of  these  countries.  The  lecture  at  the  Wernerian 
Society  was  very  interesting ;  it  was  on  the  uses  of  cotton 
in  Egypt,  and  the  origin  of  the  name  in  the  English  lan- 
guage. I  dined  at  Mr.  Neill's  ;  among  the  guests  was  a  Mr. 
Blair,  the  superintendent  of  the  Botanical  Gardetis  here; 
he  has  been  in  different  parts  of  America  frequently.  There 
were  several  other  gentlemen  present  intferested  in  like 
subjects,  and  we  talked  of  little  else  than  trees  and  exotic 
plants,  biids  and  beasts;  in  fact  it  was  a  naturalists'  dinner, 
but  a  much  better  one  than  naturalists  generally  have  who 
study  in  the  woods.  I  was  obliged  to  leave  early,  as  I  had 
an  engagement  at  Miss  Neville's.  Tea  was  served,  after 
which  Miss  Neville  rose,  and  said  she  would  open  the 
^  James  Baillie  Fraser,  1 783-1856,  Scottish  writer  of  travels. 


IW 


r 


218 


AUDUBON 


concert.  I  was  glad  to  see  her  simply  but  beautifully 
dressed  in  a  plain  white  gown  of  fine  muslin,  with  naught 
but  her  fine  auburn  hair  loose  in  large  curls  about  her  neck, 
and  a  plain  scarf  of  a  light-rose  color.  She  sang  and 
played  most  sweetly ;  the  gentlemen  present  were  all  more 
or  less  musical,  and  we  had  fine  glees,  duets,  trios.  The 
young  lady  scarcely  left  off  singing,  for  no  sooner  was  a 
song  finished  than  some  one  asked  for  another  ;  she  im- 
mediately replied,  "  Oh,  yes,"  and  in  a  moment  the  room 
was  filled  with  melody.  I  thought  she  must  be  fatigued, 
and  told  her  so,  but  she  replied :  "  Mr.  Audubon,  singing 
is  like  painting ;  it  never  fatigues  if  one  is  fond  of  it,  and  I 
am."  After  a  handsome  supper  we  had  more  singing,  and 
it  was  past  two  o'clock  when  I  rose,  shook  hands  with 
Miss  Neville,  bowed  to  the  company,  and  made  my  exit. 

March  12.     I  can  scarcely  believe  that  this  day,  there 
is  in  many  places  six  feet  of  snow,  yet  with  all  this  no 
invitation  is  ever  laid  aside,  and  last  evening  I  went  to 
dinner  in  a  coach  drawn  by  four  horses.     At  noon  to-day 
I  went  with  Mr.  Lizars  to  the  Assembly  Rooms,  to  see  the 
fencing.      About   a   thousand   persons,  all  in  full   dress, 
gathered   in  a  few  minutes,  and  a  circle   being   formed, 
eight  young  men   came   in,   and  went   through  the  first 
principles  of  fencing;    we  had  fine  martial  music  and  a 
succession  of  fencing  turns  till  two  o'clock,  when  the  assault 
began   between   the   two   best   scholars.     Five  hits  were 
required  to  win  the  prize  —  a   fine    sword  —  and   it  was 
presented  to  the  conqueror,  a  Mr.  Webster.     At  half-past 
six   I   dined  at  Mr.   Hamilton's,  where  a  numerous  and 
agreeable  party  was  assembled.     At  ten  Miss  Neville  and 
her  mother  came  with  still  others.     We  had  dancing  and 
singing,  and  here  I  am,  quite  wearied  at  half-past  three; 
but  I  must  be  up  early  to-morrow  morning. 

March  13.  The  little  I  slept  had  a  bad  effect  on  me,  for 
I  rose  cross  of  mind  and  temper.  I  took  a  long  walk  on 
the  London  road,  returned  and  reached  Brae  House,  and 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOUI  VALS 


219 


breakfasted  with  the  famous  Mrs.  Grant,^  an  old  lady  very 
deaf,  but  very  agreeable  withal.  Her  son  and  daughter 
and  another  lady  formed  our  party.  We  talked  of  nothing 
but  America;  Mrs.  Grant  is  positively  the  only  person  I 
have  met  here  who  knows  anything  true  about  my  country. 
I  promised  to  call  again  soon.  This  evening  I  dined  at 
Sir  James  Riddell's,  and  I  do  not  know  when  I  have 
spent  a  more  uncomfortable  evening;  the  company  were 
all  too  high  for  me,  though  Sir  James  and  his  lady  did  all 
they  could  for  me.  The  ton  here  surpassed  that  at  the 
Earl  of  Morton's ;  five  gentlemen  waited  on  us  while  at 
table,  and  two  of  these  put  my  cloak  about  my  shoul- 
ders, notwithstanding  all  I  could  say  to  the  contrary. 
Several  of  these  men  were  quite  as  well  dressed  as 
their  master.  What  will  that  sweet  lady,  Mrs.  Basil 
Hall  think  of  a  squatter's  hut  in  Mississippi  in  contrast 
with  this?  No  matter!  whatever  may  be  lacking,  there 
is  usually  a  hearty  welcome.  Oh !  my  America,  how 
dearly  I  love  thy  plain,  simple  manners. 

March  1^.  I  have  been  drawing  all  day,  two  Cat-birds 
and  some  blackberries  for  the  Countess  of  Morton,  and 
would  have  finished  it  had  I  not  been  disturbed  by  visitors. 
Mr.  Hays  came  with  his  son ;  he  asked  me  if  it  would  not 
be  good  policy  for  me  to  cut  my  hair  and  have  a  fashion- 
able coat  made  before  I  reached  London.  I  laughed,  and 
he  laughed,  and  my  hair  is  yet  as  God  made  it. 

March  17.  I  had  long  wished  to  visit  Roslyn  Castle 
and  the  weather  being  beautiful  I  applied  to  Mrs.  Dickie 
for  a  guide,  and  she  sent  her  son  with  me.  We  passed 
over  the  North  Bridge  and  followed  the  turnpike  road, 
passing  along  the  foot  of  the  Pentland  Hills,  looking  back 
frequently  to  view  Edinburgh  under  its  cloud  of  smoke, 
until  we  had  passed  a  small  eminence  that  completely  hid 
it  afterwards  from  our  sight.     Not  an  object  of  interest  lay 

^Mrs.  Anne  Grant,  poetess  and  miscellaneous  writer.  Bom  1755,  died 
1838. 


■V    ■: 


220 


AUDI/BON 


11,  \ 


in    our   way   until    we    suddenly   turned    southeast    and 
entered  the  little  village  of  Roslyn.     I  say  lUtlc,  because 
not  more  than  twenty  houses  are  there,  and  these  are  all 
small  except  one.     It  is  high,  however,  so  much  so  that 
from  it  we  looked  down  on  the  ruined  castle,  although  the 
elevation  of  the  castle  above  the  country  around  is  very 
great.     On  inquiry,  we  were  assured  that  the  chapel  was 
the   only   remaining    edifice   worthy   of    attention.      We 
walked  down  to  it  and  entered  an  enclosure,  when  before 
us  stood  the  remains  of  the  once  magnificent  Chapel  of 
Roslyn.     What  volumes  of  thoughts  rushed  into  my  mind. 
I,  who  had  read  of  the  place  years  before,  who  knew  by 
tradition  the  horrors  of  the  times  subsequent  to  the  found- 
ing  of  the   edifice,    now   confronted    reality.     I  saw  the 
marks  of  sacrilegious  outrage  on  objects  silent  themselves 
and  which  had  been  raised  in  adoration  to  God.     Strange 
that  times  which  produced  such   beautiful  works   of  art 
should  allow  the  thief  and  the  murderer  to  go  almost  un- 
punished.    This   Gothic  chapel  is  a   superb    relic ;    each 
stone  is  beautifully  carved,  and  each  dififers  from  all  the 
others.     The  ten  pillars  and  five  arches  are  covered  with 
the  finest  fret-work,  and  all  round  are  seen  the  pedestals 
that  once  supported  the  images  that  Knox's  party  were 
wont  to  destroy  without  thought  or  reason.     I  went  down 
some  mouldering  steps  into  the  Sacristy,  but  found  only 
bare  walls,  decaying  very  fast ;  yet  here  a  curious  plant 
was  growing,  of  a  verdigris  color.     To  reach  the  castle  we 
went   down   and  along  a  narrow  ridge,  on  each  side  of 
which  the  ground  went  abruptly  to  the  bottom  of  a  narrow, 
steep   valley,   through   which    a    small,    petulant    stream 
rushed  with  great  rapidity  over  a  rocky  bed.     This  guards 
three  sides  of  the  promontory  on  which    Roslyn   Castle 
once  was ;  for  now  only  a  few  masses  of  rubbish  were  to  be 
seen,  and  a  house  of  modern  structure  occupies  nearly  the 
original  site.     In  its  day  it  must  have  been  a  powerful 
structure,  but  now,  were  it  existing,  cannon  could  destroy 


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THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


221 


it  in  a  few  hours,  if  they  were  placed  on  the  opposite 
hills.  A  large  meadow  lay  below  us,  covered  with  bleach- 
ing linen,  and  the  place  where  we  stood  was  perfectly 
lonely,  not  even  the  reviving  chirp  of  a  single  bird  could 
be  heard,  and  my  heart  sank  low  while  my  mind  was  en- 
gaged in  recollections  of  the  place.  In  silence  we  turned 
and  left  the  Castle  and  the  little  village,  and  returned  by 
another  route  to  busy  Edinburgh.  The  people  were  just 
coming  out  of  church,  and  as  I  walked  along  I  felt  a  tap 
on  my  shoulder  and  heard  good  Mr.  NciU  say,  "  Where 
are  you  going  at  the  rate  of  six  miles  an  hour?  "  and  he 
took  nic  home  to  dine  with  him,  after  we  had  been  to  my 
lodgings,  where  I  put  my  feet  in  ice  cold  water  for  ten 
minutes,  when  I  felt  as  fresh  as  ever. 

March  JO,  1SJ7.  This  day  my  hair  was  sacrificed,  and 
the  will  of  God  usurped  by  the  wishes  of  man.  As  the 
barber  clipped  my  locks  rapidly,  it  reminded  me  of  the 
horrible  times  of  the  French  Revolution  when  the  same 
operation  was  performed  upon  all  the  victims  murdered  at 
the  guillotine  ;  my  heart  sank  low. 

John  J.  Audubon.^ 

Shortly  after  breakfast  I  received  a  note  from  Captain 
Hall,  and  another  from  his  brother,  both  filled  with  entrea- 
ties couched  in  strong  terms  that  I  should  alter  my  hair 
before  I  went  to  London.  Good  God  !  if  Thy  works  are 
hated  by  man  it  must  be  with  Thy  permission.  I  sent  for 
a  barber,  and  my  hair  was  mowed  off  in  a  trice.  I  knew  I 
was  acting  weakly,  but  rather  than  render  my  good  friend 
miserable  about  it,  I  suffered  the  loss  patiently. 

March  20.  I  visited  Mr.  Hays  at  his  office,  and  had 
the  pleasure  of  seeing  all  the  curious  ancient  manuscripts, 
letters,  mandates.  Acts  of  Parliament,  etc.,  connected  with 
the  official  events  of  Scotland  with  England  for  upwards 

*  This  entry  is  the  only  one  on  a  large  page,  of  which  a  facsimile  is  given. 
It  is  written  in  the  centre,  and  all  around  the  edge  of  the  paper  is  a  heavy 
black  border,  an  inch  in  depth. 


222 


AUDUBON 


of  three  hundred  years  past.  Large  volumes  are  written 
on  parchment,  by  hand,  and  must  have  been  works  of 
immense  labor.  The  volumes  containing  the  mere  trans- 
fers of  landed  estates  filed  within  the  last  forty  years 
amounted  to  almost  three  thousand,  and  the  parcels  of 
ancient  papers  filled  many  rooms  in  bundles  and  in  bags  '^f 
leather,  covered  with  dust,  and  mouldering  with  age.  The 
learned  antiquarian,  Mr.  Thompson,  has  been  at  great 
pains  to  put  in  order  all  these  valuable  and  curious  docu- 
ments. The  edifice  of  the  Registry  is  immense,  and  the 
long,  narrow  passages  proved  a  labyrinth  to  me.  Mr. 
Hays'  allotted  portion  of  curiosities  consists  of  Heraldry, 
and  I  saw  the  greatest  display  of  coats  of  arms  of  all  sorts, 
emblazoned  in  richest  style  on  sleek  vellum  and  parch- 
ment. 

March  21.     Called  on  Miss  D ,  the  fair  American. 

To  my  surprise  I  saw  the  prints  she  had  received  the 
evening  before  quite  abused  and  tumbled.  This,  how- 
ever, was  not  Tiy  concern,  and  I  regretted  it  only  on  her 
account,  that  so  little  care  should  be  taken  of  a  book  that 
in  fifty  years  will  be  sold  at  immense  prices  because  of  its 
rarity.^  The  wind  blew  great  guns  all  morniner.  Finding 
it  would  be  some  days  before  my  business  would  permit 
me  to  leave,  I  formed  an  agreement  to  go  to  see  the 
interior  of  the  Castle,  the  regalia,  and  other  curiosities  of 
the  place  to-morrow.  I  received  a  valuable  letter  of 
introduction  to  the  Secretary  of  the  Home  Department, 
Mr.  Peel,  from  the  Lord  Advocate  of  Scotland,  given  me 
at  the  particular  request  of  the  Countess  of  Morton,  a  most 
charming  lady ;  the  Earl  of  Morton  would  have  written 
himself  but  for  the  low  state  of  his  health. 

March  22.      After  lunch  the  Rev.  Wm.  Newbold  and  I 
proceeded  to  the  Castle  ;  the  wind  blew  furiously,  and  con- 

1  A  distinguished  ornithologist  said  of  the  book  in  1895  '•  "  I'  '^  °"^  °^  '*'* 
few  illustrated  books,  if  not  the  only  one,  that  steadily  increases  in  price  as 
the  years  go  on. ' 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


223 


scqiiently   no  smoke  interfered  with  the  objects  I  wished 
to  see.     We  passed  a  place  called  the  "  Mound,"  a  thrown- 
up  mass  of  earth  connecting  now  the  New  with  the  Old 
city  of  Edinburgh.     We   soon   reached  the  gates  of  the 
Castle,  and  I  perceived  plainly  that  I  was  looked  upon  as 
an  officer  from  the  contineiic.     Strange !  three  days  ago  I 
was  taken  for  a  priest,  quick  transition  caused  only  by  the 
clipping  of  my  locks.     We  crossed  the   drawbridge   and 
looked  attentively  at  the  deep  and  immense  dried  ditches 
below,   passed    through   the    powerful   double   gates,   all 
necessary  securities  to  such  a  place.     We  ascended  con- 
tinually  until  we  reached   the   parapets  where  the  King 
stood  during  his  visit,  bowing,  I  am  told,  to  the  gaping 
multitude  below,  his  hat  off,  and  proud  enough,  no  doubt, 
of  his  high  station.     My  hat  was  also  off,  but  under  differ- 
ent impulses ;  I  was  afraid  that  the  wind  would  rob  me  of 
it  suddenly.     I  did  not  bow  to  the  people,  buc  I  looked 
with  reverence  and  admiration  on  the  beauties  of  nature 
and  of  art  that  surrounded  me,  with  a  pleasure  seldom  felt 
before.     The  ocean  was  rugged  with  agitated  waves  as  far 
as  the   eye   could  reach   eastwardly;  not  a  vessel  dared 
spread  its  sails,  so  furious  was  the  gale.     The  high  moun- 
tains of  wild   Scotland  now  and  then  faintly  came  to  our 
view  as  the  swift-moving  clouds  passed,  and  suffered  the 
sun  to  cast  a  momentary  glance  at  them.     The  coast  of 
the  Frith  of  Forth  exhibited  handsome  villas,  and  noble- 
men's seats,  bringing  at  once  before  me  the  civilization  of 
man,  and  showing  how  weak  and  insignificant  we  all  are. 
My  eyes  followed  the  line  of  the  horizon  and  stopped  at  a 
couple  of  small  elevations,  that  I  knew  to  be  the  home  of 
the  Countess  of  Morton ;  then  I  turned  to  the  immense 
city  below,  where  men  looked  like  tiny  dwarfs,  and  horses 
smaller  than  sheep.     To  the  east  lay  the  Old  Town,  and 
now  and  then  came  to  my  ears  the  music  of  a  band  as  the 
squall  for  a  moment  abated.     I  could  have  remained  here 
a  whole  day,  but  my  companion   called,  and  I  followed 


224 


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1 

him  to  the  room  where  the  regaha  are  kept.  VVc  each 
wrote  our  names,  paid  our  shilling,  and  the  large  padlock 
was  opened  by  a  red-faced,  bulky  personage  dressed  in  a 
fanciful  scarlet  cloth,  hanging  about  him  like  mouldering 
tapestry.  A  small  oblong  room,  quite  dark,  lay  before  us  ; 
it  was  soon  lighted,  however,  by  our  conductor.  A  high 
railing  of  iron,  also  of  an  oblong  form,  surrounded  a  table 
covered  with  scarlet  cloth,  on  which  lay  an  immense  sword 
and  its  scabbard,  two  sceptres,  a  large,  square,  scarlet 
cushion  ornamented  with  golden  tassels,  and  above  all 
the  crown  of  Scotland.  All  the  due  explanations  were 
cried  out  by  our  conductor,  on  whose  face  the  reflection 
of  all  the  red  articles  was  so  powerfully  displayed  just  now 
that  it  looked  like  a  large  tomato,  quite  as  glittering,  but 
of  a  very  different  flavor,  I  assure  thee.  We  looked  at  all 
till  I  was  tired  ;  not  long  did  this  take,  for  it  had  not  one 
thousandth  portion  of  the  beauties  I  had  seen  from  the 
parapet.  We  left  the  Castle  intending  to  proceed  to  the 
stone  quarries  three  miles  distant,  but  the  wind  was  now  so 
fierce,  and  the  dust  so  troubled  my  eyes,  that  the  jaunt  was 
put  off  till  another  day.  I  paid  young  Kidd  three  guineas 
for  his  picture.  Have  just  had  some  bread  and  butter  and 
will  go  to  bed. 

March  23.  Young  Kidd  breakfasted  with  me,  and  no 
sooner  had  he  gone  than  I  set  to  and  packed  up.  I  felt  very 
low^-spirited ;  the  same  wind  keeps  blowing,  and  I  am  now 
anxious  to  be  off  to  Mr.  Selby's  Newcastle,  and  my  dear 
Green  Bank.  My  head  was  so  full  of  all  n;anncr  of 
thoughts  that  I  thought  it  was  Saturday,  instead  of  P>iday, 
and  at  five  o'clock  I  dressed  in  a  great  hurry  and  went  to 
Mr.  Henry  Witham's  with  all  possible  activity.  My  Lucy, 
I  was  not  expected  till  to-morrow !  Mr.  Witham  was  not 
at  home,  and  his  lady  tried  to  induce  me  to  remain  and 
dine  with  her  and  her  lovely  daughter;  but  I  declined, and 
marched  home  as  much  ashamed  of  my  blunder  as  a  fox 
who  has  lost  his  tail  in  a  trap.     Once  before  I  made  a 


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225 


sad  blunder;  I  promised  to  dine  at  three  different  houses 
the  same  day,  and  when  it  came  I  discovered  my  error, 
and  wrote  an  apology  to   all,  and  went  to   none. 

Twizel    House,    Bclford  —  NortJiiimbcrland,    April   10, 
1827.     Probably  since  ten  years  I  have  not  been  so  long 
without   recording  my  deeds  or  my  thoughts;    and  even 
now  I  feel  by  no  means  inclined  to  write,  and  for  no  par- 
ticular reason.     From  Friday  the  23d  of  March  till  the  5th 
of  April  my  time  was  busily  employed,  copying  some  of  my 
drawings,  from  five  in  the  morning  till  seven  at  night.     I 
dined  out  rarely,  as  I  found  the  time  used  by  this  encroached 
too  much  on  that  needed  by  my  ardent  desire  to  improve 
myself  in  oil  and  in  perspective,  which  I  wished  to  study 
with  close  attention.     Every  day  brought  me  packets  of 
letters  of  introduction,  and  I  called  here  and  there  to  make 
my  adieux.     I  went  often  in  the  evening  to  Mr.  Lizars' ; 
I  felt  the  parting  with  him  and  his  wife  and  sister  would 
be  hard,  and  together  we  attended  meetings  of  the  differ- 
ent societies.     The  last  night  I  went  to  the  Royal  Society. 
Sir  Wm.   Hamilton^    read   a  paper   against  phrenology, 
which  would    seem    to  quite  destroy  the  theory  of  Mr. 
Combe.     I  left  many  things  in  the  care  of  my  landlady, 
as  well  as  several  pictures,  and  at  six  o'clock  on  the  morn- 
ing of  April  5,  left  Edinburgh,  where  I  hope  to  go  again. 
The  weather  was  delightful.     We  passed  Dunbar  and  Ber- 
wick, our  road  near  the  sea  most  of  the  time,  and  at  half- 
past  four,  the  coach  stopped  opposite  the  lodge  of  Twizel 
House.     I  left  my  baggage  in  the  care  of  the  woman  at 
the   lodge,    and    proceeded   through    some   small   woods 
towards  the  house,  which  I  saw  after  a  few  minutes,  —  a 
fine  house,  commanding  an  extensive  view  of  the  country, 
the  German  Ocean,  and  Bamborough  Castle.     I  ascended 
the  great  staircase  with   pleasure,  for  I  knew   that   here 
was  congeniality   of  feeling.      Hearing    the   family  were 

One  of  the  greatest  metaphysicians  of  modern  times.    Horn  at  Glasgow 
■788,  died  in  Edinburgh,  1856. 
VOL.  I.  — 1,5 


ill 


226 


AUDUBON 


out  and  would  not  return  for  two  hours,  I  asked   to  be 
shown  to  the  library,  and  told  my  name.     The  man  said 
not  a  word,  went  off,  and  about  ten  minutes  after,  whilst 
I  was  reading  the  preface  of  William  Roscoe  to  his  "  Leo 
X.,"  returned  and  said  his  master  would  be  with  me  in  a 
moment.      I   understood   all   this.     Mr.  Selby  came  in,  in 
hunting-dress,  and  we  shook  hands  as  hunters   do.     He 
took  me  at  once  out  in  his  grounds,  where  Mrs.  Selby, 
his  three  daughters,  and  Captain  Mitford  his  brother-in- 
law  were  all  engaged  transplanting  trees,   and    I   felt  at 
home  at  once.     When  we  returned  to  the  house  Mr.  Selby 
conducted   me  to   his  laboratory^  where  guns,  birds,  etc., 
were  everywhere.     I  offered  to  make  a  drawing  and  Cap- 
tain Mitford  went  off  to  shoot  a  Chaffinch.    We  had  supper, 
after  which  the  eagerness  of  the  young  ladies   made  me 
open  my  box  of  drawings;  later  we  had  music,  and  the 
evening   passed  delightfully.     I    thought  much   of  home 
I  assure  thee,  and  of  Green  Bank  also,  and  then  of  my 
first  sight  of  thee  at  Fatland,  and  went  to  bed  thanking 
God  for   the  happy   moments  he  has   granted  us.     The 
next  morning  I  felt  afraid  my  early  habits  would  create 
some  disturbance  in  the   repose  of  the  family,  and  was 
trying  to  make   good    my  outing  at  five,  and  thought  I 
had  already  done  so,  when  to  my  surprise  and  consterna- 
tion the  opening  of  the  hall  door  made  such  a  noise  as  I 
doubted  not  must  have  been  heard  over  the  whole  estab- 
lishment;  notwithstanding,  I  issued  into  the  country  fresh 
air,  and  heard  all  around  me  the  Black-birds,  Thrushes, 
and  Larks  at  their  morning  songs.     I  walked,  or  rather 
ran  about,  like  a  bird  just  escaped  from  a  cage;  plucked 
flowers,  sought   for  nests,  watched   the   fishes,  and  came 
back  to  draw.    All  went  well ;  although  the  shooting  season 
(as  the  English  please  t^  call  it)  was  long  since  over,  we 
took  frequent  walks  with  guns,  and  a  few  individuals  were 
the  sufferers  from  my  anxiety  to  see  their  bills,  and  eyes, 
and  feathers;  and  many  a  mile  did  I  race  over  the  moors 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


227 


to  get  them.  More  or  less  company  came  daily  to  see 
my  drawings,  and  I  finished  a  drawing  for  Mr.  Selby  of 
three  birds,  a  Lapwing  for  Mrs.  Selby,  who  drew  fully 
as  well  as  I  did,  and  who  is  now  imitating  my  style,  and 
to  whom  I  have  given  some  lessons.  Also  I  finished  a 
small  picture  in  oil  for  the  charmmg  elder  daughter 
Louise ;  the  others  are  Jane  and  Fanny.  So  much  at  home 
did  we  become  that  the  children  came  about  me  as  freely 
as  if  I  had  long  known  them ;  I  was  delighted  at  this,  for 
to  me  to  have  familiar  intercourse  with  children,  the  most 
interesting  of  beings,  is  one  of  my  greatest  enjoyments, 
and  my  time  here  was  as  happy  as  at  Green  Bank ;  I  can 
say  no  more.  The  estate  is  well  situated,  highly  orna- 
mented, stocked  with  an  immensity  of  game  of  the  country, 
and  trout  abound  in  the  little  rivulets  that  tumble  from 
rock  to  rock  towards  the  northern  ocean.  To-morrow  I 
leave  this  with  Captain  Mitford  for  his  country  seat. 

Mitford  Castle,  near  Morpeth^  Northumberland,  April  11, 
1827.  I  rose  as  early  as  usual,  and  not  to  disturb  my 
kind  friends,  I  marched  down  the  staircase  in  my  stock- 
ings, as  I  often  do  where  the  family  are  not  quite  such 
early  risers;  instead  of  opening  the  hall  door  I  sat  down 
in  the  study,  and  outlined  a  Lapwing,  in  an  extremely 
difficult  position,  for  my  friend  Selby,  and  did  not  go 
on  my  walk  until  the  servants  made  their  appearance, 
and  then  I  pushed  off  to  the  garden  and  the  woods  to 
collect  violets.  I  felt  quite  happy,  the  fragrance  of  the 
air  seemed  equal  to  that  of  the  little  blue  flowers  wMch 
I  gathered.  We  breakfasted,  and  at  ten  o'clock  I  bid 
farewell  to  Mrs.  Selby;  good,  amiable  lady,  how  often 
she  repeated  her  invitation  to  me  to  come  and  spend 
a  goodly  time  with  them.  Mr.  Selby  and  the  children 
walked  down  to  the  lodge  with  the  captain  and  me,  and 
having  reached  the  place  too  early  we  walked  about  the 
woods  awhile.  The  parting  moment  came  at  last,  all  too 
soon,  our  baggage  was  put  on  the  top  of  the  "  Dart,"  an 


228 


AUDUBON 


opposition   coach,  and  away  we  rolled.     My  good  com- 
panion Captain  Mitford   kept  my  spirits  in  better  plight 
than  they  would  otherwise  have   been,  by  his  animated 
conversation  about  game,  fishing,  America,  etc.,  and  after 
a  ride  of  about  twelve  miles  we  entered  the  small  village 
of  Alnwick,  commanded  by  the  fine  castle  of  the  Duke 
of  Northumberland.     Having  to  change  horses  and  wait 
two  hours,  we  took  a  walk,  and  visited  the  interior  of  that 
ancient   mass  of  buildings,  the  whole  being  deserted  at 
present,  the    Duke    absent.     I  saw  the  armory,  the  dun- 
geons, the  place  for  racking  prisoners,  but  the  grotesque 
figures  of  stone  standing  in  all  sorts  of  attitudes,  defensive 
and  offensive^  all  round  the  top  of  the  turrets  and  bastions, 
struck  me  most.     They  looked  as  if  about  to  move,  or  to 
take  great  leaps  to  the  ground,  to  cut  our  throats.     This 
castle  covers  five  acres  of  ground,  is  elevated,  and  therefore 
in  every  direction  are  good  views  of  the  country.     From 
it  I  saw  the  cross  put  up  in  memory  of  King  Malcolm 
killed  by  Hammond.     At  two  precisely  (for  in  England 
and    Scotland  coaches   start  with   great  punctuality)  we 
were  again  en  route.     We  passed  over  the  Aln  River,  a 
very  pretty   little    streamlet,  and    reached    Felton,  where 
we   changed   horses.     The   whole  extent   of  country  we 
passed  this  day  was  destitute  of  woods,  and  looked  to  me 
very  barren.     We  saw  little  game ;  about  five  we  arrived 
within  two  miles    of  Morpeth,  where    the   captain  and  I 
alighted;  we  walked  to  a  pretty  little  vale  and  the  ruins 
of  the  old  castle  lay  before  us,  still  doomed  to  moulder 
more,    and  walking   on   reachec'i    the    confluence   of   two 
small,  pretty   streams    from   wh'ch   originated   the   name 
of  my  friend's  ancestors,  Meetingford.     We  reached  the 
house,  and  having   heard   of  his  brother's    indisposition, 
the  captain  and  I  entered  quietly,  and  I  was  presented  to 
the  owner  of  the  hall.    I  saw  before  me  a  thin,  pale,  emaci- 
ated being  who  begged  I  would  go  to  him,  as  he  could 
not  rise.     I   shook  his  withered  hand   and   received  his 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


229 


kind  welcome.     During  the  evening  I  had  ample  oppor- 
tunity to  observe  how  clever  and   scientific  he  was,  and 
regretted   the  more    his    frail    body.     He  was  extremely 
anxious  to  see  my  drawings,  and  he  examined  them  more 
closely  than  I  can  ever  remember  any  one  to  have  done 
before,  and  was  so  well   acquainted   with    good    drawing 
that  I  felt  afraid  to   turn  them   over   for   his  inspection. 
After  looking  at   probably  a  hundred  without  saying  a 
single  word,  he    exclaimed    suddenly:    "They  are  truly 
beautiful ;  our  King  ought  to  purchase  them,  they  are  too 
good  to  belong  to  a  single  individual."      We  talked  much 
on  subjects   of  natural   history,   and  he  told  me  that  he 
made  it  a  rule  that  not  a  gun  was  ever  fired  during  the 
breeding   season    on    any    part    of   his    beautiful    estate; 
he   delighted   to    see    the    charming   creatures  enjoy    life 
and  pleasure  without  any  annoyance.     Rooks,  Jackdaws, 
Wood-Pigeons,    and    Starlings  were   flying    in    hundreds 
about  the  ruined  castle.     We  sat  up  till  after  twelve,  when 
hot  water  and  spirits  were  produced,  after  which  we  said 
good-night;    but  I  needed  nothing  to  make  me  sleep,  for 
in  five  minutes  after  I  lay  down  I  was  —  I  know  not  where. 
April  13.     I  am  now  at  last  where  the  famous   Bewick 
produced  his  handsome  and  valuable  work  on  the  birds  of 
England.     It  is  a  dirty-looking  place,  this  Newcastle,  and 
I  do  not  know  if  it  will  prove  at  all  pleasant.     This  morn- 
ing early  the  captain  and  myself  took  a  good  ramble  about 
Mitford  Hall  grounds ;  saw  the  rookery,  the  ruins  of  the 
castle,  and  walked   some  way  along  the  little   river  front. 
We  breakfasted  about  ten  with  his  brother,  who  wished  to 
see   my  drawings  by  daylight.     Afterwards  my  baggage 
was  taken   to  Morpeth,   and   the    captain    and  I    walked 
thither  about  twelve.     Our  way  was  along  a  pretty  little 
stream  called  the  Wansbeck,  but  the  weather  changed  and 
the  rain  assured  me  that  none  of  the  persons  we  expected 
to  see  in  the  village  would  come,  on  this  account,  and  I  was 
not  mistaken.     At  half-past  four  I  mounted  the  coach  for 


230 


A  UDUnON 


':'  m 


this  place,  and  not  an  object  of  interest  presented  itself  in 
the  journey  of  thirteen  miles. 

Nc^vcastle-upon-TynCy  April  13.     At  ten  o'clock   I  left 
the  inn,  having  had  a  very  indiftcrent  breakfast,  served  on 
dirty  plates  ;  therefore  I  would  not  recommend  the  "  Rose 
and  Crown,"  or  the  hostess,  to  any  friend  of  mine.     Yet 
my  bed  was  quite  comfortable,  and    my  sleep  agreeably 
disturbed  about  one  hour  before  day  by  some  delightful 
music  on  the  bugle.     I  often,  even  before  this,  have  had  a 
wish  to  be  a  performer  on  this  instrument,  so  sure  I  am 
that  our  grand  forests  and  rivers  would  re-echo  its  sonorous 
sounds  with  fine  effect.     I  passed  through  many  streets, 
but  what  a  shabby  appearance  this  Newcastle-upon-Tyne 
has,  after  a  residence  of  nearly  six  months  in  the  beautiful 
city  of  Edinburgh.     All  seems  dark  and  smoky,  indeed  I 
conceive  myself  once  more  in  Manchester.     The  cries  of 
fish,  milk,  and  vegetables,  were  all  different,  and  I  looked 
in  vain  for  the  rosy  cheeks  of  the  Highlanders.      I  had 
letters  to  the  members  of  the  Johnson  family,  given  me  by 
Captain  Mitford,  and  therefore  went  to  St.  James  Square, 
where  I  delivered  them,  and  was  at  once  received  by  a  tall, 
fine-looking  young  gentleman,  who  asked    me   if   I    had 
breakfasted.      On  being  answered  in  the  affirmative,  he 
requested  me  to  excuse  him  till  he  had  finished  his,  and 
I    sat   opposite  the  fire  thinking   about  the  curious  pil- 
grimage I  had  now  before  me.     Will  the  result  repay  the 
exertions?    Alas!  it  is  quite  impossible  for  me  to  say,  but 
that  I  shall  carry  the  plan  out  in  all  its  parte'   is  certain 
unless  life  departs,  and  then  I  must  hope  that  our  Victor 
will  fall   into  my  place  and  accomplish  my  desires,  with 
John's  help  to  draw  the  birds,  which  he  already  does  well. 
Mr.  Edward  Johnson  soon  re-entered,  bringing  with  him 
Mr.  John  A  damson,  secretary  to  the  Literary  and  Philoso- 
phical Society  of  this  place,     I  presented  the  letter  for  him 
from  Mr.  Selby,  but  I  saw  at  once  that  he  knew  me  by 
name.     Soon  after  he  very  kindly  aided  me  to  find  suit- 


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231 


able  lodgings,  which  I  did  in  Collingwood  Street.  We 
ihcii  walked  to  Mr.  Bewick's,  the  engraver,  son  of  the 
famous  man,  and  happily  met  him.  lie  is  a  curious-look- 
ing man  ;  his  head  and  shoulders  are  both  broad,  but  his 
keen,  penetrating  eyes  proved  that  Nature  had  stamped 
him  for  some  use  in  this  world.  I  gave  him  the  letters  I 
had  for  him,  and  appointed  a  time  to  call  on  his  father.  I 
again  suffered  myself  to  be  imposed  upon  when  I  paid  my 
bill  at  the  inn  on  removing  to  my  lodgings,  and  thought  of 
Gil  Bias  of  Santillane.  Five  persons  called  to  see  my 
drawings  this  afternoon,  and  I  received  a  note  from  Mr. 
Bewick  inviting  me  to  tea  at  six ;  so  I  shall  see  and  talk 
with  the  wonderful  man.  I  call  him  wonderful  because  I 
am  sincerely  of  the  opinion  that  his  work  on  wood  is 
superior  to  anything  ever  attempted  in  ornithology.  It  is 
now  near  eleven  at  night.  Robert  Bewick  (the  son)  called 
for  me  about  six,  and  we  proceeded  to  his  father's  house. 
On  our  way  I  saw  an  ancient  church  with  a  remarkably 
beautiful  Lantcrne  at  top,  St.  Nicholas'  Church  I  was  told, 
then  we  passed  over  the  Tyne,  on  a  fine  strong  bridge  of 
stone,  with  several  arches,  I  think  six  or  seven.  This  is 
distant  from  the  sea,  and  I  must  say  that  the  Tyne  here  is 
the  only  stream  I  have  yet  seen  since  my  landing  resem- 
bling at  all  a  river.  It  is  about  as  large  as  Bayou  Sara 
opposite  the  Beech  Woods,  when  full.  I  saw  some  of  the 
boats  used  in  carrying  coals  down  the  stream;  they  are 
almost  of  oval  shape,  and  are  managed  with  long,  sweeping 
oars,  and  stcerers  much  like  our  flat-boats  on  the  Ohio. 
My  companion  did  not  talk  much;  he  is  more  an  acting 
man  than  a  talker,  and  I  did  not  dislike  him  for  that. 
After  ascending  a  long  road  or  lane,  we  arrived  at  Bewick's 
dwelling,  and  I  was  taken  at  once  to  where  he  was  at  work, 
and  saw  the  man  himself.  He  came  to  me  and  welcomed 
me  with  a  hearty  shake  of  the  hand,  and  took  off  for  a 
moment  his  half-clean  cotton  night-cap  tinged  with  the 
smoke  of  the  place.     He  is  tall,  stout,  has  a  very  large 


232 


AUDUBON 


head,  and  his  eyes  are  further  apart  than  those  of  any  man 
I   remember  just  now.     A  complete  Englishman,  full  of 
life  and   energy  though  now  seventy-four,  very  witty  and 
clever,  better  acquainted  with  America  than  most  of  his 
countrymen,  and  an  honor  to  England.     Having   shown 
me  the  work  he  was  at,  a  smill  vignette  cut  on  a  block  of 
box-wood  not  more  than  three  by  two  inches,  representing 
a  dog  frightened  during  the  night  by  false  appearances  of 
men  formed  by  curious  roots  and  branches  of  trees,  rocks, 
etc.,  he  took  me  upstairs  and  introduced  me  to  his  three 
daughters  —  all  tall,  and  two  of  them  with  extremely  fine 
figures  ;  they  were  desirous  to  make  my  visit  an  agreeable 
one  and   most  certainly  succeeded.     I  met  there  a  Mr. 
Goud,  and  saw  from  his  pencil  a  perfect  portrait  of  Thomas 
Bewick,  a  miniature,  full-length,  in  oil,  highly  finished,  well 
drawn  and  composed.     The  old  gentleman  and  I  stuck  to 
each  other;   he  talked  of  my  drawings,  and  I  of  his  wood- 
cuts, till  we  liked  each  other  very  much.     Now  and  then 
he  would  take  off  his  cotton  cap,  but  the  moment  he  be- 
came animated  with  the  conversation  the  cap  was  on,  yet 
almost  off,  for  he  had  stuck  it  on  as  if  by  magic.     His  eyes 
sparkled,  his  face  was  very  expressive,  and  I  enjoyed  him 
much  more,  I  am  sure,  than  he  supposed.     He  had  heard 
of  my  drawings  and   promised    to   call   early  to-morrow 
morning  with  his  daughters  and  some  friends.     I  did  not 
forget  dear  John's  wish  to  possess  a  copy  of  his  work  on 
quadrupeds,  and  having  asked  where  I  could  procure  one, 
he   answered  "  Here."      After   coffee   and   tea  had   been 
served,  young  Bewick,  to  please  me,  brought  a  bagpipe 
of  a  new  construction,   called   a  "  Durham,"  and  played 
simple,  nice  Scotch  and  English  airs  with  peculiar  taste; 
the    instrument  sounded  like  a  hautboy.     Soon  after  ten 
the  company  broke   up,   and  we  walked  into   Newcastle. 
The   streets   were    desolate,    and    their    crookedness   and 
narrowness  made  me  feel  the   more  the   beauty  of  fair 
Edinburgh. 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


233 


April  l.'f.  The  weather  is  now  becoming  tolerable  and 
sprint^  is  approaching.  The  Swallows  glide  past  my  win- 
dows, and  the  Larks  are  heard  across  the  Tyne.  Thomas 
Bewick,  his  whole  family,  and  about  a  hundred  others  have 
kept  me  busy  exhibiting  drawings.  Mr.  Hewick  expressed 
himself  as  perfectly  astounded  at  the  boldness  of  my  under- 
taking. I  am  to  dine  with  him  to-morrow,  Mr.  Adamson 
to-day,  and  Mr.  Johnson  on  Wednesday  if  I  do  not  go  on 
to  York  that  day. 

April  IT).  Mr.  Adamson  called  for  me  at  church  time, 
and  we  proceeded  a  short  distance  and  entered  St. 
Nicholas'  church.  He  ordered  an  officer  to  take  me 
to  what  he  called  t/u;  mansion  house  and  I  was  led  along 
the  aisles  to  a  place  enclosed  by  an  iron  railing  and 
showed  a  seat.  In  looking  about  me  I  saw  a  large 
organ  over  the  door  I  had  entered,  and  in  front  of  this 
were  seated  many  children,  the  lasses  in  white,  the  lads 
in  blue.  An  immense  painting  of  the  Lord's  Supper 
filled  the  end  opposite  the  entrance,  and  the  large  Gothic 
windows  were  brilliant  with  highly  colored  glass.  A  few 
minutes  passed,  when  a  long  train  of  office  bearers  and  the 
magistrates  of  the  town,  headed  by  the  mayor,  came  in  pro- 
cession and  entered  the  mansion  house  also ;  a  gentleman 
at  my  elbow  rose  and  bowed  to  these  and  I  followed  his 
example;  I  discovered  then  that  I  was  seated  in  the  most 
honorable  place.  The  service  and  sermon  were  long  and 
tedious ;  often  to  myself  I  said,  "  Why  is  not  Sydney  Smith 
here?"  Being  in  church  I  sat  patiently,  but  I  must  say  I 
thought  the  priest  uncommonly  stupid.  Home  to  lunch- 
eon and  afterwards  went  to  Heath,  the  painter,^  who  with 
his  wife  received  me  with  extreme  kindness.  He  showed 
me  many  sketches,  a  number  of  which  were  humorous. 
He  likes  Newcastle  better  than  Edinburgh,  and  I  would 
not  give  an  hour  at  Edinburgh,  especially  were  I  with 
friend   Lizars,  his   wife,  and    sister,  for  a  year   here.     So 

^  Possibly  Charles  Heath,  engraver,  1 784-1848. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


1-25      1.4       1.6 

=     =^^==    — s 

«« 

6" 

► 

m 


¥a 


/a 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


33  WIST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  M5B0 

(716)  S73-4S03 


I':      ^• 


I-:- 


234 


AUDUBON 


much  for  difference  of  taste.  —  I  have  just  returned  from 
old  Bewick's.  We  had  a  great  deal  of  conversation,  all 
tending  towards  Natural  History ;  other  guests  came  in  as 
the  evening  fell,  and  politics  and  religion  were  touched 
upon.  Whilst  this  was  going  on  old  Bewick  sat  silent 
chewing  his  tobacco;  the  son,  too,  remained  quiet,  but 
the  eldest  daughter,  who  sat  next  to  me,  was  very  interest- 
ing, and  to  my  surprise  resembles  my  kind  friend  Hannah 
Rathbone  so  much,  that  I  frequently  felt  as  if  Miss  Hannah, 
with  her  black  eyes  a  id  slender  figure,  were  beside  me.  I 
was  invited  to  breal.fast  to-morrow  at  eight  with  Mr. 
Bewick  to  see  the  old  gentleman  at  work. 

April  16.     I  breakfasted  with  old  Bewick  this  morning 
quite  sans  cMmonie,  and  then  the  old  man  set  to  work  to 
show  me  how  simple  it  was  to  ait  wood!  But  cutting  wood 
as  he  did  is  no  joke ;  he  did  it  with  as  much  ease  as  I  can 
feather  a  bird ;  he  made  all  his  tools,  which  are  delicate 
and  very  beautiful,  and  his  artist  shop  was  clean  and  at- 
tractive.    Later  I  went  with  Mr.  Plummer,  the  officiating 
American  consul  at  this  place,  to  the  court-rooms,  and 
Merchant  Coffee  House,  also  to  a  new  fish  market,  small 
and  of  a  half-moon  form,  contiguous  to  the  river,  that  I 
have  forgotten  to  say  is  as  dirty  and  muddy  as  an  alligator 
hole.     The  coal  boats  were  moving  down  by  hundreds, 
with  only  one  oar  and  a  steerer,  to  each  of  which  I  saw 
three  men.     We  then  went  to  the  Literary  and  Philosoph- 
ical Society  rooms ;  the  library  is  a  fine,  large  room  with 
many  books — the  museum  small,  but  in  neat  order,  and 
well  supplied  with  British  specimens.     Since  then  I  have 
been  shov/ing  my  drawings  to  at  least  two  hundred  persons 
who  called  at  my  lodgings,     I  was  especially  struck  with 
a  young  lady  who  came  with  her  brother.     I  saw  from  my 
window  a  groom  walking  three  fine  horses  to  and  fro,  and 
almost  immediately  the  lady  and  gentleman  entered,  whip 
in  hand,  and  spurred  like  fighting-cocks ;  the  lady,  with  a 
beaver  and  black  silk  neckerchief,  came  in  first  and  alone, 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


235 


holding  up  with  both  hands  her  voluminous  blue  riding- 
habit,  and  with  a  ton  very  unbecoming  her  fine  eyes  and 
sweet  face.  She  bowed  carelessly,  and  said :  "  Compli- 
ments, sir ;  "  and  perceiving  how  much  value  she  put  on 
herself,  I  gave  her  the  best  seat  in  the  room.  For  some 
time  she  sat  without  a  word ;  when  her  brother  began  to 
put  questions,  however,  she  did  also,  and  so  fast  and  so 
searchingly  that  I  thought  them  Envoies  Extraordinaires 
from  either  Temminck  or  Cuvier.  Mr.  Adamson,  who  sat 
by  all  the  time,  praised  me,  when  they  had  gone,  for  my 
patience,  and  took  me  home  to  dine  with  him  en  famille. 
A  person  (a  glazier,  I  suppose),  after  seeing  about  a 
hundred  pictures,  asked  me  if  I  did  not  want  glas,  and 
frames  for  them.  How  I  wish  I  was  in  America's  dark 
woods,  admiring  God's  works  in  all  their  beautiful  ways. 

April  17.  Whilst  I  was  lying  awake  this  morning  wait- 
ing for  it  to  get  light,  I  presently  recollected  I  was  in 
Newcastle-upon-Tyne,  and  recalled  the  name  of  Smollett, 
no  mean  man,  by  the  bye,  and  remembered  his  eulogium 
of  the  extraordinary  fine  view  he  obtained  when  travelling 
on  foot  from  London  to  this  place,  looking  up  the  Tyne 
from  Isbet  Hill,  and  I  said,  "  If  Smollett  admired  the 
prospect,  I  can  too,"  and  leaped  from  my  bed  as  a  hare 
from  his  form  on  newly  ploughed  ground  at  the  sound 
of  the  sportsman's  bugle,  or  the  sight  of  the  swift  grey- 
hound. I  ran  downstairs,  out-of-doors,  and  over  the 
Tyne,  as  if  indeed  a  pack  of  jackals  had  been  after  me. 
Two  miles  is  nothing  to  me,  and  I  ascended  the  hill 
where  poor  Isbet,  deluded  by  a  wretched  woman,  for  her 
sake  robbed  the  mail,  and  afterwards  suffered  death  on 
a  gibbet;  and  saw  —  the  sea!  Far  and  wide  it  extended  ; 
the  Tyne  led  to  it,  with  its  many  boats  with  their  coaly 
burdens.  Up  the  river  the  view  was  indeed  enchanting ; 
the  undulating  meadows  sloped  gently  to  the  water's  edge 
on  either  side,  and  the  Larks  that  sprang  up  before  me, 
welcoming  the  sun's  rise,  animated  my  thoughts  so  much 


.  k 


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236 


AUDUBON 


\% 


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that  I  felt  tears  trickling  down  my  cheeks  as  I  gave  praise 
to  the  God  who  gave  Hfe  to  all  these  in  a  day.     There  was 
a  dew  on  the  ground,  the  bees  were  gathering  honey  from 
the  tiniest  flowerets,  and  here  and  there  the  Blackbird  so 
shy  sought  for  a  fibrous  root  to  entwine  his  solid  nest  of 
clay.     Lapwings,  like  butterflies  of  a  larger  size,  passed 
wheeling  and  tumbling  over  me  through  the  air,  and  had 
not  the  dense  smoke  from  a  thousand  engines  disturbed 
the  peaceful  harmony  of  Nature,  I  might  have  been  there 
still,  longing  for  my  Lucy  to  partake  of  the  pleasure  with 
me.     But  the  smoke  recalled  me  to  my  work,  and  I  turned 
towards   Newcastle.     So    are  all   transient   pleasures   fol- 
lowed   by   sorrows,   except    those    emanating    from   the 
adoration  of  the  Supreme  Being.     It  was  still  far  from 
breakfast  time ;  I  recrossed  the  Tyne  and  ascended  the 
east  bank  for  a  couple  of  miles  before  returning  to  my 
lodgings.      The   morning  afterward  was   spent   as  usual. 
I  mean,  holding  up  drawings  to  the  company  that  came 
in  good  numbers.     Morning  here  is  the  time  from  ten  to 
five,  and  I  am  told  that  in  London  it  sometimes  lengthens 
to  eight  of  the  evening  as  we  term  it.     Among  these  vis- 
itors was  a  Mr.  Donkin,  who  remained  alone  with  me  when 
the  others  had  left,  and  we  had  some  conversation ;  he  is 
an  advocate,  or,   as  I  would  call  it,  a   chancellor.      He 
asked  me  to  take  a  bachelor's  dinner  with  him  at  five;  I 
accepted,  and  he  then  proposed  we  should  drive  out  and 
see  a  house  he  was  building  two  miles  in  the  country.    I 
again  found  myself  among  the  rolling  hills,  and  we  soon 
reached    his   place.     I    found   a   beautiful,  low   house  of 
stone,  erected    in   the    simplest   style    imaginable,  but  so 
well   arranged  and  so  convenient  that  I  felt  satisfied  he 
was  a  man  of  taste  as  well  as  wealth.     Garden,  grounds, 
all  was  in  perfect  harmony,  and  the  distant  views  up  and 
down  the   river,  the   fine  woods  and   castle,  all  cime  in 
place,  —  not  to  satiate  the  eye,  but  to  induce  it  to  search 
for  further  beauties.     On  returning  to  town  Mr.  Donkin 


'8:8, 


«!"T 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


237 


showed  me  the  old  mansion  where  poor  Charles  the  First 
was  delivered  up  to  be  beheaded.  He  could  have  escaped 
through  a  conduit  to  the  river,  where  a  boat  was  waiting, 
but  the  conduit  was  all  darkness  and  hin  heart  failed  him. 
Now  I  should  say  that  he  had  no  heart,  and  v/as  very  unfit 
for  a  king.  At  Mr.  Donkin's  house  I  was  presented  to 
his  partners,  and  we  had  a  good  dinner;  the  conversation 
ran  much  on  politics,  and  they  supported  the  King  and  Mr. 
Canning.  I  left  early,  as  I  had  promised  to  take  a  cup  of 
tea  with  old  Bewick.  The  old  gentleman  was  seated  as 
usual  with  his  night-cap  on,  and  his  tobacco  pouch  in  one 
hand  ready  to  open ;  his  countenance  beamed  with  pleas- 
ure as  I  shook  hands  with  him.  "  I  could  not  bear  the 
idea  of  your  going  off  without  telling  you  in  written 
words  what  I  think  of  your  '  Birds  of  America; '  here  it  is 
in  black  and  white,  and  make  whatever  use  you  may  of 
it,  if  it  be  of  use  at  all,"  he  said,  and  put  an  unsealed 
letter  in  my  hand.  We  chatted  away  on  natural-history 
subjects,  and  he  would  now  and  then  exclaim :  "  Oh  that 
I  was  young ^  again!  I  would  go  to  America.  What  a 
country  it  will  be."  "  It  is  now,  Mr.  Bewick,"  I  would 
retort,  and  then  we  went  on.  The  young  ladies  enjoyed 
the  sight  and  remarked  that  for  years  their  father  had 
not  had  such  a  flow  of  spirits. 

April  19.  This  morning  I  paid  a  visit  of  farewell  to  Mr. 
Bewick  and  his  family;  as  we  parted  he  held  my  hand 
closely  and  repeated  three  times,  "  God  preserve  you." 
I  looked  at  him  in  such  a  manner  that  I  am  sure  he  under- 
stood I  could  not  speak.  I  walked  slowly  down  the  hilly 
lane,  and  thought  of  the  intrinsic  value  of  this  man  to  the 
world,  and  compared  him  with  Sir  Walter  Scott.  The 
latter  will  be  forever  the  most  eminent  in  station,  being 
undoubtedly  the  most  learned  and  most  brilliant  of  the 
two;  but  Thomas   Bewick  is  a   son  of  Nature.     Nature 

'  Thomas  Bewick  was  at  this  time  nearly  seventy-four.  He  died  Nov.  8t 
1828,  being  then  past  seventy-five. 


m 


ii 


tl :; 


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238 


AUDUBON 


alone  has  reared  him  under  her  peaceful  care,  and  he  in 
gratitu(te  of  heart  has  copied  one  department  of  her  works 
that  must  stand  unrivalled  forever ;  I  say  "  forever  "  because 
imitators  have  only  a  share  of  real  merit,  compared  with  in- 
ventors, and  Thomas  Bewick  is  an  inventor,  and  the  first 
wood-cutter  in  the  world  !  These  words, "  first  wood-cutter " 
would,  1  dare  say,  raise  the  ire  of  many  of  our  hearty  squat- 
ters, who,  no  doubt,  on  hearing  me  express  myself  so 
strongly,  would  take  the  axe,  and  fell  down  an  enormous  tree 
whilst  talking  about  it ;  but  the  moment  I  would  explain  to 
them  that  each  of  their  chips  would  produce  under  his  chisel 
a  mass  of  beauties,  the  good  fellows  would  respect  him  quite 
as  much  as  I  do.  My  room  was  filled  all  day  with  people 
to  see  my  works  and  me,  whom  some  one  had  said  resem- 
bled in  physiognomy  Napoleon  of  France.  Strange  simile 
this,  but  I  care  not  whom  I  resemble,  if  it  be  only  in  looks, 
if  my  heart  preserves  the  love  of  the  truth. 

Saturday,  April  21.  I  am  tired  out  holding  up  draw- 
ings, I  may  say,  all  day;  but  have  been  rewarded  by  an 
addition  of  five  subscribers  to  my  work.  Am  ofif  to-morrow 
to  York.     God  bless  thee,  my  Lucy. 

York,  Sunday,  April  22,  1827.  Left  Newcastle  at  eight; 
the  weather  cold  and  disagreeable,  still  I  preferred  a  seat 
on  top  to  view  the  country.  Passed  through  Durham,  a 
pretty  little  town  with  a  handsome  castle  and  cathedral, 
planted  on  an  elevated  peninsula  formed  by  a  turn  of  the 
river  Wear,  and  may  be  seen  for  many  miles.  It  is  a  roll- 
ing country,  and  the  river  wound  about  among  the  hills; 
we  crossed  it  three  times  on  stone  bridges.  Darlington, 
where  we  changed  horses,  is  a  neat,  small  place,  supported 
by  a  set  of  very  industrious  Quakers;  much  table  linen 
is  n  anufactured  here.  As  we  approached  York  the  wood? 
became  richer  and  handsomer,  and  trees  were  dispersed 
all  over  the  country ;  it  looked  once  more  like  England, 
and  the  hedges  reminded  me  of  those  about  "  Green  Bank." 
They  were  larger  and  less  trimmed  than  in  Scotland.    I 


■P" 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


239 


saw  York  Minster  six  or  seven  miles  before  reaching  the 
town,  that  is  entered  by  old  gates.  The  streets  are  disgust- 
ingly crooked  and  narrow,  and  crossed  like  the  burrows  of 
a  rabbit-warren.  I  was  put  down  at  the  Black  Swan. 
Though  the  coach  was  full,  not  a  word  had  been  spoken 
except  an  occasional  oath  at  the  weather,  which  was  indeed 
very  cold ;  and  I,  with  all  the  other  passengers,  went  at 
once  to  the  fires.  Anxious  to  find  lodgings  not  at  the 
Black  Swan,  I  went  to  Rev.  Wm.  Turner,  son  of  a  gen- 
tleman I  had  met  at  Newcastle,  for  information.  Hjs 
father  had  prepared  him  for  my  visit  at  my  request,  and  I 
was  soon  installed  at  Mrs.  Pulleyn's  in  Blake  Street.  My 
present  landlady's  weight,  in  ratio  with  that  of  her  husband, 
is  as  one  pound  avoirdupois  to  one  ounce  apothecary ! 
She  looks  like  a  round  of  beef,  he  like  a  farthing  candle. 
Oh  that  I  were  in  Louisiana,  strolling  about  the  woods,  look- 
ing in  the  gigantic  poplars  for  new  birds  and  new  flowers ! 

April  23,  Monday.  The  weather  looked  more  like  ap- 
proaching winter  than  spring;  indeed  snow  fell  at  short 
intervals,  and  it  rained,  and  was  extremely  cold  and  misty. 
Nothwithstanding  the  disagreeable  temperature,  I  have 
walked  a  good  deal.  I  delivered  my  letters  as  early  as 
propriety  would  allow,  but  found  no  one  in ;  at  least  I  was 
told  so,  for  beyond  that  I  cannot  say  with  any  degree  of 
accuracy  I  fear.  The  Rev.  Mr.  Turner  called  with  the 
curator  of  the  Museum,  to  whom  I  showed  some  drawings. 
After  my  dinner,  eaten  so/us,  I  went  out  again ;  the  Minster 
is  undoubtedly  the  finest  piece  of  ancient  architecture  I 
have  seen  since  I  was  in  France,  if  my  recollection  serves 
me.  I  walked  round  and  round  it  for  a  long  time,  examin- 
ing its  height,  form,  composition,  and  details,  until  my  neck 
ached.  The  details  are  wonderful  indeed,  —  all  cut  of  the 
same  stone  that  forms  the  mass  out\vardly.  Leaving  it 
and  going  without  caring  about  my  course,  I  tbund  myself 
in  front  of  an  ancient  castle,*  standing  on  a  mound, 
»  Probably  St.  Mary's  Abbey. 


w 

4^' 


;?i 


240 


AUDUBON 


til  • : 


covered  with  dark  ivy,  fissured  by  time  and  menacing  its 
neighborhood  with  an  appearance  of  all  tumbling  down  at 
no  remote  period.  I  turned  east  and  came  to  a  pretty 
little  stream  called  the  Ouse,  over  which  I  threw  several 
pebbles  by  way  of  exercise.  On  the  west  bank  I  found  a 
fine  walk,  planted  with  the  only  trees  of  size  I  have  seen  in 
this  country ;  it  extended  about  half  a  mile.  Looking  up 
the  stream  a  bridge  of  fine  stone  is  seen,  and  on  the 
opposite  shores  many  steam  mills  were  in  operation.  I 
followed  down  this  mighty  stream  till  the  road  gave  out, 
and,  the  grass  being  very  wet  and  the  rain  falling  heavily, 
1  returned  to  my  rooms.  York  is  much  cleaner  than 
Newcastle,  and  I  remarked  more  Quakers ;  but  alas  !  how 
far  both  these  towns  are  below  fair  Edinburgh.  The 
houses  here  are  low,  covered  with  tiles,  and  sombre-look- 
ing. No  birds  have  I  seen  except  Jackdaws  and  Rooks. 
To  my  surprise  my  host  waited  upon  me  at  supper ;  when 
he  enters  my  room  I  think  of  Scroggins'  ghost.  I  have 
spent  my  evening  reading  "  Blackwood's  Magazine." 

April 24.  How  doleful  has  this  day  been  to  me!  It 
pleased  to  rain,  and  to  snow,  and  to  blow  cold  all  day. 
I  called  on  Mr.  Phillips,  the  curator  of  the  Museum,  and 
he  assured  me  that  the  society  was  too  poor  to  purchase 
my  work.  I  spent  the  evening  by  invitation  at  the  Rev. 
Wm.  Turner's  in  company  with  four  other  gentlemen. 
Politics  and  emancipation  were  the  chief  topics  of  conver- 
sation. How  much  more  good  would  the  English  do  by 
revising  their  own  intricate  laws,  and  improving  the  con- 
dition of  their  poor,  than  by  troubling  themselves  and  their 
distant  friends  with  what  does  not  concern  them.  I  feel 
nearly  determined  to  push  ofif  to-morrow,  and  yet  it  would 
not  do ;  I  may  be  wrong,  and  to-morrow  may  be  fairer  to 
me  in  every  way ;  but  this  "  hope  deferred "  is  a  very 
fatiguing  science  to  study.  I  could  never  make  up  my 
mind  to  live  and  die  in  England  whilst  the  sweet-scented 
jessamine   and   the   magnolias   flourish  so   purely  in  my 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


241 


native  land,  and  the  air  vibrates   with  the  songs  of  the 
sweet  birds. 

April  25.   I  went  out  of  the  house  pretty  soon  this  morn- 
ing; it  was  cold  and  blowing  a  strong  breeze.     I  pushed 
towards  the  river  with  an  idea  of  following  it  downwards 
two  hours  by  my  watch,  but  as  I  walked  along  I  saw  a 
large  flock  of  Starlings,  at  a  time  when  I  thought  all  birds 
were  paired,  and  watched  their  motions  for  some  time,  and 
thereby  drew  the  following  conclusion,  namely:   that  the 
bird  commonly  called  the  Meadow  Lark  with  us  is  more 
nearly  re'.ated  to  the  Starling  of  this  country  than  to  any 
other  bird.     I  was  particularly  surprised  that  a  low  note,  re- 
sembling the  noise  made  by  a  wheel  not  well  greased,  was 
precisely  the  same  in  both,  that  the  style  of  their  walk  and 
gait  was  also  precisely  alike,  and  that  in  short  flights  the 
movement  of  the  wings  had   the  same  tremulous  action 
before  they  alighted.     Later  I  had  visitors  to  see  my  pict- 
ures, possibly  fifty  or  more.     It  has  rained  and  snowed 
to-day,  and  I  feel  as  dull  as  a  Martin  surprised  by  the 
weather.     It  will   be  strange   if  York  gives  me  no   sub- 
scribers, when  I  had  eight  at  Newcastle.     Mr.  P called 

and  told  me  it  would  be  well  for  me  to  call  personally  on 
the  nobility  and  gentry  in  the  neighborhood  and  take 
some  drawings  with  me.  I  thanked  him,  but  told  him 
that  my  standing  in  society  did  not  admit  of  such  conduct, 
and  that  although  there  were  lords  in  England,  we  of 
American  blood  think  ourselves  their  equals.  He  laughed, 
and  said  I  was  not  as  much  of  a  Frenchman  as  I  looked. 

April  26.  I  have  just  returned  from  a  long  walk  out  of 
town,  on  the  road  toward  Newcastle.  The  evening  was 
calm,  and  the  sunset  clear.  At  such  an  hour  how  often  have 
I  walked  with  my  Lucy  along  the  banks  of  the  Schuylkill, 
Perkiomen  Creek,  the  Ohio  River,  or  through  the  fra- 
grant woods  of  Louisiana;  how  often  have  we  stopped 
short  to  admire  the  works  of  the  Creator ;  how  often  have 
we  been  delighted  at  hearing  the  musical  notes  of  the  timid 

VOL.   I. —  16 


,.-,»•   .«,,..,! 


1 1.*  'T' 


m 


■i 


m 


243 


AUDUBON 


Wood  Thrush,  that  appeared  to  give  her  farewell  melody 
to  the  disappearing  day  I  We  have  looked  at  the  glitter- 
ing fire-fly,  heard  the  Whip-poor-will,  and  seen  the  vigilant 
Owl  preparing  to  search  field  and  forest !  Here  the  scene 
was  not  quite  so  pleasing,  though  its  charms  brought  youth 
and  happiness  to  my  recollection.  One  or  two  Warblers 
perched  on  the  eglantine,  almost  blooming,  and  gave 
their  little  powers  full  vent.  The  shrill  notes  of  Thrushes 
(not  ours)  came  from  afar,  and  many  Rooks  with  loaded 
bills  were  making  fast  their  way  towards  the  nests  that 
contained  their  nearly  half-grown  ofiFspring.  The  cattle 
were  treading  heavily  towards  their  pens,  and  the  sheep 
gathered  to  the  lee  of  each  protecting  hedge.  To-day 
have  I  had  a  great  number  of  visitors,  and  three  subscribers. 

April  27.  A  long  walk  early,  and  then  many  visitors, 
Mr.  Vernon  ^  among  them,  who  subscribed  for  my  work 
All  sorts  of  people  come.  If  Matthews  the  comic  were  now 
and  then  to  present  himself  at  my  levees,  how  he  would  act 
the  scenes  over.  I  am  quite  worn  out ;  I  think  sometimes 
my  poor  arms  will  give  up  their  functions  before  I  secure 
five  hundred  subscribers. 

Saturday,  28th.  During  my  early  walk  along  the  Ouse 
I  saw  a  large  butterfly,  quite  new  to  me,  and  attempted  to 
procure  it  with  a  stroke  of  my  cane ;  but  as  I  whirled  it 
round,  off  went  the  scabbard  into  the  river,  more  than  half 
across,  and  I  stood  with  a  naked  small  sword  as  if  waiting 
for  a  duel.  I  would  have  swam  out  for  it,  but  that  there 
were  other  pedestrians ;  so  a  man  in  a  boat  brought  it  to 
me  for  sixpence.  I  have  had  a  great  deal  of  company,  and 
five  subscribers.  Mr.  Wright  took  me  all  over  the  Min- 
ster, and  also  on  the  roof.  We  had  a  good  spy-glass,  and 
I  had  an  astonishing  view  of  the  spacious  vales  that  sur- 
round the  tile-covered  city  of  York.  I  could  easily  follow 
the  old  walls  of  defence.  It  made  me  giddy  to  look  di- 
rectly down,  as  a  great  height  is  always  unpleasant  to  me. 

1  Mr.  Vernon  was  the  president  of  the  Philosophical  Society  of  York. 


r  r 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


243 


Now  I  have  packed  up,  paid  an  enormous  bill  to  my  land- 
lady.    I  expect  to  be  at  Leeds  to-morrow. 

Leeds,  Sunday,  April  28.  The  town  of  Leeds  is  much 
superior  to  anything  I  have  seen  since  Edinburgh,  and  I 
have  been  walking  till  I  feel  quite  exhausted.  I  break- 
fasted in  York  at  five  this  morning ;  the  coach  did  not 
start  till  six,  so  I  took  my  refreshing  walk  along  the  Ouse. 
The  weather  was  extremely  pleasant ;  I  rode  outside,  but 
the  scenery  was  little  varied,  almost  uniformly  level,  well 
cultivated,  but  poor  as  to  soil.  I  saw  some  "  game  "  as 
every  bird  is  called  here.  I  was  amused  to  see  the  great 
interest  which  was  excited  by  a  covey  of  Partridges,  What 
would  be  said  to  a  gang  of  Wild  Turkeys,  —  several  hundred 
trotting  along  a  sand-bar  of  the  Upper  Mississippi?  I 
reached  Leeds  at  half-past  nine,  distant  from  York,  I  be- 
lieve, twenty-six  miles.  I  found  lodgings  at  once  at  39 
Albion  Street,  and  then  started  with  my  letters. 

April  30.  Were  I  to  conclude  from  first  appearances  as 
to  the  amount  of  success  I  may  expect  here,  compared  with 
York,  by  the  difference  of  attention  paid  me  at  both  places 
so  soon  after  my  arrival,  I  should  certainly  expect  much 
more  here;  for  no  sooner  was  breakfast  over  than  Mr. 
Atkinson  called,  to  be  followed  by  Mr.  George  and  many 
others,  among  them  a  good  ornithologist,^  —  not  a  closet 
naturalist,  but  a  real  true-blue,  who  goes  out  at  night  and 
watches  Owls  and  Night-jars  and  Water-fowl  to  some  pur- 
pose, and  who  knows  more  about  these  things  than  any 
other  man  I  have  met  in  Europe.  This  evening  I  took  a 
long  walk  by  a  small  stream,  and  as  soon  as  out  of  sight 
undressed  and  took  a  dive  smack  across  the  creek ;  the  water 
was  so  extremely  cold  that  I  performed  the  same  feat  back 
again  and  dressed  in  a  hurry ;  my  flesh  was  already  quite 
purple.  Following  the  stream  I  found  some  gentlemen 
catching  minnows  with  as  much  anxiety  as  if  large  trout, 
playing  the  little  things  with  beautiful  lines  and  wheels. 

*  Mr.  John  Backhouse.  •  ' '      ''■' 


i 

y 


^^■^. 


^ 


! 


w 


is 


i 


244 


AUDUBON 


Parallel  to  this  stream  is  a  canal ;  the  adjacent  country 
is  rolling,  with  a  number  of  fine  country-seats.  I  wish  I 
had  some  one  to  go  to  in  the  evenings  like  friend  Lizars. 

May  ly  189,7.  This  is  the  day  on  which  last  year  I  left 
my  Lucy  and  my  boys  with  intention  to  sail  for  Europe. 
How  uncertain  my  hopes  at  that  time  were  as  to  the  final 
results  of  my  voyage,  —  about  to  leave  a  country  where 
most  of  my  life  had  been  spent  devoted  to  the  study  of 
Nature,  to  enter  one  wholly  unknown  to  me,  with'^nt  a 
friend,  nay,  not  an  acquaintance  in  it.  Until  I  reacned 
Edinburgh  I  despaired  of  success ;  the  publication  of  a 
work  of  enormous  expense,  and  the  length  of  time  it  must 
necessarily  take ;  to  accomplish  the  whole  has  been  suffi- 
cient to  keep  my  spirits  low,  I  assure  thee.  Now  I  feel  like 
beginning  a  New  Year.  My  work  is  about  to  be  known,  I 
have  made  a  number  of  valuable  and  kind  friends,  I  have 
been  received  by  men  of  science  on  friendly  terms,  and 
now  I  have  a  hope  of  success  if  I  continue  to  be  honest, 
industrious,  and  consistent.  My  pecuniary  means  are 
slender,  but  I  hope  to  keep  afloat,  for  my  tastes  are  simple; 
ifonlylcan  succeed  in  rendering  thee  and  our  sons  happy, 
not  a  moment  of  sorrow  or  discomfort  shall  I  regret. 

May  2.  Mr.  George  called  very  early,  and  said  that 
his  colleague,  the  Secretary  of  the  Literary  and  Philosophi- 
cal Society,  would  call  and  subscribe,  and  he  has  done  so. 
I  think  I  must  tell  thee  how  every  one  stares  when  they 
read  on  the  first  engraving  that  I  present  for  their  inspec- 
tion this  name :  "  The  Bonaparte  Fly-catcher,"  —  the  very 
bird  I  was  anxious  to  name  the  "  Rathbone  Fly-catcher," 
in  honor  of  my  excellent  friend  "  Lady  "  Rathbone,  but 
who  refused  to  accept  this  little  mark  of  my  gratitude.  I 
afterwards  meant  to  call  it  after  thee,  but  did  not,  because 
the  world  is  so  strangely  composed  just  now  that  I  feared 
it  would  be  thought  childish;  so  I  concluded  to  call  it 
after  my  friend  Charles  Bonaparte.  Every  one  is  struck 
by  the  name,  so  explanations  take  place,  and  the  good 


J 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


245 


people  of  England  will  know  him  as  a  great  naturalist,  and 
my  friend.  I  intend  to  name,  one  after  another,  every  one 
of  my  new  birds,  cither  for  some  naturalist  deserving  this 
honor,  or  through  a  wish  to  return  my  thanks  for  kindness 
rendered  me.     Many  persons  have  called,  qjiite   a  large 

party  at  one  time,  led  by  Lady  B .     I  am  sorry  to  say 

I  find  it  generally  more  difficult  to  please  this  class  of  per- 
sons than  others,  and  I  feel  in  consequence  more  reserved 
in  their  presence,  I  can  scarcely  say  why.  I  walked  out 
this  evening  to  see  Kirkstall  Abbey,  or  better  say  the 
ruins  of  that  ancient  edifice.  It  is  about  three  miles  out 
of  Leeds  and  is  worthy  the  attention  of  every  traveller.  It 
is  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  little  river  Ayre,  the  same 
I  bathed  in,  and  is  extremely  romantic  in  its  appearance, 
covered  with  ivy,  and  having  sizable  trees  about  and 
amongst  its  walls.  The  entrance  is  defended  by  a  board 
on  which  is  painted :  "  Whoever  enters  these  ruins,  or 
damages  them  in  the  least,  will  be  prosecuted  with  all  the 
rigor  of  the  law."  I  did  not  transgress,  and  soon  became 
very  cautious  of  my  steps,  for  immediately  after,  a  second 
board  assured  every  one  that  spring-guns  and  steel-traps  are 
about  the  gardens.  However,  no  entreaty  having  been  ex- 
pressed to  prevent  me  froqi  sketching  the  whole,  I  did  so 
on  the  back  of  one  of  my  cards  for  thee.  From  that  spot 
I  heard  a  Cuckoo  cry,  for  I  do  not,  like  the  English,  call  it 
singing.  I  attempted  to  approach  the  bird,  but  in  vain ;  I 
believe  I  might  be  more  successful  in  holding  a  large 
Alligator  by  the  tail.  Many  people  speak  in  raptures  of  the 
sweet  voice  of  the  Cuckoo,  and  the  same  people  tell  me  in 
cold  blood  that  we  have  no  birds  that  can  sing  in  America. 
I  wish  they  had  a  chance  to  judge  of  the  powers  of  the 
Mock-bird,  the  Red  Thrush,  the  Cat-bird,  the  Oriole,  the 
Indigo  Bunting,  and  even  the  Whip-poor-will.  What 
would  they  say  of  a  half-million  of  Robins  about  to  take 
their  departure  for  the  North,  making  our  woods  fairly 
tremble  with  melodious  harmony  ?     But  these  pleasures  are 


I1 


w^^ 


ImWt 


246 


AUDUBON 


not  to  be  enjoyed  in  manufacturing  towns  like  Leeds  and 
Manchester;  neither  can  any  one  praise  a  bird  who  sings 
by  tuition,  like  a  pupil  of  Mozart,  as  a  few  Linnets  and 
Starlings  do,  and  that  no  doubt  are  here  taken  as  the 
foundation  stone  of  the  singing  powers  allotted  to  European 
birds  generally.  Well,  is  not  this  a  long  digression  for  thee? 
I  dare  say  thou  art  fatigued  enough  at  it,  and  so  am  L 

Alay  d.  Until  two  o'clock  this  day  I  had  only  one 
visitor,  Mr.  John  Marshall,  a  member  of  Parliament  to  whom 
I  had  a  letter ;  he  told  me  he  knew  nothing  at  all  about 
birds,  but  most  generously  subscribed,  because,  he  told  me, 
it  was  such  a  work  as  every  one  ought  to  possess,  and  to 
encourage  enterprise.  This  evening  I  dined  with  the 
Messrs.  Uavy,  my  old  friends  of  Mill  Grove ;  the  father,  who 
for  many  months  has  not  left  his  bed-chamber,  desired  to 
see  me.  We  had  not  met  since  18 10,  but  he  looked  as  fresh 
as  when  I  last  saw  him,  and  is  undoubtedly  the  handsomest 
and  noblest-looking  man  I  have  ever  seen  in  my  life,  ex- 
cepting the  Marquis  de  Dupont  de  Nemours.  I  have  at 
Leeds  only  five  subscribers,  —  poor  indeed  compared  with 
the  little  town  of  York. 

May  5.  I  breakfasted  with  young  Mr.  Davy,  who  after 
conducted  me  to  Mr.  Marshall's  mills.  We  crossed  the 
Ayre  in  a  ferry  boat  for  a  half-penny  each,  and  on  the 
west  bank  stood  the  great  works.  The  first  thing  to  see 
was  the  great  engine,  150  horse-power,  a  stupendous  struc- 
ture, and  so  beautiful  in  all  its  parts  that  no  one  could,  I 
conceive,  stand  and  look  at  it  without  praising  the  ingenu- 
ity of  man.  Twenty-five  hundred  persons  of  all  ages  and 
both  sexes  are  here,  yet  nothing  is  heard  but  the  burroi 
machinery.  All  is  wonderfully  arranged ;  a  good  head 
indeed  must  be  at  the  commander's  post  in  such  a  vast 
establishment. 

Manchester,  May  6,  1827.  My  journey  was  uneventful 
and  through  the  rain.  I  reached  Mr.  Bentley's  soon  after 
noon,  and  we  were  both  glad  to  meet. 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


247 


May  7.  The  rooms  of  the  Natural  History  Society 
were  offered  to  me,  to  show  my  work,  but  hearing  acciden- 
tally that  the  Royal  Institution  of  Manchester  was  hold- 
ing an  exhibition  at  the  Messrs.  J.ickson's  and  thinking 
that  place  better  suited  to  me,  I  saw  these  gentlemen  and 
was  soon  installed  there.  I  have  had  five  subscribers. 
I  searched  for  lodgings  everywhere,  but  in  vain,  and  was 
debating  what  to  do,  when  Dr.  Harlan's  friend,  Mr.  E.  W. 
Sergeant,  met  me,  and  insisted  on  my  spending  my  time 
under  his  roof  He  would  take  no  refusal,  so  I  accepted. 
How  much  kindness  do  I  meet  with  everywhere.  I  have 
had  much  running  about  and  calling  on  different  people, 
and  at  ten  o'clock  this  evening  was  still  at  Mr.  Bentley's, 
not  knowing  where  Mr.  Sergeant  resided.  Mr.  Surr  was 
so  kind  as  to  come  with  me  in  search  of  the  gentleman ; 
we  found  him  at  home  and  he  gave  me  his  groom  to  go 
for  my  portmanteau.  Of  course  I  returned  to  Mr.  Bent- 
ley's  again,  and  he  returned  v^'th  me  to  see  me  safely 
lodged.  Mr.  Sergeant  insisted  on  his  coming  in ;  we  had 
coffee,  and  sat  some  time  conversing;  it  is  now  past  two 
of  the  morning. 

May  8.  I  saw  Mr.  Gregg  and  the  fair  Helen  of  Quarry 
Bank  this  morning ;  they  met  me  with  great  friendship.  I 
have  saved  myself  much  trouble  here  by  exhibiting  no 
drawings,  only  the  numbers  of  my  work  now  ready.  Mr. 
Sergeant  has  purchased  my  drawing  of  the  Doves  for 
twenty  pounds. 

May  13,  Sunday.  My  time  has  been  so  completely 
occupied  during  each  day  procuring  subscribers,  and  all 
my  evenings  at  the  house  of  one  or  another  of  my  friends 
and  acquaintances  that  my  hours  have  been  late,  and 
I  have  bidden  thee  good-night  without  writing  it  down.^ 
Manchester  has  most  certainly  retrieved  its  character,  for 

'  Nearly  every  entry  in  all  the  journals  begins  and  ends  with  a  morning 
greeting,  and  an  affectionate  good-night.  These  have  been  omitted  with 
occasional  exceptions. 


rr^ 


M 


m 


248 


A  UDUBON 


I  have  had  eighteen  subscribers  in  one  week,  which  is  more 
than  anywhere  else. 

Liverpool,  Monday,  May  I4.  I  breakfasted  with  my 
good  friend  Bentley,  and  left  in  his  care  my  box  contain- 
ing 250  drawings,  to  be  forwarded  by  the  "  caravan,"  — the 
name  given  to  covered  coaches.  I  cannot  tell  how  ex- 
tremely kind  Mr.  Sergeant  has  been  to  me  during  all  my 
stay.  He  exerted  himself  to  procure  subscribers  as  if  the 
work  had  been  his  own,  and  made  my  time  at  his  house 
as  pleasant  as  I  could  desire.  I  was  seated  on  top  of  the 
coach  at  ten  o'clock,  and  at  three  was  put  down  safely 
at  Dale  St.  I  went  immediately  to  the  Institution,  where  I 
found  Mr.  Munro.  I  did  not  like  to  go  to  Green  Bank 
abruptly,  therefore  shall  spend  the  night  where  I  am,  but 
sent  word  to  the  Rathbones  I  was  here.  I  have  called  on 
Dr.  Chorley  and  family,  and  Dr.  Traill ;  found  all  well  and 
as  kind  as  ever.  At  six  Mr.  Wm.  Rathbone  came,  and 
gave  me  good  tidings  of  the  whole  family;  I  wait  im- 
patiently for  the  morrow,  to  see  friends  all  so  dear. 

May  19,  Saturday  night.  I  leave  this  to-morrow  morn- 
ing for  London,  a  little  anxious  to  go  there,  as  I  have 
oftentimes  desired  to  be  in  sight  of  St.  Paul's  Church. 
I  have  not  been  able  to  write  because  I  felt  great  pleasure 
in  letting  my  good  friends  the  Rathbones  know  what  I 
had  done  since  I  was  here  last;  so  the  book  has  been  in 
the  fair  hands  of  my  friend  Hannah.  "  Lady  "  Rathbone 
and  Miss  Hannah  are  not  at  Green  Bank,  but  at  Woodcroft, 
and  there  we  met.  While  I  waited  in  the  library  how 
different  were  my  thoughts  from  those  I  felt  on  my  first 
entry  into  Liverpool.  As  I  thought,  I  watched  the  well- 
shaped  Wagtails  peaceably  searching  for  food  within  a  few 
paces  of  me.  The  door  opened,  and  I  met  my  good, 
kind  friends,  the  same  as  ever,  full  of  friendship,  benev- 
olence, and  candor.  I  spent  most  of  the  morning  with  them, 
and  left  my  book,  as  I  said,  with  them.  Thy  book,  I 
should  have  written,  for  it  is  solely  for  thee.     I  was  driven 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


249 


into  Liverpool  by  Mr.  Rd.  Rathbone,  with  his  mother  and 
Miss  Hannah,  and  met  Mr.  Chorley  by  appointment,  that 
we  might  make  the  respectful  visits  I  owed.  First  to 
Edward  Roscoe's,  bui  saw  only  his  charming  wife ;  then  to 
William  Roscoe's.  The  venerable  man  had  just  returned 
from  a  walk,  and  in  an  instant  our  hands  were  locked. 
He  asked  me  many  questions  about  my  publication, 
praised  the  engraving  and  the  coloring.  He  has  much 
changed.  Time's  violent  influenc*  has  rendered  his  cheeks 
less  rosy,  his  eye-brows  more  bushy,  forced  his  fine  eyes 
more  deeply  in  their  sockets,  made  his  frame  more  bent, 
his  walk  weaker;  but  his  voice  had  all  its  purity,  his  lan- 
guage all  its  brilliancy.  I  then  went  to  the  Botanic 
Gardens,  where  all  was  rich  and  beautiful ;  the  season 
allows  it.  Then  to  Alexander  Gordon's  and  Mr.  Hodgson. 
Both  out,  and  no  card  in  my  pocket.  Just  like  vtc.  I 
found  the  intelligent  Swiss  ^  in  his  office,  and  his  "  Ah, 
Audubon!  Comment  va?"  was  all-sufficient.  I  left  him  to 
go  to  Mr.  Rathbone's,  where  I  have  spent  every  night  except 
the  last.  As  usual  I  escaped  every  morning  at  four  for 
my  walk  and  to  write  letters.  I  have  not  done  much  work 
since  here,  but  I  have  enjoyed  that  which  I  have  long 
desired,  the  society  of  my  dear  friends  the  Rathbones. 
Whilst  writing  this,  I  have  often  wished  I  could  take  in  the 
whole  at  one  glance,  as  I  do  a  picture ;  this  need  has  fre- 
quently made  me  think  that  writing  a  good  book  must  be 
much  more  difficult  than  to  paint  a  good  picture.  To  my 
great  joy,  Mr.  Bentley  is  going  with  me  to  London.  With 
a  heavy  heart  I  said  adieu  to  these  dear  Rathbones,  and 
will  proceed  to  London  lower  in  spirits  than  I  was  in 
Edinburgh  the  first  three  days. 

Shrewsbury,  May  20.  After  all  sorts  of  difficulties  with 
the  coach,  which  left  one  hour  and  a  half  late,  we  reached 
Chester  at  eleven,  and  were  detained  an  hour.  I  therefore 
took  a  walk  under  the  piazzas  that  go  all  through  the 

»  Mr.  Melly. 


X    T    i' 


■\- 


250 


AUDUBON 


i 


town.  Where  a  street  has  to  be  crossed  we  went  down 
some  steps,  crossed  the  street  and  re-ascended  a  few  steps 
again.  Overhead  are  placed  the  second  stories  of  every 
house ;  the  whole  was  very  new  and  singular  to  me.  These 
avenues  are  clean,  but  rather  low ;  my  hat  touched  the  top 
once  or  twice,  and  I  want  an  inch  and  a  half  of  six  feet, 
English  measure.  At  last  we  proceeded ;  passed  the  vil- 
lage of  Wrexham,  and  shortly  after  through  another  village, 
much  smaller,  but  the  sweetest,  neatest,  and  pleasantest 
spot  I  have  seen  in  all  my  travels  in  this  country.  It  was 
composed  of  small,  detached  cottages  of  simple  appear- 
ance, divided  by  gardens  sufficiently  large  for  each  house, 
supplied  with  many  kinds  of  vegetables  and  fruit  trees, 
luxuriant  with  bloom,  while  round  the  doors  and  windows, 
and  clambering  over  the  roofs,  were  creeping  plants  and 
vines  covered  with  flowers  of  different  hues.  At  one  spot 
were  small  beds  of  variegated  tulips,  the  sweet-scented 
lilies  at  another,  the  hedges  looked  snowy  white,  and 
everywhere,  in  gentle  curves,  abundance  of  honeysuckle. 
This  village  was  on  a  gentle  declivity  from  which,  far  over 
the  Mersey,  rising  grounds  were  seen,  and  the  ascending 
smoke  of  Liverpool  also.  I  could  not  learn  the  name  of  this 
little  terrestrial  paradise,  and  must  wait  for  a  map  to  tell 
me.  We  dined  in  a  hurry  at  Eastham,  and  after  passing 
through  a  narrow  slip  in  Wales,  and  seeing  what  I  would 
thus  far  call  the  most  improved  and  handsomest  part  of 
England,  we  are  now  at  Shrewsbury  for  five  hours.  Mr. 
Bentley  and  I  had  some  bread  and  butter  and  pushed  out 
to  see  the  town,  and  soon  found  ourselves  on  the  bank  of 
the  Severn,  a  pretty  little  stream  about  sixty  yards  wide. 
Many  men  and  boys  were  doing  what  they  called  fishing, 
but  I  only  saw  two  sprats  in  one  of  the  boys'  hats  during 
the  whole  walk.  Some  one  told  us  that  up  the  river  we 
should  find  a  place  called  the  "  Quarry "  with  beautiful 
trees,  and  there  we  proceeded.  About  a  dozen  men,  too 
awkward  to  be  sailors,  were  rowing  a  long,  narrow,  pleas- 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


m 


ure  boat,  while  one  in  the  bow  gave  us  fine  music  with 
the  bugle.  We  soon  reached  the  Quarry,  and  found  our- 
selves under  tall,  luxuriant,  handsome  trees  forming  broad 
avenues,  following  the  course  of  the  river,  extremely  agree- 
able. Indeed,  being  a  woodsman,  I  think  this  the  finest 
sight  I  have  seen  in  England.  How  the  Severn  v  mds 
round  the  town,  in  the  form  of  a  horse-shoe !  About  the 
centre  of  this  horse-shoe,  another  avenue,  still  more  beau- 
tiful, is  planted,  going  gently  up  the  hill  towards  the  town. 
I  enjoyed  this  walk  more  than  I  can  tell  thee,  and  when  I 
thought  of  the  disappointment  I  had  felt  at  five  hours  delay 
at  Shrewsbury,  and  the  pleasure  I  now  felt,  I  repeated 
for  the  more  than  one  thousand  and  first  time,  "  Cer- 
tainly all  is  for  the  best  in  this  world,  except  our  own  sins." 
London,  May  21, 1827.  I  should  begin  this  page  per- 
haps with  a  great  exclamation  mark,  and  express  much 
pleasure,  but  I  have  not  the  wish  to  do  either;  to  me 
London  is  just  like  the  mouth  of  an  immense  monster, 
guarded  by  millions  of  sharp-edged  teeth,  from  which  if 
I  escape  unhurt  it  must  be  called  a  miracle.  I  have  many 
times  longed  to  see  London,  and  now  I  am  here  I  feel  a 
desire  beyond  words  to  be  in  my  beloved  woods.  The 
latter  part  of  the  journey  I  spent  closely  wrapped  in  both 
coat  and  cloak,  for  we  left  Shrewsbury  at  ten,  and  the 
night  was  chilly ;  my  companions  were  Mr.  Bentley  and 
two  Italians,  one  of  whom  continually  sang,  and  very  well, 
while  the  other  wished  for  daylight.  In  this  way  we  con- 
tinued till  two  of  the  morning,  and  it  was  then  cold.  From 
twelve  until  four  I  was  so  sleepy  I  could  scarcely  hold  up 
my  head,  and  I  suffered  much  for  the  want  of  my  regu- 
lar allowance  of  sleep  which  I  take  between  these  hours ; 
it  is  not  much,  yet  I  greatly  missed  it  We  breakfasted 
at  Birmingham  at  five,  where  the  worst  stuff"  bearing  the 
name  of  coffee  that  I  ever  tasted  was  brought  to  us.  I 
say  tasted,  for  I  could  do  no  more.  The  country  con- 
stantly improved  in  beauty;  on  we  drove  through  Strat- 


""y 

MHiSn  fii^^B' "'' " 

( 

\ 

"M 

iiB«  .HbO^ 

Hf 

BHBIH  '^^^I^^^H 

*, 

^nMlR  '^^B^^B 

li 

m^ 


m 


M 


252 


AUDI/BON 


ford-on-Avon,  Woodstock,  and  Oxford.  A  cleaner  and 
more  interesting  city  I  never  saw;  three  thousand  students 
are  here  at  present.  It  was  tea  o'clock  when  we  entered 
the  turnpike  gate  that  is  designated  as  the  line  of  demar- 
cation of  London,  but  for  many  miles  I  thought  the  road 
forming  a  town  of  itself.  We  followed  Oxford  Street  its 
whole  length,  and  then  turning  about  a  few  times  came  to 
the  Bull  and  Mouth  tavern  where  we  stay  the  night. 

May  23.  Although  two  full  days  have  been  spent  in 
London,  not  a  word  have  I  written ;  my  heart  would  not 
bear  me  up  sufficiently.  Monday  was  positively  a  day  of 
gloom  to  me.  After  breakfast  Mr.  Bentley  took  a  walk 
with  me  through  the  City,  he  leading,  and  I  following  as 
if  an  ox  to  the  slaughter.  Finall)  we  looked  for  and 
found  lodgings,  at  55  Great  Russell  Street,  to  which  we  at 
once  removed,  and  again  I  issued  forth,  noting  nothing  but 
the  great  dome  of  St.  Paul's  Cathedral.  I  delivered  sev- 
eral letters  and  was  well  received  by  all  at  home.  With 
Mr.  Children  ^  I  went  in  the  evening  to  the  Linnaean  Society 
and  exhibited  my  first  number.  All  those  present  pro- 
nounced my  work  unrivalled,  and  warmly  wished  me 
success. 

Sunday,  May  S8.  Ever  since  my  last  date  I  have  been 
delivering  letters,  and  attending  the  meetings  of  different 
societies.  One  evening  was  spent  at  the  Royal  Society, 
where,  as  in  all  Royal  Societies,  I  heard  a  dull,  heavy 
lecture.  Yesterday  my  first  call  was  on  Sir  Thos.  Law- 
rence ;  it  was  half-past  eight,  as  I  was  assured  later  would 
not  do.  I  gave  my  name,  and  in  a  moment  the  servant 
returned  and  led  me  to  him.  I  was  a  little  surprised  to 
see  him  dressed  as  for  the  whole  day.  He  rose  and  shook 
hands  with  me  the  moment  I  pronounced  my  good  friend 
Sully's  name.  While  he  read  deliberately  the  two  letters 
I  had  brought,  I  examined  his  face ;  it  did  not  exhibit  the 

*  John  George  Children,  1777-1852,  English  physicist  and  naturalist,  at 
this  time  secretary  of  the  Royal  Society. 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


253 


look  of  genius  that  one  is  always  expecting  to  meet  with 
in  a  man  of  his  superior  talents ;  he  looked  pale  and  pen- 
sive. He  wished  much  to  see  my  drawings,  and  appointed 
Thursday  at  eight  of  the  morning,  when,  knowing  the 
value  of  his  time,  I  retired.  Several  persons  came  to  see 
me  or  my  drawings,  among  others  Mr.  Gallatin,  the  Amer- 
ican minister.  I  went  to  Covent  Garden  "Theatre  with  Mr. 
Bentley  in  the  evening,  as  he  had  an  admittance  ticket. 
The  theatre  opens  at  six,  and  orders  are  not  good  after 
seven.  I  saw  Madame  Vestris ;  she  sings  middling  well, 
but  not  so  W12II  in  my  opinion  as  Miss  Neville  in  Edin- 
burgh. The  four  brothers  Hermann  I  admired  very 
much ;  their  voices  sounded  like  four  flutes. 

May  29.  I  have  been  about  indeed  like  a  post-boy, 
taking  letters  everywhere.  In  the  evening  I  went  to 
the  Athenaeum  at  the  corner  of  Waterloo  Place,  expecting 
to  meet  Sir  Thomas  Lawrence  and  other  gentlemen ;  but 
I  was  assured  that  about  eleven  or  half-past  was  the  fash- 
ionable time  for  these  gentlemen  to  assemble;  so  I  re- 
turned to  my  rooms,  being  worn  out;  for  I  must  have 
walked  forty  miles  on  these  hard  pavements,  from  Idol 
Lane  to  Grosvenor  Square,  ^nd  across  in  many  different 
directions,  all  equally  far  apart. 

Tuesday,  May  30.  At  twelve  o'clock  I  proceeded  with 
some  of  my  drawings  to  see  Mr.  Gallatin,  our  Envoy  ex- 
traordinaire. He  has  the  ease  and  charm  of  manner  of  a 
perfect  gentleman,  and  addressed  me  in  French.  Seated 
by  his  side  we  soon  travelled  (in  conversation)  to  Amer- 
ica; he  detests  the  English,  and  spoke  in  no  measured 
terms  of  London  as  the  most  disagreeable  place  in  Europe. 
While  we  were  talking  Mrs.  and  Miss  Gallatin  came  in,  and 
the  topic  was  changed,  and  my  drawings  were  exhibited. 
The  ladies  knew  every  plant,  and  Mr.  Gallatin  nearly  every 
bird.  I  found  at  home  that  new  suit  of  clothes  that  my 
friend  Basil  Hall  insisted  upon  my  procuring.  I  looked 
this  remarkable  black  dress  well  over,  put  it  o  n,  and  thu.s 


254 


AUDUBON 


■t , ; 


attired  like  a  mournful  Raven,  went  to  dine  at  Mr.  Chil- 
dren's. On  my  return  I  found  a  note  from  Lord  Stanley, 
asking  me  to  put  his  name  down  as  a  subscriber;  this 
pleased  me  exceedingly,  as  I  consider  Lord  Stanley  a  man 
eminently  versed  in  true  and  real  ornithological  pursuits. 
Of  course  my  spirits  are  better;  how  little  does  alter  a 
man.  A  trifle  raises  him,  a  little  later  another  casts  him 
down.  Mr.  Bentley  has  come  in  and  tells  me  three  poor 
fellows  were  hanged  at  Newgate  this  morning  for  stealing 
sheep.  My  God  !  how  awful  are  the  laws  of  this  land,  to 
take  a  human  life  for  the  theft  of  a  miserable  sheep. 

jHue  1.  As  I  was  walking,  not  caring  whither,  I  sud- 
denly met  a  face  well  known  to  me ;  I  stopped  and  warmly 
greeted  young  Kidd  of  Edinburgh.  His  surprise  was  as 
great  as  mine,  for  he  did  not  know  where  I  had  been  since 
I  left  Edinburgh.  Together  we  visited  the  exhibition  at 
the  British  gallery.  Ah !  what  good  work  is  here,  but 
most  of  the  painters  of  these  beautiful  pictures  are  no 
longer  on  this  earth,  and  who  is  there  to  keep  up  their 
standing?  I  was  invited  to  dine  with  Sir  Robert  Inglis,' 
and  took  a  seat  in  the  Clapham  coach  to  reach  his  place. 
The  Epsom  races  are  in  full  activity  about  sixteen  miles 
distant,  and  innumerable  coaches,  men  on  horseback, 
barouches,  foot  passengers,  filled  the  road,  all  classes  from 
the  beatt  inonde  to  the  beggar  intent  on  seeing  men  run 
the  chance  of  breaking  their  necks  on  horses  going 
like  the  wind,  as  well  as  losing  or  gaining  pence,  shillings, 
or  guineas  by  the  thousand.  Clapham  is  distant  from 
London  five  miles,  and  Sir  Robert  invited  lue  to  see  the 
grounds  while  he  dressed,  as  he  came  in  almost  as  I  did. 
How  different  from  noisy  London !  I  opened  a  door  and 
found  myself  on  a  circular  lawn  so  beautifully  ornamented 
that  I  was  tempted  to  exclaim,  "  How  beautiful  are  Thy 
works,  O  God !  "  I  walked  through  avenues  of  foreign 
trees  and  shrubs,  amongst  which  were  tulip-trees,  larches, 
1  Robert  Inglis,  1786-1855,  of  the  East  India  Company. 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


255 


and  cypresses  from  America.  Many  birds  were  here, 
some  searching  for  food,  while  others  gave  vent  to  their 
happy  feelings  in  harmonious  concerts.  The  house  itself 
was  covered  with  vines,  the  front  a  mass  of  blooming  roses 
exuberant  with  perfume.  What  a  delightful  feast  I  had  in 
this  peaceful  spot !  At  dinner  there  were  several  other 
guests,  among  them  the  widow  of  Sir  Thomas  Stanford 
Raffles,  governor  of  Java,  a  most  superior  woman,  and 
her  conversation  with  Dr.  Horsfield  was  deeply  interesting. 
The  doctor  is  a  great  zoologist,  and  has  published  a  fine 
work  on  the  birds  of  Java.  It  was  a  true /«;«//;/ dinner, 
and  therefore  I  enjoyed  it ;  Sir  Robert  is  at  the  head  of 
the  business  of  the  Carnatic  association  of  India. 

Friday,  June  2.  At  half/ast  seven  I  reached  Sir 
Thomas  Lawrence,  and  found  him  writing  letters.  He 
received  me  kindly,  and  at  once  examined  some  of  my 
drawings,  repeating  frequently,  "  Very  clever,  indeed !  " 
From  such  a  man  these  words  mean  much.  During  break- 
fast, which  was  simple  enough  and  sans  cMtnonie,  he 
asked  me  many  questions  about  America  and  about  my 
work.  After  leaving  him  I  met  Mr.  Vigors^  by  appoint- 
ment, who  said  everything  possible  to  encourage  me,  and 
told  me  I  would  be  elected  as  a  foreign  member  to  the 
Athenaeum.  Young  Kidd  called  to  see  me,  and  I  asked 
him  to  come  and  paint  in  my  room ;  his  youth,  simplicity, 
and  cleverness  have  attached  me  to  him  very  much. 

June  18.  Is  it  not  strange  I  should  suffer  whole  weeks 
to  pass  without  writing  down  what  happens  to  me?  But  "[ 
have  felt  too  dull,  and  too  harassed.  On  Thursday 
morning  I  received  a  long  letter  from  Mr.  Lizars,  informing 
me  that  his  colorers  had  struck  work,  and  everything  was 
at  a  stand-still ;  he  requested  me  to  try  to  find  some  persons 
here  who  would  engage  in  that  portion  of  the  business, 
and  he  would  do  his  best  to  bring  all  right  again.    This 

*  Nicholas  Aylward  Vigors,  1787-1840,  naturalist.  First  Secretary  of  the 
Zoological  Society  of  London. 


..„:-^  a 


(f' 


256 


AUDUBON 


was  quite  a  shock  to  my  nerves;  but  I  had  an  appoint- 
ment at  Lord  Spencer's  and  another  with  Mr.  Ponton ;  my 
thoughts  cooled,  I  concluded  to  keep  my  appointments. 
On  my  return  I  found  a  note  from  Mr.  Vigors  telling  me 
Charles  Bonaparte  was  in  town.  I  walked  as  quickly  as 
possible  to  his  lodgings,  but  he  was  absent.  I  wrote  him 
a  note  and  came  back  to  my  lodgings,  and  very  shortly 
was  told  that  the  Prince  of  Musignano  was  below,  and  in 
a  moment  I  held  him  by  the  hand.  We  were  pleased 
to  meet  each  other  on  this  distant  shore.  His  fine  head 
was  not  altered,  his  mustachios,  his  bearded  chin,  his  keen 
eye,  all  was  the  same.  He  wished  to  see  my  drawings, 
and  I,  for  the  first  time  since  I  had  been  in  London,  had 
pleasure  in  showing  them.  Charles  at  once  subscribed, 
and  I  felt  really  proud  of  this.  Other  gentlemen  came  in, 
but  the  moment  the  whole  were  gone  my  thoughts  returned 
to  the  colorers,  and  my  steps  carried  me  in  search  of 
some ;  and  this  for  three  days  I  have  been  doing.  I  have 
been  about  the  suburbs  and  dirtier  parts  of  London,  and 
more  misery  and  poverty  cannot  exist  without  absolute 
starvation.  By  chance  I  entered  a  print  shop,  and  the 
owner  gave  me  the  name  of  a  man  to  whom  I  went,  and 
who  has  engaged  to  color  more  cheaply  than  it  is  done 
in  Edinburgh,  and  young  Kidd  has  taken  a  letter  from 
me  to  Mr.  Lizars  telling  him  to  send  me  twenty-five  copies. 
June  19.  I  paid  a  visit  to  Sir  Thomas  Lawrence  this 
morning  and  after  waiting  a  short  time  in  his  gallery  he 
came  to  me  and  invited  me  into  his  painting-room.  I  had 
a  fair  opportunity  of  looking  at  some  of  his  unfinished 
work.  The  piece  before  me  represented  a  fat  man  sitting 
in  an  arm-chair,  not  only  correctly  outlined  but  beautifully 
sketched  in  black  chalk,  somewhat  in  the  style  of  Raphael's 
cartoons.  I  cannot  well  conceive  the  advantage  of  all  that 
trouble,  as  Sir  Thomas  paints  in  opaque  color,  and  not  as  I 
do  on  asphaltum  grounds,  as  I  believe  the  old  masters  did, 
showing  a  glaze  under  the  colors,  instead  of  over,  which  I 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


25: 


oint- 

;  n^y 

icnts. 
gme 
:ly  as 
c  him 
hi)rt\y 
md  in 
ilcased 
c  head 
is  keen 
awings, 
on,  had 
scribed, 
:ame  in, 
returned 
:arch  of 
1  have 
don,  and 
absolute 
and  the 
rent,  and 
|t  is  done 
:ter  from 
'e  copies, 
lence  this 
jallery  he 
1  had 
inf\nished 
an  sitting 
jeautifully 
.aphaeVs 
,f  all  that 
_  notasi 
[sters  did, 
which  1 


am  convinced  can  be  but  of  short  duration.  His  colors 
were  ground,  and  his  enormous  palette  of  white  wood 
well  set ;  a  large  table  was  literally  covered  with  all  sorts 
of  brushes,  and  the  room  filled  with  unfinished  pictures, 
some  of  which  appeared  of  very  old  standing.  I  now  had 
the  pleasure  of  seeing  this  great  artist  at  work,  which  I 
had  long  desired  to  do.  I  went  five  times  to  see  Mr. 
HavcU  the  colorer,  but  he  was  out  of  town.  I  am  full 
of  anxiety  and  greatly  depressed.  Oh  !  how  sick  I  am  of 
London. 

June  21.  I  received  a  letter  from  Mr.  Lizars  that  was 
far  from  allaying  my  troubles.  I  was  so  struck  with  the 
tenure  of  it  that  I  cannot  help  thinking  now  that  he  does 
not  wish  to  continue  my  work.  I  have  painted  a  great 
deal  to-day  and  called  on  Charles  Bonaparte. 

June  22.  I  was  particularly  invited  to  dine  at  the 
Royal  Society  Club  with  Charles  Bonaparte,  but  great 
dinners  always  so  frighten  me  that  I  gave  over  the 
thought  and  dined  peaceably  at  home.  This  evening 
Charles  B.  called  with  some  gentlemen,  among  whom 
were  Messrs.  Vigors,  Children,  Featherstonehaugh,  and 
Lord  Clifton.  My  portfolios  were  opened  before  this  set 
of  learned  men,  and  they  saw  many  birds  they  had  not 
dreamed  of.  Charles  offered  to  name  them  for  me,  and  I 
felt  happy  that  he  should ;  and  with  a  pencil  he  actually 
christened  upwards  of  fifty,  urging  me  to  publish  them  at 
once  in  manuscript  at  the  Zoological  Society.  These 
gentlemen  dropped  off  one  by  one,  leaving  only  Charles 
and  Mr.  Vigors.  Oh  that  our  knowledge  could  be  ar- 
ranged into  a  solid  mass.  I  am  sure  the  best  ornithological 
publication  of  the  birds  of  my  beloved  country  might  then 
be  published.  I  cannot  tell  you  how  surprised  I  was  when 
at  Charles's  lodgings  to  hear  his  man-servant  call  him 
"  your  Royal  Highness."  I  thought  this  ridiculous  in  the 
extreme,  and  I  cannot  conceive  how  good  Charles  can 
bear  it;  though  probably  he  does  bear   it  because  he  is 

VOL.   I.— 17 


iai<; 


■ 


■  I 


258 


A  UDUBON 


good  Charles.  I  have  no  painting  to  do  to-morrow  morn- 
>ng»  or  going  to  bed  at  two  would  not  do.  I  was  up  at 
three  this  morning,  and  finished  the  third  picture  since  in 
London. 

June  2S.  I  have  no  longer  the  wish  to  write  my  days. 
I  am  quite  wearied  of  everything  in  London ;  my  work 
does  not  proceed,  and  I  am  dispirited. 

July  2.  I  am  yet  so  completely  out  of  spirits  that  in 
vain  have  I  several  times  opened  my  book,  held  the  pen, 
and  tried  to  write.  I  am  too  dull,  too  mournful.  I  have 
finished  another  picture  of  Rabbits;  that  is  all  my  conso- 
lation.    I  wish  I  was  out  of  London. 

Leeds,  September  30,  1827.  I  arrived  here  this  day,  just 
five  months  since  my  first  visit  to  the  place,  but  it  is  three 
long  months  since  I  tarnished  one  of  thy  cheeks,  my  dear 
book.  I  am  quite  ashamed  of  it,  for  I  have  had  several 
incidents  well  deserving  to  be  related  even  in  my  poor 
humble  style,  —  a  style  much  resembling  my  paintings  in 
oil.  Now,  nevertheless,  I  will  in  as  quick  a  manner  as 
possible  recapitulate  the  principal  facts. 

First.  I  removed  the  publication  of  my  work  from 
Edinburgh  to  London,  from  the  hands  of  Mr.  Lizars  into 
those  of  Robert  Havell,  No.  79  Newman  St.,  because  the 
difficulty  of  finding  colorers  made  it  come  too  slowly,  and 
also  because  I  have  it  done  better  and  cheaper  in  London. 
I  have  painted  much  and  visited  little ;  I  hate  as  much  as 
ever  large  companies.     I  have  removed  to  Great  Russell 

St.,  number  95,  to  a  Mrs.  W 's,  an  intelligent  widow, 

with  eleven  children,  and  but  little  cash. 

Second.  The  King ! !  My  dear  Book  I  it  was  presented 
to  him  by  Sir  Walter  Waller,  Bart.,  K.  C.  H.,  at  the  request 
of  my  most  excellent  friend  J.  P.  Children,  of  the  British 
Museum.  His  Majesty  was  pleased  to  call  it  fine,  per- 
mitted me  to  publish  it  under  his  particular  patronage, 
approbation,  and  protection,  became  a  subscriber  on  the 
usual  terms,  not  as  kings  generally  do,  but  as  a  gentleman, 


i 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


259 


n- 
at 
in 


lys. 
ork 


Lt  m 
pen, 
have 
anso- 

j,  just 
three 
y  dear 
several 
yj  poor 

ings  »■« 
nner  as 

[k  from 
|ars  into 

lusc  the 

Ay,  and 
|Lon(ion. 

I  much  as 
Russell 

t  widow. 

)resented 
le  request 

le  Britisl^ 
Ifine,  per- 

)atronage. 


[er  on 


the 


intleman, 


and  my  friends  all  spoke  as  if  a  mountain  of  sovereigns 
iiad  dropped  in  an  ample  purse  at  once,  and  for  me.     The 
Duchess  of  Clarence  also  subscribed.     I  attended  to  my 
business  closely,  but  my  agents  neither  attended  to  it  nor 
to  my  orders  to  them ;  and  at  last,  nearly  at  bay  for  means 
to  carry  on  so  heavy  a  business,  I  decided  to  make  a  sortie 
for  the  purpose  of  collecting  my  dues,  and  to  augment  my 
subscribers,  and  for  that  reason  left  London  this  day  fort- 
night past  for  Manchester,  where  I  was  received   by  my 
friends  (i  bras  ouverts.     I  lived  and  lodged  at  friend  Ser- 
geant's, collected  all  my  money,  had  an  accession  of  nine 
subscribers,    found   a    box    of   beautiful    bird-skins    sent 
Bentley  by  my  dear  boy  Johnny,  ^  left  in  good  spirits,  and 
here  I  am  at  Leeds.     On  my  journey  hither  in  the  coach 
a  young  sportsman  going  from  London  to  York  was  my 
companion;  he  was  about  to  join  a  shooting  expedition, 
and  had  two  dogs  with  him  in  a  basket  on  top  of  the 
coach.     We  spoke  of  game,   fish,  and   such   topics,   and 
presently  he  said  a  work  on  ornithology  was  being  pub- 
lished in  London  by  an  American  (he  told  me  later  he 
took  me  for  a  Frenchman)  nameci  Audubon,  and  spoke  of 
my  industry  and  regretted  he  had  not  seen  them,  as  his 
sisters  had,  and  spoke  in  raptures  of  them,  etc.     I  could 
not  of  course  permit  this,  so  told  him  my  name,  when  he 
at  once   shook   hands,   and   our  conversation    continued 
even  more  easily  than  before.     I  am  in  the  same  lodgings 
as  formerly.      My  landlady  was  talking  with  a  meagre- 
looking  child,  who  told  a  sad  story  of  want,  which  my  good 
landlady  confirmed.     I  never  saw  greater  pleasure   than 
sparkled  in  that  child's  face  as  I  gave  her  a  few  pie':es  of 
silver  for  her  mother.     I  never  thought  it  necessary  to  be 
rich  to  help  those  poorer  than  ourselves ;  I  have  considered 
it  a  duty  to  God,  and  to  grow  poorer  in  so  doing  is  a 
blessing  to  me.     I  told  the  good  landlady  to  send  for  one 
of  the  child's  brothers,  who  was  out  of  work,  to  do  my 
'  Then  a  boy  not  fifteen,  who  was  at  Bayou  Sara  with  his  mother. 


m^' 


w 


260 


A  UDUBON 


errands  for  me.     I  took  a  walk  and  listened  with  pleasure 
to  the  song  of  the  little  Robin. 

October  1.  I  called  at  the  Philosophical  Hall  and  at 
the  Public  Library,  but  I  am  again  told  that  Leeds,  though 
wealthy,  has  no  taste ;  nevertheless  I  hope  to  establish  an 
agency  here. 

October  3.  I  visited  the  museum  of  a  Mr.  Calvert,  a 
man  who,  like  myself,  by  dint  of  industry  and  perseverance 
is  now  the  possessor  of  the  finest  collection  I  have  seen  in 
England,  with  the  exception  of  the  one  at  Manchester. 
I  received  a  letter  from  Mr.  Havell  only  one  day  c'd; 
wonderful  activity  this  in  the  post-office  department.  I 
have  been  reading  good  Bewick's  book  on  quadrupeds. 
I  have  had  no  success  in  Leeds,  and  to-morrow  go  to 
York. 

York,  October  5.  Mr.  Barclay,  my  agent  here,  I  soon 
found  had  done  almost  nothing,  had  not  indeed  delivered 
all  the  numbers.  I  urged  him  to  do  better,  and  went  to  the 
Society  Hall,  where  I  discovered  that  the  number  which 
had  been  forwarded  from  Edinburgh  after  I  had  left  there 
was  miserably  poor,  scarcely  colored  at  all.  I  felt  quite 
ashamed  of  it,  although  Mr.  Wright  thought  it  good ;  but 
I  sent  it  at  once  to  Havell  for  proper  treatment.  Being 
then  too  late  to  pay  calls,  I  borrowed  a  volume  of  Gil  Bias, 
and  have  been  reading. 

October  6.  No  luck  to-day,  my  Lucy.  I  am,  one  would 
think,  generally  either  before  or  after  the  proper  time.  I 
am  told  that  last  week,  when  the  Duke  of  Wellington  was 
here,  would  have  been  the  better  moment.  I  shall  have 
the  same  song  given  me  at  Newcastle,  I  dare  foretell.  I 
have  again  been  reading  Gil  Bias ;  how  replete  I  always 
find  it  of  good  lessons. 

October  8.     I  walked  this  morning  with  Mr.  Barclay  to 

the  house  of  Mr.  F ,  a  mile  out  of  town,  to  ascertain  if 

he  had  received  the  first  number.    His  house  was  expressly 
built  for  Queen  Elizabeth,  who,  I  was  told,  had  never  been 


THE  E  UROPEA  N  JO  URNALS 


261 


in  it  after  all.  It  resembles  an  old  church,  the  whole  front 
being  of  long,  narrow  windows.  The  inside  is  composed  of 
large  rooms,  highly  decorated  with  ancient  pictures  of  the 
F family.  The  gardens  are  also  of  ancient  appear- 
ance ;  there  were  many  box-trees  cut  in  the  shape  of  hats, 
men,  birds,  etc.  I  was  assured  the  number  had  not  been 
received,  so  I  suppose  it  never  was  sent.  On  our  return 
Mr.  Barclay  showed  me  an  asylum  built  by  Quakers  for 
the  benefit  of  lunatics,  and  so  contrived  with  gardens, 
pleasure-grounds,  and  such  other  modes  of  recreation,  that 
in  consequence  of  these  pleasant  means  of  occupying 
themselves  many  had  recovered. 

October  9.  How  often  I  thought  during  these  visits  of 
poor  Alexander  Wilson.  When  travelling  as  I  am  now,  to 
procure  subscribers,  he  as  well  as  myself  was  received  with 
rude  coldness,  and  sometimes  with  that  arrogance  which 
belongs  to  parvenus. 

October  11.  It  has  been  pouring  down  rain  during  all 
last  night  and  this  day,  and  loo  <s  as  if  it  would  not  cease 
for  some  time ;  it  is,  however,  not  such  distressing  falls  of 
water  as  we  have  in  Louisiana ;  it  carries  not  every  object 
off  with  the  storm ;  the  banks  of  the  rivers  do  not  fall  in 
with  a  crash,  with  hundreds  of  acres  of  forest  along  with 
them;  no  houses  are  seen  floating  on  the  streams  with 
cattle,  game,  and  the  productions  of  the  husbandman.  No, 
it  rains  as  if  Nature  was  in  a  state  of  despondency,  and  I 
am  myself  very  dull;  I  have  been  reading  Stanley's  Tales, 

October  12.  This  morning  I  walked  along  the  Ouse; 
the  water  had  risen  several  feet  and  was  quite  muddy.  I 
had  the  pleasure  of  seeing  a  little  green  Kingfisher  perched 
close  to  me  for  a  few  minutes;  but  the  instant  his  quick 
eye  espied  me,  he  dashed  off  with  a  shrill  squeak,  almost 
touching  the  water.  I  must  say  I  longed  for  a  gun  to  have 
stopped  him,  as  I  never  saw  one  fresh  killed.  I  saw 
several  men  fishing  with  a  large  scoop-net,  fixed  to  a  long 
pole.    The  fisherman  laid  the  net  gently  on  the  water,  and 


i  ( 


y 


t 


262 


A  UDWBON 


with  a  good  degree  of  force  he  sank  it,  meantime  drawing 
it  along  the  bottom  and  grassy  banks  towards  him.  The 
fish,  intent  on  feeding,  attempted  to  escape,  and  threw 
themselves  into  the  net  and  were  hauled  ashore.  This 
was  the  first  successful  way  of  fishing  I  have  seen  in  Eng- 
land. Some  pikes  of  eight  or  ten  pounds  were  taken,  and 
I  saw  some  eels.  I  have  set  my  heart  on  having  two 
hundred  subscribers  on  my  list  by  the  first  of  May  next; 
should  I  succeed  I  shall  feel  well  satisfied,  and  able  to  have 
thee  and  our  sons  all  together.  Thou  seest  that  castles  are 
still  building  on  hopeful  foundations  only;  but  he  who 
does  not  try  anything  cannot  obtain  his  ends. 

October  15,  Newcastle.  Yesterday  I  took  the  coach  and 
found  myself  here  after  an  uneventful  journey,  the  route 
being  now  known  to  me,  and  came  to  my  former  lodgings, 
where  I  was  followed  almost  immediately  by  the  Marquis 
of  Londonderry,  who  subscribed  at  once.  Then  I  called 
upon  friend  Adamson,  who  before  I  could  speak  invited 
me  to  dinner  every  day  that  I  was  disengaged.  He 
advised  me  to  have  a  notice  in  the  papers  of  my  being 
here  for  a  few  days,  so  I  went  to  the  Tyne  Mercury  ;  saw 
Mr.  Donkin,  who  invited  me  to  breakfast  with  him  to-mor- 
row at  half-past  seven,  quite  my  hour. 

October  17.  During  the  day  Mr.  Wingate,  an  excellent 
practical  ornithologist,  came  to  see  me,  and  we  had  much 
conversation  which  interested  me  greatly.  Also  came  the 
mayor,  who  invited  me  to  dine  with  him  publicly  to-morrow. 
I  have  writen  to  Mr.  Selby  to  ask  if  he  will  be  at  Alnwick 
Castle  on  Friday,  as  if  so  I  will  meet  him  there,  and  try  to 
find  some  subscribers.  Several  persons  have  asked  me 
how  I  came  to  part  with  Mr.  Lizars,  and  I  have  felt  glad 
to  be  able  to  say  that  it  was  at  his  desire,  and  that  we 
continue  esteemed  friends.  I  have  been  pleased  to  find 
since  I  left  London  that  all  my  friends  cry  against  my 
painting  in  oil;  it  proves  to  me  the  real  taste  of  good 
William  Rathbone ;  and  now  I  do  declare  to  thee  that  I  will 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


263 


not  spoil  any  more  canvas,  but  will  draw  in  my  usual  old, 
untaught  way,  which  is  what  God  meant  me  to  do. 

October  18.  This  morning  I  paid  a  visit  to  old  Mr. 
Bewick.  I  found  the  good  gentleman  as  usual  at  work, 
but  he  looked  much  better,  as  the  cotton  cap  had  been 
discarded  for  a  fur  one.  He  was  in  good  spirits,  and  we 
met  like  old  friends.  I  could  not  spend  as  much  time  with 
him  as  I  wished,  but  saw  sufficient  of  him  and  his  family 
to  assure  me  they  were  well  and  happy.  I  met  Mr. 
Adamson,  who  went  with  me  to  dine  at  the  Mansion 
House.  We  were  received  in  a  large  room,  furnished  in 
the  ancient  style,  panelled  with  oak  all  round,  and  very 
sombre.  The  company  all  arrived,  we  marched  in  couples 
to  dinner  and  I  was  seated  in  the  centre,  the  mayor  at 
one  end,  the  high  sheriff  at  the  other;  we  were  seventy- 
two  in  number.  As  my  bad  luck  would  have  it,  I  was 
toasted  by  John  Clayton,  Esq. ;  he  made  a  speech,  and  /, 
poor  fellow,  was  obliged  to  return  the  compliment,  which 
I  did,  as  usual,  most  awkwardly  and  covered  with  perspira- 
tion. Miserable  stupidity  that  never  will  leave  me  !  I  had 
thousands  of  questions  to  answer  about  the  poor  aborigi- 
nes. It  was  dark  when  I  left,  and  at  my  room  was  a 
kind  letter  from  Mr.  Selby,  inviting  me  to  meet  him  at 
Alnwick  to-morrow. 

Twizel  House,  October  19.  I  arrived  at  AL^wick  about 
eleven  this  morning,  found  the  little  village  ^uiite  in  a 
bustle,  and  Mr.  Selby  at  the  court.  How  glad  I  was  to 
see  him  again  I  cannot  say,  but  I  well  know  I  feel  the 
pleasure  yet,  though  twelve  hours  have  elapsed.  Again 
I  dined  with  the  gentlemen  of  the  Bar,  fourteen  in  m.mber. 
A  great  ball  takes  place  at  Alnwick  Castle  this  nig''  ut 
Mr.  Selby  took  me  in  his  carriage  and  has  brouj^  me 
to  his  family,  —  a  thou'^if-l  times  more  agreeable  to  me 
than  the  motley  crowd  .  ae  Castle.  I  met  again  Captain 
Mitford,  most  cordial  to  me  always.  To  my  regret  many 
of  my  subscribers  have  not  yet  received  the  third  number, 


U'- 


264 


AUDUBON 


m 


I!  V 


not  even  Mr.  Selby.     I  cannot  understand  this  apparent 
neglect  on  the  part  of  Mr.  Lizars. 

Sunday,  October  21.  Although  it  has  been  raining  and 
blowing  without  mercy  these  two  days,  I  have  spent  my 
time  most  agreeably.  The  sweet  children  showed  their 
first  attachment  to  me  and  scarce  left  me  a  moment  during 
their  pleasure  hours,  which  were  too  short  for  us  all. 
Mrs.  Selby,  who  was  away  with  her  sick  brother,  returned 
yesterday.  Confined  to  the  house,  reading,  music,  and 
painting  were  our  means  of  enjoyment.  Both  this  morn- 
ing and  this  evening  Mr.  Selby  read  prayers  and  a  chapter 
in  the  Bible  to  the  whole  household,  the  storm  being  so 
severe. 

Edinburgh,  October  22.  I  am  again  in  the  beautiful 
Edinburgh;  I  reached  it  this  afternoon,  cold,  uncomfor- 
table and  in  low  spirits.  Early  as  it  was  when  I  left  this 
morning,  Mrs.  Selby  and  her  lovely  daughter  came  down 
to  bid  me  good-bye,  and  whenever  I  leave  those  who  show 
me  such  pure  kindness,  and  especially  such  friends  as 
these  dear  Selbys,  it  is  an  absolute  pain  to  me.  I  think 
that  as  I  grow  older  my  attachment  augments  for  those 
who  are  kind  to  me ;  perhaps  not  a  day  passes  without 
I  visit  in  thought  those  mansions  where  I  have  been 
so  hospitably  received,  the  inmates  of  which  I  recall  with 
every  sense  of  gratitude;  the  family  Rathbone  always  first, 
the  Selbys  next,  in  London  Mr.  Children,  in  Manchester 
the  Greggs  and  Bentleys  and  my  good  friend  Sergeant, 
at  Leeds  Mr.  Atkinson,  at  Newcastle  dear  old  Bewick, 
Mr.  Adamson,  and  the  Rev.  William  Turner,  and  here  Mr. 
Lizars  and  too  many  to  enumerate ;  but  I  must  go  back 
to  Liverpool  to  name  John  Chorley,  to  whom  I  feel  warmly 
attached.  It  rained  during  my  whole  journey  here,  and 
I  saw  the  German  Ocean  agitated,  foaming  and  dark  in 
the  distance,  scarce  able  to  discern  the  line  of  the  horizon. 
I  send  my  expense  account  to  you,  to  give  Victor  an  idea 
of  what  the  cost  of  travelling  will  be  when  he  takes  charge 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


265 


of  my  business  here,  whilst  I  am  procuring  fresh  speci- 
mens. I  intend  next  year  positively  to  keep  a  cash 
account  with  myself  and  others,  —  a  thing  I  have  never  yet 
done. 

October  23.  I  visited  Mr.  Lizars  first,  and  found  him 
as  usual  at  work;  he  received  me  well,  and  asked  me 
to  dine  with  him.  I  was  sorry  to  learn  that  Lady  Ellen 
Hall  and  W.  H.  Williams  had  withdrawn  their  subscrip- 
tions, therefore  I  must  exert  myself  the  more. 

October  27.  Anxious  to  appoint  an  agent  at  Edinburgh, 
I  sent  for  Mr.  Daniel  Lizars  the  bookseller,  and  made 
hlin  an  ofifer  which  he  has  accepted ;  I  urged  him  not 
to  lose  a  moment  in  forwarding  the  numbers  which  have 
been  lying  too  long  at  his  brother's ;  many  small  matters 
have  had  to  be  arranged,  but  now  I  believe  all  is  settled. 
W.  H.  Lizars  saw  the  plates  of  No.  3,  and  admired  them 
much ;  called  his  workmen,  and  observed  to  them  that 
the  London  artists  beat  them  completely.  He  brought 
his  account,  and  I  paid  him  in  full.  I  think  he  regrets 
now  that  he  decided  to  give  my  work  up ;  for  I  was 
glad  to  hear  him  say  that  should  I  think  well  to  intrust 
him  with  a  portion  of  it,  it  should  be  done  as  well  as 
HavcU's,  and  the  plates  delivered  in  London  at  the  same 
price.  If  he  can  fall  twenty-seven  pounds  in  the  engrav- 
ing of  each  number,  and  do  them  in  superior  style  to 
his  previous  work,  how  enormous  must  his  profits  have 
been;  good  lesson  this  for  me  in  the  time  to  come, 
though  I  must  remember  Havell  is  more  reasonable 
owing  to  what  has  passed  between  us  in  our  business 
arrangements,  and  the  fact  that  he  owes  so  much  to 
me.^  '  I  have  made  many  calls,  and  been  kindly  wel- 
comed at  every  house.  The  "  Courant "  and  the  "  Scotch- 
man "  have  honored  me  with  fine  encomiums  on  my  work. 

^  When  found  by  Audubon  the  Havells  were  in  extreme  poverty.  He 
provided  everything  for  them,  and  his  publication  made  them  compara- 
tively wealthy. 


,:|; 


W'.' 


I' 


266 


A  UDUBON 


'if 


The  weather   has   been  intolerable,  raining   and  blowing 
constantly. 

October  31.  Mr.  W.  H.  Lizars  has  dampened  my  spirits 
a  ;ood  deal  by  assuring  mc  that  I  would  not  find  Scotland 
sc  ready  at  paying  for  my  work  as  England,  and  positively 
advised  me  not  to  seek  for  more  subscribers  either  here 
or  at  Glasgow.  It  is  true,  six  of  my  first  subscribers  have 
abandoned  the  work  without  even  giving  me  a  reason; 
so  my  mind  has  wavered.  If  I  go  to  Glasgow  and  can 
only  obtain  names  that  in  the  course  of  a  few  months 
will  be  withdrawn,  I  am  only  increasing  expenses  and 
losing  time,  and  of  neither  time  nor  money  have  I  too  great 
a  portion ;  but  when  I  know  that  Glasgow  is  a  place  of 
wealth,  and  has  many  persons  of  culture,  I  decide  to  go. 

November  2.  I  called  on  Professor  Wilson  this  morning 
who  welcomed  me  heartily,  and  offered  to  write  some- 
thing about  my  work  in  the  journal  called  "  Blackwood"; 
he  made  me  many  questions,  and  asked  me  to  breakfast 
to-morrow,  and  promised  me  some  letters  for  Glasgow. 

November  3.  My  breakfast  with  the  Professor  was  very 
agreeable.  His  fine  daughter  headed  the  table,  and  two 
sons  were  with  us.  The  more  I  look  at  Wilson,  the  more 
I  admire  his  originalities,  —  a  man  not  equal  to  Walter 
Scott,  it  is  true,  but  in  many  ways  nearly  approaching 
him ;  as  free  from  the  detestable  stiffness  of  ceremonies 
as  I  am  when  I  can  help  myself,  no  cravat,  no  waistcoat, 
but  a  fine  frill  of  his  own  profuse  beard,  his  hair  flowing 
uncontrolled,  and  in  his  speech  dashing  at  once  at  the 
object  in  view,  without  circumlocution  ;  with  a  countenance 
beaming  with  intellect,  and  eye?,  that  would  do  justice 
to  the  Bird  of  Washington.  He  gives  m.e  comfort,  by 
being  comfortable  himself.  With  such  a  man  I  can  talk 
for  a  whole  day,  and  could  listen  for  years. 

Glasgow,  November  4-  At  eleven  I  entered  the  coach  for 
my  ride  of  forty-two  miles;  three  inside  passengers  be- 
sides myself  made  the  entire  journey  without  having  uttered 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


267 


a  single  word ;  we  all  sat  like  so  many  owls  of  different 
species,  as  if  afraid  of  one  another,  and  on  the  qui  vivc, 
all  as  dull  as  the  barren  country  I  travelled  this  day.  A 
few  glimpses  of  dwarflike  yellow  pines  here  and  there 
seemed  to  wish  to  break  the  dreariness  of  this  portion 
of  Scotland,  but  the  attempt  was  in  vain,  and  I  sat  watch- 
ing the  crows  that  flew  under  the  dark  sky  foretelling 
winter's  approach.  I  arrived  here  too  late  to  see  any 
portion  of  the  town,  for  when  the  coach  stopped  at  the 
Black  Bull  all  was  so  dark  that  I  could  only  see  it  was 
a  fine,  broad,  long  street. 

November  8.  I  am  off  to-morrow  morning,  and  perh^.ps 
forever  will  say  farewell  to  Glasgow.  I  have  been  here 
four  days  and  have  obtained  o/ie  subscriber.  One  sub- 
scriber in  a  city  of  150,000  souls,  rich,  handsome,  and  with 
much  learning.  Think  of  1400  pupils  in  one  college ! 
Glasgow  is  a  fine  city ;  the  Clyde  here  is  a  small  stream 
crossed  by  three  bridges.  The  shipping  consists  of  about 
a  hundred  brigs  and  schooners,  but  I  counted  eighteen 
steam  vessels,  black,  ugly  things  as  ever  were  built.  One 
sees  few  carriages,  but  thousands   of  carts. 

Edinburgh,  November  9.  In  my  old  lodgings,  after  a 
journey  back  from  the  "  City  of  the  West "  which  was 
agreeable  enough,  all  the  passengers  being  men  of  intellect 
and  social  natures. 

November  10.  I  left  this  house  this  morning  an  hour 
and  a  half  before  day,  and  pushed  off  for  the  sea-shore, 
or,  as  it  is  called,  The  Firth.  It  was  calm  and  rather  cold, 
but  I  enjoyed  it,  and  reached  Professor  Jameson's  a  few 
minutes  before  breakfast.  I  was  introduced  to  the  "  Lord 
of  Ireland,"  an  extremely  intelligent  person  and  an  enthu- 
siast in  zoological  researches ;  he  had  been  a  great  travel- 
ler, and  his  conversation  was  highly  interesting.  In  the 
afternoon  I  went  to  the  summit  of  Arthur's  Seat;  the  day 
was  then  beautiful  and  the  extensive  view  cheered  my 
spirits. 


268 


A  UDUDON 


% 


!  « 


!rl    •  :  if 


November  13.  I  arrived  at  Twizel  Hall  at  half-past 
four  in  good  time  for  dinner,  having  travelled  nearly  eighty 
miles  quite  alone  in  the  coach,  not  the  Mail  but  the  Union. 
Sir  William  Jardine  met  me  on  my  arrival.  I  assure  thee 
it  was  a  pleasure  ♦^o  spend  two  days  here,  —  shooting  while 
it  was  fair,  and  painting  v"hen  rainy.  In  one  of  our  walks 
I  shot  five  Pheasants,  one  Hare,  one  Rabbit,  and  one 
Partridge ;  gladly  would  I  remain  here  longer,  but  my 
work  demands  me  elsewhere. 

York,  November  IH.  I  have  been  here  five  hours.  The 
day  was  so-so,  and  my  companions  in  the  coach  of  the 
dormouse  order ;  eighty-two  miles  and  no  conversation  is 
to  me  dreadful.  Moreover  our  coachman,  having  in  sight 
a  coach  called  the  "  High-Flyer,"  felt  impelled  to  keep  up 
with  that  vehicle,  and  so  lashed  the  horses  that  we  kept 
close  to  it  all  the  while.  Each  time  we  changed  our 
animals  I  saw  them  quite  exhausted,  panting  for  breath, 
and  covered  with  sweat  and  the  traces  of  the  blows  they 
had  received ;  I  assure  thee  my  heart  ached.  How  such 
conduct  agrees  with  the  ideas  of  humanity  I  constantly 
hear  discussed,  I  leave  thee  lo  judge. 

Liverpool,  November  22.  I  left  Manchester  at  four  this 
morning;  it  was  very  dark,  and  bitterly  cold,  but  my 
travelling  companions  were  pleasant,  so  the  time  passed 
quite  quickly.  At  a  small  village  about  half-way  here, 
three  felons  and  a  man  to  guard  them  mounted  the  coach, 
bound  to  Botany  Bay.  These  poor  wretches  were  chained 
to  each  other  by  the  legs,  had  scarcely  a  rag  on,  and  those 
they  wore  so  dirty  that  no  one  could  have  helped  feeling 
deep  pity  for  them,  case-hardened  in  vice  as  they  seemed 
to  be.  They  had  some  money,  for  they  drank  ale  and 
brandy  wherever  we  stopped.  Though  cold,  the  sun  rose 
in  full  splendor,  but  the  fickleness  of  the  weather  in  this 
country  is  wonderful ;  before  reaching  here  it  snowed, 
rained,  and  cleared  up  again.  On  arriving  T  went  at  once 
to  the  Royal  Institution,   and  on  my  way   met  William 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


269 


Rathbonc.  I  recognized  him  as  far  as  I  could  sec  him,  but 
could  easily  have  passed  him  unnoticed,  as,  shivering  with 
cold,  I  was  wrapped  up  in  my  large  cloak.  Glad  was  I  to 
hold  him  once  more  by  the  hand,  and  to  learn  that  all  my 
friends  were  well.  I  have  seen  Dr.  Traill,  John  Chorley, 
and  many  others  who  were  kind  to  me  when  I  was  here 
before.     All  welcomed  me  warmly. 

November  22.  This  day  after  my  arrival  I  rose  before 
day  and  walked  to  Green  Bank.  When  half  my  walk  was 
over  the  sun  rose,  and  my  pleasure  increased  every  moment 
that  brought  me  nearer  to  my  generous,  kind  "Lady" 
Rathbonc  and  her  sweet  daughter.  Miss  Hannah.  When  I 
reached  the  house  all  was  yet  silent  within,  and  I  rambled 
over  the  frozen  grass,  watching  the  birds  that  are  always 
about  the  place,  enjoying  full  peace  and  security.  The 
same  Black  Thrush  (probably)  that  I  have  often  heard 
before  was  perclted  on  a  fir-tree  announcing  the  beauty 
of  this  winter  morning  in  his  melodious  voice ;  the  little 
Robins  flitted  about,  making  towards  those  windows  that 
they  knew  would  soon  be  opened  to  them.  How  I  admired 
every  portion  of  the  work  of  God.  I  entered  the  hot-house 
and  breathed  the  fragrance  of  each  flower,  yet  sighed  at 
the  sight  of  some  that  I  recognized  as  offsprings  of  my 
own  beloved  country.  Henry  Chorley,  who  had  been 
spending  the  night  at  Green  Bank,  now  espied  me  from 
his  window,  so  I  went  in  and  soon  was  greeted  by  that 
best  of  friends,  "  Lady  "  Rathbone.  After  breakfast  Miss 
Hannah  opened  the  window  and  her  favorite  little  Robin 
hopped  about  the  carpet,  quite  at  home.  I  returned  to 
Liverpool  with  Mr.  B.^  Rathbone,  who,  much  against  my 
wishes,  for  I  can  do  better  work  now,  bought  my  picture  of 
the  Hawk  pouncing  on  the  Partridges. 

November  26.     Visited  Dr.  Traill,  to  consult  with  him 
on  the  best  method  of  procuring  subscribers,  and  we  have 
decided  that  I  am  to  call  on  Mr.  W.  W.  Currie,  the  pres- 
^  Benson  Rathbone. 


m 


270 


AUDUBON 


I 

f: 


ident  of  the  Athenaeum,  to  obtain  his  leave  to  show  my 
work  in  the  Reading  Room,  and  for  me  to  have  notes  of 
invitation  printed  and  sent  to  each  member,  for  them  to 
come  and  inspect  the  work  as  far  as  it  goes.  I  called  on 
Mr.  Curric  and  obtained  his  permission  at  once,  so  the 
matter  is  en  train. 

November  30.  I  have  spent  the  day  at  Woodcroft  with 
Richard  Rathbone.  Mrs.  Rathbone  wishes  me  to  teach 
her  how  to  paint  in  oils.  Now  is  it  not  too  bad  that  I 
cannot  do  so,  for  want  of  talent?  My  birds  in  water-colors 
have  plumage  and  soft  colors,  but  in  oils  —  alas!  I 
walked  into  town  with  Richard  Rathbone,  who  rode  his 
horse.  I  kept  by  his  side  all  the  way,  the  horse  walking. 
I  do  not  rely  as  much  on  my  activity  as  I  did  twenty  years 
ago,  but  I  still  think  I  could  kill  any  horse  in  England  in 
twenty  days,  taking  the  trayel  over  rough  and  level  grounds. 
This  might  be  looked  upon  as  a  boast  by  many,  but,  I  am 
quite  satisfied,  not  by  those  who  have  seen  me  travel  at 
the  rate  of  five  miles  an  hour  all  day.  Once  indeed  I 
recollect  going  from  Louisville  to  Shippingport  ^  in  four- 
teen minutes,  with  as  much  ease  as  if  I  had  been  on 
skates. 

December  3.  This  morning  I  made  sketches  of  all  the 
parts  of  the  Platypus  ^  for  William  Gregg,  who  is  to  deliver 
a  lecture  on  this  curious  animal.  To-day  and  yesterday 
have  been  rainy,  dismal  indeed ;  very  dismal  is  an  English 
December.  I  am  working  very  hard,  writing  constantly. 
The  greater  part  of  this  day  was  spent  at  the  Athenaeum; 
many  visitors,  but  no  subscribers. 

December  4-  Again  at  the  library  and  had  one  sub- 
scriber, A  letter  from  Charles  Bonaparte  tells  me  he  has 
decided  not  to  reside  in  America,  but  in  Florence ;  this  I 
much  regret.     I  have  been  reading  the  "  Travels  of  the 

*  The  distance  between  these  places  is  about  two  miles. 
^  The  Duck-billed   Platypus,    Ornithorynchus  paradoxus  of    Australia. 
—  E.G. 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


271 


my 
:sof 
n  to 
d  on 
the 

:  with 
teach 
that  I 
-colors 
si      1 
de  his 
alking. 
y  years 
land  in 
rounds, 
jt,  1  am 
ravel  at 
ndeed  I 
I  in  four- 
been  on 


Marquis  de  Chastellcu:. "  in  our  country,  which  contains 
very  valuable  and  correct  facts. 

December  10.  Mr.  Atherton,  a  relation  of  friend  Selby's, 
took  breakfast  with  me,  and  then  conducted  me  to  see  a 
very  beautiful  bird  (alive)  of  the  Eagle  kind,  from  the 
Andes.*  It  is  quite  unknown  to  me;  abojt  the  size  of  the 
Bird  of  Washington,  much  shorter  in  the  wings,  larger 
talons  and  longer  claws,  with  erected  feathers,  in  the  form 
of  a  fan,  on  the  head.  The  bill  was  dark  blue,  the  crest 
yellow,  upper  part  of  the  body  dark  brown ;  so  was  the 
whole  head  and  neck,  as  well  as  the  tail  and  vent,  but  the 
belly  and  breast  were  white.  I  soon  perceived  that  it  was  a 
young  bird ;  its  cry  resembled  that  of  almost  every  Eagle, 
but  was  weaker  in  sound  on  account  of  its  tender  age, 
not  exceeding  ten  months.  Were  I  to  give  it  a  name,  it 
would  be  the  Imperial  Crowned  Eagle.  It  was  fed  on  raw 
beef,  and  occasionally  a  live  fowl  by  way  of  a  treat  to  the 
by-standers,  who,  it  seems,  always  take  much  pleasure 
in  cruel  acts.  The  moment  I  saw  this  magnificent  bird  I 
wished  to  own  it,  to  send  it  as  a  present  to  the  Zoological 
Gardens.  I  received  a  letter  from  Thomas  Sully  telling 
me  in  the  most  frank  and  generous  manner  that  I  have 
been  severely  handled  in  one  of  the  Philadelphia  news- 
papers. The  editor  calls  all  I  said  in  my  papers  read 
before  the  different  societies  in  Edinburgh  "  a  pack  of 
lies."  Friend  Sully  is  most  heartily  indignant,  but  with 
me  my  motto  is :  "  Le  temps  decouvrira  la  v^rit^."  It  is, 
however,  hard  that  a  poor  man  like  me,  who  has  been  so 
devotedly  intent  on  bringing  forth  facts  of  curious  force, 
should  be  brought  before  the  world  as  a  liar  by  a  man 
who  doubtless  knows  little  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  forests 
on  the  Schuylkill,  much  less  of  those  elsewhere.  It  is 
both  unjust  and  ungenerous,  but  I  forgive  him.  I  shall 
keep  up  a  good  heart,  trust  to  my  God,  attend  to  my  work 
with  industry  and  care,  and  in  time  outlive  these  trifles. 

^  The  Andean  Eagle  is  undoubtedly  the  Harpy,  Thrasaetos harpyia. —  E.  C. 


272 


AUDUBON 


I 


December  h3.  I  went  this  evening  to  hear  the  Tyrolcse 
Singers,  three  brotlicrs  and  their  sister.  They  were  all 
dressed  in  the  costume  of  their  country,  but  when  they 
sang  I  saw  no  more ;  I  know  not  how  to  express  my  feel- 
ings. I  was  in  an  instant  transported  into  some  wild  {^Icn 
from  which  arose  high  mountain  crags,  which  threw  back 
the  melodious  echoes.  The  wild,  clear,  harmonious  music 
so  entered  into  my  being  that  for  a  time  I  was  not  sure 
that  what  I  heard  was  a  reality.  Imagine  the  warbling  of 
strong-throated  Thrushes,  united  with  the  bugle-horn,  a 
flute,  and  a  hautboy,  in  full  unison.  I  could  have  listened 
all  night. 

December  llf,  1S27.  By  the  advice  of  our  consul,  Mr. 
Maury,  I  have  presented  a  copy  of  my  work  to  the  Presi- 
dent of  the  United  States,  and  another  to  the  House  of 
Congress  through  Henry  Clay. 

December  16,  Sunday.  I  went  to  the  service  at  my  favor- 
ite church,  the  one  at  the  Blind  Asylum ;  the  anthems 
were  so  exquisitely  sung  that  I  felt,  as  all  persons  ought 
to  do  when  at  church,  full  of  fervent  devotion. 

December  IS.  It  was  with  great  regret  that  I  found  my 
friend  VVm.  Roscoe  very  unwell.  This  noble  man  has  had 
a  paralytic  attack;  his  mind  is  fully  sensible  of  the  decay 
of  his  body,  and  he  meets  this  painful  trial  with  patience 
and  almost  contentment.  This  only  can  be  the  case 
with  those  who  in  their  past  life  have  been  upright 
and  virtuous.  I  finished  drawing  a  little  Wren  for  my 
good  friend  Hannah,  as  well  as  artificial  lig^H  would 
allow. 

December  20.  I  have  done  nothing  to-day ;  I  have  had 
that  sort  of  laziness  that  occasionally  feeds  upon  my  senses 
unawares  ;  it  is  a  kind  of  constitutional  disease  with  me 
from  time  to  time,  as  if  to  give  my  body  necessary  rest, 
and  enable  me  to  recommence  with  fresh  vigor  and  alac- 
rity whatever  undertaking  I  have  in  hand.  When  it  has 
passed,  however,  I  always  reproach  myself  that  I  have  lost 


ti;  I 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


273 


CSC 

all 
hey 
•ccl- 
glcn 
back 
lusic 

sure 
rtg  of 
rn,  a 
itened 

1,  Mr. 

Presi- 

)use  of 


have  bad 
-[\y  senses 
with  me 
isary  rest, 
and  alac- 
len  it  has 


a  clay.  I  went  to  the  theatre  with  John  Chorley  to  see 
"  Tlie  Hypocrite;"  it  is  stolen  from  Moliere's  famous 
"Tartuffc,"  —  cut  and  sliced  to  suit  the  Knglish  market. 
I  finished  my  evening  by  reading  the  Life  of  Tasso. 

December  '24-  1  he  whole  town  appears  to  be  engaged 
in  purchasing  eatables  for  to-morrow.  I  saw  some  people 
carrying  large  nosegays  of  holly  ornamented  with  flowers  in 
imitation  of  white  roses,  carnations,  and  others,  cut  out  of 
turnips  and  carrots ;  but  I  heard  not  a  single  gun  fire,  no 
fireworks  going  on  anywhere,  —  a  very  ditTerent  time  to 
what  we  have  in  Louisiana.  I  spent  my  evening  with  Dr. 
Ruttcr  looking  at  his  valuable  collection  of  prints  of  the 
men  of  the  Revolution.  Poor  Charette,'  whom  I  saw  shot  on 
the  Place  de  Viarme  at  Nantes,  was  peculiarly  good,  as  were 
General  Moreau,  Napoleon,  when  Consul,  and  many  others ; 
and  Dr.  Rutter  knew  their  lives  well. 

December  25.  At  midnight  I  was  awakened  by  Dr. 
Munroe,  who  came  with  a  bottle  of  that  smoky  Scotch 
whiskey  which  I  can  never  like,  and  who  insisted  on  my 
taking  a  glass  with  him  in  honor  of  the  day.  Christmas 
in  my  country  is  very  different  indeed  from  what  I  have 
seen  here.  With  us  it  is  a  general  merry-making,  a  day 
of  joy.  Our  lads  have  guns,  and  fire  almost  all  night,  and 
dance  all  day  and  the  next  night.  Invitations  are  sent  to 
all  friends  and  acquaintances,  and  the  time  passes  more 
gayly  than  I  can  describe.  Here,  families  only  join  to- 
gether, they  go  to  church  together,  eat  a  very  good  dinner 
together,  I  daresay;  but  all  is  dull  —  silent — mournful. 
As  to  myself,  I  took  a  walk  and  dined  with  Mr.  Munroe 
and  family,  and  spent  a  quiet  evening  with  John  Chorley. 
This  is  my  Christmas  day  for  1827. 

December  28.  Immediately  after  breakfast  the  box  came 
containing  the  fifth  number,  and  three  full  sets  for  my  new 
subscribers  here.     The  work  pleased  me  quite. 

'  Fran9ois  Athanase  de  Charette,  a  leader  of  the  Vend^ans  against  the 
French  Republic;  executed  at  Nantes,  on  May  12,  1797. 

VOL.   I.  — 18 


m 


vti 


274 


AUDUBOJV 


December  29.  This  morning  I  walked  to  "  Lady  "  Rath- 
bone's  with  my  fifth  number.  It  is  quite  impossible  to 
approach  Green  Bank,  when  the  weather  is  at  all  fair,  with- 
out enjoying  the  song  of  some  birds ;  for,  Lucy,  that  sweet 
place  is  sacred,  and  all  the  feathered  tribe  in  perfect  safety. 
A  Redwing  particularly  delighted  me  to-day ;  I  found  some- 
thing of  the  note  of  our  famous  Mock-bird  in  his  melody. 

January  7,  1828,  Manchester.  How  many  times  since 
daylight  reached  my  eyes,  I  have  wished  thee,  my  Lucy, 
our  sons,  and  our  friends,  a  year  of  comfort,  of  peace  and 
enjoyment,  I  cannot  tell,  for  the  day  is  to  me  always  one 
on  which  to  pray  for  those  we  love.  Now,  my  Lucy,  when 
I  wished  thee  a  happy  New  Year  this  morning  I  emptied 
my  snuff  box,  locked  up  the  box  in  my  trunk,  and  will  take 
no  more.  The  habit  within  a  few  weeks  has  grown  upon 
me,  so  farewell  to  it;  it  is  a  useless  and  not  very  clean 
habit,  besides  being  an  expensive  one.  Snuff!  farewell  to 
thee.  Thou  knowest,  Lucy,  well  that  when  I  will  /  will.  I 
came  here  straight  to  friend  Sergeant's ;  I  need  not  say  I 
was  welcomed ;  and  Bentley  soon  came  in  to  spend  the 
evening  with  us. 

London,  January  5,  1828.  At  six  last  evening  I  was  in 
the  coach  with  three  companions;  I  slept  well  after  we 
stopped  for  supper  at  nine  o'clock,  but  not  long  enough. 
I  cannot  slee[  in  the  morning,  and  was  awake  four  long 
hours  befo'-'^'  day.  The  moon,  that  had  shone  brightly, 
sunk  in  the  wps;  as  day  dawned,  the  frost  appeared  thickly 
strewn  over  tlie  earth,  and  not  a  cloud  was  in  sight.  I  saw 
a  few  flocks  of  Partridges  on  their  roost,  which  thou  know- 
est well  is  on  the  ground,  with  their  heads  all  turned  to 
east,  from  which  a  gentle  waft  of  air  was  felt ;  the  cattle 
were  lying  here  and  there ;  a  few  large  flocks  of  Starlings 
were  all  that  interested  me.  The  dawn  was  clear,  but 
before  we  left  Northampton  it  rained,  snowed,  and  blew 
as  if  the  elements  had  gone  mad ;  strange  country,  to  be 


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275 


sure.  The  three  gentlemen  in  the  coach  with  me  suggested 
cards,  and  asked  me  to  take  a  hand ;  of  course  I  said  yes, 
but  only  on  condition  that  they  did  not  play  for  money,  a 
thing  I  have  never  done.  They  agreed  very  courteously, 
though  expressing  their  surprise,  and  we  played  whist  all 
day,  till  I  was  weary.  I  know  little  about  cards,  and  never 
play  unless  obliged  to  by  circumstances ;  I  feel  no  pleasure 
in  the  game,  and  long  for  other  occupation.  Twenty-four 
hours  after  leaving  Manchester,  we  stopped  at  the  Angel 
Inn,  Islington  Road.  I  missed  my  snuff  all  day;  when- 
ever my  hands  went  into  my  pockets  in  search  of  my  box, 
and  I  discovered  the  strength  of  habit,  thus  acting  without 
thought,  I  blessed  myself  that  my  mind  was  stronger  than 
my  body.  I  am  again  in  London,  but  not  dejected  and 
low  of  spirits  and  disheartened  as  I  was  when  I  came  in 
May  last;  no,  indeed  !  I  have  no^  friends  in  London,  and 
hope  to  keep  them. 

d5  Great  Russell  St.,  January  6.  I  took  a  famous  walk 
before  day,  up  to  Primrose  Hill,  and  was  back  before  any- 
one in  the  house  was  up.  I  have  spent  the  whole  day 
going  over  my  drawings,  and  decided  on  the  twenty-five 
that  are  to  form  the  numbers  for  1828.  The  new  birds  I 
have  named  as  follows:  Children,^  Vigors,^  Temminck, 
Cuvier.^  Havell  came  and  saw  the  drawings ;  it  gave  him 
an  idea  of  the  work  to  be  performed  between  now  and  next 
January. 

January  8.  I  have  ordered  one  set  of  my  birds  to  be 
colored  by  Havell  himself,  for  Congress,  and  the  numbers 
already  out  will  soon  be  en  route.  My  frame  maker  came 
in,  and  the  poor  man  took  it  for  granted  that  I  was  an 
artist,  bui:,  dear  me !  what  a  mistake ;  I  can  draw,  but  I 
shall  never  paint  well.     The  weather  is  extremely  dull  and 

*  Children's  Warbler.     Plate  xxxv. 

*  Vigors'  Warbler.     Plate  xxx. 

'  Cuvier's  Regulus.    Plate  Iv.    No  bird  was  named  after  Temminck  by 

Audubon. 


276 


AUDUBON 


gloomy ;  during  the  morning  the  light  was  of  a  deep 
yellow  cast. 

Jamiary  9.  Had  a  long  letter  from  John  Chorley,  and 
after  some  talk  with  my  good  friend  J.  G.  Children,  have 
decided  to  write  nothing  more  except  the  biographies  of  my 
birds.  It  takes  too  much  time  to  write  to  this  one  and  that 
one,  to  assure  them  that  what  I  have  written  is /act.  When 
Nature  as  it  is  found  in  my  beloved  America  is  better 
understood,  these  things  will  be  known  generally,  and 
when  I  have  been  dead  twenty  years,  more  or  less,  my 
statements  will  be  accepted  everywhere ;  till  then  they  may 
wait.^  I  have  a  violent  cough  and  sore  throat  that  ren- 
ders me  heavy  and  stupid ;  twenty-five  years  ago  I  would 
not  have  paid  it  the  least  attention ;  now  I  am  told  that 
at  my  age  and  in  this  climate  (which,  God  knows,  is  indeed 
a  very  bad  one),  I  may  have  trouble  if  I  do  not  take  some 
remedy.  I  walked  out  at  four  this  morning,  but  the  air 
was  thick  and  I  did  not  enjoy  it. 

January  10.  I  am  going  to  surprise  thee.  I  had  a 
dentist  inspect  my  teeth,  as  they  ached ;  he  thought  it  was 
the  effect  of  my  cold,  as  all  are  quite  perfect  and  I  have 
never  lost  one.  My  throat  continuing  very  sore,  I  remained 
in  my  rooms,  and  have  had  Havell,  Robert  Sully,  and  Mr. 
Children  ^or  companions. 

January  14-  I  feel  now  much  better,  after  several  fever- 
ish days,  but  have  not  moved  from  the  house;  every  one  of 
my  friends  show  me  much  kindness. 

January  17.  A  long  morning  with  Havell  settling  ac- 
counts ;  it  is  difficult  work  for  a  man  like  me  to  see  that  I 
am  neither  cheating  nor  cheated.  All  is  paid  for  1827,  and 
I  am  well  ahead  in  funds.     Had  I  made  such  regular  setde- 

1  This  decision  was  made  in  consequence  of  various  newspaper  and  per- 
sonal attacks,  which,  then  as  now,  came  largely  from  people  who  knew 
nothing  of  the  matter  under  consideration.  It  was  a  decision,  however,  never 
altered  except  in  so  far  as  regards  the  Episodes  published  in  the  "  Ornitho- 
logical Biography." 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


277 


merits  all  my  life,  I  should  never  have  been  as  poor  a  man 
as  I  have  been ;  but  on  the  other  hand  I  should  never 
have  published  the  "  Birds  of  America."  America !  my 
country !     Oh,  to  be  there  ! 

January  18.  Spent  the  morning  with  Dr.  Lambert  and 
Mr.  Don,*  the  famous  botanist;  we  talked  much  of  the 
plants  and  trees  of  America  and  of  Mr.  NuttalP  while 
opening  and  arranging  a  great  parcel  of  dried  plants  from 
the  Indies.  This  afternoon  I  took  a  cab  and  with  my 
portfolio  went  to  Mr.  Children's.  I  cannot,  he  tells  me, 
take  my  portfolio  on  my  shoulder  in  London  as  I  would  in 
New  York,  or  even  tenacious  Philadelphia. 

January  20.     Oh  !  how  dull  I  feel ;  how  long  am  I  to  be 
confined  in  this  immense  jail?     In  London,  amidst  all  the 
pleasures,  I  feel  unhappy  and  dull ;  the  days  are  heavy,  the 
nights  worse.     Shall   I  ever  again  see  and  enjoy  the  vast 
forests  in  their  calm  purity,  the  beauties  of  America?     I 
wish  myself  anywhere  but  in   London.      Why  do  I  dislike 
London }     Is  it  because  the  constant  evidence  of  the  con- 
trast between  the  rich  and  the  poor  is  a  torment  to  me,  or 
is  it  because  of  its  size  and  crowd?     I  know  not,  but  I  long 
for  sights  and  sounds  of  a  different  nature.     Young  Green 
came  to  ask  me  to  go  with  him  to  see  Regent's  Park,  and 
we  went  accordingly,  I  rather  an  indifferent  companion,  I 
fear,  till  we  reached  the  bridge  that   crosses   the  waters 
there,  where  I  looked  in  vain  for  water-fowl.     Failing  to 
find  any  I  raised  my  eyes  towards  the  peaceful  new  moon, 
and  to  my  astonishment  saw  a  large  flock  of  Wild  Ducks 
passing   over    me;    after   a  few  minutes  a  second    flock 
passed,  which  I  showed  my  young  friend.     Two  flocks  of 
Wild  Ducks,  of  upwards  of  twenty  each !     Wonderful  in- 
deed!    I   thought  of  the   many  I  have  seen  when  bent 


^  David  Don,  Scottish  botanist,  1800-1840;  at  this  time  Librarian  of 
Linnaean  Society. 

^  Ihomas  Nuttall,  botanist  and  ornithologist;  bom  in  England  1786, 
died  at  St.  Helen's,  England,  September  10,  1859. 


ft:':' 


f': 


278 


A  U DUB  ON 


i 


on  studying  their  habits,  and  grew  more  homesick  than 
ever. 

January  21.  Notwithstanding  this  constant  darkness  of 
mood,  my  business  must  be  attended  to ;  therefore  soon 
after  dawn  I  joined  Havell  and  for  many  hours  superin- 
tended his  coloring  of  the  plates  for  Congress.  While  I 
am  not  a  colorist,  and  Havell  is  a  very  superior  one,  I 
know  the  birds ;  would  to  God  I  was  among  them.  From 
here  I  went  to  find  a  bookseller  named  Wright,  but  I 
passed  the  place  twice  because  I  looked  too  high  for  his 
sign ;  the  same  occurs  to  young  hunters,  who,  when  first 
they  tread  the  woods  in  search  of  a  Deer,  keep  looking 
high,  and  far  in  the  distance,  and  so  pass  many  a  one  of 
these  cunning  animals,  that,  squatted  in  a  parcel  of  dry 
brush-wood,  sees  his  enemy  quite  well,  and  suffers  him  to 
pass  without  bouncing  from  his  couch.  The  same  instinct 
that  leads  me  through  woods  struck  me  in  the  Haymar- 
ket,  and  now  I  found  Mr.  Wright.  Our  interview  over,  I 
made  for  Piccadilly,  the  weather  as  mild  as  summer,  and 
the  crowd  innumerable.  Piccadilly  was  filled  with  car- 
riages of  all  sorts,  men  on  horseback,  and  people  every- 
where ;  what  a  bustle  ! 

January  22.  I  was  so  comfortless  last  night  that  I 
scarcely  closed  my  eyes,  and  at  last  dressed  and  walked 
off  in  the  dark  to  Regent's  Park,  led  there  because  there 
are  some  objects  in  the  shape  of  trees,  the  grass  is  green, 
and  from  time  to  time  the  sweet  notes  of  a  Blackbird  strike 
my  ear  and  revive  my  poor  heart,  as  it  carries  my  mind 
to  the  woods  around  thee,  my  Lucy.  As  daylight  came  a 
flock  of  Starlings  swept  over  my  head,  and  I  watched  their 
motions  on  the  green  turf  where  they  had  alighted,  until 
I  thought  it  time  to  return  to  breakfast,  and  I  entered  my 
lodgings  quite  ready  for  my  usual  bowl  of  bread  and  milk, 
which  I  still  keep  to  for  my  morning  meal ;  how  often 
have  I  partaken  of  it  in  simple  cabins,  much  more  to  my 
taste  than  all  the  pomp  of  London.     Drawing  all  day  long. 


^^■ 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


279 


January  23.  How  delighted  and  pleased  I  have  been 
this  day  at  the  receiving  of  thy  letter  of  the  ist  of  Novem- 
ber last.  My  Lucy,  thou  art  so  good  to  me,  and  thy 
advices  are  so  substantial,  that,  rest  assured,  I  will  follow 
them  closely. 

January  2Jf..  To  my  delight  friend  Bentley  appeared 
this  evening.  I  was  glad  I  could  give  him  a  room  while  he 
is  in  London.    He  brought  news  of  some  fresh  subscribers, 

and  a  letter  from  the   Rev.   D to  ask  to  be  excused 

from  continuing  the  work.  Query:  how  many  amongst 
my  now  long  list  of  subscribers  will  continue  the  work 
throughout? 

January  25.  I  usually  leave  the  house  two  hours 
before  day  for  a  long  walk ;  this  morning  it  was  again  to 
Regent's  Park ;  this  gives  me  a  long  day  for  my  v  ork. 
After  breakfast  Bentley  and  I  paid  a  long  visit  to  Mr.  Lead- 
beater,  the  great  stufTer  of  birds.  He  was  very  cordial,  and 
showed  us  many  beautiful  and  rare  specimens  ;  but  they 
were  all  stuffed,  and  I  cannot  bear  them,  no  matter  how 
well  mounted  they  may  be.  I  received  to-day  a  perpetual 
ticket  of  admission  to  Mr.  Cross's  exhibition  of  quadru- 
peds, live  birds,  etc.,  which  pleased  me  very  much,  for 
there  I  can  look  upon  Nature,  even  if  confined  in  iron 
cages.  Bentley  made  me  a  present  of  a  curiosity, — a 
"  double  penny "  containing  a  single  one,  a  half-penny 
within  that,  a  farthing  in  that,  and  a  silver  penny  within 
all.  Now,  my  Lucy,  who  could  have  thought  to  make  a 
thing  like  that? 

January  26.  Of  course  my  early  walk.  After  break- 
fast, Bentley  being  desirous  to  see  Regent's  Park,  I  accom- 
panied him  thither  and  we  walked  all  round  it;  I  think  it 
is  rather  more  than  a  mile  in  diameter.  We  saw  a  squad- 
ron of  horse,  and  as  I  am  fond  of  military  manoeuvres,  and 
as  the  horses  were  all  handsome,  with  full  tails,  well 
mounted  and  managed,  it  was  a  fine  sight,  and  we  both 
admired  it.     We  then  went  to  Mr.  Cross,  and  I  had  the 


■-  'i 


-L-- 


1    -A 


w 


280 


u  ' 


AUDUBON 


honor  of  riding  on  a  very  fine  and  gentle  elephant ;  I  say 
"  honor,"  because  the  immense  animal  was  so  well  trained 
and  so  obedient  as  to  be  an  example  to  many  human 

beings  who  are  neither.     The  Duchess  of  A came  in 

while  I  was  there,  —  a  large,  very  fat,  red-faced  woman,  but 
with  a  sweet  voice,  who  departed  in  a  coach  drawn  by 
four  horses  with  two  riders,  and  two  footmen  behind; 
almost  as  much  attendance  as  when  she  was  a  queen  on 
the  boards  of theatre,  thirty  years  ago. 

January  28.  I  received  a  letter  from  D.  Lizars  to-day 
announcing  to  me  the  loss  of  four  subscribers ;  but  these 
things  do  not  damp  my  spirits  half  so  much  as  the  smoke 
of  London.     I  am  as  dull  as  a  beetle. 

January  31.  I  have  been  in  my  room  most  of  this  day, 
and  very  dull  in  this  dark  town. 

February  1, 18%8.  Another  Journal !  It  has  now  twenty- 
six  brothers ;  ^  some  are  of  French  manufacture,  some  from 
Gilpin's  "  Mills  on  the  Brandywine,"  some  from  other  parts 
of  America,  but  you  are  positively  a  Londoner.  I  bought 
you  yesterday  from  a  man  across  the  street  for  fourteen 
shillings ;  and  what  I  write  in  you  is  for  my  wife,  Lucy 
Audubon,  a  matchless  woman,  and  for  my  two  Kentucky 
lads,  whom  I  do  fervently  long  to  press  to  my  heart  again. 

It  has  rained  all  day.  Bentlcy  and  I  paid  a  visit  to  the 
great  anatomist,  Dr.  J.  Brookes,^  to  see  his  collection  of 
skeletons  of  divers  objects.  He  received  us  with  extreme 
kindness.  I  saw  in  his  yard  some  few  rare  birds.  He  was 
called  away  on  sudden  and  important  business  before  we 
saw  his  museum,  so  we  are  to  go  on  Monday.  Mr.  Cross, 
of  the  Exeter  Exchange,  had  invited  Bcntley  and  me  to 
dinner  with  his  quadrupeds  and  bipeds,  and  at  three  o'clock 
we  took  a  coach,  for  the  rain  was  too  heavy  for  Bentley, 
and  drove  to  the  Menagerie.      Mr.    Cross  by  no    means 

1  Of  all  the  twenty-six  only  three  are  known  to  be  in  existence ;  the  other 
volumes  now  extant  are  all  of  later  date. 

3  Joshua  Brookes,  1 761-1833,  anatomist  and  surgeon. 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


281 


deserves  his  name,  for  he  is  a  pleasant  man,  and  we  dined 
with  his  wife  and  himself  and  the  keepers  of  the  BEASTS 
(name  given  by  men  to  quadrupeds).  None  of  the  com- 
pany were  very  polished,  but  all  behaved  with  propriety 
and  good  humor,  and  I  liked  it  on  many  accounts.  Mr. 
Cross  conversed  very  entertainingly.  Bcntley  had  two 
tickets  for  Drury  Lane  Theatre.  It  was  "  The  Critic  " 
again ;  immediately  after,  as  if  in  spite  of  that  good  lesson, 
"  The  Haunted  Inn  "  was  performed,  and  the  two  gentle- 
men called  Matthews  and  Litton  so  annoyed  me  with  their 
low  wit  that  I  often  thought  that,  could  Shakespeare  or 
Garrick  be  raised  from  their  peaceful  places  of  rest,  tears  of 
sorrow  would  have  run  down  their  cheeks  to  see  how 
abused  their  darling  theatre  was  this  night.  Bentley  was 
more  fortunate  than  I,  he  went  to  sleep.  At  my  rooms  I 
found  a  little  circular  piece  of  ivory  with  my  name,  fol- 
lowed by  "  and  friends,"  and  a  letter  stating  it  was  a  per- 
petual ticket  of  admission  to  the  Zoological  Gardens.  This 
was  sent  at  the  request  of  Mr.  Brookes. 

February  2.  Bentley  and  I  went  to  the  Gardens  of  the 
Zoological  Society,  which  are  at  the  opposite  end  of  Re- 
gent's Park  from  rny  lodgings.  The  Gardens  are  quite 
in  a  state  of  infancy ;  I  have  seen  more  curiosities  in  a 
swamp  in  America  in  one  morning  than  is  collected  here 
since  eighteen  months ;  all,  however,  is  well  planned,  clean, 
and  what  specimens  they  have  are  fine  and  in  good  con- 
dition. As  we  were  leaving  I  heard  my  name  called,  and 
turning  saw  Mr.  Vigors  with  a  companion  to  whom  he  in- 
troduced me ;  it  was  the  famous  Captain  Sabine,^  a  tall,  thin 
man,  who  at  once  asked  me  if  among  the  Eagles  they  had, 
any  were  the  young  of  the  White-headed  Eagle,  or  as  he 
called  the  bird,  the  Falco  lencoccphalus.  Strange  that  such 
great  men  should  ask  a  woodsman   questions  like   that, 

^  Captain  (Sir)  Edward  Sabine  accompanied  Parry's  expedition  to  the 
Arctic  regions,— a  mathematician,  traveller,  and  Fellow  of  the  Royal  Society, 
1819.    Born  in  Dublin,  1788,  died  in  Richmond,  1883. 


r    \. 


fT''-' 


282 


AUDUBON 


which  I  thought  could  be  solved  by  either  of  them  at  a 
glance.  I  answered  in  the  affirmative,  for  I  have  seen 
enough  of  them  to  know. 

February  4-  I  made  a  present  to  Bentley  of  the  first 
number  of  my  work,  and  some  loose  prints  for  his  brothers. 
Then  we  went  to  Mr.  Brookes,  the  surgeon,  and  saw  his 
immense  and  wonderful  collection  of  anatomical  subjects. 
The  man  has  spent  about  the  same  number  of  years  at  this 
work  as  I  have  at  my  own,  and  now  offers  it  for  sale  at 
;^  1 0,000.  I  then  called  on  Vigors  and  told  him  I  wished 
to  name  my  new  bird  in  No.  6  after  him,  and  he  expressed 
himself  well  pleased.  This  evening  I  took  my  portfolio  to 
Soho  Square  and  entered  the  rooms  of  the  Linnaean  So- 
ciety, where  I  found  I  was  the  first  arrival.  I  examined  the 
various  specimens  till  others  came  in.  The  meeting  was 
called  to  order,  and  I  was  shortly  after  elected  a  member; 
my  drawings  were  examined,  and  more  than  one  told  me 
it  was  a  sad  thing  they  were  so  little  known  in  London. 

February  7.  Havell  brought  me  the  sets  he  owed  me 
for  1827,  and  I  paid  him  in  full.  Either  through  him  or 
Mr.  Lizars  I  have  met  with  a  loss  of  nearly  ;^I00,  for  I  am 
charged  for  fifty  numbers  more  than  can  be  accounted  for 
by  my  agents  or  myself.  This  seems  strange  always  to  me, 
that  people  cannot  be  honest,  but  I  must  bring  myself  to 
believe  many  are  not,  from  my  own  experiences.  My 
evening  was  spent  in  Bruton  Street,  at  the  Zoological  So- 
ciety rooms,  where  Lord  Stanley  accompanied  me,  with 
Lord  Auckland  and  good  old  General  Hardwicke,  and  my 
portfolio  was  again  opened  and  my  work  discussed. 

February  10.  This  morning  I  took  one  of  my  drawings 
from  my  portfolio  and  began  to  copy  it,  and  intend  to 
finish  it  in  better  style.  It  is  the  White-headed  Eagle 
which  I  drew  on  the  Mississippi  some  years  ago,  feeding 
on  a  Wild  Goose;  now  I  shall  make  it  breakfast  on  a  Cat- 
fish, the  drawing  of  which  is  also  with  me,  with  the  marks 
of  the  talons  of  another  Eagle,  which  I  disturbed  on  the 


THE  EUROPEAN  fOURNALS 


283 


I  at  a 
;  seen 

e  first 
others, 
iaw  his 
ibjects. 
,  at  this 
sale  at 

wished 
[pressed 
tfolio  to 
sean  So- 
lined  the 
•ting  was 
member; 
;  told  me 
)ndon. 
owed  me 
fh  him  or 
i,  for  1  am 

,unted  for 

[ays  to  me, 

myself  to 

tees.     My 

logical  So- 
me, with 
:e,  and  my 

^ed. 
[y  drawings 
intend  to 

ided  Eag^« 
[go,  feeding 
it  on  a  Cat- 
the  marks 
»ed  on  the 


banks  of  that  same  river,  driving  him  from  his  prey.  I 
worked  from  seven  this  morning  till  dark. 

February  11.  Precisely  the  same  as  yesterday,  neither 
cross  nor  dull,  therefore,  but  perfectly  happy. 

February  12.  Still  hard  at  it,  and  this  evening  the 
objects  on  my  paper  look  more  like  a  bird  and  a  fish  than 
like  a  windmill,  as  they  have  done.  Three  more  days  and 
the  drawing  will  be  finished  if  I  have  no  interruptions. 

February  1^.  No  drawing  to-day ;  no,  indeed  !  At  nine 
this  morning  I  was  at  the  house  of  friend  Hays,  No.  21 
Queen  Street,  to  meet  the  Secretary  of  the  Colonial  Depart- 
ment. Mr.  Hays  showed  me  a  superb  figure  of  a  Hercules 
in  brass,  found  in  Franc*  by  a  peasant  while  ploughing, 
and  for  which  ;^300  has  been  refused. 

February  16.  Yesterday  I  worked  at  my  drawing  all 
day,  and  began  this  morning  at  seven,  and  worked  till  half- 
past  four,  only  ceasing  my  work  to  take  a  glass  of  milk 
brought  me  by  my  landlady.  I  have  looked  carefully  at 
the  effect  and  the  finishing.  Ah !  my  Lucy,  that  I  could 
paint  in  oils  as  I  can  in  my  own  style  !  How  proud  I  should 
be,  and  what  handsome  pictures  I  should  soon  have  on 
hand. 

February  24.  I  heard  to-day  of  the  death  of  Mrs.  Gregg 
of  Quarry  Bank.  I  was  grieved  to  know  that  kind  lady,  who 
had  showed  me  much  hospitality,  should  have  died;  I  have 
hesitated  to  write  to  her  son-in-law,  Mr.  Rathbone,  fearing 
to  disturb  the  solemnity  of  his  sorrow.  At  the  Linncean 
Society  this  evening,  my  friend  Selby's  work  lay  on  the 
table  by  mine,  and  very  unfair  comparisons  were  drawn 
between  the  two ;  I  am  quite  sure  that  had  he  had  the 
same  opportunities  that  my  curious  life  has  granted  me, 
his  work  would  have  been  far  superior  to  mine ;  I  supported 
him  to  the  best  of  my  power.  The  fact  is,  /  think,  that  no 
man  yet  has  done  anything  in  the  way  of  illustrating  the 
birds  of  England  comparable  to  his  great  work;  then 
besides,  he  is  an  excellent  man,  devoted  to  his  science,  and 


5  T:  I: 


rMf-'^  '  " 


[■  (  .  (■■;',f;r< 


284 


AUDUBON 


if  he  has  committed  slight  errors,  it  becomes  men  of  science 
not  to  dwell  upon  these  to  the  exclusion  of  all  else.  I  was 
to-day  elected  an  original  member  of  the  Zoological  So- 
ciety. I  also  learned  that  it  was  Sir  Thomas  Lawrence 
who  prevented  the  British  Museum  from  subscribing  to  my 
work ;  he  considered  the  drawing  so-so,  and  the  engraving 
and  coloring  bad ;  when  I  remember  how  he  praised  these 
same  drawings  in  my  presence,  I  wonder  —  that  is  all. 

February  '£0.  A  most  gloomy  day ;  had  I  no  work  what 
a  miserable  life  I  should  lead  in  London.  I  receive  con- 
stantly many  invitations,  but  all  is  so  formal,  so  cere- 
monious, I  care  not  to  go.  Thy  piano  sailed  to-day;  with 
a  favorable  voyage  it  may  reach  New  Orleans  in  sixty  days. 
I  have  read  the  Grand  Turk's  proclamation  and  sighed  at 
the  awful  thought  of  a  war  all  over  Europe;  but  there,  thou 
knowest  I  am  no  politician.  A  fine  young  man,  Mr.  J.  F. 
Ward,  a  bird-stuffer  to  the  King,  came  to  me  this  afternoon 
to  study  some  of  the  positions  of  my  birds.  I  told  him  I 
would  lend  him  anything  I  had. 

Fcbriuiry  28.  To-day  I  called  by  appointment  on  the 
Earl  of  Kinnoul,  a  small  man,  with  a  face  like  the  cari- 
cature of  an  owl ;  he  said  he  had  sent  for  me  to  tell  me 
all  my  birds  were  alike,  and  he  considered  my  work  a 
swindle.  He  may  really  think  this,  his  knowledge  is 
probably  small ;  but  it  is  not  the  custom  to  send  for  a 
gentleman  to  abuse  him  in  one's  own  house.  I  heard  his 
words,  bowed,  and  without  speaking,  left  the  rudest  man  I 
have  met  in  this  land ;  but  he  is  only  thirty,  and  let  us 
hope  may  yet  learn  how  to  behave  to  a  perfect  stranger 
under  his  roof. 

February  29.  A  man  entered  my  room  this  after- 
noon, and  said:  "Sir,  I  have  some  prisoners  to  deliver  to 
you  from  the  town  of  York."  "Prisoners!"  I  exclaimed, 
"why,  who  are  they.^"  The  good  man  produced  a  very 
small  cage,  and  I  saw  two  sweet  little  Wood  Larks,  full 
of  vivacity,  and  as  shy  as  prisoners  in  custody.     Their 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


285 


cnce 
[  was 
1  So- 
rcnce 
to  my 
raving 
,  these 

•k  what 
/e  con- 
0   cere- 
y;  with 
cty  clays, 
ighed  at 
ere, thou 

Mr.  3.F- 
afternoon 

old  him  I 

nt  on  the 
.  the  cari- 
;o  tell  me 
ly  work  a 
iwledge  is 
icnd  for  a 

heard  his 
[dest  man  1 
land  let  us 

;t  stranger 

[this   after- 
\  deliver  to 
[exclaimed, 
uced  a  very 
1  Larks,  fuU 
Idy.     T^^^' 


eyes  sparkled  with  fear,  their  little  bodies  were  agitated, 
the  motions  of  their  breasts  showed  how  their  hearts  pal- 
pitated ;  their  plumage  was  shabby,  but  they  were  Wood 
Larks,  and  I  saw  them  with  a  pleasure  bordering  on 
frenzy.  Wood  Larks !  The  very  word  carried  me  from 
this  land  into  woods  indeed.  These  sweet  birds  were 
sent  to  me  from  York,  by  my  friend  John  Backhouse,  an 
ornithologist  of  real  merit,  and  with  them  came  a  cake  of 
bread  made  of  a  peculiar  mixture,  for  their  food.  I  so 
admired  the  dear  captives  that  for  a  while  I  had  a  strong 
desire  to  open  their  pr  ,on,  and  suffer  them  to  soar  over 
London  towards  the  woodlands  dearest  to  them ;  and  yet 
the  selfishness  belonging  to  man  alone  made  me  long  to 
keep  them.  Ah  !  man  !  what  a  brute  thou  art !  —  so  often 
senseless  of  those  sweetest  feelings  that  ought  to  ornament 
our  species,  if  indeed  we  are  the  "  lords  of  creation." 

Cambridge,  March  3.  I  arrived  at  this  famous  Univer- 
sity town  at  half-past  four  this  afternoon,  after  a  tedious 
ride  of  eight  and  a  half  hours  from  London,  in  a  heavy 
coach  in  which  I  entered  at  the  White  Horse,  Fetter 
Lane,  and  I  am  now  at  the  Blue  Boar,  and  blue  enough 
am  I.  But  never  mind,  I  was  up  truly  early,  took  a  good 
walk  in  Regent's  Park,  and  was  back  before  any  one  in 
the  house  was  up.  Sully  took  breakfast  with  me,  and 
took  charge  of  my  Larks,  and  saw  me  off.  I  thought  we 
never  would  get  rid  of  London,  it  took  just  one  hour  to 
get  clear  of  the  city.  What  a  place !  Yet  many  persons 
live  there  solely  because  they  like  it.  At  last  the  re- 
freshing country  air  filled  my  lungs;  I  saw  with  pleasure 
many  tender  flowers  peeping  out  of  the  earth,  anxious  to 
welcome  the  approaching  spring.  The  driver  held  confi- 
dences with  every  grog  shop  between  London  and  Cam- 
bridge, and  his  purple  face  gave  powerful  evidences  that 
malt  liquor  is  more  enticing  to  him  than  water.  The 
country  is  flat,  but  it  was  country,  and  I  saw  a  few  lambs 
gambolling  by  their  timorous  dams,  a  few  Rooks  digging 


1^'r'r 


•'T" 


\Mv 


286 


AUDUBON 


the  new-ploughed  ground  for  worms,  a  few  Finches  on  the 
budding  hedges.  On  entering  Cambridge  I  was  struck 
with  its  cleanliness,  the  regular  shape  of  the  colleges,  and 
the  number  of  students  with  floating  mantles,  flat  caps, 
and  long  tassels  of  silk,  hanging  sideways.  I  had  a  letter 
for  a  lodging  house  where  I  expected  to  stay,  but  no  num- 
bers are  affixed  to  any  doors  in  Cambridge.  I  do  not 
know  if  it  is  so  in  order  to  teach  the  students  to  better 
remember  things,  but  I  found  it  very  inconvenient;  I 
hunted  and  searched  in  vain,  and  as  the  students  in  their 
gay  moods  have  been  in  the  habit  of  destroying  all  the 
door-bells,  i  had  to  knock  loudly  at  any  door  where  I 
wished  to  make  inquiries,  but  not  finding  the  good  lady 
to  whom  my  letter  was  addressed,  I  am  still  at  the  inn. 

March  4-     One  of  my  travelling-companions,  Mr. , 

an  architect,  offered  to  show  me  some  of  the  Colleges, 
and  put  me  in  the  way  of  delivering  some  of  my  letters;  so 
we  walked  through  the  different  courts  of  Trinity,  and  I 
was  amazed  at  the  exquisite  arrangement  of  the  buildings, 
and  when  we  arrived  at  the  walks  I  was  still  more  pleased. 
I  saw  beautiful  grass-plats,  fine  trees,  around  which  the 
evergreen,  dark,  creeping  ivy,  was  entwined,  and  heard 
among  the  birds  that  enlivened  these  the  shrill  notes  of 
the  Variegated   Woodpecker,  quite   enchanting.      As  I 
passed  under  these  trees  I  tried  to  recollect  how  many 
illustrious  learned  men  have  studied  within  the  compass 
of  their  shade.     A  little  confined,   but  pure  streamlet, 
called  the  Cam,  moved  slowly  on,  and  the  air  was  deli- 
cious.    We  went  to  St.  John's,  where  my  companion  was 
engaged  in  some  work,  and  here  I  left  him,  and  contin- 
ued on  my  way  alone,  to  deliver  my  letters.     I  called  on 
the  Rev.   H.   Greenwood,  Professor  Sedgwick,^  and  Pro- 
fessor Whewell ;  ^  all  were  mogt  kind,  as  were  the  Rev. 

*  Adam  Sedgwick,  geologist.    1785-1873. 

2  William  Whewell,  1795-1866,  Professor  of  Moral  Philosophy,  Mineral 
ogy,  and  other  sciences. 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURXALS 


287 


n  the 
truck 
3,  and 

caps, 

letter 
)  nvmv 
do  not 

better 
lent;  I 
in  their 

all  the 
where  1 
Dod  lady 
the  inn. 

Ax.  • > 

Colleges, 
etters;  so 
ity,  and  1 
buildings, 
■e  pleased, 
which  the 
and  heard 
11  notes  oi 


Tho.s.  Catton,  Mr.  G.  A.  Brown,  Mr.  George  Heath,  and 
Professor  Hcnslow,^  and  I  have  made  several  engagements 
to  dine,  etc. 

March  5.  Since  I  left  Edinburgh,  I  have  not  had  a 
day  as  brilliant  as  this  in  point  of  being  surrounded  by 
learned  men.  This  morning  I  took  a  long  walk  among 
the  Colleges,  and  watched  many  birds;  while  thus  em- 
ployed, a  well  dressed  man  handed  me  a  card  on  which 
was  written  in  English,  "The  bearer  desires  to  meet  with 
some  one  who  speaks  either  French,  Italian,  or  Spanish." 
I  spoke  to  him  in  Spanish  and  French,  both  of  which  he 
knew  well.  He  showed  me  a  certificate  from  the  consul 
of  Sweden,  at  Leith,  which  affirmed  his  story,  that  he 
with  three  sailors  had  been  shipwrecked,  and  now  wished 
to  return  to  the  Continent,  but  they  had  only  a  few  shill- 
ings,  and  none  of  them  spoke  English.  I  gave  him  a 
sovereign,  just  as  I  saw  Professor  Sedgwick  approach- 
ing; he  came  to  my  room  to  see  my  birds,  but  could  only 
give  me  a  short  time  as  he  had  a  lecture  to  deliver.  I 
returned  to  my  rooms,  and  just  as  I  was  finishing  lunch 
the  Vice-Chancellor  made  his  appearance,  —  a  small  old 
man,  with  hair  as  white  as  snow,  dressed  in  a  flowing 
gown,  with  two  little  bits  of  white  muslin  in  lieu  of 
cravat.  He  remained  with  me  upwards  of  two  hours;  he 
admired  my  work,  and  promised  to  do  all  he  could.  I 
was  delighted  with  his  conversation;  he  is  a  man  of  wide 
knowledge,  and  it  seemed  to  me  of  sound  judgment. 
Professor  Henslow  invited  me  to  dine  on  Friday,  and 
just  as  I  finished  my  note  of  acceptance,  came  in  with 
three  gentlemen.  At  four  I  went  to  Mr.  Greenwood's  to 
dine;  as  I  entered  I  saw  with  dismay  upwards  of  thirty 
gentlemen;  I  was  introduced  to  one  after  another,  and 
then  we  went  to  the  "  Hall,"  where  dinner  was  set.  This 
hall  resembled  the  interior  of  a  Gothic  church ;  a  short 
prayer  was  said,  and  we  sat  down  to  a  sumptuous  dinner. 
^  John  Stevens  Henslow,  botanist,  1796-1861. 


)  ''I 


288 


AUDUBON 


Eating  was  not  precisely  my  object,  it  seldom  is;  I 
looked  first  at  the  convives.  A  hundred  students  sat  apart 
from  our  table,  and  the  "Fellows,"  twelve  in  number, 
with  twenty  guests  constituted  our  "mess."  The  din- 
ner, as  I  said,  was  excellent,  and  I  thought  these  learned 
"  Fellows "  must  have  read,  among  other  studies,  Dr. 
Kitchener  on  the  "Art  of  Cookery."  The  students  grad- 
ually left  in  parcels,  as  vultures  leave  a  carcass;  we 
remained.  A  fine  gilt  or  gold  tankard,  containing  a  very 
strong  sort  of  nectar,  was  handed  to  me;  I  handed  it, 
after  tasting,  to  the  next,  and  so  it  went  round.  Now  a 
young  man  came,  and  as  we  rose,  he  read  a  short  prayer 
from  a  small  board  (such  as  butchers  use  to  kill  flies 
with).  We  then  went  to  the  room  where  we  had  assem- 
bled, and  conversation  at  once  began ;  perhaps  the  wines 
went  the  rounds  for  an  hour,  then  tea  and  coffee,  after 
which  the  table  was  cleared,  and  I  was  requested  to  open 
my  portfolio.  I  am  proud  now  to  show  them,  and  I  saw 
with  pleasure  these  gentlemen  admired  them.  I  turned 
over  twenty-five,  but  before  I  had  finished  received  tiie 
subscription  of  the  Librarian  for  the  University,  and  the 
assurance  of  the  Secretary  of  the  Philosophical  Society 
that  they  would  take  it.  It  was  late  before  I  was  allowed 
to  come  away. 

Thursday y  Mirch  6.  A  cold  snowy  day ;  I  went  to  the 
library  of  the  University  and  the  Philosophical  Society 
rooms,  and  dined  again  in  "Hall,"  with  Professor  Sedg- 
wick. There  were  four  hundred  students,  and  forty  "Fel- 
lows;" quite  a  different  scene  from  Corpus  College. 
Each  one  devoured  his  meal  in  a  hurry;  in  less  than  half 
an  hour  grace  was  read  again  by  two  students,  and  Pro- 
fessor Whewell  took  me  to  his  own  rooms  with  some 
eight  or  ten  others.  My  book  was  inspected  as  a  matter 
of  courtesy.  Professor  Sedgwick  was  gay,  full  of  wit 
and  cleverness;  the  conver.sation  was  very  animated,  and 
I  enjoyed  it  much.     Oh  !  my  Lucy,  that  I  also  had  re- 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


289 


Ls;  1 
apart 
mber, 
z  din- 
darned 
s,  Dr. 
s  grad- 
ss;  we 
r  a  very 
ided  it, 

Now  a 
t  prayer 
dU  flies 
\  assem- 
he  wines 
Eee,  after 
d  to  open 
and  1  saw 

1  turned 
;eived  the 
y,  and  the 
al  Society 


ceived  a  university  education !  I  listened  and  admired 
for  a  long  time,  when  suddenly  Professor  VVhewell  began 
asking  me  questions  about  the  woods,  the  birds,  the  abo- 
rigines of  America.  The  more  I  rove  about,  the  more  I 
find  how  little  known  the  interior  of  America  is;  we  sat 
till  late.  No  subscriber  to-day,  but  I  must  not  despair; 
nothing  can  be  done  without  patience  and  industry,  and, 
thank  God,  I  have  both. 

March  7.  The  frost  was  so  severe  last  night  that  the 
ground  was  white  when  I  took  my  walk;  I  saw  ice  an 
eighth  of  an  inch  thick.  As  most  of  the  fruit  trees  are  in 
blossom,  the  gardeners  will  suffer  this  year.  Inclement 
though  it  was,  the  birds  were  courting,  and  some,  such  as 
Jackdaws  and  Rooks,  forming  nests.  After  breakfast  I 
went  to  the  library,  having  received  a  permit,  and  looked 
at  three  volumes  of  Le  Vaillant's  "Birds  of  Africa," 
which  contain  very  bad  figures.  I  was  called  from  here 
to  show  my  work  to  the  son  of  Lord  Fitzwilliam,  who 
came  with  his  tutor,  Mr.  Upton.  The  latter  informed 
me  the  young  nobleman  wished  to  own  the  book.  I 
showed  my  drawings,  and  he,  being  full  of  the  ardor  of 
youth,  asked  where  he  should  write  his  name.  I  gave  him 
my  list;  his  youth,  his  good  looks,  his  courtesy,  his  re- 
finement attracted  me  much,  and  made  me  wish  his  name 
should  stand  by  that  of  some  good  friend.  There  was  no 
room  by  Mrs.  Rathbone's,  so  I  asked  that  he  write  imme- 
diately above  the  Countess  of  Morton,  and  he  wrote  in  a 
beautiful  hand,  which  I  wish  I  could  equal,  "  Hon.  W.  C. 
Wentworth  Fitzwilliam."  He  is  a  charming  young  man, 
and  I  wish  him  boti  voyage  through  life.  On  returning  to 
my  lodgings  this  evening,  my  landlord  asked  me  to  join 
him  in  what  he  called  "a  glass  of  home-brewed."  I  ac- 
cepted, not  to  hurt  his  feelings,  a  thing  I  consider  almost 
criminal;  but  it  is  muddy  looking  stuff,  not  to  my  taste. 

Saturday,  8th.     The  weather  bad,  but  my  eyes  and  ears 
were  greeted  by  more  birds  than  I  have  seen  yet  in  this 

VOL.  1.  — 19 


I: 


290 


AUDUBON 


country.  I  dined  at  the  Vice-Chancellor's,  and  found  my- 
self among  men  of  deep  research,  learning,  and  knowl- 
edge, —  mild  in  expressions,  kind  in  attentions,  and  under 
whom  I  fervently  wished  it  had  been  my  lot  to  have  re- 
ceived such  an  education  as  they  possess. 

Sunday,  March  9.     Cambridge  on  a  Sunday  is  a  place 
where  I  would  suppose  the  basest  mind  must  relax,  for  the 
time  being,  from  the  error  of  denying  the  existence  of  a 
Supreme  Being;  all  is  calm  —  silent  —  solemn  —  almost 
sublime.      The  beautiful  bells  fill  the  air  with  melody, 
and  the  heart  with  a  wish  for  prayer.     I  went  to  church 
with  Mr.  Whewell  at  Great  St.  Mary's,  and  heard  an  im- 
pressive sermon  on  Hope  from  Mr.  Henslow.     After  that 
I  went  to  admire  Nature,  as  the  day  was  beautifully  invit- 
ing.    Professor  Heath  of  King's  College  wished  me  to  see 
his  splendid  chapel,  and  with  a  ticket  of  admission  I  re- 
sorted there  at  three.     We  had  simple  hymns  and  prayers, 
the  former  softly  accompanied  by  the  notes  of  an  immense 
organ,  standing  nearly  in  the  centre  of  that  astonishing 
building;  the  chanters  were  all  young  boys  in  white  sur- 
plices.    I  walked  with  Mr.  Heath  to  Mr.  Whewell's,  and 
with  him  went  to  Trinity  Chapel.     The  charm  that  had 
held  me  all  day  was  augmented  many  fold  as  I  entered 
an  immense  interior  where  were  upward  of  four  hundred 
collegians  in  their  white  robes.     The  small  wax  tapers, 
the  shadowy  distances,  the  slow  footfalls   of  those  still 
entering,  threw  my  imagination  into  disorder.     A  kind 
of  chilliness   almost   as   of  fear   came  to   me,  my  lips 
quivered,  my  heart  throbbed,    I  fell   on   my  knees  and 
prayed  to  be  helped  and  comforted.     I  shall  remember 
this  sensation  forever,  my  Lucy.     When   at  Liverpool, 
I  always  go  to  the  church  for  the  blind;  did  I  reside 
at  Cambridge,  I  would  be  found  each  Sunday  at  Trinity 
Chapel. 

March  12.     I  was  introduced  to  Judge ,  on  his  way 

to  court,  —  a  monstrously  ugly  old  man,  with  a  wig  that 


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291 


dmy- 
Lnowl- 
under 
Lve  re- 

a.  place 
for  the 
ice  of  a 
-  almost 
melody, 
)  church 
d  an  im- 
iter  that 
lly  invit- 
:ne  to  see 
sion  I  re- 
i  prayers, 
,  immense 
stonishing 
white  sur- 
velVs,  and 
1  that  had 

I  entered 
At  hundred 
^'ax  tapers, 

those  stUl 
A  kiw^ 

,,  my  lips 

knees  and 
remember 
Liverpool, 

lid  1  reside 
at  Trinity 


might  make  a  capital  bed  for  an  Osage  Indian  during  the 
whole  of  a  cold  winter  on  the  Arkansas  River. 

LondoHy  March  15.  The  scene  is  quite  changed,  or 
better  say  returned,  for  I  am  again  in  London.  I  found 
my  little  Larks  as  lively  as  ever,  but  judge  of  my  pleas- 
ure when  I  found  three  letters  from  thee  and  Victor  and 
Johnny,  dated  Nov.  10,  Dec.  19,  and  Jan,  20.  What 
comfort  would  it  be  to  see  thee.  Havell  tells  me  a  hun- 
dred sets  of  No.  6  are  in  hand  for  coloring.  Mr.  David 
Lyon  called  to  see  my  work,  and  said  it  had  been  recom- 
mended to  him  by  Sir  Thos.  Lawrence.  This  seems 
strange  after  what  I  heard  before,  but  like  all  other  men 
Sir  Thomas  has  probably  his  enemies,  and  falsehoods 
have  been  told  about  him. 

March  20.  Called  on  Havell  and  saw  the  plate  of  the 
Parroquets  nearly  finished ;  I  think  it  is  a  beautiful  piece 
of  work.  My  landlady  received  a  notice  that  if  she  did 
not  pay  her  rent  to-morrow  an  officer  would  be  put  in 
possession.  I  perceived  she  was  in  distress  when  I  came 
in,  and  asking  her  trouble  gave  her  what  assistance  I 
could  by  writing  a  cheque  for  ;{^20,  which  she  has  prom- 
ised to  repay.  This  evening  I  went  to  Covent  Garden  to 
see  "Othello;"  I  had  an  excellent  seat.  I  saw  Kean, 
Young,  and  Kemble;  the  play  was  terrifyingly  well 
performed. 

Saturday,  March  20.  To-day  I  was  with  friend  Ser- 
geant most  of  the  time;  this  evening  have  paid  Havell  in 
full,  and  now,  thank  God,  feel  free  to  leave  noisy,  smoky 
London. 

Oxford,  March  2 If.  I  am  now  in  Oxford  the  clean,  and 
in  comfortable  lodgings.  I  arrived  at  four  o'clock,  shrunk 
to  about  one  half  my  usual  size  by  the  coldness  of  the 
weather,  having  ridden  on  top  of  the  coach,  facing  the 
northern  blast,  that  caused  a  severe  frost  last  night,  and 
has,  doubtless,  nipped  much  fruit  in  the  bud.  As  I  trav- 
elled I  saw  Windsor  Castle  about  two  miles  distant,  and 


292 


A  LTD  [/BOAT 


also  witnessed  the  turning  out  of  a  Stag  from  a  cart,  be- 
fore probably  a  hundred  hounds  and  as  many  huntsmen. 
A  curious  land,  and  a  curious  custom,  to  catch  an  animal, 
and  set  it  free  merely  to  catch  again.  We  crossed  the 
Thames  twice,  near  its  head;  it  docs  not  look  like  the 
Ohio,  I  assure  thee ;  a  Sand-hill  Crane  could  easily  wade 
across  it  without  damping  its  feathers. 

March  25.  My  feet  are  positively  sore  battering  the 
pavement ;  I  have  walked  from  one  house  and  College  to 
another  all  day,  but  have  a  new  subscriber,  and  one  not 
likely  to  die  soon,  the  Anatomical  School,  through  Dr. 
Kidd.^  He  and  I  ran  after  each  other  all  day  like  the 
Red-headed  Woodpeckers  in  the  spring.  I  took  a  walk 
along  two  little  streams,  bearing  of  course  the  appellation 
of  rivers,  the  Isis  and  the  Charwell ;  the  former  freezes 
I  am  told  at  the  bottom,  never  at  the  top.  Oxford  seems 
larger  than  Cambridge,  but  is  not  on  the  whole  so  pleas- 
ing to  me.  I  do  not  think  the  walks  as  fine,  there  are 
fewer  trees,  and  the  population  is  more  mixed.  I  have 
had  some  visitors,  and  lunched  with  Dr.  Williams,  who 
subscribed  for  the  Radcliffe  Library,  whither  we  both 
went  to  inspect  the  first  number.  When  I  saw  it,  it 
drew  a  sigh  from  my  heart.  Ah !  Mr.  Lizars !  was  this 
the  way  to  use  a  man  who  paid  you  so  amply  and  so 
punctually  ?  I  rolled  it  up  and  took  it  away  with  me,  for 
it  was  hardly  colored  at  all,  and  have  sent  a  fair  new  set 
of  five  numbers.  I  dined  at  the  Vice-Chancellor's  at  six; 
his  niece,  Miss  Jenkins,  did  the  honors  of  the  table  most 
gracefully.  There  were  ten  gentlemen  and  four  ladies, 
and  when  the  latter  left,  the  conversation  became  more 
general.  I  was  spoken  to  about  Wilson  and  C.  Bona- 
parte, and  could  heartily  praise  both. 

March  27.     Breakfasted  with  Mr.  Hawkins,  Provost  of 
Oriel  College,  and  went  immediately  after  with  him  to 

1  Dr.  John  Kidd,  1775-1851,  Professor  of  Chemistry  and  Medicine  at 
Oxford. 


I 


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293 


,be- 
men. 
imal, 
i  the 
e  the 
wade 

ig  the 

ege  to 

ne  not 

ghDr. 

ike  the 
a  walk 

ellation 
freezes 

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here  are 
I  have 

ims,  who 
we  both 
lw  it,  it 
was  this 

ly  and  so 

[h  me,  for 
,r  new  set 
's  at  six; 
able  most 
ur  ladies, 
|ame  more 
C.  Bona- 


the  Dean  of  Trinity.  The  large  salon  was  filled  with 
ladies  and  gentlemen  engaged  with  my  work;  my  draw- 
ings followed,  and  I  showed  them,  but,  oh,  Lucy,  how 
tired  I  am  of  doing  this.  The  Dean  has,  I  think,  the  fin- 
est family  of  daughters  I  have  ever  seen;  eight  blooming, 
interesting  young  ladies;  from  here  to  Dr.  Kidd,  where 
was  another  room  full  of  company  to  see  my  drawings. 
Among  my  visitors  was  Dr.  Ed.  Burton,^  who  invited  me 
to  breakfast  to-morrow. 

March  28.  Never  since  I  was  at  the  delightful  Green 
Bank,  or  at  Twizel  House  have  I  had  so  agreeable  a 
breakfast  as  I  enjoyed  this  morning.  I  was  shown  into  a 
neat  parlor  giving  on  a  garden,  and  was  greeted  by  a  very 
beautiful  and  gracious  woman ;  this  was  Mrs.  Burton.  Dr. 
Burton  came  in  through  the  window  from  the  garden;  in 
a  moment  we  were  at  table  and  I  felt  at  once  at  home,  as 
if  with  my  good  friend  "  Lady  "  Rathbonc.  Dr.  and  Mrs. 
Burton  have  an  astonishing  collection  of  letters,  portraits, 
etc.,  and  I  was  asked  to  write  my  name  and  the  date  of 
my  birth  as  well  as  the  present  date.  The  former,  I 
could  not  do,  except  approximately,  and  Mrs.  Burton  was 
greatly  amused  that  I  should  not  know ;  what  I  do  know 
is  that  I  am  no  longer  a  young  man.  A  letter  from  Mr. 
Hawkins  told  me  Dr.  Buckland^  was  expected  to-morrow, 
and  I  was  asked  to  meet  him  at  dinner  at  his  own  house 
by  Mrs.  Buckland.  I  dined  with  the  Provost  of  Oriel  and 
nine  other  gentlemen,  among  them  the  son  of  the  re- 
nowned Mr.    Wilberforce. 

March  29.  To-morrow,  probably,  I  leave  here,  and 
much  disappointed.  There  are  here  twenty-two  colbges 
intended  to  promote  science  in  all  its  branches;  I  have 
brought  here  samples  of  a  work  acknowledged  to  be  at 
least  good,  and  not  one  of  the  colleges  has  subscribed.  I 
have  been  most  hospitably  treated,  but  with  so  little  en- 

*  Edward  Burton,  D.D.,  1794-1836,  Professor  of  Divinity  at  Oxford. 

*  William  Buckland,  D.D.,  1784-1856,  geologist. 


t 

S  -  - 
i 

L  .  - 

r 

V 


■"jT^mmm 


m 


294 


AUDUBON 


couragement  for  my  work  there  is  no  reason  for  me  to 
remain. 

London,  March  SO.  Left  Oxford  at  eleven  this  morn- 
ing, the  weather  still  intensely  cold.  We  had  a  guard 
dressed  in  red  with  sizable  buttons,  a  good  artist  on  the 
bugle,  who  played  in  very  good  style,  especially  fugues 
and  anthems,  which  were  harmonious  but  not  cheerful. 
I  saw  a  poor  man  and  his  wife  trudging  barefoot  this 
weather,  a  sight  which  drew  the  rings  of  my  purse  asun- 
der. Almost  as  soon  as  I  reached  my  lodgings  a  gentle- 
man, Mr.  Loudon,^  called  to  ask  me  to  write  zoological 
papers  for  his  journal.  I  declined,  for  I  will  never  write 
anything  to  call  down  upon  me  a  second  volley  of  abuse. 
I  can  only  write  facts,  and  when  I  write  those  the  Phila- 
delphians  call  me  a  liar. 

April  i,  1828.  I  have  the  honor  to  be  a  Fellow  of  the 
Linnaean  Society  of  London,  quite  fresh  from  the  mint, 
for  the  news  reached  me  when  the  election  was  not  much 
more  than  over.  Mr.  Vigors  tells  me  Baron  Cuvier  is  to 
be  here  this  week.  I  had  some  agreeable  time  with  a 
gentleman  from  Ceylon,  Bennett^  by  name,  who  has  a 
handsome  collection  of  fish  from  that  place. 

April  2.  Called  on  Mr.  Children,  and  together  we 
walked  to  Mr.  Havell's,  where  he  saw  the  drawings  for 
No.  7.  How  slowly  my  immense  work  progresses;  yet 
it  goes  on  apace,  and  may  God  grant  me  life  to  see  it 
accomplished  and  finished.  Then,  indeed,  will  I  have 
left  a  landmark  of  my  existence. 

April  3.  I  have  had  many  corrections  to  make  to  my 
Prospectus,  which  have  taken  much  time.  I  also  exam- 
ined many  of  my  drawings,  which  I  thougiit  had  suffered 
exceedingly  from  the  damp;  this  quite  frightened  me. 
What  a  misfortune  it  would  be  if  they  should  be  spoiled, 

1  John  Claudius  Loudon,  1783-1843,  writer  on  horticulture  and  arbori- 
culture.    In  1828-1836,  editor  of  the  "  Magazine  of  Natural  History." 

2  Edward  Turner  Bennett,  1 797-1836,  zoologist. 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


^95 


le  to 

norn- 
guard 
in  the 
ugues 
jeriul. 
ot  this 
;  asun- 
sentle- 
•logical 
;r  write 
abuse. 
J  Phila- 

w  of  the 
le  mint, 
lot  much 
vier  is  to 
e  with  a 
ho  has  a 


for  few  men  would  attempt  the  severe  task  I  have  run 
through,  I  think.  And  as  to  me,  alas!  I  am  growing  old, 
and  although  my  spirits  are  as  active  as  ever,  my  body  de- 
clines, and  perhaps  I  never  could  renew  them  all.  I  shall 
watch  them  carefully.  Indeed,  should  I  find  it  necessary, 
I  will  remove  them  to  Edinburgh  or  Paris,  where  the 
atmosphere  is  less  dangerous. 

April  6.  I  have  not  written  a  word  for  three  days, 
because,  in  truth,  I  have  little  to  mention.  Whenever  I 
am  in  this  London  all  is  alike  indifferent  to  me,  and  I 
in  turn  indifferent.  Ah!  my  love,  on  a  day  like  this  in 
America  I  could  stroll  in  magnificent  woods,  I  could  lis- 
ten to  sounds  fresh  and  pure,  I  could  look  at  a  d/ue  sky, 
Mr.  Loudon  called  and  said  he  was  anxious  to  have  a 
review  of  my  work  in  his  magazine,  and  would  write  to 
Mr.  Wm.  Swainson,^  a  naturalist  and  friend  of  Dr. 
Traill's,  to  do  so.  He  again  begged  me  to  write  an 
article  for  him,  for  which  he  would  pay  eight  guineas; 
but  no,  I  will  write  no  more  for  publication  except,  as 
has  been  urged,  to  accompany  my  own  pictures. 

April  10.  I  have  now  only  one  set  on  hand ;  I  had  fif- 
teen when  I  went  to  Cambridge.  I  hope  soon  to  hear 
from  Liverpool ;  the  silence  of  a  friend  sometimes  terri- 
fies me ;  I  dread  to  learn  that  my  venerable,  good  "  Lady  " 
Rathbone  is  ill. 

April  IJf.  I  cannot  conceive  why,  but  my  spirits  have 
been  much  too  low  for  my  own  comfort.  I  thought 
strongly  of  returning  to  America;  such  a  long  absence 
from  thee  is  dreadful.  I  sometimes  fear  we  shall  never 
meet  again  in  this  ivorld.  I  called  on  Havell,  who  showed 
me  the  White-headed  Eagle,  a  splendid  plate  indeed,  and 
nearly  finished. 

April  17.  I  did  but  little  yesterday,  I  was  quite  un- 
well; in  the  afternoon  I  walked  to  Bruton  St.  and  saw 

'  William  Swainson,  naturalist  and  writer.  Born  in  England  1789,  emi- 
grated in  1841  to  New  Zealand,  where  he  died  1855. 


296 


AUDUBON 


Mr.  Vigors,  who  assisted  me  in  the  nomenclature  of  the 
Hawk  for  Lord  Stanley.  This  afternoon  I  received  a  let- 
ter from  Mr.  Wm.  Swainson,  inviting  me  to  go  to  spend 
a  day  with  him.  My  work  continues  to  be  well  received, 
and  as  I  have  a  tolerable  list  of  subscribers  I  hope  it  will 
continue  to  improve. 

April  21.  The  same  feelings  still  exist  this  year  that 
I  felt  last,  during  my  whole  stay  in  London.  I  hate  it, 
yes,  I  cordially  hate  London,  and  yet  cannot  escape  from 
it.  I  neither  can  write  my  journal  when  here,  nor  draw 
well,  and  if  I  walk  to  the  fields  around,  the  very  voice 
of  the  sweet  birds  I  hear  has  no  longer  any  charm  for 
me,  the  pleasure  being  too  much  mingled  with  the  idea 
that  in  another  hour  all  will  again  be  bustle,  filth,  and 
smoke.  Last  Friday,  when  about  to  answer  Mr.  Swain- 
son's  letter,  I  suddenly  thought  that  it  would  be  best  for 
me  to  go  to  see  him  at  once.  The  weather  was  shock- 
ing ;  a  dog  would  scarce  have  turned  out  to  hunt  the  fin- 
est of  game.  I  dined  at  two,  and  went  to  a  coach  office, 
when,  after  waiting  a  long  time,  the  coachman  assured  me 
that  unless  I  had  been  to  Mr.  Swainson's  before,  it 
would  be  madness  to  go  that  day,  as  his  house  lay 
off  from  the  main  road  fully  five  miles,  and  it  was  a 
difficult  place  to  find;  moreover,  the  country,  he  said, 
was  swimming.  This  is  the  first  advice  I  have  ever 
had  from  a  coachman  to  stop  me  from  paying  my  fare; 
I  thanked  him,  and  returned  home,  and  wrote  to  Mr. 
Swainson ;  then  walked  twice  round  Kensington  Gar- 
dens, most  dull  and  melancholy.  Ah !  cannot  I  return 
to  America.'' 

April  2^.  I  have  been  so  harassed  in  mind  and  body, 
since  ten  days,  that  I  am  glad  to  feel  partially  relieved  at 
last.  All  the  colorers  abandoned  the  work  because  I 
found  one  of  theii  amber  was  doing  miserable  daubing, 
and  wished  him  dismissed  unless  he  improved;  but  now 
they  are  all  replaced. 


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297 


3£  the 
a  let- 
spend 
:eivecl, 
it  will 

;ar  that 
hate  it, 
pe  from 
or  draw 
ry  voice 
larm  for 
the  idea 
ilth,  and 
■.  Swain- 
i  best  for 
ras  shock- 
it  thefin- 
ach  office, 
^ssured  me 
before,  it 
house  lay 

it  was  a 
he  said, 

have  ever 
my  fare; 

ate  to  Mr. 

igton  Gar- 

3t  I  return 

and  body, 

relieved  at 

because  1 

le  daubing, 

;d;  but  now 


May  1.  Mr.  Swainson  has  published  a  review  of  my 
work  in  Mr.  Loudon's  magazine,  and  how  he  has  raised 
my  talents.  Would  that  I  could  do  as  well  as  he  says  I 
do;  then  indeed  would  my  pencil  be  eager  to  portray  the 
delicate  and  elegant  contours  of  the  feathered  tribe,  the 
softness  of  their  plumage,  and  their  gay  movements. 
Alas,  now  I  must  remain  in  London  overlooking  engrav- 
ers, colorers,  and  agents.  Yet  when  I  close  my  eyes  I 
hear  the  birds  warbling,  nay,  every  sound ;  the  shriek  of 
the  Falcon,  the  coy  Doves  cooing;  the  whistling  note 
of  the  Grackle  seems  to  fill  my  ear,  again  I  am  in  the 
cornfield  amidst  millions  of  these  birds,  and  then,  trans- 
ported afar,  I  must  tread  lightly  and  with  care,  to  avoid 
the  venomous  Rattler.  I  sent  the  first  proof  of  the 
White-headed  Eagle  to  the  Marquis  of  Landsdowne;  he 
being  the  president  of  the  Zoological  Society,  I  thought 
it  courteous  to  do  so. 

Sunday,  May  4-  Immediately  after  breakfast  I  went 
out  with  George  Woodley,  and  walked  to  the  pretty  vil- 
lage called  Hampstead.  The  rain  that  fell  last  night 
seemed  only  sufficient  to  revive  nature's  productions;  the 
trees  were  lightly  covered  with  foliage  of  a  tender  hue; 
the  hawthorns  dispersed  along  the  thickets  had  opened 
their  fragrant  cups,  the  rich  meadows  showed  promise  of 
a  fair  crop.  Here  and  there  a  shy  Blackbird's  note  burst 
clearly,  yet  softly,  while  the  modest  Blackcap  skipped 
across  our  way.  I  enjoyed  it  all,  but  only  transiently ;  I 
felt  as  if  I  must  return  to  the  grand  beauties  of  the  Wes- 
tern World,  so  strong  is  the  attachment  impressed  in  man 
for  his  own  country.  I  have  been  summing  up  the  pros 
and  cons  respecting  a  voyage  to  America,  with  an  absence 
of  twelve  months.  The  difficulties  are  many,  but  I  am 
determined  to  arrange  for  it,  if  possible.  I  should  like 
to  renew  about  fifty  of  my  drawings ;  I  am  sure  that  now 
I  could  make  better  compositions,  and  select  better  plants 
than  when  I  drew  merely  for  amusement,  and  without  the 


B'1 


298 


AUDUBON 


thought  of  ever  bringing  them  to  public  view.  To  effect 
this  wish  of  mine,  I  must  find  a  true,  devoted  friend  who 
will  superintend  my  work  and  see  to  its  delivery  —  this  is 
no  trifle  in  itself.  Then  I  must  arrange  for  the  regular 
payments  of  twelve  months'  work,  and  that  is  no  trifle; 
but  when  I  consider  the  difficulties  I  have  surmounted, 
the  privations  of  all  sorts  that  I  have  borne,  the  many 
hairbreadth  escapes  I  have  had,  the  times  I  have  been 
near  sinking  under  the  weight  of  the  enterprise  —  ah! 
such  difficulties  as  even  poor  Wilson  never  experienced 
—  what  reasons  have  I  now  to  suppose,  or  to  make  me 
think  for  a  moment,  that  the  omnipotent  God  who  gave 
me  a  heart  to  endure  and  overcome  all  these  difficulties, 
will  abandon  me  now.  No!  my  faith  is  the  same  —  my 
desires  are  of  a  pure  kind ;  I  only  wish  to  enjoy  more  of 
Him  by  admiring  His  works  still  more  than  I  have  ever 
done  before.  He  will  grant  me  life.  He  will  support 
me  in  my  journeys,  and  enable  me  to  meet  thee  again  in 
America. 

May  G.  I  walked  early  round  the  Regent's  Park,  and 
there  purchased  four  beautiful  little  Redpolls  from  a 
sailor,  put  them  in  my  pocket,  and,  when  arrived  at 
home,  having  examined  them  to  satisfy  myself  of  their 
identity  with  the  one  found  in  our  country,  I  gave  them 
all  liberty  to  go.  What  pleasure  they  must  have  felt  ris- 
ing, and  going  off  over  London;  and  I  felt  pleasure  too, 
to  know  they  had  the  freedom  I  so  earnestly  desired. 

May  10.  I  received  a  long  letter  from  Charles  Bona- 
parte, and  perceived  it  had  been  dipped  in  vinegar  to 
prevent  it  from  introducing  the  plague  from  Italy  to 
England. 

June  2.  I  was  at  Mr.  Swainson's  from  May  28  till  yes- 
terday, and  my  visit  was  of  the  most  agreeable  nature. 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Swainson  have  a  charming  home  at  Titten- 
hanger  Green,  near  St.  Albans.  Mrs.  Swainson  plays 
well  on  the  piano,  is  amiable  and  kind;  Mr.   Swainson 


THE  E  U ROPE  A  N  JO  URN  A  LS 


299 


effect 

i  who 

:his  is 

egular 

trifle; 

lunted, 

;  many 

e  been 

e  — ahl 

;rienccd 

lake  me 

ho  gave 

iculties, 

ne  — my 

'  more  of 

lave  ever 

support 

again  in 

Park,  and 
s  from  a 
,rrived  at 
|f  of  their 

ave  them 

'e  felt  ris- 
jiasure  too, 

,ired. 
Irles  Bona- 

vinegar  to 
Italy  to 


a  superior  man  indeed;  and  their  children  blooming  with 
health  and  full  of  spirit.  Such  talks  on  birds  we  have 
had  together.  Why,  Lucy,  thou  wouldst  think  that  birds 
were  all  that  we  cared  for  in  this  world,  but  thou  knowest 
this  is  not  so.  Whilst  there  I  began  a  drawing  for  Mrs. 
Swainson,  and  showed  Mr.  Swainson  how  to  put  up  birds 
in  my  style,  which  delighted  him. 

Aui^ustd.  More  than  two  months  have  passed  since  I 
have  opened  my  journal  —  not  through  idleness,  but  be- 
cause, on  the  contrary,  I  have  been  too  busy  with  my 
plates,  and  in  superintending  the  coloring  of  them,  and 
with  painting.  I  wished  again  to  try  painting  in  oil,  and 
set  to  with  close  attention,  day  after  day,  and  have  now 
before  me  eight  pictures  begun,  but  not  one  entirely  fin- 
ished. I  have  a  great  desire  to  exhibit  some  of  these  in 
this  wonderful  London.  One  of  these  pictures  is  from 
my  sketch  of  an  Eagle  pouncing  on  a  Lamb,^  dost  thou 
remember  it .-'  They  are  on  the  top  of  a  dreary  mountain ; 
the  sky  is  dark  and  stormy,  and  I  am  sure  the  positions 
of  the  bird  and  his  prey  are  wholly  correct.  M/  drawing 
is  good,  but  the  picture  at  present  shows  great  coldness 
and  want  of  strength.  Another  is  a  copy  of  the  very 
group  of  Black  Cocks,  or  Grouse,  ior  which  Mr.  Gaily 
paid  me  ;^ioo,  and  I  copy  it  with  his  permission;  if  it  is 
better  than  his,  and  I  think  it  will  be,  he  must  exchange, 
for  assuredly  he  should  own  the  superior  picture.  The 
others  are  smaller  and  less  important.  With  the  excep- 
tion of  such  exercise  as  has  been  necessary,  and  my  jour- 
neys (often  several  times  a  day)  to  Havell's,  I  have  not 
left  my  room,  and  have  labored  as  if  not  to  be  painting 
was  a  heinous  crime.  I  have  been  at  work  from  four 
every  morning  till  dark ;  I  have  kept  up  my  large  corre- 
spondence, my  publication  goes  on  well  and  regularly, 
and  this  very  day  seventy  sets  have  been  distributed ;  yet 

'  This  picture  is  still  in  the  family,  being  owned  by  one  of  the  grand- 
daughters. 


lU',- 


^•■■lim 


300 


AUDUBON 


the  number  of  my  subscribers  has  not  increased;  on  the 
contrary,  I  have  lost  some. 

I  have  met  a  Mr.  Parker,  whom  I  once  knew  in  Natchez; 
he  asked  me  to  permit  him  to  paint  my  portrait  as  a 
woodsman,  and  though  it  is  very  tiresome  to  me,  I  have 
agreed  to  his  request.  The  return  of  Captain  Basil  Hall 
to  England  has  rather  surprised  me;  he  called  on  meat 
once;  he  had  seen  our  dear  Victor,  Mr.  Sully,  Dr.  Har- 
lan, and  many  of  my  friends,  to  whom  I  had  given  him 
letters,  for  which  he  thanked  me  heartily.  lie  has  seen 
much  of  the  United  States,  but  says  he  is  too  true  an 
Englishman  to  like  things  there.  Time  will  show  his 
ideas  more  fully,  as  he  told  me  he  should  publish  his 
voyage,  journeys,  and  a  number  of  anecdotes. 

August  10.  My  usual  long  walk  before  breakfast,  after 
which  meal  Mr.  Parker  took  my  first  sitting,  which  con- 
sisted merely  of  the  outlines  of  the  head ;  this  was  a  job 
of  more  than  three  hours,  much  to  my  disgust.  We  then 
went  for  a  walk  and  turned  into  the  Zoological  Gardens, 
where  we  remained  over  an  hour.  I  remarked  two  large 
and  beautiful  Beavers,  seated  with  the  tail  as  usual  under 
the  body,  their  forelegs  hanging  like  those  of  a  Squirrel. 

August  13.  I  wrote  to  Mr.  Swainson  asking  if  he  could 
not  accompany  me  to  France,  where  he  said  he  wished  to 
go  when  we  were  talking  together  at  Tittenhanger. 

August  19.  My  absence  from  this  dusty  place  has 
prevented  my  writing  daily,  but  I  can  easily  sum  up. 
Thursday  afternoon  on  returning  from  Havell's,  I  found 
Mr.  Swainson  just  arrived.  He  had  come  to  take  me  to 
Tittenhanger  Green,  where  the  pure  air,  the  notes  of  the 
birds,  the  company  of  his  wife  and  children,  revived  my 
drooping  spirits.  How  very  kind  this  was  of  him,  espe- 
cially when  I  reflect  on  what  a  short  time  I  have  known 
him.  We  procured  some  powder  and  shot,  and  seated 
ourselves  in  the  coach  for  the  journey.  Just  as  we  were 
leaving  London  and  its  smoke,  a  man  begged  I  would 


THE  FMROPEAN  JOURNALS 


301 


on  the 

atchez; 
it  as  a 
,  I  have 
ill  Hall 
)n  me  at 
)r.  Har- 
ven  him 
has  seen 
)  true  an 
show  his 
iblish  his 

:fast,  after 

fhich  con- 
was  a  job 
We  then 

I  Gardens, 

I  two  large 

isual  under 
a  Squirrel, 
if  he  could 
e  wished  to 

iger. 
place  has 

ly  sum  up. 

J's,  Hound 
take  me  to 
notes  of  the 
revived  tny 

|f  him,  espe- 
have  known 
and  seated 
it  as  we  were 
ged  1  would 


take  a  paper  bag  from  him,  containing  a  Carrier  Pigeon, 
and  turn  it  out  about  five  miles  off.  The  poor  bird  could 
have  been  put  in  no  better  hands,  I  am  sure;  when  I 
opened  the  bag  and  launched  it  in  the  air,  I  wished  from 
my  heart  I  had  its  powers  of  flight;  I  would  have  ventured 
across  the  ocean  to  Louisiana.  At  Tittenhanger  Mrs. 
Swainson  and  her  darling  boy  came  to  meet  us,  and  we 
walked  slowly  to  the  house;  its  happy  cheer  had  great  in- 
fluence on  my  feelings.  Our  evening  was  spent  in  look- 
ing over  Levaillant's^  work.  We  discovered,  to  the 
great  satisfaction  of  my  friend,  two  species  of  Chatterers, 
discovered  by  the  famous  traveller  in  Africa;  until  now 
our  American  species  stood  by  itself,  in  the  mind  of  the 
naturalist.  My  time  afterwards  was  spent  in  shooting, 
painting,  reading,  talking,  and  examining  specimens. 
But,  my  Lucy,  the  most  agreeable  part  of  all  this  is  that 
we  three  have  decided  to  go  to  Paris  about  the  first  of 
September,  from  there  probably  to  Brussels,  Rotterdam, 
and  possibly  Amsterdam. 

August  20.  Messrs.  Children  and  Gray^  of  the  British 
Museum  called  to  see  me  this  afternoon,  and  we  talked 
much  of  that  establishment.  I  was  surprised  when  Mr. 
Gray  told  me  ;^200  per  annum  was  all  that  was  allowed 
for  the  purchase  of  natural  curiosities.  We  were  joined 
by  Captain  Basil  Hall.  I  now  feel  more  and  more  con- 
vinced that  he  has  not  remained  in  America  long  enough, 
and  that  his  judgment  of  things  there  must  be  only  super- 
ficial. Since  these  gentlemen  left  I  have  written  to 
Charles  Bonaparte  a  long  letter,  part  of  which  I  copy  for 
thee:  "My  Sylvia  roscoe,  is,  I  assure  you,  a  distinct  spe- 
cies from  Vieillot's;  my  Turdus  aquaticus  is  very  differ- 
ent from  Wilson's  Water  Thrush,  as  you  will  see  when 
both  birds  are  published.  Mine  never  reaches  further 
south   than    Savannah,    its   habits   are    quite    different. 

^  Fran9ois  Levaillant,  bom  at  Paramaribo,  1753;  died  in  France,  1824. 
*  John  Edward  Gray,  1800-1875,  zoologist. 


f   : . 


\M^ 


302 


AUDUBON 


Troglodytes  bewickii  is  a  new  and  rather  a  rare  species, 
found  only  in  the  lowlands  of  the  Mississippi  and  Louis- 
iana.    I  have  killed  five  or  six  specimens,  and  it  differs 
greatly  from  Troglodytes  ludoviciamts  ;  I  wish  I  had  a  spe- 
cimen to  send  you.     I  particularly  thank  you  for  your 
observations,  and  I  hope  that  you  will  criticise  my  work 
at  all  points,  as  a  good  friend  should  do,  for  how  am  I  to 
improve  if  not  instructed  by  men  of  superior  talents?    I 
cannot   c'  termine  at  present  about  ' Stanleii,'  because  I 
never  have  seen   the  Falco  you   mention.      My  bird  is 
surely  another  found  in  the  south  and  north,  but  a  very 
rare  species  in  all  my  travels ;  when  you  see  the  two  fig- 
ures, size  of  life,  then  you  will  be  able  to  judge  and  to 
inform  me.     My  journey  to  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  is 
always  uppermost  in  my  mind,  and  I  look  to  my  return 
from  that  country  to  this  as  the  most  brilliant  portion  of 
my  life,  as  I  am  confident  many  new  birds  and  plants 
must  be  there,  yet  unknown  to  man.     You  are  extremely 
kind  to  speak  so  favorably  of  my  work,  and  to  compare  it 
with  your  own ;  it  would  be  more  worthy  of  that  compari- 
son, perhaps,  if  I  had  had  the  advantages  of  a  classical 
education ;  all  I  deserve,  I  think,  is  the  degree  of  encour- 
agement due  to  my  exertions  and  perseverance  in  figuring 
exactly  the  different  birds,  and  the  truth  respecting  their 
habits,  which  will  appear  in  my  text.     However,  I  accept 
all  your  kind  sayings  as  coming  from  a  friend,  and  one 
himself  devoted  to  that  beautiful  department  of  science, 
Ornithology."     My  subscribers  are  yet  far  from  enough 
to  pay  my  expenses,  and  my  purse  suffers  severely  for 
the  want  of  greater  patronage.     The  Zoological  Gardens 
improve  daily ;  they  are  now  building  winter  quarters  for 
the  animals  there.     The  specimens  of  skins  from  all  parts 
of  the  world  which  are  presented  there  are  wonderful,  but 
they  have  no  place  for  them. 

Ajtgust  25.     I  have  had  the  pleasure  of  a  long  letter 
from  our  Victor,  dated  July  20 ;  this  letter  has  reached  me 


""-.»»^' 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


303 


species, 
Louis- 

;  differs 

Lcl  a  spe- 

for  your 

my  work 

r  am  I  to 

ents  ?    I 

)ecause  I 

yT  bird  is 

lut  a  very 

e  two  fig- 

3-e  and  to 

)lumbia  is 

my  return 

portion  of 

ind  plants 
extremely 

compare  it 

it  compari- 

a  classical 
of  encour- 
in  figuring 

;cting  their 
r,  I  accept 
,d,  and  one 
of  science, 
•om  enough 
icverely  for 
;al  Gardens 
[warters  for 
»m  all  parts 
,derful,  but 

long  letter 
reached  me 


more  rapidly  than  any  since  I  have  been  in  England.  I 
am  becoming  impatient  to  start  for  Paris.  I  do  not  ex- 
pect much  benefit  by  this  trip,  but  I  shall  be  glad  to  see 
what  may  be  done.  Mr.  Parker  has  nearly  finished  my 
portrait,  which  he  considers  a  good  one,  and  so  do  I.^  He 
has  concluded  to  go  to  Paris  with  us.  so  we  shall  be  quite 
a  party.  Mr.  Vigors  wrote  asking  me  to  write  some  pa- 
pers for  the  "Zoological  Journal,"  but  I  have  refused  him 
as  all  others.  No  money  can  pay  for  abuse.  This  after- 
noon I  had  a  visit  from  a  Mr.  Kirkpatrick,  who  bought 
my  picture  of  the  Bantams. 

August  29.  I  packed  up  my  clothes  early  this  morning 
and  had  my  trunk  weighed,  as  only  forty  pounds  are  al- 
lowed to  each  person.  I  also  put  my  effects  to  rights,  and 
was  ready  to  start  for  anywhere  by  seven. 

August  30.  While  Mr.  Swainson  was  sitting  with  me, 
old  Bewick  and  his  daughters  called  on  me.  Good  old 
man!  how  glad  I  was  to  see  him  again.  It  was,  he  said, 
fifty-one  years  since  he  had  been  in  London,  which  is  no 
more  congenial  to  him  than  to  me.  He  is  now  seventy- 
eight,  and  sees  to  engrave  as  well  as  when  he  was  twenty 
years  of  age. 

Dover,  September  1,  1828.  Now,  my  dear  book,  pre- 
pare yourself  for  a  good  scratching  with  my  pen,  for  I  have 
entered  on  a  journey  that  I  hope  will  be  interesting.  I 
had  breakfast  at  six  with  Mr.  Parker;  we  were  soon  joined 
by  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Swainson  and  proceeded  to  the  office  in 
Piccadilly,  where  we  took  our  seats  in  the  coach.  At  the 
"  Golden  Cross  "  in  Charing  Cross  we  took  up  the  rest  of 
our  cargo.  Bless  me  !  what  a  medley !  A  little,  ill-look- 
ing Frenchman —  who  fastened  a  gilt  balancing-pole  wider 
the  coach,  and  put  his  wife  and  little  daughter  on  top,  — 
four  men  all  foreigners,  and  a  tall,  rather  good-looking 
demoiselle,  with  a  bonnet  not  wanting  in  height  or  breadth 
or  bows  of  blue  ribbon,  so  stiff  they  must  have  been 
1  No  trace  of  this  portrait  can  be  found. 


304 


A  UDUBON 


starched.  She  took  her  seat  on  top  of  the  coach  and 
soared  aloft,  like  a  Frigate  Pelican  over  the  seas.  We 
started  at  eight  and  were  soon  out  of  London,  The  pure 
air  of  the  country  animated  my  spirits,  and  all  were  gay. 
We  passed  over  Black  Heath,  through  Hartford  and 
Canterbury,  the  first  a  poor,  dirty-looking  place,  the  latter 
quite  the  contrary.  The  majestic  cathedral  rose  above 
every  other  object,  like  one  of  God's  monuments  made  to 
teach  us  His  glory.  The  country  more  hilly,  on  an  average, 
than  any  part  of  this  island  I  have  yet  seen,  but  the  land 
very  poor.  We  saw  the  Thames  several  times,  and  the  sea 
at  a  great  distance.  The  river  Medway,  which  we  crossed 
at  Rochester,  is  influenced  by  the  tides  as  far  as  that  town. 
About  six  miles  from  this  little  seaport  we  suddenly  saw 
Dover  Castle,  which  with  the  sea  and  the  undulating  land- 
scape made  a  pretty  picture.  As  soon  as  we  arrived  we 
all  went  to  see  the  cliffs  that  rise  almost  perpendicularly 
along  the  shore,  the  walks  crowded  with  persons  come  to 
see  the  regatta  to-morrow. 

Paris,  September  4-  I  arrived  here  this  morning  at 
seven  o'clock,  and  I  assure  thee,  my  Lucy,  that  I  and  all 
my  companions  were  pleased  to  get  rid  of  the  diligence, 
and  the  shocking  dust  that  tormented  us  during  our  whole 
journey.  We  left  Dover  at  one,  on  Tuesday,  2d ;  the  wind 
blew  sharply,  and  I  felt  that  before  long  the  sea  would 
have  evil  effects  on  me,  as  it  always  has.  We  proceeded 
towards  Calais  at  a  good  rate,  going  along  the  shores  of 
England  until  opposite  the  French  port,  for  which  we 
then  made  direct,  and  landed  after  three  and  a  half  hours' 
beating  against  wind  and  water.  As  soon  as  we  landed 
we  left  our  luggage  and  passports  with  a  Commissionaire, 
and  went  to  dine  at  H6tel  Robart,  where  we  had  been 
recommended.  Our  still  sickly  bodies  were  glad  to  rest, 
and  there  our  passports  were  returned  to  us.  I  was  much 
tickled  to  read  that  my  complexion  was  copper  red ;  as  the 
Monsieur  at  the  office  had  never  seen  me,  I  suppose  the 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


305 


e  pure 
■e  gay. 
d    and 
e  latter 
above 
iiade  to 
iverage, 
[he  land 
I  the  sea 
;  crossed 
\at  town, 
enly  saw 
;ing  land- 
rrived  we 
idicularly 
5  come  to 


word   American   suggested    that   all   the   natives    of   our 
country  were  aborigines.     We  then  entered  the  diligence, 
a  vehicle  ugly  and  clumsy  in  the  extreme,  but  tolerably 
comfortable  unless  over-crowded,  and  it  travelled  from  six 
to  seven  miles  an  hour,  drawn  generally  by  five  horses,  two 
next  the  coach,  and  three  abreast  before  those ;  the  driver 
rides  on  the  near  wheel-horse  dressed  precisely  like  the 
monlceys  in  shows  of  animals.    Calais  is  a  decaying  fortified 
town ;  the  ditches  are  partly  filled  with  earth,  and  I  cannot 
tell  why  there  should  exist  at  this  time  a  drawbridge.     As 
we  proceeded  it  did  not  take  much  time  to  see  already 
many  differences   between   France   and  England.     I  will 
draw  no  parallel  between  these  countries,  I  will  merely  tell 
thee  what   I  saw.     The  country  is  poorly  cultivated,  al- 
though  the    land    is    good.     No    divisions    exist  to    the 
eye,  no  cleanly  trimmed  hedges,  no  gates,  no  fences;  all 
appeared   to   me    like    one  of  the  old  abandoned   cotton 
plantations  of  the  South.    I  remarked  that  there  were  more 
and  taller  trees  than    in  England,  and  nearly  the  whole 
road  was  planted  like  the  avenue  to  a  gentleman's  house. 
The  road   itself  was  better   than  I  had    expected,  being 
broad,  partly  macadamized,  and  partly  paved  with  square 
stones;  I  found  it  much  alike  during  the  whole  journey. 
Night  coming  on  we  lost  the  means  of  observation  for  a 
time,  and  stopped  soon  after  dark  for  refreshment,  and  had 
some  excellent  coffee.     I  assure  thee,  Lucy,  that  coffee  in 
France  is  certainly  better  than  anywhere  else.     We  passed 
through  St.  Omer,  and  a  little  farther  on  saw  the  lights  of 
the  fires  from  an  encampment  of  twelve  thousand  soldiers. 
Breakfast  was  had  at  another  small  village,  where  we  were 
sadly  annoyed  by  beggars.     The  country  seems  very  poor  ; 
the  cottages  of  the  peasants  are  wretched  mud  huts.     We 
passed  through  the  Departments  of  Artois  and  Picardy, 
the  country  giving  now  and  then    agreeable   views.     We 
dined  at  Amiens,  where  the  cathedral  externally  is  magnif- 
icent.   After  travelling  all   night   again,   we   found   our- 

VOL.  1,-20 


P,||^^;?r-7f,— ^ 5 


rsM'< 


if 


1 


^IP 

, 

IB 

■ 

306 


A  UDUBON 


selves  within  forty  miles  of  Paris,  and  now  saw  patches  of 
vineyards    and  found  fruit  of  all   kinds  cheap,  abundant, 
and  good.    We  were  put  down  at  the  Messagerie  Royale  rue 
des  Victoires,  and  I  found  to  my  sorrow  that  my  plates 
were  not  among  the  luggage ;  so  I  did  what  I  could  about 
it,  and  we  went  to  lodgings  to  which  we  had  been  recom- 
mended, with    M,   Percez.     Mrs.  Swainson's  brother,  Mr. 
Parkes,  came  to  see  us  at  once,  and  we  all  went  to  the 
Jardin  des  Plantes,  or  Jardin  du  Roi,  which  fronts  on  a 
very   bad    bridge,   built    in   great   haste   in   the   days  of 
Napoleon,  then  called  Le  pont  d'Austerlitz,  but  now  Le  pont 
Ste.  Genevieve.     I  thought  the  gardens  well  laid  out,  large, 
handsome,  but  not  everywhere  well  kept.     We  saw  every- 
thing, then  walked  to  the  entrance  of  the  famous  Musee; 
it  was   closed,    but   we   knocked   and    asked    for    Baron 
Cuvier.^     He  was   in,  but,  we  were  told,  too  busy  to  be 
seen.     Being  determined   to  look  at  the  Great  Man,  we 
waited,  knocked  again,  and  with  a  certain  degree  of  firm- 
ne.s  sent  our  names.     The  messenger  returned,  bowed,  and 
led  the  way  upstairs,  where  in  a  minute  Monsieur  le  Baron, 
like  an  excellent  good  man,  came  to  us.     He  had  heard 
much  of  my  friend  Swainson  and  greeted  him  as  he  deserves 
to  be  greeted ;   he  was  polite  and  kind  to  me,  though  my 
name  had  never  made  its  way  to  his  ears.     I  looked  at 
him,  and  here  follows   the  result:    age   about  sixty-five; 
size  corpulent,  five  feet  five,  English  measure;  head  large; 
face    wrinkled    and    brownish;    eyes    gray,   brilliant  and 
sparkling;    nose   aquiline,  large   and    red;    mouth  large, 
with  good  lips ;  teeth  few,  blunted  by  age,  excepting  one 
on  the  lower  jaw,  measuring  nearly  three-quarters  of  an 
inch  square.     Thus,  my  Lucy,  have  I   described  Cuvier 
almost  as  if  a  new  species  of  man.     He  has  invited  us  to 
dine  with  him  next  Saturday  at  six,  and  as  I  hope  to  have 

1  George  Chretien  Leopold  Fr^d^ric  Dagobert  Cuvier,  Baron,  1769-1832; 
statesman,  author,  philosopher,  and  one  of  the  greatest  naturalists  of 
modern  times. 


TH?:  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


307 


ches  of 
andant, 
(7ale  rue 
T  plates 
d  about 
t  recom- 
ler,  Mr. 
t  to  the 
nts  on  a 
days  of 
V  Le  pont 
)ut,  large, 
aw  every- 
is  Musee; 
or    Baron 
,usy  to  be 
t  Man,  we 

ee  of  /''"«' 
bowed,  and 
ir  le  Baron, 
had  heard 
he  deserves 
hough  my 
looked  at 
sixty-ftve; 
head  large; 
rilliant  and 
louth  large, 
cepting  one 
irters  of  an 
ibed  Cuvier 
nvited  us  to 
^ope  to  have 

,ron,i769-'832', 
naturalists  ot 


many  opportunities  of  seeing  him  I  will  write  more  as  I 
become  acquainted  with  him.  After  dinner  Mr.  Parker 
and  I  went  roving  anywhere  and  everywhere,  but  as  it 
grew  dark,  and  Paris  is  very  badly  lighted,  little  can  I 
say,  more  than  that  we  saw  the  famous  Palais  Royal,  and 
walked  along  each  of  its  four  avenues.  The  place  was 
crowded,  and  filled  with  small  shops,  themselves  filled  with 
all  sorts  of  bagatelles. 

September  5.  After  breakfast,  which  was  late  but  good, 
consisting  of  grapes,  figs,  sardines,  and  French  coffee, 
Swainson  and  I  proceeded  to  Les  Jardins  des  Plantes,  by 
the  side  of  the  famous  river  Seine,  which  here,  Lucy,  is 
not  so  large  as  the  Bayou  Sara,  where  I  have  often  watched 
the  Alligators  while  bathing.  Walking  in  Paris  is  disagree- 
able in  the  extreme;  the  streets  are  paved,  but  with 
scarcely  a  sidewalk,  and  a  large  gutter  filled  with  dirty 
black  water  runs  through  the  centre  of  each,  and  the  people 
go  about  without  any  kind  of  order,  in  the  centre,  or  near 
the  houses;  the  carriages,  carts,  etc.,  do  the  same,  and  I 
have  wondered  that  so  few  accidents  take  place.  We  saw  a 
very  ugly  bridge  of  iron  called  the  Pont  Neuf,  and  the 
splendid  statue  of  Henri  Quatre.  We  were,  however,  more 
attracted  by  the  sight  of  the  immense  numbers  of  birds 
offered  for  sale  along  the  quays,  and  some  were  rare 
specimens.  A  woman  took  us  into  her  house  and  showed 
us  some  hundreds  from  Bengal  and  Senegal,  and  I  assure 
thee  that  we  were  surprised.  We  proceeded  to  our  ap- 
pointment with  Baron  Cuvier,  who  gave  us  tickets  for  the 
Mus6e,  and  promised  all  we  could  wish.  At  the  Mus^e 
M.  Valenciennes  ^  was  equally  kind.  Having  a  letter  for 
M,  Geoffroy  de  St.  Hilaire,^  we  went  to  his  house  in  the 
Jardins,  and  with  him  we  were  particularly  pleased.  He 
proved  to  me  that  he  understood  the  difference  in  the  ideas 
of  the  French  and  English  perfectly.     He  repeated   the 

^  Achille  Valenciennes,  born  1794,  French  naturalist. 

*  Etienne  Geoffroy  de  St.  Hilaire,  1772-1844,  French  naturalist. 


^ 


3o8 


AUDUBON 


m 
■11 


words  of  Cuvier  and  assured  us  my  work  had  not  been  heard 
of  in  France.  He  promised  to  take  us  to  the  Acad6mie 
des  Sciences  on  Monday  next.  I  left  Swainson  at  work  in 
the  Mus^e,  and  went  to  the  Louvre.  There,  entering  the 
first  open  door,  I  was  shown  into  the  pubHc  part  of  the 
King's  Appartement,  a  thing  I  have  never  been  able  to 
accomplish  in  England.  I  saw  the  room  where  the  grand 
councils  are  held,  and  many  paintings  illustrating  the 
horrors  of  the  French  Revolution.  Then  to  the  galleries 
of  painting  and  sculpture,  where  I  found  Parker,  and  saw  a 
number  of  artists  copying  in  oil  the  best  pictures.  This 
evening  we  went  to  the  Theatre  Fran^ais,  where  I  saw  the 
finest  drop  curtain  I  have  yet  beheld,  and  a  fine  tragedy, 
Fi^sque,  which  I  enjoyed  much. 

September  6.  The  strange  things  one  sees  in  this  town 
would  make  a  mountain  of  volumes  if  closely  related ;  but 
I  have  not  time,  and  can  only  speak  to  thee  of  a  few. 
After  our  breakfast  of  figs  and  bread  and  butter,  Swainson 
and  I  went  down  the  Boulevard  to  the  Jardins  Royaux. 
These  boulevards  are  planted  with  trees  to  shade  them, 
and  are  filled  with  shops  containing  more  objects  of  luxury 
and  of  necessity  than  can  well  be  imagined.  The  boule- 
vard we  took  is  a  grand  promenade,  and  the  seat  of  great 
bargains.  I  mean  to  say  that  a  person  unacquainted  with 
the  ways  of  the  French  petif  marchand  may  be  cheated 
here,  with  better  grace,  probably,  than  anywhere  else  in 
the  world ;  but  one  used  to  their  tricks  may  buy  cheap 
and  good  articles.  In  the  afternoon  we  went  again  to  the 
Louvre,  and  admired  the  paintings  in  the  splendid  gallery, 
and  lunched  on  chicken,  a  bottle  of  good  wine,  vegetables 
and  bread,  for  thirty-five  sous  each.  Evening  coming  on, 
we  proceeded,  after  dressing,  to  Baron  Cuvier's  house  to 
dine.  We  were  announced  by  a  servant  in  livery,  and 
received  by  the  Baron,  who  presented  us  to  his  only  re- 
maining daughter, —  a  small,  well-made,  good-looking  lady, 
with  sparkling  black  eyes,  and  extremely  amiable.     As  I 


leard 
16mie 
jrkin 
ig  the 
of  the 
ble  to 
grand 
ig  the 
alleries 
i  saw  a 
..    This 
saw  the 
tragedy, 


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309 


seldom  go  anywhere  without  meeting  some  one  who  has 
met  me,  I  found  among  the  guests  a  Fellow  of  the  Lin- 
naean  Society,  who  knew  me  well.  The  Baroness  now 
came  in  —  a  good-looking,  motherly  lady,  and  the  com- 
pany, amounting  to  sixteen,  went  to  dinner.  The  Baron- 
ess led  the  way  with  a  gentleman,  and  the  Baron  took  in 
his  daughter,  but  made  friend  Swainson  and  me  precede 
them;  Swainson  sat  next  mademoiselle,  who,  fortunately 
for  him,  speaks  excellent  English.  I  was  opposite  to  her, 
by  the  side  of  the  Baron.  There  was  not  the  show  of  opu- 
lence at  this  dinner  that  is  seen  in  the  same  rank  of  life  in 
England,  no,  not  by  far,  but  it  was  a  good  dinner,  served 
d.  la  fran^aise.  All  seemed  happy,  and  went  on  with 
more  simplicity  than  in  London.  The  dinner  finished,  the 
Baroness  rose,  and  we  all  followed  her  into  the  library.  I 
liked  this  much;  I  cannot  bear  the  drinking  matches  of 
wine  at  the  English  tables.  We  had  coffee,  and  the  com- 
pany increased  rapidly;  amongst  them  all  I  knew  only 
Captain  Parry,  M.  de  CondoUeot  (?),  and  Mr.  Lesson,^ 
just  returned  from  a  voyage  round  the  world.  Cuvier 
stuck  to  us,  and  we  talked  ornithology ;  he  asked  me  the 
price  of  my  work,  and  I  gave  him  a  prospectus.  The 
company  filled  the  room,  it  grew  late,  and  v/e  left  well  sat- 
isfied with  the  introductory  step  among  Ics  savans  frangais. 
Sunday,  September  7.  The  traveller  who  visits  France 
without  seeing  a  fete,  such  as  I  have  seen  this  day  at  St. 
Cloud,  leaves  the  country  unacquainted  with  that  species 
of  knowledge  best  adapted  to  show  the  manners  of  a  peo- 
ple. St.  Cloud  is  a  handsome  town  on  the  Seine,  about 
five  miles  below  Paris,  built  in  horseshoe  form  on  the  un- 
dulating hills  of  this  part  of  the  country.  These  hills  are 
covered  with  woods,  through  which  villas,  cottages,  and 
chateaux  emerge,  and  give  life  to  the  scene.  On  the  west 
side  of  the  village,  and  on  its  greatest  elevation,  stands  the 

^  Ren^   Primev^re  Lesson,  a  French  naturalist  and  author,  born  at 
Rochefort,  1794,  died  1849. 


'■; 


310 


AUDUBON 


Palace  of  the  Kings,  the  Emperors,  and  the  people.  I  say 
the  people,  because  they  are  allowed  to  see  the  interior 
every  day.  With  Parker,  I  took  a  cab  directly  after  break- 
fast to  the  barridre  dcs  bons  hommes,  and  walked  the  re- 
maining distance,  say  three  miles.  We  had  the  Seine  in 
view  most  of  the  way,  and  crossed  it  on  a  fine  iron  bridge, 
one  end  of  which  forms  the  entrance  to  St.  Cloud,  in  front 
of  which  the  river  winds.  We  reached  the  gates  of  the 
palace,  and  found  they  were  not  opened  till  twelve  o'clock; 
but  a  sergeant  offered  to  show  us  the  King's  garden,  —  an 
offer  we  accepted  with  pleasure.  The  entrance  is  by  an 
avenue  of  fine  trees,  their  tops  meeting  over  our  heads, 
and  presenting,  through  the  vista  they  made,  a  frame  for  a 
beautiful  landscape.  We  passed  several  pieces  of  water, 
the  peaceful  abode  of  numerous  fish,  basking  on  the  sur- 
face ;  swans  also  held  their  concave  wings  unfurled  to  the 
light  breeze  —  orange  trees  of  fair  size  held  their  golden 
fruit  pendent  —  flowers  of  every  hue  covered  the  borders, 
and  a  hundred  statues  embellished  all  with  their  well- 
modelled  forms.  So  unmolested  are  the  birds  that  a  Green 
Woodpecker  suffered  my  inspection  as  if  in  the  woods  of 
our  dear,  dear  America.  At  the  right  time  we  found  our- 
selves in  the  King's  antechamber,  and  then  passed  through 
half  a  dozen  rooms  glittering  with  richest  ornaments, 
painted  ceilings,  large  pictures,  and  lighted  by  immense 
windows;  all,  however,  too  fine  for  my  taste,  and  we  were 
annoyed  by  the  gens  d' amies  watching  us  as  if  we  were 
thieves.  It  was  near  two  o'clock  when  we  left,  the  weather 
beautiful,  and  heat  such  as  is  usually  felt  in  Baltimore 
about  this  season.  The  population  of  Paris  appeared  now 
to  flock  to  St.  Cloud ;  the  road  was  filled  with  convey- 
ances of  all  sorts,  and  in  the  principal  walk  before  the 
Palace  were  hundreds  of  petits  marchands,  opening  and 
arranging  their  wares.  Music  began  in  different  quarters, 
groups  lay  on  the  grass,  enjoying  their  repasts ;  every  one 
seemed  joyous  and  happy.     One  thing  surprised  me :  we 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


3" 


I  say 

itcrior 

break- 
he  re- 
fine in 

bridge, 

n  front 
of  the 

)' clock; 

n,  — an 

5  by  an 

r  heads, 

cne  for  a 

)f  water, 
the  sur- 

sd  to  the 

[r  golden 

I  borders, 

heir  well- 

t  a  Green 
woods  of 

bund  our- 

d  through 
irnaments, 
immense 

Id  we  were 
f  we  were 
,e  weather 
Baltimore 
.eared  now 
;h  convey- 
before  the 
•ening  and 
[nt  quarters, 
every  one 
ledme:  we 


were  at  St.   Cloud  ten  hours,  —  they  told  us  fifty  thou- 
sand ( ?)  were  there,  and  I  saw  only  three  women  of  no- 
ticeable beauty;    yet  these  short  brunettes  arc   animated 
and  apparently  thoughtless,  and  sing  and  dance  as  if  no 
shadow  could  ever  come  over  them.    At  four  o'clock  all 
was  in  full  vigor ;  the  sounds  of  horns  and  bugles  drew  us 
towards  a  place  where  we  saw  on  a  platform  a  party  of 
musicians,  three  of  whom  were  Flemish   women,  and  so 
handsome   that   they  were   surrounded   by   crowds.     We 
passed  through  a  sort  of  turnstile,  and  in  a  few  minutes  an 
equestrian  performance  began,  in  which  the  riders  showed 
great  skill,  jugglers  followed  with  other  shows,  and  then 
we  left ;  the  same  show  in  London  would  have  cost  three 
shillings ;  here,  a  franc.     We  saw  people  shooting  at  a  tar- 
get with  a  crossbow.     When  the  marksman  was  successful 
in  hitting  the  centre,  a  spring  was  touched,  and  an  inflated 
silken  goldfish,  as  large  as  a  barrel,  rose  fifty  yards  in  the 
air,  —  a  pretty  sight,  I  assure  thee ;  the  fins  of  gauze  moved 
with  the  breeze,  he  plunged  and  rose  and  turned  about, 
almost  as  a  real  fish  would  do  in  his  element.     Shows  of 
everything  were  there;  such  a  medley — such  crowds  — 
such  seeming  pleasure  in  all  around  us,  I  never  remarked 
anywhere  but  in  France.     No  word  of  contention  did   I 
hear ;  all  was  peace  and  joy,  and  when  we  left  not  a  dis- 
turbance had  taken  place.     We  had  an  excellent  dinner, 
with  a  bottle  of  Chablis,  for  three  francs  each,  and  return- 
ing to  the  place  we  had  left,  found  all  the  fountains  were 
playing,  and  dancing  was  universal ;   the  musicians  were 
good  and  numerous,  but  I  was  surprised  to  remark  very 
few  fine  dancers.     The   woods,   which   were  illuminated, 
looked  extremely  beautiful ;  the  people  constantly  crossing 
and  re-crossing  them   made  the  lights  appear  and  disap- 
pear, reminding  me  of  fireflies  in  our  own  woods  in  a  sum- 
mer night.     As  we  passed  out  of  the  gates,  we  perceived 
as  many  persons  coming  as  going,  and  were  told  the  mer- 
riment would  last  till  day.     With  difficulty  we  secured  two 


1 


Its 


'^m^mm 


312 


AUDUBON 


seats  in  a  cart,  and  returned  to  Paris  along  a  road  with  a 
double  line  of  vehicles  of  all  sorts  going  both  ways.  Kvcry 
few  rods  were  guards  on  foot,  and  ^tv/.y  d' amies  on  horse- 
back, to  see  that  all  went  well ;  and  we  at  last  reached  our 
hotel,  tired  and  dusty,  but  pleased  with  all  we  had  seen, 
and  at  having  had  such  an  opportunity  to  see,  to  compare, 
and  to  judge  of  the  habits  of  a  people  so  widely  different 
from  either  Americans  or  English. 

September  8.  We  went  to  pay  our  respects  to  Baron 
Cuvier  and  GeofTroy  St.  Hilaire ;  ^  we  saw  only  the  first, 
who  told  us  to  be  at  the  Academic  Royale  des  Sciences  in 
an  hour.  I  had  hired  a  portfolio,  and  took  my  work.  As 
soon  as  we  entered,  Baron  Cuvier  very  politely  came  to  us, 
ordered  a  porter  to  put  my  book  on  a  table,  and  gave  me 
a  seat  of  honor.  The  seance  was  opened  by  a  tedious  lec- 
ture on  the  vision  of  the  Mole ;  then  Cuvier  arose,  announc- 
ing my  friend  Swainson  and  me  and  spoke  of  my  work;  it 
was  shown  and  admired  as  usual,  and  Cuvier  requested  to 
review  it  for  the  **  M^moires  of  the  Academy."  Poor  Au- 
dubon !  here  thou  art,  a  simple  woodsman,  among  a  crowd 
of  talented  men,  yet  kindly  received  by  all  —  so  arc  the 
works  of  God  as  shown  in  His  birds  loved  by  them.  I  left 
my  book,  that  the  librarian  might  show  it  to  all  who  wished 
to  see  it. 

September  9.  Went  to  the  Jardin  du  Roi,  where  I  met 
young  Geoffroy,  who  took  me  to  a  man  who  stuffs  birds 
for  the  Prince  d'Essling,  who,  I  was  told,  had  a  copy  of  my 
work,  but  after  much  talk  could  not  make  out  whether  it 
was  Wilson's,  Selby's,  or  mine.  I  am  to  call  on  him  to- 
morrow. I  took  a  great  walk  round  the  Boulevards,  look- 
ing around  me  and  thinking  how  curious  my  life  has  been, 
and  how  wonderful  my  present  situation  is.  I  took  Mrs. 
Sv/ainson  to  the  Louvre,  and  as  we  were  about  to  pass  one 
of  the  gates  of  the  Tuileries,  the  sentinel  stopped  us,  saying 
no  one  could  pass  with  a  fur  cap  ;  so  we  went  to  another 
1  Isidore  Geoffroy  St.  Hilaire,  1805-1861,  zoologist. 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


313 


to  Baron 
the  first, 
:iences  in 
/ork.    As 
ime  to  us, 
I  gave  me 
idious  lec- 
,  ani^ounc- 
y  work;  it 
quested  to 
Poor  Au- 
mg  a  crowd 
so  are  the 

lem.    llef^ 
who  wished 


gate,  where  no  such  challenge  was  given,  and  reached  the 
Grand  Gallery.  Here  amongst  the  Raphaels,  Corrcggios, 
Titians,  Davids,  and  thousands  of  others,  we  feasted  our 
eyes  and  enlarged  our  knowledge.  Taking  Mrs.  Swainson 
homo,  I  then  made  for  L'Institut  de  France  by  appoint- 
ment, and  gave  my  prospectus  to  the  secretary  of  the 
library.  Young  Geofifroy,  an  aimable  and  learned  young 
man,  paid  me  every  attention,  and  gave  me  a  room  for 
Swainson  and  myself  to  write  in  and  for  the  inspection  of 
specimens.  How  very  different  from  the  public  societies 
in  England,  where  instead  of  being  bowed  to,  you  have  to 
bow  to  every  one.  Now,  my  Lucy,  I  have  certainly  run  the 
gauntlet  of  England  and  Paris,  and  may  feel  proud  of  two 
things,  mat  I  am  considered  the  first  ornithological  painter, 
and  the  first  practical  naturalist  of  America;  may  God 
grant  me  life  to  accomplish  my  serious  and  gigantic  work. 
September  10.  Breakfast  over,  I  made  for  the  Boule- 
vards to  present  the  letters  from  good  friends  Rathbone 

and  Melly.     I  saw  Mr.  B ,  the  banker,  who  read  the 

letter  I  gave  him,  and  was  most  polite,  but  as  to  ornithol- 
ogy, all  he  knew  about  it  was  that  large  feathers  were 
called  quills,  and  were  useful  in  posting  ledgers.  From 
there  to  the  Jardin  du  Roi,  where  I  called  on  Monsieur  L. 
C.  Kicncr,  bird  stuffer  to  the  Prince  of  Massena  (or  Ess- 
ling),  Mvho  wished  me  to  call  on  the  Prince  with  him  at 
two,  the  Prince  being  too  ill  to  leave  the  house.  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Swainson  were  to  go  with  me  to  see  the  collection  he 
had  made,  of  many  curious  and  beautiful  things,  and  when 
we  reached  the  house  we  were  shown  at  once  to  the 
museum,  which  surpasses  in  magnificence  and  number  of 
rare  specimens  of  birds,  shells,  and  books,  all  I  have  yet 
seen.  This  for  a  while,  when  I  was  told  the  Prince  would 
receive  me.  I  took  my  pamphlet  in  my  arms  and  entered 
a  fine  room,  where  he  was  lying  on  a  sofa ;  he  rose  at  once, 

'  Son  of  Andr^,  Prince  d'Essling  and  Due  de  Rivoli,  one  of  the  marshals 
of  Napoleon. 


;■,;'■  i 


mm 


V4 


A UDUBON 


bowed,  and  presented  his  beautiful  wife.  As  soon  as  I  had 
untied  my  portfolio,  and  a  print  was  seen,  both  exclairficd, 
'*  Ah !  c'est  bien  beau  !  "  I  was  asked  if  I  did  not  know 
Charles  Bonaparte,  and  when  I  said  yes,  they  again  both 
exclaimed,  '*  Ah  !  c'est  lui,  the  gentleman  of  whom  we  have 
heard  so  much,  the  man  of  the  woods,  who  has  made  so 
many  and  such  wonderful  drawings."  The  Prince  regretted 
very  much  there  were  so  few  persons  in  France  able  to 
subscribe  to  such  a  work,  and  said  I  must  not  expect  more 
than  six  or  eight  names  in  Paris.  He  named  all  whom  he 
and  his  lady  knew,  and  then  said  it  would  give  him  pleas- 
ure to  add  his  name  to  my  list;  he  wrote  it  himself,  next 
under  that  of  the  Duke  of  Rutland.  This  prince,  son  of 
the  famous  marshal,  is  about  thirty  years  of  age,  appar- 
ently delicate,  pale,  slender,  and  yet  good-looking,  entirely 
devoted  to  Natural  History ;  his  wife  a  beautiful  young 
woman,  not  more  than  twenty,  extremely  graceful  and 
polite.  They  both  complimented  me  on  the  purity  of  my 
French,  and  wished  me  all  success.  My  room  at  the  hotel 
being  very  cramped,  I  have  taken  one  at  L'Hotel  de  France, 
large,  clean,  and  comfortable,  for  which  I  pay  twenty-five 
sous  a  day.  We  are  within  gun-shot  of  Les  Jardins  des 
Tuileries.  The  retraite  is  just  now  beating.  This  means 
that  a  few  drummers  go  through  the  streets  at  eight  o'clock 
in  the  evening,  beating  their  drums,  to  give  notice  to  all 
soldiers  to  make  for  their  quarters. 

September  12.  I  went  early  to  Rue  Richelieu  to  see  the 
librarian  of  the  King,  Mr.  Van  Praet,  a  small,  white-haired 
gentleman,  who  assured  me  in  the  politest  manner  imagin- 
able that  it  was  out  of  the  question  to  subscribe  for  such  a 
work ;  he,  however,  gave  me  a  card  of  introduction  to  M. 
Barbier,  a  second  librarian,  belonging  to  the  King's  private 
library  at  the  Louvre.  On  my  way  I  posccd  my  letters  for 
London ;  the  inland  postage  of  a  single  letter  from  Paris 
to  London  is  twenty-four  sous,  and  the  mail  for  London 
leaves  four  days  in  the  week.     M.  Barbier  was  out,  but 


T-  ..-.^ 


Jr 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


315 


when  I  saw  him  later  he  advised  me  to  write  to  the  Baron 
de  la  Bouillerie,  intendant  of  the  King's  household.  So  go 
my  days.  —  This  evening  we  went  to  the  Italian  Opera ;  it 
was  not  open  when  we  arrived,  so  we  put  ourselves  in  the 
line  of  people  desirous  to  enter,  and  at  seven  followed 
regularly,  with  no  pushing  or  crowding  (so  different  from 
England),  as  the  arrangements  are  so  perfect.  We  received 
our  tickets,  the  change  was  counted  at  leisure,  and  we  were 
shown  into  the  pit,  which  contains  three  divisions;  that 
nearest  the  orchestra  contains  the  most  expensive  scats. 
The  theatre  is  much  less  in  extent  than  either  Drury  Lane 
or  fovent  Garden,  but  is  handsome,  and  splendidly  deco- 
rated and  lighted.  The  orchestra  contains  more  than 
double  the  number  of  musicians,  and  when  the  music  began, 
not  another  sound  was  heard,  all  was  silence  and  attention. 
Never  having  been  at  the  opera  since  my  youth,  the  music 
astounded  me.  The  opera  was  Semiramis,  and  well  exe- 
cuted, but  I  was  not  much  pleased  with  it;  it  was  too 
clamorous,  a  harmonious  storm,  and  I  would  have  preferred 
something  more  tranquil.  I  remarked  that  persons  who 
left  their  seats  intending  to  return  laid  on  their  seats  a  hat, 
glove,  or  card,  which  was  quite  sufficient  to  keep  the  place 
for  them.  In  London  what  a  treat  for  the  thieves,  who  are 
everywhere.  I  walked  home ;  the  pure  atmosphere  of  Paris, 
the  clear  sky,  the  temperature,  almost  like  that  of  America, 
make  me  light-hearted  indeed,  yet  would  that  I  were  again 
in  the  far  distant,  peaceful  retreats  of  my  happiest  days. 
Europe  might  whistle  for  me ;  I,  like  a  free  bird,  would  sing, 
"  Never  —  no,  never,  will  I  leave  America." 

September  13.  I  had  to  take  my  portfolio  to  Baron 
Cuvier,  and  I  went  first  to  Geoffroy  de  St.  Hilaire,  who 
liked  it  much,  and  retracted  his  first  opinion  of  the  work 
being  too  large.  Monsieur  Dumesnil,  a  first-rate  engraver, 
came  to  see  me,  sent  by  Prince  de  Massena,  and  we  talked 
of  the  work,  which  he  told  me  honestly  could  not  be  pub- 
lished in  France  to  be  delivered  in  England  as  cheaply  as 


'ih 


3i6 


AUDUBON 


if  the  work  were  done  in  London,  and  probably  not  so  well, 
This  has  ended  with  me  all  thoughts  of  ever  removing  it 
from  Havell's  hands,  unless  he  should  discontinue  the 
present  excellent  state  of  its  execution.  Copper  is  dearer 
here  than  in  Engldnd,  and  good  colorers  much  scarcer, 
I  saw  Cuvier,  who  invited  us  to  spend  the  evening,  and 
then  returned  to  the  Pont  des  Arts  to  look  for  bird-skins, 
I  found  none,  but  purchased  an  engraved  portrait  of  Cuvier, 
and  another  of  "  Phidias  and  the  Thorn."  I  have  just 
returned  with  Swainson  from  Baron  Cuvier's,  who  gives 
public  receptions  to  scientific  men  every  Saturday.  My 
book  was  on  the  tabic ;  Cuvier  received  me  with  special 
kindness,  and  put  me  at  my  ease.  Mademoiselle  Cuvier 
I  found  remarkably  agreeable,  as  also  Monsieur  de  Condil- 
lot.  The  first  very  willingly  said  he  would  sit  to  Parker 
for  his  portrait,  and  the  other  told  me  that  if  I  went  to 
Italy,  I  must  make  his  house  my  home.  My  work  was 
seen  by  many,  and  Cuvier  pronounced  it  the  finest  of  its 
kind  in  existence. 

September  I4.,  Sunday.  Versailles,  where  we  have  spent 
our  day,  is  truly  a  magnificent  place ;  how  long  since  I  have 
been  here,  and  how  many  changes  in  my  life  since  those 
days  !  We  first  saw  the  orangerie,  of  about  two  hundred 
trees,  that  to  Frenchmen  who  have  never  left  Paris  look- 
well,  but  to  me  far  from  it,  being  martyrized  by  the  hand 
of  man,  who  has  clipped  them  into  stift'  ovals.  One  is 
407  years  old.  They  produce  no  golden  fruit,  as  their 
boxes  are  far  too  small  to  supply  sufficient  nourishment, 
and  their  fragrant  blossoms  are  plucked  to  make  orange- 
flower  water.  From  this  spot  the  woods,  the  huntin[j- 
grounds  of  the  King,  are  seen  circling  the  garden?;,  and  are 
(we  are  told)  filled  with  all  kinds  of  game.  The  Kind's 
apartments,  through  which  we  after^'i  rds  went,  are  too  full 
of  gilding  for  my  eyes,  and  I  frequently  resorted  to  the 
large  windows  to  glance  at  the  green  trees.  Amongst  the 
paintings  I  admired  most  little  Virginia  and  Paul  standing 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


317 


under  a  palm-tree  with  their  mothers;  Paul  inviting  the 
lovely  child  to  cross  a  brook.  In  the  stables  are  a  hundred 
beautiful  horses,  the  choice  of  Arabia,  Australasia,  Nor- 
mandy, Limousin,  etc.,  each  the  model  of  his  race,  with 
fiery  eyes,  legs  sinewy  and  slender,  tails  to  the  ground,  and 
manes  never  curtailed.  Among  them  still  remain  several 
that  have  borne  the  great  Napoleon.  From  here  we 
walked  again  through  woods  and  gardens ;  thus,  my  Lucy, 
once  more  have  I  been  at  Versailles,  and  much  have  I 
enjoyed  it. 

September  15.  France,  my  dearest  friend,  is  indeed 
poor !  This  day  I  have  attended  at  the  Royal  Academy  of 
Sciences,  and  had  all  my  plates  spread  over  the  different 
large  tables,  and  they  were  viewed  by  about  one  hundred 
persons.  "  Beau  !  bien  beau  !  "  issued  from  every  mouth, 
but,  "  Quel  ouvrage  !  "  "  Quel  prix  !  "  as  well.  I  said 
that  I  had  thirty  subscribers  at  Manchester ;  they  seemed 
surprised,  but  acknowledged  that  England,  the  little  isle 
of  England,  alone  was  able  to  support  poor  Audubon. 
Poor  France !  thy  fine  climate,  thy  rich  vineyards,  and  the 
wishes  of  the  learned  avail  nothing;  thou  art  a  destitute 
beggar,  and  not  the  powerful  friend  thou  wast  represented 
to  be.  Now  I  see  plainly  how  happy,  or  lucky,  or  pru  • 
dent  I  was,  not  to  follow  friend  Melly's  enthusiastic  love 
of  country.  Had  I  come  first  to  France  my  work  never 
would  have  had  even  a  beginning ;  it  would  have  perished 
like  a  flower  in  October.  It  happened  that  a  gentleman 
who  saw  me  at  Versailles  yesterday  remembered  my  face, 
and  spoke  to  me ;  he  is  the  under  secretary  of  this  famous 
society,  and  he  wrote  for  me  a  note  to  be  presented  to  the 
Minister  of  the  Interior,  who  has,  I  am  told,  the  power  to 
subscribe  to  anything,  and  for  as  many  copies  of  any  work 
as  the  farmers  of  France  can  well  pay  for  through  the 
enormous  levies  imposed  on  them.  Cuvier,  St.  Hilaire, 
and  many  others  spoke  to  me  most  kindly.  I  had  been 
to  Cuvier  in  the  morning  to  talk  with  him  and  Parker 


1i 


3i8 


AUDUBON 


about  the  portrait  the  latter  is  to   paint,  and  I  believe  I 
will  describe  Cuvier's  house  to  thee.     The  footman  asked 
us  to  follow  him  upstairs,  and  in  the  first  room  we  ..  ..^ht 
a   glimpse   of  a  slight  figure  dressed    all   in  black,  that 
glided  across  the  floor  like  a  sylph ;  it  was  Mile.  Cuvier, 
not  quite  ready  to  see  gentlemen :  off  she  flew  like  a  Dove 
before  Falcons.     We  followed  our  man,  who  continually 
turned,  saying,  "  This  way,  gentlemen."     Eight  rooms  we 
passed   filled  with  books,   and  each  with  a  recessed  bed, 
and  at  last  reached  a  sort  of  laboratory,  the  sanctum  sane- 
tortim  of  Cuvier;   there  was  nothing  in  it  but  books  and 
skeletons  of  animals,   reptiles,  etc.     Our  conductor,  sur- 
prised, bid  us  sit  down,  and  left  us  to  seek  the  Baron.    My 
eyes  were  fully  employed,  and  I  contemplated  in  imagina- 
tion the  extent  of  the  great  man's  knowledge.     His  books 
were  in  great  disorder,  and  I  concluded  that  he  read  and 
studied  them,  and  owned  them  for  other  purposes  than 
for  show.     Our  man  returned  and  led  us  back  through  the 
same  avenue  of  bed-chambers,  lined  with  books  instead  of 
satin,    and   we   were  conducted    through   the    kitchen  to 
another  laboratory,  where  the  Baron  was  found.    Polite- 
ness in  great  men  is  shown  differently  from  the  same  qual- 
ity in  fashionable  society:  a  smile  suffices  to  show  you 
are  welcome,  without  many  words,  and  the  work  in  hand 
is  continued  as  if  you  were  one  of  the  family.     Ah !  how 
I  delight  in  this !  and  how  pleased  I  was  to  be  thus  wel- 
comed  by   this  learned    man.     Cuvier  was  looking  at  a 
small  lizard  in  a  tiny  vial  filled  with  spirit.     I  see  now  his 
sparkling  eye  half  closed,  as  if  quizzing  its  qualities,  and 
as  he  put  it  down  he  wrote  its  name  on  a  label.     He  made 
an  appointment  with  Mr.  Parker,    and  went  on  quizzing 
lizards.     Being  desirous  of  seeing  a  gambling  house,  younj 
Geoffroy  took  me  to  one  in  the  Palais  Royal,  a  very  noto- 
rious one,  containing  several  roulette  tables,  and  there « 
saw  a  little  of  the  tactics  of  the  gentlemen  of  the  trade. 
The  play,  however,  was  not  on  this  occasion  high.    The 


THE   EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


319 


banquicrSy  or  head  thieves,  better  call  them,  are  lank  and 
pale,  their  countenances  as  unmoved  as  their  hearts. 
From  here  we  went  to  the  establishment  of  Franconi, 
where  I  saw  wonderful  feats  of  horsemanship. 

September  17.  There  is  absolutely  nothing  to  be  done 
here  to  advance  my  subscription  list,  and  at  two  o'clock  I 
went  with  Swainson  to  a  marchand  naturalistc  to  see  some 
drawings  of  birds  of  which  I  had  heard.  They  were  not 
as  well  drawn  as  mine,  but  much  better  painted. 

September  18.  I  went  to  install  Parker  at  Baron  Cu- 
vier's.  He  had  his  canvas,  etc.,  all  ready  and  we  arrived 
at  half-past  nine,  too  early  quite.  At  ten,  having  spent 
our  time  in  the  apartment  of  the  Giraffe,  Parker  went  in 
to  take  a  second  breakfast,  and  I  to  converse  with  Mile. 
Cuvier.  The  Baron  came  in,  and  after  a  few  minutes  to 
arrange  about  the  light,  sat  down  in  a  comfortable  arm- 
chair, quite  ready.  Great  men  as  well  as  great  women 
have  their  share  of  vanity,  and  I  soon  discovered  that  the 
Baron  thinks  himself  a  fine-looking  man.  His  daughter 
seemed  to  know  this,  and  remarked  more  than  once  that 
her  father's  under  lip  was  swelled  more  than  usual,  and 
she  added  that  the  line  of  his  nose  was  extremely  fine. 
I  passed  my  fingers  over  mine,  and,  lo  !  I  thought  just  the 
same.  I  see  the  Baron  now,  quite  as  plainly  as  I  did  this 
morning;  an  old  green  surtout  about  him,  a  neck-cloth, 
that  might  well  surround  his  body  if  unfolded,  loosely  tied 
about  his  chin,  and  his  silver  locks  like  those  of  a  man 
more  bent  on  studying  books  than  on  visiting  barbers. 
His  fine  eyes  shot  fire  from  under  his  bushy  eyebrows, 
and  he  smiled  as  he  conversed  with  me.  Mile.  Cuvier, 
asked  to  read  to  us,  and  opening  a  book,  read  in  a  clear, 
well  accentuated  manner  a  comic  play,  well  arranged  to 
amuse  us  for  a  time,  for  sitting  for  a  portrait  is  certainly 
a  great  bore.  The  Baroness  joined  us;  I  thought  her 
looks  not  those  of  a  happy  person,  and  her  melancholy 
affected  me.    The  Baron  soon  said  he  was  fatigued,  rose 


p 


320 


AUDUBON 


and  went  out,  but  soon  returned,  and  I  advised  Parker  not 
to  keep  him  too  long.  The  time  was  adjourned  to  Sun- 
day next.  In  Connecticut  this  would  be  thought  horrible, 
in  England  it  would  be  difficult  to  effect  it,  and  in  Paris  it  is 
considered  the  best  day  for  such  things.  Again  I  went  to 
the  Louvre,  and  this  evening  went  with  young  Geoffrey  to 
the  celebrated  Frascati.  This  house  is  a  handsome  hotel, 
and  we  were  introduced  by  two  servants  in  fine  livery  into 
a  large  wainscoted  room,  where  a  roulette  table  was  at 
work.  Now  none  hut  gentlemen  gamble  here.  We  saw, 
and  saw  only  !  In  another  room  rouge  et  noir  was  going 
on,  and  the  double  as  well  as  the  single  Napoleons  easily 
changed  hands,  yet  all  was  smiling  and  serene.  Some 
wealthy  personage  drew  gold  in  handsful  from  his  pock- 
ets, laid  it  on  a  favorite  spot,  and  lost  it  calmly,  more  than 
once.  Ladies  also  resort  to  this  house,  and  good  order  is 
always  preserved ;  without  a  white  cravat,  shoes  instead 
of  boots,  etc.,  no  one  is  admitted.  I  soon  became  tired 
of  watching  this  and  we  left. 

September  10.  Friend  Swainson  requested  me  to  go 
with  him  this  morning  to  complete  a  purchase  of  skins, 
and  this  accomplished  I  called  on  M.  Milbert,  to  whom  I 
had  a  letter  from  my  old  friend  Le  Sueur,^  but  he  was 
absent.     I   now  went  to  the  Jardin   du  Roi,  and   at  the 

library  saw  the  so-called    fine   drawings   of  Mr.    H • 

Lucy,  they  were  just  such  drawings  as  our  boy  Johnny 
made  before  I  left  home,  stiff  and  dry  as  a  well-seasoned 
fiddle-stick.  The  weather  and  the  sky  are  most  charm- 
ing. This  evening  M.  Cainard,  whom  I  have  met  several 
times,  asked  me  to  play  billiards  with  him,  but  the  want 
of  practice  was  such  that  I  felt  as  if  I  never  had  played 
before.  Where  is  the  time  gone  when  I  was  considered 
one  of  the  best  of  players?  To-morrow  I  will  try  to  see 
M.  Redoute.2 

1  Charles  Alexandre  Le  Sueur,  French  naturalist.     1778-1846. 

2  Pierre  Joseph  Redoute,  French  painter  of  flowers.     1759-1840. 


THE  FMROPEAN  JOURNALS 


321 


rker  not 

to  Sun- 
horrible, 
Paris  it  is 
I  went  to 
ioffroy  to 
ime  hotel, 
ivery  into 
)le  was  at 

We  saw, 
was  going 
ons  easily 
le.     Some 
.  his  pock- 
more  than 
od  order  is 
DCS  instead 
came  tired 

me  to  go 
fe  of  skins, 
to  whom  I 
but  he  was 
ai\d   at  the 
Vir.   H— - 
oy  Johnny 
lU-seasoned 
nost  charm- 
met  several 
lut  the  want 
had  played 
considered 

\\  try  to  see 


:778-i846. 
1 7  59-1840. 


September  20.     I  had  the  pleasure  of  seeing  old  Redoute 
this  morning,  the  flower-painter  par  excellence.     After  read- 
ing Le  Sueur's  note  to  him,  dated  five  years  ago,  he  looked 
at  me  fixedly,  and  said,  "  Well,  sir,  I  am  truly  glad  to  be- 
come acquainted  with  you,"  and  without  further  ceremony 
showed  me  his  best  works.     His  flowers  arc  grouped  with 
peculiar  taste,  well  drawn  and  precise  in  the  outlines,  and 
colored  with  a  pure  brilliancy  that  depicts  nature  incom- 
parably better  than  I  ever  saw  it  before.     Old  Redoute  dis- 
likes all  that  is  not  nature  alone ;  he  cannot  bear  either  the 
drawings  of  stuffed  birds  or  of  quadrupeds,  and  evinced  a 
strong  desire  to  see  a  work  wherein  nature  was  delineated 
in  an  animated  manner.     He  said  that  as  he  dined  every 
Friday  at  the  Duke  of  Orleans',  he  would  take  my  work 
there  next  week,  and  procure  his  subscription,  if  not  also 
that  of  the  Duchess,  and  requested  me  to  give  him  a  pro- 
spectus.    I  looked  over  hundreds  of  his  drawings,  and  foimd 
out  that  he  sold  them  well;  he  showed  me   some  worth 
two  hundred  and  fifty  guineas.     On  my  way  to  the  Comte 
de  Lasterie,  I  met  the  under  secretary  of  the  King's  private 
library,  who  told  me  that  the  Baron  de  la  Bouillerie  had 
given  orders  to  have  my  work  inspected  and  if  approved  of 
to  subscribe   to    it.     I  reached    the  Comte  do   Lasterie's 
house,  found  him  half  dressed,  very  dirty,  and  not  very 
civil.     He  was  at   breakfast  with    several  gentlemen,   and 
told  me  to  call  again,  which  I  will  take  into  considc ratio Ji. 
I  must  not  forget  that  in  crossing  the  city  this  morning  I 
passed  through  the  flower  market,  a  beautiful  exhibition  to 
me  at  all  times.     Th's  market  is  abundantly  supplied  twice 
a  week  with  exotics  and  flowers  of  all  sorts,  which  are  sold 
at  a  cheap  rate. 

September  21.  The  weather  is  still  beautiful,  and  Parker 
and  I  took  the  omnibus  at  the  Pont  des  Arts,  which  vehicle, 
being  Sunday,  was  crowded.  I  left  Parker  to  make  a 
second  sitting  with  Cuvier,  and  went  to  the  Jardin  du  Roi, 
already  filled  with  pleasure-seekers.  I  took  a  seat  beside 
VOL.  I.  — 21 


322 


AUDUBON 


a  venerable  old  soldier,  and  entered  into  conversation  with 
him.  Soldier  during  more  than  thirty  years,  he  had  much 
to  relate.  The  Moscow  campaign  was  spoken  of,  and  I 
heard  from  the  lips  of  this  veteran  the  sufferings  to  which 
Napoleon's  armies  had  been  exposed.  He  had  been  taken 
prisoner,  sent  to  the  interior  for  two  years,  fed  on  musty 
bread  by  the  Cossacks,  who  forced  them  to  march  all  day. 
He  had  lost  his  toes  and  one  ear  by  the  frost,  and  sighed, 
as  he  said,  "  And  to  lose  the  campaign  after  all  this  !  "  I 
offered  him  a  franc,  and  to  my  surprise  he  refused  it,  sayini^ 
he  had  his  pension,  and  was  well  fed.  The  garden  was 
now  crowded,  children  were  scrambling  for  horse-chestnuts, 
which  were  beginning  to  fall,  ladies  playing  battledore 
and  shuttlecock,  venders  of  fruit  and  lemonade  were  call- 
ing their  wares,  and  I  was  interested  and  amused  by  all. 
Now  to  Baron  Cuvier  again.  I  found  him  sitting  in  his 
arm-chair;  a  gentleman  was  translating  the  dedication  of 
Linn6  (Linn.-Eus)  to  him,  as  he  was  anxious  that  the  Latin 
should  not  be  misconstrued ;  he  often  looked  in  some 
book  or  other,  and  I  dare  say  often  entirely  forgot  Parker, 
who  notwithstanding  has  laid  in  a  good  likeness.  The 
Baron  wishes  me  to  be  at  the  Institute  to-morrow  at  half- 
past  one. 

September  22.  I  was  at  the  Institute  at  half-past  one  — 
no  Baron  there.  I  sat  opposite  the  clock  and  counted 
minutes  one  after  another;  the  clock  ticked  on  as  if  I  did 
not  exist;  I  began  the  counting  of  the  numerous  volumes 
around  me,  and  as  my  eyes  reached  the  centre  of  the  hall 
they  rested  on  the  statue  of  Voltaire ;  he  too  had  his  share 
of  troubles.  Savants  entered  one  after  another;  many 
bowed  to  me,  and  passed  to  their  seats.  My  thoughts 
journeyed  to  America ;  I  passed  from  the  Missouri  to  the 
Roanoke,  to  the  Hudson,  to  the  Great  Lakes  —  then 
floated  down  the  gentle  Ohio,  and  met  the  swift  Mississippi 
which  would  carry  me  to  thee.  The  clock  vibrated  in  my 
ears,  it  struck  two,  and  I  saw  again  that  I  was  in  an  immense 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


323 


tion  with 
ad  much 
af,  and  I 

to  which 
ccn  taken 

on  musty 
:h  all  day, 
nd  sighed, 

this!"  1 
1  it,  saying 
rarden  was 
i-chestnuts, 

battledore 
e  were  call- 
used  by  all. 
itting  in  his 
edication  of 
at  the  Latin 
:ed   in  some 
,rgot  Parker, 
ceness.    The 
)rrow  at  half- 

f-past  one  - 
and  counted 
on  as  if  I  did 
rous  volumes 
tre  of  the  hall 
had  his  share 
lother;   many 

My  thoughts 
Missouri  to  the 
Lakes  -  then 
vift  Mississippi 
vibrated  in  my 

in  an  immense 


library,  where  the  number  of  savants  continually  increased, 
but  no  Cuvier;   I  tried  to  read,  but  could  not;   now  it  was 
half-past  two ;  I  was  asked  several  times  if  I  was  waiting  for 
the  Baron,  and  was  advised  to  go  to  his  house,  but  like  a 
sentinel  true  to  his  post  I  sat  firm  and  waited.     All  at  once 
I  heard  his  voice,  and  saw  him  advancing,  very  warm  and 
apparently  fatigued.     He    met   me  with   many  apologies, 
and  said,  "  Come  with  me ;  "  and  we  walked  along,  he  ex- 
plaining all  the  time  why  he  had  been  late,  while  his  hand 
drove  a  pencil  with  great  rapidity,  and  he  told  me  that  he 
was  actually  noiv  writing  the   report   on   my  work !  !      I 
thought  of  La  Fontaine's  fable  of  the  Turtle  and  the  Hare ; 
I  was  surprised  that  so  great  a  man  should  leave  till  the 
last  moment  the  writing  of  a  report  to  every  word  of  which 
the  forty  critics  of  France  would  lend  an   attentive  ear. 
For  being  on  such  an  eminence  he  has  to  take  more  care 
of  his  actions  than  a  common  individual,  to  prevent  his  fall, 
being  surrounded,  as  all  great  men  are  more  or  less,  by 
envy  and  malice.     My  enormous  book  lay  before  him,  and 
I  shifted  as  swift  as  lightning  the  dififerent  plates  that  he  had 
marked  for  examination.     His  pencil  moved  as  constantly 
and  as  rapidly.     He  turned  and  returned  the  sheets  of  his 
manuscript  with  amazing  accuracy,  and  noted  as  quickly 
as  he  saw,  and  he  saw  all.     We  were  both  wet  with  per- 
spiration.    It  wanted  but  a  few  minutes  of  three  when  we 
went  off  to   the  Council  room,  Cuvier   still  writing,  and 
bowing  to  every  one  he  met.     I  left  him,  and  was  glad  to 
get  into  the  pure  air.     At  my  lodgings  I  found  a  card  ask- 
ing me  to  go  to  the  Messageries  Royales,  and  I  went  at  once, 
thinking  perhaps  it  was  my  numbers  from  London ;  but  no 
such  thing.     My  name  was   asked,  and  I  was  told  that 
orders  had  been  received  to  remit  me  ten  francs,  the  coach 
having  charged  me  for  a  seat  better  than  the  one  I  had 
had.    This  is  indeed  honesty.     When  I  asked  the  gentle- 
man how  he  had  found  out  my  lodgings,  he  smiled,  and 
answered  that  he  knew  every  stranger  in  Paris  that  had 


324 


AUDUBON 


'• 


I 


L 


arrived  for  the  last  three  months,  through  his  hne  of  em- 
ployees, and  that  any  poHce-ofticer  was  able  to  say  how  I 
spent  my  time. 

September  ^o.  The  great  Gerard,  the  pupil  of  my  old 
master,  David,  has  written  saying  he  wishes  to  see  my  work, 
and  myself  also,  and  1  have  promised  to  go  to-morrow 
evening  at  nine.  To-day  I  have  been  to  the  King's  library, 
a  fine  suite  of  twelve  rooms,  filled  with  elegant  and  must 
valuable  copies  of  all  the  finest  works.  I  should  suppose 
that  a  hundred  thousand  volumes  are  contained  here,  as 
well  as  portfolios  filled  with  valuable  originals  of  the  first 
masters.  The  King  seldom  reads,  but  he  shoots  well. 
Napoleon  read,  or  was  read  to,  constantly,  and  hardly  knew 
how  to  hold  a  gun.  I  was  surprised  when  I  spoke  of 
Charles  Bonaparte  to  notice  that  no  response  was  made, 
and  the  conversation  was  abruptly  turned  from  ornithol- 
ogists to  engraving.  I  have  now  been  nearly  three  weeks 
in  Paris  and  have  tivo  subscribers  —  almost  as  bad  as  Glas- 
gow. I  am  curious  to  see  the  Baron's  report,  and  should 
like  to  have  it  in  his  own  handwriting.  This  is  hardly  pos- 
sible ;  he  seldom  writes,  Mile.  Cuvier  does  his  writing  for 
him. 

September  2!f.  To  have  seen  me  trot  about  from  pillar 
to  post,  across  this  great  town,  from  back  of  the  Palais 
Royal  to  the  Jardin  du  Luxembourg,  in  search  of  M.  Le 
Medecin  Bertrand  and  a  copy  of  Cuvier's  teport,  would 
have  amused  any  one,  and  yet  I  did  it  w^ith  great  activity. 
Such  frailty  does  exist  in  man,  all  of  whom  arc  by  nature 
avaricious  of  praise.  Three  times  did  I  go  in  vain  to 
each  place,  i.  e.,  to  the  house  in  the  Rue  d'  Enfans,  and 
the  Globe  Office,  three  miles  asunder.  Fatigue  at  last 
brought  me  to  bay,  and  I  gave  up  the  chase.  I  pro- 
ceeded to  the  King's  library.  My  work  had  had  the 
honor  to  have  been  inspected  by  the  Committee,  who  had 
passed  a  favorable  judgment  on  its  merits.  I  was  in- 
formed that  should  the  King  subscribe,  I   must  leave  in 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


325 


France  a  man  authorized  by  act  of  attorney  to  receive  my 
dues,  without  which  1  might  never  have  a  sol.  The 
librarian,  a  perfect  gentleman,  told  me  this  in  friendship, 
and  would  have  added  (had  he  dared^  that  Kings  arc 
rarely  expected  to  pay.  I,  however,  cut  the  matter  short, 
knowing  within  myself  that,  should  I  not  receive  my 
money,  1  was  quite  able  to  keep  the  work.  In  the  even- 
ing I  dressed  to  go  to  M.  Gerard's  with  M.  Valenciennes; 
but  he  did  not  come,  so  there  must  have  been  some 
mistake  —  probably  mine. 

Scpti-mbcriio.  Went  with  Swainson  to  the  Pantheon, 
to  sec  if  the  interior  corresponds  with  the  magnificence 
of  the  exterior ;  it  is  fine,  but  still  unfinished.  All,  or 
almost  all,  the  public  edifices  of  Paris  far  surpass  those 
of  London.  Then  to  sec  Cuvier,  who  was  sitting  for  his 
portrait,  while  the  Baroness  was  reading  to  him  the  life 
of  Garrick.  He  had  known  Mrs.  Garrick,  and  his  obser- 
vations were  interesting.  The  likeness  is  good,  and  Cuvier 
is  much  pleased  with  it;  he  gave  me  a  note  for  M.  Vallery 
the  King's  librarian.  Parker  had  received  a  note  from 
M.  Valenciennes,  saying  he  had  forgot  my  address,  and 
had  spent  the  evening  going  from  place  to  place  searching 
for  me,  and  requested  I  would  go  with  him  to  Gerard  next 
Thursday.  Did  he  forget  to  question  the  all-knowing  police, 
or  did  the  gentleman  at  the  Messageries  exaggerate? 

September  26.  I  spent  some  time  in  the  Louvre  exam- 
ining very  closely  the  most  celebrated  pictures  of  animals, 
birds,  fruits,  and  flowers.  Afterwards  we  all  went  to  the 
French  Opera,  or,  as  it  is  called  here,  L'Ecole  de  Musique 
Royale.  The  play  was  "  La  Muette,"  a  wonderful  piece, 
and  the  whole  arrangement  of  the  performance  still  more 
so.  There  were  at  one  time  two  hundred  persons  on  the 
stage.  The  scenery  was  the  finest  I  have  ever  beheld,  —  at 
the  last,  Mount  Vesuvius  in  full  and  terrific  eruption  ;  the 
lava  seemed  absolutely  to  roll  in  a  burning  stream  down 
the  sides  of  the  volcano,  and  the  stones  which  were  appar- 


*i 


326 


AUDUBON 


-■\  .'■ 


ently  cast  up  from  the  earth  added  to  the  grand  represen- 
tation. The  whole  house  resounded  with  the  most  vocifer- 
ous applause,  and  we  enjoyed  our  evening,  I  assure  thee. 

September  27.  Found  old  Redoute  at  his  painting. 
The  size  of  my  portfolio  surprised  him,  and  when  I 
opened  the  work,  he  examined  it  most  carefully,  and 
spoke  highly  of  it,  and  wished  he  could  afford  it.  I  pro- 
posed, at  last,  that  we  should  exchange  works,  to  which 
he  agreed  gladly,  and  gave  me  at  once  nine  numbers  of 
his  "  Belles  fleurs "  and  promised  to  send  "  Lcs  Roses." 
Now,  my  Lucy,  this  will  be  a  grand  treat  for  thee,  fond 
of  flowers  as  thou  art;  when  thou  seest  these,  thy  eyes 
will  feast  on  the  finest  thou  canst  imagine.  From  here 
to  the  Globe  office,  where  I  saw  the  n'dactcnr,  who  was 
glad  to  have  me  correct  the  proof  sheets  as  regarded  the 
technical  names,  I  did  so,  and  he  gave  me,  to  my  delight, 
the  original  copy  of  Cuvier  himself.  It  is  a  great  eulo- 
gium  certainly,  but  not  so  feelingly  written  as  the  one  by 
Swainson,  nevertheless  it  will  give  the  French  an  idea  of 
my  work, 

Scpthnbcr  28.  I  have  lived  many  years,  and  have  only 
seen  one  horse  race.  Perhaps  I  should  not  have  seen 
that,  which  took  place  to-day  at  the  Champ  de  Mars, 
had  I  not  gone  out  of  curiosity  with  M.  Vallery.  The 
Champ  de  Mars  is  on  the  south  side  of  the  Seine,  about 
one  and  one  half  miles  below  Paris ;  we  passed  through 
Les  Jardins  des  Tuileries,  followed  the  river,  and  crossed  the 
Pont  de  Jena  opposite  the  entrance  to  I'l^cole  Militaire, 
situated  at  the  farther  end  of  the  oval  that  forms  the 
Champ  de  Mars.  This  is  a  fine  area,  and  perfectly  level, 
surrounded  by  a  levee  of  earth,  of  which  I  should  suppose 
the  material  was  taken  from  the  plain  on  which  the  course 
is  formed.  Arriving  early,  we  walked  round  it ;  saw  with 
pleasure  the  trees  that  shaded  the  walks;  the  booths 
erected  for  the  royal  family,  the  prefect,  the  gentry,  and  the 
canaille,  varying  greatly  in  elegance,  as  you  may  suppose, 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


327 


cprcsen- 
,  vocifer- 
c  thee, 
painting, 
when  I 
illy,  and 

.     1  pro- 
to  which 
imbers  of 
s  Roses." 
thee,  fond 
,  thy  eyes 
?"rom  here 
•,  who  was 
:Tardcd  the 
my  delight, 
great  eulo- 
thc  one  by 
an  idea  of 

\  have  only 
have  seen 
p  de  Mars, 
allery.    The 
Seine,  about 
,sed  through 
d  crossed  the 
3le  Militaire, 
it  forms  the 
erfectly  level, 
ould  suppose 
ch  the  course 
it;  saw  with 
the  booths 
entry,  and  the 
may  suppose- 


Chairs  and  benches  were  to  be  hired  in  abundance,  and 
we  each  took  one.  At  one  o'clock  squadrons  of  gens 
d'armcs  and  whole  regiments  of  infantry  made  their 
appearance  from  different  points,  and  in  a  few  minutes  the 
whole  ground  was  well  protected.  The  King  was  ex- 
pected, but  I  saw  nothing  of  him,  nor,  indeed,  of  any  of 
the  royal  family,  and  cannot  even  assert  that  they  came. 
At  two  every  scat  was  filled,  and  several  hundreds  of  men 
on  horseback  had  taken  the  centre  of  the  plain  divided 
from  the  race  track  by  a  line  of  ropes.  The  horses  for 
the  course  made  their  appearance,  —  long-legged,  slender- 
bodied,  necks  straight,  light  of  foot,  and  fiery-eyed.  They 
were  soon  mounted,  and  started,  but  I  saw  none  that 
I  considered  swift;  not  one  could  have  run  half  as  fast 
as  a  buck  in  our  woods.  Five  different  sets  were  run,  one 
after  another,  but  I  must  say  I  paid  much  greater  attention 
to  a  Mameluke  on  a  dark  Arab  steed,  which  with  wonder- 
ful ease  leaped  over  the  ground  like  a  Squirrel ;  going  at 
times  like  the  wind,  then,  being  suddenly  checked  by  his 
rider,  almost  sat  on  his  haunches,  wheeled  on  his  hind  legs, 
and  cut  all  sorts  of  mad  tricks  at  a  word  from  his  skilful 
master.  I  would  rather  see  him  again  than  all  the  races 
in  the  world ;  horse  racing,  like  gambling,  can  only  amuse 
people  who  have  nothing  better  to  attend  to ;  however,  I 
have  seen  a  race ! 

September  30.  I  saw  Constant,  the  great  engraver.  Rue 
Percie,  No.  12;  he  was  at  work,  and  I  thought  he  worked 
well.  I  told  him  the  purpose  of  my  visit,  and  he  dropped 
his  work  at  once  to  see  mine.  How  he  stared  !  how  often 
he  exclaimed,  "  Oh,  mon  Dieu,  quel  ouvrage  !  "  I  showed 
him  all,  and  he  began  calculating,  but  did  so,  far  too  largely 
for  me,  and  we  concluded  no  bargain.  Old  Redout^  visited 
me  and  brought  me  a  letter  from  the  Due  d'0rl6ans,  whom 
I  was  to  call  upon  at  one  o'clock.  Now,  dearest  friend,  as 
I  do  not  see  Dukes  every  day  I  will  give  thee  a  circum- 
stantial account   of    my   visit.      The   Palais   of  the   Due 


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23  WIST  MAIN  STItIT 

WiBSTER.N.Y.  14580 

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^.y 


328 


AUDUBON 


!,! 


d'Orl^ans  is  actually  the  entrance  of  the  Palais-Roy-il, 
where  we  often  go  in  the  evening,  and  is  watched  by  many 
a  sentinel.  On  the  right,  I  saw  a  large,  fat,  red-coated 
man  through  the  ground  window,  whom  I  supposed  the 
porter  of  his  Royal  Highness.  I  entered  and  took  ofifmy 
fur  cap,  and  went  on  in  an  unconcerned  way  towards  the 
stairs,  when  he  stopped  me,  and  asked  my  wishes.  I  told 
him  I  had  an  engagement  with  his  master  at  one,  and  gave 
him  my  card  to  take  up.  He  said  Monseigneur  was  not 
in  (a  downright  lie),  but  that  I  might  go  to  the  ante- 
chamber. I  ordered  the  fat  fellow  to  have  my  portfolio 
taken  upstairs,  and  proceeded  to  mount  the  finest  staircase 
my  feet  have  ever  trod.  The  stairs  parted  at  bottom  in 
rounding  form  of  about  twenty-four  feet  in  breadth,  to 
meet  on  the  second  floor,  on  a  landing  lighted  by  a  sky- 
light, which  permitted  me  to  see  the  beauties  of  the  sur- 
rounding walls,  and  on  this  landing  opened  three  doors, 
two  of  which  I  tried  in  vain  to  open.  The  third,  however, 
gave  way,  and  I  found  myself  in  the  antechamber,  with 
about  twelve  servants,  who  all  rose  and  stood,  until  I  had 
seated  myself  on  a  soft,  red-velvet-covered  bench.  Not  a 
word  was  said  to  me,  and  I  gazed  at  all  of  them  with  a 
strange  sensation  of  awkwardness  mingled  with  my  original 
pride.  This  room  had  bare  walls,  and  a  floor  of  black 
and  white  square  marble  flags.  A  man  I  call  a  sergeant 
d'armes,  not  knowing  whether  I  am  right  or  wrong,  wore 
a  sword  fastened  to  a  belt  of  embroidered  silk,  very  wide; 
and  he  alone  retained  his  hat.  In  a  fev/  .ninutes  a  tall, 
thin  gentleman  made  his  entrance  from  another  direction 
from  that  by  which  I  had  come.  The  servants  were  again 
all  up  in  a  moment,  the  sergeant  took  off"  his  hat,  and  the 
gentleman  disappeared  as  if  he  had  not  seen  me,  though  I 
had  risen  and  bowed.  A  few  minutes  elapsed,  when  the 
same  thing  occurred  again.  Not  knowing  how  long  this 
might  continue,  I  accosted  the  sergeant,  told  him  I  came 
at  the  request  of  the  Duke,  and  wished   to  see  him.    A 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


329 


is-Roy'il, 
by  many 
2d-coated 
)osed  the 
ok  off  my 
wards  the 
:s.     I  told 
,  and  gave 
XX  was  not 
the  ante- 
,  portfolio 
5t  staircase 
bottom  in 
)readth,  to 
1  by  a  sky- 
of  the  sur- 
hree  doors, 
d,  however, 
imber,  with 
until  I  had 
ich.    Not  a 
lem  with  a 
my  original 
or  of  black 
\  a  sergeant 
rong,  wore 
very  wide ; 
,nutes  a  tall, 
ler  direction 
were  again 
hat,  and  the 
e,  though  1 
;d,  when  the 
,w  long  this 
Ihim  I  came 
Isee  him.   A 


profound  bow  was  the  answer,  and  I  was  conducted  to 
another  room,  where  several  gentlemen  were  seated  writing. 
I  let  one  of  them  know  my  errand,  and  in  a  moment  was 
shown  into  an  immense  and  superbly  furnished  apartment, 
and  my  book  was  ordered  to  be  brought  up.  In  this  room 
I  bowed  to  two  gentlemen  whom  I  knew  to  be  members  of 
the  Legion  d'Honneur,  and  walked  about  admiring  the 
fine  marble  statues  and  the  paintings.  A  gentleman 
soon  came  to  me,  and  asked  if  perchance  my  name 
was  Audubon?  I  bowed,  and  he  replied:  "  Bless  me,  we 
thought  that  you  had  gone  and  left  your  portfolio ;  my 
uncle  has  been  waiting  for  you  twenty  minutes;  pray, 
sir,  follow  me."  We  passed  through  a  file  of  bowing 
domestics,  and  a  door  being  opened  I  saw  the  Duke 
coming  towards  me,  to  whom  I  was  introduced  by  the 
nephew.  Lucy,  Kentucky,  Tennessee,  and  Alabama  have 
furnished  the  finest  men  in  the  world,  as  regards  physical 
beauty;  I  have  also  seen  many  a  noble-looking  Osage 
chief;  but  I  do  not  recollect  a  finer-looking  man,  in  form, 
deportment,  and  manners,  than  this  Due  d'Orleans.  He 
had  my  book  brought  up,  and  helped  me  to  untie  the 
strings  and  arrange  the  table,  and  began  by  saying  that  he 
felt  a  great  pleasure  in  subscribing  to  the  work  of  an 
American,  for  that  he  had  been  most  kindly  treated  in  the 
United  States,  and  should  never  forget  it.  The  portfolio 
was  at  last  opened,  and  when  I  held  up  the  plate  of  the 
Baltimore  Orioles,  with  a  nest  swinging  amongst  the  tender 
twigs  of  the  yellow  poplar,  he  said :  "  This  surpasses  all  I 
have  seen,  and  I  am  not  astonished  now  at  the  eulogiums 
of  M.  Redoute."  He  spoke  partly  English,  and  partly 
French;  spoke  much  of  America,  of  Pittsburgh,  the  Ohio, 
New  Orleans,  the  Mississippi,  steamboats,  etc.,  etc.,  and 
added:  "You  are  a  great  nation,  a  wonderful  nation." 

The  Duke  promised  me  to  write  to  the  Emperor  of 
Austria,  King  of  Sweden,  and  other  crowned  heads,  and 
asked  me  to  write  to-day  to  the  Minister  of  the  Interior.     I 


330 


AUDUBON 


'{ jFj^^^^H 

remained  talking  with  him  more  than  an  hour;  I  showed 
him  my  list  of  English  subscribers,  many  of  whom  he  knew. 
I  asked  him  for  his  own  signature ;  he  took  my  list  and  with 
a  smile  wrote,  in  very  large  and  legible  characters, "  Le  Due 
d'Orleans."  I  now  felt  to  remain  longer  would  be  an  in- 
trusion, and  thanking  him  respectfully  I  bowed,  shook 
hands  with  him,  and  retired.  He  wished  to  keep  the  set  I 
had  shown  him,  but  it  was  soiled,  and  tc  such  a  good  man 
a  good  set  must  go.  At  the  door  I  asked  the  fat  porter 
if  he  would  tell  me  again  his  master  was  out.  He  tried  in 
vain  to  blush. 

October  1.  Received  to-day  the  note  from  the  Minister 
of  the  Interior  asking  me  to  call  to-morrow  at  two.  At 
eight  in  the  evening  I  vas  ready  for  M.  Valenciennes  to 
call  for  me  to  go  with  him  to  Gerard.  I  waited  till  ten, 
when  my  gentleman  came,  and  off  we  went ;  what  a  time 
to  pay  a  visit !  But  I  was  told  G6rard  ^  keeps  late  hours, 
rarely  goes  to  bed  before  two,  but  is  up  and  at  work  by 
ten  or  eleven.  When  I  entered  I  found  the  rooms  filled 
with  both  sexes,  and  my  name  being  announced,  a  small, 
well-formed  man  came  to  me,  took  my  hand,  and  said, 
"  Welcome,  Brother  in  Arts."  I  liked  this  much,  and  was 
gratified  to  have  the  ice  broken  so  easily.  Gerard  was  all 
curiosity  to  see  my  drawings,  and  old  Redout^,  who  was 
present,  spoke  so  highly  of  them  before  the  book  was 
opened,  that  I  feared  to  discover  Gerard's  disappointment. 
The  book  opened  accidentally  at  the  plate  of  the  Parrots, 
and  Gerard,  taking  it  up  without  speaking,  looked  at  it,  I 
assure  thee,  with  as  keen  an  eye  as  my  own,  for  several 
minutes ;  put  it  down,  took  up  the  one  of  the  Mocking- 
Birds,  and,  oflfering  me  his  hand,  said :  "  Mr.  Audubon, 
you  r^re  the  king  of  ornithological  painters;  we  are  all 
children  in  France  and  in  Europe.  Who  would  have  ex- 
pected such  things  from  the  woods  of  America?"    My 

*  Fran9ois  Gerard,  born  at  Rome   1770,  died   1837  ;  the  best  French 
portrait  painter  of  his  time,  distinguished  also  for  historical  pictures. 


— ^^^Ip^ 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


331 


heart  thrilled  with  pride  at  his  words.  Are  not  we  of 
America  men?  Have  we  not  the  same  nerves,  sinews,  and 
mental  faculties  which  other  nations  possess?  By  Wash- 
ington !  we  have,  and  may  God  grant  us  the  peaceable  use 
of  them  forever.  I  received  compliments  from  all  around 
me ;  Gerard  spoke  of  nothing  but  my  work,  and  requested 
some  prospectuses  for  Italy.  He  repeated  what  Baron 
Cuvicr  had  said  in  the  morning,  and  hoped  that  the  Minis- 
ter would  order  a  good,  round  set  of  copies  for  the  Govern- 
ment. I  closed  the  book,  and  rambled  around  the  rooms 
which  were  all  ornamented  with  superb  prints,  mostly  of 
Gerard's  own  paintings.  The  ladies  were  all  engaged  at 
cards,  and  money  did  not  appear  to  be  scarce  in  this 
portion  of  Paris. 

October  2,  Well,  my  Lucy,  this  day  found  me,  about 
two  o'clock,  in  contemplation  of  a  picture  by  Gerard  in 
the  salon  of  the  Minister  of  the  Interior.  Very  different, 
is  it  not,  from  looking  up  a  large  decaying  tree,  watching 
the  movements  of  a  Woodpecker?  I  was  one  of  several 
who  were  waiting,  but  only  one  person  was  there  when  I 
arrived,  who  entered  into  conversation  with  me,  —  a  most 
agreeable  man  and  the  King's  physician,  possessed  of  fine 
address  and  much  learning,  being  also  a  good  botanist. 
Half  an  hour  elapsed,  when  the  physician  was  called ;  he 
was  absent  only  a  few  minutes,  and  returning  bowed  to  me 
and  smiled  as  my  name  was  called.  I  found  the  Minister  a 
man  about  my  own  age,  apparently  worn  out  with  business ; 
he  wore  a  long,  loose,  gray  surtout,  and  said,  "  Well,  sir, 
I  am  glad  to  see  you  ;  where  is  your  great  work?  "  I  had 
the  portfolio  brought  in,  and  the  plates  were  exhibited. 
"  Really,  monsieur,  it  is  a  very  fine  thing;  "  and  after  some 
questions  and  a  little  conversation  he  asked  me  to  write  to 
him  again,  and  put  my  terms  in  writing,  and  he  would 
reply  as  soon  as  possible.  He  looked  at  me  very  fixedly, 
but  so  courteously  I  did  not  mind  it.  I  tied  up  my 
portfolio  and  soon   departed,  having  taken  as  much  of 


\  w  ■  i: 


:i 


ft' 


332 


AUDUBON 


the  time  of  M.  de  Marignac  as  I  felt  I  could  do  at  this 
hour. 

October  4-     Went  with  Swainson  to  the  Jardin  du  Roi 
to  interpret  for  him,  and  afterwards  spent  some  time  with 
Geoffroy  de  St.  Hilaire,  hearing  from  him  some  curious 
facts  respecting  the  habits  and  conformation  of  the  Mole. 
He  gave  me  a  ticket  to  the  distribution  of  the  Grand  Prix 
at  the  Institut.     I  then  ascended  four  of  the  longest  stair- 
cases I  know,  to   reach  the  cabinet  of  M.  Pascale,  the 
director  of  the  expenses  of  S.  A.  R.  the  Due  d'Orldans. 
What  order  was  here  !     Different  bookcases  contained  the 
papers  belonging  to  the  forests  —  horses  —  furniture  —  fine 
arts  —  libraries  —  fisheries  —  personal  expenses,  and  so  on. 
M.  Pascale  took  out  M.  Redout^'s  letter,  and  I  perceived 
the  day  of  subscription,  number  of  plates  per  annum,  all, 
was  noted  on  the   margin.     M.   Pascale   sent  me  to  the 
private  apartments  of  the  Duchesse.     Judge  of  my  aston- 
ishment when  I  found  this  house  connected  with  the  Palais- 
Royal.     I   went  through   a   long  train  of  corridors,  and 
reached  the  cabinet  of  M.  Goutard.     He  took  my  name 
and  heard  my  request  and  promised  to  make  an  appoint- 
ment for  me  through  M.    Redout^,  who  is  the  drawing- 
master  of  the  daughters  of  the  Duchesse.     With  Parker  I 
went  to  see  the  distribution  of  prizes  at  L'Institut  Fran9ais. 
The  entrance  was  crowded,  and,  as  in  France  pushing  and 
scrambling  to  get  forward  is  out  of  the  question,  and  very 
properly  so,  I  think,  we  reached  the  amphitheatre  when  it 
was  already  well  filled  with   a  brilliant  assemblage,  but 
secured  places  where  all  could  be   seen.     The  members 
dress  in  black  trimmed  with  rich  green  laces.    The  youths 
aspiring  to  rewards  were  seated  round  a  table,  facing  the 
audience.     The  reports  read,  the  prizes  were  given,  those 
thus  favored  receiving  a  crown  of  laurel  with  either  a  gold 
or  silver  medal.     We  remained  here  from  two  till  five. 

Sunday,  October  5.     After  a  wonderful  service  at  Notre 
Dame  I  wandered  through  Les  Jardins  des  Plantes,  and 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


333 


on  to  Cuvier's,  who  had  promised  me  a  letter  to  some  one 
who  would,  he  thought,  subscribe  to  my  book;  but  with 
his  usual  procrastination  it  was  not  ready,  and  he  said  he 
would  write  it  to-morrow.  Oh,  cursed  to-morrow !  Do  men 
forget,  or  do  they  not  know  how  swiftly  time  moves  on? 

October  6.  Scarce  anything  to  write.  No  letter  yet 
from  the  Minister  of  the  Interior,  and  I  fear  he  too  is  a 
"To-morrow  man."  I  went  to  Cuvier  for  his  letter;  when 
he  saw  me  he  laughed,  and  told  me  to  sit  down  and  see 
his  specimens  for  a  little  while ;  he  was  surrounded  by 
reptiles  of  all  sorts,  arranging  and  labelling  them.  In  half 
an  hour  he  rose  and  wrote  the  letter  for  me  to  the  Duke 
of  Levis,  but  it  was  too  late  to  deliver  it  to-day. 

October  7.  While  with  M.  Lesson  to-day,  he  spoke  of 
a  Monsieur  d'Orbigny  ^  of  La  Rochelle ;  and  on  my  making 
some  inquiries  I  discovered  he  was  the  friend  of  my  early 
days,  my  intimate  companion  during  my  last  voyage  from 
France  to  America;  that  he  was  still  fond  of  natural 
history,  and  had  the  management  of  the  Musee  at  La 
Rochelle.  His  son  Charles,  now  twenty-one,  I  had  held  in 
my  arms  many  times,  and  as  M.  Lesson  said  he  was  in 
Paris,  I  went  at  once  to  find  him ;  he  was  out,  but  shortly 
after  I  had  a  note  from  him  saying  he  would  call  to-morrow 
morning. 

October  8.  This  morning  I  had  the  great  pleasure  of 
receiving  my  god-son  Charles  d'Orbigny.  Oh  !  what  past 
times  were  brought  to  my  mind.  He  told  me  he  had  often 
heard  of  me  from  his  father,  and  appeared  delightM  to 
meet  me.  He,  too,  like  the  rest  of  his  family,  is  a  naturalist, 
and  I  showed  him  my  work  with  unusual  pleasure.  His 
father  was  the  most  intimate  friend  I  have  ever  had,  except 
thee,  my  Lucy,  and  my  father.  I  think  I  must  have  asked 
a  dozen  times  to-day  if  no  letter  had  come  for  me.  Oh, 
Ministers!  what  patience  you  do  teach  artists! 

^  Charles  d'Orbigny,  son  of  Audubon's  early  friend,  M.  le  docteur 
d'Orbigny. 


iMpi 


U  '■'^:: 


334 


AUDUBON 


October  11.  This  afternoon,  as  I  was  despairing  about 
the  ministers,  I  received  a  note  from  Vicomte  Simeon,' 
desiring  I  should  call  on  Monday.  I  may  then  finish 
with  these  high  dignitaries.  I  saw  the  King  and  royal 
family  get  out  of  their  carriages  at  the  Tuileries;  bless 
us!  what  a  show!  Carriages  fairly  glittering  —  eight 
horses  in  each,  and  two  hundred  hussars  and  outriders, 
A  fine  band  of  music  announced  their  arrival.  Dined  at 
Baron  Cuvier's,  who  subscribed  to  my  work;  he  being  the 
father  of  all  naturalists,  I  felt  great  pleasure  at  this.  I 
left  at  eleven,  the  streets  dark  and  greasy,  and  made  for 
the  shortest  way  to  my  hotel,  which,  as  Paris  is  a  small 
town  compared  to  London,  I  found  no  difficulty  in  doing. 
I  am  astonished  to  see  how  early  all  the  shops  close  here, 

October  13.  At  twelve  o'clock  I  was  seated  in  the 
antechamber  of  the  Vicomte  Simeon ;  when  the  sergeant 
perceived  me  he  came  to  me  and  said  that  M.  Simeon 
desired  me  to  have  the  first  interview.  I  followed  him 
and  saw  a  man  of  ordinary  stature,  about  forty,  fresh-look 
ing,  and  so  used  to  the  courtesy  of  the  great  world  that 
before  I  had  opened  my  lips  he  had  paid  me  a  very  hand- 
some compliment,  which  I  have  forgot.  The  size  of  my 
work  astonished  him,  as  it  does  every  one  who  sees  it  for 
the  first  time.  He  told  me  that  the  work  had  been  under 
discussion,  and  that  he  advised  me  to  see  Baron  de  la 
Brouillerie  and  Baron  Vacher,  the  secretary  of  the  Dau- 
phin. I  told  him  I  wished  to  return  to  England  to  super- 
intend my  work  there,  and  he  promised  I  should  have  the 
decision  to-morrow  (hated  word!)  or  the  next  day.  I 
thought  him  kind  and  complaisant.  He  gave  the  signal 
for  my  departure  by  bowing,  and  I  lifted  my  book,  as  il 
made  of  feathers,  and  passed  out  with  swiftness  and  alac- 
rity. I  ordered  the  cab  at  once  to  the  Tuileries,  and 
after  some  trouble  found  the  Cabinet  of  the  Baron  de 
Vacher;  there,  Lucy,  I  really  waited  like  a  Blue  Heron 

1  Count  Joseph  J6r8me  Simeon,  French  Minister  of  State.    I78i-i846' 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


335 


on  the  edge  of  a  deep  lake,  the  bottom  of  which  the  bird 
cannot  find,  nor  even  know  whether  it  may  turn  out  to 
be  good  fishing.  Many  had  their  turns  before  me,  but  I 
had  my  interview.  The  Baron,  a  fine  young  man  about 
twenty-eight,  promised  me  to  do  all  he  could,  but  that  his 
master  was  allowed  so  much  (how  much  I  do  not  know), 
and  his  expenses  swallowed  all. 

October  14.  Accompanied  Parker  while  he  was  paint- 
ing Redout^'s  portrait,  and  during  the  outlining  of  that 
fine  head  I  was  looking  over  the  original  drawings  of  the 
great  man;  never  have  I  seen  drawings  more  beautifully 
wrought  up,  and  so  true  to  nature.  The  washy,  slack, 
imperfect  messes  of  the  British  artists  are  nothing  in 
comparison.  I  remained  here  three  hours,  which  I  en- 
joyed much. 

October  15.  Not  a  word  from  the  minister,  and  the 
time  goes  faster  than  I  like,  I  assure  thee.  Could  the 
minister  know  how  painful  it  is  for  an  individual  like  me 
to  wait  nearly  a  month  for  a  decision  that  might  just  as 
well  have  been  concluded  in  one  minute,  I  am  sure  things 
would  be  different. 

October  18.  I  have  seen  two  ministers  this  day,  but 
from  both  had  only  promises.  But  this  day  has  consider- 
ably altered  my  ideas  of  ministers.  I  have  had  a  fair 
opportunity  of  seeing  how  much  trouble  they  have,  and 
how  necessary  it  is  to  be  patient  with  them.  I  arrived  at 
Baron  de  la  Brouillerie's  at  half-past  eleven.  A  soldier 
took  my  portfolio,  that  weighs  nearly  a  hundred  pounds, 
and  showed  me  the  entrance  to  a  magnificent  antecham- 
ber. Four  gentlemen  and  a  lady  were  there,  and  after 
they  had  been  admitted  and  dismissed,  my  name  was 
called.  The  Baron  is  about  sixty  years  old;  tall,  thin, 
not  handsome,  red  in  the  face,  and  stiff  in  his  manners. 
I  opened  my  book,  of  which  he  said  he  had  read  much  in 
the  papers,  and  asked  me  why  I  had  not  applied  to  him 
before.     I  told  him  I  had  written  some  weeks  ago.     This 


4 


! 


IHMfflfJ 


I  '■: 


336 


AUDUBON 


he  had  forgot,  but  now  remembered,  somewhat  to  his 
embarrassment.  He  examined  every  sheet  very  closely, 
said  he  would  speak  to  the  King,  and  I  must  send  him  a 
written  and  exact  memorandum  of  everything.  He  ex- 
pressed surprise  the  Due  d'Orl^ans  had  taken  only  one 
copy.  I  walked  from  here  to  Vicomte  Simeon.  It  was 
his  audience  day,  and  in  the  antechamber  twenty-six 
were  already  waiting.  My  seat  was  close  to  the  door  of 
his  cabinet,  and  I  could  not  help  hearing  some  words 
during  my  penance,  which  lasted  one  hour  and  a  half. 
The  Vicomte  received  every  one  with  the  same  words, 
"Monsieur  (or  Madame),  j'ai  I'honneur  de  vous  saluer;" 
and  when  each  retired,  "  Monsieur,  je  suis  votre  tris 
humble  serviteur. "  Conceive,  my  Lucy,  the  situation  of 
this  unfortunate  being,  in  his  cabinet  since  eleven,  re- 
peating these  sentences  to  upwards  of  one  hundred  per- 
sons, answering  questions  on  as  many  different  subjects. 
What  brains  he  must  have,  and  —  how  long  can  he  keep 
them }  As  soon  as  I  entered  he  said :  "  Your  business  is 
being  attended  to,  and  I  give  you  my  word  you  shall  have 
your  answer  on  Tuesday.  Have  you  seen  Barons  Vacher 
and  La  Brouillerie.^"  I  told  him  I  had,  and  he  wished 
me  success  as  I  retired. 

October  19.  About  twelve  walked  to  the  plains  d'Issy 
to  see  the  review  of  the  troops  by  the  King  in  person.  It 
is  about  eight  miles  from  that  portion  of  Paris  where  I 
was,  and  I  walked  it  with  extreme  swiftness,  say  five  and 
a  half  miles  per  hour.  The  plain  is  on  the  south  bank  of 
the  Seine,  and  almost  level.  Some  thousands  of  soldiers 
were  already  ranged  in  long'  lines,  handsomely  dressed, 
and  armed  as  if  about  to  be  in  action.  I  made  for  the  top 
of  a  high  wall,  which  I  reached  at  the  risk  of  breaking  my 
neck,  and  there,  like  an  Eagle  on  a  rock,  I  surveyed  all 
around  me.  The  carriage  of  the  Due  d' Orleans  came 
first  at  full  gallop,  all  the  men  in  crimson  liveries,  and 
the  music  struck  up  like  the  thunder  of  war.     Then  the 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


337 


lat  to  his 
y  closely, 
end  him  a 
He  ex- 
1  only  one 
n.     It  was 

twenty-six 
the  door  of 
ome  words 
and  a  half, 
ame  words, 
us  saluer;" 
}  votre  tr^s 
situation  of 

eleven,  re- 
lundred  per- 
mt  subjects. 
can  he  keep 
r  business  is 
Du  shall  have 
arons  Vacher 
d  he  wished 


King,  all  his  men  in  white  liveries,  came  driving  at  full 
speed,  and  followed  by  other  grandees.     The  King  and 
these  gentry  descended  from  their  carriages  and  mounted 
fine  horses,  which  were  in  readiness  for  them ;  they  were 
immediately  surrounded  by  a  brilliant  staff,  and  the  re- 
view began,  the  Duchesses  d' Orleans  and  de  Berry  hav- 
ing now  arrived  in  open  carriages;  from  my  perch  I  saw 
all.     The  Swiss  troops  began,  and  the  manoeuvres  were 
finely  gone  through;  three  times  I  was  within  twenty- 
five  yards  of  the  King  and  his  staff,  and,  as  a  Kentuckian 
would  say,  "could  have  closed  his  eye  with  a  rifle  bullet." 
He  is  a  man  of  small  stature,  pale,  not  at  all  handsome, 
and  rode  so  bent  over  his  horse  that  his  appearance  was 
neither  kingly  nor  prepossessing.     He  wore  a  three-cor- 
nered hat,  trimmed  with  white  feathers,  and  had  a  broad 
blue  sash  from  the  left  shoulder  under  his  right  arm. 
The  Due  d'Orl^ans  looked  uncommonly  well  in  a  hussar 
uniform,  and  is  a  fine   rider;    he  sat   his  horse  like  a 
Turk.     The  staff  was  too  gaudy;  I  like  not  so  much  gold 
and  silver.    None  of  the  ladies  were  connections  of  Venus, 
except  most  distantly ;  few  Frenchwomen  are  handsome. 
The  review  over,  the  King  and  his  train  rode  off.     I  saw 
a  lady  in  a  carriage  point  at  me  on  the  wall ;  she  doubt- 
less took  me  for  a  large  black  Crow.     The  music  was  un- 
commonly fine,  especially  that  by  the  band  belonging  to 
the  Cuirassiers,  which  was  largely  composed  of  trumpets 
of  various  kinds,  and  aroused  my  warlike  feelings.     The 
Kihj,  and  staff  being  now  posted  at  some  little  distance,  a 
new  movement  began,  the  cannon  roared,  the  horses  gal- 
loped madly,  the  men  were  eftveloped  in  clouds  of  dust  and 
smoke ;  this  was  a  sham  battle.     No  place  of  retreat  was 
here,  no  cover  of  dark  woods,  no  deep  swamp ;  there  would 
have  been  no  escape  here.     This  was  no  battle  of  New 
Orleans,  nor  Tippecanoe.     I  came  down  from  my  perch, 
leaving  behind  me  about  thirty  thousand  idlers  like  myself, 
and  the  soldiers,  who  must  have  been  hot  and  dusty  enough, 
voui.  — 22 


.  ii 


I      I 


4     ^ms 


338 


A  UDUBON 


r^i 


October  20.  Nothing  to  do,  and  tired  of  sight-seeing. 
Four  subscriptions  in  seven  weeks.  Slow  work  indeed. 
I  took  a  long  walk,  and  watched  the  Stock  Pigeons  or 
Cushats  in  the  trees  of  Le  Jardin  des  Tuileries,  where  they 
roost  in  considerable  numbers,  arriving  about  sunset. 
They  settle  at  first  on  the  highest  trees,  and  driest,  naked 
branches,  then  gradually  lower  themselves,  approach  the 
trunks  of  the  trees,  and  thickest  parts,  remain  for  the 
night,  leave  at  day-break,  and  fly  northerly.  Blackbirds 
do  the  same,  and  are  always  extremely  noisy  before  dark; 
a  few  Rooks  are  seen,  and  two  or  three  Magpies.  In  the 
Jardin,  and  in  the  walks  of  the  Palais-Royal,  the  common 
Sparrow  is  prodigiously  plenty,  very  tame,  fed  by  ladies 
and  children,  killed  or  missed  with  blow-guns  by  mis- 
chievous boys.  The  Moun^ain  Finch  passes  in  scattered 
numbers  over  Paris  at  this  season,  going  northerly,  and 
is  caught  in  nets.  Now,  my  love,  wouldst  thou  not  be- 
lieve  me  once  more  in  the  woods,  hard  at  it?  Alas!  I 
wish  I  was ;  what  precious  time  I  am  wasting  in  Europe. 

October  21.  Redout6  told  me  the  young  Duchesse 
d'0rl6ans  had  subscribed,  and  I  would  receive  a  letter  to 
that  effect.  Cuvier  sent  me  one  hundred  printed  copies 
of  his  Proch  verbal. 

October  22.  The  second  day  of  promise  is  over,  and 
not  a  word  from  either  of  the  ministers.  Now,  do  those 
good  gentlemen  expect  me  to  remain  in  Paris  all  my  life.' 
They  are  mistaken.  Saturday  I  pack;  on  Tuesday  morn- 
ing farewell  to  Paris.  Redout^  sent  me  three  volumes  of 
his  beautiful  roses,  which  thou  wilt  so  enjoy,  and  a  com- 
pliment which  is  beyond  all  trruth,  so  I  will  not  repeat  it. 

October  26.  I  received  a  letter  from  Baron  de  la 
Brouillerie  announcing  that  the  King  had  subscribed  to 
my  work  for  his  private  library.  I  was  visited  by  the 
secretary  of  the  Due  d' Orleans,  who  sat  with  me  some  time, 
a  clever  and  entertaining  man  with  whom  I  felt  quite  at 
ease.     He  told  me  that  I  might  now  expect  the  subscrip- 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


339 


tions  of  most  of  the  royal  family,  because  none  of  them 
liked  to  be  outdone  or  surpassed  by  any  of  the  others.* 
Good  God !  what  a  spirit  is  this ;  what  a  world  we  live  in ! 
I  also  received  a  M.  Pitois,  who  came  to  look  at  my  book, 
with  a  view  to  becoming  my  agent  here;  Baron  Cuvier 
recommended  him  strongly,  and  I  have  concluded  a  bar- 
gain with  him.  He  thinks  he  can  procure  a  good  number 
of  names.  His  manners  are  plain,  and  I  hope  he  will 
prove  an  honest  man.  He  had  hardly  gone,  when  I  re- 
ceived a  letter  from  M.  Simeon,  telling  me  the  Minister 
of  the  Interior  would  take  six  copies  for  various  French 
towns  and  universities,  and  he  regretted  it  was  not 
twelve.  So  did  I,  but  I  am  well  contented.  I  have 
now  thirteen  subscribers  in  Paris ;  I  have  been  here  two 
months,  and  have  expended  forty  pounds.  My  adieux 
will  now  be  made,  and  I  shall  be  en  route  for  London 
before  long. 

London,  November  Ij..  I  travelled  from  Paris  to  Bou- 
logne with  two  nuns,  that  might  as  well  be  struck  off  the 
calendar  of  animated  beings.  They  stirred  not,  they 
spoke  not,  they  saw  not;  they  replied  neither  by  word 
nor  gesture  to  the  few  remarks  I  made.  In  the  woods  of 
America  I  have  never  been  in  such  silence;  for  in  the 
most  retired  places  I  have  had  the  gentle  murmuring 
streamlet,  or  the  sound  of  the  Woodpecker  tapping,  or  the 
sweet  melodious  strains  of  that  lovely  recluse,  my  great- 
est favorite,  the  Wood  Thrush.  The  great  poverty  of 
the  country  struck  me  everywhere ;  the  peasantry  are  beg- 
garly and  ignorant,  few  know  the  name  of  the  D^partement 
in  which  they  live ;  their  hovels  are  dirty  and  uncomfort- 
able, and  appear  wretched  indeed  after  Paris.  In  Paris 
alone  can  the  refinements  of  society,  education,  and  the 
fine  arts  be  found.  To  Paris,  or  to  the  large  cities,  the 
country  gentleman  must  go,  or  have  nothing;  how  unlike 
the  beautiful  country  homes  of  the  English.  I  doubt  not 
^  The  words  of  the  secretary  were  fully  verified  within  a  few  months. 


!■:• 

V 


;  1  ;4  jJ 


iU'\ 


340 


AUDUBON 


the  "  New  Monthly  "  would  cry  out :  "  Here  is  Audubon 
again,  in  all  his  extravagance."  This  may  be  true,  but  I 
write  as  I  think  I  see,  and  that  is  enough  to  render  me 
contented  with  my  words.  The  passage  from  Calais  was 
short,  and  I  was  free  from  my  usual  seasickness,  and 
London  was  soon  reached,  where  I  have  been  busy  with 
many  letters,  many  friends,  and  my  work.  I  have  pre- 
sented a  copy  of  my  birds  to  the  Linnsean  Society,  and 
sold  a  little  picture  for  ten  guineas.  And  now  I  must  to 
work  on  the  pictures  that  have  been  ordered  in  France. 

November  7.  To-day  is  of  some  account,  as  Mr.  Havell 
has  taken  the  drawings  that  are  to  form  the  eleventh 
number  of  my  work.  It  will  be  the  first  number  for  the 
year  1829.  I  have  as  yet  had  no  answer  from  the  Lin- 
naean  Society,  but  thou  knowest  how  impatient  my  poor 
nature  always  is. 

November  10.  I  have  been  painting  as  much  as  the 
short  days  will  allow,  but  it  is  very  hard  for  me  to  do  so, 
as  my  Southern  constitution  suffers  so  keenly  from  the 
cold  that  I  am  freezing  on  the  side  farthest  from  the  fire 
at  this  very  instant.  I  have  finisled  the  two  picture-  for 
the  Due  d'Orl^ans;  that  of  the  Grouse  I  regret  muc:.  \.o 
part  with,  without  a  copy ;  however,  I  may  at  some  future 
time  group  another  still  more  naturally. 

November  15.  We  have  had  such  dismal  fog  in  this 
London  that  I  could  scarcely  see  to  write  at  twelve 
o'clock;  however,  I  did  write  nearly  all  day.  It  has  been 
extremely  cold  besides,  and  in  the  streets  in  the  middle 
of  the  day  I  saw  men  carrying  torches,  so  dark  it  was. 

November  17.  I  anticipated  this  day  sending  all  my 
copies  for  Paris,  but  am  sadly  disappointed.  One  of  the 
colorers  employed  brought  a  number  so  shamefully  done 
that  I  would  not  think  of  forwarding  it.  It  has  gone  to 
be  washed,  hot  pressed,  and  done  over  again.  Depend 
upon  it,  my  work  will  not  fail  for  the  want  of  my  own 
very  particular  attention. 


THE  EUROPEAN  JOURNALS 


341 


December  23.  After  so  long  neglecting  thee,  my  dear 
book,  it  would  be  difficult  to  enter  a  connected  account  of 
my  time,  but  I  will  trace  the  prominent  parts  of  the  lapse. 
Painting  every  day.  and  I  may  well  add  constantly,  has 
been  the  main  occupation.  I  have  (what  I  call)  finished 
my  two  large  pictures  of  the  Eagle  and  the  Lamb,  and 
the  Dog  and  the  Pheasants,  and  now,  ?^.i  usual,  can  scarce 
bear  to  look  at  either.  My  friends  the  Swainsons  have 
often  been  to  see  me,  and  good  Bentley  came  and  lived 
with  me  for  a  month  as  a  brother  would.  I  parted  from 
him  yesterday  with  pain  and  regret.  Several  artists  have 
called  upon  me,  and  have  given  vaQ  false  praises,  as  I  have 
heard  afterwards,  and  I  hope  they  will  keep  aloof.  It  is 
charity  to  speak  the  truth  to  a  man  who  knows  the  pov- 
erty of  his  talents  and  wishes  to  improve;  it  is  villa- 
nous  to  mislead  him,  by  praising  him  to  his  face,  and 
laughing  at  his  work  as  they  go  down  the  stairs  of  his 
house.  I  have,  however,  applied  to  one  whom  I  know  to 
be  candid,  and  who  has  promised  to  see  them,  and  to  give 
his  opinion  with  truth  and  simplicity;  this  is  no  other, 
my  Lucy,  than  the  president  of  the  Royal  Academy,  Sir 
Thomas  Lawrence.  The  steady  work  and  want  of  exer- 
cise has  reduced  me  almost  to  a  skeleton ;  I  have  not 
allowed  myself  the  time  even  to  go  to  the  Zoological 
Gardens. 

December  26.  I  dined  yesterday  (another  Christmas 
day  away  from  my  dear  country)  at  a  Mr.  Goddard's;  our 
company  was  formed  of  Americans,  principally  sea-cap- 
tains. During  my  absence  Sir  Thomas  Lawrence  came 
to  see  my  paintings,  which  were  shown  to  him  by  Mr. 
Havell,  who  reported  as  follows.  On  seeing  the  Eagle 
and  Lamb  he  said,  "  That  is  a  fine  picture."  He  exam- 
ined it  closely,  and  was  shown  that  of  the  Pheasants, 
which  I  call  "  Sauve  qui  pent.''  He  approached  it,  looked 
at  it  sideways,  up  and  down,  and  put  his  face  close  to  the 
canvas,  had  it  moved  from  one  situation  to  two  others  in 


f?ffp"p 


mmm 


I.V.' 


5.1  #1 


342 


AUDUBON 


different  lights,  but  gave  no  opinion.  The  Otter  came 
next,  and  he  said  that  the  "  animal "  was  very  fine,  and 
told  Havell  he  would  come  again  to  see  them  in  a  few 
days.  I  paid  him  my  respects  the  next  morning,  and 
thought  him  kinder  than  usual.  He  said  he  would  cer- 
tainly come  to  make  a  choice  for  me  of  one  to  be  exhib- 
ited at  Somerset  House,  and  would  speak  to  the  Council 
about  it. 


The  remaining  three  months  before  Audubon  sailed  for 
America,  April  i,  1829,  were  passed  in  preparations  for 
his  absence  from  his  book,  and  many  pages  of  his  fine, 
close  writing  are  filled  with  memoranda  for  Mr.  Havell, 
Mr.  J.  G.  Children,  and  Mr.  Pitois.  Audubon  writes; 
"  I  have  made  up  my  mind  to  go  to  America,  and  with 
much  labor  and  some  trouble  have  made  ready.  My  busi- 
ness is  as  well  arranged  for  as  possible ;  I  have  given  the 
agency  of  my  work  to  my  excellent  friend  Children,  of 
the  British  Museum,  who  kindly  offered  to  see  to  it  dur- 
ing my  absence.  I  have  collected  some  money,  paid  all 
my  debts,  and  taken  my  passage  in  the  packet-ship 
'Columbia,'  Captain  Delano.  I  chose  the  ship  on  ac- 
count of  her  name,  and  paid  thirty  pounds  for  my  passage. 
I  am  about  to  leave  this  smoky  city  for  Portsmouth,  and 
shall  sail  on  April  i."  The  voyage  was  uneventful,  and 
America  was  reached  on  May  i.  Almost  immediately 
began  the  search  for  new  birds,  and  those  not  delineated 
already,  for  the  continuation  pnd  completion  of  the  "Birds 
of  America." 


Otter  came 
y  fine,  and 
m  in  a  few 
orning,  and 
would  cer- 
:o  be  exhib- 
the  Council 


on  sailed  for 

)arations  for 

of  his  fine, 

Mr.  Havell, 

ubon  writes; 

ca,  and  with 

ly.     My  busi- 

ave  given  the 

Children,  of 

see  to  it  dur- 

3ney,  paid  all 

;    packet-ship 

e  ship  on  ac- 

ir  my  passage. 

rtsmouth,  and 

leventful,  and 

immediately 

lot  delineated 

of  the  "Birds 


(:.  n 


^ 


mmi''     ii^ini'i'in  ■ " 


IS^; 


.^i.,.4 


i. 

j 

3i 

1 

if 

1 

^^Iflf-l 


a 


< 

-4 

Q 

:^ 

2 

■<r 

ol 

U 

U 

z 

< 

S 

U 

q 

';  'S 


r-  ^■■ 


i-i^*i:^i,Ki'...'^i. 


ivfmiwfi 


THE    LABRADOR  JOURNAL 


1833 


--4; 


m 


w 


INTRODUCTION 


f-' 


nPHE  Labrador  trip,  long  contemplated,  was 
■^  made  with  the  usual  object,  that  of  procur- 
ing birds  and  making  the  drawings  of  them  for  the 
continuation  of  the  "  Birds  of  America,"  the  pub- 
lication of  which  was  being  carried  on  by  the 
Havells,  under  the  supervision  of  Victor,  the  elder 
son,  who  was  in  London  at  this  time.  To  him 
Audubon  writes  from  Eastport,  Maine,  under  date 
of  May  31,  1833:  — 

"We  are  on  the  eve  of  our  departure  for  the 
coast  of  Labrador.  Our  party  consists  of  young  Dr. 
George  Shattuck  of  Boston,  Thomas  Lincoln  of 
Dennysville,  William  Ingalls,  son  of  Dr.  Ingalls  of 
Boston,  Joseph  Coolidge,  John,  and  myself.  I  have 
chartered  a  schooner  called  the  '  Ripley,'  com- 
manded by  Captain  Emery,  who  was  at  school  with 
my  friend  Lincoln;  he  is  reputed  to  be  a  gentleman, 
as  well  as  a  good  sailor.  Coolidge,  too,  has  been 
bred  to  the  sea,  and  is  a  fine,  active  youth  of  twenty- 
one.  The  schooner  is  a  new  vessel,  only  a  year 
old,  of  106  tons,  for  which  we  pay  three  hundred 
and  fifty  dollars  per  month  for  the  entire  use  of 
the  vessel  with  the  men,  but  we  supply  ourselves 


Jffflpili^^" 


:  •■■fi; 


346 


INTRODUCTION 


with  provisions.^     The  hold  of  tlie  vessel  has  been 
floored,  and  our  great  table  solidly  fixed  in  a  toler- 
ably good  light   under  the  main  hatch ;   it  is  my 
intention  to  draw  whenever  possible,  and  that  will 
be  many  hours,  for  the  daylight  is  with  us  nearly 
all  the  time  in  those  latitudes,  and  the  fishermen 
say  you  can  do  with  little  sleep,  the  air  is  so  pure. 
I  have  been  working  hard  at  the  birds  from  the 
Grand  Menan,  as  well  as  John,  who  is  overcoming 
his  habit  of  sleeping  late,  as  I  call  him  every  morn- 
ing at  four,  and  we  have  famous  long  days.    We 
are  well  provided  as  to  clothes,  and  strange  figures 
indeed  do  we  cut  in  our  dresses,  I  promise  you: 
fishermen's  boots,  the  soles  of  which  are  all  nailed 
to  enable  us  to  keep  our  footing  on  the  sea-weeds, 
trousers  oi  fearnought  so  coarse  that  our  legs  look 
like  bears'  legs,  oiled  jackets  and  over-trousers  for 
rainy  weather,  and  round,  white,  wool  hats  with  a 
piece  of  oil  cloth  dangling  on  our  shoulders  to  pre- 
vent the  rain  from  running  down  our  necks.    A 
coarse  bag  is  strapped  on  the  back  to  carry  pro- 
visions on  inland  journeys,  with  our  guns  and  hunt- 
ing-knives ;   you  can  form  an  idea  of  us  from  this. 
Edward  Harris  is  not  to  be  with  us ;  this  I  regret 
more  than  I  can  say.     This  day  seven  vessels  sailed 
for  the   fishing-grounds,  some   of  them  not  more 
than  thirty  tons'  burden,  for  these  hardy  fishermen 

1  These  terms  were  not,  however,  held  to  by  the  owners  of  the  vessel, 
and  the  provisioning  was  left  also  to  them,  the  whole  outlay  being  about 
$1500  for  the  entire  trip. 


/«!p 


INTRODUCTION 


347 


care  not  in  what  they  go;  but  /  doy  and,  indeed, 
such  a  boat  would  be  too  small  for  us." 

The  I  St  of  June  was  the  day  appointed  for  the 
start,  but  various  delays  occurred  which  retarded 
this  until  the  6th,  when  the  journal  which  follows 
tells  its  own   tale. 

Of  all   the  members   of  the  party    Mr.  Joseph 

Coolidge,  now  (1897)  living  in  San  Francisco,  is  the 

sole  survivor. 

M.  R.  A. 


..  Jl 


--■ T 

1 

L 

Ukk 

Tt 


.,  11 


AUDUBON. 

Iroin  iho  pdrtrait  by  George  I'.  A.  Ilcaly,  I.omloii,  1838.    Now  in  the  iMsscssioii  of  the  Boston  Society 

of  Natural  History. 


rrmmmimm 


f)  t 


.» 


THE    LABRADOR   JOURNAL 

1833 

Eastport,  Maine,  June  4-  Our  vessel  is  being  pre- 
pared for  our  reception  and  departure,  and  we  have  con- 
cluded to  hire  two  extra  sailors  and  a  lad  ;  the  latter  to  be 
a  kind  of  major-domo,  to  clean  our  guns,  etc.,  search  for 
nests,  and  assist  in  skinning  birds.  Whilst  rambling  in 
the  woods  this  morning,  I  found  a  Crow's  nest,  with  five 
young,  yet  small.  As  I  ascended  the  tree,  the  parents 
came  to  their  offspring  crying  loudly,  and  with  such  per- 
severance that  in  less  than  fifteen  minutes  upwards  of 
fifty  pairs  of  these  birds  had  joined  in  their  vociferations ; 
yet  when  first  the  parents  began  to  cry  I  would  have 
supposed  them  the  only  pair  in  the  neighborhood. 

Wednesday,  June  5.  This  afternoon,  when  I  had  con- 
cluded that  evcything  relating  to  the  charter  of  the 
"Ripley"  was  arranged,  some  difficulty  arose  between  my- 
self and  Mr.  Buck,  which  nearly  put  a  stop  to  our  having 
his  vessel.  Pressed,  however,  as  I  was,  by  the  lateness  of 
the  season,  I  gave  way  and  suffered  myself  to  be  imposed 
upon  as  usual,  with  a  full  knowledge  that  I  was  so.  The 
charter  was  signed,  and  we  hoped  to  have  sailed,  but 
to-morrow  is  now  the  day  appointed.  Our  promised 
Hampton  boat  is  not  come. 

Thursday,  June  6.  We  lefl  the  wharf  of  Eastport  about 
one  o'clock  p.  m.  Every  one  of  the  male  population  came 
to  see  the  show,  just  as  if  no  schooner  the  size  of  the 


s 


.-.! 


m 


■J 


;l       * 


350 


AUDUBON 


"  Ripley  "  had  ever  gone  from  this  mighty  port  to  Labrador. 
Our  numerous  friends  came  with  the  throng,  and  we  all 
shook  hands  as  if  never  to  meet  again.     The  batteries  of 
the  garrison,  and  the  cannon  of  the  revenue  cutter,  saluted 
us,   each   firing  four   loud,  oft-echoing   reports.     Captain 
Coolidge  accompanied  us,  and  indeed  was  our  pilot,  until 
we  had  passed  Lubec.     The  wind  was   light  and  ahead, 
and  yet  with  the  assistance  of  the  tide  we  drifted  twenty- 
five  miles,  down  to  Little  River,  during  the  night,  and  on 
rising  on  the  morning  of  June  7  we  were  at  anchor  near 
son.e  ugly  rocks,  the  sight  of  which  was  not  pleasing  to 
our  good  captain. 

June  7.    The  whole  morning  was  spent  trying  to  enter 
Little  River,  but  in  vain ;  the  men  were  unable  to  tow  us 
in.     We   landed  for  a  few  minutes,    and   shot   a  Hermit 
Thrush,  but  the  appearance  of  a  breeze  brought  us  back, 
and  we  attempted  to  put  to   sea.     Our  position  now  be- 
came rather  dangerous,  as  we  were  drawn  by  the  current 
nearly  upon  the  rocks ;  but  the  wind  rose  at  last,  and  we 
cleared  for  sea.     At  three  o'clock  it  became  suddenly  so 
foggy  that  we  could  not  see  the  bowsprit.     The  night  was 
spent  in  direful  apprehensions  of  ill  luck;   at  midnight  a 
smart  squall  decided  in  our  favor,  and  when  day  broke  on 
the  morning  of  June  8  the  wind  was  from  the  northeast, 
blowing  fresh,  and   we  were  dancing  on  the   waters,  all 
shockingly  sea-sick,  crossing  that  worst  of  all  dreadful  bays, 
the  Bay  of  Fundy.     We  passed  between  the  Seal  Islands 
and  the  Mud  Islands;    in  the  latter  Procellaria  wi/somi, 
the   Stormy   Petrel,   breeds    abundantly;    their  nests  are 
dug  out  of  the  sand  in  an  oblique  direction  to  the  depth 
of  two,  or  two  and  a  half  feet.     At  the  bottom  of  these 
holes,  and  on  the  sand,  the  birds  deposit  their  pure  white 
eggs.     The  holes  are  perforated,  not  in  the  banks  like  the 
Bank  Swallow,  but  are  like  rat  holes  over  the  whole  of 
the  islands.     On  Seal  Islands  Larus  argentattis,  the  Her- 
ring Gull,  breeds  as  abundantly  as  on  Grand  Menan,  but 


1  IP" 


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351 


altogether  on  trees.  As  we  passed  Cape  Sable,  so  called 
on  account  of  its  being  truly  a  sand-point  of  some  caved-in 
elevation,  we  saw  a  wrecked  ship  with  many  small  crafts 
about  it.  I  saw  there  Uria  troile,  the  Foolish  Guillemot, 
and  some  Gannets.  The  sea  was  dreadful,  and  scarcely 
one  of  us  was  able  to  eat  or  drink  this  day.  We  came 
up  with  the  schooner  "  Caledonia,"  from  Boston  for  Lab- 
rador; her  captain  wished  to  keep  in  our  company, 
and  we  were  pretty  much  together  all  night  and  also  on 
Sunday. 

June  9.  We  now  had  a  splendid  breeze,  but  a  horrid 
sea,  and  were  scarce  able  to  keep  our  feet,  or  sleep.  The 
"Caledonia  "  was  very  near  to  us  for  some  time,  but  when 
the  breeze  increased  to  a  gale,  and  both  vessels  had  to 
reef,  we  showed  ourselves  superior  in  point  of  sailing.  So 
good  was  our  run  that  on  the  next  morning,  June  lO,  we 
found  ourselves  not  more  than  thirty  miles  from  Cape 
Canseau,  ordinarily  called  Cape  Cancer.  The  wind  was 
so  fair  for  proceeding  directly  to  Labrador  that  our  cap- 
tain spoke  of  doing  so,  provided  it  suited  my  views ;  but, 
anxious  as  I  am  not  to  suffer  any  opportunity  to  escape 
of  doing  all  I  can  to  fulfil  my  engagements,  I  desired  that 
we  should  pass  through  what  is  called  "  The  Gut  of  Can- 
seau," and  we  came  into  the  harbor  of  that  name  ^  at 
three  of  the  afternoon.  Here  we  found  Iwcnty  vessels,  all 
bound  to  Labrador,  and,  of  course,  all  fishermen.  We 
had  been  in  view  of  the  southeastern  coast  of  Nova  Scotia 
all  day,  a  dreary,  poor,  and  inhospitable-looking  country. 
As  we  dropped  our  anchor  we  had  a  snowfall,  and  the  sky 
had  an  appearance  such  as  I  never  before  recollect  hav- 
ing seen.  Going  on  shore  we  found  not  a  tree  in  blossom, 
though  the  low  plants  near  the  ground  were  all  in  bV  n; 
I  saw  azaleas,  white  and  blue  violets,  etc.,  and  in  v>me 
situations  the  grass  really  looked  well.  The  Robins  were 
in  full  song ;  one  nest  of  that  bird  was  found ;  the  White- 
*  Now  commonly  spelled  Canso  —  not  Canseau. 


352 


AUDUBON 


throated  Sparrow  and  Savannah  Finch  were  also  in  full 
song.  The  Fringilla  nivalis'^  vizs>  seen,  and  we  were  told 
that  Tetrao  canadensis"^  was  very  abundant,  but  saw  none. 
About  a  dozen  houses  form  this  settlement ;  there  was  no 
Custom  House  officer,  and  not  an  individual  who  could 
give  an  answer  of  any  value  to  our  many  questions.  We 
returned  on  board  and  supped  on  a  fine  codfish.  The 
remainder  of  our  day  was  spent  in  catching  lobsters,  of 
which  we  procured  forty.  They  were  secured  simply  by 
striking  them  in  shallow  water  with  a  gaff-hook.  It  snowed 
and  rained  at  intervals,  and  to  my  surprise  we  did  not 
observe  a  single  seabird. 

June  11.  Lams  marinus  (the  Great  Black-backed 
Gull)  is  so  superior  both  in  strength  and  courage  to  Ful- 
mars, Lestris,  or  even  Gannets,  to  say  nothing  of  Gulls  of  all 
sorts,  that  at  its  approach  they  all  give  way,  and  until  it 
has  quite  satiated  itself,  none  venture  to  approach  the 
precious  morsel  on  which  it  is  feeding.  In  this  respect,  it 
is  as  the  Eagle  to  the  Vultures  or  Carrion  Crows.  I 
omitted  saying  that  last  night,  before  we  retired  to  rest, 
after  much  cold,  snow,  rain,  and  hail,  the  frogs  were  piping 
in  all  the  pools  on  the  shore,  and  we  all  could  hear  them 
clearly,  from  the  deck  of  the  "  Ripley."  The  weather  to-day 
is  beautiful,  the  wind  fair,  and  when  I  reached  the  deck  at 
four  A.  M.  we  were  under  way  in  the  wake  of  the  whole  of 
the  fleet  which  last  evening  graced  the  Harbor  of  Canseau, 
but  which  now  gave  life  to  the  grand  bay  across  which  all 
were  gliding  under  easy  pressure  of  sail.  The  land  locked 
us  in,  the  water  was  smooth,  the  sky  pure,  and  the  ther- 
mometer was  only  46°,  quite  cold;  indeed,  it  was  more 
grateful  to  see  the  sunshine  whilst  on  deck  this  morning, 
and  to  feel  its  warmth,  than  I  can  recollect  before  at  this 
season.  After  sailing  for  twenty-one  miles,  and  passing 
one  after  another  every  vessel  of  the  fleet,  we  entered  the 

^  PUctrophenax  nivalis,  the  Snow  Bunting.  —  E.  C. 
^  Canachites  canadensis,  the  Canada  Grouse.  — E.  C. 


■fW;^^,-'  r^sf- 


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353 


Gut  of  Canseau,  so  named  by  the  Spanish  on  account  of 
the  innumerable  Wild  Geese  which,  in  years  long  past  and 
forgotten,  resorted  to  this  famed  passage.  The  land  rises 
on  each  side  in  the  form  of  an  amphitheatre,  and  on  the 
Nova  Scotia  side,  to  a  considerable  height.  Many  appear- 
ances of  dwellings  exist,  but  the  country  is  too  poor  for 
comfort;  the  timber  is  small,  and  the  land,  very  stony. 
Here  and  there  a  small  patch  of  ploughed  land,  planted,  or 
to  be  planted,  with  potatoes,  was  all  we  could  see  evincing 
cultivation.  Near  one  house  we  saw  a  few  apple-trees,  yet 
without  leaves.  The  general  appearance  of  this  passage 
reminded  me  of  some  parts  of  the  Hudson  River,  and  ac- 
companied as  we  were  by  thirty  smaller  vessels,  the  time 
passed  agreeably.  Vegetation  about  as  forward  as  at  East- 
port;  saw  a  Chimney  Swallow,  heard  some  Blue  Jays,  saw 
some  Indians  in  a  bark  canoe,  passed  Cape  Porcupine,  a 
high,  rounding  hill,  and  Cape  George,  after  which  we  entered 
the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence.  From  this  place,  on  the  20th  of 
May  last  year,  the  sea  was  a  complete  sheet  of  ice  as  far 
as  a  spy-glass  could  inform.  As  we  advanced,  running 
parallel  with  the  western  coast  of  Cape  Breton  Island,  the 
country  looked  well,  at  the  distance  we  were  from  it;  the 
large,  undulating  hills  were  scattered  with  many  hamlets, 
and  here  and  there  a  bit  of  cultivated  land  was  seen.  It 
being  calm  when  we  reached  Jestico  Island,  distant  from 
Cape  Breton  about  three  miles,  we  left  the  vessel  and  made 
for  it.  On  landing  we  found  it  covered  with  well  grown 
grass  sprinkled  everywhere  with  the  blossoms  of  the  wild 
strawberry;  the  sun  shone  bright,  and  the  weather  was 
quite  pleasant.  Robins,  Savannah  Finches,  Song  Spar- 
rows, Tawny  Thrushes,  and  the  American  Redstart  were 
found.  The  Spotted  Sand-piper,  Totatms  maculariiis,  was 
breeding  in  the  grass,  and  flew  slowly  with  the  common 
tremor  of  their  wings,  uttering  their  "  wheet-wheet-wheet" 
note,  to  invite  me  to  follow  them.  A  Raven  had  a  nest 
and  three  young  in  it,  one  standing  near  it,  the  old  birds 

VOL.  I.  — 23 


9 


354 


AUDUBON 


m 


1/  ;■) 


not  seen.  Uria  troile  ^  and  U.grylle'^  were  breeding  in  the 
rocks,  and  John  saw  several  Ardca  hcrodias^  flying  in  pairs, 
also  a  pair  of  Red-breasted  Mergansers  that  had  glutted 
themselves  with  fish  so  tha :  they  were  obliged  to  disgorge 
before  they  could  fly  off.  Amongst  the  plants  the  wild 
gooseberry,  nearly  the  size  of  a  green  pea,  was  plentiful, 
and  the  black  currant,  I  think  of  a  different  species  from 
the  one  found  in  Maine.  The  wind  rose  and  we  returned 
on  board,  John  and  the  sailors  almost  killed  a  Seal  with 
their  oars. 

June  12.  At  four  this  morning  we  were  in  sight  of  the 
Magdalene  Islands,  or,  as  they  are  called  on  the  chart, 
Amherst  Islands ;  they  appeared  to  be  distant  about  twenty 
miles.  The  weather  was  dull  and  quite  calm,  and  I  thought 
the  prospect  of  reaching  these  isles  this  day  very  doubtful, 
and  returned  to  my  berth  sadly  disappointed.  After  break- 
fast a  thick  fog  covered  the  horizon  on  our  bow,  the  islands 
disappeared  from  sight,  and  the  wind  rose  sluggishly,  and 
dead  ahead.  Several  brigs  and  ships  loaded  with  lumber 
out  from  Miramichi  came  near  us,  beating  their  way 
towards  the  Atlantic.  We  are  still  in  a  great  degree  land- 
locked by  Cape  Breton  Island,  the  highlands  of  which  look 
dreary  and  forbidding;  it  is  now  nine  A.  M.,  and  we  are 
at  anchor  in  four  fathoms  of  water,  and  within  a  quarter  of 
a  mile  of  an  island,  one  of  the  general  group  ;  for  our  pilot, 
who  has  been  here  for  ten  successive  years,  informs  us  that 
all  these  islands  are  connected  by  dry  sand-bars,  with- 
out any  other  ship  channel  between  them  than  the  one 
which  we  have  taken,  and  which  is  called  Entree  Bay, 
formed  by  Entree  Island  and  a  long,  sandy,  projecting  reel 
connected  with  the  main  island.  This  latter  measures  forty- 
eight  miles  in  length,  by  an  average  of  about  three  in 
breadth;  Entree  Island  contains  about  fifteen  hundred 
acres  of  land,  such  as  it  is,  of  a  red,  rough,  sandy  formation, 
the  northwest  side  constantly  falling  into  the  sea,  and  ex- 
1  Foolish  Guillemot.        "  Black  Guillemot.        «  Great  Blue  Heron. 


•wrn 


THE  LABRADOR  JOURNAL 


355 


hibiting  a  very  interesting  sight.  Guillemots  were  seen 
seated  upright  along  the  projecting  shelvings  in  regular 
order,  resembling  so  many  sentinels  on  the  look-out. 
Many  Gannets  also  were  seen  about  the  extreme  point  of 
this  island.  On  Amherst  Island  we  saw  many  houses,  a 
small  church,  and  on  the  highest  land  a  large  cross,  indi- 
cating the  Catholic  tendency  of  the  inhabitants.  Several 
small  schooners  lay  in  the  little  harbor  called  Pleasant 
Bay,  and  we  intend  to  pay  them  an  early  visit  to-morrow. 
The  wind  is  so  cold  that  it  feels  to  us  all  like  the  middle 
of  December  at  Boston. 

Magdalene  Islands,  June  IS.  This  day  week  we  were 
at  Eastport,  and  I  am  sure  not  one  of  our  party  thought 
of  being  here  this  day.  At  four  this  morning  we  were 
seated  at  breakfast  around  our  great  drawing-table ;  the 
thermometer  was  at  44° ;  we  blew  our  fingers  and  drank 
our  coffee,  feeling  as  if  in  the  very  heart  of  winter,  and 
when  we  landed  I  felt  so  chilled  that  it  would  have  been 
quite  out  of  the  question  to  use  my  hands  for  any  delicate 
work.  We  landed  between  two  great  bluffs,  that  looked 
down  upon  us  with  apparent  anger,  the  resort  of  many  a 
Black  Guillemot  and  noble  Raven,  and  following  a  tortuous 
path,  suddenly  came  plump  upon  one  of  God's  best  finished 
jewels,  a  woman.  She  saw  us  first,  for  women  are  always 
keenest  in  sight  and  sympathy,  in  perseverance  and 
patience,  in  fortitude,  and  love,  and  sorrow,  and  faith,  and, 
for  aught  I  know,  much  more.  At  the  instant  that  my 
eyes  espied  her,  she  war,  in  full  run  towards  her  cottage, 
holding  to  her  bosom  a  fine  babe,  simply  covered  with  a 
very  short  shirt,  the  very  appearance  of  which  set  me 
shivering.  The  woman  was  dressed  in  coarse  French 
homespun,  a  close  white  cotton  cap  which  entirely  sur- 
rounded her  face  tied  under  her  chin,  and  I  thought  her  the 
wildest-looking  woman,  both  in  form  and  face,  I  had  seen 
for  many  a  day.  At  a  venture,  I  addressed  her  in  French, 
and  it  answered  well,  for  she  responded  in  a  wonderful 


356 


AUDUBON 


jargon,  about  one  third  of  which  I  understood,  and  aban- 
doned the  rest  to  a  better  linguist,  should  one  ever  come 
to  the  island.  She  was  a  plain,  good  woman,  I  doubt  not, 
and  the  wife  of  an  industrious  fisherman.  We  walked 
through  the  woods,  and  followed  the  road  to  the  church. 
Who  would  have  thought  that  on  these  wild  islands,  among 
these  impoverished  people,  we  should  have  found  a  church; 
that  we  should  have  been  suddenly  confronted  with  a 
handsome,  youthful,  vigorous,  black-haired,  black-bearded 
fellow,  in  a  soutane  as  black  as  the  Raven's  wedding-dress, 
and  with  a  heart  as  light  as  a  bird  on  the  wing?  Yet  we 
met  with  both  church  and  priest,  and  our  ears  were  saluted 
by  the  sound  of  a  bell  which  measures  one  foot  by  nine  and 
a  half  inches  in  diameter,  and  weighs  thirty  pounds ;  and  this 
bell  may  be  heard  a  full  quarter  of  a  mile.  It  is  a  festival 
day,  La  Petite  Fete  de  Dieu.  The  chapel  was  illuminated 
at  six  o'clock,  and  the  inhabitants,  even  from  a  distance, 
passed  in ;  among  them  were  many  old  women,  who,  staff 
in  hand,  had  trudged  along  the  country  road.  Their  backs 
were  bent  by  age  and  toil,  their  eyes  dimmed  by  time; 
they  crossed  their  hands  upon  their  breasts,  and  knelt 
before  the  sacred  images  in  the  church  with  so  much 
simplicity  and  apparent  truth  of  heart  that  I  could  not 
help  exclaiming,  "  This  is  indeed  religion !  "  The  priest, 
P^re  Brunet,  is  originally  from  Quebec.  These  islands 
belong,  or  are  attached,  to  Lower  Canada ;  he,  however,  is 
under  the  orders  of  the  Bishop  of  Halifax.  He  is  a  shrewd- 
looking  fellow,  and,  if  I  mistake  not,  has  a  dash  of  the  devil 
in  him.  He  told  me  there  were  no  reptiles  on  the  island, 
but  this  was  an  error;  for,  while  rambling  about,  Tom 
Lincoln,  Ingalls,  and  John  saw  a  snake,  and  I  heard  Frogs 
a-piping.  He  also  told  me  that  Black  and  Red  Foxes, 
and  the  changeable  Hare,  with  Rats  lately  imported,  were 
the  only  quadrupeds  to  be  found,  except  cows,  horses,  and 
mules,  of  which  some  had  been  brought  over  many  years 
ago,  and  which  had  multiplied,  but  to  no  great  extent.    The 


THE  LABRADOR  JOURNAL 


357 


land,  he  assured  us,  was  poor  in  every  respect,  —  soil, 
woods,  game ;  that  the  Seal  fisheries  had  been  less  pro- 
ductive these  last  years  than  formerly.  On  these  islands, 
about  a  dozen  in  number,  live  one  hundred  and  sixty 
families,  all  of  whom  make  their  livelihood  by  the  Cod, 
Herring,  and  Mackerel  fisheries.  One  or  two  vessels  from 
Quebec  come  yearly  to  collect  this  produce  of  the  ocean. 
Not  a  bird  to  be  found  larger  than  a  Robin,  but  certainly 
thousands  of  those.  P^re  Brunet  said  he  lived  the  life  of  a 
recluse,  and  invited  us  to  accompany  him  to  the  house 
where  he  boarded,  and  take  a  glass  of  good  French  wine. 
During  our  ramble  on  the  island  we  found  the  temperature 
quite  agreeable ;  indeed,  in  some  situations  the  sun  was 
pleasant  and  warm.  Strawberry  blossoms  were  under  our 
feet  at  every  step,  and  here  and  there  the  grass  looked  well. 
I  was  surprised  to  find  the  woods  (by  woods  I  mean  land 
covered  with  any  sort  of  trees,  from  the  noblest  magnolia 
down  to  dwarf  cedars)  rich  in  Warblers,  Thrushes,  Finches, 
Buntings,  etc.  The  Fox-tailed  Sparrow  breeds  here,  the 
Siskin  also.  The  Hermit  and  Tawny  Thrushes  crossed 
our  path  every  few  yards,  the  Black-capped  Warbler  flashed 
over  the  pools,  the  Winter  Wren  abounded  everywhere. 
Among  the  water-birds  we  found  the  Great  Tern  (^Sterna 
hirundo)  very  abundant,  and  shot  four  of  them  on  the  sand- 
ridges.  The  Piping  Plover  breeds  here  —  shot  two  males 
and  one  female;  so  plaintive  is  the  note  of  this  interesting 
species  that  I  feel  great  aversion  to  killing  them.  These 
birds  certainly  are  the  swiftest  of  foot  of  any  water-birds 
which  I  know,  of  their  size.  We  found  many  land-snails, 
and  collected  some  fine  specimens  of  gypsum.  This  after- 
noon, being  informed  that  across  the  bay  where  we  are 
anchored  we  might,  perhaps,  purchase  some  Black  Fox 
skins,  we  went  there,  and  found  Messieurs  Muncey  keen 
fellows;  they  asked  £t)  for  Black  Fox  and  $1.50  for  Red. 
No  purchase  on  our  part.  Being  told  that  Geese,  Brents, 
Mergansers,  etc.,  breed  eighteen  miles  from  here,  at  the 


1;'  ' 

V:" 

f     '; 


358 


AUDUBON 


eastern    extremity  of  these  islands,  we  go  off  there  to- 
morrow in  boats.     Saw  Bank  Swallows  and  House  Swal- 
lows.     The  woods  altogether  small  evergreens,  extremely 
scrubby,  almost  impenetrable,  and  swampy  beneath.    At 
seven  this  evening  the  thermometer  is  at  52°.     This  morn- 
ing it  was  44°.      After  our  return  to  the  "  Ripley,"  our 
captain,   John,  Tom    Lincoln,  and    Coolidge  went  off  to 
the  cliffs  opposite  our  anchorage,  in  search  of  Black  Guille- 
mots' eggs.     This  was  found  to  be  quite  an  undertaking; 
these  birds,  instead  of  having  to  jump  or  hop  from  one 
place   to   another  on  the  rocks,  to   find   a  spot  suitable 
to  deposit  their  spotted  egg,  as  has  been  stated,  are  on 
the  contrary  excellenc  walkers,  at  least  upon  the  rocks,  and 
they  can   fly  from  the  water  to  the  very  entrance  of  the 
holes  in  the  fissures,  where  the  egg  is  laid.     Sometimes 
this  egg  is  deposited  not  more  than  eight  or  ten  feet  above 
high-water   mark,  at   other  times  the  fissure  in  the  rock 
which  has  been  chosen  stands  at  an  elevation  of  a  hun- 
dred feet  or  more.     The  egg  is  laid  on  the  bare  rock  with- 
out any  preparation,  but  when  the  formation  is  sandy,  a 
certain  scoop  is  indicated  on  the  surface.     In  one  instance, 
I  found  two  feathers  with  the  egg ;  this  egg  is  about  the 
size  of  a  hen's,  and  looks  extravagantly  large,  splashed 
with   black   or  deep   umber,   apparently  at  random,  the 
markings  larger  and  more  frequent  towards  the  great  end 
At  the  barking  of  a  dog  from  any  place  where  these  birds 
breed,  they  immediately  fly  towards  the  animal,  and  will 
pass  within  a  few  feet  of  the  observer,  as  if  in   defiance. 
At  other  times  they  leave  the  nest  and  fall  in  the  water, 
diving  to  an  extraordinary  distance  before  they  rise  again. 
John  shot  a  Gannet  on  the  wing ;  the  flesh  was  black  and 
unpleasant.     The  Piping  Plover,  when  missed  by  the  shot, 
rises  almost  perpendicularly,  and  passes  sometimes  out  of 
sight ;  this  is,  I  am  convinced  by  the  many  opportunities  I 
have  had  to  witness  the  occurrence,  a  habit  of  the  species. 
These  islands  are  well  watered  by  large  springs,  and  rivulets 


mm^  H-T  1 


T//E  LABRADOR  JOURNAL 


359 


intersect  the  country  in  many  directions.  We  saw  large 
flocks  of  Velvet  Ducks  feeding  close  to  the  shores ;  these 
did  not  appear  to  be  in  pairs.  The  Gannet  dives  quite 
under  the  water  after  its  prey,  and  when  empty  of  food 
rises  easily  off  the  water. 

June  llf,  off  the  Gannett  Rocks.  We  rose  at  two 
o'clock  with  a  view  to  proceed  to  the  eastern  extremity  of 
these  islands  in  search  of  certain  ponds,  wherein,  so  we 
were  told,  Wild  Geese  and  Ducks  of  different  kinds  are 
in  the  habit  of  resorting  annually  to  breed.  Our  mformer 
added  that  formerly  Brents  bred  there  in  abundance,  but 
that  since  the  erection  of  several  buildings  owned  by 
Nova  Scotians,  and  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  these 
ponds  or  lakes,  the  birds  have  become  gradually  very  shy, 
and  most  of  them  now  proceed  farther  north.  Some  of 
these  lakes  are  several  miles  in  circumference,  with  shal- 
low, sandy  bottoms;  most  of  them  are  fresh  water,  the 
shores  thickly  overgrown  with  rank  sedges  and  grasses, 
and  on  the  surface  are  many  water-lilies.  It  is  among 
these  that  the  wild  fowl,  when  hid  from  the  sight  of  man, 
deposit  their  eggs.  Our  way  to  these  ponds  would  have 
been  through  a  long  and  narrow  bay,  formed  by  what  sea- 
men call  sea-walls.  In  this  place  these  walls  are  en- 
tirely of  light-colored  sand,  and  form  connecting  points 
from  one  island  to  another,  thus  uniting  nearly  the  whole 
archipelago.  Our  journey  was  abandoned  just  as  we  were 
about  to  start,  in  consequence  of  the  wind  changing,  and 
being  fair  for  our  passage  to  Labrador,  the  ultimatum  of 
our  desires.  Our  anchor  was  raised,  and  we  bid  adieu  to 
the  Magdalenes.  Our  pilot,  a  Mr.  Godwin  from  Nova 
Scotia,  put  the  vessel  towards  what  he  called  "  The  Bird 
Rocks,"  where  he  told  us  that  Gannets  {Snla  bassana) 
bred  in  great  numbers.  For  several  days  past  we  have 
met  with  an  increased  number  of  Gannets,  and  as  we 
sailed  this  morning  we  observed  long  and  numerous  files, 
all  flying  in  the  direction  of  the  rocks.    Their  flight  now 


1/ 


I(« 


mmmm 


360 


AUDUBON 


\ 


was  low  above  the  water,  forming  easy  undulations,  flap- 
ping thirty  or  forty  times,  and  sailing  about  the  same 
distance;  these  were  all  returning  from  fishing,  and  were 
gorged  with  food  for  their  mates  or  young.  About  ten 
a  speck  rose  on  the  horizon,  which  I  was  told  was  the 
Rock ;  we  sailed  well,  the  breeze  increased  fast,  and  wc 
neared  this  object  apace.  At  eleven  I  could  distinguish 
its  top  plainly  from  the  deck,  and  thought  it  covered  with 
snow  to  the  depth  of  several  feet ;  this  appearance  existed 
on  every  portion  of  the  flat,  projecting  shelves.  Godwin 
said,  with  the  coolness  of  a  man  who  had  visited  this 
Rock  for  ten  successive  seasons,  that  what  we  saw  was 
not  snow  —  but  Gannets !  I  rubbed  my  eyes,  took  my 
spy-glass,  and  in  an  instant  the  strangest  picture  stood 
before  me.  They  were  birds  we  saw,  —  a  mass  of  birds  of 
such  a  size  as  I  never  before  cast  my  eyes  on.  The  whole 
of  my  party  stood  astounded  and  amazed,  and  all  came  to 
the  conclusion  that  such  a  sight  was  of  itself  sufficient  to 
invite  any  one  to  come  across  the  Gulf  to  view  it  at  this 
season.  The  nearer  we  approached,  the  greater  our  sur- 
prise at  the  enormous  number  of  these  birds,  all  calmly 
seated  on  their  eggs  or  newly  hatched  brood,  their  heads 
all  turned  to  windward,  and  towards  us.  The  air  above 
for  a  hundred  yards,  and  for  some  distance  around  the 
whole  rock,  was  filled  with  Gannets  on  the  wing,  which 
from  our  position  made  it  appear  as  if  a  heavy  fall  of 
snow  was  directly  above  us.  Our  pilot  told  us  the  wind 
was  too  high  to  permit  us  to  land,  and  I  felt  sadly  grieved 
at  this  unwelcome  news.  Anxious  as  we  all  were,  we  de- 
cided to  make  the  attempt;  our  whale-boat  was  overboard, 
the  pilot,  two  sailors,  Tom  Lincoln,  and  John  pushed  off 
with  guns  and  clubs.  Our  vessel  was  brought  to,  but  at 
that  instant  the  wind  increased,  and  heavy  rain  began  to 
fall.  Our  boat  neared  the  rock,  and  went  to  the  lee  of  it, 
and  was  absent  nearly  an  hour,  but  could  not  land.  The 
air  was  filled  with  Gannets,  but  no  difference  could  we 


THE  LABRADOR  JOURNAL 


361 


tions,  flap- 
thc  same 
;,  and  were 
About  ten 
,ld  was  the 
ast,  and  wc 
distinguish 
ovcrcd  with 
ince  existed 
;s.     Godwin 
visited  this 
we  saw  was 
res,  took  my 
picture  stood 
ss  of  birds  of 
1.    The  whole 
id  all  came  to 
f  sufficient  to 
view  it  at  this 
eater  our  sur- 
ds, all  calmly 
d,  their  heads 
"he  air  above 
;e  around  the 
wing,  which 
heavy  fall  of 
Id  us  the  wind 
.  sadly  grieved 
a  were,  we  de- 
[was  overboard, 
jhn  pushed  off 
fght  to,  but  at 
rain  began  to 
o  the  lee  of  it. 
.ot  land.     The 
fence  could  we 


perceive  on  the  surface  of  the  rock.     The  birds,  which  wc 
now  could  distinctly  see,  sat  almost  touching  each  other 
and  in  regular  lines,  seated  on  their  nests  quite  uncon- 
cerned.   The  discharge  of  the  guns  had  no  effect  on  those 
that  were  not  touched  by  the  shot,  for  the  noise  of  the 
Gulls,  Guillemots,  etc.,  deadened  the  sound  of  the  gun; 
but  where  the  shot  took  effect,  the  birds  scrambled  and 
flew  off  in  such  multitudes,  and  in  such  confusion,  that 
whilst  some  eight  or  ten  were  falling  into  the  water  either 
dead  or  wounded,  others  pushed  oft  their  eggs,  and  these 
fell  into  the  sea  by  hundreds  in  all  directions.     The  sea 
now  becoming  very  rough,  the  boat  was  obliged  to  return, 
with  some  birds   and  some  eggs;  but  the  crew  had  not 
climbed  the  rock,  a  great  disappointment  to  me.     God- 
win tells  me  the  top  of  the  rock  is  about  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  wide,  north  and  south,  and  a  little  narrower  east  and 
west;  its  elevation  above  the  sea  between  three  and  four 
hundred  feet.      The  sea  beats  round  it  with  great  vio- 
lence, except  after  long  calms,  and  it  is  extremely  diffi- 
cult to  land  upon  it,  and  much  more  so  to  climb  to  the 
top  of  it,  which  is  a  platform ;  it  is  only  on  the  southeast 
shore  that  a  landing  can  be  made,  and  the  moment  a  boat 
touches,  it  must  be  hauled  up  on  the  rocks.     The  whole 
surface  is  perfectly  covered  with  nests,  placed  about  two 
feet  apart,    in   such   regular  order  that    you   may   look 
through  the  lines  as  you  would  look  through  those  of  a 
planted  patch  of  sweet  potatoes  or  cabbages.     The  fisher- 
men who  kill  these  birds,   to  get  their  flesh  for  codfish 
bnit,  ascend  in  parties  of  six  or  eight,  armed  with  clubs; 
sometimes,  indeed,  the  party  comprises  the  crews  of  sev- 
eral vessels.     As  they  reach  the  top,  the  birds,  alarmed, 
rise  with  a  noise  like  thunder,  and  fly  off  in  such  hurried, 
fearful  confusion  as  to  throw  each  other  down,  often  fall- 
ing on  each  other  till  there  is  a  bank  of  them  many  feet 
l^igh.      The  men  strike  them  down  and  kill  them  until 
.fatigued  or  satisfied.     Five  hundred  and  forty  have  been 


362 


A  UDUBON 


k:k 


iMi 


\     \ 


thus  murdered  in  one  hour  by  six  men.     The  birds  are 
skinned  with  little  care,  and  the  flesh  cut  off  in  chunks; 
it  will  keep  fresh  about  a  fortnight.     The  nests  are  made 
by  scratching  down  a  few  inches,   and   the   edges  sur- 
rounded with  sea-weeds.     The  eggs  are  pure  white,  and 
as  large  as  those  of  a  Goose.     By  the  20th  of  May  the 
rock  is  already  covered  with  birds  and  eggs;  about  the 
20th  of  June  they  begin  to  hatch.     So  great  is  the  de- 
struction of  these  birds  annually  that  their  flesh  supplies 
the  bait  for  upwards  of  forty  fishing-boats,  which  lie  close 
to  the  Byron  Island  each  season.     When  the  young  are 
hatched  they  are  black,  and  for  a  fortnight  or  more  the 
skin  looks  like  that  of  the  dog-fish.     They  become  grad- 
ually downy  and  white,  and  when  two  months  old  look 
much  like  young  lambs.     Even  while  shooting  at  these 
birds,  hundreds  passed  us  carrying  great  masses  of  weeds 
to  their  nests.      The  birds  were  thick  above  our  heads, 
and  I  shot  at  one  to  judge  of  the  effect  of  the  report  of  the 
gun;  it  had  none.     A  great  number  of  Kittiwake  Gulls 
breed  on  this  rock,  with  thousands  of  Foolish  Guillemots. 
The  Kittiwake  makes  its  nest  of  eel-weeds,  several  inches 
in  thickness,  and  in  places  too  small  for  a  Gannet  or  a 
Guillemot  to  place  itself;  in  some  instances  these  nests 
projected   some   inches  over  the  edge  of  the  rock.    We 
could  not  see  any  of  their  eggs.     The  breeze  was  now  so 
stiff  that  the  waves  ran  high;  so  m  xh  so  that  the  boat 
was  perched  on  the  comb  of   the  wai/e  one  minute,  the 
next  in  the  trough.     John  steered,  v^d  he  told  me  after- 
wards  he  was   nearly  exhausted.      The    boat  was  very 
cleverly  hauled  on  deck  by  a  single  effort.     The  stench 
from  the  rock  is  insufferable,  as  it  is  covered  with  the 
remains  of  putrid  fish,  rotten  eggs,  and  dead  birds,  old  and 
young.     No  man  who  has  not  seen  what  we  have  this  day 
can  form  the  least  idea  of  the  impression  the  sight  made 
on  our  minds.     By  dark  it  blew  a  gale  and  we  are  noff 
most  of  us  rather  shaky;  rain  is  falling  in  torrents,  and 


THE  LABRADOR  JOURNAL 


363 


the  sailors  are  reefing.  I  forgot  to  say  that  when  a  man 
walks  towards  the  Gannets,  they  will  now  and  then  stand 
still,  merely  opening  and  shutting  their  bills;  the  Gulls 
remained  on  their  nests  with  more  confidence  than  the 
Guillemots,  all  of  which  flew  as  we  approached.  The 
feathering  of  the  Gannet  is  curious,  differing  from  that  of 
most  other  birds,  inasmuch  as  each  feather  is  concave,  and 
divided  in  its  contour  from  the  next.  Under  the  roof  of 
the  mouth  and  attached  to  the  upper  mandible,  are  two 
fleshy  appendages  like  two  small  wattles. 

June  15.  All  our  party  except  Coolidge  were  deadly 
sick.  The  thermometer  was  down  to  43°,  and  every 
sailor  complained  of  the  cold.  It  has  rained  almost  all 
day.  I  felt  so  very  sick  this  morning  that  I  removed 
from  my  berth  to  a  hammock,  where  I  soon  felt  rather 
more  easy.  We  lay  to  all  this  time,  and  at  daylight  were 
in  sight  of  the  Island  of  Anticosti,  distant  about  twenty 
miles;  but  the  fog  soon  after  became  so  thick  that  nothing 
could  be  observed.  At  about  two  we  saw  the  sun,  the 
wind  hauled  dead  ahead,  and  we  ran  under  one  sail  only. 

June  16,  Sunday.  The  weather  clear,  beautiful,  and 
much  warmer;  but  it  was  calm,  so  we  fished  for  cod,  of 
which  we  caught  a  good  many ;  most  of  them  contained 
crabs  of  a  curious  sort,  and  some  were  filled  with  shrimps. 
One  cod  measured  three  feet  six  and  a  half  inches,  and 
weighed  twenty-one  pounds.  Found  two  curious  insects 
fastened  to  the  skin  of  a  cod,  which  we  saved.  At  about 
si.x  o'clock  the  wind  sprang  up  fair,  and  we  made  all  sail 
for  Labrador. 

7une  17.  I  was  on  deck  at  three  this  morning;  the 
sun,  although  not  above  the  horizon,  indicated  to  the  mar- 
iner at  the  helm  one  of  those  doubtful  days  the  result 
of  which  seldom  can  be  truly  ascertained  until  sunset. 
The  sea  was  literally  covered  with  Foolish  Guillemots, 
playing  in  the  very  spray  of  the  bow  of  our  vessel,  plung- 
ing under  it,  as  if  in  fun,  and  rising  like  spirits  close 


364 


AUDUBON 


under  our  rudder.      The  breeze  was  favorable,  although 
we  were  hauled  to  the  wind  within  a  point  or  so.     The 
helmsman  said  he  saw  land  from  aloft,  but  the  captain 
pronounced  his  assertion  must  be  a  mistake,  by  true  cal- 
culation.    We  breakfasted  on  the  best  of  fresh  codfish, 
and  I  never  relished  a  breakfast  more.     I  looked  on  our 
landing  on  the  coast  of   Labrador  as  a  matter  of  great 
importance.      My   thoughts   were    filled,    not   with  airy 
castles,  but  with  expectations  of  the  new  knowledge  of 
birds  and  quadrupeds   which   I  hoped  to  acquire.     The 
"  Ripley "  ploughed  the  deep,  and  proceeded  swiftly  on 
her  way;  she  always  sails  well,  but  I  thought  that  now  as 
the  land  was  expected  to  appear  every  moment,  she  fairly 
skipped  over  the  waters.     At  five  o'clock  the  cry  of  land 
rang  in  our  ears,  and  my  heart  bounded  with  joy;  so  much 
for  anticipation.     We  sailed  on,  and  in  less  than  an  hour 
the  land  was  in  full  sight  from  the  deck.    We  approached, 
and  saw,  as  we  supposed,  many  sails,  and  felt  delighted  at 
having  hit  the  point  in  view  so  very  closely;  but,  after 
all,  the  sails  proved  to  be  large  snow-banks.     We  pro- 
ceeded, however,  the  wind  being  so  very  favorable  that  we 
could  either  luff  or  bear  away.     The  air  was  now  filled 
with  Velvet  Ducks ;    millions  of  these  birds  were  flying 
from  the  northwest  towards  the  southeast.     The  Fool- 
ish  Guillemots  and   the  Alca  torda^  were  in   immense 
numbers,  flying  in  long  files  a  few  yards  above  the  water, 
with  rather  undulating  motions,  and  passing  within  good 
gunshot  of  the  vessel,  and  now  and  then  rounding  to  us, 
as  if  about  to  alight  on  the  very  deck.     We  now  saw  a 
schooner  at  anchor,  and  the  country  looked  well  at  this 
distance,  and  as  we  neared   the  shore  the  thermometer, 
which  had  been  standing  at  44°,  now  rose  up  to  nearly 
60°  ;  yet  the  appearance  of  the  great  snow-drifts  was  for- 
bidding.     The  shores  appeared  to  be  margined  with  a 
broad  and  handsome  sand-beach;  our  imaginations  now 

*  Razor-billed  Auk. 


-■/  '■] 


THE  LABRADOR  JOURNAL 


36s 


:,  although 
ir  so.    The 
the  captain 
by  true  cal- 
esh  codfish, 
oked  on  our 
ter  of  great 
t   with  airy 
nowledge  of 
;quire.     The 
d  swiftly  on 
t  that  now  as 
nt,  she  fairly 
le  cry  of  land 
joy ;  so  much 
than  an  hour 
'e  approached, 
[t  delighted  at 
ely ;  but,  after 
ks.     We  pro- 
orable  that  we 
vas  now  filled 
,s  were  flying 
The  Fool- 
|e  in  immense 
love  the  water, 
ig  within  good 
•ounding  to  us, 
'e  now  saw  a 
,d  well  at  this 
thermometer, 
[e  up  to  nearly 
, drifts  was  for- 
[argined  with  a 
Lginations  now 


saw  Bears,  Wolves,  and  Devils  of  all  sorts  scampering  away 
on  the  rugged  shore.     When  we  reached  the  schooner  we 
saw  beyond  some  thirty  fishing-boats,  fishing  for  cod,  and 
to  our  great  pleasure  found  Captain  Billings  of  Eastport 
standing  in  the  bow  of  his  vessel ;  he  bid  us  welcome,  and 
we  saw  the  codfish  thrown  on  his  deck  by  thousands.    We 
were  now  opposite  to  the  mouth  of  the  Natasquan  River, 
where  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  have  a  fishing  estab- 
lishment, but  where  no  American  vessels  are  allowed  to 
come  in.     The  shore  was  lined  with  bark-covered  huts, 
and  some  vessels  were  within  the  bight,  or  long  point  of 
land  which  pushes  out  from  the  extreme  eastern  side  of 
the  entrance  of  the  river.     We  went  on  to  an  American 
Harbor,  four  or  five  miles  distant  to  the  westward,  and 
after  a  while  came  to  anchor  in  a  small  bay,  perfectly  se- 
cure from  any  winds.     And  now  we  are  positively  on  the 
Labrador  coast,  latitude  50°  and  a  little  more, — farther 
north  than  I  ever  was  before.     But  what  a  country !    When 
we  landed  and  passed  the  beach,  we  sank  nearly  up  to  our 
knees  in  mosses  of  various  sorts,  producing  as  we  moved 
through  them  a  curious  sensation.     These  mosses,  which 
at  a  distance  look  like  hard  rocks,  are,  under  foot,  like  a 
velvet  cushion.      We  scrambled  about,  and  with  anxiety 
stretched  our  necks  and  looked  over  the  country  far  and 
near,  but  not  a  square  foot  of  earth  could  we  see.      A 
poor,  rugged,  miserable  country;  the  trees  like  so  many 
mops  of  wiry  composition,   and   where  the   soil   is  not 
rocky  it  is  boggy  up  to  a  man's  waist.       We  searched 
and  searched;  but,  after  all,  only  shot  an  adult  Pigeon- 
Hawk,  a  summer-plumage  Tell-tale  Godwit,  and  an  Alca 
torda.     We  visited  all  the  islands  about  the  harbor;  they 
were  all  rocky,  nothing  but  rocks.     The  Lams  marinus 
was  sailing  magnificently  all  about  us.     The  Great  Tern 
was  plunging  after  shrimps  in  every  pool,  and  we  found 
four  eggs  of  the  Totanus  macitlaritis  ;  ^  the  nest  was  situ- 
^  Spotted  Sandpiper,  now  Actitis  maculaiia.  —  E.  C. 


^"^^P^^WIWPP 


m\: 


S 
U 


366 


AUDUBON 


1 

■  ■! 

i 
i 

^ .  ^  ^  life 

ated  under  a  rock  in  the  grass,  and  made  of  a  quantity 
of  dried  grass,  forming  a  very  decided  nest,  at  least  much 
more  so  than  in  our  Middle  States,  where  the  species 
breed  so  very  abundantly.  Wild  Geese  were  seen  by 
our  party,  and  these  birds  also  breed  here;  we  saw 
Loons  and  Eider  Ducks,  Anas  obscura  ^  and  the  Fuligula 
[CEdetnia]  americana.'^  We  came  to  our  anchorage  at 
twenty  minutes  past  twelve.  Tom  Lincoln  and  John 
heard  a  Ptarmigan.  Toads  were  abundant.  We  saw 
some  rare  plants,  which  we  preserved,  and  butterflies  and 
small  bees  were  among  the  flowers  which  we  gathered. 
We  also  saw  Red-breasted  Mergansers.  The  male  and 
female  Eider  Ducks  separate  as  soon  as  the  latter  begin 
to  lay;  after  this  they  are  seen  flying  in  large  flocks,  each 
sex  separately.  We  found  a  dead  Basking  Shark,  six 
and  a  half  feet  long;  this  fish  had  been  wounded  by 
a  harpoon  and  ran  ashore,  or  was  washed  there  by  the 
waves.  At  Eastport  fish  of  this  kind  have  been  killed 
thirty  feet  long. 

June  18.  I  remained  on  board  all  day,  drawing;  our 
boats  went  off  to  some  islands  eight  or  ten  miles  distant, 
after  birds  and  eggs,  but  the  day,  although  very  beauti- 
ful, did  not  prove  valuable  to  us,  as  some  eggers  from 
Halifax  had  robbed  the  places  ere  the  boats  arrived. 
We,  however,  procured  about  a  dozen  of  Alca  tarda,  Uria 
troile,  a  female  Eider  Duck,  a  male  Surf  Duck,  and  a  Sand- 
piper, or  Tringa,  —  which,  I  cannot  ascertain,  although 
the  least  ^  I  ever  saw,  not  the  Pusilla  of  Bonaparte's 
Synopsis.  Many  nests  of  the  Eider  Duck  were  seen, 
some  at  the  edge  of  the  woods,  placed  under  the  rampant 
boughs  of  the  fir-trees,  which  in  this  latitude  grow  only  a 
few  inches  above  the  surface  of  the  ground,  and  to  find 
the  nest,  these  boughs  had  to  be  raised.  The  nests  were 
scooped  a  few  inches  deep  in  the  mossy,  rotten  substance 

*  Dusky  Duck.  '  Scoter  Duck. 

«  The  Least  or  Wilson's  Sandpiper,  Tringa  {Actodrotnat)  minutUla.—'^-^ 


"^r!  SOTf^i 


(:• 


Wn 


I  i: 


THE  LABRADOR  JOURNAL 


36; 


that  forms  here  what  must  be  called  earth ;  the  eggs  are 
deposited  on  a  bed  of  down  and  covered  with  the  same 
material ;  and  so  warm  are  these  nests  that,  although  not 
a  parent  bird  was  seen  near  them,  the  eggs  were  quite 
warm  to  the  touch,  and  the  chicks  in  some  actually  hatch- 
ing in  the  absence  of  the  mother.  Some  of  the  nests  had 
the  eggs  uncovered;  six  eggs  was  the  greatest  number 
found  in  a  nest.  The  nests  found  on  grassy  islands  are 
fashioned  in  the  same  manner,  and  generally  placed  at  the 
foot  of  a  large  tussock  of  grass.  Two  female  Ducks  had 
about  twelve  young  on  the  water,  and  these  they  protected 
by  flapping  about  the  water  in  such  a  way  as  to  raise  a 
spray,  whilst  the  little  ones  dove  off  in  various  directions. 
Flocks  of  thirty  to  forty  males  were  on  the  wing  without 
a  single  female  among  them.  The  young  birds  procured 
were  about  one  week  old,  of  a  dark  mouse-color,  thickly 
covered  with  a  soft  and  warm  down,  and  their  feet  ap- 
peared to  be  more  perfect,  for  their  age,  than  any  other 
portion,  because  more  necessary  to  secure  their  safety, 
and  to  enable  them  to  procure  food.  John  found  many 
nests  of  the  Larus  marinus,  of  which  he  brought  both 
eggs  and  young.  The  nest  of  this  fine  bird  is  made  of 
mosses  and  grasses,  raised  on  the  solid  rock,  and  hand- 
somely formed  within;  a  few  feathers  are  in  this  lining. 
Three  eggs,  large,  hard-shelled,  with  ground  color  of 
dirty  yellowish,  splashed  and  spotted  with  dark  umber  and 
black.  The  young,  although  small,  were  away  from  the 
nest  a  few  feet,  placing  themselves  to  the  lee  of  the  near- 
est sheltering  rock.  They  did  not  attempt  to  escape,  but 
when  taken  uttered  a  cry  not  unlike  that  of  a  young 
chicken  under  the  same  circumstances.  The  parents  were 
so  shy  and  so  wary  that  none  could  be  shot.  At  the 
approach  of  the  boats  to  the  rocks  where  they  breed,  a 
few  standing  as  sentinels  gave  the  alarm,  and  the  whole 
rose  immediately  in  the  air  to  a  great  elevation.  On 
another  rock,  not  far  distant,  a  number  of  Gulls  of  the 


^TW"MiPHP 


368 


AUDUBON 


-  v\---.^ 


same  size,  white,  and  witii  the  same  hoarse  note,  were 
to  be  seen,  but  they  had  no  nests;  these,  I  am  inclined 
to  think  (at  present)  the  bird  called  Larv  argentaim 
(Herring  Gull),  which  is  simply  the  immature  bird  of 
Lanis  mannus.^  I  am  the  more  led  to  believe  this  be- 
cause, knowing  the  tyrannical  disposition  of  the  L.  mar- 
in  us,  I  am  sure  they  would  not  sufFer  a  species  almost  as 
powerful  as  themselves  in  their  immediate  neighborhood. 
They  fly  altogether,  but  the  white  ones  do  not  alight  on 
the  rocks  where  the  Marintis  has  its  nests.  John  watched 
their  motion  and  their  cry  very  closely,  and  gave  me  this 
information.  Two  eggs  of  a  Tern,^  resembling  the  Cay- 
enne Tern,  were  found  in  a  nest  on  the  rocks,  made  of 
moss  also,  but  the  birds,  although  the  eggs  were  nearly 
ready  to  hatch,  kept  out  of  gunshot.  These  eggs  meas- 
ured one  and  a  half  inches  in  length,  very  oval,  whitish, 
spotted  and  dotted  irregularly  with  brown  and  black  all 
over.  The  cry  of  those  Terns  which  /saw  this  afternoon 
resembles  that  of  the  Cayenne  Tern  that  I  met  with  in 
the  Floridas,  and  I  could  see  a  large  orange  bill,  but 
could  not  discern  the  black  feet.  Many  nests  of  the 
Great  Tern  {Sterna  hirundo)  were  found  —  two  eggs  in 
each,  laid  on  the  short  grass  scratched  out,  but  no  nest. 
One  Tringa  piisilla  [fninutilla],  the  smallest  I  ever  saw, 
was  procured;  these  small  gentry  are  puzzles  indeed;  I 
do  not  mean  to  say  in  nature,  but  in  Charles's^  Synopsis, 
We  went  ashore  this  afternoon  and  made  a  Bear  trap  with 
a  gun,  baited  with  heads  and  entrails  of  codfish,  Bruin 
having  been  seen  within  a  few  hundred  yards  of  where  the 
lure  now  lies  in  wait.  It  is  truly  interesting  to  see  the 
activity  of  the  cod-fishermen  about  us,  but  I  will  write  of 
this  when  I  know  more  of  their  filthy  business. 

^  A  mistake,  which  Audubon  later  corrected.  The  Herring  Gull  is  of 
course  quite  distinct  from  the  Black-backed.  The  former  is  of  the  variety 
called  by  me  Larus  argentatus  smithsonianus,  as  it  differs  in  some  respects 
from  the  common  Herring  Gull  of  Europe.  —  E.  C. 

2  Perhaps  Foreter's  Tern,  Sterna  for sUri.  —  E.  C. 

'  Charles  Lucien  Bonaparte. 


THE  LABRADOR  JOURNAL 


369 


;  note,  were 
am  inclined 
'-  argaitatus 
ture  bird  of 
icvc  this  be- 
;  the  L.  mar- 
ies  almost  as 
icighborhood. 
not  alight  on 
John  watched 

gave  me  this 
iling  the  Cay- 
ocks,  made  of 
;s  were  nearly 
;se  eggs  meas- 
r  oval,  whitish, 

and  black  all 
/  this  afternoon 
;  I  mot  with  in 
range  bill,  but 
y  nests  of  the 
—  two  eggs  in 
it,  but  no  nest, 
[est  I  ever  saw, 
-izzles  indeed;  I 


yutie  19.     Drawing  as  much  as  the  disagreeable  motion 
of  the  vessel  would   allow  me  to   do;   and   although  at 
anchor  and  in  a  good  harbor,  I  could  scarcely  steady  my 
pencil,  the  wind  being  high  from  southwest.     At  three 
A.  M.  I  had  all  the  young  men  up,  and  they  left  by  four  for 
some  islands  where  the  Lams  marinus  breeds.     The  cap- 
tain went  up  the  little  Natasquan  River.       When  John 
returned  he  brought  eight  Alca  torda  and  four  of  their 
eggs    identified;    these   eggs   measure    three    inches    in 
length,  one   and   seven-eighths    in   breadth,   dirty-white 
ground,   broadly  splashed    with   deep  brown   and   black, 
more  so  towards  the  greater  end.     This  Alca  feeds  on 
fish  of  a  small  size,  flies  swiftly  with  a  quick  beat  of  the 
wings,  rounding  to  and  fro  at  the  distance  of  fifty  or  more 
yards,  exhibiting,  as  it  turns,  the  pure  white  of  its  lower 
parts,  or  the  jet  black  of  its  upper.     These  birds  sit  on 
the  nest  in  an  almost  upright  position ;  they  are  shy  and 
wary,  diving  into  the  water,  or  taking  flight  at  the  least 
appearance  of  danger;  if  wounded  slightly  they  dive,  and 
we  generally  lost  them,  but  if  unable  to  do  this,  they 
throw  themselves  on  their  back  and  defend  themselves 
fiercely,  biting  severely  whoever  attempts  to  seize  them. 
They  run  over  and  about  the  rocks  with  ease,  and  not 
awkwardly,  as  some  have  stated.     The  flesh  of  this  bird 
when  stewed  in  a  particular  manner  is  good  eating,  much 
better  than  would  be  expected  from  birds  of  its  class  and 
species.    The  Lams  argentatiis  breeds  on  the  same  islands, 
and  we  found  many  eggs;  the  nests  were  all  on  the  rocks, 
made  of  moss  and  grasses,  and  rather  neat  inwardly.    The 
Arctic  Tern  was  found  breeding  abundantly;   we  took 
some  of  their  eggs ;  there  were  two  in  each  nest,  one  and 
a  quarter  inches  long,  five-eighths  broad,  rather  sharp  at 
the  little  end.     The  ground  is  light  olive,  splashed  with 
dark  umber  irregularly,  and  more  largely  at  the  greater 
end;  these  were  deposited  two  or  three  on   the  rocks, 
wherever  a  little  grass  grew,  no  nest  of  any  kind  appar- 

TOL.   I.  — 24 


•^i«aa^ 


370 


AUDUBON 


ent.     In  habits  this  bird  resembles  the  S.  hinindo,  and 
has  nearly  the  same  harsh  note ;  it  feeds  principally  on 
shrimps,  which  abound  in  these  waters.     Five  young  L 
marinusviQVQ  brought  alive,  small  and  beautifully  spotted 
yet  over  the  head  and  back,  somewhat  like  a  Leopard; 
they  walked  well  about  the  deck,  and  managed  to  pick  up 
the  food  given  them;  their  cry  was  a  "hac,   hac,  hac, 
wheet,  wheet,  wheet. "     Frequently,  when  one  was  about 
to  swallow  a  piece  of  flesh,  a  brother  or  sister  would  jump 
at  it,  tug,  and  finally  deprive  its  relative  of  the  morsel  in 
an  instant.     John  assured  me  that  the  old  birds  were  too 
shy  to  be  approached  at  all.     John  shot  a  fine  male  of  the 
Scoter   Duck,  which  is   scarce  here.       Saw  some  Wild 
Geese  (Anser  canadensis),  which  breed  here,  though  they 
have  not  yet  formed  their  nests.     The  Red-breasted  Mer- 
ganser {Mergns  serrator)  breeds  also  here,  but  is  extremely 
shy  and  wary,  flying  off  as  far  as  they  can  see  us,  which 
to  me  in  this  wonderfully  wild  country  is  surprising;  in- 
deed, thus  far  all  the  sea-fowl  are  much  wilder  than  those 
of  the  Floridas.     Twenty  nests  of  a  species  of  Cormo- 
rant,^ not  yet  ascertained,  were  found  on  a  small  detached, 
rocky  island ;  these  were  built  of  sticks,  sea-weeds,  and 
grasses,  on  the  naked  rock,  and  about  two  feet  high,  as 
filthy  as  those  of  their  relations  the  Floridians.^    Three 
eggs  were  found  in  one  nest,  which  is  the  complement, 
but  not  a  bird  could  be  shot  —  too  shy  and  vigilant.     This 
afternoon  the  captain  and  I  walked  to  the  Little  Natas- 
quan  River,  and  proceeded  up  it  about  four  miles  to  the 
falls  or  rapids — a  small  river,  dark,  irony  waters,  sandy 
shores,  and  impenetrable  woods  along  these,  except  here 
and  there  is  a  small  space  overgrown  with  short  wiry 
grass  unfit  for  cattle;  a  thing  of  little  consequence,  as  no 

1  No  doubt  the  common  species,  Phalacrocorax  carbo,  as  Audubon  aftt^ 
ward  identified  it.     S'je  beyond,  date  of  June  30.  —  E.  C. 

'  That  is,  the  8p«tcies  which  Audubon  named  the  Florida  Corraorac' 
Phalacrocorax  floridanus,  now  known  to  be  a  sma*i  southern  forraoil''| 
Double-crested  Coitriorant,  P.  dilophus,  —  E.  C. 


THE  LABRADOR  JOURNAL 


371 


cattle  are  to  be  found  here.  Returning  this  evening  the 
tide  had  so  fallen  that  we  waded  a  mile  and  a  half  to  an 
island  close  to  our  anchorage;  the  sailors  were  obliged  to 
haul  the  boat  that  distance  in  a  few  inches  of  water.  We 
have  removed  the  "Ripley"  closer  in  shore,  where  I  hope 
she  will  be  steady  enough  for  my  work  to-morrow. 

June  20.    Thermometer  60°  at  noon.     Calm  and  beauti- 
ful.    Drew  all  day,  and  finished  two  Uria  troile.     I  rose 
at  two  this  morning,  for  we  have  scarcely  any  darkness 
now;  about  four  a  man  came  from  Captain  Billings  to 
accompany  some  of  our  party  to  Partridge  Bay  on  a  shoot- 
ing excursion.     John  and  his  party  went  off  by  land,  or 
rather  by  rock  and  moss,  to  some  ponds  three  or  four 
miles  from  the  sea;  they  returned  at  four  this  afternoon, 
and  brought  only  one  Scoter  Duck,  male;  saw  four,  but 
could  not  discover  the  nests,  although  they  breed  here; 
saw  also  about  twenty  Wild  Geese,  one  pair  Red-necked 
Divers,    one  Anas  fusca,  one   Three-toed   Woodpecker, 
and  Tell-tale   Godwits.      The   ponds,    although   several 
miles  long,  and  of  good  proportion  and  depth,  had  no  fish 
in  them  that  could  be  discovered,  and  on  the  beach  no 
shells  nor  grasses ;  the  margins  are  reddish  sand.     A  few 
toads  were  seen,  which  John  described  as  "pale-looking 
and  poor. "    The  country  a  barren  rock  as  far  as  the  eye 
extended ;  mosses  more  than  a  foot  deep  on  the  average, 
of  different  varieties  but  principally  the  white  kind,  hard 
and  crisp.     Saw  not  a  quadruped.     Our  Bear  trap  was  dis- 
charged, but  we  could  not  find  the  animal  for  want  of  a 
dog.     An  Eider  Duck's  nest  was  found  fully  one  hundred 
yards  from  the  water,  unsheltered  on  the  rocks,  with  five 
eggs  and  clean  down.      In  no  instance,  though  I  have 
tried  with  all  my  powers,  have  I  approached  nearer  than 
eight  or  ten  yards  of  the  sitting  birds ;  they  fly  at  the  least 
appearance  of  danger.     We  concluded  that  the  absence  of 
fish  in  these  ponds  was  on  account  of  their  freezing  sol- 
idly every  winter,  when  fish  must  die.     Captain  Billings 


mmmm 


372 


AUDUBON 


paid  me  a  visit,  and  very  generously  offered  to  change  our 
whale-boat  for  a  large  one,  and  his  pilot  boat  for  ours; 
the  industry  of  this  man  is  extraordinary.  The  specimen 
of  Uria  troile  drawn  with  a  white  line  round  the  eye*  was 
a  female;  the  one  without  this  line  was  a  young  bird.  I 
have  drawn  seventeen  and  a  half  hours  this  day,  and  my 
poor  head  aches  badly  enough.  One  of  Captain  Billings' 
mates  told  me  of  the  Procellarias  breeding  in  great  num- 
bers in  and  about  Mount  Desert  Island  rocks,  in  the 
months  of  June  and  July;  there  they  deposit  their  one 
•vhite  egg  in  the  deepest  fissures  of  the  rocks,  and  sit 
upon  it  only  during  the  night.  When  approached  whilst 
on  the  egg,  they  open  their  wings  and  bill,  and  offer  to 
defend  themselves  from  the  approach  of  intruders.  The 
Eider  Ducks  are  seen  leaving  the  islands  on  which  they 
breed,  at  daybreak  every  fair  morning,  in  congregated 
flocks  of  males  or  females  separately,  and  proceed  to  cer- 
tain fishing  grounds  where  the  water  is  only  a  few  fath- 
oms deep,  and  remain  till  towards  evening,  when  the 
females  sit  on  their  eggs  for  the  night,  and  the  males 
group  on  the  rocks  by  themselves.  This  valuable  bird  is 
extremely  abundant  here;  we  find  their  nests  without  any 
effort  every  time  we  go  out.  So  sonorous  is  the  song  of 
the  Fox-colored  Sparrow  that  I  can  hear  it  for  hours, 
most  distinctly,  from  the  cabin  where  I  am  drawing,  and 
yet  it  is  distant  more  than  a  quarter  of  a  mile.  This  bird 
is  in  this  country  what  the  Towhee  Bunting  is  in  the 
Middle  States. 

June  22.  I  drew  all  day  at  an  adult  Gannet  which  we 
brought  from  the  great  rock  of  which  I  have  spoken;  it 
was  still  in  good  order.  Many  eggs  of  the  Arctic  Tern 
were  collected  to-day,  two  or  three  in  a  nest ;  these  birds 
are  as  shy  here  as  all  others,  and  the  moment  John  and 

1  This  is  the  so-called  Bridled  Guillemot,  Uria  ringvia.  The  white  mark 
is  not  characteristic  of  sex,  age,  or  season.  The  bird  is  not  specifically 
distinct  from  Uria  troile.  —  E.  C.  ,   -.  .. 


THE  LABRADOR  JOURNAL 


373 


change  our 
at  for  ours; 
le  specin\en 
he  eye  ^  was 
ang  bird.  1 
day,  and  my 
ain  Billings' 
n  great  num- 
ocks,  in  the 
isit  their  one 
3cks,  and  sit 
cached  whilst 
,  and  offer  to 
truders.  The 
)n  which  they 
1  congregated 
proceed  to  eer- 
ily a  few  fath- 
ing,  when  the 
.nd  the  males 
valuable  bird  is 
its  without  any 
is  the  song  of 
it  for  hours, 
.  drawing,  and 
ile.  This  bird 
Lting  is  in  the 

lannet  which  we 

lave  spoken;  it 

[he  Arctic  Tern 

.St;  these  birds 

fment  John  and 

*,ia     The  white  mark 
|rd  is  not  specifically 


Coolidge  landed,  or  indeed  approached  the  islands  on 
which  they  breed,  they  all  rose  in  the  air,  passed  high 
overhead,  screaming  and  scolding  all  the  time  the  young 
men  were  on  the  land.  When  one  is  shot  the  rest 
plunge  towards  it,  and  can  then  be  easily  shot.  Some- 
times when  wounded  in  the  body,  they  sail  off  to  extraor- 
dinary distances,  and  are  lost.  The  same  is  the  case 
with  the  Lams  marinus.  When  our  captain  returned  he 
brought  about  a  dozen  female  Eider  Ducks,  a  great  num- 
ber of  their  eggs,  and  a  bag  of  down;  also  a  finf  Wild 
Goose,  but  nothing  new  for  the  pencil.  In  one  nest  of 
the  Eider  ten  eggs  were  found ;  this  is  the  most  we  have 
seen  as  yet  in  any  one  nest.  The  female  draws  the  down 
from  her  abdomen  as  far  towards  her  breast  as  her  bill 
will  allow  her  to  do,  but  the  feathers  are  not  pulled,  and 
on  examination  of  several  specimens  I  found  these  well 
and  regularly  planted,  and  cleaned  from  their  original 
down,  as  a  forest  of  trees  is  cleared  of  its  undergrowth. 
In  this  state  the  female  is  still  well  clothed,  and  little  or 
no  difference  can  be  seen  in  the  plumage  unless  exam- 
ined. These  birds  have  now  nearly  all  hatched  in  this 
latitude,  but  we  are  told  that  we  shall  over-reach  them  in 
that,  and  meet  with  nests  and  eggs  as  we  go  northeast 
until  August.  So  abundant  were  the  nests  of  these  birds 
on  the  islands  of  Partridge  Bay,  about  forty  miles  west  of 
this  place,  that  a  boat  load  of  their  eggs  might  have  been 
collected  if  they  had  been  fresh ;  they  are  then  excellent 
eating.  Our  captain  called  on  a  half-breed  Indian  in  the 
employ  of  the  Northeast  Fur  and  Fish  Co.,  living  with 
his  squaw  and  two  daughters.  A  potato  patch  of  about 
an  acre  was  planted  in  sand,  for  not  a  foot  of  soil  is  there 
to  be  found  hereabouts.  The  man  told  him  his  potatoes 
grew  well  and  were  good,  ripening  in  a  few  weeks,  which 
he  called  the  summer.  The  mosquitoes  and  black  gnats 
are  bad  enough  on  shore.  I  heard  a  Wood  Pewee.  The 
Wild  Goose  is  an  excellent  diver,  and  when  with   its 


ipip 


374 


A  UDUBON 


young  uses  many  beautiful  stratagems  to  save  its  brood, 
and  elude  the  hunter.     They  will  dive  and  lead  their 
young  under  the  surface  of   the  water,  and  always  in  a 
contrary  direction  to  the  one  expected;  thus  if  you  row 
a  boat  after  one  it  will  dive  under  it,  and  now  and  then 
remain  under  it  several  minutes,  when  the  hunter  with 
outstretched  neck,  is  looking,  all  in  vain,  in  the  distance 
for  the  stupid  Goose  !     Every  time  I  read  or  hear  of  a  stu- 
pid animal  in  a  wild  state,  I  cannot  help  wishing  that  the 
stupid  animal  who  speaks  thus,  was  half  as  wise  as  the 
brute  he  despises,  so  that  he  might  be  able  to  thank  his 
Maker  for  what   knowledge   he   may  possess.     I  found 
many  small  flowers  open  this  day,  where  none  appeared 
last  evening.     All  vegetable  life  here  is  of  the  pygmy 
order,  and  so  ephemeral  that  it  shoots  out  of  the  tangled 
mass  of  ages,  blooms,  fructifies,  and  dies,  in  a  few  weeks. 
We  ascertained  to-day  that  a  party  of  four  men  from  Hal- 
ifax took  last  spring  nearly  forty  thousand  eggs,  which 
they  sold  at  Halifax  and  other  towns  at  twenty-five  cents 
per  dozen,  making  over  jjJSoo;  this  was  done  in  about  two 
months.     Last  year  upwards  of  twenty  sail  were  engaged 
in  "egging;"  so  some  idea  may  be  formed  of  the  birds 
that  are  destroyed  in  this  rascally  way.     The  eggers  de- 
stroy all  the  eggs  that  are  sat  upon,  to  force  the  birds  to 
lay  again,  and  by  robbing  them  regularly,  they  lay  till 
nature  is  exhausted,  and  few  young  are  raised.     In  less 
than  half  a  century  these  wonderful  nurseries  will  be  en- 
tirely destroyed,  unless  some  kind  government  will  in- 
terfere to  stop  the  shameful  destruction. 

June  22.  It  was  very  rainy,  and  thermometer  54°. 
After  breakfast  dressed  in  my  oilskins  and  went  with  the 
captain  in  the  whale-boat  to  the  settlement  at  the  entrance 
of  the  true  Natasquan,  five  miles  east.  On  our  way  we 
saw  numerous  Seals;  these  rise  to  the  surface  of  the 
water,  erect  the  head  to  the  full  length  of  the  neck,  snuff 
the  air,  and  you  also,  and  sink  back  to  avoid  any  further 


THE  LABRADOR  JOURNAL 


375 


acquaintance  with  man.  We  saw  a  great  number  of  Gulls 
of  various  kinds,  but  mostly  L.  marinus  and  L.  tridac' 
tyliis ;  these  were  on  the  extreme  points  of  sand-bars,  but 
could  not  be  approached,  and  certainly  the  more  numer- 
ous thoy  are,  the  more  wild  and  wary.  On  entering  the 
river  we  saw  several  nets  set  across  a  portion  of  the 
stream  for  the  purpose  of  catching  salmon;  these  seines 
were  fastened  in  the  stream  about  sixty  yards  from  either 
shore,  supported  by  buoys;  the  net  is  fastened  to  the 
shore  by  stakes  that  hold  it  perpendicular  to  the  water; 
the  fish  enter  these,  and  entangle  themselves  until  re- 
moved by  the  fishermen.  On  going  to  a  house  on  the 
shore,  we  found  it  a  tolerably  good  cabin,  floored,  con- 
taining a  good  stove,  a  chimney,  and  an  oven  at  the  bot- 
tom of  this,  like  the  ovens  of  the  French  peasants,  three 
beds,  and  a  table  whereon  the  breakfast  of  the  family  was 
served.  This  consisted  of  coffee  in  large  bowls,  good 
bread,  and  fried  salmon.  Three  Labrador  dogs  came  and 
sniffed  about  us,  and  then  returned  under  the  table 
whence  they  had  issued,  with  no  appearance  of  anger. 
Two  men,  two  women,  and  a  babe  formed  the  group,  which 
I  addressed  in  French.  They  were  French  Canadians 
and  had  been  here  several  years,  winter  and  summer,  and 
are  agents  for  the  Fur  and  Fish  Co. ,  who  give  them  food, 
clothes,  and  about  $80  per  annum.  They  have  a  cow  and 
an  ox,  about  an  acre  of  potatoes  planted  in  sand,  seven 
feet  of  snow  in  winter,  and  two-thirds  less  salmon  than 
was  caught  here  ten  years  since.  Then  three  hundred 
barrels  was  a  fair  season  ;  now  one  hundred  is  the  maxi- 
mum ;  this  is  because  they  will  catch  the  fish  both  ascend- 
ing and  descending  the  river.  During  winter  the  men 
hunt  Foxes,  Martens,  and  Sables,  and  kill  some  Bear  of 
the  black  kind,  but  neither  Deer  nor  other  game  is  to  be 
found  without  going  a  great  distance  in  the  interior, 
where  Reindeer  are  now  and  then  procured.  One  spe- 
cies of  Grouse  and  one  of   Ptarmigan,  the  latter  white 


Sff':^- 


mBmm 


27^ 


AUDUBON 


1 


at  all  seasons;  the  former  I  suppose  to  be  the  Willow 
Grouse.     The  men  would  neither  sell  nor  give  us  a  sin- 
gle salmon,  saying  that  so  strict  were  their  orders  that, 
should  they  sell  one,  the  place  might  be  taken  from  them, 
If  this  should  prove  the  case  everywhere,  I  shall  not  pur- 
chase many  for  my  friends.     The  furs  which  they  collect 
are  sent  off  to  Quebec  at  the  first  opening  of  the  waters 
in  spring,  and  not  a  skin  of  any  sort  was  here  for  us  to 
look  at.     We  met  here  two  large  boats  containing  about 
twenty   Montagnais   Indians,   old   and   young,   men  and 
women.     They  carried  canoes  lashed  to  the  sides,  like 
whale-ships,  for  the  Seal  fishery.     The  men  were  stout  and 
good-looking,   spoke  tolerable   French,   the  skin  redder 
than  any  Indians  I  have  ever  seen,  and  more  clear;  the 
women  appeared  cleaner  than  usual,  their  hair  braided 
and  hanging  down,  jet  black,  but  short.     All  were  dressed 
in  European  costume  except  the  feet,  on  which  coarse 
moccasins  of  sealskin  took  the  place  of  shoes.     I  made  a 
bargain  with  them  for  some  Grouse,  and  three  young  men 
were  despatched  at  once.     On  leaving  the  harbor  this 
morning  we  saw  a  black  man-of-war-like  looking  vessel 
entering  it  with  the  French  flag;  she  anchored  near  us, 
and  on  our  return  we  were  told  it  was  the  Quebec  cutter. 
I  wrote  a  note  to  the  officer  commanding,  enclosing  my 
card,    and    requesting   an    interview.      The    commander 
replied  he  would   receive  me  in  two  hours.     His  name 
was  Captain  Bayfield,  the  vessel  the  "Gulnare."    The 
sailor  who  had  taken  my  note  was  asked  if   I  had  pro- 
cured many  birds,  and  how  far  I   intended  to  proceed. 
After  dinner,  which  consisted  of  hashed  Eider  Ducks, 
which  were  very  good,  the  females  always  being  fat  when 
sitting,   I  cut  off  my  three  weeks'  beard,  put  on  clean 
linen,  and  with  my  credentials  in  my  pocket  went  to  the 
"  Gulnare."     I  was  received  politely,  and  after  talking  on 
deck  for  a  while,  was  invited    into  the  cabin,  and  was 
introduced  to  the  doctor,  who  appeared  to  be  a  man  of 


THE  LABRADOR  JOURNAL 


377 


the  Willow 
ive  us  a  sin- 
orders  that, 

I  from  them, 
hall  not  pur- 

they  collect 
){  the  Avaters 
;re  for  us  to 
aining  about 
ig,  men  and 
le  sides,  like 
^rere  stout  and 
J  skin  redder 
are  clear;  the 
r  hair  braided 

II  were  dressed 
which  coarse 

oes.     I  made  a 
iree  young  men 
he  harbor  this 
looking  vessel 
;hored  near  us, 
Quebec  cutter, 
r,  enclosing  my 
"he   commander 
irs      His  name 
Gulnare."    The 
a  if   I  had  pro- 
ied  to  proceed, 
i  Eider  Ducks, 
.  being  fat  when 
d,  put  on  clean 
>ket  went  to  the 
I  after  talking  on 
cabin,  and  was 
to  be  a  man  oi 


talents,  a  student  of  botany  and  conchology.  Thus  men 
of  the  same  tastes  meet  everywhere,  yet  surely  I  did  not 
expect  to  meet  a  naturalist  on  the  Labrador  coast.  The 
vessel  is  on  a  surveying  cruise,  and  we  are  likely  to  be  in 
company  the  whole  summer.  The  first  lieutenant  studies 
ornithology  and  collects.  After  a  while  I  gave  my  letter 
from  the  Duke  of  Sussex  to  the  captain,  who  read  and 
returned  it  without  comment.  As  I  was  leaving,  the  rain 
poured  down,  and  I  was  invited  to  remain,  but  declined; 
the  captain  promised  to  do  anything  for  me  in  his  power. 
Saw  many  Siskins,  but  cannot  get  a  shot  at  one. 

Jum  liS.     It  was  our  intention  to  have  left  this  morn- 
ing for  another  harbor,  about  fifty  miles  east,   but  the 
wind  being  dead  ahead  we  are  here  still.     I  have  drawn 
all  day,  at   the  background  of  the  Gannets.      John  and 
party  went  off  about  six  miles,  and  returned  with  half  a 
dozen  Guillemots,  and  ten  or  twelve  dozen  eggs.     Cool- 
idge  brought  in  Arctic  Terns  and  L.  marimis;  two  young 
of  the  latter  about  three  weeks  old,  having  the  same  voice 
and  notes  as  the  old  ones.     When  on  board  they  ran  about 
the  deck,  and  fed  themselves  with  pieces  of  fish  thrown 
to  them.     These  young  Gulls,  as  well  as  young  Herons 
of  every  kind,  sit  on  the  tarsus  when  fatigued,  with  their 
feet  extended  before  them    in   a  very  awkward-looking 
position,  but  one  which  to  them  is  no  doubt  comfortable. 
Shattuck  and  I  took  a  walk  over  the  dreary  hills  about 
noon;  the  sun  shone  pleasantly,  and  we  found  several 
flov/ers  in  full  bloom,  amongst  which  the  Kahnia  glauca, 
a  beautiful  small  species,  was  noticeable.     The  captain 
and  surgeon  from  the  "Gulnare"  called  and  invited  me 
to  dine  with  them  to-morrow.      This  evening  we  have 
been  visiting  the  Montagnais  Indians'  camp,  half  a  mile 
from  u,s,  and  found  them  skinning  Seals,  and  preparing 
the  flesh  for  use.     Saw  a  robe  the  size  of  a  good  blanket 
mode  of  seal-skins  tanned  so  soft  and  beautiful,  with  the 
hair  on,  that  it  was  as  pliant  as  a  kid  glove;  they  would 


Z7^ 


AUDUBON 


m 


not  sell  it.     The  chief  of  the  party  proves  to  be  well  in- 
formed, and  speaks  French  so  as  to  be  understood.    He  is 
a  fine-looking  fellow  of  about  forty;  has  a  good-looking 
wife  and  fine  babe.     His  brother  is  also  married,  and  has 
several  sons  from  fourteen  to  twenty  years  old.     When 
we  landed  the  men  came  to  us,  and  after  the  first  saluta- 
tions, to  my  astonishment  offered  us  some  excellent  rum. 
The  women  were  all  seated  apart  outside  of  the  camp, 
engaged  in  closing  up  sundry  packages  of  provisions  and 
accoutrements.     We  entered  a  tent,  and  seated  ourselves 
round  a  cheerful  fire,  the  smoke  of  which  escaped  through 
the  summit  of  the  apartment,  and  over  the  fire  two  ket- 
tles boiled.     I  put  many  questions  to  the  chief  and  his 
brother,  and  gained  this  information.     The  country  from 
here  to  the  first  settlement  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Co.  is  as 
barren  and  rocky  as  that  about  us.     Very  large  lakes  of 
great  depth  are  met  with  about  two  hundred  miles  from 
this  seashore;  these  lakes  abound  in  very  large  trout,  carp, 
and  white  fish,  and  many  mussels,  unfit  to  eat,  which  they 
describe  as  black  outside  and  purple  within,  and  are  no 
doubt  unios.      Not  a  bush  is  to  be  met  with,  and  the 
Indians  who  now  and  then  go  across  are  obliged  to  carry 
their  tent  poles  with  them,  as  well  as  their  canoes;  they 
burn  moss  for  fuel.      So  tedious  is  the  travelling  said 
to  be  that  not  more  than   ten   miles  on  an  average  per 
day  can  be  made,  and  when  the  journey  is  made  in  two 
months  it  is  considered  a  good  one.     Wolves  and  Black 
Bear  are  frequent,  no  Deer,  and  not  many  Caribous ;  not 
a  bird  of  any  kind  except  Wild  Geese  and  Brent  about 
the  lakes,  where  they  breed  in  perfect  peace.     When  the 
journey  is  undertaken  in  the  winter,  which  is  very  seldom 
the  case,  it  is  performed  on  snow-shoes,  and  no  canoes 
are  taken.     Fur  animals  are  scarce,  yet  some  few  Beavers 
and  Otters  are  caught,  a  few  Martens  and  Sables,  and 
some  Foxes  and   Lynx,  but  every  year  diminishes  their 
numbers.     The  Fur  Company  may  be  called  the  exter- 


THE  LABRADOR  JOURNAL 


379 


minating  medium  of  these  wild  and  almost  uninhabitable 
climes,  where  cupidity  and  the  love  of  gold  can  alone  in- 
duce man  to  reside  for  a  while.  Where  can  I  go  now, 
and  visit  nature  undisturbed?  The  Turdus  migratorius'^ 
must  be  the  hardiest  of  the  whole  genus.  I  hear  it  at 
this  moment,  eight  o'clock  at  night,  singing  most  joy- 
ously its  "  Good-night ! "  and  "  All 's  well ! "  to  the  equally 
hardy  Labradorians.  The  common  Crow  and  the  Raven 
are  also  here,  but  the  Magdalene  Islands  appear  to  be  the 
last  outpost  of  the  Warblers,  for  here  the  Black-poll 
Warbler,  the  only  one  we  see,  is  scarce.  The  White- 
throated  and  the  White-crowned  Sparrows  are  the  only 
tolerably  abundant  land  birds.  The  Indians  brought  in 
no  Grouse.  A  fine  adult  specimen  of  the  Larus  marimis 
killed  this  day  has  already  changed  full  half  of  its  pri- 
mary feathers  next  the  body ;  this  bird  had  two  young  ones, 
and  was  shot  as  it  dove  through  the  air  towards  John,  who 
was  near  the  nest ;  this  is  the  first  instance  we  have  seen 
of  so  much  attachment  being  shown  to  the  progeny  with 
danger  at  hand.  Two  male  Eider  Ducks  were  shot  and 
found  very  much  advanced  in  the  moult.  No  doubt  exists 
in  my  mind  that  male  birds  are  much  in  advance  of 
female  in  their  moults;  this  is  very  slow,  and  indeed  is 
not  completed  until  late  in  winter,  after  which  the  bril- 
liancy of  the  bills  and  the  richness  of  the  coloring  of  the 
legs  and  feet  only  improve  as  they  depart  from  the  south 
for  the  north. 

June  2!i..  Drawing  most  of  this  day,  no  birds  procured, 
but  some  few  plants.  I  dined  on  board  the  "  Gulnare  "  at 
five  o'clock,  and  was  obliged  to  shave  and  dress— quite 
a  bore  on  the  coast  of  Labrador,  believe  me.  I  found  the 
captain,  surgeon,  and  three  officers  formed  our  party ;  the 
conversation  ranged  from  botany  to  politics,  from  the 
Established  Church  of  England  to  the  hatching  of  eggs 
by  steam.     1  saw  the  maps  being  made  of  this  coast,  and 

^  Merula  tnigratoria,  the  American  Robin. 


nB^ 

H 

^Bl 

^^^■L 

^^^B- 

^^H^ 

^Hl 

H^^^HL. 

t  li 


nFr^mmmmmm 


l*^' 


«iJHlfiS!fjiP,r: 


380 


AUDUBON 


was  struck  with  the  great  accuracy  of  the  shape  of  our 
present  harbor,  which  I  now  know  full  well.  I  returned 
to  our  vessel  at  ten,  and  am  longing  to  be  farther  north; 
but  the  wind  is  so  contrary  it  would  be  a  loss  of  time  to 
attempt  it  now.  The  weather  is  growing  warmer,  and 
mosquitoes  are  abundant  and  hungry.  Coolidge  shot  a 
White-crowned  Sparrow,  a  male,  while  in  the  act  of  car- 
rying some  materials  to  build  a  nest  with;  so  they  must 
breed  here. 

June  25.  Made  a  drawing  of  the  Arctic  Tern,  of  which 
a  great  number  breed  here.  I  am  of  Temminck's  opin- 
ion that  the  upper  plumage  of  this  species  is  much  darker 
than  that  of  5.  hirundo.  The  young  men,  who  are  always 
ready  for  sport,  caught  a  hundred  codfish  in  half  an  hour, 
and  somewhere  secured  three  fine  salmon,  one  of  which 
we  sent  to  the  "  Gulnare  "  with  some  cod.  Our  harbor  is 
called  "American  Harbor,"  and  also"  Little  Natasquan;" 
it  is  in  latitude  50°  12'  north,  longitude  23°  east  of  Que- 
bec and  61°  53  west  of  Greenwich.  The  waters  of  all  the 
streams  which  we  have  seen  are  of  a  rusty  color,  probably 
on  account  of  the  decomposed  mosses,  which  appear  to  be 
quite  of  a  peaty  nature.  The  rivers  appear  to  be  formed 
by  the  drainage  of  swamps,  fed  apparently  by  rain  and  the 
melting  snows,  and  in  time  of  freshets  the  sand  is  sifted 
out,  and  carried  to  the  mouth  of  every  stream,  where  sand- 
bars are  consequently  met  with.  Below  the  mouth  of 
each  stream  proves  to  be  the  best  station  for  cod-fishing, 
as  there  the  fish  accumulate  to  feed  on  the  fry  which  runs 
into  the  river  to  deposit  spawn,  and  which  they  follow  to 
sea  after  this,  as  soon  as  the  fry  make  off  from  the  riv- 
ers to  deep  water.  It  is  to  be  remarked  that  so  shy  of 
strangers  are  the  agents  of  the  Fur  and  Fish  Company 
that  they  will  evade  all  questions  respecting  the  interior 
of  the  country,  and  indeed  will  willingly  tell  you  such 
untruths  as  at  once  disgust  and  shock  you.  All  this 
through  the  fear  that  strangers  should  attempt  to  settle 


THE  LABRADOR  JOURNAL 


381 


ape  of  out 
1  returned 
ther  north; 
,  of  time  to 
armer,  and 
idge  shot  a 
:  act  of  car- 

0  they  must 

;rn,  of  which 
linck's  opin- 
iTiuch  darker 
10  are  always 
lalf  an  hour, 
)ne  of  which 
3ur  harbor  is 
Natasquan;" 
'  east  of  Que- 
Lters  of  all  the 
plor,  probably 

1  appear  to  be 
to  be  formed 
y  rain  and  the 

sand  is  sifted 
n,  where  sand- 
the  mouth  of 
3r  cod-fishing, 
■ry  which  runs 
they  follow  to 
[  from  the  riv- 
[that  so  shy  of 
Fish  Company 
ig  the  interior 
tell  you  such 
^ou.     All  this 
[tempt  to  settle 


here,  and  divide  with  them  the  profits  which  they  enjoy. 
Bank  Swallows  in  sight  this  moment,  with  the  weather 
thick,  foggy,  and  an  east  wind ;  where  are  these  delicate 
pilgrims  bound  ?  The  Black-poll  Warbler  is  more  abun- 
dant, and  forever  singing,  if  the  noise  it  makes  can  be 
called  a  song;  it  resembles  the  clicking  of  small  pebbles 
together  five  or  six  times,  and  is  renewed  every  few 
minutes. 

June  26.  We  have  been  waiting  five  days  for  wind, 
and  so  has  the  "Gulnare."  The  fishing  fleet  of  six 
or  seven  sails  has  made  out  to  beat  four  miles  to  other 
fishing  grounds.  It  has  rained  nearly  all  day,  but 
we  have  all  been  on  shore,  to  be  beaten  back  by  the 
rain  and  the  mosquitoes.  John  brought  a  female  White- 
crowned  Sparrow;  the  black  and  white  of  the  head 
was  as  pure  as  in  the  male,  which  is  not  common.  It 
rains  hard,  and  is  now  calm.  God  send  us  a  fair  wind 
to-morrow  morning,  and  morning  here  is  about  half -past 
two. 

ynnc  27.  It  rained  quite  hard  when  I  awoke  this 
morning;  the  fog  was  so  thick  the  very  shores  of  our  har- 
bor, not  distant  more  than  a  hundred  yards,  were  enveloped 
in  gloom.  After  breakfast  we  went  ashore;  the  weather 
cleared  up  and  the  wind  blew  fresh.  We  rambled  about 
the  brushwoods  till  dinner  time,  shot  two  Canada  Jays, 
one  old  and  one  young,  the  former  much  darker  than 
those  of  Maine ;  the  young  one  was  full  fledged,  but  had 
no  white  about  its  head;  the  whole  of  the  body  and  head 
was  of  a  deep,  very  deep  blue.  It  must  have  been  about 
three  weeks  old,  and  the  egg  from  which  it  was  hatched 
must  have  been  laid  about  the  loth  of  May,  when  the 
thermometer  was  below  the  freezing-point.  We  shot  also 
a  Ruby-crowned  Wren ;  ^  no  person  who  has  not  heard 
it  would  believe  that  the  song  of  tnis  bird  is  louder, 
stronger,  and  far  more  melodious  than  that  of  the  Canary 
1  Kinglet,  Regulus  calendula.  —  E.  C. 


"'! '.  |-i^^<^^BSpBi»5S 


382 


AUDUBON 


bird.     It  sang  for  a  long  time  ere  it  was  shot,  and  perched 
on  the  tops  of  the  tallest  fir-trees  removing  from  one  to 
another  as  we  approached.     So  strange,  so  beautiful  was 
that   song  that  I  pronounced  the  musician,  ere  it  was 
shot,  a  new  species  of  Warbler.     John  shot  it ;  it  fell  to 
the  ground,  and  though  the  six  of  us  looked  for  it  we 
could  not  find  it,  and  went  elsewhere;  in  the  course  of 
the  afternoon  we  passed  by  the  spot  again,  and  John  found 
it  and  gave  it  to  me.     We  shot  a  new  species  of  Finch, 
which  I  have  named  Fringilla  lincolnii ;  it  is  allied  to  the 
Swamp  Sparrow  in  general  appearance,  but  is  considera- 
bly smaller,  and  may  be  known  at  once  from  all  others 
thus  far  described,  by  the  light  buff  streak  which  runs 
from  the  base  of  the  lower  mandible,  until  it  melts  into 
the  duller  buff  of  the  breast,  and  by  the  bright  ash-streak 
over  the  eye.     The  note  of  this  bird  attracted  me  at  once; 
it  was  loud  and  sonorous ;  the  bird  flew  low  and  forward, 
perching  on  the  firs,  very  shy,  and  cunningly  eluding  our 
pursuit;  we,  however,  shot  three,  but  lost  one.     I  shall 
draw  it  to-morrow.^ 

June  28.  The  weather  shocking  —  rainy,  foggy,  dark 
and  cold.  I  began  drawing  at  daylight,  and  finished  one 
of  my  new  Finches  and  outlined  another.  At  noon  the 
wind  suddenly  changed  and  blew  hard  from  the  north- 
west, with  heavy  rain,  and  such  a  swell  that  I  was  almost 
sea-sick,  and  had  to  abandon  drawing.  We  dined,  and 
immediately  afterward  the  wind  came  round  to  southwest; 
all  was  bustle  with  us  and  with  the  "Gulnare,"  for  we 
both  were  preparing  our  sails  and  raising  our  anchors  ere 
proceeding  to  sea.  We  sailed,  and  managed  so  well  that 
we  cleared  the  outer  cape  east  of  our  harbor,  and  went 
out  to  sea  in  good  style.  The  "  Gulnare  "  was  not  so  for- 
tunate ;  she  attempted  to  beat  out  in  vain,  and  returned  to 

1  An  interesting  note  of  this  new  species  figured  in  B.  of  Am.,  folio  ?'• 
193,  and  described  in  Orn.  Biogr.  ii.,  1834,  p.  539.  It  is  now  known  as 
Melospiza  lincoltii.  —  E.  C. 


THE  LABRADOR  JOURNAL 


383 


t,  and  perched 
y  from  one  to 
beautiful  was 
in,  ere  it  was 
Dt  it;  it  fell  to 
)ked  for  it  we 
I  the  course  cl 
and  John  found 
ecies  of  Finch, 
is  allied  to  the 
at  is  considera- 
from  all  others 
eak  which  runs 
il  it  melts  into 
>right  ash-streak 
:ted  me  at  once; 
ow  and  forward, 
ngly  eluding  our 
,st  one.     I  shall 

liny,  foggy,  dark 
and  finished  one 
;r.     At  noon  the 
from  the  north- 
that  I  was  almost 
We  dined,  and 
ind  to  southwest; 
Gulnare,"  for  we 
g  our  anchors  ere 
aged  so  well  that 
harbor,  and  went 
e  "  was  not  so  for- 
n,  and  returned  to 

i  in  B.  of  Am.,  folio  pi' 
It  is  now  known  « 


her  anchorage.  The  sea  was  so  high  in  consequence  of 
the  late  gales  that  we  all  took  to  our  berths,  and  I  am 
only  now  able  to  write. 

June  29.  At  three  this  morning  we  were  off  the  land 
about  fifteen  miles,  and  about  fifty  from  American  Har- 
bor. Wind  favorable,  but  light;  at  about  ten  it  fresh- 
ened. We  neared  the  shore,  but  as  before  our  would-be 
pilot  could  not  recognize  the  land,  and  our  captain  had 
to  search  for  the  harbor  where  we  now  are,  himself.  We 
passed  near  an  island  covered  with  Foolish  Guillemots, 
and  came  to,  for  the  purpose  of  landing;  we  did  so 
through  a  heavy  surf,  and  found  two  eggers  just  landed, 
and  running  over  the  rocks  for  eggs.  We  did  the  same, 
and  soon  collected  about  a  hundred.  These  men  told  me 
they  visited  every  island  in  the  vicinity  every  day,  and 
that,  in  consequence  they  had  fresh  eggs  every  day.  They 
had  collected  eight  hundred  dozen,  and  expect  to  get  two 
thousand  dozen.  The  number  of  broken  eggs  created  a 
fetid  smell  on  this  island,  scarcely  to  be  borne.  The  L. 
■marinuswQXQ  here  in  hundreds,  and  destroying  the  eggs  of 
the  Guillemots  by  thousands.  From  this  island  we  went 
to  another,  and  there  found  the  Mormon  arcticus  ^  breed- 
ing in  great  numbers.  We  caught  many  in  their  burrows, 
killed  some,  and  collected  some  of  the  eggs.  On  this 
island  their  burrows  were  dug  in  the  light  black  loam 
formed  of  decayed  moss,  three  to  six  feet  deep,  yet  not 
more  than  about  a  foot  under  the  surface.  The  burrows 
ran  in  all  directions,  and  in  some  instances  connected; 
the  end  of  the  burrow  is  rounded,  and  there  is  the  pure 
white  egg.  Those  caught  at  the  holes  bit  most  furiously 
and  scratched  shockingly  with  the  inner  claw,  making  a 
mournful  noise  all  the  time.  The  whole  island  was  per- 
forated with  their  burrows.  No  young  were  yet  hatched, 
and  the  eggers  do  not  collect  these  eggs,  finding  them 
indifferent.  They  say  the  same  of  the  eggs  of  the  Alca 
*  The  Common  Puffin,  now  called  Fratercula  arctica.  —  'E.  C. 


I^r 


384 


AUDUBON 


torda^  which  they  call  "  Tinkers.  "^  The  Moruion,  they 
call  "Sea  Parrots."  Each  species  seems  to  have  its  own 
island  except  the  Alca  torda,  which  admits  the  Guillemots. 
As  we  advanced,  we  passed  by  a  rock  literally  covered 
with  Cormorants,  of  what  species  I  know  not  yet;  their 
effluvia  could  be  perceived  more  than  a  mile  off.  We 
made  the  fine  anchorage  where  we  now  are  about  four 
o'clock.  We  found  some  difficulty  in  entering  on  account 
of  our  pilot  being  an  ignorant  ass;  twice  did  we  see  the 
rocks  under  our  vessel.  The  appearance  of  the  country 
around  is  quite  different  from  that  near  American  Har- 
bor; nothing  in  view  here  as  far  as  eye  can  reach,  but 
bare,  high,  rugged  rocks,  grand  indeed,  but  not  a  shrub 
a  foot  above  the  ground.  The  moss  is  shorter  and  more 
compact,  the  flowers  are  fewer,  and  every  plant  more 
diminutive.  No  matter  which  way  you  glance,  the  pros- 
pect is  cold  and  forbidding;  deep  banks  of  snow  appear 
here  and  there,  and  yet  I  have  found  the  Shore  Lark 
{Alauda  alpestris  ^)  in  beautiful  summer  plumage.  I  found 
the  nest  of  the  Brown  Lark  {Ant/ius  spinoletta  ^)  with  five 
eggs  in  it;  the  nest  was  planted  at  the  foot  of  a  rock, 
buried  in  dark  mould,  and  beautifully  made  of  fine  grass, 
well  and  neatly  worked  in  circularly,  without  any  hair  or 
other  lining.  We  shot  a  White-crowned  Sparrow,  two 
Savannah  Finches,  and  saw  more,  and  a  Red-bellied 
Nuthatch ;  this  last  bird  must  have  been  blown  here  acci- 
dentally, as  not  a  bush  is  there  for  it  to  alight  upon.  I 
found  the  tail  of  an  unknown  Owl,  and  a  dead  Snow-bird 
which  from  its  appearance  must  have  died  from  cold  and 
famine.  John  brought  a  young  Cormorant  alive  from  the 
nest,  but  I  cannot  ascertain  its  species  without  the  adult, 
which  we  hope  to  secure  to-morrow.     At  dusk  the  "  Gui- 

1  This  is  the  usual  sailors'  name  of  the  Razor-billed  Auk  ^^brsdorMd 
Newfoundland,  and  was  the  only  one  heard  by  me  in  Labrador  in  i860 
(see  Proc.  Acad  Nat.  Sci.,  1861,  p.  249).  —  E.  C. 

*  Now  Otocorys  alpestris.  —  E.  C. 

*  Now  Anthus pennsylvanicus.  —  E.  C. 


VICTOR   lilFFORl)    AL"  DLBON. 

I'ROM    llli;   MINlAllKl;   HV    1-.  CRUlKSIl  ANK,   1858. 


-^ 


iTBlfBI 


,  .";,'^  vry—paiqpiHpMii 


THE  LABRADOR  JOURNAL 


385 


nare"  passed  us.     All  my  young  men  are  engaged  in 
skinning  the  Mormon  arcticus. 

June  30.  I  have  drawn  three  birds  this  day  since  eight 
o'clock,  one  Fringilla  lincolnii,  one  Ruby-crowned  Wren, 
and  a  male  White-winged  Crossbill.  Found  a  nest  of  the 
Savannah  Finch  with  two  eggs;  it  was  planted  in  the 
moss,  and  covered  by  a  rampant  branch ;  it  was  made  of 
fine  grass,  neither  hair  nor  feathers  in  its  composition. 
Shot  the  L.  marinus  in  fine  order,  all  with  the  wings  ex- 
tending nearly  two  inches  beyond  the  tail,  and  all  in  the 
same  state  of  moult,  merely  showing  in  the  middle  pri- 
maries. These  birds  suck  other  birds'  eggs  like  Crows, 
Jays,  and  Ravens.  Shot  six  Phalacrocorax  carbo^  in  full 
plumage,  species  well  ascertained  by  their  white  throat; 
found  abundance  of  their  eggs  and  young. 

jfiily  1.  The  weather  was  so  cold  that  it  was  painful 
for  me  to  draw  almost  the  whole  day,  yet  I  have  drawn  a 
White-winged  Crossbill^  and  a  Mormon  arcticus.  We 
have  had  three  of  these  latter  on  board,  alive,  these  three 
days  past;  it  is  amusing  to  see  them  running  about  the 
cabin  and  the  hold  with  a  surprising  quickness,  watch- 
ing our  motions,  and  particularly  our  eyes.  A  Pigeon 
Hawk's 3  nest  was  found  to-day;  it  was  on  the  top  of  a  fir- 
tree  about  ten  feet  high,  made  of  sticks  and  lined  with 
moss,  and  as  large  as  a  Crow's  nest;   it  contained  two 

'  Common  Cormorant.     See  note  on  page  370. 

*  Loxia  leucopUra. 

'  Le  petit  caporal,  Falco  temerarius,  AuD.  Ornith.  Biog.  i.,  1831,  p.  381,  pi. 
8;.  Falco  columbarius,  AuD.  Ornith.  Biog.  i.,  1831,  p.  466,  pi.  92 ;  v.,  1838. 
p.  368.  Synopsis,  1839,  p.  16.  B.  Amer.  8vo,  ed.  i.,  1840,  p.  88,  pi.  21.  Falco 
audiiboni,  Blackwall,  Z06I.  Researches,  1834.  — E.  C. 

In  vol.  v.,  p.  368,  Audubon  says :  "  The  bird  represented  in  the  last 
mentioned  plate,  and  described  under  the  name  of  Falco  temerarius,  was 
merely  a  beautiful  adult  of  the  Pigeon  Hawk,  F.  columbarius.  The  great 
iiueriority  in  size  of  the  individual  represented  as  F\  temararius  was  the 
cause  of  my  mistaking  it  for  a  distinct  species,  and  I  have  pleasure  in  stating 
that  the  Prince  of  Musignano  [Charles  Bonaparte]  was  the  first  person  who 
pointed  out  my  error  to  me  soon  after  the  publication  of  my  first  volume." 

Bonaparte  alludes  to  this  in  his  edition  of  Wilson,  vol.  iii.  p.  252. 
VOL.  I.  —  25 


l^' 


386 


AUDUBON 


birds  just  hatched,  and  three  eggs,  which  the  young  inside 
had  just  cracked.  The  parent  birds  were  anxious  about 
their  newly  born  ones,  and  flew  close  to  us.  The  little 
ones  were  pure  white,  soft  and  downy.  We  found  also 
three  young  of  the  Charadrius  semipalmatiis,^  and  several 
old  ones;  these  birds  breed  on  the  margin  of  a  small 
lake  among  the  low  grasses.  Traces  have  been  seen  of 
Hares  or  Rabbits,  and  one  island  is  perforated  throughout 
its  shallow  substratum  of  moss  by  a  species  of  Rat,  but  in 
such  burrows  search  for  them  is  vain.  The  "Gulnare" 
came  in  this  evening;  our  captain  brought  her  in  as 
pilot.  We  have  had  an  almost  complete  eclipse  of  the 
moon  this  evening  at   half-past   seven.      The  air  very 


chilly. 

July  2. 
M.  arcticns. 
what  I  saw 


A  beautiful  day  for  Labrador.  Drew  another 
Went  on  shore,  and  was  most  pleased  with 
The  country,  so  wild  and  grand,  is  of  itself 
enough  to  interest  any  one  in  its  wonderful  dreariness. 
Its  mossy,  gray-clothed  rocks,  heaped  and  thrown  together 
as  if  by  chance,  in  the  most  fantastical  groups  imagina- 
ble, huge  masses  hanging  on  minor  ones  as  if  about  to 
roll  themselves  down  from  their  doubtful-looking  situa- 
tions, into  the  depths  of  the  sea  beneath.  Bays  without 
end,  sprinkled  with  rocky  islands  of  all  shapes  and  sizes, 
where  in  every  fissure  a  Guillemot,  a  Cormorant,  or 
some  other  wild  bird  retreats  to  secure  its  egg,  and 
raise  its  young,  or  save  itself  from  the  hunter's  pursuit. 
The  peculiar  cast  of  the  sky,  which  never  seems  to  be  cer- 
tain, butterflies  flitting  over  snow-banks,  probing  beauti- 
ful dwarf  flowerets  of  many  hues  pushing  their  tender 
stems  from  the  thick  bed  of  moss  which  everywhere  cov- 
ers the  granite  rocks.  Then  the  morasses,  wherein  you 
plunge  up  to  your  knees,  or  the  walking  over  the  stub- 
born, dwarfish  shrubbery,  making  one  think  that  as  he 
goes  he  treads  down  the  forests  of  Labrador.     The  unex- 

1  American  Ring  Plover,  now  known  as  Mgialitis  semipalmata.  —  E.  C. 


THE  LABRADOR  JOURNAL 


387 


pected  Bunting,  or  perhaps  Sylvia,  which  perchance,  and 
indeed  as  if  by  chance  alone,  you  now  and  then  see  flying 
before  you,  or  hear  singing  from  the  creeping  plants  on 
the  ground.  The  beautiful  fresh-water  lakes,  on  the 
rugged  crests  of  greatly  elevated  islands,  wherein  the  Red 
and  Black-necked  Divers  swim  as  proudly  as  swans  do  in 
other  latitudes,  and  where  the  fish  appear  to  have  been 
cast  as  strayed  beings  from  the  surplus  food  of  the  ocean. 
All  —  all  is  wonderfully  grand,  wild  —  aye,  and  terrific. 
And  yet  how  beautiful  it  is  now,  when  one  sees  the  wild 
bee,  moving  from  one  flower  to  another  in  search  of  food, 
which  doubtless  is  as  sweet  to  it,  as  the  essence  of  the 
magnolia  is  to  those  of  favored  Louisiana.  The  little 
Ring  Plover  rearing  its  delicate  and  tender  young,  the 
Eider  Duck  swimming  man-of-war-like  amid  her  floating 
brood,  like  the  guardship  of  a  most  valuable  convoy;  the 
White-crowned  Bunting's  sonorous  note  reaching  the  ear 
ever  and  anon ;  the  crowds  of  sea-birds  in  search  of  places 
wherein  to  repose  or  to  feed  —  how  beautiful  is  all  this  in 
this  wonderful  rocky  desert  at  this  season,  the  beginning 
of  July,  compared  with  the  horrid  blasts  of  winter  which 
here  predominate  by  the  will  of  God,  when  every  rock  is 
rendered  smooth  with  snows  so  deep  that  every  step  the 
traveller  takes  is  as  if  entering  into  his  grave;  for  even 
should  he  escape  an  avalanche,  his  eye  dreads  to  search 
the  horizon,  for  full  well  does  he  know  that  snow  —  snow 
—  is  all  that  can  be  seen.  I  watched  the  Ring  Plover  for 
some  time;  the  parents  were  so  intent  on  saving  their 
young  that  they  both  lay  on  the  rocks  as  if  shot,  quiver- 
ing their  wings  and  dragging  their  bodies  as  if  quite 
disabled.  We  left  them  and  their  young  to  the  care  of 
the  Creator.  I  would  not  have  shot  one  of  the  old  ones, 
or  taken  one  of  the  young  for  any  consideration,  and  I 
was  glad  my  young  men  were  as  forbearing.  The  L. 
marinus  is  extremely  abundant  here ;  they  are  forever  har- 
assing every  other  bird,  sucking  their  eggs,  and  devouring 


le.  <"  t 


388 


AUDUBON 


their  young;  they  take  here  the  place  of  Eagles  and 
Hawks ;  not  an  Eagle  have  we  seen  yet,  and  only  two  or 
three  small  Hawks,  and  one  small  Owl ;  yet  what  a  har- 
vest they  would  have  here,  were  there  trees  for  them  to 
rest  upon. 

July  3.  We  had  a  regular  stiff  gale  from  the  eastward 
the  whole  day,  accompanied  with  rain  and  cold  weather, 
and  the  water  so  rough  that  I  could  not  go  ashore  to  get 
plants  to  draw.  This  afternoon,  however,  the  wind  and 
waves  abated,  and  we  landed  for  a  short  time.  The  view 
from  the  topmost  rock  overlooking  the  agitated  sea  was 
grand ;  the  small  islets  were  covered  with  the  angry  foam. 
Thank  God !  we  were  not  at  sea.  I  had  the  pleasure  of 
coming  immediately  upon  a  Cormorant's  nest,  that  lay  in 
a  declivity  not  more  than  four  or  five  yards  below  me; 
the  mother  bird  was  on  her  nest  with  three  young;  I  was 
unobserved  by  her  for  some  minutes,  and  was  delighted 
to  see  how  kindly  attentive  she  was  to  her  dear  brood; 
suddenly  her  keen  eye  saw  me,  and  she  flew  off  as  if  to 
dive  in  the  sea. 

July  4"  At  four  this  morning  I  sent  Tom  Lincoln  on 
shore  after  four  plants  and  a  Cormorant's  nest  for  me  to 
draw.  The  nest  was  WitroWy  pasted  to  the  rock's  edge, 
so  thick  was  the  decomposed,  putrid  matter  below  it,  and 
to  which  the  upper  part  of  the  nest  was  attached.  It  was 
formed  of  such  sticks  as  the  country  affords,  sea-moss  and 
other  garbage,  and  weighed  over  fifteen  pounds.  I  have 
drawn  all  day,  and  have  finished  the  plate  of  the  Friiigilla 
lincolnit,  to  which  I  have  put  three  plants  of  the  country, 
all  new  to  me  and  probably  never  before  figured ;  to  us 
they  are  very  fitting  for  the  purpose,  as  Lincoln  gathered 
them.  Our  party  divided  as  usual  into  three  bands:  John 
and  Lincoln  off  after  Divers;  Coolidge,  Shattuck,  and 
Ingalls  to  the  main  land,  and  our  captain  and  four  men 
to  a  pond  after  fish,  which  the>  will  catch  with  a  seine. 
Captain  Bayfield  sent  us  a  quarter  of  mutton,  a  rarity,  I 


■"•■«';  ^"Wi"  ' 


THE  LABRADOR  JOURNAL 


389 


will  venture  to  say,  on  this  coast  even  on  the  Fourth  of 
July.  John  and  Lincoln  returned  with  a  Red-necked 
Diver,  or  Scapegrace,  Coolidge  and  party  with  the  nest 
and  two  eggs  of  the  Colymbus  glacialis.^  This  nest  was 
found  on  the  margin  of  a  pond,  and  was  made  of  short 
grasses,  weeds,  etc. ;  well  fashioned  and  fifteen  inches  in 
diameter.  After  di'uier  John  and  I  went  on  shore  to  re- 
lease a  Uria  grylle  that  we  had  confined  in  the  fissure  of 
a  rock;  the  poor  thing  was  sadly  weak,  but  will  soon  re- 
cover from  this  trial  of  ours. 

'July  6.  John  and  Lincoln  returned  at  sunset  with  a 
Red-necked  Diver,  and  one  egg  of  that  bird ;  t'ley  also 
found  Uria  grylle,  whose  pebbled  nests  were  phced  be- 
neath large  rolling  stones  on  the  earth,  and  not  in  fis- 
sures; Lincoln  thought  them  a  different  species,  but  John 
did  not.  They  brought  some  curious  Eels,  and  an  Arctic 
Tern,  and  saw  the  tracks  of  Deer  and  Caribou,  also  Otter 
paths  from  one  pond  to  another.  They  saw  several  Loons 
and  tolled  them  by  running  towards  them  hallooing  and 
waving  a  handkerchief,  at  which  sight  and  cry  the  Loon 
immediately  swam  towards  them,  until  within  twenty 
yards.  This  "tolling"  is  curious  and  wonderful.  Many 
other  species  of  water-fowl  are  deceived  by  these  manoeu- 
vres, but  none  so  completely  as  the  Loon.  Coolidge's 
party  was  fortunate  enough  to  kill  a  pair  of  Ptarmigans, 
and  to  secure  seven  of  the  young  birds,  hatched  yesterday 
at  furthest.  They  met  with  these  on  the  dreary,  mossy 
tops  of  the  hills,  over  which  we  tread  daily  in  search  of 
knowledge.  This  is  the  species  of  Grouse  of  which  we 
heard  so  much  at  Dennysvillc  last  autumn,  and  glad  I  am 
that  it  is  a  resident  bird  with  us.  The  Larus  marinus 
was  observed  trying  to  catch  the  young  of  the  Eiders.  I 
drew  from  four  o'clock  this  morning  till  three  this  after- 

*  Great  Northern  Diver  or  Loon,  now  called  Urinator,  or  Gavia,  imher. 
The  other  Diver  above  mentioned  as  the  "  Scapegrace  "  is  U.,  or  C,  lumme, 
-E  C. 


390 


AUDUBON 


noon;  finished  a  figure  of  the  Colymbus  septentrionalhy 
Feeling  the  want  of  exercise,  went  off  with  the  captain  a 
few  miles,  to  a  large  rough  island.  To  tread  over  the 
spongy  moss  of  Labrador  is  a  task  beyond  conception 
until  tried;  at  every  step  the  foot  sinks  in  a  deep,  soft 
cushion  which  closes  over  it,  and  it  requires  a  good  deal 
of  exertion  to  pull  it  up  again.  Where  this  moss  hap- 
pens to  be  over  a  marsh,  then  you  sink  a  couple  of  feet 
deep  every  step  you  take ;  to  reach  a  bare  rock  is  delight- 
ful, and  quite  a  relief.  This  afternoon  I  thought  the 
country  looked  more  terrify  ingly  wild  than  ever;  the  dark 
clouds,  casting  their  shadows  on  the  stupendous  masses  of 
rugged  rock,  lead  the  imagination  into  regions  impossible 
to  describe.  The  Scoter  Ducks,  of  which  I  havre  seen 
many  this  day,  were  partially  moulted,  and  could  fly  only 
a  short  distance,  and  must  be  either  barren  or  the  young 
bachelors,  as  I  find  parents  in  full  plumage,  convincing 
me  that  these  former  moult  earlier  than  the  breeding 
Ducks.  I  have  observed  this  strange  fact  so  often  now 
that  I  shall  say  no  more  about  it ;  I  have  found  it  in 
nearly  all  the  species  of  the  birds  here.  I  do  not  know 
of  any  writer  on  the  history  of  birds  having  observed  this 
curious  fact  before.  I  have  now  my  hands  full  of  work, 
and  go  to  bed  delighted  that  to-morrow  I  shall  draw  a 
Ptarmigan  which  I  can  swear  to,  as  being  a  United  States 
species.  I  am  much  fatigued  and  wet  to  the  very  skin, 
but,  oh !  we  found  the  nest  of  a  Peregrine  Falcon  on  a 
tremendous  cliff,  with  a  young  one  about  a  week  old, 
quite  white  with  down;  the  parents  flew  fiercely  at  our 
eyes. 

July  6.  By  dint  of  hard  work  and  rising  at  three,! 
have  drawn  a  Colymbus  septentrionalis  and  a  young  one, 
and  nearly  finished  a  Ptarmigan ;  this  afternoon,  however, 
at  half-past  five,  my  fingers  could  no  longer  hold  my 
pencil,   and   I  was  forced  to  abandon   my  work  and  go 

1  Red-throated  Diver,  now  Urinator,  or  Gavia,  lumme.  —  E.  C. 


»I!H^    T."    f;!f;     i 


THE  LABRADOR  JOURNAL 


391 


septentnonaln} 
ith  the  captain  a 
)  tread  over  the 
^ond  conception 
in  a  deep,  soft 
lires  a  good  deal 
;  this  moss  hap- 
a  couple  of  feet 
2  rock  is  delight- 
n  I  thought  the 
an  ever ;  the  dark 
tendous  masses  of 
;gions  impossible 
hich  I  ha^e  seen 
md  could  fly  only 
rren  or  the  young 
mage,  convincing 
tian  the  breeding 
fact  so  often  now 
have  found  it  in 
I.     I  do  not  know 
ving  observed  this 
ands  full  of  work, 
3W  I  shall  draw  a 
ng  a  United  States 
to  the  very  skin, 
rine  Falcon  on  a 
ibout  a  week  old, 
ew  fiercely  at  our 

I  rising  at  three,! 

and  a  young  one, 

afternoon,  however, 

longer  hold  my 

my  work  and  go 


o 


J 


1 


/a,  lummt. 


ashore  for  exercise.  The  fact  is  that  I  am  growing  old  too 
fast ;  alas !  I  feel  it  —  and  yet  work  I  will,  and  may  God 
grant  me  life  to  see  the  last  plate  of  my  mammoth  work 
finished.  I  have  heard  the  Brown  Lark  {Atit/ms  spinolettd) 
sing  many  a  time  this  day,  both  on  the  wing  and  whilst 
sitting  on  the  ground.  When  on  the  wing  it  sings  while 
flying  very  irregularly  in  zigzags,  up  and  down,  etc. ;  when 
on  a  rock  (which  it  prefers)  it  stands  erect,  and  sings,  I 
think,  more  clearly.  John  found  the  nest  of  a  White- 
crowned  Bunting  with  five  eggs ;  he  was  creeping  through 
some  low  bushes  after  a  Red-necked  Diver,  and  accident- 
ally coming  upon  it,  startled  the  female,  which  made  much 
noise  and  complaint.  The  nest  was  like  the  one  Lincoln 
found  placed  in  the  moss,  under  a  low  bough,  and  formed 
of  beautiful  moss  outwardly,  dried,  fine  grass  next  inside, 
and  exquisitely  lined  with  fibrous  roots  of  a  rich  yellow 
color;  the  eggs  are  light  greenish,  slightly  sprinkled  with 
reddish-brown,  in  size  about  the  same  as  eggs  of  the  Song 
Sparrow.  This  Fringilla^  is  the  most  abundant  in  this 
part  of  Labrador,  We  have  seen  two  Swamp  Sparrows 
only.  We  have  found  two  nests  of  the  Peregrine  Falcon, 
placed  high  on  rocky  declivities.  Coolidge  and  party 
shot  two  Oyster  Catchers;  these  are  becoming  plentiful. 
Lieutenant  Bowen  of  the  "  Gulnare  "  brought  me  a  Pere- 
grine Falcon,  and  two  young  of  the  Alca  torda,  the  first 
hatched  we  have  seen,  and  only  two  or  three  days  old. 

July  7.  Drawing  all  day;  finished  the  female  Grouse 
and  five  young,  and  prepared  the  male  bird.  The  captain, 
John,  and  Lincoln,  went  oflf  this  afternoon  with  a  view  to 
camp  on  a  bay  about  ten  miles  distant.  Soon  after,  we  had 
a  change  of  weather,  and,  for  a  wonder,  bright  lightning 
and  something  like  summer  clouds.  When  fatigued  with 
drawing  I  went  on  shore  for  exercise,  and  saw  many  pretty 
flowers,  amongst  them  a  flowering  Sea-pea,  quite  rich  in 

1  The  White-crowned  and  White-throated  Sparrows  are  now  placed  in 
the  genus  Zonotrkhia.  —  E.  C. 


I! 


1  * 


?^f«pm 


392 


AUDUBON 


color.  Dr.  Kelly  from  the  "  Gulnare "  went  with  me. 
Captain  Bayfield  and  Lieutenant  Bowen  went  off  this 
morning  on  a  three  weeks'  expedition  in  open  boats,  but 
with  tents  and  more  comforts  than  I  have  ever  enjoyed  in 
hunting  excursions.  The  mosquitoes  quite  as  numerous 
as  in  Louisiana. 

July  8.  Rainy,  dirty  weather,  wind  east.  Was  at  work 
at  half-past  three,  but  disagreeable  indeed  is  my  situation 
during  bad  weather.  The  rain  falls  on  my  drawing-paper, 
despite  all  I  can  do,  and  even  the  fog  collects  and  falls  in 
large  drops  from  the  rigging  on  my  table ;  now  and  then 
I  am  obliged  to  close  my  skylight,  and  then  may  be  said 
to  work  almost  in  darkness.  Notwithstanding,  I  finished 
my  cock  Ptarmigan,  and  three  more  young,  and  now  con- 
sider it  a  handsome  large  plate.  John  and  party  returned, 
cold,  wet,  and  hungry.  Shot  nothing,  camp  disagreeable, 
and  nothing  to  relate  but  that  they  heard  a  Wolf,  and  found 
an  island  with  thousands  of  the  Mormon  arcticus  breeding 
on  it.  To-morrow  I  shall  draw  the  beautiful  Colymbus 
glacialis  in  most  perfect  plumage. 

July  9.  The  wind  east,  of  course  disagreeable;  wet  and 
foggy  besides.  The  most  wonderful  climate  in  the  world. 
Cold  as  it  is,  mosquitoes  in  profusion,  plants  blooming  by 
millions,  and  at  every  step  you  tread  on  such  as  would 
be  looked  upon  with  pleasure  in  more  temperate  climes. 
I  wish  I  were  a  better  botanist,  that  I  might  describe  them 
as  I  do  birds.  Dr.  Wm.  Kelly  has  given  me  the  list  of 
such  plants  as  he  has  observed  on  the  coast  as  far  as 
Macatine  Island.  I  have  drawn  all  day  at  the  Loon,  a 
most  difficult  bird  to  imitate.  For  my  part,  I  cannot  help 
smiling  at  the  presumption  of  some  of  our  authors,  who 
modestly  assert  that  their  figures  are  "  up  to  nature." 
May  God  forgive  them,  and  teach  me  to  copy  His  works; 
glad  and  happy  shall  I  then  be.  Lincoln  and  Shattuck 
brought  some  fresh-water  shells  from  a  large  pond  inland; 
they  saw  a  large  bird  which  they  took  for  an  Owl,  but 


'  1l 


THE  LABRADOR  JOURNAL 


393 


;nt  with  me. 
vent  off  this 
en  boats,  but 
er  enjoyed  in 
as  numerous 

Was  at  work 
3  my  situation 
Jrawing-paper, 
3ts  and  falls  in 

now  and  then 
n  may  be  said 
ling,  I  finished 
,  and  now  con- 
party  returned, 
ip  disagreeable, 
Wolf,  and  found 
rcticiis  breeding 
utiful   Colymhui 

eeable ;  wet  and 
te  in  the  world, 
ts  blooming  by 
such  as  would 
perate  climes. 
Lt  describe  them 
me  the  list  of 
coast  as  far  as 
at  the  Loon,  a 
It,  I  cannot  help 
|ur  authors,  who 
up   to   nature." 
■opy  His  works; 
,n  and  Shattuck 
e  pond  inland; 
For  an  Owl,  but 


which  they  could  not  approach ;  they  also  caught  a  frog, 
but  lost  it  out  of  their  game  bag. 

July  10.     Could  I  describe  one  of  these  dismal  gales 

which  blow  ever  and  anon  over  this  desolate  country,  it 

would  in  all  probability  be  of  interest  to  one  unacquainted 

with  the  inclemency  of  the  climate.     Nowhere  else  is  the 

power  of  the  northeast  gale,  which  blows  every  week  on  the 

coast  of  Labrador,  so  keenly  felt  as  here.    I  cannot  describe 

it;  all  I  can  say  is  that  whilst  we  are  in  as  fine  and  safe  a 

harbor  as  could  be  wished  for,  and  completely  land-locked 

all  round,  so  strong  does  the  wind  blow,  and  so  great  its 

influence  on  our  vessel,  that  her  motion  will  not  allow  me 

to  draw,  and  indeed  once  this  day  forced  me  to  my  berth, 

as  well  as  some  others  of  our  party.     One  would  imagine 

all  the  powers  of  Boreas  had  been  put  to  work  to  give  us  a 

true  idea  of  what  his  energies  can  produce,  even  in  so  snug  a 

harbor.     What  is  felt  outside  I  cannot  imagine,  but  greatly 

fear  that  few  vessels  could  ride  safely  before  these  horrid 

blasts,  that  now  and  then  seem  strong  enough  to  rend  the 

very  rocks  asunder.     The  rain  is  driven  in  sheets  which 

seem  scarcely  to  fall  on  sea  or  land ;  I  can  hardly  call  it 

rain,  it  is  rather  a  mass  of  water,  so  thick  that  all  objects 

at  any  distance  from  us  are  lost  to  sight  every  three  or 

four  minutes,  and  the  waters  comb  up  and  beat  about  us 

in  our  rock-bound    harbor  as  a  newly  caged  bird   does 

against  its  imprisoning   walls.     The   Great  Black-backed 

Gull  alone  is  seen  floating  through  the  storm,  screaming 

loudly  and  mournfully  as  it  seeks  its  prey;  not  another 

bird  is  to  be  seen  abroad ;  the  Cormorants  are  all  settled 

in  the  rocks  close  to  us,  the  Guillemots  are  deep  in  the 

fissures,  every  Eider  Duck  lays   under  the  lee  of  some 

point,  her  brood  snugly  benea*.h  her  opened  wings,  the 

Loon  and  the   Diver   have   crawled    among   the    rankest 

weeds,  and  are  patiently  waiting  for  a  return  of  fair  weather, 

the  Grouse   is  quite   hid   under  the  creeping  willow,  the 

Great  Gray  Owl  is  perched  on  the  southern  declivity  of 


394 


A  [/DC/BOAT 


some  stupendous  rock,  and  the  gale  continues  as  if  it  would 
never  stop.  On  rambling  about  the  shores  of  the  numer- 
ous bays  and  inlets  of  this  coast,  you  cannot  but  observe 
immense  beds  of  round  stone  of  all  sizes,  some  of  very  large 
dimensions  rolled  side  by  side  and  piled  one  upon  another 
many  deep,  cast  there  by  some  great  force  of  nature.  1 
have  seen  many  such  places,  and  never  without  astonish- 
ment and  awe.  If  those  great  boulders  are  brought  from 
the  bottom  of  the  sea,  and  cast  hundreds  of  yards  on 
shore,  this  will  give  some  idea  of  what  a  gale  on  the  coast 
of  Labrador  can  be,  and  what  the  force  of  the  waves.  I 
tried  to  finish  my  drawing  of  the  Loon,  but  in  vain;  I 
covered  my  paper  to  protect  it  from  the  rain,  with  the 
exception  only  of  the  few  inches  where  I  wished  to  work, 
and  yet  that  small  space  was  not  spared  by  the  drops  that 
fell  from  the  rigging  on  my  table ;  there  is  no  window,  and 
the  only  light  is  admitted  through  hatches. 

yu/_y  11.  The  gale,  or  hurricane,  or  whatever  else  the 
weather  of  yesterday  was,  subsided  about  midnight,  and  at 
sunrise  this  morning  it  was  quite  calm,  and  the  horizon 
fiery  red.  It  soon  became  cloudy,  and  the  wind  has  been 
all  round  the  compass.  I  wished  to  go  a  hundred  miles 
farther  north,  but  the  captain  says  I  must  be  contented 
here,  so  I  shall  proceed  with  my  drawings.  I  began  a  Cor- 
morant and  two  young,  having  sent  John  and  Lincoln  for 
them  before  three  this  morning;  and  they  procured  them  in 
less  than  half  an  hour.  Many  of  the  young  are  nearly  as 
large  as  their  parents,  and  yet  have  scarcely  a  feather,  but 
are  covered  with  woolly  down,  of  a  sooty  black.  The  ex- 
cursions brought  in  nothing  new.  The  Shore  Lark  has 
become  abundant,  but  the  nest  remains  still  unknown.  A , 
tail  feather  of  the  Red-tailed  Hawk,  young,  was  found;  i 
therefore  that  species  exists  here.  We  are  the  more 
surprised  that  not  a  Hawk  nor  an  Owl  is  seen,  as 
we  find  hundreds  of  sea-birds  devoured,  the  wings  only j 
remaining. 


THE  LABRADOR  JOURNAL 


395 


July  12.  At  this  very  moment  it  is  blowing  another 
gale  from  the  east,  and  it  has  been  raining  hard  ever  since 
the  middle  of  the  day.  Of  course  it  has  been  very  difficult 
to  draw,  but  I  have  finished  the  Cormorant.  John  and 
Lincoln  brought  in  nothing  new,  except  the  nest  and  ten 
eggs  of  a  Red-breasted  Merganser.  The  nest  was  placed 
near  the  edge  of  a  very  small  fresh-water  pond,  under  the 
creeping  branches  of  one  of  this  country's  fir-trees,  the  top 
of  which  would  be  about  a  foot  above  ground;  it  is  like 
the  Eider's  nest,  but  smaller  and  better  fashioned,  of  weeds 
and  mosses,  and  warmly  lined  with  down.  The  eggs  are 
dirty  yellow,  very  smooth  shelled,  and  look  like  hen's- 
eggs,  only  rather  stouter.  John  lay  in  wait  for  the  parent 
over  two  hours,  but  though  he  saw  her  glide  off  the  nest, 
she  was  too  wary  to  return.  I  saw  a  Black-backed  Gull 
plunge  on  a  Crab  as  big  as  my  two  fists,  in  about  two  feet 
of  water,  seize  it  and  haul  it  ashore,  where  it  ate  it  while  I 
watched  it;  I  could  see  the  Crab  torn  piece  by  piece,  till 
the  shell  and  legs  alone  remained.  The  Gull  then  flew  in 
a  direct  line  towards  her  nest,  distant  about  a  mile,  probably 
to  disgorge  her  food  in  favor  of  her  young.  Our  two  young 
Gulls,  which  we  now  have  had  for  nearly  a  month,  act 
just  as  Vultures  would.  We  throw  them  a  dead  Duck  or 
even  a  dead  Gull,  and  they  tear  it  to  pieces,  drinking  the 
blood  and  swallowing  the  flesh,  each  constantly  trying  to 
rob  the  other  of  the  piece  of  flesh  which  he  has  torn  from 
the  carcass.  They  do  not  drink  water,  but  frequently 
wash  the  blood  off  their  bills  by  plunging  them  in  water, 
and  then  violently  shaking  their  heads.  They  are  now 
half  fledged. 

July  13.  When  I  rose  this  morning  at  half-past  three, 
the  wind  was  northeast,  and  but  little  of  it.  The  weather 
was  cloudy  and  looked  bad,  as  it  always  does  here  after  a 
storm.  I  thought  I  would  spend  the  day  on  board  the 
"Gulnare,"  and  draw  at  the  ground  of  my  Grouse,  which  I 
had  promised  to  Dr.  Kelly.     However,  at  seven  the  wind 


timv       ^ 


mmmt 


396 


AUDUBON 


11 


was  west,  and  we  immediately  prepared  to  leave  our  fine 
harbor.  By  eight  we  passed  the  "  Gulnare,"  bid  her  officers 
and  crew  farewell,  beat  out  of  the  narrow  passage  beauti- 
fully, and  proceeded  to  sea  with  the  hope  of  reaching  the 
harbor  of  Little  Macatine,  distant  forty-three  miles;  but 
ere  the  middle  of  the  day  it  became  calm,  then  rain,  then 
the  wind  to  the  east  again,  and  all  were  sea-sick  as  much 
as  ever,  I  saw  a  Lcstris  ^  near  the  vessel,  but  of  what  kind 
I  could  not  tell,  —  it  flew  like  a  Pigeon  Hawk,  alighting  on 
the  water  like  a  Gull,  and  fed  on  some  codfish  liver  which 
was  thrown  overboard  for  it,  —  and  some  Thalassidroma} 
but  none  came  within  shot,  and  the  sea  was  too  rough  to 
go  after  them.  About  a  dozen  common  Crossbills,  and  as 
many  Redpolls  {Fringilla  \Acanthis\  linarid)  came  and 
perched  on  our  top-yards,  but  I  would  not  have  them  shot, 
and  none  were  caught.  Our  young  men  have  been  fishing 
to  pass  the  time,  and  have  caught  a  number  of  cod. 

July  III..  The  wind  blew  cold  and  sharp  from  the  north- 
east this  morning,  and  we  found  ourselves  within  twenty  miles 
of  "  Little  Macatine,"  the  sea  beating  heavily  on  our  bows, 
as  we  beat  to  the  windward,  tack  after  tack.  At  noon  it 
was  quite  calm,  and  the  wished-for  island  in  sight,  but  our 
captain  despairs  of  reaching  it  to-day.  It  looks  high  and 
horribly  rugged,  the  highest  land  v/e  have  yet  seen.  At 
four  o'clock,  being  about  a  mile  and  a  half  distant,  we  tooi( 
the  green  boat,  and  went  off.  As  we  approached,  I  was 
surprised  to  see  how  small  some  Ducks  looked  which  flew 
between  us  and  the  rocks,  so  stupendously  high  were  the 
rough  shores  under  which  our  little  bark  moved  along. 
We  doubled  the  cape  and  came  to  the  entrance  of  the 
Little  Macatine  harbor,  but  so  small  did  it  appear  to  me 
that  I  doubted  if  it  was  the  harbor ;  the  shores  were  terri- 
bly wild,  fearfully  high  and  rugged,  and  nothing  was  heard 
but  the  croaking  of  a  pair  of  Ravens  and  their  half-grown 
brood,  mingling  with  the  roar  of  the  surf  against  the  rocky 

^  Jager.  "^  Petrels,  most  probably  Cymockorea  leucorrhoa.  —  E.  C. 


THE  LABRADOR  JOURNAL 


397 


4 


ledges  which  projected  everywhere,  and  sent  the  angry 
waters  foaming  into  the  air.  The  wind  now  freshened,  the 
"Ripley's"  sails  swelled,  and  she  was  gently  propelled 
through  the  water  and  came  within  sight  of  the  harbor, 
on  the  rocks  of  which  we  stood  waiting  for  her,  when  all  of 
a  sudden  she  veered,  and  we  saw  her  topsails  hauled  in 
and  bent  in  a  moment;  we  thought  she  must  have  seen  a 
sunken  rock,  and  had  thus  wheeled  to  avoid  it,  but  soon 
saw  her  coming  up  again  and  learned  that  it  was  merely 
because  she  had  nearly  passed  the  entrance  of  the  harbor 
ere  aware  of  it.  Our  harbor  is  the  very  representation  of 
the  bottom  of  a  large  bowl,  in  the  centre  of  which  our  vessel 
is  now  safely  at  anchor,  surrounded  by  rocks  fully  a  thou- 
sand feet  high,  and  the  wildest-looking  place  I  ever  was  in. 
After  supper  we  all  went  ashore ;  some  scampered  up  the 
steepest  hills  next  to  us,  but  John,  Shattuck,  and  myself 
went  up  the  harbor,  and  after  climbing  to  the  top  of  a 
mountain  (for  I  cannot  call  it  a  hill)  went  down  a  steep 
incline,  up  another  hill,  and  so  on  till  we  reached  the  crest 
of  the  island,  and  surveyed  all  beneath  us.  Nothing  but 
rocks  —  barren  rocks  —  wild  as  the  wildest  of  the  Apen- 
nines everywhere ;  the  moss  only  a  few  inches  deep,  and 
the  soil  or  decomposed  matter  beneath  it  so  moist  that, 
wherever  there  was  an  incline,  the  whole  slipped  from 
under  our  feet  like  an  avalanche,  and  down  we  slid  for  feet 
or  yards.  The  labor  was  excessive ;  at  the  bottom  of  each 
dividing  ravine  the  scrub  bushes  intercepted  our  way  for 
twenty  or  thirty  paces,  over  which  we  had  to  scramble 
with  great  exertion,  and  on  our  return  we  slid  down  fifty 
feet  or  more  into  an  unknown  pit  of  moss  and  mire,  more 
or  less  deep.  We  started  a  female  Black-cap  Warbler 
from  her  nest,  and  I  found  it  with  four  eggs,  placed  in  the 
fork  of  a  bush  about  three  feet  from  the  ground ;  a  beauti- 
ful little  mansion,  and  I  will  describe  it  to-morrow.  I  am 
wet  through,  and  find  the  mosquitoes  as  troublesome  as  in 
the  Floridas. 


^mmimimm 


398 


//  UDUBON 


■ft 


July  15.  Our  fine  weather  of  yesterday  was  lost  some- 
time in  the  night.  As  every  one  was  keen  to  go  off  and 
see  the  country,  we  breakfasted  at  three  o'clock  this 
morning.  The  weather  dubious,  wind  east.  Two  boats 
with  the  young  men  moved  off  in  different  directions.  I 
sat  to  finishing  the  ground  of  my  Grouse,  and  by  nine  had 
to  shift  my  quarters,  as  it  rained  hard.  By  ten  John  and 
Lincoln  had  returned  ;  these  two  always  go  together,  being 
the  strongest  and  most  active,  as  well  as  the  most  experi- 
enced shots,  though  Coolidge  and  Ingalls  are  not  far  be- 
hind them  in  this.  They  brought  a  Red-necked  Diver  and 
one  egg  of  that  bird ;  the  nest  was  placed  on  the  edge  of 
a  very  small  pond,  not  more  than  ten  square  yards.  Our 
harbor  had  many  Lams  zo7iorhynchus^  {Common  Gull); 
the  captain  shot  one.  I  have  never  seen  them  so  abundant 
as  here.  Their  flight  is  graceful  and  elevated ;  when  they 
descend  for  food  the  legs  and  feet  generally  drop  below 
the  body.  They  appear  to  know  gunshot  distance  with 
wonderful  precision,  and  it  is  seldom  indeed  that  one  comes 
near  enough  to  be  secured.  They  alight  on  the  water 
with  great  delicacy,  and  swim  beautifully.  Coolidge's 
party  brought  a  nest  of  the  White-crowned  Bunting  {Frin- 
gilla  leticophyrs)  and  three  specimens  of  the  bird,  also  two 
Charadrius  semipalmatus.  They  found  an  island  with 
many  nests  of  the  Phalacrocorax  dilophus?  but  only  one 
^^%,  and  thought  the  nests  were  old  and  abandoned.  One 
of  the  young  Ravens  from  the  nest  flew  off  at  the  sight  of 
one  of  our  men,  and  fell  into  the  water;  it  was  caught  and 
brought  to  me ;  it  was  nearly  fledged.  I  trimmed  one  of 
its  wings,  and  turned  it  loose  on  the  deck,  but  in  attempt- 
ing to  rejoin  its  mother,  who  called  most  loudly  from  on 
high  on  the  wing,  the  young  one  walked  to  the  end  of  the 
bowsprit,  jumped  into  the  water,  and  was  drowned ;  and 
soon  after  I  saw  the  poor  mother  chased  by  a  Peregrine 

*  Now  L.  delawarensis,  also  called  Ring-billed  Gull.  —  E.  C. 
'  Double-crested  Cormorant. 


r  U 


T//E  LABRADOR  JOURNAL 


399 


Falcon  with  great  fury;  she  made  for  her  nest,  and  when 
the  Falcon  saw  her  alight  on  the  margin  of  her  ledge,  it 
flew  off.  I  never  thought  that  such  a  Hawk  could  chase 
with  effect  so  large  and  so  powerful  a  bird  as  the  Raven. 
Some  of  our  men  who  have  been  eggers  and  fishermen 
have  seen  these  Ravens  here  every  season  for  the  last 
eight  or  nine  years. 

July  16.  Another  day  of  dirty  weather,  and  all  obliged 
to  remain  on  board  the  greater  portion  of  the  time.  I 
managed  to  draw  at  my  Grouse  and  put  in  some  handsome 
wild  peas,  Labrador  tea-plant,  and  also  one  other  plant,  un- 
known to  me.  This  afternoon  the  young  men  went  off,  and 
the  result  has  been  three  White-crowned  Buntings,  and  a 
female  Black-capped  Warbler.  Our  captain  did  much 
better  for  me,  for  in  less  than  an  hour  he  returned  on 
board  with  thirty  fine  codfish,  some  of  which  we  relished 
well  at  our  supper.  This  evening  the  fog  is  so  thick  that 
we  cannot  see  the  summit  of  the  rocks  around  us.  The 
harbor  has  been  full  of  Gulls  the  whole  day.  The  captain 
brought  me  what  he  called  an  Esquimau  codfish,  which 
perhaps  has  never  been  described,  and  we  have  spirited 
him.  We  found  a  new  species  of  floweret  of  the  genus 
Silene^  but  unknown  to  us.  We  have  now  lost  four  days 
in  succession. 

July  17.  The  mosquitoes  so  annoyed  me  last  night 
that  I  did  not  even  close  my  eyes.  I  tried  the  deck  of  the 
vessel,  and  though  the  fog  was  as  thick  as  fine  rain,  these 
insects  attacked  me  by  thousands,  and  I  returned  below, 
where  I  continued  fighting  them  till  daylight,  when  I  had 
a  roaring  fire  made  and  got  rid  of  them.  The  fog  has 
been  as  thick  as  ever,  and  rain  has  fallen  heavily,  though 
the  wind  is  southwest.  I  have  drawn  five  eggs  of  land- 
birds  :  that  of  Falco  columbarius^  Fringilla  leucophyrs^  An- 
thus  spinoletta,^  Sylvia  striata,^  and  Fringilla  savanna.^    I 


"  The  Catchfly. 
*  Brown  Titlark. 


2  Pigeon  Hawk. 

6  Black-poll  Warbler. 


'  White-crowned  Sparrow. 
"  Savannah  Finch. 


-xm 


mmmm 


400 


AUDUBON 


m. 


'■WBW-l 


also  outlined  in  the  mountainous  hills  near  our  vessel,  as 
a  background  to  my  Willow  Grouse.  John  and  Coolidge 
with  their  companions  brought  in  several  specimens,  but 
nothing  new.  Coolidge  brought  two  young  of  the  Red' 
necked  Diver,  which  he  caught  at  the  bottom  of  a  small 
pond  by  putting  his  gun  rod  on  them,  —  the  little  things 
diving  most  admirably,  and  going  about  the  bottom  with 
as  much  apparent  ease  as  fishes  would.  The  captain  and 
I  went  to  an  island  where  the  Phalacrocorax  dilophus^ 
were  abundant;  thousands  of  young  of  all  sizes,  from  just 
hatched  to  nearly  full-grown,  all  opening  their  bills  and 
squawking  most  vociferously;  the  noise  was  shocking  and 
the  stench  intolerable.  No  doubt  exists  with  us  now  that 
the  Shore  Lark  breeds  here ;  we  meet  with  them  very  fre- 
quently. A  beautiful  species  of  violet  was  found,  and  I 
have  transplanted  several  for  Lucy,  but  it  is  doubtful  if 
they  will  survive  the  voyage. 

July  18.  We  all,  with  the  exception  of  the  cook,  left 
the  "  Ripley"  in  three  boats  immediately  after  our  early 
breakfast,  and  went  to  the  main  land,  distant  some  five 
miles.  The  fog  was  thick  enough,  but  the  wind  promised 
fair  weather,  and  we  have  had  it.  As  soon  as  we  landed 
the  captain  and  I  went  off  over  a  large  extent  of  marsh 
ground,  the  first  we  have  yet  met  with  in  this  country; 
the  earth  was  wet,  our  feet  sank  far  in  the  soil,  and 
walking  was  extremely  irksome.  In  crossing  what  is  here 
called  a  wood,  we  found  a  nest  of  Pants  hndsonicus''  con- 
taining four  young,  able  to  fly;  we  procured  the  parents 
also,  and  I  shall  have  the  pleasure  of  drawing  them  to- 
morrow; this  bird  has  never  been  figured  that  I  know. 
Their  manners  resemble  those  of  the  Black-headed  Tit- 
mouse, or  Chickadee,  and  their  notes  are  fully  as  strong, 
and  clamorous,  and  constant  as  those  of  either  of  our  own 
species.  Few  birds  do  I  know  that  possess  more  active 
powers.  The  nest  was  dug  by  the  bird  out  of  a  dead  and 
1  Double-crested  Cormorant.  *  Hudson's  Bay  Titmouse. 


THE  LABRADOR  JOURNAL 


401 


rotten  stuinp,  about  five  feet  from  the  {jroiind ;  the  aper- 
ture, one  and  a  quarter  inches  in  diameter,  was  as  round  as 
if  made  by  a  small  Woodpecker,  or  a  Flying-squirrel.  The 
hole  inside  was  four  by  six  inches;  at  the  bottom  a  bed 
of  chips  was  found,  but  the  nest  itself  resembled  a  purse 
formed  of  the  most  beautiful  and  softest  hair  imaginable, 
—  of  Sables,  Ermines,  Martens,  Hares,  etc.;  a  warmer  and 
snu<,'ger  apartment  no  bird  could  desire,  even  in  this  cold 
country.  On  leaving  the  wood  we  shot  a  Spruce  Par- 
tridge leading  her  young.  On  seeing  us  she  ruffled  her 
feather.!  like  a  barnyard  hen,  and  rounded  within  a  few  feet 
of  us  to  defend  her  brood ;  her  very  looks  claimed  our 
forbearance  and  clemency,  but  the  enthusiastic  desire  to 
study  nature  prompted  me  to  destroy  her,  and  she  was 
shot,  and  her  brood  secured  in  a  few  moments;  the  young 
very  pretty  and  able  to  fly.  This  bird  was  so  very  gray 
that  she  might  almost  have  been  pronounced  a  different 
species  from  those  at  Dennysv'lle,  Me.,  last  autumn ;  but 
this  difference  is  occasioned  by  its  being  born  so  much 
farther  north ;  the  difference  is  no  greater  than  in  Tctrao 
umbcllus '  in  Maine,  and  the  same  bird  in  western  Pennsyl- 
vania. We  crossed  a  savannah  of  many  miles  in  extent; 
in  many  places  the  soil  appeared  to  wave  under  us,  and 
,  we  expected  at  each  step  to  go  through  the  superficial 
I     moss  carpet  up  to  our  middles  in  the  mire;  so  wet  and  so 

■■■> 

spongy  was  it  that  I  think  I  never  labored  harder  in  a 
J  walk  of  the  same  extent.  In  travelling  through  this  quag- 
mire we  met  with  a  small  grove  of  good-sized,  fine  white- 
birch  trees,  and  a  few  pines  full  forty  feet  high,  quite  a 
novelty  to  us  at  this  juncture.  On  returning  to  our  boats 
the  trudging  through  the  great  bog  was  so  fatiguing 
that  we  frequently  lay  down  to  rest;  our  sinews  became 
cramped,  and  for  my  part,  more  than  once  I  thought  I 
should  give  up  from  weariness.  One  man  killed  a  Falco 
columbarius,  in  the  finest  plumage  I  have  ever  seen.     I 

'  The  Ruffed  Grouse,  Bonasa  umbellus.  —  E.  C. 
VOL.  I,  —  26 


Iltlllllll  lllllllllllgl 


r^^      '      i. 


402 


AUDUBON 


heard  the  delightful  sor.g  of  the  Ruby-crowned  Wren 
again  and  again  ;  what  would  I  give  to  find  the  nest  of  this 
northern  Huimning-Bird  ?  We  found  the  Fox-colored 
Sparrow  in  full  song,  and  had  our  captain  been  up  to 
birds'  ways,  he  would  have  found  its  nest;  for  one  started 
from  his  feet,  and  doubtless  from  the  eggs,  as  she  flut- 
tered off  with  drooping  wings,  and  led  him  away  from  the 
spot,  which  could  not  again  be  found.  John  and  Co, 
found  an  island  with  upwards  of  two  hundred  nests  of  the 
Lams  canus}  all  with  eggs,  but  not  a  young  one  hatched. 
The  nests  were  placed  on  the  bare  rock;  formed  of  sea- 
weed, about  six  inches  in  diameter  within,  and  a  foot 
without;  some  were  much  thicker  and  larger  than  others; 
in  many  instances  only  a  foot  apart,  in  others  a  greater 
distance  was  found.  The  eggs  are  much  smaller  than 
those  oi  Lartis  marinus.     The  eggs  of  the  Cayenne  Tern,^ 

1  Common  Gull.  This  record  raises  an  interesting  question,  which  can 
hardly  be  settled  satisfactorily.  Larus  canus,  the  common  Gull  of  Eumpe, 
is  given  by  various  authors  in  Audubon's  time,  besides  himself,  as  a  bird  of 
the  Atlantic  coast  of  North  America,  from  Labrador  southward.  But  it  is 
not  known  as  such  to  ornithologists  of  the  present  day.  The  American 
Ornithologists'  Union  catalogues  L.  canus  as  merely  a  straggler  in  North 
America,  with  the  query,  "accidental  in  Labrador?"  In  his  Notes  on  the 
Ornithology  of  Labrador,  in  Proc.  Acad.  Nat.  Sci.,  Phila.  1861,  p.  246,  Dr. 
Coues  gives  Z.  delaioarensis,  the  Ring-billed  Gull,  three  specimens  of  which 
he  procured  at  Henley  Harbor,  Aug.  21,  i860.  These  were  birds  of  the 
year,  and  one  of  them,  afterward  sent  to  England,  was  identified  by  Mr, 
Howard  Saunders  as  Z.  canus  (P.  Z.  S.  1877,  p.  178;  Cat.  B.  Brit,  Mus., 
XXV.  1896,  p.  281).  This  would  seem  to  bear  out  Auduljon's  Journal; 
but  the  "  Common  American  Gull"  of  his  published  works  is  tiie  nnehe 
calls  Z,  zonorhynchus  (;.  e.,  L.  ddmoarensis),  and  on  p.  155  of  the  Birds  of 
Am.,  8vo  ed.,  he  gives  the  very  incident  here  narrated  in  his  Journal,  as 
pertaining  to  the  latter  species.  The  probabilities  are  that,  notwithitand- 
ing  Dr.  Coues'  finding  of  the  supposed  Z.  canus  in  Labrador,  the  whole 
Audubonian  record  really  belongs  to  L.  delawarcnsis.  —  E.  C. 

2  This  appears  to  be  an  error,  reflected  in  all  of  Audubon's  published 
works.  The  Cayenne  Tern  of  Audabon,  as  described  and  figured  by  him,  is 
Sterna  regia,  which  has  never  bee.i  known  to  occur  in  Labrador.  Auduioii 
never  knew  the  Caspian  Tern,  S.  tschets^rava,  and  it  is  believed  that  this  is 
the  species  which  he  saw  in  Labrador,  and  mistook  for  the  Cayenne  Tern 
—  as  he  might  easily  do.  See  Coues,  Birds  of  the  Northwest,  1874,  [> 
669,  where  the  case  is  noted.  —  E.  C. 


if^ 


THE  LABRADOR  JOURNAL 


403 


;iowned  Wren 
the  nest  of  this 
e    Fox-colored 
in  been  up  to 
for  one  started 
;gs,  as  she  flut- 
1  away  from  the 
John  and  Co, 
red  nests  of  the 
ng  one  hatched. 
;  formed  of  sea- 
hin,  and  a  foot 
•ger  than  others; 
others  a  greater 
ich  smaller  than 
e  Cayenne  Tern,'- 

ig  question,  which  can 
mtnon  Gull  of  Europe, 
es  himself,  as  a  bird  of 
r  soutiiward.    But  it  is 
It  day.    The  American 
y  a  straggler  in  North 
In  his  Notes  on  tht 
Fhila.  i86i,p.  246.  ■»'■ 
ree  specimens  of  which 
hese  were  birds  of  the 
was  identified  by  Mr. 
,78;  Cat.  15.  Bnt.Mus., 
at  AuduDon's  Journal; 
ed  works  is  the  one  he 
,  p.  155  of  the  Birds  of 

atedin  his  Journal, « 
are  that,  notwith^and- 
in  Labrador,  the  whole 
i.f.-E.C. 

of  Audubon's  publisher. 
Kl  and  figured  by  him,  1^ 
.  in  Labrador.  Audmo" 
t  is  believed  that  this  .• 
,k  for  the  Cayenne  Ter 
the  Northwest,  1874.  P 


were  also  found,  and  a  single  pair  of  those   remarkable 
birds,  which  could  not  be  approached.     Two  Ptarmigans 
were  killed ;  these  birds  have  no  whirring  of  the   wings, 
even  when  surprised ;  they  flew  at  the  gunners  in  defence 
of  the  young,  and  one  .vas  killed   with  a  gun-rod.     The 
instant  they  perceive  they   are  observed,  when  at  a  dis- 
tance, they  squat  or  lie  flat  on  the  moss,  when  it  is  almost 
impossible  to  see  them  unless  right  under  your  feet.     From 
the  top  of  a  high  rock  I  had  fine  view  of  the  most  exten- 
sive and  the  dreariest  wilderness  I  have  ever  beheld.       It 
chilled  the  heart  to  gaze  on  these  barren  lands  of  Labra- 
dor.    Indeed  I  now  dread  every  change  of  harbor,  so  horri- 
bly rugged  and  dangerous  is  the  whole  coast  and  country, 
especially  to  the  inexperienced  man  either  of  sea  or  land. 
The  mosquitoes,   many   species  of  horse-fly,   small  bees, 
and  black  gnats  filled  the  air;  the  frogs  croaked;  and  yet 
the  thermometer  was  not  high,  not  above   55°.     This  is 
one  of  the   wonders  of  this  extraordinary  country.     We 
have  returned  to  our  vessel,  wet,  shivering  with  cold,  tired, 
and  very  hungry.     During  our  absence  the  cook  caught 
some  fine  lobsters;  but  fourteen  men,  each  with  a  gun,  six 
of  which  were  double-barrelled,  searched  all  day  for  game, 
and  have  not  averaged  two  birds  apiece,  nineteen  being  all 
that  were  shot  to-day.     We  all  conclude  that  no  one  man 
could  provide  food  for  himself  without  extreme  difficulty. 
Some  animal  was  seen  at  a  great  distance,  so  far  indeed 
that  we  could  not  tell  whether  it  was  a  Wolf  or  a  Caribou. 
July  19.     So  cold,  rainy,  and  foggy  has  this  day  been 
that  no  one  went  out  shooting,  and  only  a  ramble  on  shore 
was  taken  by  way  of  escaping  the  motion  of  the  vessel, 
which  pitched  very  disagreeably,  the  wind  blowing  almost 
directly  in  our  harbor;  and  I  would  not  recommend  this 
anchorage  to  a  painter  naturalist,  as  Charles   Bonaparte 
calls  me.     I  have  drawn  two  Parus  hudsonicus,  and  this 
evening  went  on  shore  with  the  captain  for  exercise,  and 
enough  have  I  had.     We  climbed  the  rocks  and  followed 


^^mmmmmmm 


404 


AUDUBON 


from  one  to  another,  crossing  fissures,  holding  to  the  moss 
hand  and  foot  and  with  difficulty,  for  about  a  mile,  when 
suddenly   we   came   upon     the    deserted    mansion   of  a 
Labrador  sealer.     It  looked  snug  outside,  and  we  entered 
it.     It  was  formed  of  short  slabs,  all  very  well  greased  with 
seal  oil ;  an  oven  without  a  pipe,  a  salt-box  hung  on  a 
wooden  peg,  a  three-legged  stool,  and  a  wooden  box  of  a 
bedstead,  with  a  flour-barrel  containing  some  hundreds  of 
seine-floats,  and  an  old  Seal  seine,  completed  the  list  of 
goods  and  chattels.    Three  small  windows,  with  four  panes 
of  glass  each,  were  still  in  pretty  good  order,  and  so  was 
the  low  door,  which  moved  on  wooden  hinges,  for  which 
the  maker  has  received  no  patent,  I  '11  be  bound.    This 
cabin  made  of  hewn  logs,  brought  from  the  main,  was  well 
put  together,  about  twelve  feet   square,  well  roofed  with 
bark  of  birch  and  spruce,  thatched  with  moss,  and  every 
aperture    rendered    air-tight   with    oakum.      But  it  was 
deserted  and  abandoned  ;  the  Seals  are  all  caught,  and  the 
sealers  have  nought  to  do  here  now-a-days.     We  found  a 
pile  of  good  hard  wood  close  to  this  abode,  which  we  will 
have   removed    on   board    our    vessel    to-morrow.    I  dis- 
covered that  this  cabin  had  been  the  abode  of  two  French 
Canadians ;  first,  because  their  almanac,  written  with  chalk 
on  one  of  the  logs,  was  in  French;  and  next,  the  writing 
was   in  two  very  dififerent  styles.     As  we  returned  to  our 
vessel  I  paused  several  times  to  contemplate  the  raging 
waves  breaking  on  the  stubborn,  precipitous  rocks  beneath 
us,  and  thought  how  dreadful  they  would  prove  to  any  one 
who  should  be  wrecked  on  so  inhospitable  a  shore.    No 
vessel,  the  captain  assured   me,   could  stand  the  sea  we 
gazed  upon  at  that  moment,  and  I  fully  believed  him,  for 
the   surge   dashed    forty  feet   or  more   high  against  the 
precipitous  rocks.     The  Ravens  flew  above  us,  and  a  few 
Gulls  beat  to  windward  by  dint  of  superior  sailing;  the 
horizon  was  hid  by  fog,  so  thick  there,  and  on  the  crest  of  j 
the  island,  that  it  looked  like  dense  smoke.    Though 


THE  LABRADOR  JOURNAL 


405 


[ig  to  the  moss 

t  a  mile,  when 

mansion   of  a 

and  we  entered 

;11  greased  with 

box  hung  on  a 

•ooden  box  of  a 

)me  hundreds  of 

leted  the  list  of 

,  with  four  panes 

rder,  and  so  was 

linges,  for  which 

be  bound.    This 

he  main,  was  well 

well  roofed  with 
moss,  and  every 

im.      But  it  was 

dl  caught,  and  the 

ays.     We  found  a 

ode,  which  we  will 

Lmorrow.    I  d'S- 

ode  of  two  French 
written  with  chalk 
next,  the  writing 

ve  returned  to  our 

emplate  the  raging 

itous  rocks  beneath 
Id  prove  to  any  one 
table  a  shore,  ^'o 
i  stand  the  sea  ye 
ly  believed  him,  lot    :, 

c   high  against  tne 

above  us,  and  a  \^ 

superior  sailing;  ^ 

,^  and  on  the  crest  ot 

smoke.    Though  1 


wore  thick  mittens  and  very  heavy  clothing,  I  felt  chilly 
with  the  cold.  John's  violin  notes  carry  my  thoughts  far, 
far  from  Labrador,  I  assure  thee. 

July  20.     Labrador  deserves  credit  for  one  fine  day ! 
To-day  has  been  calm,  warm,  and  actually  such  a  day  as 
one  might  expect  in  the  Pvliddlc  States  about  the  month  of 
May.     I  drew  from  half-past  three  till  ten  this  morning. 
The  young  men  went  off  early,  and  the  captain  and  myself 
went  to  the  island  next  to  us,  but  saw  few  birds :   a  Brown 
Lark,  some  Gulls,  and  the  two  White-crowned  Buntings. 
In  some  small  bays  which  we  passed  we  found  the  stones 
thrown  up  by  the  sea  in  immense  numbers,  and  of  enormous 
size.    These  stones  I  now  think  are  probably  brought  on 
shore  in  the  masses  of  ice  during  the  winter  storms.     These 
icebergs,  then  melting  and  breaking  up,  leave  these  enor- 
mous pebble-shaped  stones,  from  ten  to  one  hundred  feet 
deep.    When  I  returned  to  my  drawing  the  captain  went 
fishing,  and  caught  thirty-seven  cod  in  less  than  an  hour. 
The  wind  rose  towards  evening,  and  the  boats  did  not  get 
in  till  nine  o'clock,   and  much  anxiety  did  I   feel  about 
them.     Coolidge  is  an  excellent  sailor,  and  John  too,  for 
that  matter,  but  very  venturesome ;  and  Lincoln  equally  so. 
The  chase,  as  usual,  poor;  two  Canadian  Grouse  in  moult, 
—  these   do   moult   earlier  than   the   Willow    Grouse,'  — 
some  White-throated  Sparrows,  Yellow-rump  Warblers,  the 
Green  Black-cap  Flycatcher,  the  small  Wood  Pewee  (?). 
I  think  this  a  new  species,  but  cannot  swear  to  it^     The 

^  Or  Willow  Ptarmigan,  Lagopiis  albus  —  the  same  that  Audubon  has 
already  spoken  of  procuring  and  drawing ;  but  this  is  the  first  mention  he 
makes  which  enables  us  to  judge  which  of  two  species  occurring  in  Labrador 
he  had.    The  other  is  the  Rock  Grouse,  or  Ptarmigan,  L.  rupestris.  —  E.  C. 

^  This  is  the  bird  which  Audubon  afterward  identified  with  Tyrannula 
nchardsonii  of  Swainson,  Fn.,  Kor.-Am.,  ii.,  1831,  p.  146,  pi.  46,  lower  fig.,  and 
published  under  the  name  of  the  Short-iegged  Pewee  or  Pewit  Fly-catcher, 
Miisckapa  phxbe,  in  Om.  Biogr.,  v.  p.  299,  pi.  434  ;  B.  Am.,  8vo  ed.,  i.  p. 
219.pl-  61.  The  species  is  now  well  known  as  the  Western  Wood  Pewee, 
Contopus  richardsoni;  but  it  has  never  since  Audubon's  time  been  authen- 
ticated as  a  bird  of  Labrador.    Audubon  was  of  course  perfectly  familiar 


4o6 


AUDUBON 


i 

young  of  the  Tawny  Thrush  were  seen  with  the  mother 
ahnost  full-grown.  All  the  party  arc  very  tired,  especially 
Ingalls,  who  was  swamped  up  to  his  arm-pits  and  was 
pulled  out  by  his  two  companions;  tired  as  they  are,  they 
have  yet  energy  to  eat  tremendously. 

July  21.  I  write  now  from  a  harbor  which  has  no  name, 
for  we  have  mistaken  it  for  the  right  one,  which  lies  two 
miles  east  of  this ;  but  it  matters  little,  for  the  coast  of 
Labrador  is  all  alike  comfortless,  cold  and  foggy,  yet 
grand.  We  left  Little  Macatine  at  five  this  morning, 
with  a  stiff  southwest  breeze,  and  by  ten  our  anchor  was 
dropped  here.  We  passed  Captain  Bayfield  and  his  two 
boats  engaged  in  the  survey  of  the  coast.  We  have  been 
on  shore ;  no  birds  but  about  a  hundred  Eider  Ducks  and 
Red-breasted  Mergansers  in  the  inner  bay,  with  their  broods 
all  affrighted  as  our  boats  approached.  Returning  on 
board,  found  Captain  Bayfield  and  his  lieutenants,  who 
remained  to  dine  with  us.  They  were  short  of  provisions, 
and  we  gave  them  a  barrel  of  ship-bread,  and  seventy 
pounds  of  beef.  I  presented  the  captain  witli  a  ham, 
with  which  he  went  off  to  their  camp  on  some  rocks  not 
far  distant.  This  evening  we  paid  him  a  visit;  he  and  his 
men  are  encamped  in  great  comfort.  The  tea-things  were 
yet  arranged  on  the  iron-bound  bed,  the  trunks  served  as 
seats,  and  the  sail-cloth  clothes-bags  as  pillows.  The  moss 
was  covered  with  a  large  tarred  cloth,  and  neither  wind 
nor  damp  was  admitted.  I  gazed  on  the  camp  with  much 
pleasure,  and  it  was  a  great  enjoyment  to  be  with  men  of 
education  and  refined  manners,  such  as  are  these  officers  of 
the  Royal  Navy ;  it  was  indeed  a  treat.  We  talked  of  the 
country  where  we  were,  of  the  beings  best  fitted  to  live  and 
prosper  here,  not  only  of  our  species,  but  of  all  species, 

with  the  common  Wood  Pewee,  Contopus  virens,  and  with  the  Penit  Fly- 
catcher, Sayornis  phwbc.  We  can  hardly  imagine  him  mistaken  regarding 
the  identity  of  either  of  these  familiar  birds  ;  yet  there  is  something  about 
this  Labrador  record  of  supposed  C.  richardsoni  which  has  never  wen 
satisfactorily  explained.  —  E.  G 


THE  LABRADOR  JOURNAL 


407 


with  the  mother, 

y  tired,  especially 

irm-pits  and  was 

as  they  are,  they 

lich  has  no  name, 
le,  which  lies  two 
for  the  coast  of 
i  and   foggy,  yet 
ve   this   morning, 
1  our  anchor  was 
afield  and  his  two 
t.     We  have  been 
Eider  Ducks  and 
•,  with  their  broods 
d.      Returning  on 
i   Heutenants,  who 
hort  of  provisions. 
)read,  and  seventy 
ftain   witl^  a  ham, 
n  some  rocks  not 
visit ;  he  and  his 
he  tea-things  were 
e  trunks  served  as 
illows.    The  moss 
,  and  neither  wind 
c  camp  with  much 
to  be  with  men  of 
ire  these  officers  of 
We  talked  of  the 
St  fitted  to  live  and 
but  of  all  species, 

,nd  with  the  Pewit  Fiy- 
him  mistaken  regarding 
here  is  something  about 
which  has  never  been 


and  also  of  the  enormous  destruction  of  everything  here, 
except  the  rocks ;  the  aborigines  themselves  melting  away 
before  the  encroachments  of  the  white  man,  who  looks 
without  pity  upon  the  decrease  of  the  devoted  Indian,  from 
whom  he  rifles  home,  food,  clothing,  and  life.  For  as  the 
Deer,  the  Caribou,  and  all  other  game  is  killed  for  the 
dollar  which  its  skin  brings  in,  the  Indian  must  search  in 
vain  over  the  devastated  country  for  that  on  which  he  is 
accustomed  to  feed,  till,  worn  out  by  sorrow,  despair,  and 
want,  he  either  goes  far  from  his  early  haunts  to  others, 
which  in  time  will  be  similarly  invaded,  or  he  lies  on  the 
rocky  seashore  and  dies.  We  are  often  told  rum  kills  the 
Indian  ;  I  think  not ;  it  is  oftener  the  want  of  food,  the  loss  of 
hope  as  he  loses  sight  of  all  that  was  once  abundant,  before 
the  white  man  intruded  on  his  land  and  killed  off  the  wild 
quadrupeds  and  birds  with  which  he  has  fed  and  clothed 
himself  since  his  creation.  Nature  herself  seems  perish- 
ing. Labrador  must  shortly  be  depeopled,  not  only  of 
aboriginal  man,  but  of  all  else  having  life,  owing  to  man's 
cupidity.  When  no  more  fish,  no  more  game,  no  more 
birds  exist  on  her  hills,  along  her  coasts,  and  in  her  rivers, 
then  she  will  be  abandoned  and  deserted  like  a  worn-out 
field. 

July  22.  At  six  this  morning.  Captain  Bayfield  and 
Lieutenant  Bowen  came  alongside  in  their  respective  boats 
to  bid  us  farewell,  being  bound  westward  to  the  "  Gulnare." 
We  embarked  in  three  boats  and  proceeded  to  examine  a 
small  harbor  about  a  mile  east,  where  we  found  a  whaling 
schooner  of  fifty-five  tons  from  Cape  Gaspe  in  T' ew  Bruns- 
wick. When  we  reached  it  we  found  the  men  employed 
at  boiling  blubber  in  what,  to  me,  resembled  sugar  boilers. 
The  blubber  lay  heaped  on  the  shore  in  chunks  of  six 
to  twenty  pounds,  and  looked  filthy  enough.  The  cap- 
tam,  or  owner,  of  the  vessel  appeared  to  be  a  good,  sensi- 
ble man  of  that  class,  and  cut  off  for  me  some  strips  of 
the  skin  of  the  whale  from  under  the  throat,  with  large 


tfi    ■'  X%' 


408 


A  UDUBON 


3W' 


and  curious  barnacles  attached  to  it.  They  had  struck 
four  whales,  of  which  three  had  sunk  and  were  lost ;  this, 
I  was  told,  was  a  very  rare  occurrence.  We  found  at  this 
place  a  French  Canadian,  a  Seal-catcher,  who  gave  nic 
the  following  information.  This  portion  of  Labrador  is 
free  to  any  one  to  settle  on,  and  he  and  another  man  had 
erected  a  small  cabin,  have  Seal-nets,  and  traps  to  catch 
Foxes,  and  guns  to  shoot  Bears  and  Wolves.  They  carry 
their  quarry  to  Quebec,  receive  fifty  cents  per  gallon  for 
Seal  oil,  and  from  three  to  five  guineas  for  Black  and 
Silver-Fox  skins,  and  other  furs  in  proportion.  From 
November  till  spring  they  kill  Seals  in  great  numbers. 
Two  thousand  five  hundred  were  killed  by  seventeen  men 
in  three  days ;  this  great  feat  was  done  with  short  sticks, 
each  Seal  being  killed  with  a  single  blow  on  the  snout, 
while  resting  on  the  edges  of  the  field  ice.  The  Seals  are 
carried  to  the  camp  on  sledges  drawn  by  Esquimaux  dogs, 
that  are  so  well  trained  that  on  reaching  home  they  push 
the  Seals  off  the  sledge  with  their  noses,  and  return  to  the 
hunters  with  despatch.  (Remember,  my  Lucy,  this  is 
hearsay.)  At  other  times  the  Seals  are  driven  into  nets 
one  after  another,  until  the  poor  animals  become  so  ham- 
pered and  confined  that,  the  gun  being  used,  they  are 
easily  and  quickly  despatched.  He  showed  me  a  spot 
within  a  few  yards  of  his  cabin  where,  last  winter,  he  caught 
six  Silver-gray  Foxes ;  these  had  gone  to  Quebec  with  his 
partner,  who  was  daily  expected.  Bears  and  Caribous 
abound  during  winter,  as  well  as  Wolves,  Hares,  and  Porcu- 
pines. The  Hare  (I  suppose  the  Northern  one)  is  brown 
at  this  season,  and  white  in  winter;  the  Wolves  are  mostly 
of  a  dun  color,  very  ferocious  and  daring.  A  pack  of 
about  thirty  followed  a  man  to  his  cabin,  and  have  more 
than  once  killed  his  dogs  at  his  very  door.  I  was  the 
more  surprised  at  this,  as  the  dogs  he  had  were  as  large 
as  any  Wolves  I  have  ever  seen.  These  dogs  are  extremely 
tractable;  so  much  so  that,  when  harnessed  to  a  sledge, the 


THE  LABRADOR  JOURNAL 


409 


leader  starts  at  the  word  of  command,  and  tlie  whole  pack 
gallops  off  swiftly  enough  to  convey  a  man  sixty  miles  in 
the  course  of  seven  or  eight  hours.  They  howl  like 
Wolves,  and  are  not  at  all  like  our  common  dogs.  They 
were  extremely  gentle,  came  to  us,  jumped  on  us,  and 
caressed  us,  as  if  we  were  old  acquaintances.  They  do 
not  take  to  the  water,  and  are  only  fitted  for  drawing 
sledges  and  chasing  Caribou.  They  arc  the  only  dogs 
which  at  all  equal  the  Caribou  in  speed.  As  soon  as 
winter's  storms  and  thick  ice  close  the  harbors  and  the 
spaces  between  the  mainland  and  the  islands,  the  Caribous 
are  seen  moving  in  great  gangs,  first  to  the  islands,  where, 
the  snow  being  more  likely  to  be  drifted,  the  animal  finds 
places  where  the  snow  has  blown  away,  and  he  can  more 
easily  reach  the  moss,  which  at  this  season  is  its  only 
food.  As  the  season  increases  in  severity,  the  Caribous 
follow  a  due  northwestern  direction,  and  gradually  reach 
a  comparatively  milder  climate ;  but  nevertheless,  on  their 
return  in  March  and  April,  which  return  is  as  regular  as 
the  migration  of  birds,  they  are  so  poor  and  emaciated 
that  the  white  man  himself  takes  pity  on  them,  and  does 
not  kill  them.  (Merciful  beings,  who  spare  life  when  the 
flesh  is  off  the  bones,  and  no  market  for  the  bones  is 
at  hand.)  The  Otter  is  tolerably  abundant;  these  are 
principally  trapped  at  the  foot  of  the  waterfalls  to  which 
they  resort,  these  places  being  the  latest  to  freeze,  and  the 
first  to  thaw.  The  Marten  and  the  Sable  are  caught,  but 
are  by  no  means  abundant,  and  every  winter  makes  a 
deep  impression  on  beast  as  well  as  on  man.  These 
Frenchmen  receive  their  supplies  from  Quebec,  where  they 
send  their  furs  and  oil.  At  this  time,  which  the  man  here 
calls  "  the  idle  time,"  he  lolls  about  his  cabin,  lies  in  the 
sunshine  like  a  Seal,  eats,  drinks,  and  sleeps  his  life  away, 
careless  of  all  the  world,  and  the  world,  no  doubt,  careless 
of  him.  His  dogs  are  his  only  companions  until  his  part- 
ner's return,  who,  for  all   I   know,  is  not  himself  better 


\  ■;.  \ 


410 


AUDUBON 


company  than  a  dog.  They  have  phiced  their  very  small 
cabin  in  a  delightful  situation,  under  the  protection  of  an 
island,  on  the  southwestern  side  of  the  main  shore,  where  I 
was  surprised  to  find  the  atmosphere  quite  warm,  and  the 
vegetation  actually  rank ;  for  I  saw  plants  with  leaves  fully 
a  foot  in  breadth,  and  grasses  three  feet  high.  The  birds 
had  observed  the  natural  advantages  of  this  little  paradise, 
for  here  we  found  the  musical  Winter  Wren  in  full  song, 
the  first  time  in  Labrador,  the  White-crowned  Sparrow, 
or  Bunting,  singing  melodiously  from  every  bush,  the  Fox- 
tail Sparrow,  the  Black-cap  Warbler,  the  Shore  Lark  nest- 
ing, but  too  cunning  for  us  ;  the  White-throated  Sparrow 
and  a  Peregrine  Falcon,  besides  about  half  a  dozen  of 
Lincoln's  Finch.  This  afternoon  the  wind  has  been  blow- 
ing a  tremendous  gale;  our  anchors  have  dragged  with 
sixty  fathoms  of  chain  out.  Yet  one  of  the  whaler's  boats 
came  to  us  with  six  men,  who  wished  to  see  my  drawings, 
and  I  gratified  them  willingly  ;  they,  in  return,  have  prom- 
ised to  let  me  see  a  v/hale  before  cut  up,  if  they  should 
catch  one  ere  we  leave  this  place  for  Bras  d'Or.  Crows 
are  not  abundant  here ;  the  Ravens  equal  them  in  number, 
and  Peregrine  Falcons  are  more  numerous.  The  horse- 
flies are  so  bad  that  they  drove  our  young  men  on  board. 
Jidy  23.  We  visited  to-day  the  Seal  establishment  of 
a  Scotchman,  Samuel  Robertson,  situated  on  what  he  calls 
Sparr  Point,  about  six  miles  east  of  our  anchorage.  He 
received  us  politely,  addressed  me  by  name,  and  told  me 
th  )♦•  he  had  received  intimation  of  my  being  on  a  vessel 
bound  to  this  country,  through  the  English  and  Canadian 
newspapers.  This  man  has  resided  here  twenty  years, 
married  a  Labrador  lady,  daughter  of  a  Monsieur  Cheva- 
lier of  Bras  d'Or,  a  good-looking  woman,  and  has  six 
children.  His  house  is  comfortable,  and  in  a  little  garden! 
he  raises  a  few  potatoes,  turnips,  and  other  vegetables. 
He  appears  to  be  lord  of  these  parts  and  quite  contented 
with  his  lot.     He  told  me  his  profits  la.st  year  amounted 


THE  LABRADOR  JOURNAL 


411 


to  X600.     He  will  not  trade  with  the  Indians,  of  whom  we 
saw  about  twenty,  of  the  Montagnais  tribes,  and  employs 
only  white  serving-men.     His  Seal-oil  tubs  were  full,  and 
he  was  then  engaged  in  loading  two  schooners  for  Quebec 
with  that  article.     I  bought  from  him  the  skin  of  a  Cross 
Fox  for  three  dollars.     He  complained  of  the  American 
fishermen  very  much,  told  us  they  often  acted  as  badly  as 
pirates  towards    the  Indians,  the  white    settlers,   and  the 
eggers,  all  of  whom  have  been  more  than  once  obliged  to 
retaliate,  when    bloody  encounters   have  been  the  result. 
He  assured  me  he  had  seen  a  fisherman's  crew  kill  thou- 
sands of  Guillemots   in  the  course   of  a   day,  pluck  the 
feathers  from  the  breasts,  and  throw  the  bodies  into  the 
sea.     He  also  told  me  that  during  mild  winters  his  little 
harbor  is  covered  with  pure  white  Gulls  (the  Silvery),  but 
that  all  leave    at  the   first  appearance    of  spring.      The 
travelling  here  is  effected  altogether  on  the  snow-covered 
ice,  by  means  of  sledges  and  Esquimaux  dogs,  of  which 
Mr.  Robertson  keeps  a  famous  pack.     With  them,  at  the 
rate  of  about  six  miles  an  hour,  he  proceeds  to  Bras  d'Or 
seventy-five  miles,  with  his  wife  and  six   children,  in   one 
sledge  drawn  by  ten  dogs.     Fifteen  miles   north  of  this 
place,  he  says,  begins  a  lake  represented  by  the  Indians 
as  four  hundred  miles  long  by  one  hundred  broad.     This 
sea-like  lake  is  at  times  as  rough  as  the  ocean  in  a  storm ; 
it   abounds   with    Wild  Geese,    and  the  water-fowl  breed 
on  its  margins  by  millions.     We  have  had  a  fine  day,  but 
very  windy;  Mr.  R.  says  this  July  has  been  a  remarkable 
one  for  rough  weather.     The   Caribou   flies  have  driven 
the  hunters   on  board ;  Tom   Lincoln,  who   is  especially 
attacked  by  them,  was  actually  covered   with  blood,  and 
looked  as  if  he  had  had  a  gouging  fight  with  some  rough 
Kentuckians.     Mr.  R.'s  newspapers  tell  of  the  ravages  of 
cholera    in   the   south   and  west,    of  the  indisposition  of 
General  Jackson  at  the  Tremont  House,  Boston,  etc. ;  thus 
even  here  the  news  circulates  now  and  then.     The  mos- 


412 


AUDUBON 


i 


quitoes  trouble  me  so  much  that  in  driving  them  away  I 
bespatter  my  paper  with  ink,  as  thou  secst,  God  bless 
thee !     Good-night. 

July  24-     The  CJiaradriits  scmipalmatus  breeds  on  the 
tops  or  sides  of  the  high  hills,  and  amid  the  moss  of  this 
country.      I  have  not  found  the  nest,  but  have  been  so 
very  near  the  spot  where  it  undoubtedly  was,   that  the 
female   has   moved   before   me,   trailing   her   wings  and 
spreading  her  tail  to  draw  me  away ;  uttering  a  plaintive 
note,  the  purpose  of  which  I  easily  conceive.     The  Shore 
Lark  has  served  us  the  same  way ;  that  nest  must  also  be 
placed  amid  the  deep  mosses,  over  which  these  beautiful 
birds  run  as  nimbly  as  can  be  imagined.     They  have  the 
power  of  giving  two  notes,   so  very  different  from  each 
other  that  a  person  not  seeing  the  bird  would  be  inclined 
to  believe  that  two  birds  of  different  species  were  at  hand. 
Often  after  these  notes  comes  a  sweet  trill;  all  these  I 
have  thought  were  in  intimation  of  danger,  and  with  the 
wish  to  induce  the  sitting  mate  to  lie  quiet  and  silent 
Tom  Lincoln,  John,  and  I  went  on  shore  after  two  Bears, 
which  I  heard  distinctly,  but  they  eluded  our  pursuit  by 
swimming  from  an  island  to  the  main  land.     Coolidge's 
party  went  to  the  Murre  Rocks,  where  the  Guillemots 
breed,  and  brought  about  fifteen  hundred  eggs.      Shat- 
tuck  killed  two  Gannets  with  a  stick ;   they  could  have 
done  the  same  with  thousands  of  Guillemots  when  they 
landed ;  the  birds  scrambled  off  in  such  a  hurried,  con- 
fused,  and   frightened  manner  as  to  render  them  what 
Charles  Bonaparte  calls  stupid,  and  they  were  so  terri- 
fied they  could  scarcely  take  to  wing.      The  island  was 
literally  covered  with  eggs,  dung,  and  feathers,  and  smelt 
so  shockingly  that  Ingalls  and  Coolidge  were  quite  sick. 
Coolidge  killed  a  White-winged  Crossbill  on  these  Murre 
rocks;  for  several  weeks  we  have  seen  these  birds  pass 
over  us,  but  have  found  none  anywhere  on  shore.    We 
have  had  a  beautiful  day,  and  would  have  sailed  for  Bras 


Iig  thcni  away  I 
lecst,  God  bless 


'is  breeds  on  the 
the  moss  of  this 
.it  have  been  so 
ly  was,   that  the 
her   wings  and 
ering  a  plaintive 
ive.     The  Shore 
est  must  also  be 
these  beautiful 
They  have  the 
Terent  from  each 
vould  be  inclined 
cies  were  at  hand, 
trill;  all  these  I 
ger,  and  with  the 
quiet  and  silent. 
re  after  two  Bears, 
!ed  our  pursuit  by 
land.     Coolidge's 
re  the  Guillemots 
Ired  eggs.      Shat- 
;   they  could  have 
lemots  when  they 
ch  a  hurried,  con- 
render  them  what 
ley   were  so  terri- 
The  island  was 
'eathcrs,  and  smelt 
je  were  quite  sick. 
lill  on  these  Murre 
1  these  birds  pass 
re  on  shore.    We 
ive  sailed  for  Bi^as 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


'^'^  Mr  ^ 


1.0 


■AilM    |2.5 


I.I    ?.•«  1^ 


L25  1 1.4 


1.6 


HiotDgraphic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


33  WIST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  USSO 

(716)  •72-4S03 


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ll 

ll 

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H 

^  *  > 


d'Or,  but 
might  ha 

sea  and  t 
was  as  tr 
before  fiv 
to  come  t 
but  after  s 
blew,  with 
out  of  our 
of  Bonne 
this  harbo 
at  all,  our 
ceed  to  Bra 
that  we  ha 
sizes  and  fo 
a  frightful 
tion  of  Gan' 
day  feeding 
had  three 
their  action 
twenty  yardi 
fully  a  hund 
in  head-fore 
surface  so  s 
fish  with  wii 
mouth  of  Bi 
Our  pilot  n 
our  ensign,  i 
ton  boat  an( 
dezvous  of 
coast  for  co 
hundred  and 
a  few  pickas 
portions  of 
about  this  h 


I 


•  w^ 


THE  LABRADOR  JOURNAL 


413 


d'Or,  but  our  anchor  stuck  into  a  rock,  and  just  as  we 
might  have  sailed,  a  heavy  fog  came  on,  so  here  we  are. 
July  26.     I  did  not  write  last  night  because  we  were  at 
sea  and  the  motion  was  too  disagreeable,  and  my  mind 
was  as  troubled  as  the  ocean.      We  left  Baie  de  Portage 
before  five  in  the  morning,  with  a  good  breeze,  intending 
to  come  to  at  Chevalier's  settlement,  forty-seven  miles; 
but  after  sailing  thirty,  the  wind  failed  us,  it  rained  and 
blew,  with  a  tremendous  sea  which  almost  shook  the  masts 
out  of  our  good  vessel,  and  about  eight  we  were  abreast 
of  Bonne  Espdrance;  but  as  our  pilot  knew  as  much  of 
this  harbor  as  he  did  of  the  others,  which  means  nothing 
at  all,  our  captain  thought  prudent  to  stand  off  and  pro- 
ceed to  Bras  d'Or.     The  coast  we  have  followed  is  like 
that  we  have  hitherto  seen,  crowded  with  islands  of  all 
sizes  and  forms,  against  which  the  raging  waves  break  in 
a  frightful  manner.     We  saw  few  birds,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  Gannets,  which  were  soaring  about  us  most  of  the 
day  feeding  on  capelings,  of  wnich  there  were  myriads.    I 
had  three  Uria  troile  thrown  overboard  alive  to  observe 
their  actions.      Two  fluttered  on  top  of  the  water  for 
twenty  yards  or  so,  then  dove,  and  did  not  rise  again  for 
fully  a  hundred  yards  from  the  vessel.     The  third  went 
in  head-foremost,  like  a  man  diving,  and  swam  under  the 
surface  so  smoothly  and  so  rapidly  that  it  looked  like  a 
fish  with  wings.     At  daylight  we  found  ourselves  at  the 
mouth  of  Bras  d'Or  harbor,  where  we  are  snugly  moored. 
Our  pilot  not  knowing  a  foot  of  the  ground,  we  hoisted 
our  ensign,  and  Captain  Billings  came  to  us  in  his  Hamp- 
ton boat  and  piloted  us  in.     Bras  d'Or  is  the  grand  ren- 
dezvous of  almost  all   the  fishermen  that  resort  to  this 
coast  for  codfish.     We  found  here  a  flotilla  of  about  one 
hundred  and  fifty  sail,  principally  fore-and-aft  schooners, 
a  few  pickaxes,  etc.,  mostly  from  Halifax  and  the  eastern 
portions  of  the  United  States.     There  was  a  life  and  stir 
about  this  harbor  which  surprised  us  after  so  many  weeks 


% 


■ 


414 


A  [/DC/BON 


of  wilderness  and  loneliness  —  the  boats  moving  to  and 
fro,  going  after  fish,  and  returning  loaded  to  the  gun- 
wales, others  with  seines,  others  with  capelings  for  bait. 
A  hundred  or  more  were  anchored  out  about  a  mile  from 
us,  hauling  the  poor  codfish  by  thousands;  hundreds  of 
men  engaged  at  cleaning  and  salting,  their  low  jokes  and 
songs  resembling  those  of  the  Billingsgate  gentry.  On 
entering  the  port  I  observed  a  large  flock  of  small  Gulls, 
which  species  I  could  not  ascertain,  also  Lestris  of  two 
species,  one  small  and  one  large.  As  soon  as  breakfast 
was  over,  the  young  men  went  ashore  to  visit  Mr.  Jones, 
the  owner  of  the  Seal-fishing  establishment  here.  He  re- 
ceived them  well  —  a  rough,  brown  Nova  Scotia  man,  the 
lord  of  this  portion  of  Labrador  —  and  he  gave  John  and 
the  others  a  good  deal  of  information.  Four  or  five  spe- 
cies of  Grouse,  the  Velvet  Duck,  the  Anas  glacialis,^  and 
Fuligtda  histrionica,^  the  Wild  Goose,  and  others  breed  in 
the  swampy  deserts  at  the  head  waters  of  the  rivers,  and 
around  the  edges  of  the  lakes  and  ponds  which  everywhere 
abound.  He  also  knew  of  my  coming.  John  and  Cool- 
idge  joined  parties  and  brought  me  eight  Red-polls,  Frin- 
gilla  linaria,  old  and  young,  which  I  will  draw  to-morrow. 
Query,  is  it  the  same  which  is  found  in  Europe.^  Their 
note  resembles  that  of  the  Siskin ;  their  flight  that  of  the 
Siskin  and  Linnet  combined.  The  young  were  as  large  as 
the  old,  and  could  fly  a  mile  at  a  stretch ;  they  resort  to 
low  bushes  along  the  edges  of  ponds  and  brooks ;  the  hunt- 
ers saw  more  than  they  shot.  They  brought  also  Savannah 
Finches,  and  White-crowned  Sparrows.  They  saw  a  fine 
female  Tetrao  canadensis,  not  quite  so  gray  as  the  last; 
the  young  flew  well  and  alighted  on  trees  and  bushes,  and 
John  would  not  allow  any  of  them  to  be  shot,  they  were  so 
trusting.  They  saw  a  Willow  Grouse,  which  at  sight  of 
them,  though  at  some  distance,  flew  off  and  flew  far;  on 

*  Harelda  hiemalis,  the  Old  Squaw  or  Long-Tailed  Duck.  —  E.  C. 
'  Histrionicus  histrioricus,  the  Harlequin  Duck.  — £.  C. 


"v.  W\ 


THE  LABRADOR  JOURNAL 


4IS 


ang  to  and 

;o  the  gun- 

gs  for  bait. 

a  mile  from 

hundreds  of 

)W  jokes  and 

gentry.    On 
small  Gulls, 

,estns  of  two 
as  breakfast 

it  Mr.  Jones, 

here.     He  re- 

:otiaman,  the 

rave  John  and 

)ur  or  five  spe- 

-glacialis}  ^\i^ 

others  breed  in 

the  rivers,  and 

lich  everywhere 
ohn  and  Cool- 
.ed-poUs,  Fnn- 

[raw  to-morrow. 
Europe?  Their 
ight  that  of  the 

[were  as  large  as 

,  they  resort  to 
■ooks;  the  hunt- 
it  also  Savannah 
They  saw  a  fine 
|ray  as  the  last; 
and  bushes,  and 
iot,  they  were  so 
rhich  at  sight  of 
land  flew  far;  on 

I  Duck.  —  E.  C. 
l-E.C. 


being  started  again,  flew  again  to  a  great  distance  with 
a  loud,  cackling  note,  but  no  whirr  of  the  wings.     They 
were  within  three  hundred  yards  of  an  Eagle,  which,  from 
its  dark  color  and  enormous  size  and  extent  of  wings,  they 
took  to  be  a  female  Washington  Eagle.*     I  have  made 
many  inquiries,  but  every  one  tells  me  Eagles  are  most 
rare.     It  sailed  away  over  the  hills  slowly  ard  like  a  Vul- 
ture.     After  drawing  two  figures  of  the  female  White- 
winged  Crossbill,  I  paid  a  visit  to  the  country  seat  of  Mr. 
Jones.'    The  snow  is  still  to  be  seen  in  patches  on  every 
hill  around  us ;  the  borders  of  the  water  courses  are  edged 
with  grasses  and  weeds  as  rank  of  growth  as  may  be  seen 
in  the  Middle  States  in  like  situations.     I  saw  a  small 
brook  filled  with  fine  trout;  but  what  pleased  me  best,  I 
found  a  nest  of  the  Shore  Lark;  it  was  embedded  in  moss 
so  much  the  color  of  the  birds,  that  when  these  sit  on  it, 
it  is  next  to  impossible  to  observe  them ;  it  was  buried  to 
its  full  depth,  about  seven  inches,  —  composed  outwardly 
of  mosses  of  different  sorts ;  within,  fine  grass  circularly 
arranged,  and  mixed  with  many  large,  soft  Duck  feathers. 
These  birds  breed  on  high  table-lands,  one  pair  to  a  cer- 
tain district.     The  place  where  I  found  the  nest  was  so 
arid,  poor  and  rocky  that  nothing  grew  there.    We  see  the 
high  mountains  of  Newfoundland,  the  summits,  at  present, 
far  above  the  clouds.     Two  weeks  since,  the  ice  filled  the 
very  harbor  where  we  now  are,  and  not  a  vessel  could 
approach ;  since  then  the  ice  has  sunk,  and  none  is  to  be 
seen  far  or  near. 

July  S7.  It  has  blown  a  tremendous  gale  the  whole 
day;  fortunately  I  had  two  Fringilia  linaria  to  draw. 
The  adult  male  alone  possesses  those  rich  colors  on  the 
breast ;  the  female  has  only  the  front  head  crimson.    They 

•  The  Washington  Eagle,  or  "  Bird  of  Washington,"  of  Audubon's  works, 
ii  based  upon  the  young  Bald  Eagle,  Haliaetus  leucocephaluis.  The  bird 
here  noted  may  have  been  either  this  species,  or  the  Aguila  chrysaetus. 
-E.C. 

'  See  Episode  "  A  Labrador  Squatter." 


W: 


:!"?, 


ii$ 


416 


AUDUBON 


resemble  the  Cross-bills,  notwithstanding  Bonaparte,  Nut. 
tall,  and  others  to  the  contrary.  John  kept  me  company 
and  skinned  fourteen  small  birds.  Mr.  Jones  dined  with 
us,  after  which  the  captain  and  the  rest  of  our  party  went 
off  through  the  storm  to  Blanc  Sablons,  four  miles  dis- 
tant. This  name  is  turned  into  "  Nancy  Belong  "  by  the 
fishermen,  who  certainly  tell  very  strange  tales  respect- 
ing this  country.  Mr.  Jones  entertained  us  by  his  account 
of  travelling  with  dogs  during  winter.  They  are  har- 
nessed, he  says,  with  a  leather  collar,  a  belly  and  back 
band,  through  the  upper  part  of  which  passes  the  line  of 
sealskin,  which  is  attached  to  the  sledge,  and  acts  for  a 
rein  as  well  as  a  trace.  An  odd  number  of  dogs  always 
form  the  gang,  from  seven  up,  according  to  the  distance  of 
the  journey,  or  the  weight  of  the  load ;  each  dog  is  esti- 
mated to  draw  two  hundred  pounds,  at  a  rate  of  five  or  six 
miles  an  hour.  The  leader  is  always  a  well-broken  dog, 
and  is  placed  ahead  of  the  pack  with  a  draught-line  of  from 
six  to  ten  fathoms'  length,  and  the  rest  with  gradually 
shorter  ones,  to  the  last,  which  is  about  eight  feet  from 
the  sledge ;  they  are  not,  however,  coupled,  as  often  repre- 
sented in  engravings,  but  are  each  attached  separately,  so 
that  when  in  motion  they  are  more  like  a  flock  of  Par- 
tridges, all  flying  loosely  and  yet  in  the  same  course. 
They  always  travel  at  a  gallop,  no  matter  what  the  state 
of  the  country  may  be,  and  to  go  down-hill  is  both  diffi- 
cult and  dangerous ;  and  at  times  it  is  necessary  for  the 
driver  to  guide  the  sledge  with  his  feet,  or  with  a  strong 
staff  planted  in  the  snow  as  the  sledge  proceeds ;  and  when 
heavily  laden,  and  the  descent  great,  the  dogs  are  often 
taken  off,  and  the  sledge  glides  down  alone,  the  man  steer- 
ing with  his  toes,  and  lying  flat  on  his  face,  thus  descend- 
ing head-foremost  like  boys  on  their  sleds.  The  dogs 
are  so  well  acquainted  with  the  courses  and  places  in  the 
neighborhood,  that  they  never  fail  to  take  their  master  and 
his  sledge  to  their  destination,  even  should  a  tremendous 


{M(t,| 


•^'m 


THE  LABRADOR  JOURNAL 


417 


laparte,  Nut- 
tne  company 
s  dined  with 
ir  party  went 
ir  miles  dis- 
long  "  by  the 
tales  respect- 
jy  his  account 
rhey  are  bar- 
elly  and  back 
ses  the  line  of 
and  acts  for  a 
)f  dogs  always 
the  distance  of 
ich  dog  is  esti- 
,te  of  five  or  six 
ell-broken  dog, 
ght-line  of  from 
with  gradually 
|eight  feet  from 
i,  as  often  repre- 
:d  separately,  so 
a  flock  of  Par- 
,e  same  course, 
what  the  state 
all  is  both  diffi- 
lecessary  for  the 
or  with  a  strong 
Iceeds;  and  when 
dogs  are  often 
,e,  the  man  steer- 
•e,  thus  descend- 
lleds.     The  dogs 
,nd  places  in  the 
;  their  master  and 
iuld  a  tremendous 


snow-storm  occur  whilst  underway;  and  it  is  always  safer 
to  leave  one's  fate  to  the  instinct  which  these  fine  animals 
possess  tha"  to  trust  to  human  judgment,  for  it  has  been 
proved  more  than  once  that  men  who  have  made  their 
dogs  change  their  course  have  been  lost,  and  sometimes 
died,  in  consequence.  When  travellers  meet,  both  parties 
come  circuitously,  and  as  slowly  as  possible  towards  each 
other,  which  gives  the  separate  packs  the  opportunity  of 
observing  that  their  masters  are  acquainted,  when  they 
meet  without  fighting,  a  thing  which  almost  always  occurs 
if  the  dogs  meet  unexpectedly.  Mr.  Jones  lost  a  son  of 
fourteen,  a  few  years  ago,  in  a  snow-storm,  owing  to  the 
servant  in  whose  care  he  was,  imprudently  turning  the 
dogs  from  their  course;  the  dogs  obeyed  the  command 
and  struck  towards  Hudson's  Bay;  when  the  weather 
cleared  the  servant  perceived  his  mistake,  but  alas!  too 
late;  the  food  was  exhausted,  and  the  lad  gradually  sank, 
and  died  in  the  arms  of  the  man. 

July  28.  At  daylight  this  morning  the  storm  had 
abated,  and  although  it  was  almost  calm,  the  sea  was 
high,  and  the  "  Ripley"  tossed  and  rolled  in  a  way  which 
was  extremely  unpleasant  to  me.  Breakfast  over,  we  all 
proceeded  to  Mr.  Jones'  establishment  with  a  view  to  pro- 
curing more  information,  and  to  try  to  have  some  of  his 
men  make  Esquimaux  boots  and  garments  for  us.  We 
received  little  information,  and  were  told  no  work  could 
be  done  for  us ;  on  asking  if  his  son,  a  youth  of  about 
twenty-three,  could  be  hired  to  guide  some  of  us  into 
the  interior  some  forty  miles,  Mr.  Jones  said  the  boy's 
mother  had  become  so  fearful  of  accideiits  since  the  loss 
of  the  other  son  that  he  could  not  say  without  asking  her 
pemiission,  which  she  would  not  grant.  We  proceeded 
over  the  table-lands  towards  some  ponds.  I  found  three 
young  Shore  Larks  just  out  of  the  nest,  and  not  yet  able 
to  fly ;  they  hopped  pretty  briskly  over  the  moss,  uttering 
a  soft  peep,  to  which  the  parent  bird  responded  at  every 

VOL.  I. — 27 


4i8 


AUDUBON 


%    \ 


call.  I  am  glad  that  it  is  in  my  power  to  make  a  figure 
of  these  birds  in  summer,  winter,  and  young  plumage. 
We  also  found  the  breeding-place  of  the  Ftiligula  histri- 
onica  in  the  comer  of  a  small  pond  in  some  low  bushes. 
By  another  pond  we  found  the  nest  of  the  Velvet  Duck, 
called  here  the  White-winged  Coot ;  it  was  placed  on  the 
moss  among  the  grass,  close  to  the  water;  it  contained 
feathers,  but  no  down  as  others.  The  female  had  six 
young,  five  of  which  we  procured.  They  were  about  a 
week  old,  and  I  could  readily  recognize  the  male  birds; 
they  all  had  the  white  spot  under  the  eye.  Four  were 
killed  with  one  shot;  one  went  on  shore  and  squatted  in 
the  grass,  where  Lincoln  caught  it;  but  I  begged  for  its 
life,  and  we  left  it  to  the  care  of  its  mother,  and  of  its 
Maker.  We  also  found  the  breeding-place  of  Ftiligula 
glacialis  by  a  very  large  pond ;  these  breed  in  companies 
and  are  shyer  than  in  the  States.  The  Pied  Duck  ^  breeds 
here  on  the  top  of  the  low  bushes,  but  the  season  is  so  far 
advanced  we  have  not  found  its  nest.  Mr.  Jones  tells  me 
the  King  Duck  passes  here  northwards  in  the  early  part 
of  March,  returning  in  October,  flying  high,  and  in  lines 
like  the  Canada  Goose.  The  Snow  Goose  is  never  seen 
here;  none,  indeed,  but  oceanic  species  are  seen  here. 
(I  look  on  Anas/usca^as  an  oceanic  species.)  Mr.  Jones 
has  never  been  more  than  a  mile  in  the  interior,  and 
knows  nothing  of  it.  There  are  two  species  of  Wood- 
pecker here,  and  only  two,  the  Three-toed  and  the  Downy. 
When  I  began  writing  it  was  calm,  now  it  blows  a  hurri- 
cane, rains  hard,  and  the  sea  is  as  high  as  ever. 

y«(j/  29.  Another  horrid,  stormy  day.  The  very  fish- 
ermen complain.  Five  or  six  vessels  left  for  further  east, 
but  I  wish  and  long  to  go  west.     The  young  men,  except 

1  Or  Labrador  Duck,  Camptoleemus  labradorius.  This  is  a  notable  record, 
considering  that  the  species  became  extinct  about  1875.  —  ^-  ^■ 

<  This  ir  the  White-winged  Coot  or  .Scoter  just  mentioned  above,  (Edemin 
degiandi.  —  £.  C.  , 


Coolidg 
to  a  pla< 
to  proci 
sins.     I 
the  bay  i 
terra  firn 
and  I  gre 
music,  an 
notes,  ma 
captain  is 
writing  tl 
horridly  bs 
Shore  Lar 
man.     I  di 
plumage,   1 
month  all  i 
suffer.     Tl 
scamper  ov< 
but  being  i 
snows  drivi 
journey.      ] 

Phalaropus 

fresh-water 

their  nest  c 

approach. 

nest  or  your 

job,  for  the] 

are  coming; 

about  the  V 

Curlew,  I  kr 

one  of  our  .. 

''own,  and  wa 

'^me  with  bi] 

size  of  a  WilJ 

'ews  border 


THE  LABRADOR  JOURNAL 


419 


lake  a  figure 

ng  plumage. 

ligiila  histri- 

low  bushes. 

/elvet  Duck, 

placed  on  the 

it  contained 

male  had  six 

were  about  a 

e  male  birds; 

;.     Four  were 

\d  squatted  in 

begged  for  its 

her,  and  of  its 

ce  of   Fuligula 

i  in  companies 

3  Duck  ^breeds 

season  is  so  far 

.  Jones  tells  me 

n  the  early  part 

gh,  and  in  lines 

,se  is  never  seen 

are  seen  here. 

,es.)    Mr.  Jones 

le  interior,  and 

,ecies  of  Wood- 

and  the  Downy. 

X  blows  a  hurri- 

ever. 

The  very  fish- 
for  further  east, 
lung  men.  except 

lis  is  a  notable  record, 

f,_E.C. 

Vioned  above,  CE*"'" 


Coolidge,  went  off  this  morning  after  an  early  breakfast 
to  a  place  called  Port  Eau,  eighteen  miles  distant,  to  try 
to  procure  some  Esquimaux  dresses,  particularly  mocca- 
sins. I  felt  glad  when  the  boat  wh'ch  took  them  across 
the  bay  returned,  as  it  assured  me  they  were  at  least  on 
terra  firma.  I  do  not  expect  them  till  to-morrow  night, 
and  I  greatly  miss  them.  When  all  our  party  is  present, 
music,  anecdotes,  and  jokes,  journalizing  and  comparing 
notes,  make  the  time  pass  merrily;  but  this  evening  the 
captain  is  on  deck,  Coolidge  is  skinning  a  bird,  and  I  am 
writing  that  which  is  scarcely  worth  recording,  with  a 
horridly  bad  patent  pen.  I  have  to-day  drawn  three  young 
Shore  Larks,  Alatida  alpestris,  the  first  ever  portrayed  by 
man.  I  did  wish  to  draw  an  adult  male,  in  full  summer 
plumage,  but  could  not  get  a  handsome  one.  In  one 
month  all  these  birds  must  leave  this  coast,  or  begin  to 
suffer.  The  young  of  many  birds  are  full-fledged,  and 
scamper  over  the  rocks ;  the  Ducks  alone  seem  backward, 
but  being  more  hardy  can  stay  till  October,  when  deep 
snows  drive  them  off,  ready  or  not  for  their  laborious 
journey.  I  saw  this  afternoon  two,  or  a  pair,  of  the 
Phalaropus  hyperborais ;  ^  they  were  swimming  in  a  small 
fresh- water  pond,  feeding  on  insects,  and  no  doubt  had 
their  nest  close  by,  as  they  evinced  great  anxiety  at  my 
approach.  I  did  not  shoot  at  them,  and  hope  to  find  the 
nest  or  young;  but  to  find  nests  in  the  moss  is  a  difficult 
job,  for  the  whole  country  looks  alike.  "The  Curlews 
are  coming;"  this  is  as  much  of  a  saying  here  as  that 
about  the  Wild  Pigeons  in  Kentucky.  What  species  of 
Curlew,  I  know  not  yet,  for  none  have  been  killed,  but 
one  of  our  men,  who  started  with  John  and  party,  broke 
down,  and  was  sent  back ;  he  assured  me  that  he  had  seen 
some  with  bills  about  four  inches  long,  and  the  body  the 
size  of  a  Wild  Pigeon.  The  accounts  given  of  these  Cur- 
lews border  on  the  miraculous,  and  I  shall  say  nothing 
I  Brown  or  Northern  Phalarope. 


4 

4 


420 


AUDUBON 


about  them  till  I  have  tested  the  fishermen's  stories.  ^  It  is 
now  calm,  for  a  wonder,  but  as  cold  as  vengeance,  on  deck; 
we  have  a  good  fire  in  the  stove,  and  I  am  roasting  on  one 
side  and  freezing  on  the  other.  The  water  of  our  harbor 
is  actually  coated  with  oil,  and  the  bottom  fairly  cov- 
ered with  the  refuse  of  the  codfish;  the  very  air  I  breathe 
and  smell  is  impregnated  with  essence  of  codfish. 

July  30.  It  was  a  beautiful  morning  when  I  arose,  and 
such  a  thing  as  a  beautiful  morning  in  this  n..  rnful 
country  almost  amounts  to  a  phenomenon.  The  captain 
and  myself  went  off  to  an  island  and  searched  for  an 
Alauda  alpestris,  and  found  a  good  number  of  old  and 
young,  associated,  both  equally  wild.  The  young  were 
led  off  with  great  care  by  the  adults,  and  urged  to  squat 
quietly  till  nearly  within  gunshot,  when  at  a  "tweet" 
from  the  parent  they  took  to  the  wing  and  were  off. 
These  birds  are  very  pugnacious,  and  attack  a  rival  at 
once,  when  both  come  to  the  scratch  with  courage  and 
tenacity.  I  saw  one  beautiful  male  in  full  summer  dress, 
which  I  secured,  and  have  drawn,  with  a  portion  of  moss. 
I  intend  to  add  two  drawn  in  winter  plumage.  This  after- 
noon we  visited  Mr.  Jones  and  his  wife,  a  good  motherly 
woman,  who  talked  well.  Our  young  men  returned  from 
Port  Eau  fatigued,  and,  as  usual,  hungry;  complained,  as 
I  expected,  of  the  country,  the  climate,  and  the  scarcity 
of  birds  and  plants,  and  not  a  pair  of  moccasins  to  be 
bought;  so  Lincoln  and  Shattuck  are  now  barefooted. 
They  brought  a  Lestris  pomarinus,^  female,  a  full-grown 
young  Raven,  and  some  Finches.  Coolidge's  party  had 
some  Lesser  Red-polls,  several  Swamp  Sparrows,  three 

1  The  Curlew  which  occurs  in  almost  incredible  numbers  in  Labrador  is 
the  Eskimo,  Numenius  borealis ;  the  one  with  the  bill  about  four  inches 
long,  also  found  in  that  country,  but  less  commonly,  is  the  Hudsonian, 
A'',  hudsonicus.    See  Coues,  Proc.  Acad.  Nat.  ScL,  Philada.,  i86i,  p.  236. 

—  E.G. 

'  Pomarine  Jager,  or  Gull-hunter,  now  called  Stercorarius  pomarima. 

—  E.  C. 


s 


'  'W  if 


THE  LABRADOR  JOURNAL 


421 


,tones.^  It  is 
nee,  on  deck; 
lasting  on  one 
of  our  harbor 
m  fairly  cov- 
'  air  I  breathe 
odfish. 

;n  I  arose,  and 
this  ii-  -rnful 
The  captain 
larched  for  an 
)er  of  old  and 
he  young  were 
urged  to  squat 
,  at  a  "tweet" 
and  were  off. 
:tack  a  rival  at 
th  courage  and 
1  summer  dress, 
portion  of  moss, 
ge.    This  after- 
»  good  motherly 
n  returned  from 
complained,  as 
ind  the  scarcity 
moccasins  to  be 
now  barefooted, 
le,  a  full-grown 
dge's  party  had 
Sparrows,  three 

mbers  in  Labrador  is 
11  about  four  inches 
y,  is  the  Hudsonian, 
•hilada.,  1861,  P-  236- 

trcorariMi  pomff"""- 


small  Black-cap  Green  Flycatchers,  Black-cap  Warblers, 
old  and  young,  the  last  fully  grown,  a  Fringilla  lincolnii, 
and  a  Pine  Grosbeak.  They  saw  many  Gulls  of  various 
species,  and  also  an  iceberg  of  immense  size.  There  is 
at  Pot  Eau  a  large  fishing  establishment  belonging  to 
fishermen  who  come  annually  from  the  Island  of  Jersey, 
and  have  a  large  store  with  general  supplies.  Ere  I  go 
to  rest  let  me  tell  thee  that  it  is  now  blowing  a  young 
hurricane,  and  the  prospect  for  to-morrow  is  a  bad  one. 
A  few  moments  ago  the  report  of  a  cannon  came  to  our 
ears  from  the  sea,  and  it  is  supposed  that  it  was  from 
the  "Gulnare. "  I  wish  she  was  at  our  side  and  snugly 
moored  as  we  are. 

July  31.  Another  horrid  hurricane,  accompanied  with 
heavy  rain.  I  could  not  go  on  with  my  drawing  either  in 
the  cabin  or  the  hold,  though  everything  was  done  that 
could  be  thought  of,  to  assist  me  in  the  attempt ;  not  a 
thing  to  relate,  as  not  one  of  us  could  go  on  shore. 

August  1.  Bras  d'Or,  Coast  of  Labrador.*  I  have 
drawn  my  Lestris  pomarinus,  but  under  difficulties ;  the 
weather  has  quite  changed;  instead  of  a  hurricane  from 
the  east,  we  have  had  one  all  day  from  the  southwest,  but 
no  rain.  At  noon  we  were  visited  by  an  iceberg,  which 
has  been  drifting  within  three  miles  of  us,  and  is  now 
grounded  at  the  entrance  of  the  bay;  it  looks  like  a  large 
man-of-war  dressed  in  light  green  muslin,  instead  of  can- 
vas, and  when  the  sun  strikes  it,  it  glitters  with  intense 
brilliancy.  When  these  transient  monuments  of  the  sea 
happen  to  tumble  or  roll  over,  the  fall  is  tremendous,  and 
the  sound  produced  resembles  that  of  loud,  distant  thun- 
der; these  icebergs  are  common  here  all  summer,  being 
wafted  south  with  every  gale  that  blows;  as  the  winds  are 
usually  easterly,  the  coast  of  Newfoundland  is  more  free 
from  them  than  that  of  Labrador.     I  have  determined  to 

^  A  small  village  on  the  coast  of  Labrador,  latitude  51'';  not  the  Braa 
D'Or  of  Cape  Breton  Island. 


I-     ! 


422 


AUDUBON 


■      ! 

J 

i 


make  a  last  thorough  search  of  the  mountain  tops,  plains 
and  ponds,  and  if  no  success  ensues,  to  raise  anchor  and 
sail  towards  the  United  States  once  more;  and  blessed 
will  the  day  be  when  I  land  on  those  dear  shores,  where 
all  I  long  for  in  the  world  exists  and  lives,  I  hope.  We 
have  been  on  shore  for  an  hour  for  exercise,  but  the  wind 
blew  so  fiercely  we  are  glad  to  return. 

August  2.  Noon.  The  thermometer  has  risen  to  58', 
but  it  has  rained  hard  all  day;  about  dinner  time  a  very 
handsome  schooner  from  Boston,  the  size  of  ours,  called 
the  "Wizard,"  commanded  by  Captain  Wilcomb  of  Ips- 
wich, arrived,  only  nine  days  from  Boston;  but  to  our  sor- 
row and  disappointment,  not  a  letter  or  paper  did  she 
bring,  but  we  learned  with  pleasure  that  our  great  cities 
are  all  healthy,  and  for  this  intelligence  I  thank  God. 
The  "Wizard  "  brought  two  young  Italian  clerks  as  super- 
cargo, who  are  going  to  purchase  fish ;  they  visited  us  and 
complained  bitterly  of  the  cold  and  the  general  appear- 
ance of  the  country.  The  retrograde  migration  of  many 
birds  has  already  commenced,  more  especially  that  of  the 
lesser  species  both  of  land  "^nd  water  birds. 

Augusts.  I  was  suddenly  awakened  last  night  about 
one  o'clock  by  the  shock  which  our  vessel  received  from 
the  "  Wizard, "  which  had  broken  her  stern  chain  in  the 
gale,  which  at  that  time  was  raj^ing  most  furiously.  Our 
captain  was  up  in  a  moment,  the  vessels  were  parted  and 
tranquillity  was  restored,  but  to  John's  sorrow,  and  my 
vexation,  our  beautiful  and  most  comfortable  gig  had  been 
struck  by  the  "Wizard,"  and  her  bows  stove  in;  at  day- 
light it  rained  hard  and  the  gale  continued.  Lincoln 
went  on  shore  and  shot  some  birds,  but  nothing  of  impor- 
tance. This  afternoon  we  all  went  ashore,  through  a 
high  and  frightful  sea  which  drenched  us  to  the  skin, 
and  went  to  the  table-lands;  there  we  found  the  true 
Esquimau  Curlew,  Numenius  borealis,  so  carelessly  de- 
scribed in  Bonaparte's  Synopsis.     This  species  here  takes 


"       ■'  TnJ 


THE  LABRADOR  JOURNAL 


423 


in  tops,  plains 
se  anchor  and 
;;  and  blessed 
shores,  where 
i,  I  hope.  We 
;,  but  the  wind 

as  risen  to  58°, 
ler  time  a  very 

of  ours,  called 
^ilcomb  of  Ips- 

but  to  our  sor- 

paper  did  she 

our  great  cities 

3  I  thank  God. 

clerks  as  super- 

;y  visited  us  and 

general  appear- 
gration  of  many 
lially  that  of  the 

s. 

[last  night  about 
!l  received  from 
;rn  chain  in  the 
furiously.    Our 
iwere  parted  and 
sorrow,  and  my 
Ible  gig  had  been 
itove  in;  at  day- 
nued.      Lincoln 
lothing  of  impor- 
ihore,  through  a 
us  to  the  skin, 
found  the  true 
.0  carelessly  de- 
[pecies  here  takes 


the  place  of  the  Migratory  Pigeon;  it  has  now  arrived;  I 
have  seen  many  hundreds  this  afternoon,  and  shot  seven. 
They  fly  in  compact  bodies,  with  beautiful  evolutions, 
overlooking  a  great  extent  of  country  ere  they  make 
choice  of  a  spot  on  which  to  alight;  this  is  done  wher- 
ever a  certain  I  erry,  called  here  "  Curlew  berry,"  ^  proves 
to  be  abundant.  Here  they  balance  themselves,  call, 
whistle,  and  of  common  accord  come  to  the  ground,  as 
the  top  of  the  country  here  must  be  called.  They  devour 
every  berry,  and  if  pursued  squat  in  the  manner  of  Par- 
tridges. A  single  shot  starts  the  whole  flock ;  off  they  fly, 
ramble  overhead  for  a  great  distance  ere  they  again  alight. 
This  rambling  is  caused  by  the  scarcity  of  berries.  This 
is  the  same  bird  of  which  three  specimens  were  sent  to 
me  by  William  Oakes,  of  IpsWich,  Mass.  The  iceberg  has 
been  broken  into  thousands  of  pieces  by  the  gale. 

August  4-  Still  raining  as  steadi^"  as  ever ;  the  morning 
was  calm,  and  on  shore  the  mosquitoes  were  shockingly 
bad,  though  the  thermometer  indicates  only  49°.  I  have 
been  drawing  at  the  Numenius  borcalis;  I  find  them  diffi- 
cult birds  to  represent.  The  young  men  went  on  shore 
and  brought  me  four  more;  every  one  of  ihe  lads  observed 
to-day  the  great  tendency  these  birds  have,  in  squatting  to 
elude  the  eye,  to  turn  the  tail  towards  their  pursuer,  and 
to  lay  the  head  flat.  This  habit  is  common  to  many  of 
the  TringaSy  and  some  of  the  Charadrins.  This  species  of 
Curlew,  the  smallest  I  ever  saw,  feeds  on  the  berries  it 
procures,  with  a  rapidity  equalled  only  by  that  of  the 
Passenger  Pigeon;  in  an  instant  all  the  ripe  berries  on 
the  plant  are  plucked  and  swallowed,  and  the  whole  coun- 
try is  cleared  of  these  berries  as  our  Western  woods  are 
of  the  mast.  In  their  evolutions  they  resemble  Pigeons 
also,  sweeping  over  the  ground,  cutting  backward  and  for- 
ward in  the  most  interesting  manner,  and  now  and  then 
poising  in  the  air  like  a  Hawk  in  sight  of  quarry.     There 

1  Empttrum  nigrum. 


424 


AUDUBON 


is  scarcely  any  difference  in  the  appearance  of  the  adult 
and  the  young.     The  Alauda  alpestris  of  this  season  has 
now  made   such   progress   in   its   growth  that   the  first 
moulting  is  so  forward  that  the  small  wing-coverts  and 
secondaries  are  already  come,  and  have  assumed  the  beau- 
tiful rosy  tints  of  the  adults  in  patches  at  these  parts ;  a 
most  interesting  state  of  their  plumage,  probably  never 
seen  by  any  naturalist  before.     It  is  quite  surprising  to 
see  how  quickly  the  growth  is  attained  of  every  living 
thing   in  this  country,  either  animal  or  vegetable.     In 
six  weeks  I  have  seen  the  eggs  laid,  the  birds  hatched, 
their   first  moult  half  over,  their  association  in  flocks, 
and  preparations  begun   for  their  leaving  the  country. 
That   the   Creator  should   have  commanded   millions  of 
delicate,  diminutive,  tender  creatures  to  cross  immense 
spaces  of  country  to  all  appearance  a  thousand  times  more 
congenial  to  them  than  this,  to  cause  them  to  people,  as 
it  were,  this  desolate  land  for  a  time,  to  enliven  it  by  the 
songs  of  the  sweet  feathered  musicians  for  two  months  at 
most,  and  by  the  same  command  induce  them  to  abandon 
it  almost  suddenly,   is  as  wonderful  as  it  is  beautiful. 
The  fruits  are  now  ripe,  yet  six  weeks  ago  the  whole 
country  was  a  sheet  of  snow,  the  bays  locked  in  ice,  the 
air  a  constant  storm.     Now  the  grass  is  rich  in  growth, 
at  every  step  flowers  are  met  with,  insects  fill  the  air,  the 
snow-banks  are  melting ;  now  and  then  an  appearance  as 
of  summer  does  exist,  but  in  thirty  days  all  is  over;  the 
dark  northern  clouds  will  enwrap  the  mountain  summits; 
the  rivulets,  the  ponds,  the  rivers,  the  bays  themselves 
will  begin  to  freeze;  heavy  snowfalls  will  cover  all  these 
shores,  and  nature  will  resume  her  sleeping  state,  nay, 
more  than  that,  one  of  desolation  and  death.     Wonderful! 
Wonderful!     But  this  marvellous  country  must  be  left  to 
an  abler  pen  than  mine  to  describe.    The  Tringa  maritma^ 

1  The  Purple  or  Rock  Sandpiper,  Tringa  {ArqtMtdla)  maritima.  —  E.C. 


THE  LABRADOR  JOURNAL 


425 


of  the  adult 
s  season  has 
lat  the  first 
f-coverts  and 
:ied  the  beau- 
hese  parts;  a 
robably  never 
surprising  to      ' 
every  living 
egetable.     In 
Dirds  hatched, 
ion  in  flocks, 
;  the  country. 
;d   millions  of 
cross  immense 
ind  times  more 
n  to  people,  as 
iliven  it  by  the 
two  months  at 
^em  to  abandon 
is  beautiful, 
ago  the  whole 
ked  in  ice,  the 
ich  in  growth, 
fill  the  air,  the 
\  appearance  as 
ill  is  over;  the 
intain  summits; 
)ays  themselves 
cover  all  these 
ing  state,  nay, 
Wonderful! 
must  be  left  to 
ringa  maritmO'^ 


h. 


la)  maritima.  —  'E"^- 


and  Tringa  pusilla^  were  both  shot  in  numbers  this  day; 
the  young  are  now  as  large  as  the  old,  and  we  see  little 
flock''  everywhere.  We  heard  the  "  Gulnare "  was  at 
Bonne  Esp^rance,  twenty  miles  west  of  us;  I  wish  she 
was  here,  I  should  much  like  to  see  her  officers  again. 

August  5.  This  has  been  a  fine  day,  no  hurricane.  I 
have  finished  two  Labrador  Curlews,  but  not  the  ground. 
A  few  Curlews  were  shot,  and  a  Blark-breasted  Plover. 
John  shot  a  Shore  Lark  that  had  almost  completed  its 
moult;  it  appears  to  me  that  northern  birds  come  to 
maturity  sooner  than  southern  ones,  yet  the  reverse  is  the 
case  in  our  own  species.  Birds  of  the  Tringa  kind  are 
constantly  passing  over  our  heads  in  small  bodies  bound 
westward,  some  of  the  same  species  which  I  observed  in 
the  Floridas  in  October.  The  migration  of  birds  is  per- 
haps much  more  wonderful  than  that  of  fishes,  almost  all 
of  which  go  feeling  their  way  along  the  shores  and  return 
to  the  very  same  river,  creek,  or  even  hole  to  deposit 
their  spawn,  as  birds  do  to  their  former  nest ;  but  the 
latter  do  not  feel  their  way,  but  launching  high  in  air  go 
at  once  and  correctly  too,  across  vast  tracts  of  country, 
yet  at  once  stopping  in  portions  heretofore  their  own,  and 
of  which  they  know  by  previous  experiences  the  comforts 
and  advantages.  We  have  had  several  arrivals  of  ves- 
sels, some  so  heavily  loaded  with  fish  that  the  water  runs 
over  their  decks ;  others,  in  ballast,  have  come  to  purchase 
fish. 

August  10.  I  now  sit  down  to  post  my  poor  book, 
while  a  heavy  gale  is  raging  furiously  around  our  vessel. 
My  reason  for  not  writing  at  night  is  that  I  have  been 
drawing  so  constantly,  often  seventeen  hours  a  day,  that 
the  weariness  of  my  body  at  night  has  been  unprecedented, 
by  such  work  at  least.  At  times  I  felt  as  if  my  physical 
powers  would  abandon  me;  my  neck,  my  shoulders,  and, 

'  Not  Ereunetes  pusillus,  but  the  Least  Sandpiper,  Tringa  {Actodromas) 
ninutilla,  which  appears  as  Tringa  pusilla  in  Audubon's  works.  —  E.  C. 


426 


AUDUBON 


more  than  all,  my  fingers,  were  almost  useless  through 
actual  fatigue  at  drawing.    Who  would  believe  this  ?  — yet 
nothing  is  more  true.     When  at  the  return  of  dawn  ray 
spirits  called  me  out  of  my  berth,  my  body  seemed  to  beg 
my  mind  to  suffer  it  to  rest  a  while  longer;  and  as  dark 
forced  me  to  lay  aside  my  brushes  I  immediately  went  to 
rest  as  if  I  had  walked  sixty-five  miles  that  day,  as  I  have 
done  a  few  times  in  my  stronger  days.     Yesternight,  when 
I  rose  from  my  little  seat  to  contemplate  my  work  and  to 
judge  of  the  effect  of  it  compared  with  the  nature  which 
I  had  been  attempting  to  copy,   it  was  the  affair  of  a 
moment;  and  instead  of  waiting,  as  I  always  like  to  do, 
until  that  hazy  darkness  which  is  to  me  the  best  time  to 
judge  of  the  strength  of  light  and  shade,  I  went  at  once 
to  rest  as  if  delivered  from  the  heaviest  task  I  ever  per- 
formed.    The  young  men  think  my  fatigue  is  added  to 
by  the  fact  that  I  often  work  in  wet  clothes,  but  I  have 
done  that  all  my  life  with  no  ill  effects.     No!  no!  it  is 
that  I  am  no  longer  young.     But  I  thank  God  that  I  did 
accomplish  my  task;  my  drawings  are  finished  to  the  best 
of  my  ability,  the  skins  well  prepared  by  John.    We  have 
been  to  Paroket  Island  to  procure  the  young  of  the  Mor- 
mon arcticus.     As  we  approached  the  breeding-place,  the 
air  was  filled  with  these  birds,  and  the  water  around  abso- 
lutely covered  with  them,  while  on  the  rocks  were  thou- 
sands, like  sentinels  on  the  watch.     I  took  a  stand,  loaded 
and   shot  twenty-seven   times,  and   killed  twenty-seven 
birds,  singly  and  on  the  wing,  without  missing  a  shot;  as 
friend  Bachman  would  say,  "  Pretty  fair.  Old  Jostle !  "   The 
young  men  laughed,  and  said  the  birds  were  so  thick  no 
one  could  miss  if  he  tried;  however,  none  of  them  did 
so  well.     We  had  more  than  we  wanted,  but  the  young 
were  all  too  small  to  draw  with  effect.     Nearly  every  bird 
I  killed  had  a  fish  in  its  beak,  closely  held  by  the  head, 
and  the  body  dangling  obliquely  in  the  air.     These  fish 
were  all  of  the  kind  called  here  Lints,  a  long  slender  fish 


male 

sion 

till 

to  sa\ 

hundi 

whih 

The 

seen 

towarc 

stantlj 

AH  ef 


'Thii 
8vo  pi. : 
cui.    It 
known 
wrd  in 


m.m 


THE  LABRADOR  JOURNAL 


427 


iless  through 
re  this?— yet 
I  of  dawn  my 
seemed  to  beg 
;  and  as  dark 
liately  went  to 
day,  as  I  have 
ternight,  when 
ny  work  and  to 
B  nature  which 
the  affair  of  a 
ays  like  to  do, 
tie  best  time  to 
I  went  at  once 
task  I  ever  per- 
due is  added  to 
ies,  but  I  have 
No !  no  I  it  is 
k  God  that  I  did 
[ished  to  the  best 
John.    We  have 
ung  of  the  Mot- 
jeding-place,  the 
ter  around  abso- 
rocks  were  thou- 
k  a  stand,  loaded 
ed  twenty-seven 
lissing  a  shot;  as 
Hd  Jostle!"  The 
were  so  thick  no 
lone  of  them  did 
d,  but  the  young 
Nearly  every  bird 
teld  by  the  head, 
air.     These  fish 
long  slender  fisb 


now  in  shoals  of  millions.  How  many  must  the  multi- 
tude of  Mormons  inhabiting  this  island  destroy  daily? 
Whilst  flying  they  all  issue  a  rough  croak,  but  none 
dropped  the  fish,  nor  indeed  did  they  let  it  go  when 
brought  to  the  earth.  The  Larus  marinus  have  now 
almost  all  gone  south  with  their  young ;  indeed,  very  few 
Gulls  of  any  sort  are  now  to  be  seen.  Whilst  on  the 
island  we  saw  a  Hawk  pounce  on  a  Puffin  and  carry  it  oH. 
Curlews  have  increased  in  numbers,  but  during  two  fair 
days  we  had  they  could  not  be  approached ;  indeed,  they 
appear  to  be  so  intent  on  their  passage  south  that  when- 
ever the  weather  permits  they  are  seen  to  strike  high  in 
the  air  across  the  harbor.  The  gale  is  so  severe  that  our 
anchors  have  dragged  forty  or  fifty  yards,  but  by  letting 
out  still  more  chain  we  are  now  safe.  It  blows  and  rains 
so  hard  that  it  is  impossible  to  stand  in  the  bow  of  our 
vessel.  But  this  is  not  all, — who,  now,  will  deny  the 
existence  of  the  Labrador  Falcon  ?  ^  Yes,  my  Lucy,  one 
more  new  species  is  on  the  list  of  the  "  Birds  of  Amer- 
ica," and  may  we  have  the  comfort  of  seeing  its  beautiful 
figure  multiplied  by  Havell's  engraver.  This  bird  (both 
male  and  female)  was  shot  by  John  whilst  on  an  excur- 
sion with  all  our  party,  and  on  the  6th  inst.,  when  I  sat 
till  after  twelve  o'clock  that  night  to  outline  one  of  them 
to  save  daylight  the  next  day  to  color  it,  as  I  have  done 
hundreds  of  times  before.  John  shot  them  on  the  wing, 
whilst  they  were  in  company  with  their  two  young  ones. 
The  birds,  one  would  be  tempted  to  believe,  had  never 
seen  a  man  before,  for  these  affectionate  parents  dashed 
towards  the  gunners  with  fierce  velocity,  and  almost  in- 
stantly died  from  the  effects  of  two  well-directed  shots. 
All  efforts  to  procure  the  young  birds  were  ineffectual; 

*  This  is  the  bird  figured  by  Audubon  as  Falco  lahradora  on  folio  pi.  196, 
8vo  pi.  19,  but  which  he  afterward  considered  to  be  the  same  as  his  F.  islandi- 
cus.  It  is  now  held,  however,  to  represent  a  dark  variety  of  Gyrfalcon, 
known  as  F.  gyrfaUo  obsohfus,  confined  to  Labrador  and  thence  south' 
ward  in  winter  to  New  England  and  New  York.  —  E.  C. 


428 


AUDUBON 


they  were  full  grown,  and  as  well  as  could  be  seen,  exactly 
resembled  the  dead  ones.  The  whole  group  flew  much 
like  the  Peregrine  Falcon,  which  indeed  resembles  them 
much  in  form,  but  neither  in  size  nor  color.  Sometimes 
they  hover  almost  high  in  air  like  a  small  Sparrow  Hawk 
when  watching  some  object  fit  for  prey  on  the  ground,  and 
now  and  then  cry  much  like  the  latter,  but  louder  in  pro- 
portion with  the  difference  of  size  in  the  two  species. 
Several  times  they  alighted  on  stakes  in  the  sandbar  at 
the  entrance  of  Bras  d'Or  River,  and  stood  not  as  Hawks 
generally  do,  uprightly,  but  horizontally  and  much  like  a 
Lestris  or  a  Tern.  Beneath  their  nest  we  found  the  re- 
mains of  Alca  tarda,  Uria  troile,  an<^  Mormon  arcticus  —  all 
of  which  are  within  their  reach  on  an  island  here  called 
Parocket  Island  — also  the  remains  of  Curlews  and  Ptarmi- 
gans. The  nest  was  so  situated  that  it  could  not  be 
reached,  only  seen  into.  Both  birds  were  brought  to  me 
in  excellent  order.  No  more  is  known  of  this  bird,  I 
believe. 

My  evening  has  been  enlivened  by  the  two  Italians 
from  the  "Wizard,"  who  have  been  singing  many  songs 
to  the  accompaniment  of  John's  violin. 

August  11.  At  sea,  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence.  We  are 
now,  seven  of  the  evening,  fully  fifty  miles  from  the  coast 
of  Labrador.  We  left  our  harbor  at  eleven  o'clock  with 
a  fair  breeze;  the  storm  of  last  night  had  died  away  and 
everything  looked  promising.  The  boats  were  sent  ashore 
for  a  supply  of  fresh  water;  John  and  Coolidge  went  after 
Curlews ;  the  rest  of  the  crew,  assisted  by  that  of  the 
"Wizard,"  raised  the  anchors,  and  all  was  soon  in  readi- 
ness. The  bottom  of  our  vessel  had  been  previously 
scraped  and  cleaned  from  the  thousands  of  barnacles, 
which,  with  a  growth  of  seaweeds,  seemed  to  feed  upon 
her  as  they  do  on  the  throat  of  a  whale.  The  two  Italians 
and  Captain  Wilcomb  came  on  board  to  bid  us  adieu;  we 
hoisted  sail,  and  came  out  of  the  Labrador  harbor.     Sel- 


k-l 


m\ 


THE  LABRADOR  JOURNAL 


429 


seen,  exactly 
p  flew  much 
embles  them 
Sometimes 
parrow  Hawk 
2  ground,  and 
louder  in  pro- 
two  species, 
he  sandbar  at 
not  as  Hawks 
id  much  like  a 
found  the  re- 
«  arcticiis—'^ 
nd  here  called 
ws  and  Ptarmi- 
:  could  not  be 
;  brought  to  me 
of  this  bird,  1 

^e  two  Italians 
ing  many  songs 


dom  in  my  life  have  I  left  a  country  with  as  little  regret 
as  I  do  this;  the  next  nearest  to  this  was  East  Florida, 
after  my  excursions  up  the  St.  John's  River.     As  we  sailed 
away,  and  I  saw,  probably  for  the  last  time,  the  high 
rugged  hills  partly  immersed  in  masses  of  the  thick  fog 
that  usually  hovers  over  them,  and  knew  that  now  the  bow 
of  our  truly  fine  vessel  was  turned  towards  the  place 
where  thou,  my  Lucy,  art  waiting  for  me,  I  felt  rejoiced, 
although  yet  far  away.     Now  we  are  sailing  in  full  sight 
of  the  northwestern  coast  of  Newfoundland,  the  moun- 
tains of  which  are  high,  with  drifted  snow-banks  dotted 
over  them,  and  cut  horizontally  with  floating  strata  of 
fogs  reaching  along  the  land  as  far  as  the  eye  can  see. 
The  sea  is  quite  smooth ;  at  least  I  think  so,  or  have  be- 
come a  better  seaman  through  habit.     John  and  Lincoln 
are  playing  airs  on  the  violin  and  flute;  the  other  young 
men  are  on  deck.     It  is  worth  saying  that  during  the  two 
months  we  have  been  on  the  coast  of  Labrador,  moving 
from  one  harbor  to  another,   or  from  one  rocky  isle  to 
another,  only  three  nights  have  we  spent  at  sea.    Twenty- 
three  drawings  have  been  execr«-°d,  or  commenced  and 
nearly  completed.      Whether  this  voyage  will  prove  a 
fruitful  one  remains  to  be  p-oved;  but  I  am  content,  and 
hope  the  Creator  will  permit  us  to  reach  our  country  and 
find  our  friends  well  and  happy. 

August  13.  Harbor  of  St.  George,  St.  George's  Bay, 
Newfoundland.  Wf:  have  been  running,  as  the  sailors 
say,  till  five  this  evening,  when  we  anchored  here.  Our 
way  here  was  all  in  sight  of  land  along  the  northwest 
shores  of  Newfoundland,  the  highest  land  we  have  yet 
seen;  in  some  places  the  scenery  was  highly  picturesque 
and  agreeable  to  the  eye,  though  little  more  vegetation 
appeared  than  in  Labrador.  Last  night  was  a  boisterous 
one,  and  we  were  all  uncomfortable.  This  morning  we 
entered  the  mouth  of  St.  George's  Bay,  about  thirteen 
leagues  broad  and  fully  eighteen  deep.     A  more  beauti- 


430 


AUDUBON 


I 


l«M' 


f ul  and  ample  basin  cannot  easily  be  found ;  not  an  ob- 
struction is  within  it.  The  northeast  shores  are  high  and 
rocky,  but  the  southern  ones  are  sandy,  low,  and  flat.  It 
took  us  till  five  o'clock  to  ascend  it  and  come  to  our 
present  anchorage,  in  sight  of  a  small  village,  the  only 
one  we  have  seen  these  two  months,  and  on  a  harbor 
wherein  more  than  fifty  line-of-battle  ships  could  safely 
ride,  the  bottom  being  of  clay.  The  village  is  built  on 
an  elongated  point  of  sand,  or  natural  sea-wall,  under 
which  we  now  are,  and  is  perfectly  secure  from  every 
wind  but  the  northeast.  The  country  as  we  ascended  the 
bay  became  more  woody  and  less  rough.  The  temper- 
ature changed  quite  suddenly,  and  this  afternoon  the 
weather  was  so  mild  that  it  was  agreeable  on  deck,  and 
congenial  even  to  a  southerner  like  myself.  We  find 
here  several  small  vessels  engaged  in  the  fisheries,  and 
an  old  hulk  from  Hull,  England,  called  "  Charles  Tenni- 
son  " ;  she  was  lost  near  this  on  her  way  from  Quebec  to 
Hull  some  years  ago.  As  we  came  up  the  bay,  a  small 
boat  with  two  men  approached  and  boarded  us,  assisting 
as  pilots.  They  had  a  barrel  of  fine  salmon,  which  I 
bought  for  ten  dollars.  As  soon  as  our  anchors  touched 
bottom,  our  young  men  went  on  shore  to  try  to  purchase 
some  fresh  provisions,  but  returned  with  nothing  but  two 
bottles  of  milk,  though  the  village  is  said  to  contain  two 
hundred  inhabitants.  Mackerel  are  caught  all  round  us, 
and  sharks  of  the  man-eating  kind  are  said  to  be  abundant 
just  now,  and  are  extremely  troublesome  to  the  fishers' 
nets.  Some  signs  of  cultivation  are  to  be  seen  across  the 
harbor,  and  many  huts  of  Mic-Mac  Indians  adorn  the 
shores.  We  learn  the  winter  here  is  not  nearly  as  severe 
as  at  Quebec;  the  latitude  of  this  place  and  the  low,  well- 
guarded  situation  of  the  little  village,  at  once  account  for 
this;  yet  not  far  off  I  see  patches  of  snow  remaining  from 
last  winter.  Some  tell  us  birds  are  abundant,  others  that 
there  are  none ;  but  we  shall  soon  ascertain  which  report 


THE  LABRADOR  JOURNAL 


431 


t;  not  an  ob- 
are  high  and 
,  and  flat.     It 
come  to  our 
lage,  the  only 
I  on  a  harbor 
)s  could  safely 
ge  is  built  on 
ea-wall,  under 
ire  from  every 
re  ascended  the 
The  temper- 
afternoon  the 
ie  on  deck,  and 
rself.      We  find 
le  fisheries,  and 
'  Charles  Tenni- 
from  Quebec  to 
the  bay,  a  small 
ded  us,  assisting 
salmon,  which  1 
anchors  touched 
0  try  to  purchase 
nothing  but  two 
id  to  contain  two 
rht  all  round  us, 
'd  to  be  abundant 
|e  to  the.  fishers' 
le  seen  across  the 
idians  adorn  the 
\  nearly  as  severe 
[nd  the  low,  well- 
once  account  for 
V  remaining  from 
[idant,  others  that 
tain  which  report 


is  true.  I  have  not  slept  a  minute  since  we  left  Labra- 
dor. The  ice  here  did  not  break  up  so  that  the  bay  could 
be  navigated  till  the  17th  of  May,  and  I  feel  confident  no 
one  could  enter  the  harbors  of  Labrador  before  the  loth 
of  June,  or  possibly  even  later. 

August  14'      All  ashore  in  search  of  birds,    plants, 
shells,  and  all  the  usual  et  ceteras  attached  to  our  voca- 
tions; but  we  all  were  driven  on  board  soon,  by  a  severe 
storm  of  wind  and  rain,  showing  that  Newfoundland  has 
its  share  of  bad  weather.     Whilst  on  shore  we  found  the 
country  quite  rich  compared  with  Labrador,  all  the  vege- 
table productions  being  much  larger,  more  abundant,  and 
finer.     We  saw  a  flock  of  House  Swallows  that  had  bred 
about  the  little  village,  now  on  their  passage  southwest, 
and  all  gay  and  singing.     I  forgot  to  say  that  two  days 
since,  when  about  forty  miles  out  at  sea,  we  saw  a  flock  of 
the  Republican  Swallow.     I  saw  here  the  Blue  yellow- 
eyed  Warbler,  the  Fish-Hawk,  several  species  of  Spar- 
rows, among  them  the  Lincoln's  Finch,  the  Canada  Tit- 
mouse, Black-headed  ditto,  White-winged  Crossbill,  Pine 
Grosbeak,  Maryland  Yellow-throat,  Pigeon  Hawk,  Hairy 
Woodpecker,  Bank  Swallow,  Tell-tale  Godwit,  Golden- 
eyed  Duck,  Red-breasted  Merganser,  three  Loons,  —  of 
which  two  were  young  and  almost  able  to  fly ;  the  Spotted 
Sandpiper,  and  a  flock  of  Tringas,  the  species  of  which 
could  not  be  ascertained.     We  spoke  to  some  of  the  na- 
tive Indians  to  try  to  engage  them  to  show  us  the  way  to 
the  interior,  where  we  are  told  the  Small,  or  True  Ptarmi- 
gan abounds,  but  they  were  too  lazy  even  to  earn  money. 
Among  the  plants  we  found  two  varieties  of  rose,  and  the 
narrow-leaved  kalmia.    Few  supplies  can  be  obtained,  and 
a  couple  of  small  clearings  are  all  the  cultivated  land  we 
have  seen  since  we  left  the  Magdalene  Islands.     On  re- 
turning to  our  vessel,  I  was  rowed  on  the  roughest  sea  I 
have  ever  before  encountered  in  an  open  boat,  but  our 
captain  was  at  the  helm  and  we  reached  the  deck  safely 


432 


AUDUBON 


but  drenched  to  the  skin.  The  wind  has  now  abated,  and 
I  hope  to  draw  plants  all  day.  This  evening  a  flock  of 
Terns,  twenty  or  thirty  with  their  young,  travelled  due 
south;  they  were  very  clamorous  and  beat  against  the 
gale  most  beautifully.  Several  Indians  came  on  board 
and'  promised  to  go  to-morrow  after  Hares. 

August  lo.  We  have  had  a  beautiful  day ;  this  morning 
some  Indians  came  alongside ;  they  had  half  a  Reindeer  or 
Caribou,  and  a  Hare  which  I  had  never  seen  before.  We 
took  the  forty-four  pounds  of  fresh  meat  and  gave  in  ex- 
change twenty-one  of  pork  and  thirty-three  of  ship-biscuit, 
and  paid  a  quarter  of  a  dollar  for  the  Hare,  which  plainly 
shows  that  these  Indians  know  full  well  the  value  of  the 
game  which  they  procure.  I  spent  a  portion  of  the  day  in 
adding  a  plant  to  my  drawing  of  the  Red-necked  Diver,  after 
which  we  all  went  on  shore  to  the  Indians'  camp  across  the 
bay.  We  found  them,  as  I  expected,  all  lying  down  pell- 
mell  in  their  wigwams.  A  strong  mixture  of  blood  was 
apparent  in  their  skins,  shape,  and  deportment;  some 
indeed  were  nearly  white,  and  sorry  I  am  to  say  that  the 
nearer  to  our  own  noble  selves,  the  filthier  and  lazier  they 
are ;  the  women  and  children  were  particularly  disgusting. 
Some  of  the  former,  from  whom  I  purchased  some  rough 
baskets,  were  frightfully  so.  Other  women  had  been  out 
collecting  the  fruit  called  here  "baked  apple"  [Rubm 
chatncemorjis].  When  a  little  roasted  it  tastes  exactly  like 
baked  apple.  The  children  were  engaged  in  catching 
lobsters  and  eels,  of  which  there  are  numbers  in  all  the 
bays  here ;  at  Labrador,  lobsters  are  rare.  The  young  Indi- 
ans simply  waded  out  up  to  their  knees,  turned  the  eel  grass 
over,  and  secured  their  prey.  After  much  parley,  we  en- 
gaged two  hunters  to  go  as  guides  into  the  interior  to  pro- 
cure Caribou  and  Hares,  for  which  they  were  to  receive  a 
dollar  a  day  each.  Our  men  caught  ninety-nine  lobsters, 
all  of  good  size ;  the  shores  truly  abound  in  this  valuable 
shell-fish.    The  Indians  roast  them  in  a  fire  of  brushwood, 


i 


I 


WW' 


THE  LABRADOR  JOURNAL 


433 


w  abated,  and 
ng  a  flock  of 
travelled  due 
it  against  the 
ame  on  board 

s. 

' ;  this  morning 
f  a  Reindeer  or 
;n  before.    We 
and  gave  in  ex- 
of  ship-biscuit, 
J,  which  plainly 
;he  value  of  the 
on  of  the  day  in 
eked  Diver,  after 
camp  across  the 
lying  down  pell- 
ire  of  blood  was 
portment;   some 
1  to  say  that  the 
if  and  lazier  they 
ularly  disgusting, 
ased  some  rough 
len  had  been  out 
apple"  [i2«*«^ 
[astes  exactly  like 
tged  in  catching 
nibers  in  all  the 
The  young  Indi- 
|rned  the  eel  grass 
ich  parley,  we  en- 
le  interior  to  pro- 
were  to  receive  a 
lety-nine  lobsters, 
nd  in  this  valuable 
fire  of  brushwood, 


and  devour  them  without  salt  or  any  other  et  ccteras.  The 
Caribous  are  now  "  in  velvet,"  and  their  skins  light  gray, 
the  flesh  tender,  but  the  animal  poor.  The  average  weight 
when  in  good  condition,  four  hundred  pounds.  In  the 
early  part  of  March  the  Caribou  leave  the  hills  and  come 
to  the  sea-shore  to  feed  on  kelp  and  sea-grasses  cut  off  by 
the  ice  and  cast  on  the  shore.  Groups  of  many  hundreds 
may  be  seen  thus  feeding.  The  flesh  here  is  held  in  low 
estimation ;  it  tastes  like  poor  venison.  I  saw  to-day  several 
pairs  of  Cayenne  Terns  on  their  way  south ;  they  flew  high, 
and  were  very  noisy.  The  Great  Terns  passed  also  in  vast 
multitudes.  When  the  weather  is  stormy,  they  skim  close 
over  the  water ;  if  fair,  they  rise  very  high  and  fly  more  at 
leisure.  The  Tell-tale  Godwit  is  now  extremely  fat,  ex- 
tremely juicy,  extremely  tender,  and  extremely  good. 
The  Parus  hudsonicus  is  very  abundant ;  so  is  the  Pine 
Grosbeak,  but  in  a  shocking  state  of  moult.  The  Kalmia 
angustifolia}  the  natives  say,  is  an  antidote  for  cramp  and 
rheumatism.  I  was  on  the  point  of  bidding  thee  good- 
night, when  we  all  were  invited  to  a  ball  ^  on  shore.  I  am 
going  with  the  rest  out  of  curiosity. 

August  16.  The  people  seemed  to  enjoy  themselves  well 
at  the  ball,  and  John  played  the  violin  for  them  till  half-past 
two.  I  returned  on  board  before  eleven,  and  slept  soundly 
till  the  young  men  hailed  for  a  boat.  This  morning  has  been 
spent  drawing  a  kalmia  to  a  bird.  The  young  men  went 
off  with  the  Indians  this  morning,  but  returned  this  evening 
driven  back  by  flies  and  mosquitoes.  Lincoln  is  really  in 
great  pain.  They  brought  a  pair  of  Willow  Grouse,  old  and 
young;  the  latter  had  no  hairy  feathers  yet  on  the  legs. 
They  saw  Canada  Jays,  Crossbills,  Pine  Grosbeaks,  Robins, 
one  Golden-winged  Woodpecker,  many  Canadian  Titmice, 
a  Martin  Swallow,  a  Kingfisher  (none  in  Labrador)  heard 
a  Squirrel  which  sounded  like  the  Red  Squirrel.  The 
country  was  described  as  being  "  up  and  down  the  whole 

1  Sheep  laurel.  »  See  Episode,  "  A  Ball  in  Newfoundland." 

VOL.  I. —  28 


I       ;       .1 


434 


A  UDUBON 


way."  The  moss  almost  as  deep  as  in  Labrador,  the 
morasses  quite  as  much  so;  no  tall  wood,  and  no  hard 
wood.  The  lads  were  all  so  fatigued  that  they  are  now 
sound  asleep. 

August  17.  We  would  now  be  "ploughing  the  deep" 
had  the  wind  been  fair ;  but  as  it  was  not,  here  we  still  are  /;/ 
statu  quo.  I  have  drawn  a  curious  species  of  alder  to  my 
White-winged  Crossbill,  and  finished  it.  I  had  a  visit  from 
an  old  Frenchman  who  has  resided  on  this  famous  island 
for  fifty  years ;  he  assured  me  that  no  Red  Indians  were 
now  to  be  found :  the  last  he  heard  of  were  seen  twenty- 
two  years  ago.  These  native  Indians  give  no  quarter  to 
anybody;  usually,  after  killing  their  foes,  they  cut  the 
heads  ofif  the  latter,  and  leave  the  body  to  the  wild  beasts 
of  the  country.  Several  flocks  of  Golden  Plovers  passed 
over  the  bay  this  forenoon  ;  two  Lestris  pomarina  came  in 
this  evening.  Ravens  abound  here,  but  no  Crows  have 
been  seen.  The  Great  Tern  is  passing  south  by  thousands, 
and  a  small  flock  of  Canada  Geese  was  seen.  A  young 
of  the  Golden-crested  Wren  was  shot,  full  grown  and 
fledged,  but  not  a  sign  of  yellow  on  the  head.  A  Mm- 
cicapa  (Flycatcher)  was  killed  which  probably  is  new; 
to-morrow  will  tell.  I  bought  seven  Newfoundland  dogs 
for  seventeen  dollars ;  now  I  shall  be  able  to  fulfil  my 
promises  to  friends.  The  American  Bittern  breeds  here, 
and  leaves  in  about  two  weeks  hence. 

August  18.  At  daylight  the  wind  was  fair,  and  though 
cloudy,  we  broke  our  anchorage,  and  at  five  were  under 
way.  We  coasted  Newfoundland  till  evening,  when  the 
wind  blew  a  gale  from  the  southwest,  and  a  regular 
tempest  set  in.  Our  vessel  was  brought  to  at  dusk,  and 
we  danced  and  kicked  over  the  waves  all  evening,  and  will 
do  so  all  night. 

August  19.     The  storm  still  continues,  without  any  sign 
of  abating ;  we  are  still  at  anchor,  tossed  hither  and  thither,  j 
and  withal  sea-sick. 


Tfn 


THE  LABRADOR  JOURNAL 


435 


Labrador,  the 
d,  and  no  hard 
t  they  are  now 

hing  the  deep" 
ere  we  still  are  in 
:s  of  alder  to  my 
had  a  visit  from 
lis  famous  island 
Led  Indians  were 
,'ere  seen  twenty- 
ive  no  quarter  to 
es,  they   cut  the 
to  the  wild  beasts 
en  Plovers  passed 
pontarina  came  in 
It  no  Crows  have 
DUth  by  thousands, 
s  seen.     A  young 
t,  full   grown  and 
\e  head,     h  Mus- 
probably  is  new; 
:ewfoundland  dogs 
.  able  to  fulfil  my 
littern  breeds  here, 

as  fair,  and  though 
kt  five  were  under 
[evening,  when  the 
Ut,  and  a  regular 
tht  to  at  dusk,  and 
\\\  evening,  and  will  I 

^s,  without  any  sign 
hither  and  thither, 


August  21.  To-day  the  storm  ceased,  but  the  wind 
is  still  so  adverse  that  we  could  make  no  port  of  New- 
foundland ;  towards  this  island  we  steered,  for  none  of 
us  wished  to  return  to  Labrador.  We  tried  to  enter 
the  Strait  of  Canseau,  but  the  wind  failed  us;  while  the 
vessel  lay  becalmed  we  decided  to  try  to  reach  Pictou 
in  Nova  Scotia  and  travel  by  land.  We  are  now  beating 
about  towards  that  port  and  hope  to  reach  it  early  to- 
morrow morning.  The  great  desire  we  all  have  to  see  Pic- 
tou, Halifax,  and  the  country  between  them  and  Eastport, 
is  our  inducement. 

August  22.     After  in  vain  attempting  to  reach   Pictou, 
we  concluded,  after  dinner,  that  myself  and  party  should  be 
put  ashore  anywhere,  and  the  "  Ripley "  should  sail  back 
towards  the  Straits  of  Canseau,  the  wind  and  tide  being 
favorable.     We  drank  a  glass  of  wine  to  our  wives  and 
our  friends,  and  our  excellent  little   captain   took  us  to 
the  shore,  while   the  vessel  stood  still,  with  all  sails  up, 
awaiting  his  return.     We  happened  to  land  on  an  island 
called  Ruy's  Island,  where,  fortunately  for  us,  we  found  some 
men  making  hay.     Two  of  these  we  engaged  to  carry  our 
trunks  and  two  of  the  party  to  this  place,  Pictou,  for  two 
dollars — truly  cheap.     Our  effects,  or   rather   those  we 
needed,  were  soon  put  up,  we  all  shook  hands  most  heartily 
with  the  captain  —  to  whom  we  now  feel  really  attached  — 
said  farewell  to  the  crew,  and  parted,  giving  three  hearty 
cheers.     We  were  now,  thanks  to  God,  positively  on  the 
mainland  of  our  native  country,  and  after  four  days  con- 
finement in  our  berths,  and  sick  of  sea-sickness,  the  I'.ea 
and  all  its  appurtenances,  we  felt  so  refreshed  that  the 
thought  of  walking  nine  miles  seemed  like  nothing  more 
than  dancing  a  quadrille.     The  air  felt  deliciously  warm, 
the  country,  compared  with  those  we  have  so  lately  left, 
appeared  perfectly  beautiful,  and  the  smell  of  the  new- 
mown  grass  was  the  sweetest  that  ever  existed.     Even  the 
music  of  the  crickets  was  delightful  to  mine  ears,  for  no 


&'">'• 


436 


AUDUBON 


'i''m 


such  insect  does  either  Labrador  or  Newfoundland  afford. 
The  voice  of  a  Bkie  Jay  was  melody  to  me,  and  the  sight 
of  a  Humming-bird  quite  filled  my  heart  with  delight 
We  were  conveyed  a  short  distance  from  the  island  to  the 
main ;  Ingalls  and  Coolidge  remained  in  the  boat,  and  the 
rest  of  us  took  the  road,  along  which  we  moved  as  lightly 
as  if  boys  just  out  of  school.  The  roads  were  good,  or 
seemed  to  be  so ;  the  woods  were  all  of  tall  timber,  and  the 
air  that  circulated  freely  was  filled  with  perfume.  Almost 
every  plant  we  saw  brought  to  mind  some  portion  of  the 
United  States ;  in  a  word,  all  of  us  felt  quite  happy.  Now 
and  then,  as  we  crossed  a  hill  and  looked  back  over  the 
sea,  we  saw  our  beautiful  vessel  sailing  freely  before  the 
wind,  and  as  she  gradually  neared  the  horizon,  she  looked 
like  a  white  speck,  or  an  Eagle  high  in  air.  We  wished 
our  captain  a  most  safe  voyage  to  Quoddy.  We  arrived 
opposite  Pictou  in  two  hours  and  a  half,  and  lay  down  on 
the  grass  to  await  the  a/rival  of  the  boat,  enjoying  the 
scenery  around  us.  A  number  of  American  vessels  were 
in  the  harbor,  loading  with  coal;  the  village,  placed  at 
the  upper  end  of  a  fine  bay,  looked  well,  though  small. 
Three  churches  rose  above  the  rest  of  the  buildings,  all  of 
which  are  of  wood,  and  several  vessels  were  on  the  stocks. 
The  whole  country  appeared  in  a  high  state  of  cultivation, 
and  looked  well;  the  population  is  about  two  thousand. 
Our  boat  came,  we  crossed  the  bay,  and  put  up  at  the 
*'  Royal  Oak,"  the  best  house,  and  have  had  what  seemed 
to  be,  after  our  recent  fare,  a  most  excellent  supper.  The 
very  treading  on  a  carpeted  floor  was  quite  wonderful. 
This  evening  we  called  on  Professor  McCullough,  who 
received  us  very  kindly,  gave  us  a  glass  of  wine,  showed 
his  fine  collection  of  well-preserved  birds  and  other  things, 
and  invited  us  to  breakfast  to-morrow  at  eight,  when  we 
are  again  to  inspect  his  curiosities.  The  Professor's 
mansion  is  a  quarter  of  a  mile  out  of  town,  and  looks  much 
like  a  small  English  villa. 


THE  LABRADOR  JOURNAL 


437 


undland  afford, 
e,  and  the  sight 
rt  with  delight 
:he  island  to  the 
le  boat,  and  the 
noved  as  lightly 
i  were  good,  or 
I  timber,  and  the 
irfume.    Almost 
iC  portion  of  the 
ite  happy-    Now 
d  back  over  the 
freely  before  the 
rizon,  she  looked 
air.     We  wished 
Idy.    We  arrived 
,  and  lay  down  on 
oat,  enjoying  the 
rican  vessels  were 
[Village,  placed  at 
ell,  though  small. 
le  buildings,  all  of 
^ere  on  the  stocks, 
tate  of  cultivation, 
3ut  two  thousand, 
ind  put  up  at  the 
:  had  what  seemed 
lent  supper.    The 
s  quite  wonderful. 
McCullough,  who 
iS  of  wine,  showed 
Is  and  other  things, 
at  eight,  when  we 
The    Professor's 
vn,  and  looks  much! 


August  23.  We  had  an  excellent  Scotch  breakfast  at 
Professor  McCullough's.  His  whole  family  were  present, 
four  sons  and  a  daughter,  besides  his  wife  and  her  sister. 
I  became  more  pleased  with  the  professor  the  more  he 
talked.  I  showed  a  few  Labrador  drawings,  after  which 
we  went  in  a  body  to  the  University,  once  more  to  examine 
his  fine  collection.  I  found  there  half  a  dozen  specimens 
of  birds  which  I  longed  for  and  said  so;  the  Professor  had 
the  cases  opened,  the  specimens  taken  out,  and  he  ofifered 
them  to  me  with  so  much  apparent  good  will  that  I  took 
them.  He  then  asked  me  to  look  around  and  not  to  leave 
any  object  which  might  be  of  assistance  in  my  publica- 
tion ;  but  so  generous  had  he  already  proved  himself  that 
I  remained  mute;  I  saw  several  I  would  have  liked  to  have, 
but  I  could  not  mention  them.  He  offered  me  all  his  fresh- 
water shells,  and  any  minerals  I  might  choose.  I  took  a 
few  specimens  of  iron  and  copper.  I  am  much  surprised 
that  this  valuable  collection  is  aot  purchased  by  the 
government  of  the  Province ;  he  offered  it  for  ;^500.  I 
think  it  well  worth  ^1,000.  Thou  wilt  say  I  am  an 
enthusiast;  to  this  I  will  reply  —  True,  but  there  are  many 
more  in  the  world,  particularly  in  Europe.  On  our  return 
to  the  "  Royal  Oak  "  we  were  called  on  by  Mr.  Blanchard, 
the  deputy  consul  for  the  United  States,  an  agreeable  man, 
who  offered  to  do  whatever  he  could  for  us ;  but  the  coach 
was  almost  ready,  our  birds  were  packed,  our  bill  paid,  and 
the  coach  rolled  off.  I  walked  on  ahead  with  Mr.  Blan- 
chard for  about  a  mile;  he  spoke  much  of  England,  and 
knew  John  Adamson  of  Newcastle  and  other  friends  there. 
The  coach  came  up,  and  we  said  farewell.  The  wind  had 
commenced  to  blow,  and  soon  rain  fell  heavily;  we  went 
on  smoothly,  the  road  being  as  good  as  any  in  England, 
and  broader.  We  passed  through  a  fine  tract  of  country, 
well  wooded,  well  cultivated,  and  a  wonderful  relief  to  our 
eyes  after  the  barren  and  desolate  regions  of  rocks,  snow, 
tempests,  and  storms.    We  stopped  to  dine  at  four  in  the 


T 


438 


AUDUBON 


11 


afternoon  at  a  wayside  house.  The  rain  poured  down ;  two 
ladies  and  a  gentleman  —  the  husband  of  one  of  them  — 
had  arrived  before  us  in  an  open  cart,  or  "  jersey,"  and  I, 
with  all  the  gallantry  of  my  nature,  at  once  offered  to 
change  vehicles  with  them.  They  accepted  the  exchange 
at  once,  but  did  not  even  thank  us  in  return.  Shattuck, 
Ingalls,  and  I  jumped  into  the  open  cart  when  dinner  was 
ended.  I  was  seated  by  a  very  so-so  Irish  dame  named 
Katy ;  her  husband  was  our  driver.  Our  exchange  proved 
a  most  excellent  one :  the  weather  cleared  up ;  we  saw  the 
country  much  better  than  we  could  have  done  in  the  coach. 
To  our  surprise  we  were  suddenly  passed  by  Professor 
McCullough,  who  said  he  would  see  us  at  Truro.  Towards 
sunset  we  arrived  in  view  of  this  pretty,  scattered  vil- 
lage, in  sight  of  the  head  waters  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy. 
What  a  delightful  sensation  at  that  moment  ran  through 
my  frame,  as  I  realized  that  I  was  within  a  few  days  of 
home !  We  reached  the  tavern,  or  hotel,  or  whatever 
else  the  house  of  stoppage  might  be  called,  but  as  only 
three  of  us  could  be  accommodated  there  we  went  across 
the  street  to  another.  Professor  McCullough  came  in  and 
introduced  us  to  several  members  of  the  Assembly  of  this 
Province,  and  I  was  handed  several  pinches  of  snuff  by  the 
Professor,  who  loves  it.  We  tried  in  vain  to  obtain  a  con- 
veyance for  ourselves  to-morrow  morning  instead  of  going 
by  coach  to-night ;  it  could  not  be  done.  Professor  McCul- 
lough then  took  me  to  the  house  of  Samuel  George  Archi- 
bald, Esq.,  Speaker  of  the  Assembly,  who  introduced  me 
to  his  wife  and  handsome  young  daughter.  I  showed 
them  a  few  drawings,  and  received  a  letter  from  Mr. 
Archibald  to  the  Chief  Justice  of  Halifax,  and  now  we  are 
waiting  for  the  mail  coach  to  proceed  to  that  place. 
The  village  of  Truro  demands  a  few  words.  It  is  situated 
in  the  middle  of  a  most  beautiful  valley,  of  great  extent 
and  well  cultivated ;  several  brooks  water  this  valley,  and 
empty  into  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  the  broad  expanse  of  which 


'"19 


THE  LABRADOR  JOURNAL 


439 


;d  down ;  two 
le  of  them  — 
:rsey,"  and  I, 
ce  offered  to 
the  exchange 
•n.     Shattuck, 
ten  dinner  was 
dame  named 
change  proved 
ip ;  we  saw  the 
le  in  the  coach, 
cl  by  Professor 
ruro.    Towards 
r,  scattered  vil- 
Bay  of  Fundy. 
:nt  ran  through 
1  a  few  days  of 
el,  or  whatever 
led,  but  as  only 
;  we  went  across 
ugh  came  in  and 
\ssembly  of  this 
;s  of  snuff  by  the 
to  obtain  a  con- 
instead  of  going 
Professor  McCul- 
lel  George  Archi- 
lo  introduced  me 
rhter.     I   showed 
letter  from  Mr. 
.,  and  now  we  are 
;d  to  that  place, 
■ds.     It  is  situated 
yr,  of  great  extent 
;r  this  valley,  and 
expanse  of  which 


we  see  to  the  westward.  The  buildings,  though  principally 
of  wood,  are  good-looking,  and  as  cleanly  as  those  in  our 
pretty  eastern  villages,  white,  with  green  shutters.  The 
style  of  the  people,  be  it  loyal  or  otherwise,  is  extremely 
genteel,  and  I  was  more  than  pleased  with  all  those  whom 
I  saw.  The  coach  is  at  the  door,  the  cover  of  my  trunk  is 
gaping  to  receive  this  poor  book,  and  therefore  once  more, 
good-night. 

August  24,  Wind  due  east,  hauling  to  the  northeast, 
good  for  the  "  Ripley."  We  are  now  at  Halifax  in  Nova 
Scotia,  but  let  me  tell  thee  how  and  in  what  manner  we 
reached  it.  It  was  eleven  last  night  when  we  seated  our- 
selves in  the  coach ;  the  night  was  beautiful,  and  the  moon 
shone  brightly.  We  could  only  partially  observe  the 
country  until  the  morning  broke;  but  the  road  we  can 
swear  was  hilly,  and  our  horses  lazy,  or  more  probably 
very  poor.  After  riding  twenty  miles,  we  stopped  a  good 
hour  to  change  horses  and  warm  ourselves.  John  went  to 
sleep,  but  the  rest  of  us  had  some  supper,  served  by  a 
very  handsome  country  girl.  At  the  call,  "  Coach  ready !  " 
we  jumped  in,  and  had  advanced  perhaps  a  mile  and  a  half 
when  the  linch-pin  broke,  and  there  we  were  at  a  stand- 
still. Ingalls  took  charge  of  the  horses,  and  responded 
with  great  energy  to  the  calls  of  the  owls  that  came  from 
the  depths  of  the  woods,  where  they  were  engaged  either 
at  praying  to  Diana  or  at  calling  to  their  parents,  frien .^s, 
and  distant  relations.  John,  Lincoln,  and  Shattuck,  always 
ready  for  a  nap,  made  this  night  no  exception ;  Coolidgt 
and  I,  not  trusting  altogether  to  Ingalls*  wakefulness,  kep' 
awake  and  prayed  to  be  shortly  delivered  from  this  mo.  '■ 
disagreeable  of  travelling  experiences,  detention  —  at  all 
times  to  be  avoided  if  possibh  d  certainly  to  be  dreaded 
on  a  chilly  night  in  this  latitude.  Looking  up  the  road,  the 
vacillating  glimmer  of  the  flame  intended  to  assist  the  coach- 
man in  the  recovery  of  the  lost  linch-pin  was  all  that  could 
be  distinguished,  for  by  this  the  time  was  what  is  called 


ifc 


il; 

-.   -. 

41' 

Hd 

440 


AUDUBON 


"  wolfy."  The  man  returned,  put  out  the  pine-knot  —  the 
linch-pin  could  not  be  found  —  and  another  quarter  of 
an  hour  was  spent  in  repairing  with  all  sorts  of  odds  and 
ends.  How  much  longer  Ingalls  could,  or  would,  have 
held  the  horses,  we  never  asked  him,  as  from  different 
exclamations  we  heard  him  utter  we  thought  it  well  to  be 
silent  on  that  subject.  The  day  dawned  fair  and  beautiful. 
I  ran  a  mile  or  so  ahead  of  the  coach  to  warm  my  feet,  and 
afterwards  sat  by  the  driver  to  obtain,  if  possible,  some 
information  about  the  country,  which  became  poorer  and 
poorer  as  our  journey  proceeded.  We  were  all  very 
hungry,  and  were  told  the  "  stc^nd"  stood  twenty-five  miles 
from  the  lost  linch-pin.  I  asked  our  driver  to  stop  wher- 
ever he  thought  we  could  procure  a  dozen  or  so  of  hard- 
boiled  eggs  and  some  coffee,  or  indeed  anything  eatable; 
so  he  drew  up  at  a  house  where  the  owner  looked  us  over, 
and  said  it  would  be  quite  impossible  to  provide  a  break- 
fast for  six  persons  of  our  appearance.  We  passed  on  and 
soon  came  on  the  track  of  a  tolerably  large  bear,  tn  the 
road,  and  at  last  reached  the  breakfast  ground  at  a  house 
on  the  margin  of  Green  Lake,  a  place  where  fish  and  game, 
in  the  season,  abound.  This  lake  forms  part  of  the  channel 
which  was  intended  to  be  cut  for  connecting  by  canal  the 
Atlantic,  the  Baie  of  Fundy,  and  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence, 
at  Bay  Verte.  Ninety  thousand  pounds  have  been  ex- 
pended, but  the  canal  is  not  finished,  and  probably  never 
will  be;  for  we  are  told  the  government  will  not  assist  the 
company  by  which  it  was  undertaken,  and  private  spirit  is 
slumbering.  We  had  an  excellent  breakfast  at  this  house, 
seventeen  miles  from  Halifax ;  this  place  would  be  a  most 
delightful  summer  residence.  The  road  was  now  level,  but 
narrow  ;  the  flag  of  the  Halifax  garrison  was  seen  when  two 
miles  distant.  Suddenly  we  turned  short,  and  stopped  at  a 
gate  fronting  a  wharf,  where  was  a  small  ferry-boat.  Here 
we  were  detained  nearly  an  hour;  how  would  this  work  in 
the   States?    Why  did  Mrs,  TroUope  not  visit  Halifax? 


V-  rr.i 


THE  LABRADOR  JOURNAL 


441 


ne-knot  — the 
er   quarter  of 
s  of  odds  and 
r  would,  have 
from   different 
it  it  well  to  be 
r  and  beautiful, 
m  my  feet,  and 
possible,  some 
me  poorer  and 
were   all  very 
A^enty-five  miles 
;r  to  stop  wher- 
[I  or  so  of  hard- 
lything  eatable; 
•  looked  us  over, 
provide  a  break- 
/•e  passed  on  and 
arge  bear,  in  the 
lound  at  a  house 
re  fish  and  game, 
irt  of  the  channel 
;ing  by  canal  the 
of  St.  Lawrence, 
have  been  ex- 
probably  never 
rill  not  assist  the 
private  spirit  is 
fast  at  this  house, 
would  be  a  most 
/as  now  level,  but 
as  seen  when  two 
and  stopped  at  a 
;erry-boat.    Here 
fould  this  work  in 
,ot  visit  Halifax? 


The  number  of  beggarly-looking  negroes  and  negresses 
would  have  afforded  her  ample  scope  for  contemplation 
and  description.  We  crossed  the  harbor,  in  which  rode  a 
sixty-foi'r-gun  flag-ship,  and  arrived  at  the  house  of  one 
Mr.  Paul.  This  was  the  best  hotel  in  Halifax,  yet  with 
great  difficulty  we  obtained  one  room  with  four  beds,  but 
no  private  parlor  —  which  we  thought  necessary.  With  a 
population  of  eighteen  thousand  souls,  and  just  now  two 
thousand  soldiers  added  to  these,  Halifax  has  not  one 
go'^d  hotel,  for  here  the  attendance  is  miserable,  and  the 
table  far  from  good.  We  have  walked  about  to  see  the 
town,  and  all  have  aching  feet  and  leg- bones  in  con- 
sequence of  walking  on  hard  ground  after  tramping  only 
on  the  softest,  deepest  mosses  for  two  months. 

August  ^5.  I  rose  at  four  and  wrote  to  thee  and  Dr. 
Parkman ;  ^  Shattuck  wrote  to  his  father,  and  he  and  I  took 
these  letters  to  an  English  schooner  bound  to  Boston.  I 
was  surprised  to  find  every  wharf  gated,  the  gates  locked 
and  barred,  and  sentinels  at  every  point.  I  searched  every- 
where for  a  barber;  they  do  not  here  shave  on  Sunday; 
finally,  by  dint  of  begging,  and  assuring  the  man  that  I 
was  utterly  unacquainted  with  the  laws  of  Halifax,  being  a 
stranger,  my  long  beard  was  cut  at  last.  Four  of  us  went 
to  church  where  the  Bishop  read  and  preached ;  the  soldiers 
are  divided  up  among  the  different  churches  and  attend  in 
full  uniform.  This  afternoon  we  saw  a  military  burial ;  this 
was  a  grand  sight.  The  soldiers  walked  far  apart,  with 
arms  reversed ;  an  excellent  band  executed  the  most  solemn 
marches  and  a  fine  anthem.  I  gave  my  letters  from  Boston 
to  Mr.  Tremaine,  an  amiable  gentleman. 

August  26.  This  day  has  been  spent  in  writing  letters 
to  thyself,  Nicholas  Berthoud,  John  Bachman,  and  Edward 
Harris ;  to  the  last  I  have  written  a  long  letter  describing 
all  our  voyage.    I  took  the  letters  to  the  "  Cordelia  "  packet, 

1  Dr.  George  Parkman,  of  Boston,  who  was  murdered  by  Professor  J.  W. 
Webster  in  Boston,  November  23,  1849. 


^m 


442 


AUDUBON 


.11 


which  sails  on  Wednesday,  and  may  reach  Boston  before 
we  do.  I  delivered  my  letters  to  Bishop  Inglis  and  the 
Chief-Justice,  but  were  assured  both  were  out,  John  and 
ingalls  spent  their  evening  very  agreeably  with  Commissary 
Hewitson. 

August  27.  Breakfast  eaten  and  bill  paid,  we  entered 
the  coach  at  nine  o'clock,  which  would  only  contain  five,  so 
though  it  rained  one  of  us  sat  with  the  driver.  The  road 
between  Halifax  and  Windsor,  where  we  now  are,  is  mac- 
adamized and  good,  over  hills  and  through  valleys,  and 
though  the  distance  is  forty-five  miles,  we  had  only  one 
pair  of  horses,  which  nevertheless  travelled  about  six  and 
a  half  miles  an  hour.  Nine  miles  of  our  road  lay  along 
the  Bay  of  Halifax,  and  was  very  pleasant.  Here  and  there 
a  country  home  came  in  sight.  Our  driver  told  us  that  a 
French  squadron  was  pursued  by  an  English  fleet  to  the 
head  of  this  bay,  and  the  seven  French  vessels  were  com- 
pelled to  strike  their  colors  ;  but  the  French  commodore  or 
admiral  sunk  all  his  vessels,  preferring  this  to  surrendering 
them  to  the  British.  So  deep  was  the  water  that  the  very 
tops  of  the  masts  sank  far  out  of  sight,  and  once  only 
since  that  time,  twenty  years  ago,  have  they  been  seen; 
this  was  on  an  unusually  calm,  clear  day  seven  years  past. 
We  saw  en  passant  the  abandoned  lodge  of  Prince  Edward, 
who  spent  a  million  pounds  on  the  building,  grounds,  etc. 
The  whole  now  is  in  the  greatest  state  of  ruin ;  thirty  years 
have  gone  by  since  it  was  in  its  splendor.  On  leaving  the 
bay,  we  followed  the  Salmon  River,  a  small  rivulet  of  swift 
water,  which  abounds  in  salmon,  trout,  and  other  fish.  The 
whole  country  is  miserably  poor,  yet  much  cultivation  is 
seen  all  the  way.  Much  game  and  good  fishing  was  to  be 
had  round  the  inn  where  we  dined ;  the  landlord  said  his 
terms  were  five  dollars  a  week,  and  it  would  be  a  pleasant 
summer  residence.  We  passed  the  seat  of  Mr.  Jefifries, 
President  of  the  Assembly,  now  Acting  Governor.  The 
house  is  large  and  the  grounds  in  fine  order.   It  is  between 


THE  LABRADOR  JOURNAL 


443 


ston  before 
;lis  and  the 
John  and 
Commissary 

^  we  entered 
ntain  five,  so 
.    The  road 
are,  is  mac- 
t  valleys,  and 
had  only  one 
ibout  six  and 
Dad  lay  along 
I  ere  and  there 
old  us  that  a 
h  fleet  to  the 
sels  were  corn- 
commodore  or 
:o  surrendering 
r  that  the  very 
ind   once  only 
ley  been  seen; 
ven  years  past. 
Prince  Edward, 
g,  grounds,  etc. 
Tn;  thirty  years 
On  leaving  the 
.  rivulet  of  swift 
lotherfish.  The 
h  cultivation  is 
ishing  was  to  be 
tndlord  said  his 
id  be  a  pleasant 
of  Mr.  Jeffries, 
overnor.    The 
r.   It  is  between 


two  handsome  fresh-water  lakes;  indeed,  the  country  is 
covered  with  lakes,  all  of  which  are  well  supplied  with  trout. 
We  saw  the  college  and  the  common  school,  built  of  free- 
stone, both  handsome  buildings.     We  crossed  the  head  of 
the  St.  Croix  River,  which  rolls  its  impetuous  waters  into 
the  Bay  of  Fundy.   From  here  to  Windsor  the  country  im- 
proved rapidly  and  the  crops  looked  well.     Windsor  is  a 
neat,  pretty  village ;  the  vast  banks  of  plaster  of  Paris  all 
about  it  give  employment  to  the  inhabitants  and  bring 
wealth  to  the  place;  it  is  shipped  from  here  in  large  quar*- 
tities.     Our  coach  stopped  at  the  best  boarding-house  here, 
for  nowhere  in  the  Provinces  have  we  heard  of  hotels ;  the 
house  was  full  and  we  were  conveyed  to  another,  where, 
after  more  than  two  hours'  delay,  we  had  a  very  indifferent 
supper.     Meantime  we  walked  to  see  the  Windsor  River, 
on  the  east  bank  of  which  the  village  is  situated.     The 
view  was  indeed  novel;  the  bed  of  the  river,  nearly   a 
mile  wide   and  quite  bare  as  far  as  eye  could  reach, — 
about  ten  miles.     Scarcely  any  water  to  be  seen,  and  yet 
the  spot  where  we  stood,  sixty-five  feet  above  the  river  bed, 
showed  that  at  high  tide  this  wonderful  basin  must  be  filled 
to  the  brim.     Opposite  to  us,  indeed,  the  country  is  diked 
in,  and  veasels  left  dry  at  the  wharves  had  a  strange  appear- 
ance.   We  are  told  that  there  have  been  instances  when 
vessels  have  slid  sidewise  from  the  top  of  the  bank  to  the 
level  of  the  gravelly  bed  of  the  river.     The  shores  are 
covered  for  a  hundred  yards  with  mud  of  a  reddish  color. 
This  conveys  more  the  idea  of  a  flood  or  great  freshet 
than  the  result  of  tide,  and  I  long  to  see  the  waters  of  the 
ocean  advancing  at  the  rate  of  four  knots   an    hour  to 
fill  this  extraordinary  basin;   this  sight  I  hope  to  enjoy 
to-morrow. 

August  28.     I  can  now  say  that  I  have  seen  the  tide 
waters  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy  rise  sixty-five  feet.^    We  were 
*  See  Episode,  "  The  Bay  of  Fundy. 


fi 


'!ii!l 


444 


AUDUBON 


seated  on  one  of  the  wharves  and  saw  the  mass  of  water 
accumulating  with  a  rapidity  I  cannot  describe.  At  half- 
flow  the  water  rose  three  feet  in  ten  minutes,  but  it  is  even 
more  rapid  than  this.  A  few  minutes  after  its  greatest 
height  is  attained  it  bej^ins  to  recede,  and  in  a  few  hours 
the  whole  bed  of  the  river  is  again  emptied.  We  rambled 
over  the  beautiful  meadows  and  fields,  and  John  shot  two 
Marsh  Hawks,  one  of  each  sex,  and  we  saw  many  more. 
These  birds  here  are  much  darker  above  and  much  deeper 
rufous  below,  than  any  I  ever  procured  in  the  Middle 
States  or  farther  south.  Indeed,  it  may  be  said  that  the 
farther  north  I  have  been,  the  deeper  in  tint  have  I  found 
the  birds.  The  steamboat  has  just  arri  ed,  and  the  young 
men  have  been  on  board  to  secure  our  passage.  No  news 
from  the  States. 

Eastporty  Maine,  August  31.  We  arrived  here  yesterday 
afternoon  in  the  steamer  "  Maid  of  the  Mist."  We  left 
Windsor  shortly  before  twelve  noon,  and  reached  St, 
John's,  New  Brunswick,  at  two  o'clock  at  night.  Passed 
"  Cape  Blow-me-down,"  "  Cape  Split,"  and  "  Cape  d'Or." 
We  were  very  comfortable,  as  there  were  few  passengers, 
but  the  price  was  sufficient  for  all  we  had,  and  more.  We 
perambulated  the  streets  of  St.  John's  by  moonlight,  and 
when  the  shops  opened  I  purchased  two  suits  of  excellent 
stuff  for  shooting  garments.  At  the  wharf,  just  as  the 
steamer  was  about  to  leave,  I  had  the  great  pleasure  of 
meeting  my  most  excellent  friend  Edward  Harris,  who  gave 
me  a  letter  from  thee,  and  the  first  intelligence  from  the 
big  world  we  have  left  for  two  months.  Here  we  were 
kindly  received  by  all  our  acquaintance ;  our  trunks  were 
not  opened,  and  the  new  clothes  paid  no  duties  ;  this  ought 
to  be  the  case  with  poor  students  of  nature  all  over  the 
world.  We  gave  up  the  "  Ripley "  to  Messrs.  Buck  and 
Tinkham,  took  up  our  quarters  with  good  Mr.  Weston,  and 
all  began  packing  immediately. 


THE  LABRADOR  JOURNAL 


44S 


nass  of  water 
ibe.     At  half- 

but  it  is  even 
;r  its  greatest 
n  a  few  hours 
We  rambled 
[ohn  shot  two 
w  many  more. 
d  much  deeper 

in  the  Middle 
;  said  that  the 
\t  have  I  found 

arid  the  young 
sage.    No  news 

A  here  yesterday 
Mist."     We  left 
and   reached  St. 
Lt  night.    Passed 
kd  "  Cape  d'Or." 
I  few  passengers, 
,  and  more.    We 
y  moonlight,  and 
suits  of  excellent 
harf,  just  as  the 
great  pleasure  of 
[  Harris,  who  gave 
[uigence  from  the 
Here  we  were 
our  trunks  were 
.uties  ;  this  ought 
iture  all  over  the 
Messrs.  Buck  and 
,d  Mr.  Weston,  and 


We  reached  New  York  on  Saturday  morning,  the  7th  of 
September,  and,  thank  God,  found  all  well.  Whilst  at 
Boston  I  wrote  several  letters,  one  very  long  one  to 
Thomas  Nuttall,  in  which  I  gave  him  some  account  of 
the  habits  of  water-birds  with  which  he  was  unacquainted ; 
he  sent  me  an  extremely  kind  letter  in  answer. 


..  I 


Jill 


TH 


THE  MISSOURI  RIVER  JOURNALS 

1843 


INTRODUCTION 

HTHIS  journey,  which  occupied  within  a  few  days 
■^  of  eight  months,  —  from  March  ii,  1843,  to 
November  6  of  the  same  year,  —  was  undertaken  in 
the  interest  of  the  "  Quadrupeds  of  North  America," 
in  which  the  three  Audubons  and  Dr.  Bachman 
were  then  deeply  engaged.  The  journey  has  been 
only  briefly  touched  upon  in  former  publications, 
and  the  entire  record  from  August  16  until  the 
return  home  was  lost  in  the  back  of  an  old  secretary 
from  the  time  of  Audubon's  return  in  November, 
1843,  until  August,  1896,  when  two  of  his  grand- 
daughters found  it.  Mrs.  Audubon  states  in  her 
narrative  that  no  record  of  this  part  of  the  trip 
was  known  to  exist,  and  none  of  the  family  now 
living  had  ever  seen  it  until  the  date  mentioned. 
Not  only  is  the  diary  most  valuable  from  the 
point  of  view  of  the  naturalist,  but  also  from  that 
of  the  historian   interested  in  the   frontier  life  of 

those  days. 

M.  R.  A. 


TOL.   I. — 29 


450 


INTRODUCTION. 


As  the  only  account  of  the  journey  from  New 
York  to  St.  Louis  which  can  now  be  found  is 
contained  in  a  letter  to  my  uncle  Mr.  James  Hall, 
dated  St.  Louis,  March  29,  1843,  the  iollowing 
extract  is  given:  — 

"  The  weather  has  been  bad  ever  since  we  left  Baltimore. 
There  we  encountered  a  snow-storm  that  accompanied  us 
all  the  way  to  this  very  spot,  and  at  this  moment  the 
country  is  whitened  with  this  precious,  semi-congealed, 
heavenly  dew.  As  to  ice  !  —  I  wish  it  were  all  in  your  ice- 
house when  summer  does  come,  should  summer  show  her 
bright  features  in  the  year  of  our  Lord  1843.  We  first 
encountered  ice  at  Wheeling,  and  it  has  floated  down  the 
Ohio  all  around  us,  as  well  as  up  the  Mississippi  to  pleas- 
ant St.  Louis.  And  such  a  steamer  as  we  have  come  in 
from  Louisville  here! — the  very  filthiest  of  all  filthy  old 
rat-traps  I  ever  travelled  in ;  and  the  fare  worse,  certainly 
much  worse,  and  so  scanty  withal  that  our  worthy  com- 
mander could  not  have  given  us  another  meal  had  we  been 
detained  a  night  longer.  I  wrote  a  famous  long  letter  to 
my  Lucy  on  the  subject,  and  as  I  know  you  will  hear  it, 
will  not  repeit  the  account  of  our  situation  on  board  the 
'Gallant'—  't  pretty  name,  too,  but  alas!  her  name,  like 
mine,  is  only  a  sh.^.dow,  for  as  she  struck  a  sawyer  ^  one 
night  we  all  ran  iike  mad  to  make  ready  to  leap  overboard; 
but  as  God  would  have  it,  our  lives  and  the  'Gallant,' 
were  spared  —  she  from  sinking,  and  we  from  swim- 
ming amid  rolling  and  crashing  hard  ice.  The  ladies 
screamed,  the  babies  squalled,  the  dogs  yelled,  the  steam 
roared,  the  captain  (who,  by  the  way,  is  a  very  gallant 

1  A  fallen  tree  that  rests  on  the  root  end  at  the  bottom  of  a  stream 
or  river,  and  sways  up  or  down  with  the  current. 


INTRODUCTION. 


451 


yT  from  New 
be  found  is 
James  Hall, 
tie  joUowing 

left  Baltimore, 
ccompanied  us 
is  moment  the 
semi-congealed, 
I  all  in  your  ice- 
mmer  show  her 
1843.     We  first 
loated  down  the 
iissippi  to  pleas- 
;e  have  come  in 
t  of  all  filthy  old 
p  worse,  certainly 
)ur  worthy  com- 
neal  had  we  been 
us  long  letter  to 
you  will  hear  it, 
ion  on  board  the 
!  her  name,  like 
;k  a  sawyer  ^  one 
leap  overboard; 
nd  the  'Gallant,' 
we    from  swim- 
;e.      THE  LADIES 
yelled,  the  steam 
is  a  very  gallant 
^e  bottom  of  a  stream 


man)  swore  —  not  like  an  angel,  but  like  the  very  devil 
—  and  all  was  confusion  and  uproar,  just  as  if  Miller's 
prophecy  had  actually  been  nigh.  Luckily,  we  had  had 
our  supper,  as  the  thing  was  called  on  board  the  '  Gallant,' 
and  every  man  appeared  to  feel  resolute,  if  not  resolved 
to  die. 

"  I  would  have  given  much  at  that  moment  for  a  picture 
of  the  whole.  Our  compagnons  de  voyage,  about  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty,  were  composed  of  Buckeyes,  Wolverines, 
Suckers,  Hoosiers,  and  gamblers,  with  drunkards  of  each 
and  every  denomination,  their  ladies  and  babies  of  the 
same  nature,  and  specifically  the  dirtiest  of  the  dirty.  We 
had  to  dip  the  water  for  washing  from  the  river  in  tin 
basins,  soap  ourselves  all  from  the  same  cake,  and  wipe 
the  one  hundred  and  fifty  with  the  same  solitary  one  towel 
rolling  over  a  pin,  until  it  would  have  been  difficult  to  say, 
even  with  your  keen  eyes,  whether  it  was  manufactured  of 
hemp,  tow,  flax,  or  cotton.  My  bed  had  two  sheets,  of 
course,  measuring  seven-eighths  of  a  yard  wide ;  my  pillow 
was  filled  with  corn-shucks.  Harris  fared  even  worse  than 
I,  and  our  '  state-room  '  was  evidently  better  fitted  for  the 
smoking  of  hams  than  the  smoking  of  Christians.  When 
it  rained  outside,  it  rained  also  within,  and  on  one  partic- 
ular morning,  when  the  snow  melted  on  the  upper  deck, 
or  roof,  it  was  a  lively  scene  to  see  each  person  seeking 
for  a  spot  free  from  the  many  spouts  overhead. 

"  We  are  at  the  Glasgow  Hotel,  and  will  leave  it  the  day 
after  to-morrow,  as  it  is  too  good  for  our  purses.  We  in- 
tended to  hnve  gone  twenty  miles  in  Illinois  to  Edwards- 
ville,  but  have  changed  our  plans,  and  will  go  northwest 
sixteen  miles  to  Florissant,  where  we  are  assured  game  is 
plenty,  and  the  living  quite  cheap.  We  do  not  expect  to 
leave  this  till  the  20th  or  22d  of  April,  and  should  you  feel 


452 


INTRODUCTION. 


inclined  to  write  to  me,  do  so  by  return  of  mail,  if  pos- 
sible, and  I  may  get  your  letter  before  I  leave  this  for  the 
Yellowstone. 

"  The  markets  here  abound  with  all  the  good  things  of 
the  land,  and  of  nature's  creation.  To  give  you  an  idea 
of  this,  read  the  following  items :  Grouse,  two  for  a  York 
shilling;  three  chickens  for  the  same;  Turkeys,  wild  or 
tame,  25  cents;  flour  $2.00  a  barrel;  butter,  sixpence  for 
the  best  —  fresh,  and  really  good.  Beef,  3  to  4  cents ; 
veal,  the  same;  pork,  2  cents;  venison  hams,  large  and 
dried,  15  cents  each;  potatoes,  10  cents  a  bushel;  Ducks, 
three  for  a  shilling ;  Wild  Geese,  10  cents  each;  Canvas- 
back  Ducks,  a  shilling  a  pair ;  vegetables  for  the  asking, 
as  it  were ;  and  only  think,  in  the  midst  of  this  abundance 
and  cheapness,  we  are  paying  at  the  rate  of  $9.00  per 
week  at  our  hotel,  the  Glasgow,  and  at  the  Planters  we 
were  asked  $10.00. 

"  I  have  been  extremely  kindly  received  and  treated  by 
Mr.  Chouteau  and  partners.  Mr.  Sire,  the  gentleman  who 
will  command  the  steamer  we  go  in,  is  one  of  the  finest- 
looking  men  I  have  seen  for  many  a  day,  and  the  accounts 
I  hear  o^  him  correspond  with  his  noble  face  and  general 
appearance." 


*  mail,  if  pos- 
ve  this  for  the 


good  things  of 
■e  you  an  idea 
two  for  a  York 
irkeys,  wild  or 
:r,  sixpence  for 
3  to  4  cents; 
ams,  large  and 
bushel;  Ducks, 
each;  Canvas- 
for  the  asking, 
■  this  abundance 

te  of  $9-00  P^"^ 
the  Planters  we 

1  and  treated  by 
;  gentleman  who 
,ne  of  the  finest- 
land  the  accounts 
face  and  general 


THE   MISSOURI   RIVER  JOURNALS 

1843 


I  LEFT  home  at  ten  o'clock  of  the  morning,  on  Satur- 
day the  nth  of  March,  1843,  accompanied  by  my  son 
Victor.  I  left  all  well,  and  I  trust  in  God  for  the  privilege 
and  happiness  of  rejoining  them  all  some  time  next  autumn, 
when  I  hope  to  return  from  the  Yellowstone  River,  an 
expedition  undertaken  solely  for  the  sake  of  our  work  on 
the  Quadrupeds  of  North  America.  The  day  was  cold,  but 
the  sun  was  shining,  and  after  having  visited  a  few  friends 
in  the  city  of  New  York,  we  departed  for  Philadelphia  in 
the  cars,  and  reached  that  place  at  eleven  of  the  night. 
As  I  was  about  landing,  I  was  touched  on  the  shoulder  by 
a  tall,  robust-looking  man,  whom  I  knew  not  to  be  a  sherif)*, 
but  in  fact  my  good  friend  Jediah  Irish,^  of  the  Great 
Pine  Swamp.  I  also  met  my  friend  Edward  Harris,  who, 
with  old  John  G.  Bell,''  Isaac  Sprague,  and  young  Lewis 
Squires,  are  to  be  my  companions  for  this  campaign.  We 
all  put  up  at  Mr.  Sanderson's.  Sunday  was  spent  in 
visits  to  Mr.  Bowen,^  Dr.  Morton,*  and  others,  and  we  had 
many  calls  made  upon  us  at  the  hotel.  On  Monday  morn- 
ing we  took  the  cars  for  Baltimore,  and  Victor  returned 
home  to  Minniesland.  The  weather  was  rainy,  blustery, 
cold,  but  we  reached  Baltimore  in  time  to  eat  our  dinner 
there,  and  we  there  spent  the  afternoon  and  the  night. 

*  See  Episode  "  Great  Pine  Swamp." 

*  The  celebrated  taxidermist.    Born  Sparkhill,  New  York,  July  12,  l8i2, 
died  at  the  same  place,  October,  1879. 

'  J.  T.  Rowen,  Lithographer  of  the  Quad,  of  N.  A. 

*  Samuel  G.  Morton,  the  eminent  craniologist. 


i! 


illllll 


liiifti 


454 


AUDUBON 


I  saw  Gideon  B.  Smith  and  a  few  other  friends,  and  on  the 
next  morning  we  entered  the  cars  for  Cumberland,  which 
we  reached  the  same  evening  about  six.  Here  we  had  all 
our  effects  weighed,  and  were  charged  thirty  dollars  addi- 
tional weight  —  a  first-rate  piece  of  robbery.  We  went  on 
now  by  coaches,  entering  the  gap,  and  ascending  the  Alle- 
ghanies  amid  a  storm  of  snow,  which  kept  us  company  for 
about  forty  hours,  when  we  reached  Wheeling,  which  we 
left  on  the  i6th  of  March,  and  went  on  board  the  steamer, 
that  brought  us  to  Cincinnati  all  safe. 

We  saw  much  game  on  our  way,  such  as  Geese,  Ducks, 
etc.,  but  no  Turkeys  as  in  times  of  yore.  We  left  for 
Louisville  in  the  U.  S.  mail  steamer,  and  arrived  there  be- 
fore daylight  on  the  19th  inst.  My  companions  went  to 
the  Scott  House,  and  I  to  William  G.  Bakewell's,  whose 
home  I  reached  before  the  family  were  up.  I  remained 
there  four  days,  and  was,  of  course,  most  kindly  treated; 
and,  indeed,  during  my  whole  stay  in  this  city  of  my  youth 
I  did  enjoy  myself  famously  well,  with  dancing,  dinner- 
parties, etc.  We  left  for  St.  Louis  on  board  the  ever- 
to-be-remembered  steamer  "  Gallant,"  and  after  having 
been  struck  by  a  log  which  did  not  send  us  to  the  bottom, 
arrived  on  the  28th  of  March. 

On  the  4th  of  April,  Harris  went  off  to  Edwardsville, 
with  the  rest  of  my  companions,  and  I  went  to  Nicholas 
Berthoud,  who  began  housekeeping  here  that  day,  though 
Eliza  was  not  yet  arrived  from  Pittsburgh.  My  time  at 
St.  Louis  would  have  been  agreeable  to  any  one  fond  of 
company,  dinners,  and  parties ;  but  of  these  matters  I  am 
not,  though  I  did  dine  at  three  different  houses,  bon  gri^ 
inalgr^.  In  fact,  my  time  was  spent  procuring,  arranging, 
and  superintending  the  necessary  objects  for  the  comfort 
and  utility  of  the  party  attached  to  my  undertaking.  The 
Chouteaux  supplied  us  with  most  things,  and,  let  it  be  said 
to  their  honor,  at  little  or  no  profit.  Captain  Sire  took  me 
in  a  light  wagon  to  see  old  Mr.  Chouteau  one  afternoon, 


lends,  and  on  the 
imberland,  which 
Here  we  had  all 
Tty  dollars  addi- 
ry.  We  went  on 
cending  the  Alle- 
:  us  company  for 
deling,  which  we 
»ard  the  steamer, 


as  Geese,  Ducks, 
•re.    We  left  for 
arrived  there  be- 
ipanions  went  to 
lakewell's,  whose 
up.     I  remained 
it  kindly  treated ; 
city  of  my  youth 
dancing,  dinner- 
board  the  ever- 
md   after  having 
us  to  the  bottom, 

to  Edwardsville, 
went  to  Nicholas 

that  day,  though 
rgh.     My  time  at 

any  one  fond  of 
lese  matters  I  am 
:  houses,  bon  griy 
curing,  arranging, 

for  the  comfort 
ndertaking.  The 
and,  let  it  be  said 
)tain  Sire  took  me 
,u  one  afternoon, 


Hi 


? 


AUDUBON. 


FROM  nil-;   PORTRAIT  UY  JOHN   WOODHOISI-;  ArDlllON  (AllOL'T  1841K 


and  I  fou 
of  inforrr 
returned 
sake  of  th 
with  the  V 
Pouched 
dant  in  th 
ris  came  t 
of  birds  ai 
me  that  th 
left  the  ne 
the  party 
I  drew  fou 
ures  of  .S, 
Squirrel." 

The  25t 
were  now 
every  obje 
larly  linger 
conveyed  t 
and  being  ! 
at  1 1.30  A. 
one  trappe 
ent  nationa 
Canadians, 
and  many  i 
vousness  pr 
is  the  scene 
departure,  j 

First  the 

*  Described 
Am.  i,,  1849,  ?■ 
Mississippi  bas 

*  Aud.  and 
three  figures, 
monly  called  Sc 
Squirrel.    S.  ca 


S*^.r: 


THE  MISSOURI  RIVER  JOURNALS 


455 


and  I  found  the  worthy  old  gentleman  so  kind  and  so  full 
of  information  about  the  countries  of  the  Indians  that  I 
returned  to  him  a  few  days  afterwards,  not  only  for  the 
sake  of  the  pleasure  I  enjoyed  in  his  conversation,  but  also 
with  the  view  to  procure,  both  dead  and  alive,  a  species  of 
Pouched  Rat  {Pseiidostoma  bursariusy  wonderfully  abun- 
dant in  this  section  of  country.  One  day  our  friend  Har- 
ris came  back,  and  brought  with  him  the  prepared  skins 
of  birds  and  quadrupeds  they  had  collected,  and  informed 

me  that  they  had  removed  their  quarters  to  B 's.     He 

left  the  next  day,  after  we  had  made  an  arrangement  for 
the  party  to  return  the  Filday  following,  which  they  did. 
I  drew  four  figures  of  Pouched  Rats,  and  outlined  two  fig- 
ures of  Sciurus  capistratus?  which  is  here  called  "  Fox 
Squirrel." 

The  25th  of  April  at  last  made  its  appearance,  the  rivers 
were  now  opened,  the  weather  was  growing  warm,  and 
every  object  in  nature  proved  to  us  that  at  last  the  singu- 
larly lingering  winter  of  1842  and  1843  was  over.  Having 
conveyed  the  whole  of  our  effects  on  board  the  steamer, 
and  being  supplied  with  excellent  letters,  we  left  St.  Louis 
at  1 1.30  A.  M.,  with  Mr.  Sarpy  on  board,  and  a  hundred  and 
one  trappers  of  all  descriptions  and  nearly  a  dozen  differ- 
ent nationalities,  though  the  greater  number  were  French 
Canadians,  or  Creoles  of  this  State.  Some  were  drunk, 
and  many  in  that  stupid  mood  which  follows  a  state  of  ner- 
vousness produced  by  drinking  and  over-excitement.  Here 
is  the  scene  that  took  place  on  board  the  •'  Omega  "  at  our 
departure,  and  what  followed  when  the  roll  was  called. 

First  the  general  embarkation,  when  the  men  came  in 

1  Described  and  figured  under  this  name  by  Aud.  and  Bach.,  Quad.  N. 
Am.  i.,  1849,  p.  332,  pi.  44.  This  is  the  commonest  Pocket  Gopher  of  the 
Mississippi  basin,  now  known  as  Geomys  bursarius.  —  E.  C. 

»  Aud.  and  Bach.,  Quad.  N.  Am.  ii.,  1851,  p.  132,  pi.  68.  The  plate  has 
three  figures.  This  is  the  Fox  Squirrel  with  white  nose  and  ears,  now  com- 
monly called  Sciurvs  ni,t[er,  after  Linnaeus,  1758,  as  based  on  Catesby's  Black 
Squirrel.    S.  capistratus  is  Dose's  name,  bestowed  in  1802.  —  E.  C. 


456 


AUDUBON 


pushing  and  squeezing  each  other,  so  as  to  make  the 
boards  they  walked  upon  fairly  tremble.  The  Indians, 
poor  souls,  were  more  quiet,  and  had  already  seated  or 
squatted  themselves  on  the  highest  parts  of  the  steamer, 
and  were  tranquil  lookers-on.  After  about  three  quarters 
of  an  hour,  the  crew  and  all  the  trappers  (these  are  called 
engaghy  were  on  board,  and  we  at  once  pushed  oflf  and 
up  the  stream,  thick  and  muddy  as  it  was.  The  whole  of 
the  effects  and  the  baggage  of  the  engagh  was  arranged  in 
the  main  cabin,  and  presently  was  seen  Mr.  Sarpy,  book  in 
hand,  with  the  list  before  him,  wherefrom  he  gave  the 
names  of  these  attachh.  The  men  whose  names  were 
called  nearly  filled  the  fore  part  of  the  cabin,  where  stood 
Mr.  Sarpy,  our  captain,  and  one  of  the  clerks.  All  awaited 
orders  from  Mr.  Sarpy.  As  each  man  was  called,  and 
answered  to  his  name,  a  blanket  containing  the  apparel  for 
the  trip  was  handed  to  him,  and  he  was  ordered  at  once 
to  retire  and  make  room  for  the  next.  The  outfit,  by  the 
way,  was  somewhat  scanty,  and  of  indifferent  quality. 
Four  men  were  missing,  and  some  appeared  rather  reluc- 
tant; however,  the  roll  was  ended,  and  one  hundred  and 
one  were  found.  In  many  instances  their  bundles  were 
thrown  to  them,  and  they  were  ordered  off  as  if  slaves.  I 
forgot  to  say  that  as  the  boat  pushed  off  from  the  shore, 
where  stood  a  crowd  of  loafers,  the  men  on  board  had 
congregated  upon  the  hurricane  deck  with  their  rifles  and 
guns  of  various  sorts,  all  loaded,  and  began  to  fire  what  I 
should  call  a  very  disorganized  sort  of  a  salute,  which 
lasted  for  something  like  an  hour,  and  which  has  been 
renewed  at  intervals,  though  in  a  more  desultory  manner, 

*  The  Engagit  of  the  South  and  Southwest  corresponded  to  the  Coureun 
de  Bois,  of  whom  Irving  says,  in  his  "Astoria,"  p.  36 :  "  Originally  men  who 
had  accompanied  the  Indians  in  their  hunting  expeditions,  and  made  them- 
selves acquainted  with  remote  tracts  and  tribes.  .  .  .  Many  became  so 
accustomed  to  the  Indian  mode  of  living  that  they  lost  all  relish  for  civili- 
zation, and  identified  themselves  with  the  savages  among  whom  they 
dwelt.  .  .  .  They  may  be  said  to  have  sprung  up  put  of  the  fur  trade." 


■WTti  ]| 


THE   MISSOURI  RIVER  JOURNALS 


457 


s  to  make  the 
.     The    Indians, 
ready  seated  or 
of  the  steamer, 
t  three  quarters 
these  are  called 
pushed  off  and 
The  whole  of 
was  arranged  in 
r.  Sarpy,  book  in 
)m   he   gave  the 
lose   names  were 
bin,  where  stood 
rks.    All  awaited 
was  called,  and 
ig  the  apparel  for 
\  ordered  at  once 
rhe  outfit,  by  the 
idifTerent  quality, 
ired  rather  reluc- 
one  hundred  and 
leir  bundles  were 
»fif  as  if  slaves.    1 
ff  from  the  shore, 
len  on  board  had 
:h  their  rifles  and 
Tan  to  fire  what  I 
f  a  salute,  which 
i  which  has  been 
desultory  manner, 

iponded  to  the  Courmi 

"  Originally  men  who 

itions,  and  made  thetn- 

.  .  .  Many  became  so 
lost  all  relish  for  civUi- 
^es    among  whom  they 

;  of  the  fur  trade." 


at  every  village  we  have  passed.  However,  we  now  find 
them  passably  good,  quiet,  and  regularly  sobered  men. 
We  have  of  course  a  motley  set,  even  to  Italians.  We 
passed  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri,  and  moved  very  slowly 
against  the  current,  for  it  was  not  less  than  twenty  minutes 
after  four  the  next  morning,  when  we  reached  St.  Charles,^ 
distant  forty-two  miles.  Here  we  stopped  till  half-past 
five,  when  Mr.  Sarpy,  to  whom  I  gave  my  letters  home, 
left  us  in  a  wagon. 

April  26.  A  rainy  day,  and  the  heat  we  had  experi- 
enced yesterday  was  now  all  gone.  We  saw  a  Wild  Goose 
running  on  the  shore,  and  it  was  killed  by  Bell;  but  our 
captain  did  not  stop  to  pick  it  up,  and  I  was  sorry  to  see 
the  poor  bird  dead,  uselessly.  We  now  had  found  out 
that  our  berths  were  too  thickly  inhabited  for  us  to  sleep 
in;  so  I  rolled  myself  in  my  blanket,  lay  down  on  deck, 
and  slept  very  .sound. 

£7tA.  A  fine  clear  day,  cool  this  morning.  Cleaned 
our  boilers  last  night,  landing  where  the  "  Emily  Christian  " 
is  sunk,  for  a  few  moments;  saw  a  few  Gray  Squirrels,  and 
an  abundance  of  our  common  Partridges  in  flocks  of  fif- 
teen to  twenty,  very  gentle  indeed.  About  four  this  after- 
noon we  passed  the  mouth  of  the  Gasconade  River,  a 
stream  coming  from  the  westward,  valuable  for  its  yellow- 
pine  lumber.  At  a  woodyard  above  us  we  saw  a  White 
Pelican^  that  had  been  captured  there,  and  which,  had  it 
been  clean,  I  should  have  bought.     I  saw  that  its  legs  and 

1  One  of  the  oldest  settlements  in  Missouri,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river, 
still  known  by  the  same  name,  and  giving  name  to  St.  Charles  County,  Mo. 
It  was  once  called  Petite  Cflte,  from  the  range  of  small  hills  at  the  foot  of 
which  it  is  situated.  When  Lewis  and  Clark  were  here,  in  May,  1804,  the 
town  had  nearly  100  small  wooden  houses,  including  a  chapel,  and  a  popu- 
lation of  about  450,  chiefly  of  Canadian  French  origin.  See  "  Lewis  and 
Clark,"  Coues'  ed.,  1893,  p.  5.  — E.  C. 

'  The  species  which  Audubon  described  and  figured  as  new  under  the 
name  of  Pelecanus  americanm :  Ornith.  Biogr.  iv.,  1838,  p.  88,  pi.  311 ;  Birds 
of  Amer.  vii.,  1844,  p.  20,  pi.  422.  This  is  P.  erytkrorhynchui  of  Gmelin, 
1788,  and  P,  traehyrhynchus  of  Latham,  1790.  —  E.  C. 


P'iiii 
jfiJiiiii 


458 


AUDUBON 


feet  were  red,  and  not  yellow,  as  they  are  during  autumn 
and  winter.  Marmots  are  quite  abundant,  and  here  they 
perforate  their  holes  in  the  loose,  sandy  soil  of  the  river 
banks,  as  well  as  the  same  soil  wherever  it  is  somewhat 
elevated.  We  do  not  know  yet  if  it  is  Arctomys  monax,  or 
a  new  species.^  The  weather  being  fine,  and  the  night 
clear,  we  ran  all  night  and  on  the  morning  of  the  28th, 
thermometer  69°  to  78°  at  sunrise,  we  were  in  sight  of 
the  seat  of  government,  Jefiferson.  The  State  House 
stands  prominent,  with  a  view  from  it  up  and  down  the 
stream  of  about  ten  miles;  but,  with  the  exception  of  the 
State  House  and  the  Penitentiary,  Jefiferson  is  a  poor  place, 
the  land  round  being  sterile  and  broken.  This  is  said  to  be 
160  or  170  miles  above  St.  Louis.''  We  saw  many  Gray 
Squirrels  this  morning.  Yesterday  we  passed  under  long 
lines  of  elevated  shore,  surmounted  by  stupendous  rocks 
of  limestone,  with  many  curious  holes  in  them,  where  we 
saw  Vultures  and  Eagles^  enter  towards  dusk  Harris  saw 
a  Peregrine  Falcon ;  the  whole  of  these  rocky  shores  are 
ornamented  with  a  species  of  white  cedar  quite  satisfac- 
torily known  to  us.  We  took  wood  at  several  places;  at 
one  I  was  told  that  Wild  Turkeys  were  abundant  and 
Squirrels  also,  but  as  the  squatter  observed,  "  Game  is  very 
scarce,  especially  Bears."  Wolves  begin  to  be  trouble- 
some to  the  settlers  who  have  sheep;  they  are  obliged 
to  drive  the  latter  home,  and  herd  them  each  night. 

This  evening  the  weather  became  cloudy  and  looked 
like  rain ;  the  weather  has  been  very  warm,  the  thermom- 
eter being  at  78°  at  three  this  afternoon.  We  saw  a 
pair  of  Peregrine  Falcons,  one  of  them  with  a  bird  in  its 

1  No  other  species  of  Marmot  than  the  common  Woodchuck,  Arctmyi 
monax,  is  known  to  occur  in  this  locality.  —  E.  C. 

*  The  actual  distance  of  Jefferson  City  above  the  mouch  of  the  river  is 
given  on  the  Missouri  River  Commission  map  as  145  f^  milfis.  The  name 
of  the  place  was  once  Missouriopolis.  —  E.  C. 

"  Turkey-buzzards  (CatAartes  aura)  and  Bald  Eagles  (Haliai'tus  Ituo- 
cephabts).  —  E.  C. 


THE  AflSSOURI  RIVER  JOURNALS 


459 


I  during  autumn 
t,  and  here  they 
soil  of  the  river 
r  it  is  somewhat 
ctomys  monax,  or 
e,  and  the   night 
ning  of  the  28th, 
were  in   sight  oi 
:he   State   House 
up  and  down  the 
J  exception  of  the 
on  is  a  poor  place, 
This  is^a^'^tobe 
'e  saw  many  Gray 
passed  under  long 
stupendous  rocks 
in  them,  where  we 
,  dusk     Harris  saw 
e  rocky  shores  are 
edar  quite  satisfac- 
several  places;  at 
rere  abundant  and 
ed,  "  Game  is  very 
;gin  to  be  trouble- 
they  are  obliged 
each  night. 
;loudy  and  looked 
■arm,  the  thermom- 
Inoon.     We  saw  a 
with  a  bird  in  its 

Ion  Woodchuck,  Arctmfi 

Ithe  mouth  of  the  river  is 
]i45^mile,s.    The  name 

Eagles  (Haliaetui  lluc^ 


talons ;  also  a  few  White-fronted  Geese,  some  Blue-winged 
Teal,  and  some  Cormorants,*  but  none  with  the  head, 
neck,  and  breast  pure  white,  as  the  one  I  saw  two  days  ago. 
The  strength  of  the  current  seemed  to  increase ;  in  some 
places  our  boat  merely  kept  her  own,  and  in  one  in- 
stance fell  back  nearly  half  a  mile  to  where  we  had 
taken  in  wood.  At  about  ten  this  evening  we  came 
into  such  strong  water  that  nothing  could  be  done 
against  it ;  we  laid  up  for  the  night  at  the  lower  end  of  a 
willow  island,  and  then  cleaned  the  boilers  and  took  in 
200  fence-rails,  which  the  French  Canadians  call  "  perches." 
Now  a  pcrche  in  French  means  a  pole ;  therefore  this  must 
be  patois. 

20th.  We  were  off  at  five  this  rainy  morning,  and  at  9 
A.  M.  reached  Booneville,^  distant  from  St.  Louis  about  204 
miles.  We  bought  at  this  place  an  axe,  a  saw,  three  files, 
and  some  wafers ;  also  some  chickens,  at  one  dollar  a 
dozen.  We  found  here  some  of  the  Santa  F6  traders  with 
whom  we  had  crossed  the  Alleghanies.  They  were  await- 
ing the  arrival  of  their  goods,  and  then  would  immedi- 
ately start.  I  saw  a  Rabbit  sitting  under  the  shelf  of  a 
rock,  and  also  a  Gray  Squirrel.  It  appears  to  me  that 
Sciurus  macrourus^  of  Say  relishes  the  bottom  lands  in 

I  What  Cormorants  these  were  is  somewhat  uncertain,  as  more  than  one 
species  answering  to  the  indications  given  may  be  found  in  this  locality. 
Probably  they  were  Phalacrocorax  dilophus  floridanus,  first  described  and 
figured  by  Audubon  as  the  Florida  Cormorant,  P.  Jloridanus :  Orn.  Biog. 
iii.,  1835,  p.  387,  pi.  251 ;  B.  of  Amer.  vi.,  1843,  P-  43°'  P'-  4'7-  '^'^^  alterna- 
tive identification  in  this  case  is  P.  mexicanus  of  Brandt.  —  E.  C 

*  In  present  Cooper  County,  Mo.,  near  the  mouth  of  Mine  River.  It  was 
named  for  the  celebrated  Daniel  Boone,  who  owned  an  extensive  grant  of 
land  in  this  vicinity.  Booneville  followed  upon  the  earlier  settlement  at 
Boone's  Lick,  or  Boone's  Salt  Works,  and  in  18 19  consisted  of  eight  houses. 
According  to  the  Missouri  River  Commission  charts,  the  distance  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Missouri  River  is  197  miles.  —  E.  C. 

'  Say,  in  Long's  Exped.  i.,  1823,  p.  115,  described  from  what  is  now 

Kansas.    This  is  the  well-known  Western  Fox  Squirrel,  S.  ludmicianus  of 

I  Custis,  in  Barton's  Med.  and  Phys.  Joum.  ii.,  1806,  p.  43.    It  has  been  re- 

peatedly  described  and  figured  under  other  names,  as  follows :  S.  subauratus^ 


.iHi^lplll 


46o 


AUDUBON 


1 


iil 


preference  to  the  hilly  or  rocky  portions  which  alternately 
present  themselves  along  these  shores.  On  looking  along 
the  banks  of  the  river,  one  cannot  help  observing  the  half- 
drowned  young  willows,  and  cotton  trees  of  the  same  age, 
trembling  and  shaking  sideways  against  the  current;  and 
methought,  as  I  gazed  upon  them,  of  the  danger  they  were 
in  of  being  immersed  over  their  very  tops  and  thus  dying, 
not  through  the  influence  of  fire,  the  natural  enemy  of 
wood,  but  from  the  force  of  the  mighty  stream  on  the 
margin  of  which  they  grew,  and  which  appeared  as  if  in 
its  wrath  it  was  determined  to  overwhelm,  and  undo  all 
that  the  Creator  in  His  bountifulness  had  granted  us  to 
enjoy.  The  banks  themselves,  along  with  perhaps  millions 
of  trees,  are  ever  tumbling,  falling,  and  washing  away  from 
the  spots  where  they  may  have  stood  and  grown  for  cen- 
turies past.  If  this  be  not  an  awful  exemplification  of  th ; 
real  course  of  Nature's  intention,  that  all  should  and  muat 
live  and  die,  then,  indeed,  the  philosophy  of  our  learnd 
men  cannot  be  much  relied  upon  ! 

This  afternoon  the  steamer  "  John  Auld  "  came  up  near 
us,  but  stopped  to  put  off  passengers.  She  had  troops  on 
board  and  a  good  number  of  travellers.  We  passed  the 
city  of  Glasgow^  without  stopping  there,  and  the  black- 
guards on  shore  were  so  greatly  disappointed  that  they 
actually  fired  at  us  with  rifles ;  but  whether  with  balls  or 
not,  they  did  us  no  harm,  for  the  current  proved  so  strong 
that  we  had  to  make  over  to  the  opposite  side  of  the  river. 

Aud.  and  Bach,  ii.,  1851,  p.  67,  pi.  58;  S.  rubicaudatus,  Aud.  and  Bach,  ii, 
1851,  p.  30,  pi.  55;  S.  auduboni.  Bach.  P.  Z.  S.  1838,  p.  97  (dusky  variety); 
Aud.  and  Bach,  iii.,  1854,  p.  260,  pi.  152,  fig.  2;  S.  occtdentalis,  Aud  and 
Bach.,  Joum.  Philada.  Acad,  viii.,  1842,  p.  317  (dusky  variety) ;  S.  sayii,  .\ud. 
and  Bach.  Ii.,  1851,  p.  274,  pi.  89.  The  last  is  ostensibly  based  on  the  spiicies 
described  by  Say,  whose  name  macroura  was  preoccupied  for  a  Ceylonwe 
species.  The  Western  Fox  Squirrel  has  also  been  called  .S".  mfivaiter  and 
S.  magnicaudatus,  both  of  which  names  appear  in  Harlan's  Fauna  Amcri- 1 
cana,  1825.  p.  176  and  p.  178.  —  E.  C. 

1  Audubon  underscores  "  city  "  as  a  bit  of  satire,  Glasgow  being  at  that  j 
time  a  mere  village  or  hamlet.  —  E.  C.  -  - 


tamt^hM 


THE  MISSOURI  RIVER  JOURNALS 


461 


vhich  alternately 
3n  looking  along 
bserving  the  half- 
of  the  same  age, 
the  current;  and 
danger  they  were 
,s  and  thus  dying, 
natural  enemy  o( 
ty  stream  on  the 
appeared  as  if  in 
elm,  and  undo  all 
had  granted  us  to 
th  perhaps  millions 
washing  away  from 
ind  grown  for  cen- 
implification  of  th : 
.11  should  and  muit 
phy  of  our  learned 

Luld  "  came  up  near 
She  had  troops  on 
s.  We  passed  the 
ere,  and  the  black- 
ippointed  that  they 
lether  with  balls  or 
:nt  proved  so  strong 
iite  side  of  the  river. 

\daiusy  Aud.  and  Bach,  ii, 
38,  p.  97  (duslty  variety); 
\  S.  occiJentalis,  And.  and 
Lky  variety) ;  S.  sayii,  Aud. 
Isibly  based  on  the  species 
loccupied  for  a  Ceylonw 
L  called  S.  rti/ivinter  i^^ 
\n  Harlan's  Faunu  Amen- 

Ire,  Glasgow  being  at  th»t 


VVe  did  not  run  far;  the  weather  was  still  bad,  raining 
hard,  and  at  ten  o'clock,  with  wood  nearly  exhausted,  we 
stopped  on  the  west  shore,  and  there  remained  all  the 
night,  cleaning  boilers,  etc. 

Sunday  SOth.     This   morning  was  cold,  and  it  blew  a 
gale  from  the  north.     We  started,  however,  for  a  wooding- 
place,  but  the  '*  John  Auld  "  had  the  advantage  of  us,  and 
took  what  there  was;  the  wind   increased  .so  much  that 
the  waves  were  actually  running  pretty  high  down-stream, 
and  we   stopped   until   one   o'clock.     You   may  depend 
my  party  was   not  sorry  for  this;  and  as  I  had  had  no 
exercise  since  we  left  St.  Louis,  as  soon  as  breakfast  was 
over  we  started  —  Bell,  Harris,  Squires,  and  myself,  with 
our  guns — and  had  quite  a  frolic  of  it,  for  we  killed  a 
^food  deal   of  game,  and   lost  some.     Unfortunately  we 
landed  at  a   place  where  the  water  had   overflowed   the 
country  between  the  shores  and  the  hills,  which  are  distant 
about  one  mile  and  a  half.     We  started  a  couple  of  Deer, 
which  Bell  and  I  shot  at,  and  a  female  Turkey  flying  fast; 
at  my  shot  it  extended  its  legs  downwards  as   if  badly 
wounded,  but  it  sailed  on,  and  must  have   fallen   across 
the  muddy  waters.     Bell,  Harris,  and  myself  shot  running 
exactly  twenty-eight  Rabbits,  Lepus  sylvaticiis,  and   two 
Bachmans,  two  Sciurus  macrourus  of  Say,  two  Arctomys 
vionax,  and   a  pair  of   Tetrao   \^Bonasa\    umbellus.    The 
woods  were  alive  with  the  Rabbits,  but  'ihey  were  very 
wild;   the  Ground-hogs,  Marmots,  or  Arctomys,  were   in 
great  numbers,  judging  from  the  innumerable  burrows  we 
saw,  and  had  the  weather  been  calm,  I  have  no  doubt  we 
would  have  seen  many  more.     Bell  wounded  a  Turkey  hen 
so  badly  that  the  poor  thing  could  not  fly ;    but  Harris 
frightened  it,  and  it  was  off,  and  was  lost.     Harris  shot  an 
Arctomys  without  pouches,  that  had  been  forced  out  of  its 
burrow  by  the  water  entering  it ;  it  stood  motionless  until 
1  he  was  within  ten  paces  of  it ;  when,  ascertaining  what  it 
.  was,  he  retired  a  few  yards,  and  shot  it  with  No.  10  shot, 


462 


AUDUBON 


and  it  fell  dead  on  the  spot.  We  found  the  woods  filled 
with  birds  —  all  known,  however,  to  us:  Golden-crowned 
Thrush,  Cerulean  Warblers,  Woodpeckers  of  various  kinds, 
etc. ;  but  not  a  Duck  in  the  bayou,  to  my  surprise.  At 
one  the  wind  lulled  somewhat,  and  as  we  had  taken  all 
the  fence-rails  and  a  quantity  of  dry  stuff  of  all  sorts,  we 
were  ready  to  attempt  our  ascent,  and  did  so.  It  was 
curious  to  see  sixty  or  seventy  men  carrying  logs  forty  or 
fifty  feet  long,  some  well  dried  and  some  green,  on  their 
shoulders,  all  of  which  were  wanted  by  our  captain,  for 
some  purpose  or  other.  In  a  great  number  of  instances 
the  squatters,  farmers,  or  planters,  as  they  may  be  called, 
are  found  to  abandon  their  dwellings  or  make  towards 
higher  grounds,  which  fortunately  are  here  no  farther  off 
than  from  one  to  three  miles.  After  we  left,  we  met  with 
the  strength  of  the  current,  but  with  our  stakes,  fence-rails, 
and  our  dry  wood,  we  made  good  headway.  At  one 
place  we  passed  a  couple  of  houses,  with  women  and  chil- 
dren, perfectly  surrounded  by  the  flood ;  these  houses 
stood  apparently  on  the  margin  of  a  river  ^  coming  in  from 
the  eastward.  The  whole  farm  was  under  water,  and  all 
around  was  the  very  perfection  of  disaster  and  misfortune. 
It  appeared  to  us  as  if  the  men  had  gone  to  procure  as- 
sistance, and  I  was  grieved  that  we  could  not  offer  them 
any.  We  saw  several  trees  falling  in,  and  beautiful,  though 
painful,  was  the  sight.  As  they  fell,  the  spray  which  rose 
along  their  whole  length  was  exquisite ;  but  alas !  these 
magnificent  trees  had  reached  the  day  of  oblivion. 

A  few  miles  above  New  Brunswick  v/e  stopped  to  take 
in  wood,  and  landed  three  of  our  Indians,  who,  belonging 
to  the  Iowa  tribe,  had  to  travel  up  La  Grande  Riviere, 
The  wind  lulled  away,  and  we  ran  all  night,  touching,  for 
a  few  minutes,  on  a  bar  in  the  middle  of  the  river. 


1  This  is  the  stream  then  as  now  known  as  Grand  River,  which  at  its 
mouth  separates  Chariton  from  Carroll  County,  Mo.  Here  is  the  site  of 
Brunswick,  or  New  Brunswick,  which  Audubon  presently  mentions. —  E,  C 


THE  MISSOURI  RIVER  JOURNALS 


463 


he  woods  filled 
Golden-crowned 
jf  various  kinds, 
ly  surprise.  At 
e  had  taken  all 
•  of  all  sorts,  we 

did  so.  It  was 
ing  logs  forty  or 
J  green,  on  their 

our  captain,  for 
nber  of  instances 
jy  may  be  called, 
or  make  towards 
ere  no  farther  oif 

left,  we  met  with 
stakes,  fence-rails, 
leadway.  At  one 
ti  women  and  chil- 
,od;  these  houses 
er  1  coming  in  from 
ider  water,  and  all 

:er  and  misfortune. 

ne  to  procure  as- 

Jd  not  offer  them 

d  beautiful,  though 

e  spray  which  rose 
but  alas!  these 

,f  oblivion. 

»;e  stopped  to  take 

,ns,  who,  belonging 
a  Grande   Riviere, 

[night,  touching,  for 
the  river. 

Irand  River,  which  at  it» 

lo.    Here  is  the  site  of 

lesently  mentions-- E.C. 


May  1.  This  morning  was  a  beautiful  one;  our  run 
last  night  was  about  thirty  miles,  but  as  we  have  just 
begun  this  fine  day,  I  will  copy  here  the  habits  of  the 
Pouched  Rats,  from  my  notes  on  the  spot  at  old  Mr. 
Chouteau's,  and  again  at  St.  Louis,  where  I  kept  several 
alive  for  four  or  five  days:  — 

Plantation  of  Pierre  Chouteau,  Sen.,  four  miles  west  of 
St.  Louis,  April   13,   1843.     I  came  here  last  evening  in 
the  company  of  Mr.  Sarpy,  for  the  express  purpose  of  pro- 
curing some  Pouched  Rats,  and  as  I  have  been  fortunate 
enough  to  secure  several  of  these  strange  creatures,  and 
also  to  have  seen  and  heard  much  connected  with  their 
habits  and  habitats,  I  write   on  the   spot,  with  the  wish 
that  no  recollection  of  facts  be  passed  over.     The  present 
species  is  uncommonly  abundant  throughout  this  neighbor- 
hood, and  is  even  found  in  the  gardens  of  the  city  of  St. 
Louis,  upon  the  outskirts.     They  are  extremely  pernicious 
animals  to  the  planter  and  to  the  gardener,  as  they  devour 
every  root,  grass,  or  vegetable  within  their  reach,  and 
burrow  both  day  and  night  in  every  direction  imaginable, 
wherever   they   know    their   insatiable    appetites    can    be 
recompensed  for  their  labor.     They  bring  forth  from  five 
to  seven  young,  about  the  25th  of  March,  and  these  are 
rather  large  at  birth.     The  nest,  or   place   of  deposit,  is 
usually  rounded,  and  about  eight  inches  in  diameter,  being 
globular,  and  well  lined  with  the  hair  of  the  female.     This 
nest  is  not  placed  at  the  end  of  a  burrow,  or  in  any  par- 
ticular one  of  their  long  galleries,  but  oftentimes  in  the 
road  that  may  lead  to  hundreds  of  yards  distant.     From 
immediately   around    the   nest,   however,   many    galleries 
branch  off  in  divers  directions,  all   tending  towards  such 
spots  as  are  well  known  to  the  parents  to  afford  an  abun- 
dance of  food.     I  cannot  ascertain  how  long  the  young 
remain  under  the  care  of  the  mother.     Having  observed 
several  freshly  thrown-up  mounds  in  Mr.  Chouteau's  gar- 
den, this  excellent  gentleman  called  to  some  negroes  to 


I:|i" 


;:"ii: 
;i;i!' 


.■il^ 


464 


AUDUBON 


■M 


M 


M 


bring  spades,  and  to  dig  for  the  animals  with  the  hope  I 
might  procure  one  alive.  All  hands  went  to  work  with 
alacrity,  in  the  presence  of  Dr.  Trudeau  of  St.  Louis,  my 
friends  the  father  and  son  Chouteau,  and  myself.  We 
observed  that  the  "  Muloe  "  ^  (the  name  given  these  animals 
by  the  Creoles  of  this  country)  had  worked  in  two  or  more 
opposite  directions,  and  that  the  main  gallery  was  about  a 
foot  beneath  the  surface  of  the  ground,  except  where  it 
had  crossed  the  walks,  when  the  burrow  was  sunk  a  few 
inches  deeper.  The  work  led  the  negroes  across  a  large 
square  and  two  of  the  walks,  on  one  side  of  which  we 
found  large  bunches  of  carnations,  from  which  the  roots 
had  been  cut  off  obliquely,  close  to  the  surface  of  the 
ground,  thereby  killing  the  plants.  The  roots  measured 
\  of  an  inch,  and  immediately  next  to  them  was  a  rose- 
bush, where  ended  the  burrow.  The  other  side  was  now 
followed,  and  ended  amidst  the  roots  of  a  fine  large  peach- 
tree  ;  these  roots  were  more  or  less  gashed  and  lacerated, 
but  no  animal  was  there,  and  on  returning  on  our  tracks, 
we  found  that  several  galleries,  probably  leading  outside 
the  garden,  existed,  and  we  gave  up  the  chase. 

This  species  throws  up  the  earth  in  mounds  rarely  higher 
than  twelve  to  fifteen  inches,  and  these  mounds  are  thrown 
up  at  extremely  irregular  distances,  being  at  times  near 
to  each  other,  and  elsewhere  ten  to  twenty,  or  even  thirty, 
paces  apart,  yet  generally  leading  to  particular  spots,  well 
covered  with  grapes  or  vegetables  of  different  kinds. 
This  species  remains  under  ground  during  the  whole 
winter,  inactive,  and  probably  dormant,  as  they  never 
raise  or  work  the  earth  at  this  time.  The  earth  thrown 
up  is  as  if  pulverized,  and  as  soon  as  the  animal  has 
finished  his  labors,  which  are  for  no  other  purpose  than  to 
convey  him  securely  from  one  spot  to  another,  he  closes 
the  aperture,  which  is  sometimes  on  the  top,  though  more 
usually  on  the  side  towards  the  sun,  leaving  a  kind  of  ring 
1  From  the  French  "  Mulcts,"  field-mice. 


B^i^nWi^HB 


THE  MISSOURI  RIVER  JOURNALS 


46s 


with  the  hope  I 
;nt  to  work  with 
of  St.  Louis,  my 
ind   myself.    We 
ven  these  animals 
ed  in  two  or  more 
lUery  was  about  a 
,  except  where  it 
V  was  sunk  a  few 
aes  across  a  large 
side  of  which  we 
n  which  the  roots 
the  surface  of  the 
he  roots  measured 
them  was  a  rose- 
»ther  side  was  now 
a  fine  large  peach- 
shed  and  lacerated, 
ning  on  our  tracks, 
[jly  leading  outside 

chase, 
ounds  rarely  higher 
mounds  are  thrown 
leing  at  times  near 
;nty,  or  even  thirty, 
irticular  spots,  well 
different    kinds. 
during  the  whole 
mt,   as  they  never 
The  earth  thrown 
as  the   animal  has 
ler  purpose  than  to 
another,  he  closes 
:  top,  though  more 
Lving  a  kind  of  ring 
Id-mice. 


3f 


nearly  one  inch  in  breadth,  and  about  the  diameter  of  the 
body  of  the  animal.     Possessed  of  an  exqyisite  sense  of 
hearing  and   of  feeling  the   external  pressure  of  objects 
travelling  on  the  ground,  they  stop  their  labors  instantane- 
ously on  the  least  alarm ;  but  if  you  retire  from  fifteen  to 
twenty  paces  to  the  windward  of  the  hole,  and  wait  for  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  or  so,  you  see  the  "  Gopher"  (the  name 
given  to  it  by  the  Missourians  —  Americans)  raising  the 
earth  with  its  back  and  shoulders,  and  forcing  it  out  for- 
ward, leaving  the  aperture  open  during  the  process,  and 
from  which  it  at  times  issues  a  few  steps,  cuts  the  grasses 
around,  with  which  it  fills  its  pouches,  and  then  retires  to 
its  hole  to  feed  upon  its  spoils ;  or  it  sometimes  sits  up  on 
its  haunches  and  enjoys  the  sun,  and  it  may  then  be  shot, 
provided  you  are  quick.     If  missed  you  see  it  no  more, 
as  it  will  prefer   altering  the  course   of  its  burrow  and 
continuing  its  labors  in  quite  a  different  direction.     They 
may  be  caught  in  common  steel-traps,  and  two  of  them 
were  thus  procured  to-day ;  but  they  then  injure  the  foot, 
the  hind  one.     They  are   also   not   uncommonly  thrown 
up  by  the  plough,  and  one  was  caught  in  this  manner. 
They  have  been  known  to  destroy  the  roots  of  hundreds 
of  young  fruit-trees  in  the  course  of  a  few  days  and  nights, 
and  will  cut  roots  of  grown  trees  of  the  most  valued  kinds, 
such  as  apple,  pear,  peach,  plum,  etc.     They  differ  greatly 
in  their  size  and  also  in  their  colors,  according  to  age,  but 
not  in  the  sexes.     The  young  are  usually  gray,  the  old  of 
a  dark  chestnut,  glossy  and  shining  brown,  very  difficult 
to  represent  in  a  drawing.     The  opinion  commonly  re- 
ceived and  entertained,  that  these  Pouched  Rats  fill  their 
pouches  with  the  earth  of  their  burrows,  and  empty  them 
when  at  the  entrance,  is,  I  think,  quite  erroneous ;  about 
I  a  dozen  which  were  shot  in  the  act  of  raising  their  mounds, 
and  killed  ?X  ♦^hc  very  mouth  of  their  burrows,  had  no 
earth  in  any  of  thv°se  sacs ;  the  fore  feet,  teeth,  nose,  and 
[the  anterior  portion  of  the  head  were  found  covered  with 

VOL.  I.  —  30 


;:« 


I'l 


466 


AUDUBON 


adhesive  earth,  and  most  of  them  had  their  pouches  filled 
either  with  blades  of  grass  or  roots  of  different  sizes ;  and 
I  think  their  being  hairy  rather  corroborates  the  fact  that 
these  pouches  are  only  used  for  food.  In  a  word,  they 
appear  to  me  to  raise  the  earth  precisely  in  the  manner 
employed  by  the  Mole. 

When  travelling  the  tail  drags  on  the  ground,  and  they 
hobble  along  with  their  long  front  claws  drawn  underneath; 
at  other  times,  they  move  by  slow  leaping  movements, 
and  can  travel  backwards  almost  as  fast  as  forwards. 
When  turned  over  they  have  much  difficulty  in  replacing 
themselves  in  their  natural  position,  and  you  may  see 
them  kicking  with  their  legs  and  claws  for  a  minute  or 
two  before  they  are  right.  They  bite  severely,  and  do  not 
hesitate  to  make  towards  their  enemies  or  assailants  with 
open  mouth,  squealing  like  a  rat.  When  they  fight  among 
themselves  they  make  great  use  of  the  nose  in  the  manner 
of  hogs.  They  cannot  travel  faster  than  the  slow  walk  of  a 
man.  They  feed  frequently  while  seated  on  the  rump,  using 
their  fore  paws  and  long  claws  somewhat  like  a  squirrel 
When  sleeping  they  place  the  head  beneath  the  breast,  and 
become  round,  and  look  like  a  ball  of  earth.  They  clean 
their  whiskers  and  body  in  the  manner  of  Rats,  Squirrels,  etc. 

The  four  which  I  kept  alive  never  drank  anything, 
though  water  was  given  to  them.  I  fed  them  on  potatoes, 
cabbages,  carrots,  etc.  They  tried  constantly  to  make 
their  escape  by  gnawing  at  the  floor,  but  in  vain.  They 
slept  wherever  they  found  clothing,  etc.,  and  the  rascals 
cut  the  lining  of  my  hunting-coat  all  to  bits,  so  that  I  was 
obliged  to  have  it  patched  and  mended.  In  one  instance 
I  had  some  clothes  rolled  up  for  the  washerwoman,  and, 
on  opening  the  bundle  to  count  the  pieces,  one  of  the 
fellows  caught  hold  of  my  right  thumb,  with  fortunately 
a  single  one  of  its  upper  incisors,  and  hung  on  till  I  shook 
it  off,  violently  throwing  it  on  the  floor,  where  it  lay  as  if 
dead;  but  it  recovered,  and  was  as  well  as  ever  in  less 


'  P-  J.  de  Sme- 
[among  various  tri 
River,  and  in  othe 
and  Travels  over 
Vork  by  Edward 
kntion  of  the  jo 

Audubon £.  C 

"  Captain  Clarl 

'  The  distance 

3/6  miles  by  the 

K  had  been,  tf 

[Santa  F^  caravan 

""■I  and  so  on  int< 


"\'\ ''  "■ 


r/IE  MISSOURI  RIVER  JOURNALS 


467 


nr  pouches  filled 
ferent  sizes ;  and 
ites  the  fact  that 
In  a  word,  they 
y  in  the  manner 

ground,  and  they 
ravvn  underneath; 
ping  movements, 
fast   as   forwards, 
culty  in  replacing 
tnd   you   may  see 
5  for  a  minute  or 
verely,  and  do  not 
or  assailants  with 
[1  they  fight  among 
nose  in  the  manner 
,  the  slow  walk  of  a 
on  the  rump,  using 
L^hat  like  a  squirrel. 
:ath  the  breast,  and 
earth.     They  clean 
Rats,  Squirrels,  etc. 
;r  drank   anything, 
\  them  on  potatoes, 
lonstantly  to  make 
|but  in  vain.    They 
"tc,  and  the  rascals 
[o  bits,  so  that  I  was 
td.     In  one  instance 
washerwoman,  and, 
pieces,  one  of  the 
lb,  with  fortunately 
,ung  on  till  I  shook 
,r,  where  it  lay  as  i( 
well  as  ever  in  less 


than  half  an  hour.  They  gnawed  the  leather  straps  of  my 
trunks  during  the  night,  and  although  I  rose  frequently  to 
stop  their  work,  they  would  begin  anew  as  soon  as  I  was 
in  bed  again.  I  wrote  and  sent  most  of  the  above  to 
John  Bachman  from  St.  Louis,  after  I  had  finished  my 
drawing  of  four  figures  of  these  most  strange  and  most 
interesting  creatures. 

And  now  to  return  to  this  day:  When  we  reached 
Glasgow,  we  came  in  under  the  stern  of  the  *'  John  Auld." 
As  I  saw  several  officers  of  the  United  States  army  I 
bowed  to  them,  and  as  they  all  knew  that  I  was  bound 
towards  the  mighty  Rocky  Mountains,  they  not  only  re- 
turned my  salutations,  but  came  on  board,  as  well  as 
Father  de  Smet.^  They  all  of  them  came  to  my  room 
and  saw  specimens  and  skins.  Among  them  was  Captain 
Clark,'^  who  married  the  sister  of  Major  Sandford,  whom 
you  all  know.  They  had  lost  a  soldier  overboard,  two 
had  deserted,  and  a  fourth  was  missing.  We  proceeded 
on  until  about  ten  o'clock,  and  it  was  not  until  the  2d  of 
May  that  we  actually  reached  Independence. 

May  2.     It  stopped  raining  in  the  night  while  I  was 

i  sound  asleep,  and  at  about  one  o'clock  we  did  arrive  at 

Independence,  distant  about  379  miles  from  St.  Louis.^ 

[Here  again  was  the  "John  Auld,"  putting  out  freight  for 

I  the  Santa  F6  traders,  and  we  saw  many  of  their  wagons. 

'  P.  J.  de  Smet,  the  Jesuit  priest,  well  known  for  his  missionary  labors 
I  among  various  tribes  of  Indians  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  on  the  Columbia 
1  River,  and  in  other  parts  of  the  West.  His  work  entitled  "  Oregon  Missions 
land  Travels  over  the  Rocky  Mountains  in  1845-46"  was  published  in  New 
I  York  by  Edward  Dunigan  in  1847.  On  p.  39  of  this  book  will  be  found 
Imentlon  of  the  journey  Father  de  Smet  was  taking  in  1843,  when  met  by 
lAudubon. —  E.  C. 

'  Captain  Clark  of  the  U.  S.  A. 

•  The  distance  of  Independence  from  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri  is  abont 
I376  miles  by  the  Commission  charts.     In    1843  this  town  was  still,  as  it 

I  had  been,  the  principal  point  of  departure  from  the  river  on  the 
iSanta  Yi  caravan  route.  Trains  starting  hence  went  through  Westport, 
iMo.,  and  so  on  into  the  "  Indian  Territory."  —  E.  C. 


468 


AUDUBON 


'# 


Of  course  I  exchanged  a  hand-shake  with  Father  de 
Smet  and  many  of  the  officers  I  had  seen  yesterday. 
Mr.  Meeks,  the  agent  of  Colonel  Veras,  had  148  pounds 
of  tow  in  readiness  for  us,  and  I  drew  on  the  Chouteaux 
for  $io.20y  for  we  were  charged  no  less  than  12.}  to  25 
cts.  per  pound;  but  this  tow  might  have  passed  for  fine 
flax,  and  I  was  well  contented.  We  left  the  "Auld," 
proceeded  on  our  way,  and  stopped  at  Madame  Chouteau's 
plantation,  where  we  put  out  some  freight  for  Sir  William 
Stuart.  The  water  had  been  two  feet  deep  in  her  house, 
but  the  river  has  now  suddenly  fallen  about  six  feet.  At 
Madame  Chouteau's  I  saw  a  brother  of  our  friend  Pierre 
Chouteau,  Senr. ,  now  at  New  York,  and  he  gave  me  some 
news  respecting  the  murder  of  Mr.  Jarvis.  About  twenty 
picked  men  of  the  neighborhood  had  left  in  pursuit  of  the 
remainder  of  the  marauders,  and  had  sent  one  of  their 
number  back,  with  the  information  that  they  had  remained 
not  two  miles  from  the  rascally  thieves  and  murderers.  [ 
I  hope  they  will  overtake  them  all,  and  shoot  them 
the  spot.  We  saw  a  few  Squirrels,  and  Bell  killed  two| 
Parrakeets. 

May  3.  We  ran  all  last  night  and  reached  Fort  Leavj 
enworth  at  six  this  morning.  We  had  an  early  breakl 
fast,  as  we  had  intended  to  walk  across  the  Bend;  but! 
we  found  that  the  ground  was  overflowed,  and  that  thel 
bridges  across  two  creeks  had  been  carried  away,  andj 
reluctantly  we  gave  up  our  trip.  I  saw  two  officers  whol 
came  on  board,  also  a  Mr.  Ritchie.  The  situation  of  thel 
fort  is  elevated  and  fine,  and  one  has  a  view  of  the  riverj 
up  and  down  for  some  distance.  Seeing  a  great  numberl 
of  Parrakeets,  we  went  after  them  ;  Bell  killed  one.  Un-j 
fortunately  my  gun  snapped  twice,  or  I  should  have  killedl 
several  more.  We  saw  several  Turkeys  on  the  grouni 
and  in  the  trees  early  this  morning.  On  our  reaching 
the  landing,  a  sentinel  dragoon  came  to  watch  that  do[ 
one  tried  to  escape. 


THE  MISSOURI  RIVER  JOURNALS 


469 


;   with   Father  de 
d   seen   yesterday, 
IS,  had  148  pounds 
■  on  the  Chouteaux 
iss  than  \2\  to  25 
ave  passed  for  fine 
:  left  the  "Auld," 
Madame  Chouteau's 
ght  for  Sir  William 
:  deep  in  her  house, 
about  six  feet.    At 
)f  our  friend  Pierre 
nd  he  gave  me  some 
rvis.     About  twenty  1 
left  in  pursuit  of  the 
id  sent  one  of  their 
at  they  had  remained 
eves  and  murderers, 
and  shoot  them  on  I 
L  and  Bell  killed  two  | 

reached  Fort  Leav- 
had  an  early  break- 
cross  the  Bend;  but 
flowed,  and  that  the 
n  carried  away,  and 
saw  two  officers  who 

The  situation  of  tk 
^s  a  view  of  the  river 
[eeing  a  great  number 

iell  killed  one.    Un- 
I  should  have  killed] 

irkeys  on  the  i 
ig.      On  our  reachin?! 
ime  to  watch  that  no 


After  leaving  this  place  we  fairly  entered  the  Indian 
country  on  the  west  side  of  the  river,  for  the  State  of  Mis- 
souri, by  the  purchase  of  the  Platte  River  country,  contin- 
ues for  about  250  miles  further  on  the  east  side,  where 
now  we  see  the  only  settlements.  We  saw  a  good  num- 
ber of  Indians  in  the  woods  and  on  the  banks,  gazing  at  us 
as  we  passed;  these  are,  however,  partly  civilized,  and  are 
miserable  enough.  Major  Mason,  who  commands  here  at 
present,  is  ill,  and  I  could  not  see  him.  We  saw  several 
fine  horses  belonging  to  different  officers.  We  soon  passed 
Watson,  which  is  considered  the  head  of  steam  navigation. 

In  attempting  to  pass  over  a  shallow,  but  a  short,  cut, 
we  grounded  on  a  bar  at  five  o'clock ;  got  off,  tried  again, 
and  again  grounded  broadside;  and  now  that  it  is  past  six 
o'clock  all  hands  are  busily  engaged  in  trying  to  get  the 
boat  off,  but  with  what  success  I  cannot  say.  To  me  the 
situation  is  a  bad  one,  as  I  conceive  that  as  we  remain 
here,  the  washings  of  the  muddy  sands  as  they  float  down 
a  powerful  current  will  augment  the  bar  on  the  weather 
side  (if  I  may  so  express  myself)  of  the  boat.  We  have 
seen  another  Turkey  and  many  Parrakeets,  as  well  as  a 
great  number  of  burrows  formed  by  the  "Siflfleurs,"  as 
our  French  Canadians  call  all  and  every  species  of  Mar- 
mots; Bell  and  I  have  concluded  that  there  must  be  not 
less  than  twenty  to  thirty  of  these  animals  for  one  in  any 
portion  of  the  Atlantic  States.  We  saw  them  even  around 
[the  open  grounds  immediately  about  Fort  Leavenworth. 

About  half-past  seven  we  fortunately  removed  our  boat 
jinto  somewhat  deeper  water,  by  straightening  her  bows 
against  the  stream,  and  this  was  effected  by  fastening  our 
rery  long  cable  to  a  snag  above  us,  about  200  yards ;  and 
low,  if  we  can  go  backwards  and  reach  the  deep  waters 
ilong  shore  a  few  hundred  yards  below,  we  shall  be  able 
|o  make  fast  there  for  the  night.  Unfortunately  it  is  now 
pining  hard,  the  lightning  is  vivid,  and  the  appearance 
i  the  night  forbidding. 


Ii' 


470 


AUDUBON 


I'nff'J' 


':*,  !«i  ''!l^:3'^''' >■'/;  ■  ■; 


Thursday,  May  ^.  We  had  constant  rain,  lightning 
and  thunder  last  night.  This  morning,  at  the  dawn  of 
day,  the  captain  and  all  hands  were  at  work,  and  suc- 
ceeded in  removing  the  boat  several  hundred  yards  below 
where  she  had  struck ;  but  unfortunately  we  got  fast  again 
before  we  could  reach  deep  water,  and  all  the  exertions  to  1 
get  off  were  renewed,  and  at  this  moment,  almost  nine, 
we  have  a  line  fastened  to  the  shore  and  expect  to  be  I 
afloat  in  a  short  time.  But  I  fear  that  we  shall  lose  most 
of  the  day  before  we  leave  this  shallow,  intricate,  and| 
dangerous  channel. 

At  ten  o'clock  we  found  ourselves  in  deep  water,  nearl 
the  shore  on  the  west  side.  We  at  once  had  the  men  at  I 
work  cutting  wood,  which  was  principally  that  of  ash- 
trees  of  moderate  size,  which  wood  was  brought  on  board! 
in  great  quantities  and  lengths.  Thank  Heaven,  we  are! 
off  in  a  few  minutes,  and  I  hope  will  have  better  luck.  ll 
saw  on  the  shore  many  "Gopher"  hills,  in  all  probabilitjl 
the  same  as  I  have  drawn.  Bell  shot  a  Gray  Squirrelj 
which  I  believe  to  be  the  same  as  our  Sciurus  carolinenm 
Friend  Harris  shot  two  or  three  birds,  which  we  have  not 
yet  fully  established,  and  Bell  shot  one  Lincoln's  Finch'l 
—  strange  place  for  it,  when  it  breeds  so  very  far  nortil 
as  Labrador.  Caught  a  Woodpecker,  and  killed  a  Cat-[ 
bird,  Water-thrush,  seventeen  Parrakeets,  a  Yellow  Chat, a| 
new  Finch.^and  very  curious,  two  White-throated  Finches,! 
one  White-crown,  a  Yellow-rump  Warbler,  a  Gray  Squir-[ 

*  This  is  the  bird  which  Audubon  first  discovered  in  Labrador,  in  iSjj] 
and  named  FriugiUa  lincolnii  in  honor  of  his  young  companion,  Thou 
Lincoln.  It  is  described  and  figured  under  that  name  in  Orn.  Biogr. 
1834,  p.  539,  pi.  193,  and  as  Peuccea  lincolnii  in  B.  of  Am.  iii.,  1841,  p.  iiW 
pi.  177,  but  is  now  known  as  Melospiza  lincolni.  It  ranges  throughout  thJ 
gicater  part  of  North  America.  —  E.  C. 

2  Apparently  the  very  first  intimation  we  have  of  the  beautiful  Find 
which  Audubon  dedicated  to  Mr.  Harris  as  Fringilla  harrisii,  as  will  be  se( 
further  on  in  his  journal. 

The  other  birds  mentioned  in  the  above  text  were  all  well-known  specia 
in  1843.  — E.G. 


I  obstacles  in 
They  are 

I  lion  of  ope 
"  Travels  in 


THE  MISSOURI  RIVER  JOURNALS 


471 


;ant  rain,  lightning 
ing,  at  the  dawn  of 
at  work,  and  sue- 
lundred  yards  below 
sly  we  got  fast  again 
1  all  the  exertions  to  1 
oment,  almost  nine, 
re  and  expect  to  be  | 
It  we  shall  lose  most  I 
allow,  intricate,  and 

i  in  deep  water,  near 
once  had  the  men  at  | 
ncipally  that  of  ash- 
was  brought  on  boardl 
hank  Heaven,  wearel 
1  have  better  luck.  ll 
ills,  in  all  probability! 
shot  a  Gray  Squirrell 
^r  Sciurus  carolinensis.} 
ds,  which  we  have  notl 
one  Lincoln's  Finchl 
ieds  so  very  far  nortil 
:er,  and  killed  a  Cat! 
keets,  a  Yellow  Chat, al 
hite-throated  Finches,! 
Warbler,  a  Gray  Squirj 

;overed  in  Labrador,  in  183] 
3  young  companion,  Thonu 
hat  name  in  Orn.  Biogi.  iJ 
n  B.  of  Am.  iii-,  1841.  P- "] 
It  ranges  througiiout  tW 

have  of  the  beautiful  Findl 
ngilla  harrisii,  as  will  be  s« 

t  were  all  well-known  specie 


(( 


rel,  a  Loon,  and  two  Rough-winged  Swallows.  We  saw 
Cerulean  Warblers,  Hooded  Flycatchers,  Kentucky  War- 
blers, Nashville  ditto,  Blue-winged  ditto,  Red-eyed 
and  White-eyed  Flycatchers,  Great-crested  and  Com- 
mon Pewees,  Redstarts,  Tovvhee  Buntings,  Ferruginous 
Thrushes,  Wood  Thrush,  Golden-crowned  Thrush,  Blue- 
gray  Flycatcher,  Blue-eyed  Warbler,  Blue  Yellow-back, 
Chestnut-sided,  Black-and-White  Creepers,  Nuthatch, 
Kingbirds,  Red  Tanagers,  Cardinal  Grosbeaks,  common 
House  Wren,  Blue-winged  Teals,  Swans,  large  Blue  Her- 
ons, Crows,  Turkey-buzzards,  and  a  Peregrine  Falcon, 
Red-tailed  Hawks,  Red-headed,  Red-bellied,  and  Golden- 
winged  Woodpeckers,  and  Partridges.  Also,  innumer- 
able "Gopher"  hills,  one  Ground-hog,  one  Rabbit,  two 
Wild  Turkeys,  one  Whippoorwill,  one  Maryland  Yellow- 
throat,  and  Swifts.  We  left  the  shore  with  a  strong  gale 
of  wind,  and  after  having  returned  to  our  proper  channel, 
and  rounded  the  island  below  our  troublesome  situation 
of  last  night,  we  were  forced  to  come  to  under  tie  main 
shore.  Here  we  killed  and  saw  all  that  is  enumerated 
above,  as  well  as  two  nests  of  the  White-headed  Eagle. 
We  are  now  for  the  night  at  a  wooding-place,  where  we 
expect  to  purchase  some  fresh  provisions,  if  any  there  are; 
and  as  it  is  nine  o'clock  I  am  off  to  bed. 

Friday,  May  5.  The  appearance  of  the  weather  this 
morning  was  rather  bad;  it  was  cloudy  and  lowering,  but 
instead  of  rain  we  have  had  a  strong  southwesterly  wind 
to  contend  with,  and  on  this  account  our  day's  work  does 
not  amount  to  much.  At  this  moment,  not  eight  o'clock, 
we  have  stopped  through  its  influence. 

At  half-past  twelve  we  reached  the  Black  Snake  Hills ^ 

'  Black  Snake  Hills  (in  the  vicinity  of  vSt.  Joseph,  Mo.).  "On  the 
24th  we  saw  the  chain  of  the  Blacksnake  Hills,  but  we  met  with  so  many 
obstacles  in  the  river  that  we  did  not  reach  them  till  towards  evening. 
They  are  moderate  eminences,  with  many  singular  forms,  with  an  alterna- 
tion of  open  green  and  wooded  spots."  (Maximilian,  Prince  of  Wied, 
'  Travels  in  North  America,"  p.  1 23.) 


472 


AUDUBON 


1^1 


settlement,  and  I  was  delighted  to  see  this  truly  beautiful 
site  for  a  town  or  city,  as  will  be  no  doubt  some  fifty 
years  hence.  The  hills  themselves  are  about  200  feet 
above  the  river,  and  slope  down  gently  into  the  beautiful 
prairie  that  extends  over  some  thousands  of  acres,  <of  the 
richest  land  imaginable.  Five  of  our  trappers  did  not 
come  on  board  at  the  ringing  of  the  bell,  and  had  to  walk 
several  miles  across  a  bend  to  join  us  and  be  taken  on 
again.  We  have  not  seen  much  game  this  day,  probably 
on  account  of  the  high  wind.  We  saw,  however,  a  large 
flock  of  Willets,  two  Gulls,  one  Grebe,  many  Blue-winged 
Teals,  Wood  Ducks,  and  Coots,  and  one  pair  of  mated 
Wild  Geese.  This  afternoon  a  Black  Squirrel  was  seen. 
This  morning  I  saw  a  Marmot;  and  Sprague,  a  Sciurm 
macrourus  of  Say.  On  examination  of  the  Finch  killed  by 
Harris  yesterday,  I  found  it  to  be  a  new  species,  and  I  have 
taken  its  measurements  across  this  sheet  of  paper. ^  It 
was  first  seen  on  the  ground,  then  on  low  bushes,  then  on 
large  trees;  no  note  was  heard.  Two  others,  that  were 
females  to  all  appearance,  could  not  be  procured  on  ac- 
count of  their  extreme  shyness.  We  saw  the  Indigo-bird, 
Barn  Swallows,  Purple  Martin,  and  Greenbacks;^  also,  a 
Rabbit  at  the  Black  Snake  Hills.  The  general  aspect  of 
the  river  is  materially  altered  for  the  worse;  it  has  be- 
come much  more  crooked  or  tortuous,  in  some  places  very 
wide  with  sand-banks  naked  and  dried,  so  that  the  wind 
blows  the  sand  quite  high.  In  one  place  we  came  to  a 
narrow  and  swift  chute,  four  miles  above  the  Black  Snake 

1  The  measurements  in  pen  and  ink  are  marked  over  the  writing  of 
the  journal.  As  already  staled,  this  bird  is  Fringilla  harrisii:  Aud.  B.  of 
Am.  vii.,  1844,  p.  331,  pi.  484.  It  had  previously  been  discovered  by  Mr. 
Thomas  Nuttall,  who  ascended  the  Missouri  with  Mr.  J.  K.  Townsend  in 
1834,  and  named  by  him  F.  quertda  in  his  Man.  Orn.  2d  ed.  i.,  1840,  p.  SSS- 
Its  modern  technical  name  is  Zonotrichia  queruta,  though  it  continues  to 
bear  the  English  designation  of  Harris's  Finch.  —  E.  C. 

2  That  is,  the  Green-backed  or  White-bellied  Swallow,  Hirundo  bicolor 
of  Vieillot,  Tachycineta  bicolor  of  Cabanis,  and  Iridoprocne  bicolor  of  Coues. 
—  E.G. 


ll 

li 


THE  MISSOURI  RIVER  JOURNALS 


473 


truly  beautiful 
Dubt  some  fifty 
about  200  feet 
to  the  beautiful 
[)f  acres, 'of  the 
rappers  did  not 
and  had  to  walk 
nd  be  taken  on 
is  day,  probably 
lowever,  a  large 
any  Blue-winged 
LC  pair  of  mated 
quirrel  was  seen, 
irague,  a  Sciurus 
Q  Finch  killed  by 
pecies,  and  I  have 
let  of  paper.  1     It 

V  bushes,  then  on 
others,  that  were 
^  procured  on  ac- 

V  the  Indigo-bird, 
;enbacks;2  also,  a 

general  aspect  of 
worse;  it  has  be- 
some  places  very 
so  that  the  wind 
ice  we  came  to  a 
e  the  Black  Snake 

ed  over  the  writing  of 
la  harrisii:  Aud.  B.  of 
een  discovered  by  Mr. 
Mr.  J.  K..  Townsend  in 
n.  2d  ed.  i.,  184°.  P-  5SS- 
though  it  continues  to 

E.  C. 

,  wallow,  Hirundo  bicolor 

,procm  bicolor  of  Coues, 


Hills,  that  in  time  of  extreme  high  water  must  be  very 
difficult  of  ascent.  During  these  high  winds  it  is  very 
hard  to  steer  the  boat,  and  also  to  land  her.  The  settlers 
on  the  Missouri  side  of  the  river  appear  to  relish  the 
sight  of  a  steamer  greatly,  for  they  all  come  to  look  at 
this  one  as  we  pass  the  different  settlements.  The  ther- 
mometer has  fallen  sixteen  degrees  since  two  o'clock, 
and  it  feels  now  very  chilly. 

Satinday,  May  6,  High  wind  all  night  and  cold  this 
morning,  with  the  wind  still  blowing  so  hard  that  at  half- 
past  seven  we  stopped  on  the  western  shore,  under  a  range 
of  high  hills,  but  on  the  weather  side  of  them.  We  took 
our  guns  and  went  off,  but  the  wind  was  so  high  we  saw 
but  little;  I  shot  a  Wild  Pigeon  and  a  Whippoorwill, 
female,  that  gave  me  great  trouble,  as  I  never  saw  one  so 
remarkably  wild  before.  Bell  shot  two  Gray  Squirrels 
and  several  Vireos,  and  Sprague,  a  Kentucky  Warbler. 
Traces  of  Turkeys  and  of  Deer  were  seen.  We  also  saw 
three  White  Pelicans,  but  no  birds  to  be  added  to  our 
previous  lot,  and  I  have  no  wish  to  keep  a  strict  account 
of  the  number  of  the  same  species  we  daily  see.  It  is 
now  half-past  twelve;  the  wind  is  still  very  high,  but  our 
captain  is  anxious  to  try  to  proceed.  We  have  cut  some 
green  wood,  and  a  considerable  quantity  of  hickory  for  axe- 
handles.  In  cutting  down  a  tree  we  caught  two  young 
Gray  Squirrels.  A  Pewee  Flycatcher,  of  some  species  or 
other,  was  caught  by  the  steward,  who  ran  down  the  poor 
thing,  which  was  starved  on  account  of  the  cold  and 
windy  weather.  Harris  shot  another  of  the  new  Finches, 
a  male  also,  and  I  saw  what  I  believe  is  the  female,  but 
it  flew  upwards  of  200  yards  without  stopping.  Bell  also 
shot  a  small  Vireo,  which  is  in  all  probability  a  new  spe- 
cies ^  (to  me  at  least).     We  saw  a  Goshawk,   a  Marsh 

^  The  surmise  proved  to  be  correct;  for  this  is  the  now  well-known 
Bell's  Vireo,  Vireo  bellii  of  Audubon :  B.  of  Am.  vii.,  1844,  p.  333,  pi.  485. 
-E.  C. 


474 


AUDUBON 


Hawk,  and  a  great  number  of  Blackbirds,  but  could  not 
ascertain  the  species.^  The  wind  was  still  high  when  we 
left  our  stopping  place,  but  we  progressed,  and  this  after- 
noon came  alongside  of  a  beautiful  prairie  of  some  thou- 
sands of  acres,  reaching  to  the  hills.  Here  we  stopped 
to  put  out  our  Iowa  Indians,  and  also  to  land  the  goods 
we  had  for  Mr.  Richardson,  the  Indian  agent.  The  goods 
were  lam'  'd,  but  at  the  wrong  place,  as  the  Agent's  agent 
would  not  receive  them  there,  on  account  of  a  creek  above, 
which  cannot  at  present  be  crossed  with  wagons.  Our 
Sac  Indian  chief  started  at  once  across  the  prairie  towards 
the  hills,  on  his  way  to  his  wigwam,  and  we  saw  Indians 
on  their  way  towards  us,  running  on  foot,  and  many  on 
horseback,  generally  riding  double  on  skins  or  on  Spanish 
saddles.  Even  the  squaws  rode,  and  rode  well  too !  We 
counted  about  eighty,  amongst  whom  were  a  great  num- 
ber of  youths  of  different  ages.  I  was  heartily  glad  that 
our  own  squad  of  them  left  us  here.  I  observed  that 
though  they  had  been  absent  from  their  friends  and  rela- 
tives, they  never  shook  hands,  or  paid  any  attention  to 
them.  When  the  freight  was  taken  in  we  proceeded,  and 
the  whole  of  the  Indians  followed  along  the  shore  at  a 
good  round  run;  those  on  horseback  at  times  struck  into 
a  gallop.  I  saw  more  of  these  poor  beings  when  we  ap- 
proached the  landing,  perched  and  seated  on  the  promon- 
tories about,  and  many  followed  the  boat  to  the  landing. 
Here  the  goods  were  received,  and  Major  Richardson 
came  on  board,  and  paid  freight.  He  told  us  we  were 
now  in  the  country  of  the  Fox  Indians  as  well  as  that  of 
the  lowas,  that  the  number  about  him  is  over  1200,  and 
that  his  district  extends  about  seventy  miles  up  the  river. 
He  appears  to  be  a  pleasant  man;   toid  us  that  Hares^ 

^  No  doubt  the  species  named  Brewer's  Blackbird,  Quiscalus  hrewerii  of 
Audubon,  B.  of  Am.  vii.,  1844,  p.  345,  pi.  492,  now  known  as  Scolecophagm 
cyaiiocephalus.  —  E.  C. 

"^  The  Prairie  Hare,  Lepus  virginianus  of  Richardson,  Fauna  Boreali- 
Americana,  i.,  1829,  p.  229,  later  described  as  Z.  axmpestris  by  Bachman, 


Is,  but  could  not 
ill  high  when  we 
d,  and  this  after- 
rie  of  some  thou- 
Here  we  stopped 

0  land  the  goods 
Lgent.     The  goods 
the  Agent's  agent 
t  of  a  creek  above, 
ith  wagons.     Our 
the  prairie  towards 
,nd  we  saw  Indians 
bot,  and  many  on 
kins  or  on  Spanish 
ode  well  tool    We 
were  a  great  num- 
,  heartily  glad  that 

I  observed  that 
ir  friends  and  rela- 
d  any  attention  to 

1  we  proceeded,  and 
ong  the  shore  at  a 
It  times  struck  into 
beings  when  we  ap- 
ated  on  the  promon- 
boat  to  the  landing. 

Major  Richardson 
le  told  us  we  were 
tis  as  well  as  that  of 
m  is  over  1200,  and 
yr  miles  up  the  river, 
toid  us  that  Hares' 

Lbird.  Quiscalus  hrnverii  of 
w  known  as  Scolaofhagm 

ichardson,  Fauna  Boreali- 
L.  camfestris  by  Bachman, 


COLUMB.\    I'ASSEKIN.A,   GROUND   DOVE. 

(Now  Ct.Umiliii;nlliiui  pissc-rma  terrestri.) 
I'KOM  Tin-:  I'NiTm.isiiiin  drawinc;  hv  j.  j.  audubon,  1838. 


w 

tal 

trii 

dui 

to 

the 

puc 

can 

Cro 

eyei 

Sa\\ 

and 

of  i 

and 

Jh 

Gra) 
pilot 
large 
that 
founc 
abov^ 
W 
Hair 
scare 
the 
bree( 
Gold 
Snipe 


singir 


bad 
flowe 


o 


Journ. 
^'  town. 
the  cha; 
"Jack-r; 


THE  MISSOURI  RIVER  JOURNALS 


475 


were  very  abundant  —  by  the  way,  Harris  saw  one  to-day. 
We  are  now  landed  on  the  Missouri  side  of  the  river,  and 
taking  in  wood.  We  saw  a  Pigeon  Hawk,  found  Par- 
tridges paired,  and  some  also  in  flocks.  When  we  landed 
during  the  high  wind  we  saw  a  fine  sugar  camp  belonging 
to  Indians.  I  was  pleased  to  see  that  many  of  the  troughs 
they  make  are  formed  of  bark,  and  that  both  ends  are 
puckered  and  tied  so  as  to  resemble  a  sort  of  basket  or 
canoe.  They  had  killed  many  Wild  Turkeys,  Geese,  and 
Crows,  all  of  which  they  eat.  We  also  procured  a  White- 
eyed  and  a  Warbling  Vireo,  and  shot  a  male  Wild  Pigeon. 
Saw  a  Gopher  throwing  out  the  dirt  with  his  fore  feet 
and  not  from  his  pouches.  I  was  within  four  or  five  feet 
of  it.  Shot  a  Humming-bird,  saw  a  Mourning  Warbler, 
and  Cedar-birds. 

May  7,  Sunday.  Fine  weather,  but  cool.  Saw  several 
Gray  Squirrels  and  one  Black.  I  am  told  by  one  of  our 
pilots,  who  has  k'Ued  seven  or  eight,  that  they  are  much 
larger  than  Sciurus  macrourus,  that  the  hair  is  coarse, 
that  they  are  clumsy  in  their  motions,  and  that  they  are 
found  from  the  Black  Snake  Hills  to  some  distance 
above  the  Council  Bluffs. 

We  landed  to  cut  wood  at  eleven,  and  we  went  ashore. 
Harris  killed  another  of  the  new  Finches,  a  male  also;  the 
scarcity  of  the  females  goes  on,  proving  how  much  earlier 
the  males  sally  forth  on  their  migrations  towards  the 
breeding  grounds.  We  saw  five  Sand-hill  Cranes,  some 
Goldfinches,  Yellowshanks,  Tell-tale  Godwits,  Solitary 
Snipes,  and  the  woods  were  filled  with  House  Wrens 
singing  their  merry  songs.  The  place,  however,  was  a 
bad  one,  for  it  was  a  piece  of  bottom  land  that  had  over- 
flowed, and  was  sadly  muddy  and  sticky.     At  twelve  the 

Journ.  Philad.  Acad,  vii.,  1837,  p.  349,  and  then  described  and  figured  as 
L  townsendii  by  Aud.  and  Bach.,  Quad.  N.  A.  i.,  1849,  p.  25,  pi.  3.  This  is 
the  characteristic  species  of  the  Great  Plains,  where  it  is  commonly  called 
"Jack-rabbit."  — E.  C. 


Ii^!l| 


^ 


ffl 


^, 


476 


AUDUBON 


bell  rang  for  Harris,  Bell,  and  me  to  return,  which  we  did 
at  once,  as  dinner  was  preparing  for  the  table.  Talking 
of  dinner  makes  me  think  of  giving  you  the  hours,  usu- 
ally, of  our  meals.  Breakfast  at  half-past  six,  dinner  at 
half-past  twelve,  tea  or  supper  at  seven  or  later  as  the 
case  may  be.  We  have  not  taken  much  wood  here ;  it  is 
ash,  but  quite  green.  We  saw  Orchard  Orioles,  Blue- 
gray  Flycatchers,  Great-crested  and  Common  Pewees, 
Mallards,  Pileated  Woodpeckers,  Blue  Jays,  and  Blue- 
birds ;  heard  a  Marsh  Wren,  saw  a  Crow,  a  Wood  Thrush, 
and  Water  Thrush.  Indigo-birds  and  Parrakeets  plenti- 
ful. This  afternoon  we  went  into  the  pocket  of  a  sand 
bar,  got  aground,  and  had  to  back  out  for  almost  a  mile. 
We  saw  an  abundance  of  Ducks,  some  White  Pelicans, 
and  an  animal  that  we  guessed  was  a  Skunk.  We  have 
run  about  fifty  miles,  and  therefore  have  done  a  good 
day's  journey.  We  have  passed  the  mouths  of  several 
small  rivers,  and  also  some  very  fine  prairie  land,  ex- 
tending miles  towards  the  hills.  It  is  now  nine  o'clock, 
a  beautiful  night  with  the  moon  shining.  We  have 
seen  several  Ravens,  and  White-headed  Eagles  on  their 
nests. 

May  8,  Monday.  A  beautiful  calm  day ;  the  country 
we  saw  was  much  the  same  as  that  we  passed  yesterday, 
and  nothing  of  great  importance  took  place  except  that 
at  a  wooding-place  on  the  very  verge  of  the  State  of 
Missouri  (the  northwest  corner)  Bell  killed  a  Black 
Squirrel  which  friend  Bachman  has  honored  with  the 
name  of  my  son  John,  Sciurus  .Audubonii.^  We  are  told 
that  this  species  is  not  uncommon  here.  It  was  a  good- 
sized  adult  male,  and  Sprague  drew  an  outline  of  it. 
Harris  shot  another  specimen  of  the  new  Finch.  We  saw 
Parrakeets  and  many  small  birds,  but  nothing  new  or 
very  rare.     This   evening  I  wrote  a  long  letter  to  each 

1  Not  a  good  species,  but  the  dusky  variety  of  the  protean  Western  Fox 
Squirrel,  Sciurus  ludovicianus  ;  for  which,  see  a  previous  note.  —  E.  C. 


house, 
and  J. 
having 
May 
until  t 
Rose-b 
and  a  c 
cans,  G 
his  fee 
the  doc 
noon  W( 
where  r 
well  as 
priately 
at  home 
off.     W 
our  land 
cargo  foi 
which  ni 
for  with 
at  St.   L 
Fish  Ha^ 
Rough-w 
headed 
that    the 
Blue   He 
of    Swaii 
and,  mon 
seen  by 
tigued  an 
At  Belle 
who  acts 
is  no  gre 
good  trad 

'  Or  BelL 
lie  Missouri 


Pf^'l  I 


THE  MISSOURI  RIVER  JOURNALS 


477 


I,  which  we  did 
able.  Talking 
;he  hours,  usu- 
:  six,  dinner  at 
or  later  as  the 
vood  here ;  it  is 

Orioles,  Blue- 
mmon  Pewees, 
fays,  and  Blue- 
1  Wood  Thrush, 
irrakeets  plenti- 
jocket  of  a  sand 
>r  almost  a  mile. 
White  Pelicans, 
Icunk.  We  have 
ive  done  a  good 
louths  of  several 
prairie  land,  ex- 
low  nine  o'clock, 
hing.      We  have 

Eagles  on  their 

day;   the  country 
Dassed  yesterday, 
place  except  that 
of   the   State  of 
killed    a  Black 
honored  with  the 
lii.^    We  are  told 
It  was  a  good- 
^n   outline   of  it. 
Finch.     We  saw 
nothing  new  or 
)ng  letter  to  each 

,e  protean  Western  Fox 
ious  note.  —  E.  C. 


house,  John  Bachman,  Gideon  B.  Smith  of  Baltimore, 
and  J.  W.  H.  Page  of  New  Bedford,  with  the  hope  of 
having  them  forwarded  from  the  Council  Bluffs. 

May  0,  Tuesday.  Another  fine  day.  After  running 
until  eleven  o'clock  we  stopped  to  cut  wood,  and  two 
Rose-breasted  Grosbeaks  were  shot,  a  common  Blue-bird, 
and  a  common  Northern  Titmouse.  We  saw  White  Peli- 
cans, Geese,  Ducks,  etc.  One  of  our  trappers  cut  one  of 
his  feet  dreadfully  with  his  axe,  and  Harris,  who  is  now 
the  doctor,  attended  to  it  as  best  he  could.  This  after- 
noon we  reached  the  famous  establishment  of  Belle  Vue^ 
where  resides  the  brother  of  Mr.  Sarpy  of  St.  Louis,  as 
well  as  the  Indian  Agent,  or,  as  he  might  be  more  appro- 
priately called,  the  Custom  House  oflficer.  Neither  were 
at  home,  both  away  on  the  Platte  River,  about  300  miles 
off.  We  had  a  famous  pack  of  rascally  Indians  awaiting 
our  landing  —  filthy  and  half -starved.  We  landed  some 
cargo  for  the  establishment,  and  I  saw  a  trick  of  the  trade 
which  made  me  laugh.  Eight  cords  of  wood  were  paid 
for  with  five  tin  cups  of  sugar  and  three  of  coffee  —  value 
at  St.  Louis  about  twenty-five  cents.  We  have  seen  a 
Fish  Hawk,  Savannah  Finch,  Green-backed  Swallows, 
Rough-winged  Swallows,  Martins,  Parrakeets,  Black- 
headed  Gulls,  Blackbirds,  and  Cow-birds;  I  will  repeat 
that  the  woods  are  fairly  alive  with  House  Wrens. 
Blue  Herons,  Emberiza  pallida  —  Clay-colored  Bunting 
of  Swainson  —  Henslow's  Bunting,  Crow  Blackbirds; 
and,  more  strange  than  all,  two  large  cakes  of  ice  were 
seen  by  our  pilots  and  ourselves.  I  am  very  much  fa- 
tigued and  will  finish  the  account  of  this  day  to-morrow. 
At  Belle  Vue  we  found  the  brother-in-law  of  old  Provost, 
who  acts  as  clerk  in  the  absence  of  Mr.  Sarpy.  The  store 
is  no  great  affair,  and  yet  I  am  told  that  they  drive  a 
good  trade  with  Indians  on  the  Platte  River,  and  others, 

*  Or  Bellevue,  in  what  is  now  Sarpy  County,  Neb.,  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  Missouri,  a  few  n\iles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Platte.  —  E.  C. 


ppw 


m^ 
mn 

■'■^'1  -t':- 


478 


AUDUBON 


on  this  side  of  the  Missouri.  We  unloaded  some  freight, 
and  pushed  off.  We  saw  here  the  first  ploughing  of  the 
ground  we  have  observed  since  we  left  the  lower  settle- 
ments near  St.  Louis.  We  very  soon  reached  the  post  of 
Fort  Croghan,^  so  called  after  my  old  friend  of  that  name 
with  whom  I  hunted  Raccoons  on  his  father's  plantation 
in  Kentucky  some  thirty-eight  years  ago,  and  whose 
father  and  my  own  were  well  acquainted,  and  fought 
together  in  conjunction  with  George  Washington  and 
Lafayette,  during  the  Revolutionary  War,  against  "  Merrie 
England."  Here  we  found  only  a  few  soldiers,  dragoons; 
their  camp  and  officers  having  been  forced  to  move  across 
the  prairie  to  the  Bluffs,  five  miles.  After  we  had  put 
out  some  freight  for  the  sutler,  we  proceeded  on  until  we 
stopped  for  the  night  a  few  miles  above,  on  the  same  side 
of  the  river.  The  soldiers  assured  us  that  their  parade 
ground,  and  so-called  barracks,  had  been  four  feet  under 
water,  and  we  saw  fair  and  sufficient  evidence  of  this.  At 
this  place  our  pilot  saw  the  first  Yellow-headed  Troupial 
we  have  met  with.  We  landed  for  the  night  under 
trees  covered  by  muddy  deposits  from  the  great  overflow 
of  this  season.  I  slept  soundly,  and  have  this  morning, 
May  10,  written  this. 

May  lOy  Wednesday.  The  morning  was  fine,  and  we 
were  under  way  at  daylight ;  but  a  party  of  dragoons, 
headed  by  a  lieutenant,  had  left  their  camp  four  miles 
distant  from  our  anchorage  at  the  same  time,  and  reached 
the  shore  before  we  had  proceeded  far;  they  fired  a  couple 
of  rifle  shots  ahead  of  us,  and  we  brought  to  at  once. 
The  young  officer  came  on  board,  and  presented  a  letter 
from  his  commander,  Captain  Burgwin,  from  which  we 
found  that  we  had  to  have  our  cargo  examined.     Our  cap- 

^  Vicinity  of  present  Omaha,  Neb.,  and  Council  Bluffs,  la.,  but  somewhat 
above  these  places.  The  present  Council  Bluffs,  in  Iowa,  is  considerably 
below  the  position  of  the  original  Council  Bluff  of  Lewis  and  Clark,  which 
Audubon  presently  notices.  See  "Lewis  and  Clark,"  ed.  of  1893,  p.  66. 
—  E.  C. 


'  The  jourr 
and  at  presen 
permitted  then 
us  of  an  inter 
of  the  military 
Audubon  spea 
vcitted  the  mil 
"Mmredi,  10 
sept  heures,  n 
i  terre.    Je  re 
devoir  I'oblige 
I'ouvrage,  et  pe 
lis  reviennent 
I'ofRcier  i  fai 
qu'il  en  fera  d^ 
of  Audubon's 
wgo  that  no  li 


re 


VI 


nirr- 


THE  MISSOURI  RIVER  JOURNALS 


479 


d  some  freight, 
oughing  of  the 
e  lower  settle- 
hed  the  post  of 
id  of  that  name 
tier's  plantation 
go,    and  whose 
:ed,   and  fought 
Vashington   and 
against  "  Merrie 
Idiers,  dragoons; 
d  to  move  across 
iter  we  had  put 
eded  on  until  we 
on  the  same  side 
that  their  parade 
n  four  feet  under 
lence  of  this.    At 
-headed  Troupial 
the   night   under 
he  great  overflow 
ve  this  morning, 

was  fine,  and  we 
arty  of   dragoons, 
camp  four  miles 
time,  and  reached 
:hey  fired  a  couple 
lught  to  at  once, 
presented  a  letter 
I,  from  which  we 
.mined.     Our  cap- 

kuffs,  la.,  but  somewhat 
(n  Iowa,  is  considerably 
Lewis  and  Clark,  which 
fk,"  ed.  of  1893,  P-  66. 


tain^  was  glad  of  it,  and  so  were  we  all;  for,  finding  that 
it  would  take  several  hours,  we  at  once  ate  our  breakfast, 
and  made  ready  to  go  ashore.  I  showed  my  credentials 
and  orders  from  the  Government,  Major  Mitchell  of  St. 
Louis,  etc.,  and  I  was  therefore  immediately  settled  com- 
fortably. I  desired  to  go  to  see"  the  commanding  officer, 
and  the  lieutenant  very  politely  sent  us  there  on  horse- 
back, guided  by  an  old  dragoon  of  considerable  respecta- 
bility. I  was  mounted  on  a  young  white  horse,  Spanish 
saddle  with  holsters,  and  we  proceeded  across  the  prairie 
towards  the  Bluffs  and  the  camp.  My  guide  was  anx- 
ious to  take  a  short  cut,  and  took  me  across  several  bay- 
ous, one  of  which  was  really  up  to  the  saddle;  but  we 
crossed  that,  and  coming  to  another  we  found  it  so  miry, 
that  his  horse  wheeled  after  two  or  three  steps,  whilst  I 
was  looking  at  him  before  starting  myself;  for  you  all 
well  know  that  an  old  traveller  is,  and  must  be,  prudent. 
We  now  had  to  retrace  our  steps  till  we  reached  the  very 
tracks  that  the  squad  sent  after  us  in  the  morning  had 
taken,  and  at  last  we  reached  the  foot  of  the  Bluffs,  when 
my  guide  asked  me  if  I  "could  ride  at  a  gallop,"  to  which 
not  answering  him,  but  starting  at  once  at  a  round  run, 

*  The  journals  of  Captain  Joseph  A.  Sire,  from  1841  to  1848,  are  extant, 
and  at  present  in  the  possession  of  Captain  Joseph  La  Barge,  who  has 
permitted  them  to  be  examined  by  Captain  Chittenden.  The  latter  informs 
us  of  an  interesting  entry  at  date  of  May  10,  1843,  regarding  the  incident 
of  the  military  inspection  of  the  "  Omega  "  for  contraband  liquor,  of  which 
Audubon  speaks.  But  the  inside  history  of  how  cleverly  Captain  Sire  out- 
witted the  military  does  not  appear  from  the  following  innocent  pa.ssage : 
" Mercredi,  10  May.  Nous  venons  tr^s  bien  jusqu'aux  cfites  a  Hart,  o\\,  \ 
sept  heures,  nous  sommes  somm^s  par  un  officier  de  dragons  de  mettre 
i  terre.  Je  re^ois  une  note  polie  du  Capt.  Burgwin  m'informant  que  son 
devoir  I'oblige  de  faire  visiter  le  bateau.  Aussitot  nous  nous  mettons  ^ 
I'ouvrage,  et  pendant  ce  temps  M.  Audubon  va  faire  une  visite  au  Capitaine. 
lis  reviennent  ensemble  deux  heures  apr^s.  Je  force  en  quelque  sorte 
I'officier  ^  faire  une  recherche  aussi  stricte  que  possible,  mais  \  la  condition 
qu'il  en  fera  de  m€me  avec  les  autres  traiteurs."  The  two  precious  hours 
of  Audubon's  visit  were  utilized  by  the  clever  captain  in  so  arranging  the 
cargo  that  no  liquor  should  be  found  on  board  by  Captain  Burgwin.  —  E.  C. 


i4        '', 


I! 'I!     ' 


fm^: 


480 


AUDUBON 


I  neatly  passed  him  ere  his  horse  was  well  at  the  pace; 
on  we  went,  and  in  a  few  minutes  we  entered  a  beautiful 
dell  or  valley,  and  were  in  sight  of  the  encampment.  We 
reached  this  in  a  trice,  and  rode  between  two  lines  of 
pitched  tents  to  one  at  the  end,  where  I  dismounted,  and 
met  Captain  Burgwin,^  a  young  man,  brought  up  at  West 
Point,  with  whom  I  was  on  excellent  and  friendly  terms 
in  less  time  than  it  has  taken  me  to  write  this  account  of 
our  meeting.  I  showed  him  my  credentials,  at  which  he 
smiled,  and  politely  assured  me  that  I  was  too  well  known 
throughout  our  country  to  need  any  letters.  While  seated 
in  front  of  his  tent,  I  heard  the  note  of  a  bird  new  to  me, 
and  as  it  proceeded  from  a  tree  above  our  heads,  I  looked 
up  and  saw  the  first  Yellow-headed  Troupial  alive  that 
ever  came  across  my  own  migrations.  The  captain 
thought  me  probably  crazy,  as  I  thought  Rafinesque  when 
he  was  at  Henderson ;  for  I  suddenly  started,  shot  at  the 
bird,  and  killed  it.  Afterwards  I  shot  three  more  at  one 
shot,  but  only  one  female  amid  hundreds  of  these  Yel- 
low-headed Blackbirds.  They  are  quite  abundant  here, 
feeding  on  the  surplus  grain  that  drops  from  the  horses' 
troughs ;  they  walked  under,  and  around  the  horses,  with 
as  much  confidence  as  if  anywhere  else.  When  they  rose, 
they  generally  flew  to  the  very  tops  of  the  tallest  trees, 
and  there,  swelling  their  throats,  partially  spreading  their 
wings  and  tail,  they  issue  their  croaking  note,  which  is  a 
compound,  not  to  be  mistaken,  between  that  of  the  Crow 
Blackbird  and  that  of  the  Red-winged  Starling.  After  I 
had  fired  at  them  twice  they  became  quite  shy,  and  all  of 
them  flew  off  to  the  prairies.     I  saw  then  two  Magpies^ 

1  John  Henry  K.  Burgwin,  cadet  at  West  Point  in  1828 ;  in  1843  a  captain 
of  the  ist  Dragoons.  He  died  Feb.  7,  1847,  of  wounds  received  three  days 
before  in  the  assault  on  Pueblo  de  Taos,  New  Mexico.  —  E.  C. 

^  The  question  of  the  specific  identity  of  the  American  and  European 
Magpies  has  been  much  discussed.  Ornithologists  now  generally  compro- 
mise the  case  by  considering  our  bird  to  be  subspecifically  distinct,  under 
the  name  of  Pica  pica  hudsonica.  —  E.  C.        ,  ,  ,    ,..    ,.    ,,  , 


THE  MISSOURI  RIVER  JOURNALS 


481 


well  at  the  pace; 
itered  a  beautiful 
encampment.    We 
veen  two  lines  of 
I  dismounted,  and 
irought  up  at  West 
and  friendly  terms 
-ite  this  account  of 
jntials,  at  which  he 
was  too  well  known 
ters.    While  seated 
E  a  bird  new  to  me, 
our  heads,  I  looked 
Troupial  alive  that 
3ns.      The    captain 
;ht  Rafinesque  when 
started,  shot  at  the 
3t  three  more  at  one 
dreds  of  these  Yel- 
uite   abundant  here, 
)ps  from  the  horses' 
ind  the  horses,  with 
When  they  rose, 
of  the  tallest  trees, 
ially  spreading  their 
ing  note,  which  is  a 
^en  that  of  the  Crow 
.  Starling.     After  1 
quite  shy,  and  all  of 
then  two  Magpies^ 

,t  in  1828;  in  1843  a  captain 
ivounds  received  three  days 
Mexico.  —  E-  C. 
e  American  and  European 
rists  now  generally  compro- 
'bspecifically  distinct,  undei 


;e 


in  a  cage,  that  had  been  caught  in  nooses,  by  the  legs; 
and  their  actions,  voice,  and  general  looks,  assured  me 
as  much  as  ever,  that  they  are  the  very  same  species  as 
that  found  in  Europe.  Prairie  Wolves  are  extremely 
abundant  hereabouts.  They  are  so  daring  that  they 
come  into  the  camp  both  by  day  and  by  night ;  we  found 
their  burrows  in  the  banks  and  in  the  prairie,  and  had 
I  come  here  yesterday  I  should  have  had  a  superb  speci- 
men killed  here,  but  which  was  devoured  by  the  hogs 
belonging  to  the  establishment.  The  captain  and  the 
doctor — Madison^  by  name  —  returned  with  us  to  the 
boat,  and  we  saw  many  more  Yellow-headed  Troupials. 
The  high  Bluffs  back  of  the  prairie  are  destitute  of  stones. 
On  my  way  there  I  saw  abundance  of  Gopher  hills,  two 
Geese  paired,  two  Yellow-crowned  Herons,  Red-winged 
Starlings,  Cowbirds,  common  Crow  Blackbirds,  a  great 
number  of  Baltimore  Orioles,  a  Swallow-tailed  Hawk, 
Yellow  Red-poll  Warbler,  Field  Sparrow,  and  Chipping 
Sparrow.  Sprague  killed  another  of  the  beautiful  Finch. 
Robins  are  very  scarce,  Parrakeets  and  Wild  Turkeys 
plentiful.  The  officers  came  on  board,  and  we  treated 
them  as  hospitably  as  we  could;  they  ate  their  lunch 
with  us,  and  are  themselves  almost  destitute  of  provi- 
sions. Last  July  the  captain  sent  twenty  dragoons  and 
as  many  Indians  on  a  hunt  for  Buffaloes.  During  the 
hunt  they  killed  51  Buffaloes,  104  Deer,  and  10  Elks, 
within  80  miles  of  the  camp.  The  Sioux  Indians  are 
great  enemies  to  the  Potowatamies,  and  very  frequently 
kill  several  of  the  latter  in  their  predatory  excursions 
against  them.  This  kind  of  warfare  has  rendered  the 
Potowatamies  very  cowardly,  which  is  quite  a  remark- 
I  able  change  from  their  previous  valor  and  daring.  Bell 
I  collected  six  different  species  of  shells,  and  found  a  large 

'  No  doubt  Thomas  C.  Madison  of  Virginia,  appointed  Assist.  Surg. 
{U.  S.  A.,  Feb.  27,  1840.    He  served  as  a  surgeon  of  the  Confederacy  during 
I  our  Civil  War,  and  die     Nov.  7,  1866.  —  E.  C. 
VOL.   I.— 31 


lilMlMii! 


482 


AUDUBON 


lump  of  pumice  stone  which  does  float  on  the  water.  We 
left  our  anchorage  (which  means  tied  to  the  shore)  at 
twelve  o'clock,  and  about  sunset  we  did  pass  the  real 
Council  Bluffs.*  Here,  however,  the  bed  of  the  river  is 
utterly  changed,  though  you  may  yet  see  that  which  is 
now  called  the  Old  Missouri.  The  Bluffs  stand,  truly 
speaking,  on  a  beautiful  bank  almost  forty  feet  above  the 
water,  and  run  off  on  a  rich  prairie,  to  the  hills  in  the 
background  in  a  gentle  slope,  that  renders  the  whole 
place  a  fine  and  very  remarkable  spot.  We  tied  up  for 
the  night  about  three  miles  above  them,  and  all  hands 
went  ashore  to  cut  wood,  which  begins  to  be  somewhat 
scarce,  of  a  good  quality.  Our  captain  cut  and  left  sev- 
eral cords  of  green  wood  for  his  return  trip,  at  this  place; 
Harris  and  Bell  went  on  shore,  and  saw  several  Bats,  and 
three  Turkeys.  This  afternoon  a  Deer  was  seen  scamp- 
ering across  the  prairies  until  quite  out  of  sight.  Wild- 
gooseberry  bushes  are  very  abundant,  and  the  fruit  is  said 
to  be  very  good. 

May  11,  Thursday.  We  had  a  night  of  rain,  thunder, 
and  heavy  wind  from  the  northeast,  and  we  did  not  start 
this  morning  till  seven  o'clock,  therefore  had  a  late 
breakfast.  There  was  a  bright  blood-red  streak  on  the 
horizon  at  four  o'clock  that  looked  forbidding,  but  the 
weather  changed  as  we  proceeded,  with,  however,  showers 
of  rain  at  various  intervals  during  the  day.     We  have| 

1  Council  Bluff,  so  named  by  Lewis  and  Clark  on  Aug.  3,  1804,  on  whick 
day  they  and  their  followers,  with  a  number  of  Indians,  including  six  chiefs, 
held  a  council  here,  to  make  terms  with  the  Ottoe  and  Missouri  Indians! 
The  account  of  the  meeting  ends  thus  :  "  The  incident  just  related  indued  I 
us  to  give  to  this  place  the  name  of  the  Council-bluff;  the  situation  of  itisj 
exceedingly  favorable  for  a  fort  and  trading  factory,  as  the  soil  is  well  calf 
culated  for  bricks,  there  is  an  abundance  of  wood  in  the  neighborhood,  audi 
the  air  is  pure  and  healthy."  In  a  foot-note  Dr.  Coues  says :  "  It  was  lattrl 
the  site  of  Fort  Calhoun,  in  the  present  Washington  Co.,  Neb.  We  imiii| 
also  remember,  in  attempting  to  fix  this  spot,  how  much  the  Missouri  1 
altered  its  course  since  1804."  ("  Expedition  of  Lewis  and  Clark,"  M\ 
p.  65.) 


'  This  Wo 
which  Auduh 
North  Ameri 
wherever  he 
stand  that  th 
variations,  fr 
,  grayish  shad« 
named  by  Dr. 
Buffalo  Wolf 
the  dark  vari 
"le  American 
[  now  generally 


THE  MISSOURI  RIVER  JOURNALS 


483 


1  the  water.    "We 
to  the  shore)  at 
lid  pass  the  real 
,ed  of  the  river  is 
see  that  which  is 
Huffs  stand,  truly 
arty  feet  above  the 
;o  the  hills  in  the 
renders  the  whole 
We  tied  up  for 
lem,  and  all  hands 
ns  to  be  somewhat 
n  cut  and  left  sev- 
1  trip,  at  this  place; 
,w  several  Bats,  and 
er  was  seen  scamp- 
)ut  of  sight.     Wild- 
and  the  fruit  is  said 

rht  of  rain,  thunder, 
and  we  did  not  start  | 
lerefore  had  a  late 
,d.red   streak  on  the 

forbidding,  but  the 
th,  however,  showers 

the  day.     We  have] 

PC  on  Aug.  3.  1804.  on  which  I 
fndians.  including  six  chiefs, 
Ittoe  and  Missouri  Ind.m 
Lident  just  related  indued 
l-bluff;  the  situation  of  It 
Vy.asthesoilisweUdl 
3d  in  the  neighborhood  anil 
».Coues  says:  "It  was  later! 

[ington  Co..  Neb.    We  .j 
Ihow  much  the  Missount 

'  of  Lewis  and  Clark."  iSo^l 


now  come  to  a  portion  of  the  river  more  crooked  than 
any  we  have  passed ;  the  shores  on  both  sides  are  evi- 
dently lower,  the  hills  that  curtain  the  distance  are 
further  from  the  shores,  and  the  intervening  space  is 
mostly  prairiC;  more  or  less  overflowed.  We  have  seen 
one  Wolf  on  a  sand-bar,  seeking  for  food,  perhaps  dead 
fish.  The  actions  were  precisely  those  of  a  cur  dog  with 
a  long  tail,  and  the  bellowing  sound  of  the  engine  did  not 
seem  to  disturb  him.  He  trotted  on  parallel  to  the  boat 
for  about  one  mile,  when  we  landed  to  cut  drift-wood. 
Bell,  Harris,  and  I  went  on  shore  to  try  to  have  a  shot  at 
him.  He  was  what  is  called  a  brindle-colored  Wolf,^  of 
the  commra  size.  One  hundred  trappers,  however,  with 
their  axes  at  work,  in  a  few  moments  rather  stopped  his 
progress,  and  when  he  saw  us  coming,  he  turned  back  on 
his  track,  and  trotted  off,  but  Bell  shot  a  very  small  load 
in  the  air  to  see  the  effect  it  would  produce.  The  fellow 
took  two  or  three  leaps,  stopped,  looked  at  us  for  a  mo- 
ment, and  then  started  on  a  gentle  gallop.  When  I  over- 
took his  tracks  they  appeared  small,  and  more  rounded 
than  usual.  I  saw  several  tracks  at  the  same  time,  there- 
fore more  than  one  had  travelled  over  this  great  sandy 
and  muddy  bar  last  night,  if  not  this  morning.  I  lost 
sight  of  him  behind  some  large  piles  of  drift-wood,  and 
could  see  him  no  more.  Turkey-buzzards  were  on  the 
bar,  and  I  thought  that  I  should  have  found  some  dead 

*  This  Wolf  IS  to  be  distinguished  from  the  Prairie  Wolf,  Cants  latrans, 
which  Audubon  has  already  mentioned.  It  is  the  common  large  Wolf  of 
North  America,  of  which  Audubon  has  much  to  say  in  the  sequel;  and 
wherever  he  speaks  of  "  Wolves "  without  specification,  we  are  to  under- 
stand that  this  is  the  animal  meant.  It  occurs  in  several  different  color- 
variations,  from  quite  blackish  through  different  reddish  and  brindled 
grayish  shades  to  nearly  white.  The  variety  above  mentioned  is  that 
named  by  Dr.  Richardson  ^/jw-aM«j,  commonly  known  in  the  West  as  the 
Buffalo  Wolf  and  the  Timber  Wolf.  Mr.  Thomas  Say  named  one  of 
the  dark  varieties  Canis  nubilus  in  1823;  and  naturalists  who  consider 
the  American  Wolf  to  be  specifically  distinct  from  Canis  lupus  of  Europe 
now  generally  name  the  brindled  variety  C.  nubilus  griseo-albus.  —  E.  C. 


Iililii  ■ 


'Am 


484 


AUDUBON 


carcass;  but  on  reaching  the  spot,  nothing  was  there.  A 
fine  large  Raven  passed  at  one  hundred  yards  from  us, 
but  I  did  not  shoot.  Bell  found  a  few  small  shells,  and 
Harris  shot  a  Yellow-rumped  Warbler.  We  have  seen 
several  White  Pelicans,  Geese,  Black-headed  Gulls,  and 
Green-backed  Swallows,  but  nothing  new.  The  night  is 
cloudy  and  intimates  more  rain.  We  are  fast  to  a  wil. 
lowed  shore,  and  are  preparing  lines  to  try  our  luck  at 
catching  a  Catfish  or  so.  I  was  astonished  to  find  how 
much  stiffened  I  was  this  morning,  from  the  exercise  I 
took  on  horseback  yesterday,  and  think  that  now  it 
would  take  me  a  week,  at  least,  to  accustom  my  body  to 
riding  as  I  was  wont  to  do  twenty  years  ago.  The  tim- 
ber is  becoming  more  scarce  as  we  proceed,  and  I  greatly 
fear  that  our  only  opportunities  of  securing  wood  will  be 
those  afforded  us  by  that  drifted  on  the  bars. 

May  12,  Friday.  The  morning  was  foggy,  thick,  and 
calm.  We  passed  the  river  called  the  Sioux  Pictoiit^i 
small  stream  formerly  abounding  with  Beavers,  Otters, 
Muskrats,  etc.,  but  now  quite  destitute  of  any  of  these 
creatures.  On  going  along  the  banks  bordering  a  long 
and  wide  prairie,  thick  with  willows  and  other  small 
brush-wood,  we  saw  four  Black-tailed  Deer*  immediately 
on  the  bank ;  they  trotted  away  without  appearing  to  be 
much  alarmed ;  after  a  few  hundred  yards,  the  two  larg- 
est, probably  males,  raised  themselves  on  their  hind  feet 
and  pawed  at  each  other,  after  the  manner  of  stallions, 

1  Little  Sioux  River  of  present  geography,  in  Harrison  Co.,  Iowa :  see 
"  Lewis  and  Clark,"  ed.  of  1893,  P-  69.  — E.  C. 

"  Otherwise  known  as  the  Mule  Deer,  from  the  great  size  of  the  eau,  I 
and  the  peculiar  shape  of  the  tail,  which  is  white  with  a  black  tuft  at  the 
tip,  and  suggests  that  of  the  Mule.  It  is  a  fine  large  species,  next  to  the 
Elk  or  Wapiti  in  stature,  and  first  became  generally  known  from  the  expe- 
dition of  Lewis  and  Clark.  It  is  the  Cervus  macrotis  of  Say,  figured  and 
described  under  this  name  by  Aud.  and  Bach.  Quad.  N.  A.  ii.,  1851,  p.  206, 
pi.  78,  and  commonly  called  by  later  naturalists  Cariacus  macrotis.  But  its 
first  scientific  designation  is  Damelaphus  hemionus,  given  by  C.  S.  Rafinesqui 
in  1817.  — E.  C. 


THE  MISSOURI  RIVER  JOURNALS 


48s 


ng  was  there.     A 
id  yards  from  us, 
small  shells,  and 
We  have  seen 
leaded  Gulls,  and 
;ew.     The  night  is 
are  fast  to  a  wil- 
to  try  our  luck  at 
lished  to  find  how 
rom  the  exercise  I 
think  that   now  it 
;custom  my  body  to 
ars  ago.     The  tim- 
oceed,  and  I  greatly 
:uring  wood  will  be 
,e  bars. 

IS  foggy,  thick,  and 

he  Sioux  Pictoiit}i 

ith  Beavers,  Otters, 

|:ute  of  any  of  these 

ks  bordering  a  long 

ws  and  other  small 

Deer  2  immediately 

out  appearing  to  be 

yards,  the  two  larg- 

s  on  their  hind  feet 

manner  of  stallions, 

n  Harrison  Co.,  Iowa:  see  j 

_  the  great  size  of  the  ears, 
Ltewith  a  black  tuft  at  the 
;  large  species,  next  to  the 
rally  known  from  the  expe- 
^acrotisoi  Say,  figured  and 
3uad.  N.  A.ii.,i8si.P-2«^ 
Cariacus  macrotis.  But  its  I 
given  by  C.S.Rafinesqae 


They  trotted  off  again,  stopping  often,  but  after  a  while 
disappeared ;  we  saw  them  again  some  hundreds  of  yards 
farther  on,  when,  becoming  suddenly  alarmed,  they 
bounded  off  until  out  of  sight.  They  did  not  trot  or  run 
irregularly  as  our  Virginian  Deer  does,  and  their  color 
was  of  a  brownish  cast,  whilst  our  common  Deer  at  this 
season  is  red.  Could  we  have  gone  ashore,  we  might  in 
all  probability  have  killed  one  or  two  of  them.  We 
stopped  to  cut  wood  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river, 
where  we  went  on  shore,  and  there  saw  many  tracks  of 
Deer,  lilk,  Wolves,  and  Turkeys.  In  attempting  to  cross 
a  muddy  place  to  shoot  at  some  Yellow-headed  Troupials 
that  were  abundant,  I  found  myself  almost  mired,  and 
returned  with  difficulty.  We  only  shot  a  Blackburn ian 
Warbler,  a  Yellow-winged  ditto,  and  a  few  Finches. 
We  have  seen  more  Geese  than  usual  as  well  as  Mal- 
lards and  Wood  Ducks.  This  afternoon  the  weather 
cleared  up,  and  a  while  before  sunset  we  passed  under 
Wood's  Bluffs,^  so  called  because  a  man  of  that  name 
fell  overboard  from  his  boat  while  drunk.  We  saw 
there  many  Bank  Swallows,  and  afterwards  we  came  in 
view  of  the  Blackbird  Hill,^  where   the  famous    Indian 

1  Wood's  Bluff  has  long  ceased  to  be  known  by  this  name,  but  there  is  no 
doubt  from  what  Audubon  next  says  of  Blackbird  Hill,  that  the  bluff  in 
question  is  that  on  the  west  or  right  bank  of  the  river,  at  and  near  Decatur, 
Burt  Co.,  Neb. ;  the  line  between  Burt  and  Blackbird  counties  cuts  through 
the  bluff,  leaving  most  of  it  in  the  latter  county.  See  Lewis  and  Clark,  ed. 
of  1893,  p.  71,  date  of  Aug.  10,  1804,  where  "  a  cliff  of  yellow  stone  on  the 
left"  is  mentioned.  This  is  Wood's  Bluff;  the  situation  is  750  miles  up 
the  river  by  the  Commission  Charts.  —  E.  C. 

"^  Blackbird  Hill.  "  Aug.  Ii  [1804].  .  .  .  We  halted  on  the  south  side  for 
the  purpose  of  examining  a  spot  where  one  of  the  great  chiefs  of  the  Mahas 
[Omahas],  named  Blackbird,  who  died  about  four  years  ago,  of  the  small- 
pox, was  buried.  A  hill  of  yellow  soft  sandstone  rises  from  the  river  in 
bluffs  of  various  heights,  till  it  ends  in  a  knoll  about  300  feet  above  the 
water;  on  the  top  of  this  a  mound,  of  twelve  feet  diameter  at  the  base, 
and  six  feet  high,  is  raised  over  the  body  of  the  deceased  king,  a  pole 
about  eight  feet  high  is  fixed  in  the  centre,  on  which  we  placed  a  white  flag, 
bordered  with  red,  blue,  and  white.    Blackbird  seems  to  have  been  a  person 


!  iiiiiii' ; 


486 


AUDUBON 


chief  of  that  name  was  buried,  at  his  request,  on  his 
horse,  whilst  the  animal  was  alive.  We  are  now  fast  to 
the  shore  opposite  this  famed  bluff.  We  cut  good  ash 
wood  this  day,  and  have  made  a  tolerable  run,  say  forty 
miles. 

Saturday,  May  lo.  This  morning  was  extremely  foggy, 
although  I  could  plainly  see  the  orb  of  day  trying  to  force 
its  way  through  the  haze.  While  this  lasted  all  hands 
were  engaged  in  cutting  wood,  and  we  did  not  leave  our 
fastening- place  till  seven,  to  the  great  grief  of  our  com- 
mander. During  the  wood  cutting.  Bell  walked  to  the 
top  of  the  hills,  and  shot  two  Lark  Buntings,  males, 
and  a  Lincoln's  Finch.  After  a  while  we  passed  under 
some  beautiful  bluffs  surmounted  by  many  cedars,  and 
these  bluffs  were  composed  of  fine  white  sandstone,  of 
a  soft  texture,  but  very  beautiful  to  the  eye.     In  several 

of  great  consideration,  for  ever  since  his  death  he  has  been  supplied  with 
provisions,  from  time  to  time,  by  the  superstitious  regard  of  the  Mahas." 
("  Expedition  of  Lewis  and  Clark,"  by  Elliott  Coues,  1893,  p.  71.) 

"  The  7th  of  May  (1833)  we  reached  the  chain  of  hills  on  the  left  bank; 
.  .  .  these  are  called  Wood's  Hills,  and  do  not  extend  very  far.  On  one  of 
them  we  saw  a  small  conical  mound,  which  is  the  grave  of  the  celebrated 
Omaha  chief  Washinga-Sabba  (the  Blackbird).  In  James' '  Narrative  of 
Major  Long's  Expedition,'  is  a  circumstantial  account  of  this  remarkable  and 
powerful  chief,  who  was  a  friend  to  the  white  man;  he  contrived,  by  means 
of  arsenic,  to  make  himself  feared  and  dreaded,  and  passed  for  a  magician. 
.  .  .  An  epidemical  smallpox  carried  him  off,  with  a  great  part  of  his  nation, 
in  1800,  and  he  was  buried,  sitting  upright,  upon  a  live  mule,  at  the  top  of  a 
green  hill  on  Wakonda  Creek.  When  dying  he  gave  orders  they  should 
bury  him  on  that  hill,  with  his  fr.ce  turned  to  the  country  of  the  whites." 
("  Travels  in  North  America,"  Maximilian,  Prince  of  Wied.) 

Irving,  in  chap.  xvi.  of  "  Astoria,"  gives  a  long  account  of  l^jackbird, 
based  on  Bradbury  and  Brackenridge,  but  places  his  death  in  1802,  incor- 
rectly ;  and  ends  :  "  The  Missouri  washes  the  base  of  the  promontory,  and , 
after  winding  and  doubling  in  many  links  and  mazes,  returns  to  within  nine 
hi.ndred  yards  of  its  starting-place;  so  that  for  thirty  miles  the  voyager 
fi.ids  himself  continually  near  to  this  singular  promontory,  as  if  spell  bouno. 
it  was  the  dying  command  of  Blacl:bird,  that  ^'.-^  tomb  should  be  on  the 
summit  of  this  hill,  in  which  he  should  be  interred,  seated  on  his  favorite 
horse,  that  he  might  overlook  his  ancient  domain,  and  behold  the  backs  of  | 
the  white  men  as  they  came  up  the  river  to  trade  with  his  people." 


?r 


THE  MISSO.  'RI  RIVER  JOURNALS 


487 


i  request,  on  his 
e  are  now  fast  to 
We  cut  good  ash 
ble  run,  say  forty 

s  extremely  foggy, 
day  trying  to  force 
s  lasted  all  hands 
did  not  leave  our 
;  grief  of  our  com- 
Bell  walked  to  the 
:   Buntings,  males, 
le  we  passed  under 
^  many  cedars,  and 
white  sandstone,  of 
;he  eye.     In  several 

e  has  been  supplied  with 
as  regard  of  the  Mahas." 

lues,  1893,  p.  71  •) 

,  of  hills  on  the  left  bank; 

Ixtend  very  far.    On  one  of 

e  grave  of  the  celebrated 

In  James'  '  Narrative  of 

junt  of  this  remarkable  and 

m;  he  contrived,  by  means 

and  passed  for  a  magician. 

h  a  great  part  of  his  nation, 

a  live  mule,  at  the  top  of  a 

L  gave  orders  they  should 

'he  country  of  the  whites. 

:eofWied.) 

long  account  of  l^lackbird, 
,3  his  death  in  1802,  incor 
iseof  the  promontory,  and 
,azes,  returns  to  within  nine 

or  thirty  miles  the  voyaget 
[omontory.  as  if  spellbound 
y.  tomb  should  be  on  the 
red,  seated  on  his  favonte 
Land  behold  the  backs  ol  I 

[e  with  his  people." 


places  along  this  bluff  we  saw  clusters  of  nests  of  Swal- 
lows, which  we  all  looked   upon  as   those  of  the   Cliff 
Swallow,  although    I   sav/   not  one   of  the   birds.      We 
stopped  again  to  cut  wood,  for  our  opportunities  are  not 
now  very  convenient.     Went  out,  but  only  shot  a  fine 
large  Turkey-hen,    which   I   brought  down  on  the  wing 
at  about   forty  yards.       It    ran    very   swiftly,    however, 
and  had   not    Harris's  dog  come  to  our  assistance,  we 
might  have  lost  it.     As  it  was,  however,  the  dog  pointed, 
and  Harris    shot    it,   with    my  small  shot-gun,  whilst   I 
was  squatted  on  the  ground  amid  a  parcel  of  low  bushes. 
I  was  astonished  to  see  how  many  of  the  large  shot  I 
had   put   into  her  body.     This  hen  weighed  ii|  pounds. 
She  had  a  nest,  no  doubt,  but  we  could  not  find  it.     We 
saw  a  good   number  of   Geese,  though  fewer  than  yes- 
terday ;  Ducks  also.     We  passed  many  fine  prairies,  and 
in  one  place  I  was  surprised  to  see  the  richness  of  the 
bottom  lands.     We  saw  this  morning  eleven  Indians  of 
the  Omaha  tribe.     They  made  signals  for  us  to   land, 
but  our  captain  never  heeded  them,  for  he   hates  the 
red-skins  as  most  men  hate   the  devil.      One  of  them 
fired  a  gun,  the  group  had  only  one,  and  some  ran  along 
the  shore  for  nearly   two    miles,    particularly  one  old 
gentleman  who  persevered  until  we  came  to  such  bluff 
shores  as  calmed  down  his  spirits.     In  another  place  we 
saw  one  seated  on  a  log,  close  by  the  frame  of  a  c"noe; 
but  he  looked  surly,  and  never  altered   his   position  as 
we  passed.     The  frame  of  this  boat  resembled  an  ordi- 
nary canoe.     It   is   formed  by  both  sticks  giving  a  half 
circle;  the  upper  edges  are  fastened  together  by  a  long 
stick,  as  well  as  the  centre  of  the  bottom.     Outside  of 
this  stretches   a   Buffalo   skin  without  the   hair  on;    it 
is  said  to  make  a  light  and  safe  craft  to  cross  even  the 
turbid,  rapid  stream  —  the  Missouri.     By  simply  looking 
at  them,  one  may  suppose  that  they  are  sufficiently  large 
to  carry  two  or  three  persons.     On  a  sand-bar  afterwards 


mumm 


488 


AUDUBON 


we  saw  three  more  Indians,  also  with  a  canoe  frame,  but 
we  only  interchanged  the  common  yells  usual  on  such 
occasions.  They  looked  as  destitute  and  as  hungry  ?"-  if 
they  had  not  eaten  for  a  week,  and  no  doubt  would  have 
given  much  for  a  bottle  of  whiskey.  At  our  last  landing 
for  wood-cutting,  we  also  went  on  shore,  but  shot  noth- 
ing, not  even  took  aim  at  a  bird ;  and  there  was  an  In- 
dian with  a  flint-lock  rifle,  who  came  on  board  and  stared 
about  until  we  left,  when  he  went  off  with  a  little  tobacco. 
I  pity  these  poor  beings  from  my  heart !  This  evening  we 
came  to  the  burial-ground  bluff  of  Sergeant  Floyd, ^)ne 
of  the  companions  of  the  never-to-be-forgotten  expedition 
of  Lewis  and  Clark,  over  the  Rocky  Mountains,  to  the 
Pacific  Ocean.  A  few  minutes  afterwards,  before  com- 
ing to  Floyd's  Creek,  we  started   several  Turkey-cocks 

1  "  Aug.  20th,  1804.     Here  we  had  the  misfortune  to  lose  one  of  our  ser- 

.geants,  Charles  Floyd.  .  .  .  He  was  buried  on  the  top  of  the  bluff  with  the 

honors  due  to  a  brave  soldier;  the  place  of  his  interment  was  marked  by  a 

cedar  post,  on  which  his  name  and  the  day  of  his  death  were  inscribed." 

("  Expedition  of  Lewis  and  Clark,"  by  Elliott  Coues,  p.  79.) 

"  On  the  following  day  [May  8,  1833]  we  came  to  Floyd's  grave,  where 
the  sergeant  of  that  name  was  buried  by  Lewis  and  Clark.  The  bank  on 
either  side  is  low.  The  left  is  covered  with  poplars  ;  on  the  right,  behind 
the  wood,  rises  a  hill  like  the  roof  of  a  building,  at  the  top  of  which 
Floyd  is  buried.  A  short  stick  marks  the  place  where  he  is  laid,  and  has 
often  been  renewed  by  travellers,  when  the  fires  in  the  prairie  have 
destroyed  it  ("Travels  in  North  America,"  p.  134,  Maximilian,  Prince  of 
Wied.)  — M.  R.  A. 

Floyd's  grave  became  a  landmark  for  many  years,  and  is  noticed  by  most 
of  the  travellers  who  have  written  of  voyaging  on  the  Missouri,  In  1857 
the  river  washed  away  the  face  of  the  bluff  to  such  an  extent  that  the 
remains  were  exposed.  These  were  gathered  and  reburied  about  200  yards 
further  back  on  the  same  bluff.  This  new  grave  became  obliterated  in  the 
course  of  time,  but  in  1895  it  was  rediscovered  after  careful  search.  The 
bones  were  exhumed  by  a  committee  of  citizens  of  Sioux  City ;  and  on 
Aug.  20  of  that  year,  the  91st  anniversary  of  Floyd's  death,  were  reburied  in 
the  same  spot  with  imposing  ceremonies,  attended  by  a  concourse  of  several 
hundred  persons.  A  large  flat  stone  slab,  with  suitable  inscription,  now 
marks  the  spot,  and  the  Floyd  Memorial  Association,  which  was  formed  at 
the  time  of  the  third  burial,  proposes  to  erect  a  monument  to  Floyd  in  a 
park  to  be  established  on  the  bluff.  —  E.  C. 


^  Which  se 
'0  separate  N 
South  Dakota 
come  together 
extends  along 
Bluff  to  the  Hi 


THE  MISSOURI  RIVER  JOURNALS 


489 


;anoe  frame,  but 
s   usual  on  such 
[  as  hungry  ?"•  if 
oubt  would  have 
;  our  last  landing 
J,  but  shot  noth- 
there  was  an  In- 
board and  stared 
h  a  little  tobacco. 
This  evening  we 
geant  Floyd.^  one 
rgotten  expedition 
Mountains,  to  the 
ards,  before  com- 
eral  Turkey-cocks 

ne  to  lose  one  of  our  ser- 
top  of  the  bluff  with  the 
-rmeiit  was  marked  by  a 
s  death  were  inscribed." 

IS,  p.  79-) 

to  Floyd's  grave,  where 
,d  Clark.  The  bank  on 
[ars  ;  on  the  right,  behind 
L,  at  the  top  of  which 
Iwhere  he  is  laid,  and  has 
,,-es  in  the  prairie  have 
34,  Maximilian,  Prince  of 

Irs,  and  is  noticed  by  most 
\  the  Missouri.    In  1857 
Isuch  an  extent  that  the 
reburied  about  200  yards 
lecame  obliterated  in  the 
fter  careful  search.    The 
[s  of  Sioux  City ;  and  on 
ll's  death,  were  reburied  m 
Iby  a  concourse  of  several 
suitable  inscription,  now 
lion,  which  was  formed  at 
lonument  to  Floyd  m  a 


from  their  roost,  and  had  we  been  on  shore  could  have 
accounted  for  more  than  one  of  them.  The  prairies  are 
becoming  more  common  and  more  elevated;  we  have  seen 
more  evergreens  this  day  than  we  have  done  for  two  weeks 
at  least.  This  evening  is  dark  and  rainy,  with  lightning 
and  some  distant  thunder,  and  we  have  entered  the  mouth 
of  the  Big  Sioux  River, ^  where  we  are  fastened  for  the 
night.  This  is  a  clear  stream  and  abounds  with  fish,  and 
on  one  of  the  branches  of  this  river  is  found  the  famous 
red  clay,  of  which  the  precious  pipes,  or  calumets  are 
manufactured.  We  will  try  to  procure  some  on  our  re- 
turn homeward.  It  is  late;  had  the  weather  been  clear, 
and  the  moon,  which  is  full,  shining,  it  was  our  inten- 
tion to  go  ashore,  to  try  to  shoot  Wild  Turkeys ;  but  as 
it  is  pouring  down  rain,  and  as  dark  as  pitch,  we  have 
thrown  our  lines  overboard  and  perhaps  may  catch  a  fish. 
We  hope  to  reach  Vermilion  River  day  after  to-morrow. 
We  saw  abundance  of  the  birds  which  I  have  before 
enumerated. 

May  1^,  Sunday.  It  rained  hard  and  thundered  dur- 
ing the  night;  we  started  at  half-past  three,  when  it  had 
cleared,  and  the  moon  shone  brightly.  T'le  river  is 
crooked  as  ever,  with  large  bars,  and  edged  with  prairies. 
Saw  many  Geese,  and  a  Long-billed  Curlew.  One  poor 
Goose  had  been  wounded  in  the  wing;  when  approached, 
it  dived  for  a  long  distance  and  came  up  along  the 
shore.  Then  we  saw  a  Black  Bear,  swimming  across  the 
river,  and  it  caused  a  commotion.  Some  ran  for  their 
rifles,  and  several  shots  were  fired,  some  of  which  almost 
touched  Bruin;  but  he  kept  on,  and  swam  very  fast. 
Bell  shot  at  it  with    large   shot  and    must  have   touched 

^  Which  separates  Iowa  from  South  Dakota.  Here  the  Missouri  ceases 
to  separate  Nebraska  from  Iowa,  and  begins  to  separate  Nebraska  from 
South  Dakota.  Audubon  is  therefore  at  the  point  where  these  three  States 
come  together.  He  is  also  just  on  the  edge  of  Sioux  City,  Iowa,  which 
extends  along  the  left  bank  of  the  Missouri  from  the  vicinity  of  Floyd's 
Bluff  to  the  Big  Sioux  River.  —  E.  C. 


II 

i 


490 


AUDUBON 


it.  When  it  reached  the  shore,  it  tried  several  times  to 
cHmb  up,  but  each  time  fell  back.  It  at  last  succeeded, 
almost  immediately  started  off  at  a  gallop,  and  was 
soon  lost  to  sight.  We  stopped  to  cut  wood  at  twelve 
o'clock,  in  one  of  the  vilest  places  we  have  yet  come  to. 
The  rushes  were  waist-high,  and  the  whole  underbrush 
tangled  by  grape  vines.  'The  Deer  and  the  Elks  had 
beaten  paths  which  we  followed  for  a  while,  but  we  saw 
only  their  tracks,  and  those  of  Turkeys.  Harris  found  a 
heronry  of  the  common  Blue  Heron,  composed  of  about 
thirty  nests,  but  the  birds  were  shy  and  he  did  not  shoot 
at  any.  Early  this  morning  a  dead  Buffalo  floated  by 
us,  and  after  a  while  the  body  of  a  common  cow,  which 
had  probably  belonged  to  the  fort  above  this.  Mr.  Sire 
told  us  that  at  this  point,  two  years  ago,  he  overtook 
three  of  the  deserters  of  the  company,  who  had  left  a 
keel-boat  in  which  they  were  going  down  to  St.  Louis. 
They  had  a  canoe  when  overtaken ;  he  took  their  guns 
from  them,  destroyed  the  canoe,  and  left  them  there.  On 
asking  him  what  had  become  of  them,  he  said  they  had 
walked  back  to  the  establishment  at  the  mouth  of  Vermil- 
ion River,  which  by  land  is  only  ten  miles  distant;  ten 
miles,  through  such  woods  as  we  tried  in  vain  to  hunt  in, 
is  a  walk  that  I  should  not  like  at  all.  We  stayed  cutting 
wood  for  about  two  hours,  when  we  started  again ;  but  a 
high  wind  arose,  so  that  we  could  not  make  headway,  and 
had  to  return  and  make  fast  again,  only  a  few  hundred 
yards  from  the  previous  spot.  On  such  occasions  our  cap- 
tain employs  his  wood-cutters  in  felling  trees,  and  splitting 
and  piling  the  wood  until  his  return  downwards,  in  about 
one  month,  perhaps,  from  now.  In  talking  with  our  cap- 
tain he  tells  us  that  the  Black  Bear  is  rarely  seen  swim- 
ming this  river,  and  that  one  or  two  of  them  are  about  all 
he  observes  on  going  up  each  trip,  I  have  seen  them 
swimming  in  great  numbers  on  the  lower  parts  of  the 
Ohio,  and  on  the  Mississippi.     It  is  said  that  at  times, 


THE  MISSOURI  RIVER  JOURNALS 


491 


when  the  common  Wolves  are  extremely  hard  pressed  for 
food,  they  will  eat  certain  roots  which  they  dig  up  for  the 
purpose,  and  the  places  from  which  they  take  this  food 
look  as  if  they  had  been  spaded.  When  they  hunt  a  Buf- 
falo, and  have  killed  it,  they  drag  it  to  some  distance  — 
about  sixty  yards  or  so  —  and  dig  a  hole  large  enough  to 
receive  and  conceal  it;  they  then  cover  it  with  earth,  and 
lie  down  over  it  until  hungry  again,  when  they  uncover, 
and  feed  upon  it.  Along  the  banks  of  the  rivers,  when  the 
Buffaloes  fall,  or  cannot  ascend,  and  then  die,  the  Wolves 
are  seen  in  considerable  numbers  feeding  upon  them. 
Although  cunning  beyond  belief  in  hiding  at  the  report 
of  a  gun,  they  almost  instantly  show  themselves  from  dif- 
ferent parts  around,  and  if  you  wish  to  kill  some,  you  have 
only  to  hide  yourself,  and  you  will  see  them  coming  to  the 
game  you  have  left,  when  you  are  not  distant  more  than 
thirty  or  forty  yards.  It  is  said  that  though  they  very  fre- 
quently hunt  their  game  until  the  latter  take  to  the  river, 
they  seldom,  if  ever,  follow  after  it.  The  wind  that  drove 
us  ashore  augmented  into  a  severe  gale,  and  by  its  present 
appearance  looks  as  if  it  would  last  the  whole  night.  Our 
fire  was  comfortable,  for,  as  you  know,  the  thermometer 
has  been  very  changeable  since  noon.  We  have  had  rain 
also,  though  not  continuous,  but  quite  enough  to  wet  our 
men,  who,  notwithstanding  have  cut  and  piled  about  twelve 
cords  of  wood,  besides  the  large  quantity  we  have  on 
board  for  to-morrow,  when  we  hope  the  weather  will  be 
good  and  calm. 

May  15,  Monday.  The  wind  continued  an  irregular 
gale  the  whole  of  the  night,  and  the  frequent  logs  that 
struck  our  weather  side  kept  me  awake  until  nearly  day- 
break, when  I  slept  about  two  hours;  it  unfortunately 
happened  that  we  were  made  fast  upon  the  weather  shore. 
This  morning  the  gale  kept  up,  and  as  we  had  nothing 
better  to  do,  it  was  proposed  that  we  should  walk  across 
the  bottom  lands,  and  attempt  to  go  to  the  prairies,  distant 


i    ill 


lil!  ,t!  ( 


492 


AUDUBON 


iv  f 


about  two  and  a  half  miles.  This  was  accordingly  done; 
Bell,  Harris,  Mr.  La  Barge'  —  the  first  pilot — a  mulatto 
hunter  named  Michaux,  and  I,  started  at  nine.  We  first 
crossed  through  tangled  brush-wood,  and  high-grown 
rushes  for  a  few  hundreds  of  yards,  and  soon  perceived 
that  here,  as  well  as  all  along  the  Missouri  and  Mississippi, 
the  land  is  highest  nearest  the  shore,  and  falls  off  the 
farther  one  goes  inland.  Thus  we  soon  came  to  mud,  and 
from  mud  to  muddy  water,  as  ptire  as  it  runs  in  the  Mis- 
souri itself;  at  every  step  which  we  took  we  raised  several 
pounds  of  mud  on  our  boots.  Friend  Harris  very  wisely 
returned,  but  the  remainder  of  us  proceeded  through  thick 
and  thin  until  we  came  in  sight  of  the  prairies.  But,  alas! 
between  us  and  them  there  existed  a  regular  line  of  wil- 
lows—  and  who  ever  saw  willows  grow  far  from  water? 
Here  we  were  of  course  stopped,  and  after  attempting  in 
many  places  to  cross  the  water  that  divided  us  from  the 
dry  land,  we  were  forced  back,  and  had  to  return  as  best 
we  could.  We  were  mud  up  to  the  very  middle,  the  per- 
spiration ran  down  us,  and  at  one  time  I  was  nearly  ex- 
hausted ;  which  proves  to  me  pretty  clearly  that  I  am  no 
longer  as  young,  or  as  active,  as  I  was  some  thirty  years 
ago.  When  we  reached  the  boat  I  was  glad  of  it.  We 
washed,  changed  our  clothes,  dined,  and  felt  much  re- 
freshed. During  our  excursion  out.  Bell  saw  a  Virginian 
Rail,  and  our  sense  of  smell  brought  us  to  a  dead  Elk, 
putrid,  and  largely  consumed  by  Wolves,  whose  tracks 
were  very  numerous  about  it.     After  dinner  we  went  to 

1  This  is  Captain  Josepli  La  Barge,  the  oldest  living  pilot  on  the  Mis- 
souri, and  probably  now  the  sole  survivor  of  the  "  Omega  "  voyage  of  1843. 
He  was  born  Oct.  i,  1815,  of  French  parentage,  his  father  having  come  to 
St.  Louis,  Mo.,  from  Canada,  and  his  mother  from  lower  Louisiana.  The 
family  has  been  identified  with  the  navigation  of  the  Western  rivers  from 
the  beginning  of  the  century,  and  in  1850  there  were  seven  licensed  pilots 
of  that  name  in  the  port  of  St.  Louis.  Captain  Joseph  La  Harge  still  lives 
in  St.  Louis,  at  the  age  of  eighty-two,  and  hus  a  vivid  recollection  of  Aud- 
ubon's voyage  of  1843,  some  incidents  of  which  he  has  kindly  communi- 
cated through  Captain  H.  M.  Chittenden,  U.  S.  army. 


4 


THE  MISSOURI  RIVER  JOURNALS 


493 


cordingly  done; 
lilot  —  a  mulatto 

nine.     We  first 
and    high-grown 
i  soon  perceived 
i  and  Mississippi, 
and   falls  off  the 
;ame  to  mud,  and 
runs  in  the  Mis- 
we  raised  several 
rl arris  very  wisely 
ded  through  thick 
•airies.     But,  alas! 
jgular  line  of  wil- 
M  far  from  water? 
ifter  attempting  in 
vided  us  from  the 

to  return  as  best 
ry  middle,  the  per- 
le  I  was  nearly  ex- 
iearly  that  I  am  no 

some  thirty  years 
is  glad  of  it.    We 

and  felt  much  re- 
,ell  saw  a  Virginian 

us  to  a  dead  Elk, 
ves,  whose  tracks 

dinner  we  went  to 

living  pilot  on  the  Mis- 
Omega  "  voyage  of  1843. 
father  having  come  to 
.  lower  Louisiana.  The 
the  Western  rivers  from 
re  seven  licensed  pilots 
seph  La  lUrge  still  lives 
ivid  recollection  of  Aud- 
he  has  kindly  communi- 
my. 


the  heronry  that  Harris  had  seen  yesterday  afternoon ; 
for  we  had  moved  only  one  mile  above  the  place  of  our 
wooding  before  we  were  again  forced  on  shore.  Here  we 
killed  four  fine  individuals,  all  on  the  wing,  and  some 
capital  shots  they  were,  besides  a  Raven.  Unfortunately 
we  had  many  followers,  who  destroyed  our  sport;  there- 
fore we  returned  on  board,  and  at  half-past  four  left 
our  landing-place,  having  cut  and  piled  up  between  forty 
and  fifty  cords  of  wood  for  the  return  of  the  "  Omega." 
The  wind  has  lulled  down  considerably,  we  have  run  seven 
or  eight  miles,  and  are  again  fast  to  the  shore.  It  is  re- 
ported that  the  water  has  risen  two  feet,  but  this  is  some- 
what doubtful.  We  saw  abundance  of  tracks  of  Elk,  Deer, 
Wolf,  and  Bear,  and  had  it  been  anything  like  tolerably 
dry  ground,  we  should  have  had  a  good  deal  of  sport. 
Saw  this  evening  another  dead  Buffalo  floating  down  the 
river. 

May  16,  Tuesday.  At  three  o'clock  this  fair  morning 
we  were  under  way,  but  the  water  has  actually  risen  a 
great  deal,  say  three  feet,  since  Sunday  noon.  The  cur- 
rent therefore  is  very  strong,  and  impedes  our  progress 
greatly.  W^e  found  that  the  Herons  we  had  killed  yester- 
day had  not  yet  laid  the  whole  of  their  eggs,  as  we  found 
one  in  full  order,  ripe,  and  well  colored  and  conditioned. 
I  feel  assured  that  the  Ravens  destroy  a  great  many  of 
their  eggs,  as  I  saw  one  helping  itself  to  two  eggs,  at  two 
different  times,  on  the  same  nest.  We  have  seen  a  great 
number  of  Black-headed  Gulls,  and  some  Black  Terns, 
some  Indians  on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  and  a  Prairie 
Wolf,  dead,  hung  across  a  prong  of  a  tree.  After  a  while 
we  reached  a  spot  where  we  saw  ten  or  more  Indians  who 
had  a  large  log  cabin,  and  a  field  under  fence.  Then  we 
came  to  the  establishment  called  that  of  Vermilion  River,  ^ 
and  met  Mr.  Cerr6,  called  usually  Pascal,  the  agent  of  the 

1  Vermilion  is  still  the  name  of  this  river,  and  also  of  the  town  at  its 
mouth  which  has  replaced  old  Fort  Vermilion,  and  is  now  the  seat  of  Clay 


494 


AUDUBON 


t. 


Company  at  this  post,  a  handsome  French  gentleman,  of 
good  manners.  He  dined  with  us.  After  this  we  landed, 
and  walked  to  the  fort,  if  the  place  may  so  be  called,  for 
we  found  it  only  a  square,  strongly  picketed,  without  port- 
holes. It  stands  on  the  immediate  bank  of  the  river, 
opposite  a  long  and  narrow  island,  and  is  backed  by  a 
vast  prairie,  all  of  which  was  inundated  during  the  spring 
freshet.  He  told  me  that  game  was  abundant,  such  as 
Elk,  Deer,  and  Bear;  but  that  Ducks,  Geese,  and  Swans 
were  extremely  scarce  this  season.  Hares  are  plenty  — 
no  Rabbits.  We  left  as  soon  as  possible,  for  our  captain 
is  a  pushing  man  most  truly.  We  passed  some  remark- 
able blufTs  of  blue  and  light  limestone,  towards  the  top  of 
which  we  saw  an  abundance  of  Clifif-Swallows,  and  counted 
upwards  of  two  hundred  nests.  But,  alas  !  we  have  finally 
met  with  an  accident.  A  plate  of  one  of  our  boilers  was 
found  to  be  burned  out,  and  we  were  obliged  to  stop  on 
the  west  side  of  the  river,  about  ten  miles  below  the  mouth 
of  the  Vermilion  River.  Here  we  were  told  that  we  might 
go  ashore  and  hunt  to  our  hearts'  content ;  and  so  I  have, 
but  shot  at  nothing.  Bell,  Michaux,  and  I,  walked  to  the 
hills  full  three  miles  off,  saw  an  extraordinary  quantity  of 
Deer,  Wolf,  and  Elk  tracks,  as  well  as  some  of  Wild  Cats. 
Bell  started  a  Deer,  and  after  a  while  I  heard  him  shoot. 
Michaux  took  to  the  top  of  the  hills.  Bell  about  midway, 
and  I  followed  near  the  bottom ;  all  in  vain,  however.  I 
started  a  Woodcock,  and  caught  one  of  her  young,  and 
I  am  now  sorry  for  this  evil  deed.  A  dead  Buffalo  cow 
and  calf  passed  us  a  few  moments  ago.  Squires  has  seen 
one  other,  during  our  absence.  We  took  at  Mr.  Cerre's 
establishment  two  engages  and  four  Sioux  Indians.  We 
are  obliged  to  keep  bright  eyes  upon  them,  for  they  are 
singularly  light-fingered.  The  woods  are  filled  with  wild- 
County,  South  Dakota.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  Missouri  is  Dixon  Co., 
Nebraska.  The  stream  was  once  known  as  Whitestone  River,  as  given  In 
"  Lewis  and  Clark."  —  E.  C. 


THE  MISSOURI  RIVER  JOURNALS 


495 


gooseberry  bushes,  and  a  kind  of  small  locust  not  yet  in 
bloom,  and  quite  new  to  me.  The  honey  bee  was  not 
found  in  this  country  twenty  years  ago,  and  now  they  are 
abundant.  A  keel-boat  passed,  going  down,  but  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river.  Bell  and  Michaux  have  re- 
turned. Bell  wounded  a  large  Wolf,  and  also  a  young 
Deer,  but  brought  none  on  board,  though  he  saw  several 
of  the  latter.  Harris  killed  one  of  the  large  new  Finches, 
and  a  Yellow-headed  Troupial.  Bell  intends  going  hunt- 
ing to-morrow  at  daylight,  with  Michaux ;  I  will  try  my 
luck  too,  but  do  not  intend  going  till  after  breakfast, 
for  I  find  that  walking  eight  or  ten  miles  through  the 
tangled  and  thorny  underbrush,  fatigues  me  considerably, 
though  twenty  years  ago  I  should  have  thought  nothing 
of  it. 

May  17,  Wednesday.  This  was  a  most  lovely  morning. 
Bell  went  ofif  with  Michaux  at  four  A.  M.  I  breakfasted  at 
five,  and  started  with  Mr.  La  Barge.  When  we  reached  the 
hunting-grounds,  about  six  miles  distant,  we  saw  Bell 
making  signs  to  us  to  go  to  him,  and  I  knew  from  that 
that  they  had  some  fresh  meat.  When  we  reached  them, 
we  found  a  very  large  Deer  that  Michaux  had  killed. 
Squires  shot  a  Woodcock,  which  I  ate  for  my  dinner,  in 
company  with  the  captain.  Michaux  had  brought  the 
Deer  —  Indian  fashion  —  about  two  miles.  I  was  anxious 
to  examine  some  of  the  intestines,  and  we  all  three  started 
on  the  tracks  of  Michaux,  leaving  Squires  to  keep  the 
Wolves  away  from  the  dead  Deer.  We  went  at  once 
towards  a  small  stream  meandering  at  the  foot  of  the  hills, 
and  as  we  followed  it.  Bell  shot  at  a  Turkey-cock  about 
eighty  yards ;  his  ball  cut  a  streak  of  feathers  from  its 
back,  but  the  gobbler  went  off.  When  we  approached 
the  spot  where  Michaux  had  opened  the  Deer,  we  did  so 
cautiously,  in  the  hope  of  then  shooting  a  Wolf,  but  none 
had  come ;  we  therefore  made  our  observations,  and  took 
up  the  tongue,  which  had  been  forgotten.     Bell  joined  us, 


496 


AUDUBON 


I  ^':i  :■■,'. 


^■p. 


and  as  we  were  returning  to  Squires  we  saw  flocks  of 
the  Chestnut-collared  Lark  or  Ground-finch,  whose  exact 
measurement  I  have  here  given,  and  almost  at  the  same 
time  saw  Harris.  He  and  Bell  went  off  after  the  Finches; 
we  pursued  our  course  to  Squires,  and  waited  for  their 
return.  Seeing  no  men  to  help  carry  the  Deer,  Michaux 
picked  it  up.  Squires  took  his  gun,  etc.,  and  we  made 
for  the  river  again.  We  had  the  good  luck  to  meet 
the  barge  coming,  and  we  reached  our  boat  easily  in  a 
few  minutes,  with  our  game.  I  saw  upwards  of  twelve 
of  Harris'  new  Finch  (?)  a  Marsh  Hawk,  Henslow's  Bunt- 
ing, Emdcrica  pallida,  Robins,  Wood  Thrushes,  Bluebirds, 
Ravens,  the  same  abundance  of  House  Wrens,  and  all  the 
birds  already  enumerated.  We  have  seen  floating  eight 
Buffaloes,  one  Antelope,  and  one  Deer;  how  great  the 
destruction  of  these  animals  must  be  during  high  freshets! 
The  cause  of  their  being  drowned  in  such  extraordinary 
numbers  might  not  astonish  one  acquainted  with  the  habits 
of  these  animals,  but  to  one  who  is  not,  it  may  be  well 
enough  for  me  to  describe  it.  Some  few  hundred  miles 
above  us,  the  river  becomes  confined  between  high  bluffs 
or  cliffs,  many  of  which  are  nearly  perpendicular,  and  there- 
fore extremely  difficult  to  ascend.  When  the  Buffaloes 
have  leaped  or  tumbled  down  from  either  side  of  the 
stream,  they  swim  with  ease  across,  but  on  reaching  these 
walls,  as  it  were,  the  poor  animals  try  in  vain  to  climb 
them,  and  becoming  exhausted  by  falling  back  some 
dozens  of  times,  give  up  the  ghost,  and  float  down  the 
turbid  stream ;  their  bodies  have  been  known  to  pass, 
swollen  and  putrid,  the  city  of  St.  Louis.  The  most  ex- 
traordinary part  of  the  history  of  these  drowned  Buffaloes 
is,  that  the  different  tribes  of  Indians  on  the  shores,  are 
ever  on  the  lookout  for  them,  and  no  matter  how  putrid 
their  flesh  may  be,  provided  the  hump  proves  at  all  fat, 
they  swim  to  them,  drag  them  on  shore,  and  cut  them  to 
pieces ;  after  which  they  cook  and  eat  this  loathsome  and 


THE  MISSOURI  RIVER  JOURNALS 


497 


ve    saw  flocks  of 
nch,  whose  exact 
lost  at  the  same 
ifter  the  Finches; 
waited  for  their 
le  Deer,  Michaux 
:c.,  and  we  made 
)od  luck  to   meet 
r  boat  easily  in  a 
ipwards  of  twelve 
<,  Henslow's  Bunt- 
tirushes,  Bluebirds, 
Wrens,  and  all  the 
seen  floating  eight 
er;    how  great  the 
iring  high  freshets! 
such  extraordinary 
nted  with  the  habits 
not,  it  may  be  well 
few  hundred  miles 
between  high  bluffs 
ndicular,  and  there- 
len   the   Buffaloes 
either   side   of  the 
t  on  reaching  these 
y  in  vain  to  climb 
falling  back  some 
and  float  down  the 
en   known  to  pass, 
uis.     The  most  ex- 
drowned  Buffaloes 
on  the  shores,  are 
matter  how  putrid 
ip  proves  at  all  fat, 
re,  and  cut  them  to 
this  loathsome  and 


abominable  flesh,  even  to  the  marrow  found  in  the  bones. 
In  some  instances  this  has  been  done  when  the  whole  of 
the  hair  had  fallen  off,  from  the  rottenness  of  the  Buffalo. 
Ah !   Mr.  Catlin,  I  am  now  sorry  to  see  and  tc  read  your 
accounts  of  the  Indians  yoii.  saw  ^ — how   very  different 
they  must  have  been  from  any  that  I  have  seen !     Whilst 
we  were  on  the  top  of  the  high  hills  which  we  climbed  this 
morning,  and   looked  towards  the  valley  beneath  us,  in- 
cluding the  river,  we  were  undetermined  as  to  whether  we 
saw  as  much  land  dry  as  land  overflowed ;   the  immense 
flat  prairie  on  the  east  side  of  the  river  looked  not  unlike  a 
lake  of  great  expanse,  and  immediately  beneath  us  the  last 
freshet  had  left  upwards  of  perhaps  two  or  three  hundred 
acres  covered  by  water,  with  numbers  of  water  fowl  on  it, 
but  so  difficult  of  access  as  to  render  our  wishes  to  kill 
Ducks  quite  out  of  the  question.     From  the  tops  of  the 
hills  we  saw  only  a  continual  succession  of  other  lakes,  of 
the  same  form  and  nature;  and  although  the  soil  was  of  a 
fair,  or  even  good,  quality,  the  grass  grew  in  tufts,  separated 
from  each  other,  and  as  it  grows  green  in  one  spot,  it  dies 
and  turns  brown  in  another.      We  saw  here  no  "  carpeted 
prairies,"   no    "  velvety  distant  landscape ;  "   and  if  these 
things  are  to  be  seen,  why,  the  sooner  we  reach  them  the 
better.     This    afternoon    I  took  the  old  nest  of  a  Vireo, 
fully  three  feet  above  my  head,  filled  with  dried  mud ;  it 
was  attached  to  two  small  prongs  issuing  from  a  branch 
fully  the  size  of  my  arm ;  this  proves  how  high  the  water 
must  have  risen.     Again,  we  saw  large  trees  of  which  the 
bark  had  been  torn  off  by  the  rubbing  or  cutting  of  the 
ice,  as  high  as    my  shoulder.     This  is   accounted    for  as 

^  As  Audubon  thus  gently  chides  the  extravagant  statements  of  George 
Catlin,  the  well-known  painter  and  panegyrist  of  the  Indian,  it  may  be  well 
to  state  here  that  his  own  account  of  the  putridity  of  drowned  buffalo 
which  the  Indians  eat  with  relish  is  not  in  the  least  exaggerated.  Mr.  Alex- 
ander Henry,  the  fur-trader  of  the  North  West  Company,  while  at  the  Man- 
dans  in  1806,  noticed  the  same  thing  that  Audubon  narrates,  and  described 
it  in  similar  terms. 
VOL.  I.  — 32 


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498 


AUDUBON 


follows:  during  the  first  breaking  up  of  the  ice,  it  at 
times  accumulates,  so  as  to  form  a  complete  dam  across 
the  river ;  and  when  this  suddenly  gives  way  by  the  heat 
of  the  atmosphere,  and  the  great  pressure  of  the  waters 
above  the  dam,  the  whole  rushes  on  suddenly  and  over- 
flows the  country  around,  hurling  the  ice  against  any  trees 
in  its  course.  Sprague  has  shot  two  Emberisa  pallida, 
two  Lincoln's  Finches,  and  a  Black  and  Yellow  Warbler, 
Sylvicola  \_Dendr(Xca\  maculosa.  One  of  our  trappers, 
who  had  gone  to  the  hills,  brought  on  board  two  Rattle- 
snakes of  a  kind  which  neither  Harris  nor  myself  ha''  seen 
before.  The  four  Indians  we  have  on  board  are  Ihree 
Puncas^  and  one  Sioux;  the  Puncas  were  formerly  at- 
tached to  the  Omahas;  but,  having  had  some  difficulties 
among  themselves,  they  retired  further  up  the  river,  and 
assumed  this  new  name.  The  Omahas  reside  altogether 
on  the  west  side  of  the  Missouri.  Three  of  the  Puncas 
have  walked  off  to  the  establishment  of  Mr.  Cerre  to  pro- 
cure moccasins,  but  will  return  to-night.  They  appear 
to  be  very  poor,  and  with  much  greater  appetites  than 
friend  Catlin  describes  them  to  have.  Our  men  are 
stupid,  and  very  superstitious ;  they  believe  the  rattles  of 

1  "  The  Puncas,  as  they  are  now  universally  called,  or  as  some  travellers 
formerly  called  them,  Poncaras,  or  Poncars,  the  Pons  of  the  French,  were 
originally  a  branch  of  the  Omahas,  and  speak  nearly  the  same  language. 
They  have,  however,  long  been  separated  from  them,  and  dwell  on  both  sides 
of  Running-water  River  (L'Eau  qui  Court)  and  on  Punca  Creek,  which 
Lewis  and  Clark  call  Poncara.  They  are  said  to  have  been  brave  warriors, 
but  have  been  greatly  reduced  by  war  and  the  small-pcx.  Ace  )rding  to  Dr. 
Morse's  report,  they  numbered  in  1822  1,750  in  all ;  at  present  the  total 
number  is  estimated  at  about  300."  ("  Travels  in  North  America,"  Maxi- 
milian, Prince  of  Wied,  p.  137.) 

"  Poncar,  Poncha,  Ponca  or  Ponka,  Punka,  Puncah,  etc.  '  The  remnant 
of  a  nation  once  respectable  in  point  of  numbers.  They  formerly  [before 
1S05]  resided  on  a  branch  of  the  Red  River  of  Lake  Winnipie ;  being 
oppressed  by  the  Sioux,  they  removed  to  the  west  side  of  the  Missouri  on 
Poncar  River  .  .  .  and  now  reside  with  the  Mahas,  whose  language  they 
speak.'       ("  Lewis  and  Clark,"  p.  109,  ed.  1893. 


of  the   ice,  it   at 
plete  dam  across 

way  by  the  heat 
ire  of  the  waters 
ddenly  and  over- 

against  any  trees 
Emberiza  pallida, 
[  Yellow  Warbler, 

of  our  trappers, 
joard  two  Rattle- 
r  myself  ha-^  seen 
1  board  are  Ihree 
vere  formerly  at- 
l  some  difficulties 

up  the  river,  and 

reside  altogether 
ree  of  the  Puncas 

Mr.  Cerre  to  pro- 
tit.  They  appear 
ter  appetites  than 
;.     Our   men    are 

ieve  the  rattles  of 

d,  or  as  some  travellers 
)n3  of  the  French,  were 
irly  the  same  language. 

and  dwell  on  both  sides 
in  Punca  Creek,  which 
IV  e  been  brave  warriors, 

pox.  Ace  >rding  to  Dr. 
all ;  at  present  the  total 

North  America,"  Maxl- 

ah,  etc.    'The  remnant 

They  formerly  [before 

Lake  Winnipie;  being 

side  of  the  Missouri  on 

,  whose  language  they 


T/fE  MISSOURI  RIVER  JOURNALS 


499 


Snakes  are  a  perfect  cure  for  the  headache;  also,  that 
they  never  die  till  after  sunset,  etc.  We  have  dis- 
covered the  female  of  Harris's  Finch,  which,  as  well  as  in 
the  White-crowned  Finch,  resembles  the  male  almost 
entirely ;  it  is  only  a  very  little  paler  in  its  markings.  I 
am  truly  proud  to  name  it  Fringilla  Harrisii,  in  honor 
of  one  of  the  best  friends  I  have  in  this  world. 

May  18,  Thursday.  Our  good  captain  called  us  all  up 
at  a  quarter  before  four  this  fair  morning,  to  tell  us  that 
four  barges  had  arrived  from  Fort  Pierre,  and  that  we 
might  write  a  few  letters,  which  Mr.  Laidlaw,'  one  of  the 
partners,  would  take  to  St.  Louis  for  us.  I  was  intro- 
duced to  that  gentleman  and  also  to  Major  Dripps,^  the 
Indian  agent.  I  wrote  four  short  letters,  which  I  put  in 
an  envelope  addressed  to  the  Messieurs  Chouteau  &  Co. , 
of  St.  Louis,  who  will  post  them,  and  we  have  hopes  that 
some  may  reach  their  destination.  The  names  of  these 
four  boats  are  "War  Eagle,"  "White  Cloud,"  "Crow 
feather,"  and  "Red-fish."  We  went  on  board  one  of 
them,  and  found  it  comfortable  enough.  They  had  ten 
thousand  Buffalo  robes  on  the  four  boats;  the  men  live 
entirely  on  Buffalo  meat  and  pemmican.  They  told  us  that 
about  a  hundred  miles  above  us  the  Buffalo  were  by  thou- 
sands, that  the  prairies  were  covered  with  dead  calves, 
and  the  shores  lined  with  dead  of  all  sorts;  that  Antelopes 
were  there  also,  and  a  great  number  of  Wolves,  etc. ; 
therefore  we  shall  see  them  after  a  while.     Mr.  Laidlaw 

1  Wm.  Laidlaw  was  a  member  of  the  Columbia  Fur  Company  at  the 
time  of  its  absorption  by  the  Western  Department  of  the  American  Fur 
Company,  his  service  with  the  latter  being  mainly  at  Fort  Pierre.  With 
the  exception,  perhaps,  of  Kenneth  McKenzie,  also  of  the  Columbia  Fur 
Company,  Laidlaw  was  the  ablest  of  the  Upper  Missouri  traders. 

*  This  is  Andrew  Dripps,  one  of  the  early  traders,  long  associated  with 
Lucien  Fontenelle,  under  the  firm  name  of  Fontenelle  and  Dripps,  in  the 
Rocky  Mountain  Fur  Trade.  In  later  years  he  was  appointed  Indian 
Agent,  and  was  serving  in  that  capacity  during  the  "  Omega "  voyage  of 
1843.  — E.G. 


M.\  iil, 


50O 


AUDUBON 


told  me  that  he  would  be  back  at  Fort  Pierre  in  two 
months,  and  would  see  us  on  our  return.  He  is  a  true 
Scot,  and  apparently  a  clean  one.  We  gave  them  six 
bottles  of  whiskey,  for  which  they  were  very  thankful; 
they  gave  us  dried  Buffalo  meat,  and  three  pairs  of  moc- 
casins. They  breakfasted  with  us,  preferring  salt  meat 
to  fresh  venison.  They  departed  soon  after  six  o'clock, 
and  proceeded  rapidly  down-stream  in  Indian  file.  These 
boats  are  strong  and  broad ;  the  tops,  or  roofs,  are  sup- 
ported by  bent  branches  of  trees,  and  these  are  covered 
by  water-proof  Buffalo  hides ;  each  has  four  oarsmen  and 
a  steersman,  who  manages  the  boat  standing  on  a  broad 
board;  the  helm  is  about  ten  feet  long,  and  the  rudder 
itself  is  five  or  six  feet  long.  They  row  constantly  for 
sixteen  hours,  and  stop  regularly  at  sundown;  they,  un- 
fortunately for  us,  spent  the  night  about  two  miles  above 
us,  for  had  we  known  of  their  immediate  proximity  we 
should  have  had  the  whole  of  the  night  granted  for  writ- 
ing long,  long  letters.  Our  prospect  of  starting  to-day 
is  somewhat  doubtful,  as  the  hammering  at  the  boilers 
still  reaches  my  ears.  The  day  is  bright  and  calm. 
Mr.  Laidlaw  told  us  that  on  the  5th  of  May  the  snow 
fell  two  feet  on  the  level,  and  destroyed  thousands 
of  Buffalo  calves.  We  felt  the  same  storm  whilst  we 
were  fast  on  the  bar  above  Fort  Leavenworth.  This  has 
been  a  day  of  almost  pure  idleness ;  our  tramps  of  yes- 
t<;rday  and  the  day  previous  had  tired  me,  and  with 
the  exception  of  shooting  at  marks,  and  Sprague  kill- 
ing one  of  Bell's  Vireo,  and  a  Least  Pewee,  as  well  as 
another  female  of  Harris's  Finch,  we  have  done  nothing. 
Bell  this  evening  went  off  to  look  for  Bats,  but  saw 
none.  ■  \  ,■.,  .■-:....■■ 

May  19,  Friday.  This  has  been  a  beautiful,  but  a  very 
dull  day  to  us  all.  We  started  by  moonlight  at  three  this 
morning,  and  although  we  have  been  running  constantly, 
we  took  the  wrong  channel  twice,  and  thereby  lost  much 


m 


THE  MISSOURI  RIVER  JOURNALS 


501 


t   Pierre  in  two 
1.     He  is  a  true 
;  gave  them  six 
e  very  thankful; 
ee  pairs  of  moc- 
'erring  salt  meat 
ifter  six  o'clock, 
dian  file.     These 
»r  roofs,  are  sup- 
hese  are  covered 
four  oarsmen  and 
nding  on  a  broad 
,  and  the  rudder 
3W  constantly  for 
ndown;  they,  un- 
t  two  miles  above 
ate  proximity  we 
granted  for  writ- 
)f  starting  to-day 
ng  at  the  boilers 
jright   and   calm, 
of  May  the  snow 
royed    thousands 
storm  whilst  we 
worth.     This  has 
ir  tramps  of  yes- 
me,  and   with 
nd  Sprague  kill- 
ewee,  as  well  as 
ave  done  nothing, 
"or  Bats,  but  saw 

mtiful,  but  a  very 
ight  at  three  this 

inning  constantly, 
hereby  lost  much 


id 


of  our  precious  time;  so  I  look  upon  this  day's  travel  as 
a  very  poor  one.  The  river  was  in  several  places  inex- 
pressibly wide  and  shallow.  We  saw  a  Deer  of  the  com- 
mon kind  swimming  across  the  stream ;  but  few  birds 
were  killed,  although  we  stopped  (unfortunately)  three 
times  for  wood.  I  forgot  to  say  yesterday  two  things 
which  I  should  have  related,  one  of  which  is  of  a  dismal 
and  very  disagreeable  nature,  being  no  less  than  the  ac- 
count given  us  of  the  clerks  of  the  Company  having  killed 
one  of  the  chiefs  of  the  Blackfeet  tribe  of  Indians,  at  the 
upper  settlement  of  the  Company,  at  the  foot  of  the  great 
falls  of  the  Missouri,  and  therefore  at  the  base  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  and  Mr.  Laidlaw  assured  us  that  it 
would  be  extremely  dangerous  for  us  to  go  that  far  towards 
these  Indians.  The  other  thing  is  that  Mr.  Laidlaw 
brought  down  a  daughter  of  his,  a  half-breed  of  course, 
whom  he  is  taking  to  St.  Louis  to  be  educated.  We  saw 
another  Deer  crossing  the  river,  and  have  shot  only  a  fev 
birds,  of  no  consequence. 

May  20,  Saturday.  We  have  not  made  much  progress 
this  day,  for  the  wind  rose  early,  and  rather  ahead.  We 
have  passed  to-day  Jacques  River,  ^  or,  as  I  should  call  it. 
La  Riviere  k.  Jacques,  named  after  a  man  who  some  twenty 
or  more  years  ago  settled  upon  its  banks,  and  made  some 
money  by  collecting  Beavers,  etc.,  but  who  is  dead  and 
gone.  Three  White  Wolves  were  seen  this  morning,  and 
after  a  while  we  saw  a  fourth,  of  the  brindled  kind,  which 
was  trotting  leisurely  on,  about  150  yards  distant  from 
the  bank,  where  he  had  probably  been  feeding  on  some 
carrion  or  other.     A  shot  from  a  rifle  was  quite  enough 

^  This  is  the  largest  river  which  enters  the  Missouri  thus  far  above  Big 
Sioux  River,  coming  from  the  north  through  South  Dakota.  The  origin 
of  the  name,  as  given  by  Audubon,  is  known  to  few  persons.  Jacques  is 
French  for  "  James,"  and  the  stream  has  of tener  been  known  as  James  River. 
Another  of  its  names  was  Yankton  River,  derived  from  that  of  a  tribe  of 
the  Sioux.  But  it  is  now  usually  called  Dakota  River,  and  will  be  found 
by  this  name  on  most  modern  maps.  —  E.  C. 


502 


AUDUBON 


|t>s 


':.  .  -l 


to  make  him  turn  off  up  the  river  again,  but  farther  from 
us,  at  a  full  gallop;  after  a  time  he  stopped  again,  when 
the  noise  of  our  steam  pipe  started  him,  and  we  soon  lost 
sight  of  him  in  the  bushes.  We  saw  three  Deer  in  the 
flat  of  one  of  the  prairies,  and  just  before  our  dinner  we 
saw,  rather  indistinctly,  a  number  of  Buffaloes,  making 
their  way  across  the  hills  about  two  miles  distant;  after 
which,  however,  we  saw  their  heavy  tracks  in  a  well  and 
deep  cut  line  across  the  said  hills.  Therefore  we  are  now 
in  what  is  pronounced  to  be  the  "Buffalo  country,"  and 
may  expect  to  see  more  of  these  animals  to-morrow.  We 
have  stopped  for  wood  no  less  than  three  times  this  day, 
and  are  fast  for  the  night.  Sprague  killed  a  Pipilo  arcti- 
cus,  and  Bell  three  others  of  the  same  species.  We  pro- 
cured also  another  Bat,  the  Vespertilio  subulatus  of  Say, 
and  this  is  all.  The  country  around  us  has  materially 
changed,  and  we  now  see  more  naked,  and  to  my  eyes 
more  completely  denuded,  hills  about  us,  and  less  of  the 
rich  bottoms  of  alluvial  land,  than  we  passed  below  our 
present  situation.  I  will  not  anticipate  the  future  by  all 
that  we  hear  of  the  country  above,  but  will  continue 
steadily  to  accumulate  in  this,  my  poor  journal,  all  that 
may  take  place  from  day  to  day.  Three  of  our  Indian 
rascals  left  us  at  our  last  wooding-ground,  and  have  gone 
towards  their  miserable  village.  We  have  now  only  one 
Sioux  with  us,  who  will,  the  captain  says,  go  to  Fort 
Pierre  in  our  company.  They  are,  all  that  we  have  had 
as  yet,  a  thieving  and  dirty  set,  covered  with  vermin. 
We  still  see  a  great  number  of  Black-headed  Gulls,  but  I 
think  fewer  Geese  and  Ducks  than  below;  this  probably 
on  account  of  the  very  swampy  prairie  we  have  seen,  and 
which  appears  to  become  scarce  as  we  are  advancing  in 
this  strange  wilderness. 

May  21,  Sunday.  We  have  had  a  great  deal  that  inter- 
ested us  all  this  day.  In  the  first  place  we  have  passed 
no  less  than  five  of  what  are  called  rivers,   and  their 


THE  MISSOURI  RIVER  JOURNALS 


503 


but  farther  from 
)ped  again,  when 
and  we  soon  lost 
»ree  Deer  in  the 
ire  our  dinner  we 
luffaloes,  making 
les  distant ;  after 
;ks  in  a  well  and 
ref ore  we  are  now 
lIo  country,"  and 
,  to-morrow.     We 
e  times  this  day, 
led  a  Pipilo  arcti- 
ipecies.     We  pro- 
subulatus  of  Say, 
us  has  materially 
,  and  to  my  eyes 
s,  and  less  of  the 
passed  below  our 
,  the  future  by  all 
)ut  will  continue 
journal,  all  that 
ee  of  our  Indian 
and  have  gone 
ave  now  only  one 
says,  go  to  Fort 
hat  we  have  had 
red  with  vermin, 
aded  Gulls,  but  I 
)w;  this  probably 
ve  have  seen,  and 
are  advancing  in 

It  deal  that  inter- 
we  have  passed 
rivers,   and  their 


names  are  as  follows :  ^  Manuel,  Basil,  L'Eau  qui  Court, 
Ponca  Creek,  and  Chouteau's  River,  all  of  which  are  indif- 
ferent streams  of  no  magnitude,  except  the  swift-flowing 
L'Eau  qui  Court,^  which  in  some  places  is  fully  as  broad 
as  the  Missouri  itself,  fully  as  muddy,  filled  with  quick- 
sands, and  so  remarkably  shallow  that  in  the  autumn  its 
navigation  is  very  difficult  indeed.  We  have  seen  this 
day  about  fifty  Buffaloes;  two  which  we  saw  had  taken 
to  the  river,  with  intent  to  swim  across  it,  but  on  the  ap- 
proach of  our  thundering,  noisy  vessel,  turned  about  and 
after  struggling  for  a  few  minutes,  did  make  out  to  reach 
the  top  of  the  bank,  after  which  they  travelled  at  a  mod- 
erate gait  for  some  hundreds  of  yards ;  then,  perhaps  smell- 
ing or  seeing  the  steamboat,  they  went  off  at  a  good 
though  not  very  fast  gallop,  on  the  prairie  by  our  side, 
and  were  soon  somewhat  ahead  of  us ;  they  stopped  once 
or  twice,   again  resumed   their  gallop,   and  after  a  few 

1  It  is  not  difficult  to  identify  these  five  streams,  though  only  one  of  them 
is  of  considerable  size.     See  "  Lewis  and  Clark,"  ed.  of  1893,  pp.  106-108. 

1st.  "  Manuel "  River  is  Plum  Creek  of  Lewis  and  Clark,  falling  into  the 
Missouri  at  Springfield,  Bonhomme  Co.,  S.  D.  It  is  Wananri  River  of 
Nicollet  and  of  Warren ;  to  be  found  on  the  General  Land  Office  maps  as 
Emanuel  Creek,  named  for  Manuel  da  Lisa,  a  noted  trader  on  the  Missouri 
in  early  days. 

2d.  "  Basil"  River  is  White  Paint  Creek  of  Lewis  and  Clark,  falling  in 
on  the  Nebraska  side,  a  little  below  the  mouth  of  the  Niobrara,  at  the  93Sth 
mile  point  of  the  Missouri.  The  modern  name  is  variously  spelled  Bazile, 
Basille,  Bozzie,  etc. 

3d.   L'Eau  qui  Court  is  of  course  the  well-known  Niobrara  River. 

4th.  Ponca  River  falls  in  a  mile  or  two  above  the  Niobrara,  on  the  same 
side  of  the  Missouri. 

5th.  Chouteau  Creek  is  present  name  of  the  stream  next  above,  on  the 
other  side  of  the  Missouri,  at  the  950th  mile  point.  —  E.  C. 

*  L'Eau  qui  Court  River  has  been  called  Rapid  River,  Spreading  Water, 
Running  Water,  and  Quicourt.  "This  river  rises  in  the  Black  Hills,  near 
the  sources  of  Tongue  River,  and  discharges  itself  into  the  Missouri  about 
1,000  miles  from  its  mouth.  The  mouth  is  said  to  be  150  paces  broad,  and 
its  current  very  rapid.  There  are  said  to  be  hot  springs  in  this  neighbor- 
hood, such  as  are  known  to  exist  in  several  places  on  the  banks  of  the 
Missouri."  ("  Travels  in  North  America,"  Maximilian,  Prince  of  Wied, 
p.  141.) 


# 


H 


AUDUBON 


diversions  in  their  course,  made  to  the  hill-tops  and  dis- 
appeared altogether.  We  stopped  to  wood  at  a  very  pro- 
pitious place  indeed,  for  it  was  no  less  than  the  fort  put 
up  some  years  ago  by  Monsieur  Le  Clerc.  Finding  no 
one  at  the  spot,  we  went  to  work  cutting  the  pickets  off 
his  fortifications  till  we  were  loaded  with  the  very  best 
of  dry  wood.  After  we  left  that  spot,  were  found  several 
Pipilo  arcticiis  which  were  shot,  as  well  as  a  Say's  Fly- 
catcher. The  wind  rose  pretty  high,  and  after  trying  our 
best  to  stem  the  current  under  very  high  cliffs,  we  were 
landed  on  Poncas  Island,  where  all  of  us  excepting 
Squires,  who  was  asleep,  went  on  shore  to  hunt,  and  to 
shoot  whatever  we  might  find.  It  happened  that  this 
island  was  well  supplied  with  game;  we  saw  many  Deer, 
and  Bell  killed  a  young  Doe,  which  proved  good  as 
fresh  meat.  Some  twelve  or  fourteen  of  these  animals 
were  seen,  and  Bell  saw  three  Elks  which  he  followed 
across  the  island,  also  a  Wolf  in  its  hole,  but  did  not 
kill  it.  Sprague  saw  a  Forked-tailed  Hawk,  too  far  off 
to  shoot  at.  We  passed  several  dead  Buffaloes  near  the 
shore,  on  which  the  Ravens  were  feeding  gloriously.  The 
Pipilo  arcticus  is  now  extremely  abundant,  and  so  is  the 
House  Wren,  Yellow-breasted  Chat,  etc.  We  have  seen 
this  day  Black-headed  Gulls,  Sandpipers,  and  Ducks,  and 
now  I  am  going  to  rest,  for  after  my  long  walk  through 
the  deep  mud  to  reach  the  ridge  on  the  islands,  I  feel 
somewhat  wearied  and  fatigued.  Three  Antelopes  were 
seen  this  evening. 

May  22,  Monday.  We  started  as  early  as  usual,  i.  e., 
at  half -past  three ;  the  weather  was  fine.  We  breakfasted 
before  six,  and  immediately  after  saw  two  Wild  Cats  of 
the  common  kind;  we  saw  them  running  for  some  hun- 
dreds of  yards.  We  also  saw  several  large  Wolves,  notic- 
ing particularly  one  pure  white,  that  stood  and  looked  at 
us  for  some  time.  Their  movements  are  precisely  those 
of  the  common  cur  dog.     We  have  seen  five  or  six  this 


THE  AflSSOURI  RIVER  JOURNALS 


505 


[1-tops  and  clis- 
,d  at  a  very  pro- 
an  the  fort  put 
•c.     Finding  no 
the  pickets  off 
[h  the  very  best 
re  found  several 
as  a  Say's  Fly- 
after  trying  our 
ti  cliffs,  we  were 
-A    us   excepting 
to  hunt,  and  to 
)pened  that   this 
saw  many  Deer, 
proved   good  as 
of  these  animals 
rhich  he  followed 
lole,  but  did  not 
Hawk,  too  far  off 
iuffaloes  near  the 
gloriously.    The 
fant,  and  so  is  the 
We  have  seen 
;,  and  Ducks,  and 
,ng  walk  through 
e  islands,  I  feel 
Antelopes  were 

Irly  as  usual,  /.  e., 
We  breakfasted 
[wo  Wild  Cats  of 
ig  for  some  hun- 
Ige  Wolves,  notic- 
[)od  and  looked  at 
fe  precisely  those 
five  or  six  this 


day.     We  began  seeing  Buffaloes  again  in  small  gangs, 
but  this  afternoon  and  evening  we  have  seen  a  goodly 
number,  probably  more  than  a  hundred.      We  also  saw 
fifteen  or  twenty  Antelopes.     I  saw  ten  at  once,  and  it 
was  beautiful  to  see  them  running  from  the  top  of  a  high 
hill  down  to  its  base,  after  which  they  went  round  the 
same  hill,  and  were  lost  to  us.     We  have  landed  three 
times   to  cut  wood,   and  are  now  busy  at   it   on   Cedar 
Island.*     At  both  the  previous   islands  we  saw  an  im- 
mense number  of  Buffalo  tracks,  more,   indeed,  than  I 
had  anticipated.      The  whole  of  the  prairies  as  well  as 
the  hills  have  been  so  trampled  by  them  that  I  should 
have  considered  it  quite  unsafe  for  a  man  to  travel  on 
horseback.     The  ground  was  literally  covered  with  their 
tracks,  and  also  with  bunches  of  iiair,  while  the  bushes 
and  the   trunks   of   the   trees,  between  which  they  had 
passed,  were  hanging  with  the  latter  substance.     I  col- 
lected some,  and  intend  to  carry  a  good  deal  home.     We 
found  here  an  abundance  of  what  is  called  the  White  Ap- 
ple,2  but  which  is  anything  else  but  an  apple.     The  fruit 
grows  under  the  ground  about  six  inches ;  it  is  about  the 
size  of  a  hen's  egg,  covered  with  a  woody,  hard  pellicle,  a 
sixteenth  of  an  inch  thick,  from  which  the  fruit  can  be 

•  " '  Cedar '  is  the  name  which  has  been  applied  by  various  authors  to 
several  different  islands,  many  miles  apart,  in  this  portion  of  the  river.  .  .  . 
We  reached  an  island  extending  for  two  miles  in  the  middle  of  the  river, 
covered  with  red  cedar,  from  which  it  derives  its  name  of  Cedar  Island." 
("Lewis  and  Clark,"  ed.  of  1893.) 

"Cedar  Island  is  said  to  be  1075  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri. 
On  the  steep  banks  of  this  long,  narrow  island  which  lies  near  the  south- 
west bank,  there  were  thickets  of  poplars,  willows,  and  buffalo-berry;  the 
rest  of  the  island  is  covered  with  a  dark  forest  of  red  cedars,  of  which  we 
immediately  felled  a  goodly  number.  The  notes  of  numerous  birds  were 
heard  in  the  gloom  of  the  cedar  forest,  into  which  no  ray  of  sun  could  pen- 
etrate. Here,  too,  we  found  everywhere  traces  of  the  elks  and  stags,  and 
saw  where  they  had  rubbed  off  the  bark  with  their  antlers."  ("  Travels  in 
North  .America,"  Maximilian,  Prince  of  Wied,  p.  144.) 

*  Translating  the  usual  French  name  (pomme  blanche)  of  the  Psoralea 
iscuienta. 


So6 


AUDUBON 


■A 


•■n 


drawn  without  much  difficulty;  this  is  quite  white;  the 
exterior  is  a  dirty,  dark  brown.      The  roots  are  woody. 
The  flowers  were  not  in  bloom,  but  I  perceived  that  the 
leaves  are  ovate,  and  attached  in  fives.     This  plant  is  col- 
lected in  great  quantities  by  the  Indians  at  this  season 
and  during  the  whole  summer,  and  put  to  dry,  which  ren- 
ders it  as  hard  as  wood;    it  is  then  pounded  fine,  and 
makes  an  excellent  kind  of  mush,  upon  which  the  Indians 
feed  greedily.     I  will  take  some  home.     We  found  pieces 
of  crystallized  gypsum;   we  saw   Meadow   Larks   whose 
songs  and  single  notes  are  quite  different  from  those  of 
the  Eastern  States;  we  have  not  yet  been  able  to  kill  one 
to  decide  if  new  or  not.^     We  have  seen  the  Arkansas  Fly- 
catcher, Sparrow-hawks,  Geese,  etc.     The  country  grows 
poorer  as  wa  ascend;  the  bluffs  exhibit  oxide  of   iron, 
sulphur,  and  also  magnesia.     We  have  made  a  good  day's 
run,  though  the  wind  blew  rather  fresh  from  the  north- 
west.     Harris   shot   a   Ma/:h    Hawk,   Sprague  a  Night- 
hawk,  and  some  small  birds,  and  I  saw  Martins  breeding 
in  Woodpeckers'    holes   in   high  and  large  cotton-trees. 
We  passed  the  "  Grand  Town  "  ^  very  early  this  morning; 
I  did  not  see  it,  however.     Could  we  have  remained  on 
shore  at  several  places  that  we  passed,  we  should  have 
made  havoc  with  the  Buffaloes,  no  doubt;  but  we  shall 
have   enough   of    that   sport   ere   long.      They  all  look 
extremely  poor  and  shabby;  we  see  them  sporting  among 
themselves,  butting  and  tearing  up  the  earth,  and  when 
at  a  gallop  they  throw  up  the  dust  behind  them.     We 

1  This  is  Audubon's  first  mention  of  the  Western  Meadow  Lark,  which 
he  afterward  decided  to  be  a  distinct  species  and  named  Sturnella  ne^^lecta, 
B.  of  Am.  vii.,  1844,  p.  339,  pi.  487.  It  is  interesting  to  find  him  noting  the 
difiere.ice  in  the  song  from  that  of  the  Eastern  species  before  he  had  iiad 
an  opportunity  of  examining  the  bird  itself.  —  E.  C. 

2  "  Grand  Town  "  is  perhaps  the  large  prairie-dog  village  which  once  cov- 
ered several  acres  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Missouri,  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
butte  known  as  the  Dome,  or  Tower,  between  Yankton  and  Fort  RandalL 
—  E.  C. 


saw  their 
landed  ar 
follow  alo 
make  the 
they  also  1 
appear  at 
souri.      T 
islands  an 
common  E 
Antelopes 
had  left  ou 
some  sever 
tiring  to  t\ 
came  nearl 
shore,  and 
did  not  sto 
passed  ther 
tridges,  but 
struck  the 
ing  at  that 
ball  strike 
Michaux,  thi 
of  his  head, 
awakened  ai 
through  the 
loons,  and  d( 
no  one  was  h 
party,  and  hi 
the  country  f 
make  no  com 
the  balls  tha 
that  not  one 
were  to  the  n 
seen  Parrakee 
have  also  des 
|Barn  Swallow 


THE  MISSOURI  RIVER  JOURNALS 


507 


J  quite  white;  the 
;  roots  are  woody, 
perceived  that  the 

This  plant  is  col- 
lans  at  this  season 
;  to  dry,  which  ren- 

pounded  fine,  and 
1  which  the  Indians 
We  found  pieces 
adow  Larks  whose 
erent  from  those  of 
,een  able  to  kill  one 
n  the  Arkansas  Fly- 

The  country  grows 
libit  oxide  of  iron, 
e  made  a  good  day's 
esh  from  the  north- 
:,  Sprague  a  Night- 
iw  Martins  breeding 
large  cotton -trees. 

early  this  morning; 
■e  have  remained  on 

ed,  we  should  have 
[doubt;  but  we  shall 

,g.      They   all  look 

hem  sporting  among 

[the  earth,  and  when 

behind  them.     We 

Istem  Meadow  Lark,  wbicb 
I  named  Sturnella  ntgUctiy 
[ting  to  find  him  noting  the 
\  species  before  he  had  had 

I.  C. 

log  village  which  once  cov- 
}ouri,  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
^ankton  and  Fort  Randall 


saw  their  tracks  all  along  both  shores ;  where  they  have 
landed  and  are  unable  to  get  up  the  steep  cliffs,  they 
follow  along  the  margin  till  they  reach  a  ravine,  and  then 
make  their  way  to  the  hills,  and  again  to  the  valleys; 
they  also  have  roads  to  return  to  the  river  to  drink.  They 
appear  at  this  season  more  on  the  west  side  of  the  Mis- 
souri. The  Elks,  on  the  contrary,  are  found  on  the 
islands  and  low  bottoms,  well  covered  with  timber;  the 
common  Deer  is  found  indifferently  everywhere.  All  the 
Antelopes  we  have  seen  were  on  the  west  side.  After  we 
had  left  our  first  landing-place  a  few  miles,  we  observed 
some  seven  or  eight  Indians  looking  at  us,  and  again  re- 
tiring to  the  woods,  as  if  to  cover  themselves ;  when  we 
came  nearly  opposite  them,  however,  they  all  came  to  the 
shore,  and  made  signs  to  induce  us  to  land.  The  boat 
(lid  not  stop  for  their  pleasure,  and  after  we  had  fairly 
passed  them  they  began  firing  at  us,  not  with  blank  car- 
tridges, but  with  well-directed  rifle-balls,  several  of  which 
struck  the  "Omega"  in  different  places.  I  was  stand- 
ing at  that  moment  by  one  of  the  chimneys,  and  saw  a 
ball  strike  the  water  a  few  feet  beyond  our  bows;  and 
Michaux,  the  hunter,  heard  its  passing  within  a  few  inches 
of  his  head.  A  Scotchman,  who  was  asleep  below,  was 
awakened  and  greatly  frightened  by  hearing  a  ball  pass 
through  the  partition,  cutting  the  lower  part  of  his  panta- 
loons, and  deadening  itself  against  a  trunk.  Fortunately 
no  one  was  hurt.  Those  rascals  were  attached  to  a  war 
party,  and  belong  to  the  Santee  tribes  which  range  across 
[the  country  from  the  Mississippi  to  the  Missouri.  I  will 
make  no  comment  upon  their  conduct,  but  I  have  two  of 
the  balls  that  struck  our  boat;  it  seems  to  be  a  wonder 
that  not  one  person  was  injured,  standing  on  deck  as  we 
were  to  the  number  of  a  hundred  or  more.  We  have  not 
seen  Parrakeets  or  Squirrels  for  several  days;  Partridges 
have  also  deserted  us,  as  well  as  Rabbits;  we  have  seen 
JBarn  Swallows,  but  no  more  Rough-winged.     We  have 


m 


!i ;  I 


: ! 


5o8 


AUDUBON 


yet  plenty  of  Red-headed  Woodpeckers.  Our  captain 
has  just  sent  out  four  hunters  this  evening,  who  are  to 
hunt  early  to-morrow  morning,  and  will  meet  the  boat 
some  distance  above;  Squires  has  gone  with  them.  How 
I  wish  I  were  twenty-five  years  younger!  I  should  like 
such  a  tramp  greatly ;  but  I  do  not  think  it  prudent  now 
for  me  to  sleep  on  the  ground  when  I  can  help  it,  while 
it  is  so  damp. 

May  23,  Tuesday.  The  wind  blew  from  the  south  this 
morning  and  rather  stiffly.  We  rose  early,  and  walked 
about  this  famous  Cedar  Island,  where  we  stopped  to  cut 
large  red  cedars  [Juniperus  virginianus]  for  one  and  a 
half  hours;  we  started  at  half-past  five,  breakfasted  rather 
before  six,  and  were  on  the  lookout  for  our  hunters, 
Hunters  !  Only  two  of  them  had  ever  been  on  a  Buffalo 
hunt  before.  One  was  lost  almost  in  sight  of  the  river. 
They  only  walked  two  or  three  miles,  and  camped.  Poor 
Squires'  first  experience  was  a  very  rough  one;  for,  al- 
though they  made  a  good  fire  at  first,  it  never  was  tended 
afterwards,  and  his  pillow  was  formed  of  a  buck's  horn 
accidentally  picked  up  near  the  place.  Our  Sioux  Indian 
helped  himself  to  another,  and  they  all  felt  chilly  and 
damp.  They  had  forgotten  to  take  any  spirits  with  them, 
and  their  condition  was  miserable.  As  the  orb  of  day 
rose  as  red  as  blood,  the  party  started,  each  taking  a  dif- 
ferent direction.  But  the  wind  was  unfavorable;  it  blew 
up,  not  down  the  river,  and  the  Buffaloes,  Wolves,  Ante- 
lopes, and  indeed  every  animal  possessed  of  the  sense  of  | 
smell,  had  scent  of  them  in  time  to  avoid  them.  There 
happened  however  to  be  attached  to  this  party  two  good 
and  true  men,  that  may  be  called  hunters.  One  was 
Michaux;  the  other  a  friend  of  his,  whose  name  I  do  not 
know.  It  happened,  by  hook  or  by  crook,  that  these  two 
managed  to  kill  four  Buffaloes;  but  one  of  them  was 
drowned,  as  it  took  to  the  river  after  being  shot.  Only 
a  few  pieces  from  a  young  bull,  and  its  tongue,  were 


THE  MISSOURI  RIVER  JOURNALS 


509 


cers.  Our  captain 
vening,  who  are  to 
vill  meet  the  boat 
e  with  them.  How 
3-erl  I  should  like 
[link  it  prudent  now 
I  can  help  it,  while 

from  the  south  this 
e  early,  and  walked 
re  we  stopped  to  cut 
nus\  for  one  and  a 
e,  breakfasted  rather 
ut  for   our  hunters, 
er  been  on  a  Buffalo 
n  sight  of  the  river. 
,  and  camped.     Poor 
rough  one;  for,  al- 
it  never  was  tended 
led  of  a  buck's  horn 
!.     Our  Sioux  Indian 
y  all  felt  chilly  and 
ny  spirits  with  them, 
As  the  orb  of  day 
jd,  each  taking  a  dif- 
unfavorable;  it  blew 
aloes,  Wolves,  Ante- 
essed  of  the  sense  o( 
avoid  them.     There 
this  party  two  good 
hunters.     One  was 
whose  name  I  do  not 
crook,  that  these  two 
ut  one  of  them  was 
:r  being  shot.     Only  I 
.nd  its  tongue,  were 


brought  on  board,  most  of  the  men  being  too  lazy,  or  too 
far  off,  to  cut  out  even  the  tongues  of  the  others;  and 
thus  it  is  that  thousands  multiplied  by  thousands  of  Buf- 
faloes are  murdered  in  senseless  play,  and  their  enormous 
carcasses  are  suffered  to  be  the  prey  of  the  Wolf,  the 
Raven  and  the  Buzzard.  However,  the  hunters  all  re- 
turned safely  to  the  boat,  and  we  took  them  in,  some 
tired  enough,  amr>»><?  whom  was  friend  Squires.  He  had 
worn  out  his  moccasins,  and  his  feet  were  sore,  blistered, 
and  swollen;  he  was  thirsty  enough  too,  for  in  taking  a 
drink  he  had  gone  to  a  beautiful  clear  spring  that  unfor- 
tunately proved  to  be  one  of  magnesia,  which  is  common 
enough  in  this  part  of  our  country,  and  this  much  in- 
creased his  thirst.  He  drank  four  tumblers  of  water  first, 
then  a  glass  of  grog,  ate  somewhat  of  a  breakfast,  and 
went  to  bed,  whence  I  called  him  a  few  minutes  before 
dinner.  However,  he  saw  some  Buffaloes,  and  had  hopes 
of  shooting  one,  also  about  twenty  Antelopes.  Michaux 
saw  two  very  large  White  Wolves.  At  the  place  where 
we  decided  to  take  the  fatigued  party  in,  we  stopped  to 
cut  down  a  few  dead  cedars,  and  Harris  shot  a  common 
Rabbit  and  one  Lark  Finch.  Bell  and  Sprague  saw 
several  Meadow-larks,  which  I  trust  will  prove  new,  as 
these  birds  have  quite  different  notes  and  songs  from 
those  of  our  eastern  birds.  They  brought  a  curious 
cactus,  some  handsome  well-scented  dwarf  peas,  and 
several  other  plants  unknown  to  me.  On  the  island 
I  found  abundance  of  dwarf  wild-cherry  bushes  in  full 
blossom,  and  we  have  placed  all  these  plants  in  press. 
We  had  the  misfortune  to  get  aground  whilst  at  dinner, 
and  are  now  fast  till  to-morrow  morning;  for  all  our 
efforts  to  get  the  boat  off,  and  they  have  been  many,  have 
proved  ineffectual.  It  is  a  bad  spot,  for  we  are  nearly 
halfway  from  either  shore.  I  continued  my  long  letter 
for  home,  and  wrote  the  greatest  portion  of  another  long 
one  to  John  Bachman.     I  intend  to  write  till  a  late  hour 


m 


1-  itii 
1 1\ 


f 


;:||| 


510 


AUDUBON 


i-Xiii?--;  ■ . 

'           i 

■;                    "7 

■ 

this  night,  as  perchance  we  may  reach  Fort  Pierre  early 
next  week. 

May  24}  Wednesday,  We  remained  on  the  said  bar  till 
four  this  afternoon.  The  wind  blew  hard  all  day.  A 
boat  from  Fort  Pierre  containing  two  men  passed  us, 
bound  for  Fort  Vermilion;  one  of  them  was  Mr.  Charity, 
one  of  the  Company's  associate  traders.  The  boat  was 
somewhat  of  a  curiosity,  being  built  in  the  form  of  a 
scow;  but  instead  of  being  made  of  wood,  had  only  a 
frame,  covered  with  Buffalo  skins  with  the  hair  on.  They 
had  been  nine  days  coming  150  miles,  detained  every  day, 
more  or  less,  by  Indians.  Mr.  Charity  gave  me  some 
leather  prepared  for  moccasins  —  for  a  consideration,  of 
course.  We  have  seen  Buffaloes,  etc.,  but  the  most  im- 
portant animal  to  us  was  one  of  Townsend's  Hare.^  We 
shot  four  Meadow-larks  [Sturnella  neglectd]  that  have,  as 
I  said,  other  songs  and  notes  than  ours,  but  could  not 
establish  them  as  new.  We  procured  a  Red-shaf^-'' 
Woodpecker,  two  Sparrow-hawks,  two  Arkansas  Fi; 
catchers,  a  Blue  Grosbeak,  saw  Say's  Flycatcher,  etc, 
I  went  on  shore  with  Harris's  small  double-barrelled 
gun,  and  the  first  shot  I  had  was  pretty  near  killing  me; 
the  cone  blew  off,  and  passed  so  near  my  ear  that  I  was 
stunned,  and  fell  down  as  if  shot,  and  afterwards  I  was 
obliged  to  lie  down  for  several  minutes.  I  returned  on 
board,  glad  indeed  that  the  accident  was  no  greater.  We 
passed  this  afternoon  bluffs  of  sulphur,  almost  pure  to| 
look  at,  and  a  patch  that  has  burnt  for  two  years  in  sue 
cession.  Alum  was  found  strewn  on  the  shores.  A I 
toad  was  brought,  supposed  to  be  new  by  Harris  and 
Bell.     We  landed  for  the  night  on  an   island   so  thick 

*  May  24  is  the  date  given  by  Audubon,  B.  Amer.  viii.,  p.  338,  as  that  on 
which  Mr.  Bell   shot  the  specimen  which  became  type  of   Emberiza  U  \ 
Conteii,  figured  on  plate  488.     This  bird  is  now  AmmoJramus  {Cotuim- 
cuius)  lecontei ;  it  long  remained  an  extreme  rarity.  —  E.  C. 

'  The  common  Prairie  Hare,  Lepus  campestris,  for  which  see  a  previous  j 
note.  — E.G. 


lACsiMlj.K   1 


'^y  ''".-  \     ^    '••-*'-  ^-^  -^-^  "^-^ 
.j!,/^  }    .'*■  '•■*4K   ^"  •*•"-  ^y*'  ^ir^  ■■- 


1  Fort  Pierre  early 

i  on  the  said  bar  till 
V  hard  all  day.     A 
wo  men  passed  us, 
m  was  Mr.  Charity, 
;rs.      The  boat  was 
t  in  the  form  of  a 
f  wood,  had  only  a 
h  the  hair  on.    They 
,  detained  every  day, 
larity  gave  me  some 
r  a  consideration,  of 
c. ,  but  the  most  im- 
vnsend's  Hare.^    We 
teglecta\  that  have,  as 

ours,  but  could  not 
cured   a  Red-shaf^"" 

two   Arkansas    Fi; 
ly's  Flycatcher,   etc. 

all  double-barrelled 
|etty  near  killing  me; 
■ar  my  ear  that  I  was 
[and  afterwards  I  was 

lUtes.     I  returned  on 

was  no  greater.     We 
Iphur,  almost  pure  to 

for  two  years  in  sue 
on   the   shores.    A 
new  by  Harris  and 
an   island  so  thick 

^mer.  vin.,p.  338.a8t'^=''°"| 
jcame  type  of    Emheriza  U 
tow  Ammodramui  {Coturm- 
|lty.-E.  C. 
lij,  for  which  see  a  previous 


un> —  _vX 


UL  yX^t    li^       -«^..J  .iU^  .<- 


-^/^  ^:«'-  t^^  -^^^x^""^ 


'-^V    'r 


^•-*^  ^  A^A**. 


/4..1 


>^I 


lACSIMll.K  OF  A    I'AC.E  OF   TIIK   MISSOURI    RIVKR   JOURNAL. 

KliUL'CKU  ONK  TIIIKl). 


b 


with  u 
through 
it,  and 
The  bo 
shore, 
seen  mc 
The  wh 
loes,  an 
somewh 
a  red 
Buffalo 
flesh  can 
May  i 
promisee 
o'clock; 
until  six 
raining  \ 
present  r 
that  mac 
Michaux 
so  young 
found  in  i 
or  three  i 
on  the  si 
these  bel( 
C.  Boltor 
therefore 
to  follow 
for  we  he 
on  board, 
our  extrac 
On  the  re 
the  island 
of  these  ] 
dead  at  e 
many  dea 


THE  MISSOURI  RIVER  JOURNALS 


511 


with  underbrush  that  it  was  no  easy  matter  to  walk 
through;  perhaps  a  hundred  Buffalo  calves  were  dead  in 
it,  and  the  smell  was  not  pleasant,  as  you  may  imagine. 
The  boat  of  Mr.  Charity  went  off  when  we  reached  the 
shore,  after  having  escaped  from  the  bar.  We  have 
seen  more  White  Wolves  this  day,  and  few  Antelopes. 
The  whole  country  is  trodden  down  by  the  heavy  Buffa- 
loes, and  this  renders  the  walking  both  fatiguing  and 
somewhat  dangerous.  The  garlic  of  this  country  has 
a  red  blossom,  otherwise  it  looks  much  like  ours;  when 
Buffalo  have  fed  for  some  time  on  this  rank  weed,  their 
flesh  cannot  be  eaten. 

May  25,  Thursday.  The  weather  looked  cloudy,  and 
promised  much  rain  when  we  rose  this  morning  at  five 
o'clock;  our  men  kept  busy  cutting  and  bringing  wood 
until  six,  when  the  "  Omega  "  got  under  way.  It  began 
raining  very  soon  afterwards  and  it  has  continued  to  this 
present  moment.  The  dampness  brought  on  a  chilliness 
that  made  us  have  fires  in  each  of  the  great  cabins. 
Michaux  brought  me  two  specimens  of  Neotoma  floridana, 
so  young  that  their  eyes  were  not  open.  The  nest  was 
found  in  the  hollow  of  a  tree  cut  down  for  firewood.  Two 
or  three  miles  above  us,  we  saw  three  Mackinaw  barges 
on  the  shore,  just  such  as  I  have  described  before;  all 
these  belonged  to  the  (so-called)  Opposition  Company  of 
C.  Bolton,  Fox,  Livingstone  &  Co.,  of  New  York,  and 
therefore  we  passed  them  without  stopping ;  but  we  had 
to  follow  their  example  a  few  hundred  yards  above  them, 
for  we  had  to  stop  also ;  and  then  some  of  the  men  came 
on  board,  to  see  and  talk  to  their  old  acquaintances  among 
our  extraordinary  and  motley  crew  of  trappers  and  engages. 
On  the  roofs  of  the  barges  lay  much  Buffalo  meat,  and  on 
the  island  we  left  this  morning  probably  some  hundreds 
of  these  poor  animals,  mostly  young  calves,  were  found 
dead  at  every  few  steps ;  and  since  then  we  have  passed 
many  dead  as  well  as  many  groups  of  living.     In  one 


512 


AUDUBON 


place  we  saw  a  large  gang  swimming  across  the  river; 
they  fortunately  reached  a  bank  through  which  they  cut 
their  way  towards  the  hills,  and  marched  slowly  and 
steadily  on,  paying  no  attention  to  our  boat,  as  this  was 
far  to  the  lee  of  them.  At  another  place  on  the  west 
bank,  we  saw  eight  or  ten,  or  perhaps  more.  Antelopes 
or  Deer  of  some  kind  or  other,  but  could  not  decide 
whether  they  were  the  one  or  the  other.  These  animals 
were  all  lying  down,  which  would  be  contrary  to  the  gen- 
eral habit  of  our  common  Deer,  which  never  lie  down  dur- 
ing rain,  that  I  am  aware  of.  We  have  had  an  extremely 
dull  day  of  it,  as  one  could  hardly  venture  out  of  the 
cabin  for  pleasure.  We  met  with  several  difficulties 
among  sand-bars.  At  three  o'clock  we  passed  the  en- 
trance into  the  stream  known  as  White  River  ;^  half  an 
hour  ago  we  were  obliged  to  land,  and  send  the  yawl  to 
try  for  the  channel,  but  we  are  now  again  on  our  way,  and 
have  still  the  hope  of  reaching  Great  Cedar  Island^  ths 
evening,  where  we  must  stop  to  cut  wood.  — Later.  Our 
attempt  to  reach  the  island  I  fear  will  prove  abortive,  as 
we  are  once  more  at  a  standstill  for  want  of  deeper  water, 
and  the  yawl  has  again  gone  ahead  to  feel  for  a  channel. 
Within  the  last  mile  or  so,  we  must  have  passed  upwards 
of  a  hundred  drowned  young  Buffalo  calves,  and  many 
large  ones.  I  will  await  the  moment  when  we  must 
make  fast  somewhere,  as  it  is  now  past  eight  o'clock. 
The  rain  has  ceased,  and  the  weather  has  the  appearance 
of  a  better  day  to-morrow,  overhead  at  least.     Now  it  is 

1  La  Riviere  Blanche  of  the  French,  also  sometimes  called  WhUe  Earth 
River,  and  Mankizitah  River ;  a  considerable  stream  which  falls  into  the  right 
bank  of  the  Missouri  in  Lyman  Co.,  South  Dakota,  at  the  1056  mile  point 
of  the  Commission  charts.  —  E.  C. 

*  So  called  from  its  size,  in  distinction  from  the  Cedar  Island  already 
mentioned  on  p.  505.     This  is  Second  Cedar  Island  of  Warren's  and  Nicol- 
let's maps,  noticed  by  Lewis  and  Clark,  Sept.  18,  1804,  as  "  nearly  a  mile  ii  I 
length  and  covered  with  red  cedar."    It  was  once  the  site  of  ;in  establish- 
ment called  Fort  Recovery.    The  position  is  near  the  I070th-mile  point  of  | 
the  Missouri.  —  E.  C. 


THE  MISSOURI  RIVER  JOURNALS 


513 


g  across  the  river; 
Ligh  which  they  cut 
larched  slowly  and 
ur  boat,  as  this  was 
■  place  on  the  west 
,ps  more,  Antelopes 
t  could  not  decide 
ler.  These  animals 
contrary  to  the  gen- 
i  never  lie  down  dur- 
ve  had  an  extremely 
venture  out  of  the 
I  several  difficulties 
Ic  we  passed  the  en- 
hite  River  ;i  half  an 
Lnd  send  the  yawl  to 
Lgain  on  our  way,  and 
It  Cedar  Island'' ths 
wood.  —  Later.  Our 
ill  prove  abortive,  as 
want  of  deeper  water, 
to  feel  for  a  channel, 
have  passed  upwards 

o  calves,  and  many 
ment  when  we  must 

past  eight  o'clock. 
IX  has  the  appearance 

at  least.     Now  it  is  ] 

tnetimes  called  WhUe  Earth 
;am  which  falls  into  the  right 
kota,  at  the  1056  mile  point 

m  the  Cedar  Island  already 
and  of  Warren's  and  Nicol- 
5,  1804,  as  "nearly  a  mile  ii 
ce  the  site  of  nn  establish- 
lear  the  i070th-mile  point  oJ 


after  nine  o'clock;  we  are  fastened  to  the  shore,  and  I 
will,  for  the  first  time  since  I  left  St.  Louis,  sleep  in  my 
cabin,  and  between  sheets. 

May  26,  Friday.  The  weather  was  fine,  but  we  moved 
extremely  slowly,  not  having  made  more  than  ten  miles 
by  twelve  o'clock.  The  captain  arranged  all  his  papers 
for  Fort  Pierre.  Three  of  the  best  walkers,  well  ac- 
quainted with  the  road,  were  picked  from  among  our  sin- 
gularly mixed  crew  of  engages,  and  were  put  ashore  at  Big 
Bend  Creek,  on  the  banks  of  a  high  cliff  on  the  western 
side;  they  ascended  through  a  ravine,  and  soon  were  out 
of  sight.  We  had  stopped  previously  to  cut  wood,  where 
our  men  had  to  lug  it  fully  a  quarter  of  a  mile.  We 
ourselves  landed  of  course,  but  found  the  prairie  so  com- 
pletely trodden  by  Buffaloes  that  it  was  next  to  impos- 
sible to  walk.  Notwithstanding  this,  however,  a  few 
birds  were  procured.  The  boat  continued  on  with  much 
difficulty,  being  often  stopped  for  the  want  of  water.  At 
one  place  we  counted  over  a  hundred  dead  Buffalo  calves ; 
we  saw  a  great  number,  however,  that  did  reach  the  top 
of  the  bank,  and  proceeded  to  feeding  at  once.  We  saw 
one  animal,  quite  alone,  wading  and  swimming  alter- 
nately, till  it  had  nearly  crossed  the  river,  when  for  rea- 
sons unknown  to  us,  and  when  only  about  fifty  yards  from 
the  land,  it  suddenly  turned  about,  and  swam  and  waded 
back  to  the  western  side,  whence  it  had  originally  come; 
this  fellow  moved  through  the  water  as  represented  in 
this  very  imperfect  sketch,  which  I  have  placed  here,  and 
with  his  tail  forming  nearly  half  a  circle  by  its  erection 
during  the  time  he  swam.  It  was  mired  on  several  occa- 
sions while  passing  from  one  shoal  or  sand-bar  to  an- 
other. It  walked,  trotted,  or  galloped,  while  on  the  solid 
beach,  and  ultimately,  by  swimming  a  few  hundred  yards, 
returned  to  the  side  from  whence  it  had  started,  though 
fully  half  a  mile  below  the  exact  spot.  There  now  was 
heard  on  board  some  talk  about  the  Great  Bend,  and  the 
VOL.  I. —33 


!iil 


514 


AUDUBON 


captain  asked  me  whether  I  would  like  to  go  off  and 
camp,  and  await  his  arrival  on  the  other  side  to-morrow. 
I  assured  him  that  nothing  would  give  us  more  pleasure, 
and  he  gave  us  three  stout  young  men  to  go  with  us  to 
carry  our  blankets,  provisions,  etc.,  and  to  act  as  guides 
and  hunters.  All  was  ready  by  about  five  of  the  after- 
noon, when  Harris,  Bell,  Sprague,  and  I,  as  well  as  the 
three  men,  were  put  ashore ;  and  off  we  went  at  a  brisk 
walk  across  a  beautiful,  level  prairie,  whereon  in  sundry 
directions  we  could  see  small  groups  of  Buffaloes,  grazing 
at  leisure.  Proceeding  along,  we  saw  a  great  number  of 
Cactus,  some  Bartram  Sandpipers,  and  a  Long-billed  Cur- 
lew. Presently  we  observed  a  village  of  prairie  Marmots, 
Arctomys  \^Cynomys\  litdovicianus,  and  two  or  three  of  our 
party  diverged  at  once  to  pay  them  their  respects.-  The 
mounds  which  I  passed  were  very  low  indeed;  the  holes 
were  opened,  but  I  saw  not  one  of  the  owners.  Harris, 
Bell,  and  Michaux,  I  believe,  shot  at  some  of  them,  but 
killed  none,  and  we  proceeded  on,  being  somewhat  anxious 
to  pitch  our  camp  for  the  night  before  dark.  Presently  we 
reached  the  hills  and  were  surprised  at  their  composition; 
the  surface  looked  as  if  closely  covered  with  small  broken 
particles  of  coal,  whilst  the  soil  was  of  such  greasy  or 
soapy  nature,  that  it  was  both  painful  and  fatiguing  to 
ascend  them.  Our  guides  assured  us  that  such  places 
were  never  in  any  other  condition,  or  as  they  expressed 
it,  were  "never  dry."  Whilst  travelling  about  these  re- 
markable hills,  Sprague  saw  one  of  Townsend's  Hare,  and 
we  started  the  first  and  only  Prairie  Hen  we  have  seen 
since  our  departure  from  St.  Louis.  Gradually  we  rose 
on  to  the  very  uppermost  crest  of  the  hills  we  had  to 
cross,  and  whilst  reposing  ourselves  for  some  minutes  we 
had  the  gratification  of  seeing  around  us  one  of  the  great 
panoramas  this  remarkable  portion  of  our  country  affords. 
There  was  a  vast  extent  of  country  beneath  and  around  us. 
Westward  rose  the  famous  Medicine  Hill,  and  in  the  oppo- 


THE  MISSOURI  RIVER  JOURNALS 


515 


site  direction  were  the  wanderings  of  the  Missouri  for 
many  miles,  and  from  the  distance  we  were  then  from  it, 
the  river  appeared  as  if  a  small,  very  circuitous  streamlet. 
The  Great  Bend  was  all  in  full  view,  and  its  course  almost 
resembled  that  of  a  chemist's  retort,  being  formed  some- 
what like  the  scratch  of  my  pen  thus:  — 
The  walk  from  our  landing 
crossing  the  prairies  was 
quite  four  miles,  whilst  the 
distance  by  water  is  computed 
to  be  twenty-six.  From  the 
pinnacle  we  stood  on,  we 
tjuld  see  the  movements  of 

our  boat  quite  well,  and  whilst  the  men  were  employed  cut- 
ting wood  for  her  engines,  we  could  almost  count  every 
stroke  of  their  axes,  though  fully  two  miles  distant,  as  the 
crow  flies.  As  we  advanced  we  soon  found  ourselves  on 
the  ridges  leading  us  across  the  Bend,  and  plainly  saw  that 
we  were  descending  towards  the  Missouri  once  more. 
Chemin  faisant,  we  saw  four  Black -tailed  Deer,  a  shot  at 
which  Michaux  or  Bell,  who  were  in  advance,  might  per- 
haps have  had,  had  not  Harris  and  Sprague  taken  a  route 
across  the  declivity  before  them,  and  being  observed  by 
these  keen-sighted  animals,  the  whole  made  off  at  once. 
I  had  no  fair  opportunity  of  witnessing  their  movements ; 
but  they  looked  swiftness  itself,  combined  with  grace. 
They  were  not  followed,  and  we  reached  the  river  at  a  spot 
which  evidently  had  been  previously  camped  on  by  Indians ; 
here  we  made  our  minds  up  to  stop  at  once,  and  arrange  for 
the  night,  which  now  promised  to  be  none  of  the  fairest. 
One  man  remained  with  us  to  prepare  the  camp,  whilst 
Michaux  and  the  others  started  in  search  of  game,  as  if 
blood-hounds.  Meantime  we  lighted  a  large  and  glowing 
fire,  and  began  preparing  some  supper.  In  less  than  half 
an  hour  Michaux  was  seen  to  return  with  a  load  on  his  back, 
which  proved  to  be  a  fine  young  buck  of  the  Black-tailed 


5i6 


AUDUBON 


Deer.     This  produced  animation  at  once.     I  examined  it 
carefully,  and  Harris  and  Sprague  returned  promptly  from 
the  point  to  which  they  had  gone.     The  darkness  of  the 
night,  contrasting  with  the  vivid  glare  of  our  fire,  which 
threw  a  bright  light  on  the  skinning  of  the  Deer,  and  was 
reflected  on  the  trunks  and  branches  of  the  cottonwood 
trees,  six  of  them  in  one  clump,  almost  arising  from  the 
same  root,  gave  such  superb  effect   that  I  retired  some 
few  steps  to  enjoy  the  truly  fine  picture.     Some  were 
arranging  their  rough  couches,   whilst  others  were  en- 
gaged in  carrying  wood  to  support  our  fire  through  the 
night ;  some  brought  water  from  the  great,  muddy  stream, 
and  others  were  busily  at  work  sharpening  long  sticks  for 
skewers,  from  which  large  pieces  of  venison  were  soon 
seen  dropping  their  rich  juices  upon  the  brightest  of  em- 
bers.    The  very  sight  of  this  sharpened  our  appetites,  and 
it  must  have  been  laughable  to  see  how  all  of  us  fell  to, 
and  ate  of  this  first-killed  Black-tailed  Deer.     After  a) 
hearty  meal  we  went  to  sleep,  one  and  all,  under  the  pro- 
tection of  God,  and  not  much  afraid  of  Indians,  of  whom 
we  have  not  seen  a  specimen  since  we  had  the  pleasure  of 
being  fired  on  by  the  Santees.     We  slept  very  well  for  a 
while,  till  it  began  to  sprinkle  rain;  but  it  was  only  al 
very  slight  shower,  and  I  did  not  even  attempt  to  shelteil 
myself  from  it.     Our  fires  were  mended  several  times  byl 
one  or  another  of  the  party,  and  the  short  night  passedl 
on,  refreshing  us  all  as  only  men  can  be  refreshed  bjl 
sleep  under  the  sky,   breathing  the  purest  of  air,  audi 
happy  as  only  a  clear  conscience  can  make  one. 

May  27,  Saturday.  At  half-past  three  this  morning  rayl 
ears  were  saluted  by  the  delightful  song  of  the  Red  Thrushj 
who  kept  on  with  his  F*:rains  until  we  were  all  up.  Harrisf 
and  Bell  went  off,  and  as  soon  as  the  two  .hunters  Hal 
cleaned  their  rifles  they  followed.  I  remained  in  camn 
with  Sprague  for  a  while ;  the  best  portions  of  the  DeerJ 
I.  e.,  the  liver,   kidneys,  and   tongue,  were   cooked  fol 


*T 


t  once.  I  examined  it 
eturned  promptly  from 
The  darkness  of  the 
lare  of  our  fire,  which 
J  of  the  Deer,  and  was 
les  of  the  cottonwood 
most  arising  from  the 
t  that  I  retired  some 
picture.  Some  were 
hilst  others  were  en- 
t  our  fire  through  the 

2  great,  muddy  stream, 
rpening  long  sticks  for 
of  venison  were  soon 
in  the  brightest  of  em- 
sned  our  appetites,  and 

3  how  all  of  us  fell  to, 
tailed  Deer.     After  a 
md  all,  under  the  pro- 
d  of  Indians,  of  whom 
we  had  the  pleasure  of 
/e  slept  very  well  foral 
in;  but  it  was  only  al 
ven  attempt  to  shelter  I 
nded  several  times  byl 
;he  short  night  passedl 
I  can  be  refreshed  bjl 
he  purest  of  air,  aii(i| 
can  make  one. 
three  this  morning  myl 
;ong  of  the  Red  Thrush! 
ve  were  all  up.     Harrisj 
5  the  two  hunters  had! 

I  remained  in  camjf 
t  portions  of  the  DeerJ 
igue,  were   cooked  fo| 


i 


breakfast 

our  slutT 

peds,   bi: 

all  new 

ravines  w 

the  red  v 

we  found 

by  the  s 

very  beai 

ing  oppos 

bling  wha 

rump.     B 

of  Buffalo 

yards   of 

The  poor 

ability,  d< 

the  hills  a 

posed  of! 

ris  thinks 

St.  Louis 

geologists. 

[the  Finch 

I  am  by  n( 

I  tions  than 

^  Auduboi 
I  of  1839,  p.  10, 
J  He  had  desc 
I  in  the  Om.  Bi 
1 161,  from  spe 
1834.  But  t\ 
I  afterwards  ca 
I  The  true  /«/ 
IsAaftuckii,  B. 
IShattuck,  of 
las  "abundant 
land  all  menti 
y'^mderimi  /> 
iBunting — not 
ISpopsis  of  I 


THE  MISSOURI  RIVER  JOLTRXALS 


517 


breakfast,  which  all  enjoyed.  No  Wolves  had  disturbed 
our  slumbers,  and  we  now  started  in  search  of  quadru- 
peds, birds,  and  adventures.  We  found  several  plants, 
all  new  to  me,  and  which  are  now  in  press.  All  the 
ravines  which  we  inspected  were  well  covered  by  cedars  of 
the  red  variety,  and  whilst  ascending  several  of  the  hills 
we  found  them  in  many  parts  partially  gliding  down  as  if 
by  the  sudden  effects  of  very  heavy  rain.  We  saw  two 
very  beautiful  Avocets  [^Recurvirostra  amcricand]  feed- 
ing opposite  our  camp ;  we  saw  also  a  Hawk  nearly  resem- 
bling what  is  called  Cooper's  Hawk,  but  having  a  white 
rump.  Bell  joined  the  hunters  and  saw  some  thousands 
of  Buffalo ;  and  finding  a  very  large  bull  within  some  thirty 
yards  of  them,  they  put  in  his  body  three  large  balls. 
The  poor  beast  went  off,  however,  and  is  now,  in  all  prob- 
ability, dead.  Many  fossil  remains  have  been  found  on 
the  hills  about  us,  but  we  saw  none.  These  hills  are  com- 
posed of  limestone  rocks,  covered  with  much  shale.  Har- 
ris thinks  this  is  a  different  formation  from  that  of  either 
St.  Louis  or  Belle  Vue — but,  alas!  we  are  not  much  of 
geologists.  We  shot  only  one  of  Say's  Flycatcher,  and 
the  Finch  we  have  called  Emberiza  pallida^  but  of  which 
I  am  by  no  means  certain,  for  want  of  more  exact  descrip- 
tions than  those  of  a  mere  synopsis.     Our  boat  made  its 

1  Audubon  probably  refers  to  the  brief  description  in  his  own  Synopsis 

I  of  1839,  p.  103,  a  copy  of  which  no  doubt  accompanied  him  up  the  Missouri. 

He  had  described  and  figured  what  he  supposed   to  be  Emberiza  pallida 

in  the  Orn.  Biogr.  v.,  1839,  p.  66,  pi.  398,  fig.  2;  B.  Amer.  iii.,  1841,  p.  71,  pi. 

161,  from  specimens  taken  in  the  Rocky  Mts.  by  J.  K.  Townsend,  June  15, 

1834.    But  this  bird  was  not  the    true  pallida  of    Swainson,  being   that 

afterwards  called  Spitella  brcweri  by  Cassin,  Pr.  Acad.  Philad.,  1856,  p.  40, 

The  true  pallida  of   Swainson  is  what  Audubon  described    as   Emberiza 

\shattuckii,  B.  Amer.  vii.,  1844,  p.  347,  pi.  493,  naming  it  for  Dr.  Geo.  C. 

IShattuck,  of  Boston,  one  of  his  Labrador  companions.      He  speaks  of  it 

las  "abundant   throughout   the   country  bordering  the  upper   Missouri;" 

land  all  mention  in  the  present  Journal  of  the  "  Clay-colored  Bunting,"  or 

Y Emberiza    pallida"  refers    to    what  Audubon   later   named    Shattuck's 

iBuntiiig  —  not  to  what  he  gives  as  Emberiza  pallida  in  the  Om.  Biog.  and 

[Synopsis  of  1839;  for  the  latter  is  Spizella  breweri.  —  E.  C. 


5i8 


AUDUBON 


appearance  at  two  o'clock ;  we  had  observed  from  the 
hill-tops  that  it  had  been  aground  twice.  At  three  our 
camp  was  broken  up,  our  effects  removed,  our  fire  left 
burning,  and  our  boat  having  landed  for  us,  and  for  cutting 
cedar  trees,  we  got  on  board,  highly  pleased  with  our  camp- 
ing out,  especially  as  we  found  all  well  on  board.  We  had 
not  proceeded  very  far  when  the  difficulties  of  navigation 
increascJ  so  much  that  we  grounded  several  times,  and 
presently  saw  a  few  Indians  on  the  shore;  our  yawl  was 
out  sounding  for  a  passage  amid  the  many  sand-bars  in 
view ;  the  Indians  fired,  not  balls,  but  a  salute,  to  call  us 
ashore.  We  neared  shore,  and  talked  to  them ;  for,  they 
proving  to  be  Sioux,  and  our  captain  being  a  good  scholar 
in  that  tongue,  there  was  no  difficulty  in  so  doing.  He 
told  them  to  follow  us,  and  that  he  would  come-to.  They 
ran  to  their  horses  on  the  prairie,  all  of  v/hich  stood  still, 
and  were  good-looking,  comparatively  speaking,  leaped  on 
their  backs  without  saddles  or  stirrups,  and  followed  us 
with  ease  at  a  walk.  They  fired  a  second  salute  as  we 
landed ;  there  were  only  four  of  them,  and  they  are  all  at 
this  moment  on  board.  They  are  fine-looking  fellows; 
the  captain  introduced  Harris  and  me  to  the  chief,  and  we 
shook  hands  all  round.  They  are  a  poor  set  of  beggars 
after  all.  The  captain  gave  them  supper,  sugar  and 
coffee,  and  about  one  pound  of  gunpowder,  and  the  chief 
coolly  said  :  "  What  is  the  use  of  powder,  without  balls?" 
It  is  quite  surprising  that  these  Indians  did  not  see  us 
last  night,  for  I  have  no  doubt  our  fire  could  have  been 
seen  up  and  down  the  river  for  nearly  twenty  miles. 
But  we  are  told  their  lodges  are  ten  miles  inland,  and 
that  may  answer  the  question.  I  shall  not  be  sorry  now 
to  go  to  bed.  Our  camp  of  the  Six  Trees  is  deserted  and 
silent.  The  captain  is  almost  afraid  he  may  be  forced  to 
leave  half  his  cargo  somewhere  near  this,  and  proceed  to 
Fort  Pierre,  now  distant  fifty  miles,  and  return  for  the 
goods.    The  Indians  saw  nothing  of  the  three  men  who 


■J HE  MISSOURI  RIVER  JOURNALS 


519 


id  observed  from  the 
twice.     At  three  our 
removed,  our  fire  left 
for  us,  and  for  cutting 
pleased  with  our  camp- 
ell  on  board.     We  had 
faculties  of  navigation 
led  several   times,  and 
shore ;  our  yawl  was 
he  many  sand-bars  in 
but  a  salute,  to  call  us 
:ed  to  them  ;  for,  they 
n  being  a  good  scholar 
ulty  in  so  doing.    He 
vould  come-to.    They 
1  of  v/hich  stood  still, 
:ly  speaking,  leaped  on 
Tups,  and  followed  us 
a  second  salute  as  we 
m,  and  they  are  all  at 
fine-looking   fellows; 
e  to  the  chief,  and  we 
I  poor  set  of  beggars  I 
supper,   sugar  and 
powder,  and  the  chief 
iwder,  without  balls?" 
[idians  did  not  see  us 
fire  could  have  been 
nearly  twenty   miles.] 
:en   miles  inland,  and 
lall  not  be  sorry  now  j 
Trees  is  deserted  and 
he  may  be  forced  to 
r  this,  and  proceed  to 
and   return  for  the 
f  the  three  men  who 


were  sent  yesterday  to  announce  our   approach   to   Fort 
Pierre. 

Sunday t  May  28.  This  morning  was  beautiful,  though 
cool.  Our  visiting  Indians  left  us  at  twelve  last  night,  and 
I  was  glad  enough  to  be  rid  of  these  beggars  by  trade. 
Both  shores  were  dotted  by  groups  of  Buffaloes  as  far  as 
the  eye  could  reach,  and  although  many  were  near  the 
banks  they  kept  on  feeding  quietly  till  we  nearly  ap- 
proached them ;  those  at  the  distance  of  half  a  mile  never 
ceased  their  avocations.  A  Gray  Wolf  was  seen  swimming 
across  our  bows,  and  some  dozens  of  shots  were  sent  at 
the  beast,  which  made  it  open  its  mouth  and  raise  its  head, 
but  it  never  stopped  swimming  away  from  us,  as  fast  as 
possible ;  after  a  while  it  reached  a  sand-bar,  and  immedi- 
ately afterwards  first  trotted,  and  then  galloped  off.  Three 
Buffaloes  also  crossed  ahead  of  us,  but  at  some  distance; 
they  all  reached  the  shore,  and  scrambled  up  the  bank. 
We  have  run  better  this  morning  than  for  three  or  four 
days,  and  if  fortunate  enough  may  reach  Fort  Pierre  some- 
time to-morrow.  The  prairies  appear  better  now,  the 
grass  looks  green,  and  probably  the  poor  Buffaloes  will 
soon  regain  their  flesh.  We  have  seen  more  than  2,000 
this  morning  up  to  this  moment  —  twelve  o'clock. 

We  reached  Fort  George^  at  about  three  this  afternoon. 
This  is  what  is  called  the  "  Station  of  the  Opposition 
line;"  some  Indians  and  a  few  lodges  are  on  the  edge  of 
the  prairie.  Sundry  bales  of  Buffalo  robes  were  brought 
on  board,  and  Major  Hamilton,  who  is  now  acting  Indian 
agent  here  until  the  return  of  Major  Crisp,  came  on  board 
also.  I  knew  his  father  thirty-five  years  ago.  He  pointed 
out  to  us  the  cabin  on  the  opposite  shore,^  where  a  part- 

'  Situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Missouri,  in  Presho  Co.,  South  Dakota. 
See  "  Lewis  and  Clark,"  ed.  of  1893,  p.  127.  —  E.  C. 

"^  This  "  cabin  on  the  opposite  shore  "  was  somewhere  in  the  vicinity  of 
Rousseau,  at  or  near  the  mouth  of  present  Little  Medicine  Creek  (formerly 
East  Medicine  KnoH  River,  originally  named  Reuben's  Creek  by  Lewis  and 
Clark,  after  Reuben  Fields,  one  of  their  men).  —  E.  C. 


520 


AUDUBON 


I 


ner  of  the  "  Opposition  line"  shot  at  and  killed  two  white 
men  and  wounded  two  others,  all  of  whom  were  remark- 
able miscreants.  We  are  about  thirty  miles  below  Fort 
Pierre.  Indians  were  seen  on  both  sides  the  river,  ready 
to  trade  both  here  and  at  Fort  Pierre,  where  I  am  told 
there  are  five  hundred  lodges  standing.  The  Indian  dogs 
which  I  saw  here  so  very  closely  resemble  wild  Wolves, 
that  I  feel  assured  that  if  I  was  to  meet  with  one  of  them 
in  the  woods,  I  should  most  assuredly  kill  it  as  such.  A 
few  minutes  after  leaving  Fort  George,  we  stopped  to 
sound  the  channel,  and  could  not  discover  more  than 
three  and  a  half  feet  of  water;  our  captain  told  us  we 
would  proceed  no  farther  this  day,  but  would  camp  here. 
Bell,  Harris,  and  Sprague  went  off  with  guns;  Squires 
and  I  walked  to  Fort  George,  and  soon  met  a  young  Eng- 
lishman going  towards  our  boat  on  a  "  Buffalo  Horse  "  at 
a  swift  gallop ;  but  on  being  hailed  he  reined  up.  His 
name  was  Illingsworth;  he  is  the  present  manager  of  this 
establishment.  He  welcomed  us,  and  as  he  was  going  to 
see  Captain  Sire,  we  proceeded  on.  Upon  reaching  the 
camp  we  found  a  strongly  built  log  cabin,  in  one  end  of 
which  we  met  Mr.  Cutting,  who  told  me  he  had  known 
Victor  [Audubon]  in  Cuba.  This  young  gentleman  had 
been  thrown  from  his  horse  in  a  recent  Buffalo  chase,  and 
had  injured  one  foot  so  that  he  could  not  walk.  A  Buf- 
falo cow  had  hooked  the  horse  and  thrown  the  rider  about 
twenty  feet,  although  the  animal  had  not  been  wounded. 
We  also  met  here  a  Mr.  Taylor,  who  showed  me  the  pet- 
rified head  of  a  Beaver,  which  he  supposed  to  be  that  of 
a  Wolf;  but  I  showed  him  the  difference  in  the  form  at 
once.  I  saw  two  young  Wolves  about  six  weeks  old,  of 
the  common  kind,  alive.  They  looked  well,  but  their 
nature  was  already  pretty  apparently  that  of  the  parents. 
I  saw  an  abundance  of  semi-wolf  Dogs,  and  their  bowl- 
ings were  distressing  to  my  ear.  We  entered  the  lodge 
of  a  trader  attached  to  our  company,  a  German,  who  is  a 


rin I  II1T-I 


THE  MISSOURI  RIVER  JOURNALS 


521 


id  killed  two  white 
horn  were  remark- 
1  miles  below  Fort 
des  the  river,  ready 
s,  where  I  am  told 
.     The  Indian  dogs 
jmble  wild  Wolves, 
et  with  one  of  them 
kill  it  as  such.     A 
rge,  we  stopped  to 
discover  more  than 
captain  told  us  we 
It  would  camp  here, 
with  guns;   Squires 
ti  met  a  young  Eng- 
'•  Buffalo  Horse  "  at 
\e  reined  up.       His 
ient  manager  of  this 
1  as  he  was  going  to 
Upon  reaching  the 
:abin,  in  one  end  of 

me  he  had  known 
lUng  gentleman  had 
t  Buffalo  chase,  and 

not  walk.     A  Buf- 
own  the  rider  about 

not  been  wounded. 

ihowed  me  the  pet- 
iposed  to  be  that  of 

ince  in  the  form  at 
It  six  weeks  old,  of 

ed  well,  but  their 

hat  of  the  parents. 

s,  and  their  howl- 
entered  the  lodge 

la  German,  who  is  a 


clever  man,  has  considerable  knowledge  of  botany,  and 
draws  well.  There  were  about  fifteen  lodges,  and  we  saw 
a  greater  number  of  scjuaws  and  half-breed  children  than 
I  had  expected.  But  as  every  clerk  and  agent  belonging 
to  the  companies  has  "a  wife,"  as  it  is  called,  a  spurious 
population  soon  exhibits  itself  around  the  wigwams.  I 
will  not  comment  upon  this  here.  We  returned  before 
dark  to  our  boat,  and  I  am  off  to  bed. 

Monday^  May  29.  I  was  up  early,  and  as  soon  as 
breakfast  was  over.  Major  Hamilton  and  myself  walked  to 
Fort  George.  We  found  the  three  gentlemen  to  whom  I 
showed  the  plate  of  quadrupeds,  and  atterwards  I  went  to 
their  store  to  see  skins  of  Wolves  and  of  the  Swift  Fox. 
I  found  a  tolerably  good  Fox  skin  which  was  at  once 
given  me;  I  saw  what  I  was  assured  were  two  distinct 
varieties  (for  I  cannot  call  them  species)  of  Wolves. 
Both,  however,  considering  the  difference  in  size,  were 
old  and  young  of  the  same  variety.  They  both  had  the 
top  of  the  back  dark  gray,  and  the  sides,  belly,  legs, 
and  tail,  nearly  white.  When  I  have  these  two  sorts 
in  the  flesh,  I  may  derive  further  knowledge.  I  looked 
at  the  Indian  Dogs  again  with  much  attention,  and  was 
assured  that  there  is  much  cross  breeding  between  these 
Dogs  and  Wolves,  and  that  all  the  varieties  actually  come 
from  the  same  root. 

Harris  now  joined  us,  and  found  he  had  met  a  brother 
of  Mr.  Cutting  in  Europe.  The  gentlemen  from  the  fort 
came  back  to  the  boat  with  us ;  we  gave  them  a  luncheon, 
and  later  a  good  substantial  dinner,  the  like  of  which,  so 
they  told  us,  they  had  not  eaten  for  many  a  day.  Mr. 
Illingsworth  told  us  much  about  Buffaloes ;  he  says  the 
hunting  is  usually  more  or  less  dangerous.  The  Porcu- 
pine is  found  hereabouts  and  feeds  on  the  leaves  and  bark 
as  elsewhere,  but  not  unfrequently  retires  into  the  crev- 
ices of  rocks,  whenever  no  trees  of  large  size  are  to  be 
found    in    its   vicinity.      Elks,    at    times,    assemble    in 


i 


522 


AUDUBON 


groups  of  from  fifty  to  two  hundred,  and  their  movements 
are  as  regular  as  those  of  a  flock  of  White  Pelicans,  so 
that  if  the  oldest  Elk  starts  in  any  one  direction,  all  the 
rest  follow  at  once  in  his  tracks.  Where  he  stops,  they 
all  stop,  and  at  times  all  will  suddenly  pause,  range 
themselves  as  if  a  company  of  dragoons,  ready  to  charge 
upon  the  enemy ;  which,  however,  they  seldom  if  ever  at- 
tempt. After  dinner  Mr.  Illingsworth  told  me  he  would 
go  and  shoot  a  Buffalo  calf  for  me  —  we  will  see.  Bell, 
Harris,  Squires,  and  myself  went  off  to  shoot  some  Prairie- 
dogs,  as  the  Arctomys  ludovicianus  is  called.  After 
walking  over  the  hills  for  about  one  mile,  we  came  to 
the  "village,"  and  soon  after  heard  their  cries  but  not 
their  barkings.  The  sound  they  make  is  simply  a  "  chip, 
chip,  chip,"  long  and  shrill  enough,  and  at  every  cry  the 
animal  jerks  its  tail,  without  however  erecting  it  upright, 
as  I  have  seen  them  represented.  Their  holes  are  not 
perpendicular,  but  oblique,  at  an  angle  of  about  forty 
degrees,  after  which  they  seem  to  deviate;  but  whether 
sideways  or  upwards,  I  cannot  yet  say.  I  shot  at  two  of 
them,  which  appeared  to  me  to  be  standing,  not  across 
their  holes,  but  in  front  of  them.  The  first  one  I  never 
saw  after  the  shot;  the  second  I  found  dying  at  the  en- 
trance of  the  burrow,  but  at  my  appearance  it  worked 
backwards.  I  drew  my  ramrod  and  put  the  end  in  its 
mouth;  this  it  bit  hard  but  kept  working  backwards,  and 
notwithstanding  my  efforts,  was  soon  out  of  sight  and 
touch.  Bell  saw  two  enter  the  same  hole,  and  Harris 
three.  Bell  saw  some  standing  quite  erect  and  leaping 
in  the  air  to  see  and  watch  our  movements.  I  found, 
by  lying  down  within  twenty  or  thirty  steps  of  the  hole, 
that  they  reappeared  in  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes.  This 
was  the  case  with  me  when  I  shot  at  the  two  I  have  men- 
tioned. Harris  saw  one  that,  after  coming  out  of  its  hole, 
gave  a  long  and  somewhat  whistling  note,  which  he  thinks 
was  one  of  invitation  to  its  neighbors,  as  several  came  out 


rT"''"Ti"i'i'r*^^'' 


THE  MISSOURI  RIVER  JOC/RN^!LS 


523 


in  a  few  moments.  I  have  great  doubtis  whether  their 
cries  are  issued  at  the  appearance  of  danger  or  not.  I  am 
of  opinion  that  they  are  a  mode  of  recognition  as  well 
as  of  amusement.  I  also  think  they  feed  more  at  night 
than  in  the  day.  On  my  return  to  the  boat,  I  rounded 
a  small  hill  and  started  a  Prairie  Wolf  within  a  few 
steps  of  me.  I  was  unfortunately  loaded  with  No.  3  shot. 
I  pulled  one  trigger  and  then  the  other,  but  the  rascal 
went  off  as  if  unhurt  for  nearly  a  hundred  yards,  when  he 
stopped,  shook  himself  rather  violently,  and  I  saw  I  had 
hit  him ;  but  he  ran  off  again  at  a  very  swift  rate,  his  tail 
down,  stopped  again,  and  again  shook  himself  as  before, 
after  which  he  ran  out  of  my  sight  between  the  hills. 
Buffalo  cows  at  this  season  associate  together,  with  their 
calves,  but  if  pursued,  leave  the  latter  to  sa  >  themselves. 
The  hides  at  present  are  not  worth  saving,  and  the  In- 
dians as  well  as  the  white  hunters,  when  they  shoot  a  Buf- 
falo, tear  off  the  hide,  cut  out  the  better  portions  of  the 
flesh,  as  well  as  the  tongue,  and  leave  the  carcass  to  the 
Wolves  and  Ravens.  By  the  way,  Bell  saw  a  Magpie 
this  day,  and  Harris  killed  two  Black-headed  Grosbeaks. 
Bell  also  saw  several  Evening  Grosbeaks  to-day;  therefore 
there's  not  much  need  of  crossing  the  Rocky  Mountains 
for  the  few  precious  birds  that  the  talented  and  truth- 
speaking   Mr.  brought   or  sent   to  the  well-paying 

Academy  of  Natural  Sciences  of  Philadelphia !  The  two 
men  sent  to  Fort  Pierre  a  few  days  ago  have  returned, 
one  this  evening,  in  a  canoe,  the  other  this  afternoon,  by 
land. 

May  30,  Tuesday.  We  had  a  fine  morning,  and  indeed 
a  very  fair  day.  I  was  called  up  long  before  five  to  re- 
ceive a  Buffalo  calf,  and  the  head  of  another,  which  Mr. 
Illingsworth  had  the  goodness  to  send  me.  Sprague  has 
been  busy  ever  since  breakfast  drawing  one  of  the  hea 
the  size  of  nature.  The  other  entire  calf  has  been 
skinned,  and  will  be  in  strong  pickle  before  I  go  to  bed. 


524 


AUDUBON 


Mr.  Illingsworth  killed  two  calves,  one  bull,  and  one  cow. 
The  calves,  though  not  more  than  about  two  months  old, 
as  soon  as  the  mother  was  wounded,  rushed  towards  the 
horse  or  the  man  who  had  struck  her.  The  one  bull 
skinned  was  so  nearly  putrid,  though  so  freshly  killed, 
that  its  carcass  was  thrown  overboard.  This  gentleman, 
as  well  as  many  others,  assured  us  that  the  hunting  of 
Buffaloes,  for  persons  unaccustomed  to  it,  was  very  risky 
indeed;  and  said  no  one  should  attempt  it  unless  well 
initiated,  even  though  he  may  be  a  first-rate  rider.  When 
calves  are  caught  alive,  by  placing  your  hands  over  the 
eyes  and  blowing  into  the  nostrils,  in  the  course  of  a  few 
minutes  they  will  follow  the  man  who  performs  this 
simple  operation.  Indeed  if  a  cow  perchance  leaves  her 
calf  behind  during  a  time  of  danger,  or  in  the  chase,  the 
calf  will  often  await  the  approach  of  man  and  follow  him 
as  soon  as  the  operation  mentioned  is  over.  Mr.  Illings- 
worth paid  us  a  short  visit,  and  told  us  that  Mr.  Cutting 
was  writing  to  his  post  near  Fort  Union  to  expect  us,  and 
to  afford  us  all  possible  assistance.  We  made  a  start  at 
seven,  and  after  laboring  over  the  infernal  sand-bars  until 
nearly  four  this  afternoon,  we  passed  them,  actually  cut- 
ting our  own  channel  with  the  assistance  of  the  wheel. 
Whilst  we  were  at  this,  we  were  suddenly  boarded  by  the 
yawl  of  the  "Trapper,"  containing  Mr.  Picotte,  Mr.  Char- 
don,  and  several  others.  They  had  left  Fort  Pierre  this 
morning,  and  had  come  down  in  one  hour  and  a  half.  We 
were  all  duly  presented  to  the  whole  group,  and  I  gave  to 
each  of  these  gentlemen  the  letters  I  had  for  them.  I 
found  them  very  kind  and  affable.  They  dined  after  us, 
being  somewhat  late,  but  ate  heartily  and  drank  the  same. 
They  brought  a  first-rate  hunter  with  them,  of  whom  I 
expect  to  have  much  to  say  hereafter.  Mr.  Picotte  prom- 
ised me  the  largest  pair  of  Elk  horns  ever  seen  in  this 
country,  as  well  as  several  other  curiosities,  all  of  which 
I  will  write  about  when  I  have  them.     We  have  reached 


k't'l 


THE  MISSOURI  RIVER  JOURNALS 


525 


Antelope  River, ^  a  very  small  creek  on  the  west  side. 
We  saw  two  Wolves  crossing  the  river,  and  Harris  shot 
a  Lark  Finch.  We  have  now  no  difficulties  before  us, 
and  hope  to  reach  Fort  Pierre  very  early  to  morrow 
morning. 

Fort  Pierre}  May  31,  Wednesday.  A.fter  many  difficul- 
ties we  reached  this  place  at  four  o'clock  this  afternoon, 
having  spent  the  whole  previous  part  of  the  day,  say  since 
half-past  three  this  morning,  in  coming  against  the  innu- 
merable bars  —  only  nine  miles  !  I  forgot  to  say  last 
evening,  that  where  we  landed  for  the  night  our  captain 
caught  a  fine  specimen  of  Neoi'^ma  floridana,  a  female. 
We  were  forced  to  come-to  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
above  Fort  Pierre,  after  having  passed  the  steamer  "  Trap- 
per "  of  our  Company.  Bell,  Squires,  and  myself  walked 
to  the  Fort  as  soon  as  possible,  and  found  Mr.  Picotte  and 
Mr.  Chardon  there.  More  kindness  from  strangers  I  have 
seldom  received,  I  was  presented  with  the  largest  pair 
of  Elk  horns  I  ever  saw,  and  also  a  skin  of  the  animal 
itself,  most  beautifully  prepared,  which  I  hope  to  give  to 

1  Or  Antelope  Creek,  then  as  now  the  name  of  the  small  stream  which 
falls  into  the  Missouri  on  the  right  bank,  about  lo  miles  below  the  mouth  of 
the  Teton.  It  has  also  been  known  as  Cabri  Creek,  Katota  Tokah,  and  High- 
water  Creek,  the  latter  being  the  designation  originally  bestowed  by  Lewis 
and  Clark,  Sept.  24,  1804.     It  runs  in  Presho  Co.,  S.  Dak.  —  E,  C. 

2  The  old  fort  of  this  name  was  three  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Teton 
River ;  this  was  abandoned,  and  another  fort  built,  higher  up,  on  the  west 
bank  of  the  Missouri.  The  Prince  of  Wied  reached  this  fort  on  the  fifty- 
first  day  of  his  voyage  up  the  Missouri,  and  Audubon  on  the  thirty-third 
of  his ;  a  gain  in  time  which  may  possibly  be  attributed  both  to  better 
weather  and  to  the  improvement  in  steamboats  during  ten  years.  The 
Prince  says :  "  Fort  Pierre  is  one  of  the  most  considerable  settlements  of  the 
Fur  Company  on  the  Missouri,  and  forms  a  large  quadrangle  surrounded  by 
pickets.  Seven  thousand  buffalo  skins  and  other  furs  were  put  on  board  our 
boat  to  take  to  TSt.  Louis.  .  .  .  The  leather  tents  of  the  Sioux  Indians,  the 
most  distinguished  being  that  of  the  old  interpreter,  Dorion  (or  Durion),  a 
half  Sioux,  who  is  mentioned  by  many  travellers,  and  resides  here  with  his 
Indian  family.  His  tent  was  large,  and  painted  red ;  at  the  top  of  the 
poles  composing  the  frame,  several  scalps  hung."  ("Travels  in  North 
America,"  p.  156,  Maximilian,  Prince  of  Wied.) 


526 


AUDUBON 


my  beloved  wife.  I  was  also  presented  with  two  pairs  of 
moccasins,  an  Indian  riding-whip,  one  collar  of  Grizzly 
Bear's  claws,  and  two  long  strings  of  dried  white  apples, 
as  well  as  two  Indian  chesses.  I  bought  the  skin  of  a 
fine  young  Grizzly  Bear,  *wo  Wolf  skins,  and  a  parcel 
of  fossil  remains.  I  saw  t  velve  young  Buffalo  calves, 
caught  a  few  weeks  ago,  and  yet  as  wild,  apparently,  as 
ever.  Sprague  will  take  outlines  of  them  to-morrow 
morning,  and  I  shall  draw  them.  We  have  put  ashore 
about  one-half  of  our  cargo  and  left  fifty  of  our  engages, 
so  that  we  shall  be  able  to  go  much  faster,  in  less  water 
than  we  have  hitherto  drawn.  We  are  all  engaged  in  fin- 
ishing our  correspondence,  the  whole  of  the  letters  being 
about  to  be  forwarded  to  St.  Louis  by  the  steamer  "  Trap- 
per. "  I  have  a  letter  of  seven  pages  to  W.  G.  Bakewell, 
James  Hall,  J.  W.  H.  Page,  and  Thomas  M.  Brewer,^  of 
Boston,  besides  those  to  my  family.  We  are  about  one 
and  a  half  miles  above  the  Teton  River,  or,  as  it  is  now 
called,  the  Little  Missouri,''  a  swift  and  tortuous  stream 
that  finds  its  source  about  250  miles  from  its  union  with 
this  great  river,  in  what  are  called  the  Bad  Lands  of  Teton 
River,  where  it  seems,  from  what  we  hear,  that  the  coun- 
try has  been  at  one  period  greatly  convulsed,  and  is  filled 


*  W.  G.  Bakewell  was  Audubon's  brother-in-law ;  James  Hall,  brother  of 
Mrs.  John  W.  Audubon ;  J.  W.  H.  Page,  of  New  Bedford.  Thomas  M.ayo 
Brewer,  who  became  a  noted  ornithologist,  edited  the  i2nio  edition  of 
Wilson,  wrote  Part  I.  of  the  "  Oology  of  North  America,"  which  was  pub- 
lished by  the  Smithsonian  Institution  in  1857,  and  was  one  of  the  authors  of 
Baird,  Brewer,  and  Ridgway's  "  History  of  North  American  Birds."  He 
died  in  Boston  Jan.  23,  i88o,  having  been  born  there  Nov,  21,  1814.  He  is 
notorious  for  his  mistaken  zeal  in  introducing  the  English  Sparrow  in  this 
country.  —  E.  C. 

2  The  Teton,  or  Bad  River,  has  long  ceased  to  be  known  as  the  Little 
Missouri,  —  a  name  now  applied  to  another  branch  of  the  Missouri,  which 
falls  in  from  the  south  much  higher  up,  about  23  miles  above  present  Fort 
Berthold.  Teton  River  was  so  named  by  Lewis  and  Clark,  Sept.  24,  1804, 
from  the  tribe  of  Sioux  found  at  its  mouth :  see  the  History  of  the  Expedi- 
tion, ed.  of  1893,  p.  131,  and  compare  p.  267.  The  Indian  name  was  Chicha, 
Schicha,  or  Shisha.  —  E.G.  '  . 


THE  MISSOURI  RIVER  JOURNALS 


527 


er,  or,  as  it  is  now 


with  fossil  remains.  I  saw  the  young  Elk  belonging  to 
our  captain,  looking  exceedingly  shabby,  but  with  the 
most  beautiful  eyes  I  ever  beheld  in  any  animal  of  the 
Deer  kind.  We  have  shot  nothing  to-day.  I  have  heard 
all  the  notes  of  the  Meadow  Lark  found  here  and  they  are 
utterly  different  from  those  of  our  common  species.  And 
now  that  I  am  pretty  well  fatigued  with  writing  letters 
and  this  journal,  I  will  go  to  rest,  though  I  have  matter 
enough  in  my  poor  head  to  write  a  book.  We  expect  to 
proceed  onwards  some  time  to-morrow. 

June  1,  Thursday.  I  was  up  at  half-past  three,  and  by 
four  Sprague  and  I  walked  to  the  Fort,  for  the  purpose  of 
taking  sketches  of  young  Buffalo  calves.  These  young 
beasts  grunt  precisely  like  a  hog,  and  I  would  defy  any 
person  not  seeing  the  animals  to  tell  one  sound  from  the 
other.  The  calves  were  not  out  of  the  stable,  and  while 
waiting  I  measured  the  Elk  horns  given  me  by  Mr. 
Picotte.  They  are  as  follows :  length,  4  feet  6\  inches ; 
breadth  27  to  27J  inches;  circumference  at  the  skull  16 
inches,  round  the  knob  12  inches;  between  the  knobs  3 
inches.  This  animal,  one  of  the  largest  ever  seen  in  this 
country,  was  killed  in  November  last.  From  seventeen 
to  twenty-one  poles  are  necessary  to  put  up  a  lodge,  and 
the  poles  when  the  lodge  is  up  are  six  or  seven  feet  above 
the  top.  The  holes  at  the  bottom,  all  round,  suffice  to  in- 
dicate the  number  of  these  wanted  to  tighten  the  lodge. 
In  time  Sprague  made  several  outline  sketches  of  calves, 
and  I  drew  what  I  wished.  We  had  breakfast  very  early, 
and  I  ate  some  good  bread  and  fresh  butter.  Mr.  Picotte 
presented  me  with  two  pipe-stems  this  morning,  quite 
short,  but  handsome.  At  eleven  we  were  on  our  way, 
and  having  crossed  the  river,  came  alongside  of  the 
"Trapper,"  of  which  Mr.  John  Durack  takes  the  command 
to  St.  Louis.  The  name  of  our  own  captain  is  Joseph  A. 
Sire.  Mr.  Picotte  gave  me  a  letter  for  Fort  Union,  as  Mr. 
Culbertson  will  not  be  there  when  we  arrive.      One  of 


m 


528 


AUDUBON 


Captain  Sire's  daughters  and  her  husband  are  going  up 
with  us.  She  soled  three  pairs  of  moccasins  for  me,  as 
skilfully  as  an  Indian.  Bell  and  Harris  shot  several  rare 
birds.  Mr.  Bowie  promised  to  save  for  me  all  the  curios- 
ities he  could  procure;  he  came  on  board  and  saw  the 
plates  of  quadrupeds,  and  I  gave  him  an  almanac,  which 
he  much  desired. 

After  we  had  all  returned  on  board,  I  was  soniCwhat 
surprised  that  Sprague  asked  me  to  let  him  return  with 
the  "Omega"  to  St.  Louis.  Of  course  I  told  him  that 
he  was  at  liberty  to  do  so,  though  it  will  keep  me  grind- 
ing about  double  as  much  as  I  expected.  Had  he  said  the 
same  at  New  York,  I  could  have  had  any  number  of  young 
and  good  artists,  who  would  have  leaped  for  joy  at  the 
very  idea  of  accompanying  such  an  expedition.  Never 
mind,  however. 

We  have  run  well  this  afternoon,  for  we  left  Fort  Pierre 
at  two  o'clock,  and  we  are  now  more  than  twenty-five 
miles  above  it.  We  had  a  rascally  Indian  on  board,  who 
hid  himself  for  the  purpose  of  murdering  Mr.  Chardon; 
the  latter  gave  him  a  thrashing  last  year  for  thieving,  and 
Indians  never  forget  such  things  —  he  had  sworn  ven- 
geance, and  that  was  enough.  Mr.  Chardon  discovered 
him  below,  armed  with  a  knife;  he  talked  to  him  pretty 
freely,  and  then  came  up  to  ask  the  captain  to  put  the 
fellow  ashore.  This  request  was  granted,  and  he  and  his 
bundle  were  dropped  overboard,  where  the  water  was 
waist  deep;  the  fellow  scrambled  out,  and  we  heard,  after- 
ward, made  out  to  return  to  Fort  Pierre.  I  had  a  long 
talk  with  Sprague,  who  thought  I  was  displeased  with 
him  —  a  thing  that  never  came  into  my  head  —  and  in  all 
probability  he  will  remain  with  us.  Harris  shot  a  pair 
of  Arkansas  Flycatchers,  and  Squires  procured  several 
plants,  new  to  us  all.  Harris  wrote  a  few  lines  to  Mr. 
Sarpy  at  St.  Louis,  and  I  have  had  the  pleasure  to  send 
the  Elk  horns,  and  the  great  balls  from  the  stomachs  of 


THE  MISSOURI  RIVER  JOURNALS 


529 


Buffalo  given  me  by  our  good  captain.  I  am  extremely 
fatigued,  for  we  have  been  up  since  before  daylight. 
At  12  d clock  of  the  night.  I  have  got  up  to  scribble  this, 
which  it  is  not  strange  that  after  all  I  saw  this  day,  at 
tiiis  curious  place,  I  should  have  forgotten.  Mr.  Picotte 
took  me  to  the  storehouse  where  the  skins  procured  are 
kept,  and  showed  me  eight  or  ten  packages  of  White  Hare 
skins,  which  I  feel  assured  are  all  of  Townsend's  Hare 
of  friend  Bachman,  as  no  other  species  are  to  be  met  with 
in  this  neighborhood  during  the  v/inter  months,  when 
these  animals  migrate  southward,  both  in  search  of  food 
and  of  a  milder  climate. 

June.  2,  Friday.  We  made  an  extremely  early  start 
about  three  a.  m.  The  morning  was  beautiful  and  calm. 
We  passed  Cheyenne  River  at  half-past  seven,  and  took 
wood  few  miles  above  it.  Saw  two  White  Pelicans, 
shot  a  few  birds.  My  hunter,  Alexis  Bombarde,  whom 
I  have  engaged,  could  not  go  shooting  last  night  on  ac- 
count of  the  crossing  of  this  river,  the  Cheyenne,  which 
is  quite  a  large  stream.  Mr.  Chardon  gave  me  full  con- 
trol of  Alexis,  till  we  reach  the  Yellowstone.  He  is  a 
first-rate  hunter,  and  powerfully  built;  he  wears  his  hair 
long  about  his  head  and  shoulders,  as  I  was  wont  to  do; 
but  being  a  half-breed,  his  does  not  curi  as  mine  did. 
Whilst  we  are  engaged  cutting  wood  again,  many  of  the 
men  have  gone  after  a  Buffalo,  shot  from  the  boat.  We 
have  seen  more  Wolves  this  day  than  ever  previously. 
We  saw  where  carcasses  of  Buffaloes  had  been  quite  de- 
voured by  these  animals,  and  the  diversity  of  their  colors 
and  of  their  size  is  more  wonderful  than  all  that  can  be 
said  of  them.  Alexis  Bombarde,  whom  hereafter  I  shall 
simply  call  Alexis,  says  that  with  a  small-bored  rifle 
common  size,  good  shot  will  kill  any  Wolf  at  sixty  or 
eighty  yards'  distance,  as  well  as  bullets.  We  passed  one 
Wolf  that,  crossing  our  bows,  went  under  the  wheel  and 
yet  escaped,  though  several  shots  were  fired  at  it.     I  had 

VOL.   L  — 34 


530 


AUDUBON 


m 


M:  :1 


i':  ■  tJ 


u:-ti 


a  specimen  of  Arvicola  pennsylvaniciis^  brought  to  me,  and 
I  was  glad  to  find  this  species  so  very  far  from  New  York. 
These  animals  in  confinement  eat  each  other  up,  the 
strongest  one  remaining,  often  maimed  and  covered  with 
blood.  This  I  have  seen,  and  I  was  glad  to  have  it  cor- 
roborated by  Bell,  We  are  told  the  Buffalo  cows  are 
generally  best  to  eat  in  the  month  of  July;  the  young 
bulls  are,  however,  tough  at  this  season.  Our  men  have 
just  returned  with  the  whole  of  the  Buffalo  except  its 
head;  it  is  a  young  bull,  and  may  prove  good.  When 
they  reached  it,  it  was  standing,  and  Alexis  shot  at  it 
twice,  to  despatch  it  as  soon  as  possible.  It  was  skinned 
and  cut  up  in  a  very  few  minutes,  and  the  whole  of  the 
flesh  was  brought  on  board.  I  am  now  astonished  at  the 
poverty  of  the  bluffs  which  we  pass;  no  more  of  the  beau- 
tiful limestone  formations  that  we  saw  below.  Instead  of 
those,  we  now  run  along  banks  of  poor  and  crumbling 
clay,  dry  and  hard  now,  but  after  a  rain  soft  and  soapy. 
Most  of  the  cedars  in  the  ravines,  formerly  fine  and 
thrifty,  are  now,  generally  speaking,  dead  and  dried  up. 
Whether  this  may  be  the  effect  of  the  transitions  of  the 
weather  or  not,  I  cannot  pretend  to  assert.  We  have 
seen  more  Wolves  to-day  than  on  any  previous  occasions. 
We  have  made  a  good  day's  work  of  it  also,  for  I  dare  say 
that  when  we  stop  for  the  night,  we  shall  have  travelled 
sixty  miles.  The  water  is  rising  somewhat,  but  not  to 
hurt  our  progress.  We  have  seen  young  Gadwall  Ducks, 
and  a  pair  of  Geese  that  had  young  ones  swimming  out 
of  our  sight. 

June  3,  Saturday.  Alexis  went  off  last  night  at  eleven 
o'clock,  walked  about  fifteen  miles,  and  returned  at  ten 
this  morning;   he  brought  three  Prairie  Dogs,  or,  as  I 


^  Wilson's  Meadow  Mouse.  This  is  the  name  used  by  Aud.  and  Bach, 
Quad.  N.  Am.  i.,  1849,  p.  341,  pi.  45,  for  the  Arvicola  riparius  of  Ord,  now 
known  as  Microtus  riparius.  But  the  specimen  brought  to  Audubon  can 
only  be  very  doubtfully  referred  to  this  species.  —  E.  C. 


THE  MISSOURI  RIVER  JOURNALS 


531 


'  brought  to  me,  and 
far  from  New  York, 
each  other  up,  the 
;d  and  covered  with 
glad  to  have  it  cor- 
le  Buffalo  cows  are 
3f  July;  the  young 
on.  Our  men  have 
I  Buffalo  except  its 
prove  good.  When 
id  Alexis  shot  at  it 
ble.  It  was  skinned 
nd  the  whole  of  the 
ow  astonished  at  the 
no  more  of  the  beau- 
V  below.  Instead  of 
poor  and  crumbling 
rain  soft  and  soapy, 
,,  formerly  fine   and 

dead  and  dried  up, 
lie  transitions  of  the 
0  assert.  We  have 
y  previous  occasions, 
:t  also,  for  I  dare  say 

shall  have  travelled 
3mewhat,  but  not  to 

ung  Gadwall  Ducks, 

ones  swimming  out 

f  last  night  at  eleven 
and  returned  at  ten 
airie  Dogs,  or,  as  I 

le  used  by  Aud.  and  Bach, 
kola  riparius  of  Ord,  now 
brought  to  Audubon  can 
I- E.G. 


call  them,  Prairie  Marmots.  The  wind  blew  violently 
till  we  had  run  several  miles;  at  one  period  we  were 
near  stopping.  We  have  had  many  difficulties  with 
the  sand-bars,  having  six  or  seven  times  taken  the 
wrong  channel,  and  then  having  to  drop  back  and  try  our 
luck  again.  The  three  Marmots  had  been  killed  with  shot 
quite  too  large,  and  not  one  of  them  was  fit  for  draw- 
ing, or  even  skinning.  Sprague  and  I  have  taken  meas- 
urements of  all  their  parts,  which  I  give  at  once.  [Here 
follow  forty-two  measurements,  all  external,  of  the  male  and 
female.]  I  received  no  further  intelligence  about  the 
habits  of  this  species,  except  that  they  are  quite  numer- 
ous in  every  direction.  We  passed  four  rivers  to-day;  the 
Little  Chayenne,^  the  Moroe,  the  Grand,  and  the  Ram- 
part. The  Moroe  is  a  handsome  stream  and,  I  am  told, 
has  been  formerly  a  good  one  for  Beaver.  It  is  navigable 
for  barges  for  a  considerable  distance.  Just  before  dinner 
we  stopped  to  cut  drift-wood  on  a  sand-bar,  and  a  Wolf  was 
seen  upon  it.  Bell,  Harris,  and  some  one  else  went  after 
it.  The  wily  rascal  cut  across  the  bar  and,  hiding  itself 
under  the  bank,  ran  round  the  point,  and  again  stopped. 
But  Bell  had  returned  towards  the  very  spot,  and  the  fel- 
low was  seen  swimming  off,  when  Bell  pulled  the  trigger 
and  shot  it  dead,  in  or  near  the  head.  The  captain  sent 
the  yawl  after  it,  and  it  was  brought  on  board.  It  was 
tied  round  the  neck  and  dipped  in  the  river  to  wash  it. 
It  smelled  very  strong,  but  I  was  heartily  glad  to  have  it 
in  my  power  to  examine  it  closely,  and  to  be  enabled  to 
take  very  many  measurements  of  this  the  first  Wolf  we 
have  actually  procured.  It  was  a  male,  but  rather  poor; 
its  general  color  a  grayish  yellow;  its  measurements  are 

1  This  is  spelt  thus  in  the  Journal,  and  also  on  Tanner's  map  of  1829: 
see  also  Lewis  and  Clark,  ed.  of  1S93,  p.  152.  The  "  Moroe"  River  of  the 
above  text  is  present  Moreau  River,  falling  into  the  Missouri  from  the 
west  in  Dewey  Co.,  S.  Dak.  Grand  River  was  also  known  by  its  Arikara 
name,  Weterhoo,  or  Wetarhoo.  Rampart  River  is  about  two  miles  above 
Grand  River;  it  was  also  called  Maropa  River. — E.G. 


I 


532 


AUDUBON 


as  follows  \omittci(\.  Wc  saw  one  Goose  with  a  gosling, 
several  Coots,  Grebes,  Blue  Herons,  Doves,  Magpies,  Red- 
shafted  Woodpeckers,  etc.  On  a  sand-bar  Bell  counted 
ten  Wolves  feeding  on  some  carcass.  We  also  saw  three 
young  whelps.  This  morning  we  saw  a  large  number  of 
Black-headed  Gulls  feeding  on  a  dead  Buffalo  with  some 
Ravens;  the  Gulls  probably  were  feeding  on  the  worms, 
or  other  insects  about  the  carcass.  We  saw  four  Elks, 
and  a  large  gang  of  Buffaloes.  One  Wolf  was  .seen  cross- 
ing the  river  towards  our  boat;  being  fired  at,  it  wheeled 
round,  but  turned  towards  us  again,  again  wheeled  round, 
and  returned  to  where  it  had  started.  We  ran  this  even- 
ing till  our  wood  was  exhausted,  and  I  do  not  know  how 
we  will  manage  to-morrow.  Good-night.  God  bless 
you  all.  ,  . 


INDIAN   HATCHET-PIPE. 
Carried  by  Audubon  during  many  of  his  Journeys. 


Dose  with  a  gosling, 
oves,  Magpies,  Red- 
id-bar  Bell  counted 

We  also  saw  three 
V  a  large  number  of 

Buffalo  with  some 
ling  on  the  worms, 
We  saw  four  Elks, 
/olf  was  seen  cross- 
fired  at,  it  wheeled 
;ain  wheeled  round, 

We  ran  this  even- 
I  do  not  know  how 
light.      God    bless 


neys. 


